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Transcript
```Types of Ocean waves
Capillary wave
• capillary wave, small, free, surface-water
wave with such a short wavelength that its
restoring force is the water’s surface tension,
which causes the wave to have a rounded
crest and a V-shaped trough. The maximum
wavelength of a capillary wave is 1.73
centimetres (0.68 inch
Gravity waves
• longer waves are controlled by gravity and are
appropriately termed gravity waves. These are
the normal ocean waves we are used too.
Free wave
• Waves that run independent of their
generating force (such as impact waves) are
called free waves. Impact meaning hitting
things like the shore
Orbital wave
• The water molecules within deep water trace
a series of circles that extend below the
surface of the wave base. Note that an object
on the surface returns to the same position
with the passage of each wave. This occurs if
there is no current.
Wave train
• A succession of wave cycles moving at the
same speed and typically having the same
wavelength
Standing wave
• Perpetual waves which remain in one place;
may be caused by decelerating current when
fast water meets slower-moving water, or by
obstructions.
Forced waves
• waves that are dependent upon their
generating force for their continued existence
(such as the tides) are called forced waves.
Orbital wave
• This refers to the circular motion of the
particles underneath gravity waves
Transitional wave
• depth is between 1/2 and 1/20 the
wavelength.
• • Shallow water waves exists in water <1/20 of
the wavelength.
Shallow water waves
• Waves that occur in water less than 1/2 the
wavelength interact
• with the bottom and some of their
characteristics are altered
Gravity waves
• gravity waves are waves generated in a fluid
medium or at the interface between two
media (e.g., the atmosphere and the ocean)
which has the restoring force of gravity
Deep water waves
• In deep water the speed (or velocity) of a
water wave depends only on its wave length.
Specifically, the speed is proportional to the
square root of the wavelength. Thus, the
longer the wave length, the faster the wave,
or vice versa.
Deep water waves
• http://users.dickinson.edu/~richesod/waves/d
eep/deepapplet.html
Spilling Wave
• When a wave moves towards the shore the
circular form becomes elliptical. When waves
of long wave length and low height approach
a gently sloping beach, the ellipse becomes
horizontal. When the waves break, the swash
sweeps up the beach as a sheet of water often
reaching the upper beach. Most of the swash
soaks into the beach which means that there
is very little backwash. Waves of this type are
called constructive or spilling waves.
```