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July/August 2009 Vol. 5 No. 4 Woodford County Master Gardener Journal UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS EXTENSION MASTER GARDENER Master Gardener Demonstration Garden Summer is a great time to get out and visit gardens. One of our regional hidden treasures is the Master Gardener Demonstration Garden at Illinois Central College in East Peoria. This garden is the product and collected work of Peoria County, Tazewell County, and Woodford County Master Gardeners. Started in 2000, the garden is made up of numerous themed plantings (Contemplation Garden, Senses Garden, Bird Garden), variety demonstrations (heirloom vegetables, grasses, herbs, daylilies, perennials, annuals, roses, small fruits), and structures (raised beds, gazebo, several arches, variety of walkways). The garden is open from dawn to dusk every day. Master Gardeners are available to answer questions on most Tuesday and Thursday mornings, weather permitting. The garden is located behind the ICC Horticulture Land Lab, ¼ mile from the Route 24 entrance to the East Peoria Campus. Park in Lot G. Cynthia Baer Woodford County Extension Director From University of Illinois Extension and Master Gardeners of Woodford County, for Gardeners in West-Central Illinois Hellebores: Perfectly Behaved in the Shade Hellebores are particularly valued in gardens for their winter and early spring flowering period; the plants are surprisingly frostresistant and many are evergreen. The hellebores are native to much of Europe, with the greatest concentration of species occurring in the Balkans. The flowers have five “petals” (actually sepals) surrounding a ring of small, cup-like nectaries (petals modified to hold nectar). The sepals do not fall as petals would, but remain on the plant, sometimes for many months. The flowers of some species may resemble wild roses (the reason for their common names, such as “Christmas rose” and “Lenten rose”), but hellebores do not belong to the rose family. The so-called Christmas rose (H. niger), a traditional cottage garden favorite, bears its pure white flowers (which often age to pink) in the depths of winter; large-flowered cultivars are available, as are pink-flowered and double-flowered selections. The most popular hellebores for garden use, however, are undoubtedly H. orientalis and its colorful hybrids. They flower in early spring, around the period of Lent, and are often known as Lenten hellebores, oriental hellebores, or Lenten roses. They are excellent for bringing early color to shady herbaceous borders and areas between deciduous shrubs and under trees. Hybridizing (deliberate and acci= dental) between H. orientalis and several other closely-related species and subspecies has vastly improved the color-range of the flowers, which now extends from slate grey, near-black, deep purple and plum, through rich red and pinks to yellow, white and green. The outer surface of the sepals is often green-tinged, and as the flower ages, it usually becomes greener inside and out; individual flowers often remain on the plant for a month or more. The inner surface of each sepal may be marked with veins, or dotted or blotched with pink, red or purple. Recent breeding programs have also created double-flowered and anemone-centred plants. Double hellebores provide a very interesting variation to the standard hellebore. They are generally easy to maintain and share the same planting conditions as the standard hellebore. Semi-double flowers have one or two extra rows of petals; doubles have more. Basic Cultural Requirements Most hellebores are relatively care-free plants. As with many ornamental perennials, adequate soil preparation is the key to long term health and vigor. Though hellebores will grow in a great variety of soil conditions, a well-drained base containing plenty of organic matter suits them. Preparing deep beds will provide the extensive root systems plenty of growing room. Ideally, the soil should receive regular moisture without being waterlogged. However, the plants are surprisingly drought-tolerant once established and can survive in less than optimum conditions. They grow well among shrubs or under trees. Almost invariably hellebores are sold as shade plants. One of the benefits is that they will tolerate shady conditions, but are accepting of a variety of conditions. Best in partial shade, plants in deep shade will live but generally exhibit sparser growth and produce fewer blooms. Propagation Most hellebores divide fairly easily. Simply make sure to choose an established clump and dig up as much of the root-ball as possible. Hellebores have extensive root systems, often deeper than the height of the plant. Gently shaking or washing off the excess soil allows for better viewing. Though it is possible to divide at almost any time of the year in some climates, late spring and early fall generally provide the most opportune times for many gardeners. Dividing hellebores is the only simple way to produce more of a special plant. Careful hand pollination can result in many similar (or even superior) specimens, but seed-grown plants in many cases will differ significantly from the parent. Even with controlled conditions, plants grown from seed show amazing variation. Problems and Diseases In the main, hellebores are fairly trouble free. Aphids are sometimes a problem as are slugs and snails. As far as diseases go, two of the most ugly are ‘Black Spot’ and ‘Black Death’. Though more common in Europe, the latter is fatal to the plant. On old leaves it is normal to see browning and blackening of tissues as the individual leaves go through their natural life cycles; however, there are cases where blackening occurs in otherwise active and healthy tissue. Hellebores growing in well ventilated environments do not usually show any blackening on actively growing tissue. But, if you are concerned with the health of any plant, remove and destroy the plant. Excerpted from Wikipedia If you can’t beat it; eat it! Is it a worthless weed or a fabulous food for feasting? Purslane is cursed and curried all at the same time. For most of us it comes as an unwelcome dinner guest in our gardens and paths. With the many questions we receive about it, I thought it worth revisiting. Purslane, Portulaca oleracea, was introduced into the U.S. from southern Europe or northern Africa and has spread throughout the world as an edible plant and as a weed. Many cultures embrace purslane as a food. Purslane has succulent leaves and reddish stems with yellow flowers, similar to jade plants in appearance. The stems lay flat on the ground as they radiate from a single taproot sometimes forming large mats of leaves. It is closely related to Rose Moss, Portulaca grandiflora, grown as a “not so weedy” ornamental. Check out U of I's Midwestern Turfgrass Weed Identification website for some great pictures of purslane http://www. turf.uiuc.edu/weed_web/index.htm Purslane is an annual reproducing from seeds and from stem pieces. One plant can produce 240,000 seeds and the seeds can stay in the soil for 40 years. The plant also has enough food reserves in its stems and leaves for the seeds to continue to ripen even when the plant is pulled from the ground. You may find those facts either depressing or exciting. If you are trying to control purslane, the number one rule is: don’t let it flower. About three weeks after seedlings emerge; flowers and seeds will be produced. Also plants or plant pieces that are uprooted but not removed can reroot into the soil. I put them on top of a board to dry. Running a tiller through purslane is called “purslane propagation.” Do not till it. Tilling just brings more seeds to the surface to germinate. Purslane grows just about anywhere from fertile garden soil to the poorest arid soils. A rock driveway is nirvana to purslane. Its succulent characteristic makes it very drought tolerant. Purslane’s Achilles’ heel is its inability to grow in the shade. It doesn’t germinate well when seeds are more than ¼ inch deep. Mulching with grass or wood chips will help to control it. Purslane seeds germinate best with soil temperatures of 90º so mulching may again help to control it. It doesn't appear until June when preemergent herbicides may have lost their effectiveness. Post emergent herbicides such as glyphosate will kill existing weeds. Be sure to read and follow all label directions. Now if you are in the “if you can’t beat ’em then eat ’em” category, you won’t go hungry. There is plenty of purslane available and I’m sure your neighbors would love to share. If you are a connoisseur, you can also purchase purslane seeds for the upright cultivated forms for better flavor and easier harvesting. With purslane aficionados the preference is eating fresh young plants, and especially young leaves and tender stem tips. The taste is similar to watercress or spinach. Use purslane in salads or on sandwiches instead of lettuce or pickles. Next time order a ham and purslane on rye. Purslane can also be cooked as a potherb, steamed, stir-fried or pureed. It tends to get a bit slimy if overcooked. It can be substituted for spinach in many recipes. Before grazing in your yard be sure to wash purslane thoroughly and make sure it is free of any pesticides. As with any new food, don’t over indulge. Locally, Prairieland Community Supported Agriculture has some nice recipes using purslane on their web site.* Bon Appetit! http://www.prairienet.org/pcsa/recipes/ purslane.htm *URLs of sites not affiliated with University of Illinois Extension are provided solely for our clients’ convenience. Reference to specific external websites does not imply endorsement by University of Illinois Extension nor is discrimination intended against any omitted. Sandra Mason, Horticulture Educator University of Illinois Extension Disease Management in the Garden Growing healthy, disease-free vegetables and flowers must begin with proper watering, fertilizing, and weeding. Do this and you help maintain strong, healthy plants. Many of the disease organisms commonly found in home gardens survive the winter on infected plant debris and become active with the onset of warmer temperatures and spring rains. Most diseases are stimulated by rainfall throughout the growing season. To help minimize the severity of springtime disease, remove and destroy all plant debris at the end of the growing season. It is important to remove and destroy weeds both within and surrounding the garden since they too, can harbor disease organisms. Practice crop rotation. To slow the disease process during the growing season, water plants at ground level early in the day and provide adequate spacing between plants. To reduce the spread of disease, promptly remove and destroy infected leaves and plants, and avoid working in the garden when plants are wet. A variety of fungicides are available for disease control. If disease has been severe in the past, a fungicide application may help as a preventative treatment. Make sure to properly identify the disease before selecting, buying, or using a fungicide. Finally, use disease-free seeds or transplants and resistant varieties when planting the garden. Chad Behrendt, University of Minnesota University of Illinois Extension Common Problems for Vegetable Crops Though we would all like for our gardens to be lovely and perfect, nature doesn’t cooperate. So, the University of Illinois Extension has developed a web site to help you research the problems you run into in the garden. You can search by the vegetable or by the problem. A click on your problem, and you will be taken to another page with photos, a description and information about controlling the problem. http://urbanext.illinois.edu/ vegproblems/ Don’t Forget the Good Guys: Conserve Beneficial Insects Some bugs are on your side. They are the natural enemies of damaging insects and are known as beneficial insects. Releasing beneficial insects into your yard or garden may have some benefit, but your best bet is to conserve the beneficials already there. Keeping beneficial insects alive may help keep pest problems at an acceptable level so you can reduce insecticide use. Some common beneficials are: Green lacewings which eat aphids. Lady Beetles which go after aphids, scales and other soft-bodied insects and mites. Praying mantis which eats moving insects. Spiders which attack flying insects and caterpillars. Wasps which lay eggs on hornworms. Parasitic wasps attack all stages of insects. Syrphid (hover) flies which eat aphids. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) on plants are tiny controls for caterpillars. Beneficial nematodes in soil control larvae. An important way to conserve beneficials is to treat your yard and garden with insecticides only when pest populations are great enough to cause significant damage. Many insecticides are nonspecific, which means they kill all insects, including the ones you want to keep. In addition, use the most accurate application methods you can. Although most insecticides are not selective enough to kill only the particular insect you have targeted, shop carefully to find the one that is most specifically aimed at your pest problem. Insecticides that must be applied directly to the insect or that break down quickly on treated surfaces kill fewer beneficial insects. Beneficial insects are often slow to colonize a yard. The best way to make sure they are nearby is to maintain their natural habitats. You can do this by maintaining a diversity of plantings. Adults of some beneficial insects need to feed on pollen and nectar. Plants with very small flowers and some flowering weeds, such as some clovers and Queen Anne’s lace, in and around the yard may help preserve a diversity of insect life. Cabbage and sunflowers are also attractive to beneficials. In addition, artificial food supplements that contain yeast, whey proteins, and sugars can attract or increase the numbers of beneficial insects. Keep in mind that maintaining habitats and providing artificial food can attract pests as well as beneficial insects. Although it is important to bring pest populations below damaging levels, it is not necessary to completely eradicate undesirable insects. In fact, leaving some pests alive will help maintain the populations of beneficial insects. Cover bare dirt with mulch of dead leaves or grass clippings, thick enough to shade the soil surface. This provides shelter for spiders, the number one predator on insects. In many cases, conserving beneficial insects will provide natural control of insect pests. But natural control does have its limitations. Predators and parasites work slowly. It may take weeks or even seasons for beneficial insect populations to build up. Also, you are always left with at least a few undesirable insects in the yard. And while you are at it, don’t forget the birds. Adding birdhouses and water features will encourage birds to visit your yard. Visit the University of Illinois web site for more information: http://www.thisland.illinois.edu/ University of Illinois Extension College of Agriculture, Consumer and Environmental Sciences web site Rose Care: Water, Mulch & Fertilizer Roses do best with uniform soil moisture throughout the growing season. The general rule of thumb suggests that you apply one inch of water per week during the growing season. The amount and frequency of application will depend on soil type. Sandy soils will need more frequent irrigation than heavier clay soils. Hot temperatures would call for more frequent irrigation, also. Use soaker hoses in rose beds whenever possible to deliver water while keeping the foliage dry, preventing disease. Use mulch around roses to help retain soil moisture. Mulch will also help keep soils cool and help retard weed growth. Materials such as wood chips, straw, or dry grass clippings make good mulches. More decorative materials such as shredded hardwood bark or cocoa bean hulls can also be used. Mulches should be applied about 2-3 inches deep and replaced as needed. Organic mulches bind up nitrogen as they decompose. Additional fertilizer may be needed to prevent nutrient deficiencies. In order to maintain strong, healthy roses, it is important to fertilize annually. The schedules vary depending on the types of roses being grown. For species roses, a spring application of general-purpose fertilizer is usually adequate for the season. Generalpurpose fertilizers such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12 are used at about one-half to one cup per plant. Spread the fertilizer in a band starting six inches from the crown of the plant, going out to about 18 inches. Work it in lightly and water. All other roses benefit from a second application about June 15 or at the end of the spring bloom period. For continuousflowering or repeat-blooming roses, a third application in mid-July is suggested. Don’t fertilize after August 15 so as not to encourage soft, succulent growth that could be easily winter-damaged. Roses can be fall fertilized after the plants have gone dormant. Applying fertilizer at this time will not encourage growth but will be available as the plants start to grow in the spring. Also by using a fertilizer high in potassium winter hardiness tends to be increased. Fertilizing a rose bush showing suggested placement of fertilizer University of Illinois web site Mosquitoes: Mosquitoes lay eggs in stagnant water. The key to controlling mosquitoes is in controlling the places where they breed. In the garden: n Place window screen wire securely over top of rain barrels to keep leaves and mosquitoes out. Or use mosquito Bti donuts. n Never leave water in sprinkling cans or buckets for more than one day. n Check garden statuary for places water may collect. Add holes for drainage or empty regularly. n Make sure stored pots are not collecting water. Even water in a tin can may breed mosquitoes. n Clean and replenish bird baths and pet water bowls at least twice a week. n Empty saucers under flowerpots regularly. Protect your home: n Keep drains and culverts free of grass clippings, weeds and trash so water will drain properly. n Empty standing water from: potted plants, bird baths, pet dishes, wading pools, old tires, repair torn screens, clean gutters, and use Bti donut (larvicide available at garden centers) in areas standing water can not be eliminated. What doesn’t work to control mosquitoes: n Mosquito repelling plants, bug zappers, electronic emitters, light traps/carbon dioxide traps Carpenter Ants Most carpenter ants that enter the home are black and can vary in length from 1/4 to 3/4 inch. Unlike termites, all carpenter ants have narrow (or constricted) waists and elbowed (bent) antennae. Carpenter ants are social insects which form large colonies. A mature carpenter ant colony may contain up to 3,000 individuals, but usually only one queen. Carpenter ants form nests in wood by tunneling against the grain. These galleries are free of mud and sawdust. Coarse sawdust is present below the entrance of an active nest. Habit: Carpenter ants are drawn to areas with high moisture levels. Indoors they are typically seen in bathrooms, basement/ sump pump areas, laundry areas, along sweating/leaking pipes and crawl spaces. Outdoors, they may be found in rotting wood of tree stumps and roots, and in moist areas such as under roof shingles, gutters, window sills, near chimneys, firewood, or in untreated wood products on or in the soil. Nests in buildings are frequently located in wood associated with current or old roof leaks and leaky pipes. Damage: Unlike termites, carpenter ants do not feed on wood products but are economically important because of the damage they cause by forming nests and because of the foods they contaminate. Generally, the ants do not weaken a building structurally. Control: Non chemical — Inspect the structure and nearby grounds for nests. Once the problem areas have been identified, areas with high moisture levels should be ventilated or drained. Replace wood damaged by carpenter ants, other insects, or decay organisms. Keep firewood away from the house and off the ground. Caulk and repair cracks and crevices in the structure. Repair leaky pipes and unclog gutters to prevent rainwater from backing up, and repair chimney flashing. Control: Chemical — Consult an expert. Sustainable Agriculture Tour Visits Unique Farms Woodford County — August 15 University of Illinois Extension is sponsoring a tour in the month of August to showcase some unique efforts in sustainable agriculture in Woodford County. On Saturday, August 15, Extension is sponsoring a tour to two farms: Mackinaw Valley Elk Farm and Blue Schoolhouse Farm, both in Congerville. The tour will travel first to the Mackinaw Valley Elk Farm at 10 a.m. for a tour of the facilities and a lunch featuring elk patties, elk brats and Blue Schoolhouse Farm vegetables. After lunch, the tour will reconvene at Blue Schoolhouse Farm to learn about their vegetable production, concluding at approximately 3 p.m. Mackinaw Valley Elk Farm began operating in 1994. Owner Gary Robenstein formerly lived in Idaho and was always fascinated with elk. “I heard of someone else raising elk in Illinois and decided to give it a try,” he said. Robenstein started with a herd of about 10 elk. Although his largest herd was 65, he currently has about 30 on 35 fenced acres. The tour will consist of a basic “Elk 101” lesson – raising them and the meat/antler market – and a hay rack ride around the elk pastures. Bill and Mercy Davison own and operate Blue Schoolhouse Farm, a 16-acre chemical-free farm growing a wide diversity of crops such as heirloom tomatoes, peppers, beets, cucumbers, melons, sweet corn, carrots, and potatoes. The farm also grows more unusual vegetable varieties such as arugula, Japanese turnips, and Asian greens. In order to grow a wide variety of vegetables without the use of synthetic chemicals, the farm employs a diverse range of farming strategies including organic pest control methods, weed management through cultivation, and careful preparation of the seed bed. “We manage soil fertility by rotating crops and growing appropriate cover crops,” said Davison. “We also use a limited amount of drip irrigation.” The fee is $20 per person, which includes lunch. You must register at least one week in advance. Visit https://webs.extension. uiuc.edu/registration/default.cfm?RegistrationID=2845 to register and for more details about each of the tours, including a map and agenda. To register by phone, contact Donna Cray at 217-241-4644. For more information, contact Deborah Cavanaugh-Grant (217-968-5512; [email protected]). Upcoming Events Telenet Class Schedule 2009 Natural Resource Telenets There is a $5 suggested donation for each telenet presentation. Black and white handouts will be made available only to those who pre-register. You can register by calling the Extension office at 467-3789 at least one day prior to the telenet. Master Gardeners (active and interns) are exempt from the suggested donation. The Woodford County Extension Office will be offering three natural resource telenets this fall. The fee is $5 per person. Please preregister by calling the office at 467-3789. Landscaping on the Wild Side From Field to Furnace: Using Miscanthus as an Alternative Energy Source JULY 14 JULY 16 1:00 pm 7:00 pm Woodford County Extension Office, Eureka Snyder Village Old Community Room (Gazebo Entrance), Metamora Attracting wildlife to the home landscape involves more than a couple of bird feeders. It is about creating a healthy, complete landscape with all the layers of plants and animals. If done correctly, the result is not a garden-gone-wild, but a well-maintained, attractive wildlife haven. Tree Maintenance Sept 15 1:00 pm Sept 17 7:00 pm Woodford County Extension Office, Eureka Snyder Village Old Community Room (Gazebo Entrance), Metamora Proper maintenance and care are key to ensuring that your trees will be around for years to come. Correct pruning, mulching, and general cultural practices are important for overall tree health. This program gives you the basics to properly care for your trees. Poisonous Plants Sept 29 1:00 pm OCT 1 7:00 pm Woodford County Extension Office, Eureka Snyder Village Old Community Room (Gazebo Entrance), Metamora Have you ever developed a rash from a plant or nibbled on a berry—and wondered whether it was poisonous? Learn about common Illinois poisonous plants in our landscape so you can avoid them. Bonsai OCT 13 1:00 pm OCT 15 7:00 pm Woodford County Extension Office, Eureka Snyder Village Old Community Room (Gazebo Entrance), Metamora Bonsai is the art of aesthetic miniaturization of trees by growing them in containers. Cultivation includes techniques for shaping, watering, and re-potting in various styles of containers. AUGUST 31 6:30 pm Woodford County Extension Office, Eureka Extension Educator Gary Letterly will discuss Miscanthus as a potential alternative crop for producers and energy source for power plants and individuals. Prairie Restoration Techniques OCTOBER 5 6:30 pm Eureka Public Library Dr. Ken Robertson and Don Gardner will provide a follow up to their Introduction to Prairies telenet they did last fall. This telenet will focus on restoration techniques, plants, and management. Design and Use of Windbreaks NOVEMBER 12 6:30 pm Eureka Public Library Dave Shiley will discuss the benefits of windbreaks, as well as provide information on proper design (including types of trees, spacing, etc) and maintenance to maximize their usefulness and life. Japanese Beetle Season Begins Reports are beginning to come in of adult Japanese Beetles emerging in our region. With the late plantings of corn and soybeans, the beetles are expected to be more predominant in yards until the fields become a more attractive source of food. For the latest in how to control the beetles, please contact the Woodford County Extension office or visit University of Illinois’ Home, Yard & Garden newsletter on the web at http://hyg.ipm.illinois.edu. If you need a reasonable accommodation to participate in any of our programs, please contact the Woodford County Extension Office at (309) 467-3789. Gardening Tips for Summer Though it is a continual task, as always, continue the weeding. Your plants will love you for your efforts. Early July Deadhead the roses and the annuals for continued blooming. Old blossoms may set seed and flowering will cease. Once lily blooms have ceased, clip off the entire seed head. Leave the stem and leaves for growth and to build plant reserves. Cut back ‘Silver Mound’ Artemesia by half anytime the plant flops over to expose its center. Mulch around pepper and tomato plants to conserve moisture and prevent weeds. Where rain is plentiful, mow your lawn using the one-third rule: cut the height of the grass by one third. Also, stay out off the grass when wet to avoid spreading any fungus to other areas. Keep cutting your broccoli florets so they will continue to produce. Spray, dust or pick off cucumber beetles and squash borers on the summer squash, cucumbers and melons. Water if needed. Water your vegetable garden and shrubs deeply and less often. Don’t waste water on the lawn. It will survive. Add a side dressing of compost to your tomatoes and peppers. Water your container plantings. They can dry out quickly in hot weather. Watch for overloaded branches on your tomato plants. Support may be necessary. Harvest onions. Dry them in a warm place for two weeks before moving them to cool storage. Keep birdbaths clean and filled with fresh water — good for the birds and will not encourage mosquitoes if replaced every two days. The leaders on indeterminate tomatoes should be turned in toward the supports if they are growing on a trellis. Plant succession plantings of green beans, turnips and lettuce now. Early August Conserve water in dry, hot weather by letting your lawn go dormant. It will green up again as soon as the rains resume. If you haven’t done it yet, add mulch to garden beds to conserve moisture. Give extra water to moisture-loving plants like ferns and astilbe. Plant Autumn Crocus now for blooms in September. Early tomatoes may be ready for picking soon. Cut cauliflower heads now, while they are at their best. Keep picking your cucumbers and squash for continued fruit set. Keep weeding. It is important now to keep the weeds from setting seed and making more work for next year. Your first sweet corn should be ready for picking. Watch for white cabbage butterflies. They lay eggs and hatch into cabbage worms. If you haven’t, dust or spray with Bt (Bacillus thuringenius). Herbs like basil or oregano retain their best flavor when the flowers are pinched as soon as they form. Plant more zucchini and cucumbers for fall harvest. Early crop potatoes should be ready for digging. Dig and divide iris, bleeding heart, Oriental poppy, phlox and peony plants. Check your lawn for grubs. Cut a square of sod, 1 foot on each side, flip it over and count the grubs. Ten or more and your lawn should be treated. Water your young trees, shrubs and perennials. And when the garden needs water, the compost pile should be watered, too. Late August Late July Renew perennial geraniums by shearing off old growth as soon as the flowers fade and the plants start to look ratty. With annual geraniums, deadhead the flowers and remove any yellowing foliage. Break off lower leaves of Brussels sprouts to increase sprouts on the taller stem. Don’t forget to water your container plants. They need it more now. Prune water sprouts from apple/crab trees. Keep petunias and marigolds deadheaded. If gaps develop in your flower borders, fill the gaps with new, container-grown plants. Dig potatoes when their tops die back. Watch your tomato plants. Support them to keep the fruit from touching the soil. Black Leaf Spot is a continuing problem for roses. Pick off affected leaves and spray with fungicide. Follow instructions carefully. Plant your fall crop of beans, leaf and Romaine lettuce and radishes. Apples may be ready for a first picking. For a fall harvest, plant beans, beets, Chinese cabbage, spinach and turnips. Raise your mower height 1/2 inch as your grass growth slows. Master Gardener staff University of Illinois * U.S. Department of Agriculture * Local Extension Councils Cooperating University of Illinois Extension provides equal opportunities in programs and employment. 2009 Master Gardener Calendar Summer Travels In this year of tight finances, all of us are looking for ways to enjoy life while spending less. I have a suggestion — this summer visit public gardens in Illinois. Gardens can be found everywhere you look — tucked into downtown streetscapes, on college campuses, scattered through state parks, surrounding state historic sites, and in rural prairies. Not sure where to go? There are a lot of gardening sites on the internet that list public gardens: gardenguides.com, gardens.com, iloveplants.com, and publicgardens.org (advanced search) are just a few. A general internet search of “Illinois gardens” will turn up a lot of options as well. You can also ask gardening friends about places to visit. To broaden all our horizons on where we can visit, e-mail me a list of your favorite Illinois public garden spots or where your Illinois garden travels took you this summer. We will publish the list in an upcoming Journal. Send suggestions to my e-mail address: [email protected]. Safe and happy travels! Cynthia Baer Woodford County Director University of Illinois Woodford County Master Gardeners Woodford County 117 W. Center Street P.O. Box 162 Eureka, IL 61530 (309) 467-3789 Woodford County Master Gardeners Susan Baker Cathy Bandeko Bruce Brown Paul Gottshall Ann Heisler Ed Hoekstra Betty Holmes Eunice Kaisner Cheryl King Shelby Knoll Jane Flanders Osborn Jack Pfaffmann Bunny Randall Karen Ratledge Vicki Ridle Susan Rowen Karen Ruckle Kenneth Smith Gretchen Strauch Pam Terry Shirley Whalen Joni Wolffe http://www.extension.uiuc.edu/mg July 14 12:30 pm Meeting prior to Landscaping on Wild Side Telenet University of Illinois Extension Office, Eureka August 13 10 am Meeting and Tour of Hoerr Nursery, Peoria September 22 10:00 am Tour of Green Acres Herb Farm, Lowpoint, Illinois November No meeting December 2 12:00 pm Woodford County Master Gardener Meeting and Christmas Potluck at University of Illinois Extension Office, Eureka Master Gardener Journal Woodford County Extension 117 West Center P.O. Box 162 Eureka, IL 61530