Download Marine derived ingredients for personal care

MARINE INGREDIENTS
Barbara Broakway – IMCD, UK
Marine derived ingredients
for personal care
The oceans and seas are a great place to
find natural actives and functional materials
for personal care products. They are the
last great untapped resource. Despite
covering more than 70% of the Earth’s
surface, only a tiny proportion of their full
potential is being used in personal care.1
We are familiar with using marine
materials. We use everything from seawater
to a huge range of extracts made from
seaweed, microalgae, plankton, coral and
many other marine organisms in personal
care, but this is just the tip of the potential
‘commercial iceberg’. Formulations can
be readily thickened or gelled with
carrageenan, alginates (cold-soluble and
cold-setting), agar or agarose, (all extracted
from seaweed). Even the sand, mud and
silt that settle on the ocean floor can have
a place in cosmetics. The most exciting
new materials come from the very deep
sea and the water below 1,500 metres
remains largely unexplored. This is the
largest habitat on Earth (covering more
than 60% of our planet). The cliché that
‘more people have travelled into space
than have travelled to the deep ocean’
may have become a little overused but
it does help get into perspective the
remoteness of Earth’s ‘flooded basement’,
the abyssal zone (see Fig. 1).2
firsthand experience of seawater helping
their cuts to heal. The high sodium chloride
content of seawater makes it difficult to use
in formulas, so Soliance in France supply
marine water which has suitably adjusted
levels of salts, to help formulators get
around the difficulties of using untreated
salt water in formulas. This spring seawater
has been clinically tested and shown to
improve dry and damaged skin.5 Sea salt
and salt from the Dead Sea are especially
popular for anhydrous salt scrubs. Soaking
in Dead Sea salts has been reported to
help sufferers of rheumatoid arthritis,
psoriatic arthritis, and osteoarthritis.
The minerals are absorbed while soaking,
stimulating blood circulation.6 Skin disorders
such as acne and psoriasis benefit from
regular soaking in reconstituted Dead Sea
salt. The National Psoriasis Foundation
recommends Dead Sea and Dead Sea
salts as effective treatments for psoriasis.
The high concentration of bromide and
magnesium in the Dead Sea salt can
relieve allergic reactions. One efficacy study
showed bathing in the Dead Sea salt
solution significantly improved skin barrier
function compared with the tap watertreated control forearms. Another study
saw a 40% reduction in the depth of
wrinkles when skin was treated with
reconstituted Dead Sea salts.7
Seawater and sea salt
The most obvious marine ingredient
is seawater. Thalassotherapy
High tide
(seawater therapy), has been used
Low tide
Sea level
since Roman times.3 Unsurprisingly,
Estuarine
as terrestrial life originated in the
seas, seawater contains an
Continental shelf
abundance of minerals essential
for healthy skin. Naturally occurring
Coastal
minerals found in the sea include
phosphorus, magnesium, zinc, iron,
manganese, chromium, selenium,
iodine and potassium and all have
known skin benefits.4 There is a
long safe history of traditional
seawater therapies being used
to treat common skin complaints.
As more than half the world’s
population live within 100 km of
the coast, many people have
The major life zones in an ocean.
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P E R S O N A L C A R E April 2012
Euphotic
Bathyal
Abyssal
The estaurine and
euphotic zone
Abrasive sands of all grades and colours
can be obtained for personal care use and
are wonderful for treating hard skin on feet
and elbows. Active Concepts can supply
ABS Sea Silt Extract, which is water
extracted marine silt (Maris limus).
Micromarine life
A glass of seawater contains millions of
bacterial cells, hundreds of thousands of
phytoplankton and tens of thousands of
zooplankton. New marine ‘microlife’ is being
discovered all the time. Unipex Innovations
has worked with French Polynesian experts
and collected Kopara from Moorea Island,
also called the Magical Island, found
among the volcanic islands and atolls
located in the eastern South Pacific.
Kopara is a unique ecosystem made up
of communities of microorganisms that
produce exopolysaccharide as protective
shields. The polysaccharide enables them
to survive being dried out and sun damaged
at low tides.8 Scientists at Unipex
Innovations have worked with isolates from
Kopara and using various biotechnological
techniques; and now produce locally three
interesting exopolysaccharide actives
(Exo H, Exo T and Exo P). Exo H (H for
hydrating) has been shown to induce skin
to produce hyaluronic acid, filaggrin
and skin barrier lipids. It is
therefore recommended for dry
Sun
skin and general skin improvement.
Exo T (T for skin texture) triggers
Open sea
desquamation more effectively than
retinoic acid. It is a potent inducer
of differentiation markers. It protects
the collagen network and so
improves skin texture. Exo P
chelates heavy metals on the skin
surface9 and so helps protect skin
against urban pollution and improves
dull skin for a healthy look.10
Microalgae
One class of marine microlife,
the microalgae, are of huge global
importance. Along with other
phytoplankton they capture vast
quantities of carbon dioxide from the
atmosphere and help counteract the effects
of carbon dioxide on global warming.11
They have also been heralded as the next
big thing in green power as micro algae,
such as Botryococcus braunii, will produce
triterpene oil comparable in hydrocarbon
content to petroleum. The cosmetic
industry is fortunate to have suppliers who
specialise in culturing strains of microalgae,
which contain actives with proven cosmetic
benefits. For example, Soliance in their
Brittany laboratories culture Phaeodactylum
tricornutum, which is typically found
in Mediterranean coastal waters.
Their Phaeodactylum tricornutum extract
(Depollutine) has been shown to prevent
ICAMs release from keratinocytes, so it is a
useful active for stressed skin. Hence their
trade name, Depollutine, which suggests
its usefulness in products designed for
people who live in cities and more polluted
atmospheres. It is however very useful for
all of us who live stressful lives.
Skeletonema costatum is another coastal
water microalgae that is being cultured in
Brittany. It has a unique composition and
is especially rich in essential amino acids.
Skeletonema costatum extracts (Grevilline
and Costalene) inhibit two key mediators to
limit inflammation and reduce erythema.12
They also encourage strong intercellular
junctions and are sources of beneficial
omega-3 oils.16 Skeletonema costatum
extract has been recommended for products
designed to counteract the painful effects
of sunburn and anti-ageing.
Microalgae can also help moisturising
the skin. Porphyridium cruentum extract
(Porphyraline) is made from cultured red
micro algae. It contains moisturising
polysaccharides similar to human GAG,
which create a protective coating.
In nature, part of the polysaccharide
dissolves in seawater and increases the
local viscosity to protect the microalgae.
Porphyridium cruentum is cultured in
marine spring water, which is rich in
various essential minerals.13
Phaeodactylum tricornutum, monocellular micro-algae, belonging to the
Diatomophyceae is widely found in coastal
waters of the Mediterranean, Brittany, Baltic
and Caribbean. Phaeodactylum tricornutum
extract (Megassine) has been shown to
contain a specific poly unsaturated fatty
acid as well as being a powerful
antioxidant.14 It therefore has anti-ageing
properties and its proteins are recognised
as major targets for oxidative damage, like
DNA and lipids. Chronological ageing and
photo-ageing are mediated by depleted
antioxidant enzyme expression leading to
accumulation of harmful oxidised proteins
and cellular dysfunction.5 Phaeodactylum
tricornutum increases proteasome activity,
www.en.wikipedia.org Dozens
MARINE INGREDIENTS
make soft beads, which look especially
attractive in toiletries. These beads have
more practical uses in other industries. For
example they are used in biotechnology as
tiny bioreactors. A bead can be easily made
to contain living cells or enzymes by simply
letting drops of alginate solution (containing
cells or enzymes) fall into a solution of
cross-linking calcium salts. These resulting
beads are robust and have large surface
areas, which makes them perfect supports
for bioreactions. They can be easily swirled
around a fluid filled fermenter tank and
once a process is over, it is easy to drain
away the media and recover the beads.
Fermenting seaweeds
Fermentation is an all natural process that
can be used to create special ‘new’ natural
Ascophyllum nodosum.
materials just as grape juice can be
which are responsible for the removal of
transformed into wine or vinegar. One of
damaging protein oxidation products and
the industry’s most prestigious products,
help maintain protein turnover. This is
Crème De La Mer, claims to owe its efficacy
especially important when skin is subjected to a highly potent fermented ‘Miracle Broth’
to high UV irradiation.15
and its transformed ingredients - sea kelp,
calcium, magnesium, potassium, iron,
Seaweed
lecithin, vitamins C, E and B12, plus citrus,
eucalyptus, wheat germ, alfalfa and
Extracts made from the many different
sunflower oils. The process can take
types of seaweed and simpler algae are
3-4 months to complete, but fermented
also readily available as effective actives.
seaweed still retains much of its polymer
Active Concepts SRL supply ABS Alg moist
structure so gives ‘slip’, ‘body’, and acts
Eau, which is a popular moisturising
seaweed extract. Wakamine from Soliance, as an excellent moisturiser. Fermentation
improves bioavailability and by removing
is a brown seaweed extract (Undaria
less active, fermentable elements, brings
pinnatifida). This golden-brown kelp from
out actives, for example kelp has natural
the Laminaria family grows in fairly
anti-microbial properties. The ‘fermenting
protected waters such as bays and
harbours. It is widely used in Japan where it microbes’ may synthesise essential fatty
acids and vitamins so that the whole
is traditionally added to miso soup (under
process can be thought of as ‘enriching’ a
the ‘Wakame’ name) and in China (as
‘Qundai-cai’).5 Small producers of seaweeds well-known marine active. Companies such
as Active Concepts LLC offer a range of
such as Roaring Water Bay Seaweed
Cooperative Society and Cleggan Seaweeds fermented products including seaweed.
in Ireland can be found throughout the
Sponges and coral
world. Their main products tend to be
The greatest success stories for marine
gelling agents such as carrageenan,
actives in the pharmaceutical industry
alginates, agar or agarose, all of which are
come from the shallower regions of the
extracted from seaweed. These polymers
sea. The most profitable marine-derived
have been used for thousands of years in
drugs include the anti-viral acyclovir and its
foods because they are very safe and
excellent at controlling rheology and adding relative zidothymidine (AZT), which is used
richness and ‘body’ to all types of formulas. to delay development of AIDS, along with
They are also useful polymers for improving the anti-cancer drug, Ara-C. These drugs
owe their existence to materials originally
stability, especially to help formulas survive
freeze-thawing. Interestingly, they can give isolated from marine sponges. In the
personal care industry, an extract made
creams and lotions an attractive shine to
their outer surfaces. These marine polymers from Caribbean sea whip (soft coral)
Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae has been
are excellent moisturisers. They can also
the active ingredient in a few skin care
be the backbone of face masks. FMC
products for a number of years. The
Biopolymers has an alginate powder blend
commercially available cosmetic grade
(Protanal FM 6130) that combines, at the
extract is a partially purified extract of
optimum ratios, diatomaceous earth with
alginates and calcium salts to make a quick Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae that
contains pseudopterosins (diterpenesetting face mask base. This base can be
pentoseglycosides), which modify the
used to carry a variety of anhydrous active
inflammatory arachidonic acid cascade and
ingredients. Alginates are also used to
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are effective anti-inflammatory agents.
Some marine organisms simply float
on or spend much of their adult lives just
below the surface of the water. If you have
ever allowed yourself to slowly float on an
air bed or spent a day snorkelling, you will
know how hostile this region of the sea
can be on a hot summer’s day. Left
unprotected, human skin soon becomes
inflamed and sun burnt. How do these
organisms survive such hostile conditions?
Hymeniacidon heliophila also known as
the sun sponge is one such organism. It
inhabits the inter-tidal waters off the coast
of North Carolina. Hymeniacidon heliophila
cells are rich in 5-hydoxytryptophan.
This molecule has been shown to protect
cells from UV damage. Interestingly,
5-hydoxytryptophan can be converted into
serotonin in skin (a molecule associated
with euphoria). It also, like caffeine, is a
vasoconstrictor so, if it is applied to the
skin near conspicuous veins, they will
soon get smaller and appear less obvious.
Extracts of Hymeniacidon heliophila have
been shown by the scientists at Active
Concepts LLC, to increase collagen
synthesis by fibroblasts and to act as
an antioxidant. The extract can therefore
be useful for a number of cosmetics
applications. The sun sponge extract would
be useful therefore for anti-ageing products
as well as for products designed to rapidly
reduce the appearance of spider veins and
dark areas under the eyes or perhaps
better still, in sun care products.
Jellyfish
The 2010 BSB Innovations Award went to
Oceanbasis for their jellyfish extract, with
2% marine collagen; it is an excellent
moisturiser and forms a protective film
on skin.
Crustacea
One major marine by-product is chitin. It is
the main structural component of the shells
of crustaceans. Chitin is difficult to dissolve
so products usually use chitosan. Chitosan
was first made in 1959, by Rouget who
heated chitin with concentrated sodium
hydroxide, which removed some of the
acetyl groups from the molecular chain,
leaving behind complete amino groups.
By increasing the temperature or the
strength of the sodium hydroxide solution,
more acetyl groups could be removed.
In this way, a range of chitosan molecules
with different properties and applications
have been made. Unlike chitin, chitosan
dissolves easily organic acids and is a
useful cationic polymer. It is sold under
trade names such as Marine Biopolymer
(MBP) at different grades for use in skin
and hair care. Typical grades are as follows:
Very High Viscosity, 75%-85% degree of
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MARINE INGREDIENTS
Comb jellyfish.
acetylation, High Viscosity, 80%-90%
degree of acetylation, Medium Viscosity,
>80% degree of acetylation. It is used for
its antimicrobial products especially in acne
and antidandruff products. It will enhance
the viscosity of various formulations. This
natural polymer is a good film-former that is
also moisturising. Its positive charge allows
it to interact easily with biological surfaces
such as skin and hair. It is effective in both
cationic and non-ionic emulsions. Chitosan
will help with hair curl retention. It leaves
hair soft, silky and shiny hair and is good
for controlling static and dry combing.9
with weakened immune systems (those
ironically, that need it the most) so as,
cold water fish oils are excellent sources
of both EPA and DHA, which can be used
directly, it makes good sense to use fish
oils. EPA is converted in tissue to series 3
prostaglandins, which regulate, among
other things, inflammatory responses
(skin and joint) and immune function,
arterial muscle tone, which involves blood
pressure regulation. The series 1 and 2
prostaglandins have the exact opposite
effect on the body as the series 3.
They stimulate inflammation, constrict the
arteries and inhibit immune response.
That is why a properly balanced ratio of
omega-3 (LNA, EPA and DHA) to omega-6
(linoleic acid: LA) is so critical for good
health. There is mounting evidence that
the lack of omega-3 oils and the excessive
amount of omega-6 in the modern western
diet lead to degenerative conditions.
Sustainable management
Care is taken by suppliers to use marine
materials from certified sources by
recognised regional organisations. Using
coral and soft coral has raised concerns in
the industry as it is so easy to damage the
marine ecology. Ten thousand pounds of
Pseudopterogorgia elisabethae have been
harvested from the coast of the Bahamas
but researchers expect that this population
will recover as Pseudopterogorgia
elisabethae re-grows rapidly.
With potent active materials that need
Fish
only be collected from the sea in small
Fish are rarely caught to make cosmetic
amounts, suppliers always look for ways
ingredients. Fish elastin and collagen (and
of culturing organisms rather than wild
their hydrolysates) are made as by-products harvesting. Where materials must be
of the huge fishing industry. These materials harvested in tonne quantities, it is agreed
are extracted from the waste skin and
that carrying out sustainable management
bones. Care is taken by suppliers to only
is paramount. FMC BioPolymers is one
use fish waste from sources certified by
company that harvests tonnes of brown
recognised regional fisheries management
seaweed from both warm and cold waters
organisation or other organisations
around the world and in return provides
dedicated to the sustainable management
economic development in coastal areas.
of fisheries. Unipex Innovations’ MDI
They know sound stewardship is essential
complex is a very effective MMP inhibitor
for maintaining an enduring supply.
and perfect for firming, addressing dark
They promote sustainable and regulated
circles and general skin wellbeing and
seaweed harvests. For example, FMC
anti-ageing. This glycoaminoglycan is a
BioPolymers’ Norwegian fleet of trawlers
by-product of essential shark ‘culling’ that
harvests the alginate that grows in great
takes place of the coast of Canada.9
abundance under the icy coastal waters.
Fish oils include squalane (often from
They adhere to a prescribed sustainable
shark liver) and the much-needed poly
management scheme working with the full
unsaturated fatty acids. Remember, alphacooperation of the Norwegian government.
linoleic acid (LNA) is plant-derived therefore The seaweed grows to maturity in five-year
a botanical oil, which our bodies then
cycles. The beds of brown seaweed off
convert into eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA)
Norway’s coast are divided into more than
and docohexaenoic acid (DHA) in order
400 fields. The crop is carefully harvested
for it to carry out the essential functions.
by field, to allow re-growth and specially
The body requires approximately ten LNA
designed rakes pull mature plants off the
molecules to produce one EPA molecule.
ocean floor while leaving young plants to
This conversion can be difficult or
repopulate the area. Similar managed
impossible for some older people or those
harvests take place in Iceland, Morocco
MARINE INGREDIENTS
and off the coast of Canada. A different
method is used in Australia, where
seaweed is gathered as it washes ashore
after a storm. In places like the Philippines,
Indonesia, Tanzania and Madagascar,
carageenophytes are cultivated and
harvested in warm, shallow waters,
giving employment to local communities
who profit from this reliable cash crop.
The approximately 230,000 known
marine plant and animal species living
in these upper regions of our seas, just
10% of our planet (mostly estuarine and
euphotic zone), provide us each year with
approximately 100 million tonnes of raw
materials (most of which finds its way into
food and then some into personal care).
How much more is waiting for us?
This is providential as many of the
organisms who have adapted to these
extreme conditions may not be able to
survive at lower atmospheric pressures.
Deepsane is now produced in amounts
suitable for use in the personal care
industry. It is known to be a large molecule
made up of repeating units of eleven
glycosidic residues. It contains glucose,
galactose, rhamnose, fucose and mannose
along with glucuronic and galacturonic
acids. Deepsane is also characterised by an
unusual sugar, a diacidic hexose identified
as a 3-0-(1 carboxyethyl)-D-glucuronic acid.
The strain of Alteromonas macleodii,
cultured for Deepsane was ‘harvested’ from
the deepest oceans, situated at 13˚ North,
near the Mexican coast. Scientists at
IFREMER cultured the strain and first
isolated Deepsane. They believe that
Deepsane may be a key component of
the filamentous microbial mat that forms
around the deep-sea hydrothermal
chimneys. These microbial mats are
necessary to securely-anchored colonies so
they can develop and thrive in the turbulent
waters. They also help shield the microbes
from the high concentrations of toxic
substances, such as heavy metals, which
are continually being spued out of the
hydrothermal vents.
Clinical studies have shown that
Deepsane has cosmetic benefits.
It is a very effective anti-inflammatory.
It significantly reduces ICAM-1 expression
while also protecting langerhans cells,
which are essential players in the skin’s
immune system. In addition, aqueous
extracts containing Deepsane help repair
damaged skin through IL-1 regulation. The
studies indicate that Alteromonas ferment
extracts, (Unipex Innovation’s Abyssine)
which contains Deepsane, can help protect
and encourage skin repair so are ideal for
sensitive, reactive and damaged skin.9
Both the pharmaceutical and personal care
industries are driven by discovering new
materials and so it is not surprising that
already there are ingredients for personal
care derived from microbes that live at
these extreme depths. These few actives
are just the first phase of what may turn
out to be many phases of discoveries.
Today, exploration is limited by the few
submersibles capable of withstanding the
pressures and travelling down to the
abyssal plains and deep the ocean floor.
However, the images they have captured
have been used to make excellent
documentaries such as the BBC’s 2011
‘Deep Seabed’ in their ‘Blue Planet’
series. Many shorter videos taken by these
specialised craft show the unusual lifeforms that inhabit the deep ocean. They
are readily available over the internet so all
of us can now share the excitement of
seeing these new-to-science extremophiles
living their lives in, what for us would be
impossible conditions, from the comfort
of our more hospitable-to-us homes.
Universities and scientific establishments
such as the French Research Institute for
Exploitation of the Sea (IFREMER) and
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution in
Massachusetts have been studying the
organisms recovered from these extreme
depths. One special extracellular
polysaccharide (Deepsane) has been
isolated from cultured Alteromonas
macleodii. This gammaproteobacterium
strain normally lives in the sea at depths
between 1000 m and 3500 m. The strain
they have used is strictly aerobic, nonfermentative, non-luminescent, and nonpigmented. It is an encapsulated Gramnegative. Fortunately, this extremophile
will grow at atmospheric pressure when
its optimal growth conditions are between
30˚C-35˚C, pH 6.5-7.5 and the ionic
strength between 20 g/L-40 g/L NaCl.
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The deep sea –
the abyssal zone
Conclusion
There is no doubt that man does enjoy the
sights and sounds of the ocean. Paradise is
often portrayed as a desert island
surrounded by blue seas so it is especially
good to know that the oceans and seas are
a great place to find natural actives and
function materials for personal care
products. An abundance of new interesting
materials are keenly anticipated as the
PC
deep sea is more fully explored.
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