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Transcript
500W Subwoofer Power Amplifier (Updated).doc
(106 KB) Pobierz
500W Subwoofer Power Amplifier (Updated)
Rod Elliott (ESP)
 PCBs are available for this project. Click the image for details.
 The ESP heatsink extrusion is ideal for this project - click image for details
Introduction
There are some important updates to this project, as shown below. Recent testing has shown that
with the new ON Semi transistors it is possible to obtain a lot more power than previously. The
original design was very conservative, and was initially intended to use 2SA1492 and 2SC3856
transistors (rated at 130W) - with 200W (or 230W) devices, some of the original comments and
warnings have been amended to suit.
Updates
- OnSemi has just released a new range of transistors, designed specifically for
audio applications. These new transistors have been tested in the P68, and give excellent
results. As a result, all previous recommendations for output transistors are superseded,
and the new transistors should be used.
30 Jul 2003
The output devices are MJL4281A (NPN) and MJL4302A (PNP), and feature high
bandwidth, excellent SOA (safe operating area), high linearity and high gain. Driver
transistors are MJE15034 (NPN) and MJE15035 (PNP). All devices are rated at 350V,
with the power transistors having a 230W dissipation and the drivers are 50W.
23 Sept 2003 - The new
driver transistors (MJE15034/35) seem to be virtually impossible
to obtain - ON Semi still has no listing for them on the website. The existing devices
(well known and more than adequate) are MJE15032 (NPN) and MJE15033 (PNP), and
these will substitute with no problems at all. It is also possible to use MJE340 and
MJE350 as originally specified (note that the pinouts are reversed between the TO-126
and TO-220 devices).
Note that some component values have been changed! The layout is the same, but the
changes shown will reduce dissipation in Q7 and Q8 under light load conditions.
Having built a couple of P68 amps using these transistors, I recommend them highly - the
amplifier is most certainly at its very best with the high gain and linearity afforded by
these devices. Note that there are a few minor changes to the circuit (shown below).
With ±70V supplies, the input and current source transistors must be MPSA42 or
similar - the original devices shown will fail at that voltage! Note that the MPSA42
pinout is different from the BC546s originally specified. Full details of transistor pinouts
are shown in the construction article (available to PCB purchasers only).
High power amps are not too common as projects, since they are by their nature normally
difficult to build, and are expensive. A small error during assembly means that you start again -
this can get very costly. I recommend that you use the PCB for this amplifier, as it will save you
much grief. This is not an amp for beginners working with Veroboard!
The amplifier can be assembled by a reasonably experienced hobbyist in about three hours. The
metalwork will take somewhat longer, and this is especially true for the high continuous power
variant. Even so, it is simple to build, compact, relatively inexpensive, and provides a level of
performance that will satisfy most requirements.
WARNINGS:
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â
This amplifier is not trivial, despite its small size and apparent simplicity. The
total DC is over 110V (or as much as 140V DC!), and can kill you.
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â
The power dissipated is such that great care is needed with transistor
mounting.
The single board P68 is capable of full power duty into 4 Ohm loads, but only
at the lower supply voltage.
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â
For operation at the higher supply voltage, you must use the dual board
version.
Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â
There is NO SHORT CIRCUIT PROTECTION. The amp is designed to be used
within a subwoofer or other speaker enclosure, so this has not been included. A short on
the output will destroy the amplifier.
DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS AMPLIFIER AS YOUR FIRST PROJECT
Description
Please note that the specification for this amp has been upgraded, and it is now recommended for
continuous high power into 4 Ohms, but You will need to go to extremes with the heatsink (fan
cooling is highly recommended). It was originally intended for "light" intermittent duty, suitable
for an equalised subwoofer system (for example using the ELF principle - see the Project Page
for the info on this circuit). Where continuous high power is required, another 4 output
transistors are recommended, wired in the same way as Q9, Q10, Q11 and Q12, and using 0.33
ohm emitter resistors.
Continuous power into 8 ohms is typically over 150W (250W for ±70V supplies), and it can be
used without additional transistors at full power into an 8 ohm load all day, every day. The
additional transistors are only needed if you want to do the same thing into 4 ohms at maximum
supply voltage! Do not even think about using supplies over ±70V, and don't bother asking me
if it is ok - it isn't!
The circuit is shown in Figure 1, and it is a reasonably conventional design. Connections are
provided for the Internal SIM (published elsewhere on the Project Pages), and filtering is
provided for RF protection (R1, C2). The input is via a 4.7uF bipolar cap, as this provides lots of
capacitance in a small size. Because of the impedance, little or no degradation of sound will be
apparent. A polyester cap may be used if you prefer - 1uF with the nominal 22k input impedance
will give a -3dB frequency of 7.2Hz, which is quite low enough for any sub.
Figure 1 - Basic Amplifier Schematic
The input stage is a conventional long-tailed pair, and uses a current sink (Q1) in the emitter
circuit. I elected to use a current sink here to ensure that the amp would stabilise quickly upon
application (and removal) of power, to eliminate the dreaded turn on "thump". The amp is
actually at reasonably stable operating conditions with as little as +/-5 volts! Note also that there
are connections for the SIM (Sound Impairment Monitor), which will indicate clipping better
than any conventional clipping indicator circuit. See the Project Pages for details on making a
SIM circuit. If you feel that you don't need the SIM, omit R4 and R15.
The Class-A driver is again conventional, and uses a Miller stabilisation cap. This component
should be either a 500V ceramic or a polystyrene device for best linearity. The collector load
uses the bootstrap principle rather than an active current sink, as this is cheaper and very reliable
(besides, I like the bootstrap principle :-)
All three driver transistors (Q4, 5 & 6)must be on a heatsink, and D2 and D3
should be in good thermal contact with the driver heatsink. Neglect to do this
and the result will be thermal runaway, and the amp will fail. For some reason,
the last statement seems to cause some people confusion - look at the photo
below, and you will see the small heatsink, 3 driver transistors, and a white
"blob" (just to the left of the electrolytic capacitor), which is the two diodes
pressed against the heatsink with thermal grease.
C11 does not exist on this schematic, so don't bother looking for it. It was
"mislaid" when the schematic was prepared, and I didn't notice until someone
asked me where and what it was supposed to be. Sorry about that.
It is in the output stage that the power capability of this amp is revealed. The main output is
similar to many of my other designs, but with a higher value than normal for the "emitter"
resistors (R16, R17). The voltage across these resistors is then used to provide base current for
the main output devices, which operate in full Class-B. In some respects, this is a "poor-man's"
version of the famous Quad current dumping circuit, but without the refinements, and in
principle is the same as was used in the equally famous Crown DC300A power amps.
Although I have shown MJL4281A and MJL4302A output transistors, because they are new
most constructors will find that these are not as easy to get as they should be. The alternatives are
MJL3281/ MJL1302 or MJL21193/ MJL21194.
Note: It is no longer possible to recommend any Toshiba transistors, since they are the most
commonly counterfeited of all. The 2SA1302 and 2SC3281 are now obsolete - if you do find them,
they are almost certainly fakes, since Toshiba has not made these devices since around 1999~2000.
Use a standard green LED. Do not use high brightness or other colours, as they may have a
slighty different forward voltage, and this will change the current sink's operation - this may be a
miniature type if desired. The resistors are all 1/4W (preferably metal film), except for R10, R11
and R22, which are 1W carbon film types. All low value resistors (3.3 ohm and 0.33 ohm) are
5W wirewound types.
Because this amp operates in "pure" Class-B (something of a contradiction of terms, I think), the
high frequency distortion will be relatively high, and is probably unsuited to high power hi-fi. At
the low frequency end of the spectrum, there is lots of negative feedback, and distortion is
actually rather good, at about 0.04% up to 1kHz. My initial tests and reports from others indicate
that there are no audible artefacts at high frequencies, but the recommendation remains.
Power Dissipation Considerations
I have made a lot of noise about not using this amp at ±70V into 4 ohms without the extra
transistors. A quick calculation reveals that when operated like this, the worst case peak
dissipation into a resistive load is 306W (4Ω/ ±70V supplies). The four final transistors do
most of the work, with Q7 and Q8 having a relatively restful time (this was the design goal
originally). Peak dissipation in the 8 output devices is around 70W each.
Since I like to be conservative, I will assume that Q7 and Q8 in the updated schematic shown
contribute a little under 1A peak (which is about right). This means that their peak dissipation is
around 18W, with the main O/P devices dissipating a peak of 70W each. The specified
transistors are 230W, and the alternatives are 200W, so why are the extra transistors needed?
The problem is simple - the rated dissipation for a transistor is with a case temperature of 25°C.
As the amp is used, each internal transistor die gets hot, as does the transistor case - the standard
derating curves must be applied. Add to this the reactive component as the loudspeaker drives
current back into the amp (doubling the peak dissipation), and it becomes all too easy to exceed
the device limits. The only way that this amp can be used for continuous high power duty with
±70V supplies and a 4Ω loudspeaker load is to keep the working temperature down to the
absolute minimum - that means four output devices per side, a big heatsink and a fan!
Figure 1a - Double Output Stage
Figure 1A shows the doubled output stage, with Q9, Q10, Q11 and Q12 simply repeated - along
with the emitter resistors. Each 1/2 stage has its own zobel network and bypass caps as shown, as
this is the arrangement if the dual PCB version is built. When you have this many power
transistors, the amp will happily drive a 4 ohm load all day from ±70V - with a big enough
heatsink, and forced cooling. Over 500W is available, more than enough to cause meltdown in
many speakers!
A Few Specs and Measurements
The following figures are all relative to an output power of 225W into 4 ohms, or 30V RMS at
1kHz, unless otherwise stated. Noise and distortion figures are unweighted, and are measured at
full bandwidth. Measurements were taken using a 300VA transformer, with 6,800uF filter caps.
Mains voltage was about 4% low when I did the tests, so power output will normally be slightly
higher than shown here if the mains are at the correct nominal voltage. Figures shown are
measured with ±56V nominal, with the figure in (brackets) estimated for ±70V supplies.
Â
Voltage Gain
Power (Continuous)
Peak Power - 10 ms
Peak Power - 5 ms
Input Voltage
Noise *
S/N Ratio *
8Ω
27dB
153W (240W)
185W (250W)
185W (272W)
1.3V (2.0V) RMS
-63dBV (ref. 1V)
92dB
4Ω
27dB
240W (470W)
344W (512W)
370W (540W)
1.3V (2.0V) RMS
-63dBV (ref. 1V)
92dB
Distortion
Distortion (@ 4W)
Distortion (@ 4W)
Slew Rate
0.4%
0.04% (1 Khz)
0.07% (10 kHz)
> 3V/us
0.4%
0.04% (1 Khz)
0.07% (10 kHz)
> 3V/us
* Unweighted
These figures are quite respectable, especially considering the design intent for this amp. While
(IMO) it would not be really suitable for normal hi-fi, even there it is doubtful that any
deficiencies would be readily apparent, except perhaps at frequencies above 10kHz. While the
amp is certainly fast enough (and yes, 3V/us actually is fast enough - response extends to at least
30kHz, but not at full power), the distortion may be a bit too high.
Note that the "peak power" ratings represent the maximum power before the filter caps discharge
and the supply voltage collapses. I measured these at 5 milliseconds and 10 milliseconds.
Performance into 4 ohm loads is not quite as good, as the caps discharge faster. The supply
voltage with zero power measured exactly 56V, and collapsed to 50.7V at full power into 8
ohms, and 47.5V at full power into 4 ohms.
Photo of Completed Prototype
The photo does not show the silk screened component overlay, since this is the prototype board.
The final boards have the overlay (as do all my other boards). The observant reader will also see
that the 5W resistor values are different from those recommended - this was an early prototype
using 130W transistors.
As can be seen, this is the single board version. The driver transistors are in a row, so that a
single sheet aluminium heatsink can be used for all three. Holes are provided on the board so the
driver heatsink can be mounted firmly, to prevent the transistor leads breaking due to vibration.
This is especially important if the amp is used for a powered subwoofer, but will probably not be
needed for a chassis mounted system.
The driver and main heatsinks shown are adequate for up to 200W into 4 ohms with normal
program material. The power transistors are all mounted underneath the board, and the mounting
screw heads can be seen on the top of the board.
Deceptively simple, isn't it?
Power Supply
WARNING: Mains wiring must be performed by a qualified electrician - Do not attempt
the power supply unless suitably qualified. Faulty or incorrect mains wiring may result in
death or serious injury.
The basic power supply is shown in Figure 2. It is completely conventional in all respects. Use a
40-0-40 V transformer, rated at 300VA for normal use. For maximum continuous power, a 50-050V (500VA or more) transformer will be needed. This will give a continuous power of about
450W, and peak power of over 500W is possible with a good transformer. Remember my
warnings about using the amp in this way, and the need for the additional output transistors, big
heatsink and fan.
Figure 2 - Basic Power Supply Circuit
For 115V countries, the fuse should be 6A, and in all cases a slow blow fuse is required because
of the inrush current of the transformer. For anything above 300VA, a soft-start circuit is highly
recommended (see Project 39).
The supply voltage can be expected to be higher than that quoted at no load, and less at full load.
This is entirely normal, and is due to the regulation of the transformer. In some cases, it will not
be possible to obtain the rated power if the transformer is not adequately rated.
Bridge rectifiers should be 35A types, and filter capacitors must be rated at a minimum of 63V
(or 75V if you use 70V supplies). Wiring needs to be heavy gauge, and the DC must be taken
from the capacitors - not from the bridge rectifier.
Although shown with 4,700uF filter capacitors, larger ones may be used. Anything beyond
10,000uF is too expensive, and will not improve performance to any worthwhile degree.
Probably the best is to use two 4,700uF caps per side (four in all). This will actually work better
than a single 10,000uF device, and will be cheaper as well.
It is essential that fuses are used for the power supply. While they will not stop the amp
from failing (no fuse ever does), they will prevent catastrophic damage that would result from
not protecting the circuit from over-current conditions. Fuses can be mounted in fuseholders or
can be inline types. The latter are preferred, as the supply leads can be kept as short as possible.
Access from outside the chassis is not needed - if the fuses blow, the amplifier is almost certainly
damaged.
NOTE:
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