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Chapter
6
Seeding Methods
Successful revegetation(restoration, rehabilitation, or reclamation) is obviously dependent on
the germination, establishment and eventual reproduction of desired seeded species. All
reasonable efforts effort must be made to assure suitable seed to soil contact at the most
appropriate time of year. All planning processes may have gone smoothly and intelligently up to
this point, but if the seed being broadcast (or drilled or hydroseeded) on the ground is not done
in a proper manner, all is for not. This is where the rubber really starts meeting the road- so to
speak or where the seed starts meeting the soil.
Although seeding is generally the most widely used method for restoration and revegetation,
planting live plants is also an option for smaller projects. Although planting live plants is more
expensive, it may be the best option in certain situations and may result in more rapid
establishment. Some projects may use a combination of planting and seeding for desired
results. It should also be noted that natural revegetation should also be considered as it may be
the best option when both native plants are already established in a reasonable density near the
site and when weeds do not seriously threaten to outcompete the native plants.
It is important to consider not only the patterns of the natural landscape for designing planting
patterns, but to also consider different species abilities to respond to different soil types,
aspects, slopes, etc to assure seeded species are placed in appropriate locations. Sometimes
different seed mixes and/or seeding methods for the same restoration site are warranted to best
mimic the natural landscape.
It must be noted that seeding native species often requires experience, but always requires
patience. Expect to wait at least three years before seeing significant results of a seeding
project, but often, five years are necessary.
SEEDING
The most common method of restoration is the use of specialized seed mixes. As mentioned in
Chapter 2, the underlying characteristics of each site (soils, aspect, slope) should be carefully
considered prior to determining seeding methods as well as seed mixes. The numerous
vegetation cover types of the Colorado Plateau highlights the variability of potential site
conditions and thus prevents the use of only one set of seeding guidelines. However, it should
be noted that plant establishment is more likely to be successful if locally adapted species are
used, particularly if properly seeded at the correct time.
Prior to seeding, pose the following questions once again to assist proper planning prior
to seeding and project ‘after-care’:
 Is seeding necessary?
 Do undesirable plants dominate the site?
 Is weed control practical?
 Is the desired amount and type of seed available and affordable?
 Should additional preparation be done before planting is undertaken?
Answers to these questions will help in the determination of the feasibility, timing, cost, and
probability of success of the project.
TIME OF SEEDING
As many restoration projects do not involve irrigation, the planting window must be chosen to
take advantage of natural moisture. Higher seeding success is directly proportional to
temperatures above freezing and high precipitation (provided it does not all come at once!). On
the Colorado Plateau, the best seeding window for cool season species is usually the early
spring and late fall. It is critical to truly wait until the late fall for seeding as many projects have
failed as a result of seedling emergence in the fall, but then perishing in an early frost. For
warm season species, seeding in late spring or early summer is better as temperatures are
more likely to be warm enough to support germination. Seeding should not be done when the
ground is frozen.
It is important to seed a site as soon as final grading and topsoil placement have occurred so as
to minimize erosion and weed establishment. If seeding cannot be accomplished in a timely
manner, bare soils should not remain unprotected. In these cases, it is possible to sow a
temporary cover crop such as ReGreen or other sterile hybrids to provide some soil cover until
the final seeding can be accomplished.
SEEDING RATES
Often, seeding rates are expressed in terms of pounds per acre. This can often be misleading
as the number of seeds per pound varies greatly by species. For instance, sand dropseed
(Sporobolus cryptandrus) has more than 5 million seeds per pound, whereas bluebunch
wheatgrass (Pseudoroegneria spicata) has only 140,000. If only pounds per acre are specified,
the final seed mix can easily become 1 pound each of sand dropseed and bluebunch
wheatgrass among some other possible species. The final seed mix would equate to 98% sand
dropseed and 2% bluebunch wheatgrass and would put 249 seeds per square foot on the
ground – a rate that is much too high and would be wasteful of valuable seed.
It is much more precise to create seed mixes that concentrate on the number of seeds per
square foot. The seed mix calculator available XX(WHERE) concentrates on assuring the
correct percentages of each species desired in the mix by taking into account the seed size or
number of seeds per pound. Many opinions exist as to the ideal number of seeds per square
foot for a successful restoration project. However, the ideal number will vary with project goals
as well as site conditions. The following are suggested seeding rates for common site conditions
and seeding methods.
Seeding Method/
Site Conditions
Broadcast
Hydroseeding
Drilling
Bare ground
60- 80 seeds/sq ft
60-80 seeds/ sq ft
30-50 seeds/ sq ft
Inter-seeding /over
seeding
20-40 seeds/ sq ft
20-40 seeds/ sq ft
~20 seeds/ sq ft
SEEDING METHODS
The three primary seeding methods include drilling, broadcasting and hydroseeding. The best
method to use will depends on site accessibility and terrain, seedbed characteristics and time of
seeding. Furthermore, each seeding method has an associated ideal seeding rate as well as
technique, given the site’s characteristics.
DRILL SEEDING
Drill seeding is used most often as it has generally shown the highest success rate. This is
generally because of the high seed to soil contact achieved through drilling as well as the ability
to better control seeding depth with some specialized drill seeders. However, drill seeders tend
to lose some effectiveness on slopes steeper than 3:1, where much standing woody materials
(e.g. juniper or pinyon) occurs, or where the soils are extremely rocky. As with any seeding
method, there are benefits and liabilities to drill seeding. Benefits include:
 Generally higher seeding success
 Ability to better control seeding depth
TIPS FOR DRILL SEEDING
In general seeding to a depth of 1/4 to 1/2 inches should be adequate. Seeding depth
recommendations vary from species to species and are included in Appendix (?). When
seeding multiple species, one can use a rangeland drill, such as the Truax drill (see photo
below), which has the capability of seeding different species at different depths at the same
time. Seeding should be conducted along the contour to avoid erosion from water flowing down
drill furrows.
Truax rangeland Drill (photo from
http://www.aprairiehaven.com/)
If a Truax drill is not available, greater success can often be achieved with smaller grass seed
and forbs by placing them in a separate seed box and alternating the seeing depth between
rows or dropping them directly on the ground to be covered by the action of heavy, trailing
chains.
**ALWAYS check seeding depth in a test strip prior to seeding the entire project!
The following components are required in a drill suitable for general use in native seeding
(Figure 7.1):
 Multiple seed boxes for different types of seed (agitators and picker wheels in at least
one box for fluffy seed).
 Double disc furrow openers (to cut through residue and reduce potential clogging
problems. The double-disk opener has good depth control under conservation tillage
conditions because it does not have a tendency to float up and over residue)
 Intact depth bands with functioning scrapers on all disc openers to ensure consistent,
uniform seed depth placement
 Seed tubes, which drop between disc openers, large enough to handle fluffy seed
 Packer wheels with adjustable tension, to provide proper soil compaction over and
adjacent to the seed
 Coulter wheels to allow penetration of furrow openers where seeding into heavy mulch
or cover crop adjacent to the seed
Seed Boxes With Agitators
Double Disk Furrow Opener
Depth Band
Scraper
Packer Wheels
Coulter Wheel
Figure 7.1 – Illustration of important components of a drill suitable for general use in native
seeding as outlined above.
Liabilities of drilling include:
 Seeds drilled in rows may suffer from high interseedling competition
 Unless specially modified drills (such as the Truax drill) are used, all seeds, regardless
of size, will be planted at the same depth; the smallest seeds are likely to be planted too
deep.
 Drill seeding leaves “rows” which often persist for many years; this may be a visual or
aesthetic liability.
For more information on variations of seeders, see Chapter 9 of USDA Forest Service Gen.
Tech. Rep. RMRS-GTR-136. Restoring Western Ranges and Wildlands, 2004
See Appendix X for basic calibration of drill seeders
and notes on calibration of broadcast seeders
BROADCAST SEEDING
Broadcast seeding is best on difficult terrain (slopes that are steep, extremely rocky, with
excessive amounts of standing woody materials, remote or inaccessible locations). For
broadcast seeding, it is critical to pay close attention to seedbed preparation, especially being
sure to harrow/ rake/ chain (or similar method) both before and after seeding to ensure good
seed to soil contact and eliminate any potential soil crusting. It is important to note that:
Broadcast seeding requires at least doubling the seeding rate of drill seeding
Benefits of broadcast seeding include:
 The variable planting depths that result from broadcast seeding allows better
establishment of smaller seeds than with drill seeding.
 Resulting vegetation not in “rows”, which is more aesthetically acceptable on many sites.
Liabilities of broadcast seeding include:
 High amount of seed necessary
 Imprecise calibration of seeding rates
 If broadcasting is not performed correctly, germination and seedling establishment tends
to be slower
 Broadcast seeding should not be attempted on windy days
Careful calibration of seeding rates and methods should be done to assure uniform coverage
over the site.
HYDROSEEDING
A hydroseeder consists of a water tanker with a special pump and agitation device to apply the
seed under pressure in a water slurry (Figure 7.2). Seed is then sprayed on to a roughened
slope. The results of hydroseeding are generally less satisfactory than drill or broadcast seeding
because the seed does not make good soil contact. In addition, the slurry mix often rolls off the
steep, hard slopes it is applied to, leaving very erratic and uneven distribution of seed.
Hydroseeding first application
Applying second layer of mulch
More success has been reported by making hydro-seeding a 2-stage process, whereby seed is
hydraulically applied with enough mulch to act as a tracer, then the majority of the mulch is
applied over the top in a second layer. This process has improved stand establishment, but
overall success is still poor relative to drill seeding or broadcasting/harrowing, where seeds are
actually incorporated into the soil. In addition, several thousand gallons of water are used to
apply seed and mulch over one acre, making hydro-seeding the most expensive seeding
method available.
Hydroseeding may be a good choice for seed that needs sunlight for germination, such as sand
dropseed and sagebrush. However, it should be limited to steep, inaccessible slopes in areas
with adequate and dependable moisture during the growing season. However, be aware that
the sheet flow of sprayed water on steep, impermeable slopes may wash the seeds off the
slope.
Alternative Methods for Successful Plantings [Columbia R Basin handbook]
As mentioned previously, it is important to revisit restoration objectives and seeding conditions
in the planning process. If invasive species pose a serious risk to the success of the project,
options available are discussed below to allow for greater success.
Staged Plantings
Many restoration projects that include forb or shrub seeding have utilized a “staged planting”
approach, whereby grasses and forbs are planted in successive years. This approach allows
one year of weed control with broadleaf-selective herbicides after grasses have been seeded.
There are pros and cons to this approach, but on balance, it seems to be the most effective
technique currently available.
Weed Control Tips
For weed control in these staged plantings, there is a limited time window immediately following
seeding when cheatgrass and other weeds can be controlled with no impact to seeded species.
The length of this window depends on soil moisture and temperature; germination and
emergence of many native grasses will occur within 7 – 10 days with good soil moisture and soil
temperatures at or above 45oF. If soil temperatures are between 32oF and 45oF, seeded species
will emerge slowly, taking 2 – 3 weeks.
Cheatgrass control is critical in the fall and early winter as fall-emerged cheatgrass is very
competitive with young grass seedlings. Cheatgrass roots may already be established and
depleting soil moisture by the time seeded species germinate and emerge (Hironaka 1961).
Prior to seeded species emergence, cheatgrass and other weeds can be controlled with
herbicides such as Roundup that have no soil activity. The rate of Roundup used for cheatgrass
control depends on the growth stage of cheatgrass and seeded grasses. As the likelihood of
planted species emergence increases, Roundup application rates should decline to minimize
impacts to seeded species.
Seeding with a seed drill or air seeder/harrow typically results in dust deposition on cheatgrass
leaves, which may preclude cheatgrass control by reducing herbicide absorption through the
leaf (Zou and Messersmith 2005). Dusty leaves are normally only an issue for several days after
seeding; rain, wind, or several nights of dew or frost is sufficient to clean dust off of leaves.
Should herbicide application occur within several days of seeding, cheatgrass leaves should be
examined for dust, and application postponed as needed (no more than a few days) to achieve
good herbicide contact.
Planted Stubble Mulch Crops
Annual grasses, such as sterile forage sorghums, sudan, or forage millets, can be planted the
growing season prior to permanent seeding. After crop maturation, native seeds can be sown
into the residual standing dead material, as this material serves to protect seedlings from
potential harsh winds and provide mulch to retain moisture. This is a very cost effective way to
provide mulch and seedling protection.
It should be noted that this method differs distinctly from use of a “nurse crop” in which the
annual grain and the perennial mix are planted simultaneously. The “nurse” usually ends up outcompeting the slow-growing perennials, especially where moisture is limiting.
Wheat, rye, and barley should not be used unless they will be mowed before seed maturity, as
they will produce seed that will compete with the seeded native species. The annual forage
graminoids must be mown prior to seed maturation to prevent reseeding and allow easier
drilling of the permanent seed. Planting into such cover requires a grass or no-till seed drill
equipped to handle low tillage and high “trash” conditions. Sterile hybrids (such as ReGreen or
Quick Guard) can be used for this purpose and do not have to be mowed prior to planting.
Stubble mulch is most appropriate on low-slope sites because water erosion control capabilities
of such covers are limited.
Forb Islands
Sometimes the expensive nature of forb and shrub seed can limit the amount that can be used
in a restoration project. One approach to balance costs with habitat objectives is to seed only a
portion of the project with these species according to funding and seed availability. Using this
approach, forb and shrub seed is planted in strips in a planned pattern (strips or located by
most appropriate habitat) to provide the maximum opportunity for seed movement after source
plants have become established. Depending upon conditions, the speed of forb and shrub
movement into unseeded areas may be relatively fast for wind dispersed species such as
yarrow, fleabane daisy, and sagebrush, but significantly slower for species with limited seed
dispersal such as penstemons and balsamroot. However, if sown grasses establish well on a
site, subsequent spread of forbs and shrubs into this competitive matrix may be extremely
limited, at least over the short term. Additional long-term monitoring is needed to fully assess
the efficacy of this approach in establishing a diversity of native forbs.
Planting plugs
Growing seedlings in the greenhouse and out-planting into the field is commonly used in
restoration scenarios. Seedlings can be planted in areas where soils are too rocky for traditional
site preparation, and/or to accelerate wildlife habitat development (Newsome 2011). Seedlings
can also be used to augment plant communities that are somewhat degraded, but still have
some components of the native plant community that managers wish to retain. In instances
where seed is limited, (e.g. rare plant species), planting seedlings can also make the most
efficient use of limited seed. Outplanting of plugs may also be used with species that have
shown to establish poorly in the field via seed. When this method is used, it is important to
consider irrigation needs. Plants should be watered at the time of planting, and will benefit
greatly from supplemental waterings. Generally, plants will require at least one year of regular
waterings. A soaking once every three weeks should be sufficient in cool weather, with
increased waterings during warm periods.
In some instances, packages of Dri-Water (or approved equivalent) can be planted alongside
the roots of the plugs to assure some moisture during establishment. Some have planted PVC
tubes beside plugs into which Dri-Water can be inserted repeatedly as needed until
establishment. Alternatively, a long PVC pipe can be buried next to the plug into which water
can be placed to assure the roots receive the moisture they need.
Photo of plant with associated deep pipe irrigation tube
Photo courtesy of David Bainbridge
Fertilizers and/or Root Growth Hormones
Available literature differs on its opinions concerning fertilizer use at the time of transplanting.
Ostler and Allred (1987) state that Osmocote tablets, a commercial slow-release fertilizer,
should be included at the bottom of the transplanting hole to assist with establishment. Some
professionals report that many native species, especially those with increased drought
tolerance, react adversely to fertilizer use at the time of establishment. With such species, even
mild fertilization can cause root-dieback and shoot burning. It is an excellent idea to consult with
a nursery, a plant ecologist, or the Natural Resource Conservation Service (NRCS) to help
determine specific requirements or suggestions.
POST SEEDING
After seeding, most sites will benefit from placement of a protective mulch cover. Such covers
protect soil and seeds from erosion by wind and water, and conserve soil moisture from the
effects of wind and sun. To be effective, mulches must cover the ground nearly completely and
have sufficient durability to survive until the seeds germinate.
MULCH
In general, mulch should be applied immediately after seeding to protect seed and to avoid
disturbing germinating seeds. The following are commonly used mulch types:
HAY
In general, hay mulches are more durable the longer the average unbroken stem length is.
Loose hay is usually highly susceptible to being blown off the surface in most Colorado Plateau
sites. To counteract this issue, hay should be “crimped” into the soil surface by using a modified
disc plow to jam the hay stems into the soil. This does little directly to enhance or stabilize the
important cover function of mulch but it can mimic the effects of reducing surface wind speeds
and soil desiccation that stubble mulch provides.
Durability of the applied mulch cover is also enhanced by addition of organic tackifier products
that “glue” (at least temporarily) the hay to itself and to the ground. When used, hay is typically
applied at the rate of 3,000 to 4,000 pounds per acre, but sites can benefit from rates as low as
2000 pounds per acre. Depending upon the hay market, the benefit of applying a mulch far
outweighs the initial cost.
However, hay may introduce undesirable weeds or nonnatives (e.g. smooth brome hay)
that may jeopardize carefully planned restoration projects. Beginning November 1998,
users of BLM administered land in Utah will be required to use only certified noxious weed free
hay, straw or mulch. Approved products for livestock feed on public lands include pellets, hay
cubes, processed grains and certified hay, straw or mulch normally available at some feed
stores and producers in Utah.
(http://www.blm.gov/ut/st/en/fo/vernal/grazing_/weed_free_hay.html)
As such, native, weed free hays should be sought. A list of certified weed-free hay (and
potentially native hay) producers is usually available on the web for each state through
Departments of Agriculture. Regardless, weed content of any material must be very carefully
monitored and controlled by inspection and certification as written and/or required in project
specifications.
Straw is often used for mulch, but the almost inevitable inclusion of grain seed in straw materials
makes the use of straw highly inadvisable because of the competition that results from
germinating grain plants.
HYDROMULCH
Hydromulch is essentially wood and/or paper fibers that are mixed into a water slurry and
sprayed onto the ground surface to apply a mulch coating of varying thickness. Hydromulch
should be applied separately following seed application. The hydromulch mix is often colored
green to assist operators in applying an even cover during spraying. The green color usually
fades to tan or gray within a few weeks. An organic tackifier is typically added to the slurry to
enhance the durability of the applied mulch cover. Although typically applied at a rate of
approximately 1,500 pounds per acre (1680 kg/ha), it is more effective at a rate of 3,000 pounds
per acre (3360 kg/ha) with a guar gum tackifier. Although hydromulches are effective, they are
substantially more expensive than other mulch types.
BONDED FIBER MATRIX
Bonded fiber matrix is a spray-on mat consisting of a continuous layer of elongated fiber strands
held together by a water-resistant bonding agent which creates a very durable and ground-fitting
cover. Bonded fiber matrix is especially useful where steep and very rocky surface conditions
would make the use of erosion control mats ineffective. It is important to assure a trained
technician applies the bonded fiber matrix as a continuous cover is needed to create the
integrated shell, but if the material is applied too thickly it can prevent penetration of seedling
shoots.
EROSION CONTROL MATS
There are a large variety of mats which can perform the function of mulch. Mats composed of
aspen shavings attached to or sandwiched between one or two plastic nets have long been
used with good success. There are also many mats comprised of different combinations of
coconut fiber, straw and other materials that double as both mulch and erosion control.
Erosion control mats are generally expensive and are most cost-effective when used on areas
where erosion potential is high and the site surface is relatively smooth. Use of erosion control
mats on rough ground is less effective because the mulch to ground contact is poor. Where the
surface is very rocky, material ends up suspended above most of the surface stretched between
protruding rocks.
Some mats have unsightly and non-environmentally friendly plastic netting that does not
biodegrade and can be stripped off by wind and/or causes issues with wildlife getting caught in
them.
Biodegradable netting (not to be confused with “photodegradable” plastic netting) is available
from some manufacturers at a slightly higher cost.
SAND OR ROCKS
In harsh sites, relatively thick layers or sand or small rocks can also serve to conserve moisture
as well as to hinder weed establishment.
PLANTING
Planting can complement seeding efforts and increase the overall success of a restoration
project and should not be overlooked because of the initial higher cost. Planting may be most
desirable when desired species are difficult to establish from seed, unavailable, or the only seed
sources available have low germination rates. Planting can be more effective when the
revegetation site has abnormally stressful environmental conditions, such as extremely low
nutrients, alkalinity, salinity, erosion potential or a short growing season, provided proper
irrigation is supplied, when the existing plant community will present severe competition during
seedling establishment, or a need for more rapid plant establishment exists than can be met
through seeding.
If planting is limited by budget constraints, fewer plants may be used by creating islands of more
mature plants to produce a more diverse and natural looking landscape as well as a central,
established stands of native plants that can reproduce and spread. Care must be taken to
protect plants as needed to assure over-browsing does not occur. At many sites, protective
tubes or cages should be installed on trees and shrubs to protect them from wildlife predation
until they are well established.
Plant Materials
Bareroot and containerized plants are common types of transplant stock usually purchased from
a nursery. If you are purchasing plant materials from a commercial supplier, the decision to use
bareroot or containerized stock should be based on species characteristics (Shallow vs deep
rooted species), site conditions, scheduling and cost.
Larger containers are more expensive to purchase, transport, store, handle and transplant.
However, post-transplant growth has been shown to increase with container sizes, provided
proper irrigation is supplied. In general, larger stock performs better under more adverse site
conditions (Landis and Simonich 1984).
Ideal ages of containerized stock
 herbaceous plants 1 to 3 years
 woody plants/shrubs 3 to 5 years
 trees 5 to 10 years
Ordering and Delivery
Order bareroot or containerized seedlings from 1 to 4 years in advance of the planting date. In
general, containerized seedlings should be ordered from between 1 to 2 years prior to planting;
bareroot seedlings should be ordered from 2 to 4 years prior to planting (Townsend et al. 1993,
Shaw 1984). Advanced planning and ordering will ensure the availability of desired species and
proper hardening of the stock. In addition to their standard stock, some nurseries offer custom
growing and may be able to propagate materials that are collected from the project site.
However, custom grown materials have a higher initial purchase cost and may require additional
production time as well as an initial contract and down payment (Townsend et al. 1993).
Upon receipt, all containerized stock should be examined to ensure


It has a root system adequate to hold the ball together but is not root bound.
It is adequately hardened.
The plant nursery should be held responsible for providing plants that are adequately hardened
and should be willing to certify that greater than 80% of the plants are hardened to withstand
temperatures of 20F for 8 hours.
Visual observations of lack of hardening will include brown necrotic stem tissue, copious leaf
drop, and brown, necrotic buds. Additionally, lush tender growth should be minimal and woody
stem development should be occurring at the crown. Rooting must ample enough for the plug to
retain its shape and potting mix after pulling.
The photos below help illustrate acceptable vs unacceptable traits for planting (photos courtesy
of NRCS Technical Notes State of Washington, February 2005)
Hardy sage plant, note the high degree of root development
when compared to the amount of top growth. Leaves are
compact and turgid.
Sage plant lacking cold-hardiness characteristics. Note elongated,
supple light-green leaves. Rooting is ample, but woody tissue
development is nonexistent and the amount of lush top-growth is
disproportionately high.
Other potential problems can be indicated by:




Elongated buds.
Leaf emergence.
Elongation of white root buds.
Root molds (not to be confused with mycorrhizae).
Seedlings should also be examined for their moisture level, which can be determined by
observing the root condition, the twig, needle or root flexibility, and the overall appearance
(Townsend et al. 1993).
Any damage or deficiencies in the stock should be immediately reported to the nursery and/or
contractor from whom it was received. If deficiencies occur in the number of plants shipped or
the packaging or transportation procedures, the nursery should be able to correct the problem. If
serious problems are noted for the received materials, they should not be planted and should be
classified as cull stock. Again, in such case, contact your nursery and/or contractor to correct
the problem before payment is made (Townsend et al. 1993).
SALVAGE
An alternative to purchasing plants is to collect them in the wild (refered to herein as “salvage”).
Salvaging native plants is ideal because 1) locally-adapted plants are “recycled,” 2) success of
transplant survival can be high when the native soil accompanies the salvaged plant, and 3)
salvaged plants can be more cost effective than purchased plants, especially for projects with
limited budgets but plenty of labor (paid or volunteer). Salvaged plants can either be directly
transplanted onto another site or potted and tended until the next planting season.
Acquisition of Salvaged Material
Salvaging from areas that have noxious weeds or undesirable plants should be avoided.
Native plants or sod on sites slated for development can be salvaged. This method requires
some advanced knowledge of construction areas and planning for the destination of salvaged
plants. Small numbers of plants may be transplanted from sites ecologically similar to the
revegetation site. On the other hand, if the revegetation project occurs in the same place as is
being disturbed, plants can be salvaged from the site itself. All salvaged plants and associated
soil should be weeded to prevent contamination from the donor site.
WHAT TO SALVAGE
General guidelines as to potentially salvageable material include:.




Use plants that reproduce through vegetative sprouting (root shoots)
Native plants that grow in disturbed areas are likely particularly suited for transplanting
Do NOT try to salvage plants with taproots and/or extensive root systems
Avoid diseased or weak plants
WHEN TO SALVAGE
The ideal time to salvage plants is during dormancy (October through April). However, plants
can be salvaged at other times of the year if one-third to two-thirds of the plant is cut back and a
good rootball is saved and kept moist. It is best to dig up plants in the morning and transplanting
on another site or potting the plants in the afternoon.
If plants are dug up when dormant, they should be “heeled in” in a pile of mulch or soil, and kept
moist until they are transplanted. Dormant plants that are potted will need to be watered
periodically through the dormant season. A soaking once every three weeks should be sufficient
in cool weather. Increase waterings during warm spells.
Transport plants in plastic grocery bags or moist burlap bags to conserve water. Heavy
machinery can be used to move large areas of sod or clumps of shrubs. Cuttings, sodding, and
plant salvage are less commonly used for upland species reintroduction, as containerized or
bareroot stock is more suitable for these sites.
Appendix X.
Drill Calibration Summary (from Nancy Shaw, USFS Research Station)