A mechanical wave is created when a source of energy causes a

... A mechanical wave is a disturbance in matter that carries energy from one place to another. ...

... A mechanical wave is a disturbance in matter that carries energy from one place to another. ...

Ocean Movements

... Objectives Identify parts of a wave Explain the process that causes waves to break Describe different ocean currents ...

... Objectives Identify parts of a wave Explain the process that causes waves to break Describe different ocean currents ...

Spectra of nonlinear unidirectional sea waves

... of strips may be clearly seen; they are well-separated on the (k, ω) plane. The main spectral strip, which corresponds √ to free waves, is spread along the linear dispersion curve ω = Ω(k), Ω(k) = kg tanh kh, g is the gravity acceleration. Other spectral strips correspond to bound waves. Multiple ha ...

... of strips may be clearly seen; they are well-separated on the (k, ω) plane. The main spectral strip, which corresponds √ to free waves, is spread along the linear dispersion curve ω = Ω(k), Ω(k) = kg tanh kh, g is the gravity acceleration. Other spectral strips correspond to bound waves. Multiple ha ...

Study Guide: Ch 16 - Dynamic Ocean

... 1. The energy that drives surface ocean currents comes from ____. 2. Which force is involved in the development of surface currents? 3. Are ocean currents that move toward the poles warm or cold? 4. What effect causes surface ocean currents to be deflected? 5. The rising of cold water from deeper la ...

... 1. The energy that drives surface ocean currents comes from ____. 2. Which force is involved in the development of surface currents? 3. Are ocean currents that move toward the poles warm or cold? 4. What effect causes surface ocean currents to be deflected? 5. The rising of cold water from deeper la ...

Ocean Waves

... They swing forward and down with the energy of the wave, then back up to their original position Winds affects the water at the surface more than it affects the deep water Below a certain depth, the water does not move at all ...

... They swing forward and down with the energy of the wave, then back up to their original position Winds affects the water at the surface more than it affects the deep water Below a certain depth, the water does not move at all ...

2009-10

... 4. Can a room be cooled by leaving the door of a refrigerator open?. 5. The distance traveled by a body is directly proportional to time. Is any external force acting on it? 6. A bob of mass 0.1 kg hung from the ceiling of a room by a string 2m long is set into oscillation. The speed of the bob at i ...

... 4. Can a room be cooled by leaving the door of a refrigerator open?. 5. The distance traveled by a body is directly proportional to time. Is any external force acting on it? 6. A bob of mass 0.1 kg hung from the ceiling of a room by a string 2m long is set into oscillation. The speed of the bob at i ...

UCCS PES/ENSC2500 Chapter 12 Wave Energy name: ______________________________

... In deep-water, tsunamis have a relatively small height (typically 2 m) and a very long period (typically 30 minutes). The amplitude becomes larger as they pile up when they reach shallow water. For a tsunami in deep water, calculate the energy per meter of wave front (in J/m). Compare this with the ...

... In deep-water, tsunamis have a relatively small height (typically 2 m) and a very long period (typically 30 minutes). The amplitude becomes larger as they pile up when they reach shallow water. For a tsunami in deep water, calculate the energy per meter of wave front (in J/m). Compare this with the ...

13.42 Exam #1 Spring 2004 Open notes, book (1h 20mins) ρ

... d, and depth below the free surface, H, which is moored in deep water. The incident waves have wavelength much greater than the spar buoy diameter, thus no wave diffraction occurs at the structure. Monochromatic, incident waves propagate from left to right with frequency, ω = 1.2 rad/s. (see figure ...

... d, and depth below the free surface, H, which is moored in deep water. The incident waves have wavelength much greater than the spar buoy diameter, thus no wave diffraction occurs at the structure. Monochromatic, incident waves propagate from left to right with frequency, ω = 1.2 rad/s. (see figure ...

Types of Ocean waves

... wave with such a short wavelength that its restoring force is the water’s surface tension, which causes the wave to have a rounded crest and a V-shaped trough. The maximum wavelength of a capillary wave is 1.73 ...

... wave with such a short wavelength that its restoring force is the water’s surface tension, which causes the wave to have a rounded crest and a V-shaped trough. The maximum wavelength of a capillary wave is 1.73 ...

Sound - Garnet Valley School District

... Constructive interference • When two crests or troughs __________ • __________the amplitude of the wave ...

... Constructive interference • When two crests or troughs __________ • __________the amplitude of the wave ...

Measuring `rogue waves` in extreme sea conditions

... the Northwestern coast of Ireland. Prof. Dias, an applied mathematician working in Ireland, aims to produce finely-attuned sensors for a similar buoy specially designed to measure such 'rogue waves' in extreme sea conditions. During his previous ERC project he studied the fundamental mechanisms unde ...

... the Northwestern coast of Ireland. Prof. Dias, an applied mathematician working in Ireland, aims to produce finely-attuned sensors for a similar buoy specially designed to measure such 'rogue waves' in extreme sea conditions. During his previous ERC project he studied the fundamental mechanisms unde ...

Supplement

... values of the dispersive parameter, k0 h, less than the critical value 1.363. This investigation is aimed at showing that rogue waves can be generated by modulational instability in finite depth, namely when k0 h < 1.363. Before acceptance of the paper, I have important and minor comments that I wou ...

... values of the dispersive parameter, k0 h, less than the critical value 1.363. This investigation is aimed at showing that rogue waves can be generated by modulational instability in finite depth, namely when k0 h < 1.363. Before acceptance of the paper, I have important and minor comments that I wou ...

10-10 Viscosity

... •Internal friction of a fluid is called viscosity. •Grease is more viscous than oil which is more viscous than gasoline…different fluids posess an intrinsic viscosity indicated by their coefficient of viscosity (h) …or eta. See pg 295. •F= hA(v/l) A=area…v=velocity…l = length or linear location from ...

... •Internal friction of a fluid is called viscosity. •Grease is more viscous than oil which is more viscous than gasoline…different fluids posess an intrinsic viscosity indicated by their coefficient of viscosity (h) …or eta. See pg 295. •F= hA(v/l) A=area…v=velocity…l = length or linear location from ...

Gravity waves on water - UMD Physics

... linear and the force terms are independent of v. For small velocities you might therefore expect that the advective term is negligible, but what exactly does “small” mean? A velocity has dimensions LT −1 , so it is meaningless to say it is “small” in absolute terms. Only dimensionless numbers can be ...

... linear and the force terms are independent of v. For small velocities you might therefore expect that the advective term is negligible, but what exactly does “small” mean? A velocity has dimensions LT −1 , so it is meaningless to say it is “small” in absolute terms. Only dimensionless numbers can be ...

Wave Energy.doc

... The motion and response of a wave energy device may be described in terms of impedances with magnitude and phase that are subjected to excitation by composite and varying frequencies. The ratio of force to velocity defines a damping coefficient at each frequency. The force:displacement ratio at low ...

... The motion and response of a wave energy device may be described in terms of impedances with magnitude and phase that are subjected to excitation by composite and varying frequencies. The ratio of force to velocity defines a damping coefficient at each frequency. The force:displacement ratio at low ...

Problem Sheet 3

... Deduce that the time taken√for the flow to accelerate to a fraction (e2 − 1)/(e2 + 1) = 0.7616... of its limiting value is 2L/ 2gh. Verify that this time is roughly 3s for a garden hose L = 9m long supplied by a rainwater tank for which h = 1.8m. 2. A sphere is immersed in an infinite ocean of invis ...

... Deduce that the time taken√for the flow to accelerate to a fraction (e2 − 1)/(e2 + 1) = 0.7616... of its limiting value is 2L/ 2gh. Verify that this time is roughly 3s for a garden hose L = 9m long supplied by a rainwater tank for which h = 1.8m. 2. A sphere is immersed in an infinite ocean of invis ...

Fluids

... If the swirling is regular and repeatable, it is termed a vortex or an eddy The region in the BL where the orderly laminar layers start to mix together, but before they really start swirling, is called the transition region. The transition region is usually in a fairly small region. ...

... If the swirling is regular and repeatable, it is termed a vortex or an eddy The region in the BL where the orderly laminar layers start to mix together, but before they really start swirling, is called the transition region. The transition region is usually in a fairly small region. ...

D23Lc - damtp - University of Cambridge

... Revision of main ideas and results from IB Fluids Continuum hypothesis ...

... Revision of main ideas and results from IB Fluids Continuum hypothesis ...

Document

... • Because it rolls, it moves the ground up and down, and sideto-side in the same direction that the wave is moving. ...

... • Because it rolls, it moves the ground up and down, and sideto-side in the same direction that the wave is moving. ...

A shape optimization of a body located in the flows of solitary wave

... equations, we applied the finite element method based on the generalized acoustic velocity method and stabilized techniques such as stream-upwind/Petrov-Garelkin (SUPG) method and arbitrary Lagrange-Eulerian (ALE) method. By using the stabilized techniques, the accuracy of the computation is dramati ...

... equations, we applied the finite element method based on the generalized acoustic velocity method and stabilized techniques such as stream-upwind/Petrov-Garelkin (SUPG) method and arbitrary Lagrange-Eulerian (ALE) method. By using the stabilized techniques, the accuracy of the computation is dramati ...

MMV211, March 9, 2005 P1. The figure below shows a vane with a

... and outlet are equal, it follows from the Bernoulli equation along a streamline that the (absolute) fluid velocities at section 1 and 2 are equal as well, V2 = V1 = V − U. Mass flow rate, ṁ = ρA(V − U), i.e., ...

... and outlet are equal, it follows from the Bernoulli equation along a streamline that the (absolute) fluid velocities at section 1 and 2 are equal as well, V2 = V1 = V − U. Mass flow rate, ṁ = ρA(V − U), i.e., ...

What are waves? - the National Sea Grant Library

... Water waves are a manifestation of energy moving through the ocean. In their simplest form, waves are sinusoidal in shape. The high water levels are the wave crests and the low water levels are the wave troughs. The vertical distance between a crest and trough is the wave height H. The distance betw ...

... Water waves are a manifestation of energy moving through the ocean. In their simplest form, waves are sinusoidal in shape. The high water levels are the wave crests and the low water levels are the wave troughs. The vertical distance between a crest and trough is the wave height H. The distance betw ...

In fluid dynamics, Airy wave theory (often referred to as linear wave theory) gives a linearised description of the propagation of gravity waves on the surface of a homogeneous fluid layer. The theory assumes that the fluid layer has a uniform mean depth, and that the fluid flow is inviscid, incompressible and irrotational. This theory was first published, in correct form, by George Biddell Airy in the 19th century.Airy wave theory is often applied in ocean engineering and coastal engineering for the modelling of random sea states – giving a description of the wave kinematics and dynamics of high-enough accuracy for many purposes. Further, several second-order nonlinear properties of surface gravity waves, and their propagation, can be estimated from its results. Airy wave theory is also a good approximation for tsunami waves in the ocean, before they steepen near the coast.This linear theory is often used to get a quick and rough estimate of wave characteristics and their effects. This approximation is accurate for small ratios of the wave height to water depth (for waves in shallow water), and wave height to wavelength (for waves in deep water).