Download Journal Master Gardener Master Gardener Demonstration Garden Woodford County

July/August 2009
Vol. 5 No. 4
Woodford County
Master Gardener
Journal
UNIVERSITY OF ILLINOIS
EXTENSION
MASTER GARDENER
Master Gardener Demonstration Garden
Summer is a great time to get out and visit
gardens. One of our regional hidden treasures
is the Master Gardener Demonstration Garden
at Illinois Central College in East Peoria.
This garden is the product and collected
work of Peoria County, Tazewell County,
and Woodford County Master Gardeners.
Started in 2000, the garden is made up
of numerous themed plantings (Contemplation Garden, Senses Garden, Bird Garden),
variety demonstrations (heirloom vegetables,
grasses, herbs, daylilies, perennials, annuals,
roses, small fruits), and structures (raised beds,
gazebo, several arches, variety of walkways).
The garden is open from dawn to dusk
every day. Master Gardeners are available
to answer questions on most Tuesday and
Thursday mornings, weather permitting.
The garden is located behind the ICC
Horticulture Land Lab, ¼ mile from the
Route 24 entrance to the East Peoria
Campus. Park in Lot G.
Cynthia Baer
Woodford County Extension Director
From University of Illinois Extension and Master Gardeners of Woodford County, for Gardeners in West-Central Illinois
Hellebores: Perfectly Behaved in the Shade
Hellebores are particularly valued in gardens
for their winter and early spring flowering
period; the plants are surprisingly frostresistant and many are evergreen. The hellebores are native to much of Europe, with
the greatest concentration of species occurring in the Balkans.
The flowers have five “petals” (actually
sepals) surrounding a ring of small, cup-like
nectaries (petals modified to hold nectar).
The sepals do not fall as petals would, but
remain on the plant, sometimes for many
months. The flowers of some species may
resemble wild roses (the reason for their
common names, such as “Christmas rose”
and “Lenten rose”), but hellebores do not
belong to the rose family.
The so-called Christmas rose (H. niger),
a traditional cottage garden favorite, bears
its pure white flowers (which often age to
pink) in the depths of winter; large-flowered
cultivars are available, as are pink-flowered
and double-flowered selections.
The most popular hellebores for garden
use, however, are undoubtedly H. orientalis
and its colorful hybrids. They flower in
early spring, around the period of Lent,
and are often known as Lenten hellebores,
oriental hellebores, or Lenten roses. They
are excellent for bringing early color to
shady herbaceous borders and areas between
deciduous shrubs and under trees.
Hybridizing (deliberate and acci=
dental) between H. orientalis and
several other closely-related species
and subspecies has vastly improved the
color-range of the flowers, which now
extends from slate grey, near-black,
deep purple and plum, through rich red
and pinks to yellow, white and green.
The outer surface of the sepals is often
green-tinged, and as the flower ages, it
usually becomes greener inside and out;
individual flowers often remain on the
plant for a month or more. The inner
surface of each sepal may be marked
with veins, or dotted or blotched with pink,
red or purple.
Recent breeding programs have also created double-flowered and anemone-centred
plants. Double hellebores provide a very
interesting variation to the standard hellebore. They are generally easy to maintain
and share the same planting conditions as
the standard hellebore. Semi-double flowers have one or two extra rows of petals;
doubles have more.
Basic Cultural Requirements
Most hellebores are relatively care-free
plants. As with many ornamental perennials, adequate soil preparation is the key to
long term health and vigor.
Though hellebores will grow in a great
variety of soil conditions, a well-drained
base containing plenty of organic matter
suits them. Preparing deep beds will provide
the extensive root systems plenty of growing room. Ideally, the soil should receive
regular moisture without being waterlogged. However, the plants are surprisingly
drought-tolerant once established and can
survive in less than optimum conditions.
They grow well among shrubs or under
trees.
Almost invariably hellebores are sold as
shade plants. One of the benefits is that
they will tolerate shady conditions, but are
accepting of a variety of conditions. Best in
partial shade, plants in deep shade will live
but generally exhibit sparser growth and
produce fewer blooms.
Propagation
Most hellebores divide fairly easily. Simply
make sure to choose an established clump
and dig up as much of the root-ball as
possible. Hellebores have extensive root
systems, often deeper than the height of
the plant. Gently shaking or washing off
the excess soil allows for better viewing.
Though it is possible to divide at almost
any time of the year in some climates, late
spring and early fall generally provide the
most opportune times for many gardeners.
Dividing hellebores is the only simple way
to produce more of a special plant.
Careful hand pollination can result in
many similar (or even superior) specimens,
but seed-grown plants in many cases will
differ significantly from the parent. Even
with controlled conditions, plants grown
from seed show amazing variation.
Problems and Diseases
In the main, hellebores are fairly trouble
free. Aphids are sometimes a problem as
are slugs and snails. As far as diseases go,
two of the most ugly are ‘Black Spot’ and
‘Black Death’. Though more common in
Europe, the latter is fatal to the plant.
On old leaves it is normal to see browning and blackening of tissues as the individual leaves go through their natural
life cycles; however, there are cases where
blackening occurs in otherwise active
and healthy tissue.
Hellebores growing in well ventilated
environments do not usually show any
blackening on actively growing tissue.
But, if you are concerned with the health
of any plant, remove and destroy the
plant.
Excerpted from Wikipedia
If you can’t beat it; eat it!
Is it a worthless weed or a fabulous food for
feasting? Purslane is cursed and curried all at
the same time. For most of us it comes as an
unwelcome dinner guest in our gardens and
paths. With the many questions we receive
about it, I thought it worth revisiting.
Purslane, Portulaca oleracea, was introduced into the U.S. from southern Europe or
northern Africa and has spread throughout
the world as an edible plant and as a weed.
Many cultures embrace purslane as a food.
Purslane has succulent leaves and reddish
stems with yellow flowers, similar to jade
plants in appearance. The stems lay flat on
the ground as they radiate from a single taproot sometimes forming large mats of leaves.
It is closely related to Rose Moss, Portulaca
grandiflora, grown as a “not so weedy” ornamental. Check out U of I's Midwestern
Turfgrass Weed Identification website for
some great pictures of purslane http://www.
turf.uiuc.edu/weed_web/index.htm
Purslane is an annual reproducing
from seeds and from stem pieces. One
plant can produce 240,000 seeds and
the seeds can stay in the soil for 40 years.
The plant also has enough food reserves in
its stems and leaves for the seeds to continue to ripen even when the plant is pulled
from the ground. You may find those facts
either depressing or exciting.
If you are trying to control purslane,
the number one rule is: don’t let it flower.
About three weeks after seedlings emerge;
flowers and seeds will be produced. Also
plants or plant pieces that are uprooted but
not removed can reroot into the soil. I put
them on top of a board to dry. Running a
tiller through purslane is called “purslane
propagation.” Do not till it. Tilling just
brings more seeds to the surface to germinate.
Purslane grows just about anywhere from
fertile garden soil to the poorest arid soils.
A rock driveway is nirvana to purslane. Its
succulent characteristic makes it
very drought tolerant.
Purslane’s Achilles’ heel is its
inability to grow in the shade. It
doesn’t germinate well when seeds are more
than ¼ inch deep. Mulching with grass or
wood chips will help to control it. Purslane
seeds germinate best with soil temperatures
of 90º so mulching may again help to control it. It doesn't appear until June when
preemergent herbicides may have lost their
effectiveness. Post emergent herbicides such
as glyphosate will kill existing weeds.
Be sure to read and follow all label
directions.
Now if you are in the “if you can’t beat
’em then eat ’em” category, you won’t go
hungry. There is plenty of purslane available and I’m sure your neighbors would
love to share. If you are a connoisseur, you
can also purchase purslane seeds for the
upright cultivated forms for better flavor
and easier harvesting.
With purslane aficionados the preference
is eating fresh young plants, and especially
young leaves and tender stem tips. The
taste is similar to watercress or spinach. Use
purslane in salads or on sandwiches instead
of lettuce or pickles. Next time order a ham
and purslane on rye. Purslane can also be
cooked as a potherb, steamed, stir-fried or
pureed. It tends to get a bit slimy if overcooked. It can be substituted for spinach in
many recipes.
Before grazing in your yard be sure to
wash purslane thoroughly and make sure it
is free of any pesticides. As with any new
food, don’t over indulge.
Locally, Prairieland Community
Supported Agriculture has some nice
recipes using purslane on their web site.*
Bon Appetit!
http://www.prairienet.org/pcsa/recipes/
purslane.htm
*URLs of sites not affiliated with University
of Illinois Extension are provided solely for
our clients’ convenience. Reference to specific
external websites does not imply endorsement
by University of Illinois Extension nor is discrimination intended against any omitted.
Sandra Mason, Horticulture Educator
University of Illinois Extension
Disease Management
in the Garden
Growing healthy, disease-free vegetables and flowers
must begin with proper watering, fertilizing, and
weeding. Do this and you help maintain strong,
healthy plants.
Many of the disease organisms commonly found
in home gardens survive the winter on infected
plant debris and become active with the onset
of warmer temperatures and spring rains. Most
diseases are stimulated by rainfall throughout the
growing season.
To help minimize the severity of springtime disease, remove and destroy all plant debris at the
end of the growing season. It is important to remove
and destroy weeds both within and surrounding the
garden since they too, can harbor disease organisms.
Practice crop rotation.
To slow the disease process during the growing
season, water plants at ground level early in the
day and provide adequate spacing between plants.
To reduce the spread of disease, promptly remove
and destroy infected leaves and plants, and avoid
working in the garden when plants are wet.
A variety of fungicides are available for disease
control. If disease has been severe in the past, a
fungicide application may help as a preventative
treatment. Make sure to properly identify the disease before selecting, buying, or using a fungicide.
Finally, use disease-free seeds or transplants
and resistant varieties when planting the garden.
Chad Behrendt, University of Minnesota
University of Illinois Extension
Common Problems for
Vegetable Crops
Though we would all like for our
gardens to be lovely and perfect, nature doesn’t cooperate.
So, the University of Illinois Extension has developed a web site to
help you research the problems
you run into in the garden. You
can search by the vegetable or
by the problem. A click on your
problem, and you will be taken
to another page with photos,
a description and information
about controlling the problem.
http://urbanext.illinois.edu/
vegproblems/
Don’t Forget the Good Guys: Conserve Beneficial Insects
Some bugs are on your side. They are the
natural enemies of damaging insects and
are known as beneficial insects. Releasing
beneficial insects into your yard or garden
may have some benefit, but your best bet
is to conserve the beneficials already there.
Keeping beneficial insects alive may help
keep pest problems at an acceptable level so
you can reduce insecticide use.
Some common beneficials are:
Green lacewings which eat aphids.
Lady Beetles which go after aphids, scales
and other soft-bodied insects and mites.
Praying mantis which eats moving insects.
Spiders which attack flying insects and caterpillars.
Wasps which lay eggs on hornworms.
Parasitic wasps attack all stages of insects.
Syrphid (hover) flies which eat aphids.
Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) on plants are tiny
controls for caterpillars.
Beneficial nematodes in soil control larvae.
An important way to conserve beneficials is to treat your yard and garden with
insecticides only when pest populations are
great enough to cause significant damage.
Many insecticides are nonspecific, which
means they kill all insects, including the
ones you want to keep. In addition, use the
most accurate application methods you can.
Although most insecticides are not selective enough to kill only the particular insect
you have targeted, shop carefully to find the
one that is most specifically aimed at your
pest problem.
Insecticides that must be applied directly
to the insect or that break down quickly on
treated surfaces kill fewer beneficial insects.
Beneficial insects are often slow to
colonize a yard. The best way to make sure
they are nearby is to maintain their natural
habitats. You can do this by maintaining a
diversity of plantings.
Adults of some beneficial insects need to
feed on pollen and nectar. Plants with very
small flowers and some flowering weeds,
such as some clovers and Queen Anne’s
lace, in and around the yard may help preserve a diversity of insect life. Cabbage and
sunflowers are also attractive to beneficials.
In addition, artificial food supplements that
contain yeast, whey proteins, and sugars can
attract or increase the numbers of beneficial
insects.
Keep in mind that maintaining habitats
and providing artificial food can attract
pests as well as beneficial insects. Although
it is important to bring pest populations
below damaging levels, it is not necessary
to completely eradicate undesirable insects.
In fact, leaving some pests alive will help
maintain the populations of beneficial
insects.
Cover bare dirt with mulch of dead
leaves or grass clippings, thick enough to
shade the soil surface. This provides shelter
for spiders, the number one predator on
insects.
In many cases, conserving beneficial
insects will provide natural control of insect
pests. But natural control does have its limitations. Predators and parasites work slowly.
It may take weeks or even seasons for beneficial insect populations to build up. Also,
you are always left with at least a few undesirable insects in the yard.
And while you are at it, don’t forget the
birds. Adding birdhouses and water features
will encourage birds to visit your yard.
Visit the University of Illinois web site
for more information:
http://www.thisland.illinois.edu/
University of Illinois Extension
College of Agriculture, Consumer and
Environmental Sciences web site
Rose Care: Water, Mulch & Fertilizer
Roses do best with uniform soil moisture
throughout the growing season. The general
rule of thumb suggests that you apply one
inch of water per week during the growing season. The amount and frequency of
application will depend on soil type. Sandy
soils will need more frequent irrigation than
heavier clay soils. Hot temperatures would
call for more frequent irrigation, also.
Use soaker hoses in rose beds whenever
possible to deliver water while keeping the
foliage dry, preventing disease.
Use mulch around roses to help retain
soil moisture. Mulch will also help keep
soils cool and help retard weed growth.
Materials such as wood chips, straw, or
dry grass clippings make good mulches.
More decorative materials such as shredded
hardwood bark or cocoa bean hulls can also
be used. Mulches should be applied about
2-3 inches deep and replaced as needed.
Organic mulches bind up nitrogen as they
decompose. Additional fertilizer may be
needed to prevent nutrient deficiencies.
In order to maintain strong, healthy
roses, it is important to fertilize annually.
The schedules vary depending on the types of
roses being grown. For species roses, a spring
application of general-purpose fertilizer is
usually adequate for the season. Generalpurpose fertilizers such as 10-10-10 or
12-12-12 are used at about one-half to
one cup per plant. Spread the fertilizer in
a band starting six inches from the crown
of the plant, going out to about 18 inches.
Work it in lightly and water.
All other roses benefit from a second
application about June 15 or at the end of
the spring bloom period. For continuousflowering or repeat-blooming roses, a third
application in mid-July is suggested. Don’t
fertilize after August 15 so as not to encourage
soft, succulent growth that could be easily
winter-damaged. Roses can be fall fertilized
after the plants have gone dormant.
Applying fertilizer at this time will not
encourage growth but will be available as
the plants start to grow in the spring. Also
by using a fertilizer high in potassium winter
hardiness tends to be increased.
Fertilizing a rose bush showing suggested
placement of fertilizer
University of Illinois web site
Mosquitoes:
Mosquitoes lay eggs in stagnant water. The key to controlling
mosquitoes is in controlling the places where they breed.
In the garden:
n Place window screen wire securely over top of rain
barrels to keep leaves and mosquitoes out. Or use
mosquito Bti donuts.
n Never leave water in sprinkling cans or buckets for
more than one day.
n Check garden statuary for places water may collect.
Add holes for drainage or empty regularly.
n Make sure stored pots are not collecting water. Even
water in a tin can may breed mosquitoes.
n Clean and replenish bird baths and pet water bowls at
least twice a week.
n Empty saucers under flowerpots regularly.
Protect your home:
n Keep drains and culverts free of grass clippings, weeds
and trash so water will drain properly.
n Empty standing water from: potted plants, bird baths,
pet dishes, wading pools, old tires, repair torn screens,
clean gutters, and use Bti donut (larvicide available
at garden centers) in areas standing water can not be
eliminated.
What doesn’t work to control mosquitoes:
n Mosquito repelling plants, bug zappers, electronic
emitters, light traps/carbon dioxide traps
Carpenter Ants
Most carpenter ants that enter the home are black and can vary
in length from 1/4 to 3/4 inch. Unlike termites, all carpenter ants
have narrow (or constricted) waists and elbowed (bent) antennae.
Carpenter ants are social insects which form large colonies. A
mature carpenter ant colony may contain up to 3,000 individuals,
but usually only one queen. Carpenter ants form nests in wood by
tunneling against the grain. These galleries are free of mud and sawdust. Coarse sawdust is present below the entrance of an active nest.
Habit: Carpenter ants are drawn to areas with high moisture
levels. Indoors they are typically seen in bathrooms, basement/
sump pump areas, laundry areas, along sweating/leaking pipes
and crawl spaces. Outdoors, they may be found in rotting wood
of tree stumps and roots, and in moist areas such as under roof
shingles, gutters, window sills, near chimneys, firewood, or in
untreated wood products on or in the soil. Nests in buildings
are frequently located in wood associated with current or old
roof leaks and leaky pipes.
Damage: Unlike termites, carpenter ants do not feed on wood products but are economically important because of the damage they
cause by forming nests and because of the foods they contaminate.
Generally, the ants do not weaken a building structurally.
Control: Non chemical — Inspect the structure and nearby
grounds for nests. Once the problem areas have been identified,
areas with high moisture levels should be ventilated or drained.
Replace wood damaged by carpenter ants, other insects, or
decay organisms.
Keep firewood away from the house and off the ground. Caulk
and repair cracks and crevices in the structure. Repair leaky
pipes and unclog gutters to prevent rainwater from backing up,
and repair chimney flashing.
Control: Chemical — Consult an expert.
Sustainable Agriculture Tour Visits Unique Farms
Woodford County — August 15
University of Illinois Extension is sponsoring a tour in the month
of August to showcase some unique efforts in sustainable agriculture in Woodford County. On Saturday, August 15, Extension is
sponsoring a tour to two farms: Mackinaw Valley Elk Farm and
Blue Schoolhouse Farm, both in Congerville.
The tour will travel first to the Mackinaw Valley Elk Farm at
10 a.m. for a tour of the facilities and a lunch featuring elk patties,
elk brats and Blue Schoolhouse Farm vegetables. After lunch, the
tour will reconvene at Blue Schoolhouse Farm to learn about their
vegetable production, concluding at approximately 3 p.m.
Mackinaw Valley Elk Farm began operating in 1994. Owner
Gary Robenstein formerly lived in Idaho and was always fascinated
with elk. “I heard of someone else raising elk in Illinois and
decided to give it a try,” he said. Robenstein started with a herd
of about 10 elk. Although his largest herd was 65, he currently has
about 30 on 35 fenced acres. The tour will consist of a basic “Elk
101” lesson – raising them and the meat/antler market – and a
hay rack ride around the elk pastures.
Bill and Mercy Davison own and operate Blue Schoolhouse Farm,
a 16-acre chemical-free farm growing a wide diversity of crops such as
heirloom tomatoes, peppers, beets, cucumbers, melons, sweet corn,
carrots, and potatoes. The farm also grows more unusual vegetable
varieties such as arugula, Japanese turnips, and Asian greens.
In order to grow a wide variety of vegetables without the use of
synthetic chemicals, the farm employs a diverse range of farming
strategies including organic pest control methods, weed management
through cultivation, and careful preparation of the seed bed. “We
manage soil fertility by rotating crops and growing appropriate cover
crops,” said Davison. “We also use a limited amount of drip irrigation.”
The fee is $20 per person, which includes lunch. You must
register at least one week in advance. Visit https://webs.extension.
uiuc.edu/registration/default.cfm?RegistrationID=2845 to register
and for more details about each of the tours, including
a map and agenda. To register by phone, contact Donna Cray
at 217-241-4644. For more information, contact Deborah
Cavanaugh-Grant (217-968-5512; [email protected]).
Upcoming Events
Telenet Class Schedule 2009
Natural Resource Telenets
There is a $5 suggested donation for each telenet presentation. Black and white handouts
will be made available only to those who pre-register. You can register by calling the Extension
office at 467-3789 at least one day prior to the telenet. Master Gardeners (active and interns)
are exempt from the suggested donation.
The Woodford County Extension Office will
be offering three natural resource telenets
this fall. The fee is $5 per person. Please preregister by calling the office at 467-3789.
Landscaping on the Wild Side
From Field to Furnace:
Using Miscanthus as an
Alternative Energy Source
JULY 14
JULY 16
1:00 pm
7:00 pm
Woodford County Extension Office, Eureka
Snyder Village Old Community Room (Gazebo Entrance), Metamora
Attracting wildlife to the home landscape involves more than a couple of bird feeders.
It is about creating a healthy, complete landscape with all the layers of plants and animals.
If done correctly, the result is not a garden-gone-wild, but a well-maintained, attractive
wildlife haven.
Tree Maintenance
Sept 15 1:00 pm
Sept 17 7:00 pm
Woodford County Extension Office, Eureka
Snyder Village Old Community Room (Gazebo Entrance), Metamora
Proper maintenance and care are key to ensuring that your trees will be around for years
to come. Correct pruning, mulching, and general cultural practices are important for
overall tree health. This program gives you the basics to properly care for your trees.
Poisonous Plants
Sept 29 1:00 pm
OCT 1 7:00 pm
Woodford County Extension Office, Eureka
Snyder Village Old Community Room (Gazebo Entrance), Metamora
Have you ever developed a rash from a plant or nibbled on a berry—and wondered
whether it was poisonous? Learn about common Illinois poisonous plants in our
landscape so you can avoid them.
Bonsai
OCT 13 1:00 pm
OCT 15 7:00 pm
Woodford County Extension Office, Eureka
Snyder Village Old Community Room (Gazebo Entrance), Metamora
Bonsai is the art of aesthetic miniaturization of trees by growing them in containers.
Cultivation includes techniques for shaping, watering, and re-potting in various styles
of containers.
AUGUST 31 6:30 pm
Woodford County Extension Office, Eureka
Extension Educator Gary Letterly will
discuss Miscanthus as a potential alternative
crop for producers and energy source for
power plants and individuals.
Prairie Restoration Techniques
OCTOBER 5 6:30 pm
Eureka Public Library
Dr. Ken Robertson and Don Gardner will
provide a follow up to their Introduction to
Prairies telenet they did last fall. This telenet
will focus on restoration techniques, plants,
and management.
Design and Use of Windbreaks
NOVEMBER 12 6:30 pm
Eureka Public Library
Dave Shiley will discuss the benefits of
windbreaks, as well as provide information
on proper design (including types of trees,
spacing, etc) and maintenance to maximize
their usefulness and life.
Japanese Beetle Season Begins
Reports are beginning to come in of adult Japanese Beetles emerging in our region.
With the late plantings of corn and soybeans, the
beetles are expected to be more predominant in
yards until the fields become a more attractive
source of food.
For the latest in how to control the beetles, please
contact the Woodford County Extension office or visit
University of Illinois’ Home, Yard & Garden newsletter
on the web at http://hyg.ipm.illinois.edu.
If you need a reasonable accommodation to participate in any of our programs, please contact
the Woodford County Extension Office at (309) 467-3789.
Gardening Tips for Summer
Though it is a continual task, as always, continue the weeding.
Your plants will love you for your efforts.
Early July
Deadhead the roses and the annuals for continued blooming.
Old blossoms may set seed and flowering will cease.
Once lily blooms have ceased, clip off the entire seed head. Leave
the stem and leaves for growth and to build plant reserves.
Cut back ‘Silver Mound’ Artemesia by half anytime the plant flops
over to expose its center.
Mulch around pepper and tomato plants to conserve moisture
and prevent weeds.
Where rain is plentiful, mow your lawn using the one-third rule: cut
the height of the grass by one third. Also, stay out off the grass when
wet to avoid spreading any fungus to other areas.
Keep cutting your broccoli florets so they will continue to produce.
Spray, dust or pick off cucumber beetles and squash borers on the
summer squash, cucumbers and melons.
Water if needed. Water your vegetable garden and shrubs deeply
and less often. Don’t waste water on the lawn. It will survive.
Add a side dressing of compost to your tomatoes and peppers.
Water your container plantings. They can dry out quickly in hot
weather.
Watch for overloaded branches on your tomato plants. Support
may be necessary.
Harvest onions. Dry them in a warm place for two weeks before
moving them to cool storage.
Keep birdbaths clean and filled with fresh water — good for the
birds and will not encourage mosquitoes if replaced every two days.
The leaders on indeterminate tomatoes should be turned in toward
the supports if they are growing on a trellis.
Plant succession plantings of green beans, ­turnips and lettuce now.
Early August
Conserve water in dry, hot weather by letting your lawn go dormant. It will green up again as soon as the rains resume.
If you haven’t done it yet, add mulch to garden beds to conserve
moisture. Give extra water to moisture-loving plants like ferns and
astilbe.
Plant Autumn Crocus now for blooms in September.
Early tomatoes may be ready for picking soon.
Cut cauliflower heads now, while they are at their best.
Keep picking your cucumbers and squash for continued fruit set.
Keep weeding. It is important now to keep the weeds from setting
seed and making more work for next year.
Your first sweet corn should be ready for picking.
Watch for white cabbage butterflies. They lay eggs and hatch
into cabbage worms. If you haven’t, dust or spray with Bt
(Bacillus thuringenius).
Herbs like basil or oregano retain their best flavor when the flowers
are pinched as soon as they form.
Plant more zucchini and cucumbers for fall harvest.
Early crop potatoes should be ready for digging.
Dig and divide iris, bleeding heart, Oriental poppy, phlox and
peony plants.
Check your lawn for grubs. Cut a square of sod, 1 foot on each
side, flip it over and count the grubs. Ten or more and your lawn
should be treated.
Water your young trees, shrubs and perennials. And when the
garden needs water, the compost pile should be watered, too.
Late August
Late July
Renew perennial geraniums by shearing off old growth as soon
as the flowers fade and the plants start to look ratty. With annual
geraniums, deadhead the flowers and remove any yellowing foliage.
Break off lower leaves of Brussels sprouts to increase sprouts on the
taller stem.
Don’t forget to water your container plants. They need it more now.
Prune water sprouts from apple/crab trees.
Keep petunias and marigolds deadheaded.
If gaps develop in your flower borders, fill the gaps with new,
container-grown plants.
Dig potatoes when their tops die back. Watch your tomato plants.
Support them to keep the fruit from touching the soil.
Black Leaf Spot is a continuing problem for roses. Pick off affected
leaves and spray with fungicide. Follow instructions carefully.
Plant your fall crop of beans, leaf and Romaine lettuce and radishes.
Apples may be ready for a first picking.
For a fall harvest, plant beans, beets, Chinese cabbage, spinach and
turnips.
Raise your mower height 1/2 inch as your grass growth slows.
Master Gardener staff
University of Illinois * U.S. Department of Agriculture * Local Extension Councils Cooperating
University of Illinois Extension provides equal opportunities in programs and employment.
2009 Master Gardener Calendar
Summer Travels
In this year of tight finances, all of us are looking for
ways to enjoy life while spending less. I have a suggestion — this summer visit public gardens in Illinois.
Gardens can be found everywhere you look — tucked
into downtown streetscapes, on college campuses, scattered through state parks, surrounding state historic
sites, and in rural prairies.
Not sure where to go? There are a lot of gardening
sites on the internet that list public gardens: gardenguides.com, gardens.com, iloveplants.com, and publicgardens.org (advanced search) are just a few. A general
internet search of “Illinois gardens” will turn up a lot
of options as well. You can also ask gardening friends
about places to visit.
To broaden all our horizons on where we can visit,
e-mail me a list of your favorite Illinois public garden
spots or where your Illinois garden travels took you
this summer. We will publish the list in an upcoming Journal. Send suggestions to my e-mail address:
[email protected].
Safe and happy travels!
Cynthia Baer
Woodford County Director
University of Illinois
Woodford County
Master Gardeners
Woodford County
117 W. Center Street P.O. Box 162
Eureka, IL 61530
(309) 467-3789
Woodford County Master Gardeners
Susan Baker
Cathy Bandeko
Bruce Brown
Paul Gottshall
Ann Heisler
Ed Hoekstra
Betty Holmes
Eunice Kaisner
Cheryl King
Shelby Knoll
Jane Flanders Osborn
Jack Pfaffmann
Bunny Randall
Karen Ratledge
Vicki Ridle
Susan Rowen
Karen Ruckle
Kenneth Smith
Gretchen Strauch
Pam Terry
Shirley Whalen
Joni Wolffe
http://www.extension.uiuc.edu/mg
July 14
12:30 pm
Meeting prior to Landscaping on Wild Side Telenet
University of Illinois Extension Office, Eureka
August 13
10 am
Meeting and Tour of Hoerr Nursery, Peoria
September 22
10:00 am
Tour of Green Acres Herb Farm, Lowpoint, Illinois
November
No meeting
December 2
12:00 pm
Woodford County Master Gardener Meeting and Christmas
Potluck at University of Illinois Extension Office, Eureka
Master Gardener Journal
Woodford County Extension
117 West Center
P.O. Box 162
Eureka, IL 61530