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CHAPTER TWO REVIEW OF LITERATURE This chapter reviews the literature in five main areas: (1) the theory of consumer clothing selection influences, (2) the theory of consumer behavior, (3) the theory of making purchasing decisions, (4) the theory of marketing mix, and (5) relevant research. 2.1 THEORY OF CONSUMER CLOTHING SELECTION INFLUENCES Marshall, Jackson, Stanley, Kefgen, and Touchie-Specht (2000) stated that there are at least six issues that influence consumers to select clothes: sociopsychological influences, cultural influences, physical influences, demographic influences, fashion industry influences, and design element influences. 2.1.1 Socio-psychological Influences Clothing or apparel is considered as another form of nonverbal communication. It reflects the silent meaning of individuals’ personalities, ideas and interaction. Whatever wearers wear, clothing will translate the characteristics of the wearers. The message of clothing can be found everywhere. It represents a range of messages such as product advertising, political beliefs, school and work loyalties, geographic travels and humor. Observers gain an impression and understand the role of one another from clothing symbols. In other words, clothing transmits self-identity to others including physical character, self-image, personality, styles, lifestyle, values, attitudes and interests. 2.1.2 Cultural Influences Culture is another issue that influences individuals or groups in clothing selection. In clothing history, clothing has been created for physical protection based on the particular climate and temperature in each place. Two primary motivations that influence individuals towards developing clothing are modesty and adornment. Modesty concepts among individuals are different although they are from the same cultural group. Fashion professionals give significant attention to the modesty difference in order to better design and produce the most likely modest 9 clothing among individuals. Adornment can be identified as accessories that are used to beautify or decorate the body through the use of clothing. Besides modesty and adornment, individuals also select their clothes based on their sociocultural needs. Individuals are recognized as members of a particular social group. Clothing communicates individuals’ culture in the following topics: economic position, social status, ethnic identification, gender and age differentiation, marital status, religious ideas, technical changes and aesthetic ideals 2.1.3 Physical Influences The body variances give each individual a unique body including the characteristics of body, head, fat proportion, body type and weight. An increase in physical fitness interest has been led by consumer body consciousness. The numerous combinations of skin color, hair color and type, and nails also contribute to an individuals’ clothing selection. Understanding these physical influences leads to more appreciation of clothing selection for fashion professionals. 2.1.4 Demographic Influences Fashion innovators usually segment their target population by studying the demographic information. In order to pinpoint consumers specific needs, they need to develop, select and promote apparel products, and to understand customers, retailers will have to obtain answers to such questions as who are potential customers in this store? ; Are they male or female? ; Where do they live? ; and What is their income level? 2.1.5 Fashion Industry Influences The fashion industry, a worldwide industry, generates a large number of apparel and accessories designed for men, women and children. Consumers regard the idea of fashion as one of the influential factors in selecting clothing. The idea of fashion is varied by a group of people at a particular time and place. Conventionally, wealthy or socially prominent actors or actresses, political or business leaders or their spouses, and others who are widely recognized make the designs become fashionable. After the new style has been introduced by fashion leaders, the followers take it up imitatively 10 2.1.6 Design Element Influences In terms of design element influences, two elements that influence consumers in clothing selection are color and material texture. 2.1.6.1 Color The use of color is related to the selection of clothing and items of personal adornment. Individuals emphasize the contrast of the lightness or darkness of a color. To avoid color breaks, individuals keep various garments of an outfit in the same color family. Everyone has their own degree of color sensitivity based on certain colors and combinations of colors that are more pleasing to him or her than others. 2.1.6.2 Material texture Texture, a sensory impression that is understood by visual perception and touch, refers to the surface of the material quality. Individuals consider material texture as a guideline for making decisions when selecting clothing. They prefer the best matching texture to their physical proportions, skin, hair texture and personality. 2.2 THEORY OF CONSUMER BEHAVIOR Hoyer and Maclnnis (2007) pointed out about consumer behavior in two important topics: definition of consumer behavior and consumer behavior affectation. 2.2.1 Definition of Consumer Behavior Hoyer and Maclnnis (2007) stated that consumer behavior is a reflection of consumers’ decisions regarding the acquisition, consumption, and disposition of goods, services, activities, and ideas by human decision making units over time (see Figure 2). 11 Figure 2. Consumer behavior model. From Consumer Behavior (p. 4), by W. D. Hoyer and D. J. Maclnnis, 2007, NewYork: Houghton Mifflin. Based on Figure 2, consumer behavior involves the study of decision making in terms of whether, why, when, where, how, how much, and for how long consumers will buy, use or dispose of an offering. When consumers accept an offering, three stages of implementing an offer are applied in the study: acquiring, using, and disposing. An offering to consumers does not involve only tangible products, but it also includes services, activities, and ideas. The sequence of implementing an offering can occur over a matter of hours, days, weeks, months or even years by many groups of people, for instance, single individuals, a group of friends, coworkers or families. The decision makers’ roles vary upon a particular situation. They can be information gatherers, influencers, deciders, purchasers or users. 2.2.2 Consumer Behavior Affectation Four main factors that affect consumer behavior are categorized into four parts: the psychological core, the process of making decision, the consumer’s culture and consumer behavior outcomes. 2.2.2.1 Psychological core The psychological core is exemplified by when consumers decide to purchase something, they intend to have the best product or service. That is why they have motivation as a first stage of considering many choices. Then, in the exposure 12 stage, they will perceive and attend to any information that is relevant to the decision making process. From various sources of collected data, consumers categorize and comprehend information. If any information is not similar to their expected frame, they will not consider it further. The next stage is to form and change attitudes based on categorized information. However, consumers’ attitudes can be changed since their attitudes don’t predict their behavior. The final internal process of psychological core is to form and retrieve memories. 2.2.2.2 The Process of Making Decisions When consumers make a decision, the following three steps make up the process that occurs: information search, judgment making, and postpurchase decision. 1) Information Search The components of the psychological core cause problem recognition when consumers recognize that their needs are unfulfilled. This leads consumers to search relevant information before deciding. 2) Judgment Making Several decision criteria are involved in making decisions. Consumers will think about them deeply, analyze them critically and form attitudes about them. 3) Post-Purchase Decisions Consumers will evaluate whether the decision that was made is correct and whether to come back to the same decision again. 2.2.2.3 The Consumer Culture Apart from internal processes, culture affects the way consumers process information. Typical or expected behavior, norms and ideas that characterize a group are included in culture. Influencing factors include diversity influences, social class and household influences, values, personalities, and lifestyles, reference groups, and other social influences. 13 2.2.2.4 Consumer Behavior Outcomes The psychological core, consumer’s culture, and the process of making decisions symbolize the consumer behavior outcomes. The consumer behavior outcomes can be seen from the use of the products and the diffusion of ideas, products or services. Products and rituals hold symbolic significance when people undergo role transitions, serve as symbols of connection to people, places, and times that have meaning, and are symbols of individuality and uniqueness. The combined symbolic use of products and rituals affect the consumer’s self-service. 2.3 THEORY OF MAKING DECISIONS TO PURCHASE Blythe (2005) stated that there are six related stages of consumers’ decision making process in purchasing: problem recognition, information search, evaluation of alternatives, purchase, post-purchase evaluation, and divestment. These stages are called feedback loops (see Figure 3). Figure 3. Consumer decision making process in purchasing. From Essentials of Marketing (p. 45), by J. Blythe, 2005, Essex: Ashford Colour. 2.3.1 Problem Recognition Based on Figure 3, problem recognition is the first step of making the decision to purchase; it often arises when there is a need for some items among consumers. It occurs when the consumers’ stock of goods has been used up or they feel the need to add some new items based on utilitarian (functional attributes of the product) or hedonic (pleasurable or aesthetic aspects of the product) purposes. An internal stimulus or drive leads to motivation which is the reason why people take 14 action. The motivation level depends on the desirability of the end goal, and the ease of achieving the end goal. It’s a marketer’s concern to specify the situations that trigger a particular need. By gathering information from a number of consumers, marketers would have the information of what stimulates those consumers the most. 2.3.2 Information Search Regarding information search, there are two sources where consumers can search for information: internal search and external search. The internal search engages in remembering previous experiences of the product category and what consumers have heard about the product category. The external search includes seeking information externally by shopping around, perceiving advertisements, and talking to friends. 2.3.3 Evaluation of Alternatives After receiving all the collected information, consumers will select a consideration set, which is the group of products that would most closely meet the need by comparing the minimum and maximum acceptable values for the product characteristics. However, a number of interruptions while evaluating alternatives could occur, for example, environmental stimuli, affective states, unexpected information, or conflicts. 2.3.4 Purchase and Post-Purchase Evaluation When the alternative is evaluated, consumers will purchase the products that they are familiar with and will also consider remittance terms. After gaining the products, consumers will decide whether the purchased product has been a success or not. This process involves a comparison between what consumers were expecting and what the products actually were. If the products do not live up to the consumers’ standard, it would lead to post-purchase dissonance and a rejection of the products. 15 2.3.5) Divestment Divestment refers to the way that consumers dispose of the product after use. Marketers consider this as an important part in terms of green marketing, which relates to environmental issues and the opportunity to increase sales of new products. 2.4 THEORY OF MARKETING MIX A set of marketing instruments that an organization uses to pursue its marketing objectives with the target market is called the marketing mix (Kotler, 2003). Sudaduang Ruengrujira (สุดาดวง เรืองรุจิระ, 2543, p.29) also stated that marketing strategies are important components in operating marketing tasks. It is a set of controllable and tactical marketing tools. Many organizations can adapt these marketing mix variables to meet the needs of their target market. The marketing mix can be classified into four categories called the four Ps of marketing: product, price, place and promotion. Each P has equal importance depending on the marketing team’s strategies. The ultimate goal is to satisfy the marketing target, which is the consumers. 2.4.1 Product Product is considered as an offering to customers including product variety, quality, design, features, brand name, packaging, sizes, services, warranties and returns. (Kotler, 2003). Sudaduang Ruengrujira (สุดาดวง เรืองรุจิระ, 2543, p.29) proposed that product means the mixture of the goods and services, or ideas that satisfy consumers’ needs. Conventionally, marketers will highlight the total product including product, satisfaction and additional advantages that consumers will gain from purchasing the product. It is the marketers’ job to improve the product to meet target consumers’ standards. As mentioned by Russ and Kirkpatrick (1982), some product attributes should be considered before launching in the market: designs, material variety and servicing. 16 2.4.1.1 Design The design of the product is considered one of the major factors that should be considered because this aspect affects the purchasing decision for both buying agents and ultimate customers. Different designs differentiate product characteristics. It enhances appearance or buyer satisfaction. 2.4.1.2 Material variety Material choices are crucial for most customers, for example, various colors, different styles and different materials. The better you provide exactly what customers want, the better you prevent customers from going somewhere else. 2.4.1.3 Servicing Servicing policies among sellers always play an important role in consumers’ decisions about which product or brand to buy. Customers demand better service. They feel that it is compulsory for that manufacturers or retailers to have a policy of servicing their products. 2.4.2 Price Price represents the value of the goods or services. Marketers consider the following issues to set up the best price in the market: price list, discounts, allowances, payment periods, and credit terms (Blythe, 2005). Sudaduang Ruengrujira (สุดาดวง เรืองรุจิระ, 2543, p.31) also stated that pricing strategy is a key factor for every manufacturer in order to show the worthy things to consumers. It would lead to acceptance or rejection from target consumers. It is the most important tool that business competitors use to steal market share, for example, price discount. However, as the consumers’ evaluations of a product’s worth change over time, a price tends to change rapidly as well. 2.4.3 Place Place refers to wherever the organization’s target group of customers find as the easiest way to shop for products or services. Marketers emphasize distribution channels, coverage, assortments, locations, inventory and transport when making a marketing plan (Blythe, 2005). It is a component of marketing strategies involving all aspects of distributing products to the consumers in the right place at the right time. Who, when, where will present the goods is the topics that marketers would concern. There are two parts of distribution: channel of distribution and 17 physical distribution. The technique of passing products through consumers is called the channel of distribution, for example, direct sellers or middle man agents. The physical distribution concerns distributing products to each consumer. Marketers would consider the easiest way with the most economical cost to access consumers (สุดาดวง เรืองรุจิระ, 2543, p.30). 2.4.4 Promotion Promotion is the way that marketers communicate and utilize the marketing tools to their target customers. Promotion mix includes sales promotion, advertising, sales force, public relations, direct marketing, telemarketing or internet (Blythe, 2005). The purpose of promotion is to tell consumers that the particular products have been launched to the market, to persuade them to purchase and to create a memory of the products among consumers. Four common communication processes that marketers use to communicate to consumers are called promotional mix: personal selling, advertising, sales promotion and public relations (สุดาดวง เรืองรุจิระ, 2543, p31). 2.4 RELEVANT RESEARCH Audurai Rattanasak (อัศนอุไร รัตนสัค, 2536) surveyed about attitudes towards brassieres among undergraduate students in Bangkok. The main points of the study were about attitudes towards the brassiere, price range, channel of distribution, and promotion factors influencing brassiere purchase. The research result found that most undergraduate students were satisfied with the available design and color in the market. The characteristics of brassieres that undergraduate students liked most were padded brassieres decorated with half cup embroidery and non-wire. The most important factor when deciding to purchase was comfort and good fitting. Most of them purchased brassieres at department stores and paid between 101-150 baht per piece. Mantanarat Kongchuay (มัณฑนรัตน คงชวย, 2546) researched marketing mix influences for purchasing brassieres among women in Bangkok. In that study 400 women aged 17-45 years old were asked about their opinions towards the marketing mix and whether it influenced their decision to purchase brassieres. The results 18 showed that the design and color of the brassiere were the most influential factors. 43.5% of the respondents preferred a plain design rather than a decorative design. Women purchased non-padded brassieres with bra wires in plain colors like white, pink and cream. Wearing comfort consisted of neat sewing and excellent fabric quality. The second factor was special discount. Most women wore Wacoal brand because of its comfort and good quality material. Most women could afford between 201 baht and 500 baht. Department stores were the places where most of the respondents purchased brassieres from. Ornuma Raksitanon (อรอุมา รักษิตานนท, 2548) surveyed Thai women’s brassiere buying behavior in the Bangkok metropolitan area with 400 women The research result found that most of the sampled group was 21-30 years old. They intended to buy brassieres before shopping, but they did not buy if the design was not satisfactory. The sampling group gave the importance to the shape of the brassiere which fitted to their breast. The most satisfying brand was Wacoal. The average price when buying a brassiere was 300 baht per piece. The respondents made their decision by considering popular brands with good quality. Central Department Store was the place where most of the respondents purchased brassieres from. The satisfaction of Wacoal Lingerie Missy Style Users in Bangkok was studied by Maiyasit Kayaiyam (มัยสิทธิ์ ขยายแยม, 2550). 400 respondents who wore Wacoal Lingerie Missy Style were asked about their perception of marketing media satisfaction towards Wacoal Lingerie Missy Style. Television was the most popular media that most respondents perceived, and internet was the least popular media. In terms of specific media, most of the sampled group preferred advertising boards while brochures were the least popular media. Patchakan Potibenjakul (พัชกานต โพธิเบญจกุล, 2550) studied factors affecting the purchasing decision behavior of female consumers’ of Wacoal lingerie (Wacoal Nude Collection) in the Bangkok metropolitan area. The research results showed that most of the samples were between 21 and 25 years old, had a monthly income of more than 15,000 baht, and, overall, had a good opinion of the marketing mix for Wacoal lingeries “Wacoal Nude” Collection. Customers’ overall motivation factor was at high level. When considering the details, the customers had high motivation in terms of 19 brand familiarity, brand favor, lingerie pattern and color. Customers were sometimes exposed to information about the lingerie. Customers often received information through magazines, catalogues, TV and fashion media shows. Most of the respondents sometimes received information through websites and advertisements. Information received through newspapers was very low. Jurintip Mahatananurak (จุรินทิพย มหาธนานุรักษ, 2552) investigated what office women considered when choosing brassieres. The sample was 120 office women who worked in urban areas of Bangkok. The results indicated that most of the respondents were 25-26 years old. The largest proportion wore Wacoal brand because of its quality. Most of the respondents spent 301-500 baht and bought two brassieres each time. The most favorite type of brassiere was an under wire bra. Most of the respondents bought brassieres at department stores. The most effective promotion was special discount.