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Transcript
Lesson 26- Establishing plants and or seeds in soil Current health and safety legislation and codes of practice which apply to this area of work There is a wide range of legislation affected by ground preparation operations among these are; The Health and Safety at Work Act 1974 (HASAWA) places an obligation for workers to protect themselves and others during work operations. The Control of Noise at Work Regulations 2005 (employees must wear hearing protection if noise level is above 85dB.) Provision and Use of Safe Work Equipment Regulations 1998 (PUWER) (all machinery and equipment must be fit for use and maintained as per manufactures instructions.) Control of Substances Hazardous to Health 2002 (COSHH) employers need to assess the risks of all materials in the workplace e.g. fertilisers etc. and take steps to protect staff from these risks. Staff must then comply with any protective measures identified e.g. wear protective clothing etc. Personal Protective Equipment at work regulations 1992 (PPE) staff must be provided with and wear any PPE required to carry out work. Vibration at Work Regulations 2005- employers must assess the risks of vibration from machinery use and protect staff e.g. using machines that vibrate for a long period can cause hand-arm vibration syndrome (HAVS); and or carpal tunnel syndrome (CTS). These conditions can be very serious. All equipment should be assessed for vibration and if they exceed safe levels then the employer must ensure they are not used over a set time period. Environmental Permitting Regulations (2010) the purpose of this legislation is to govern the level of pollutants entering surface and groundwater. Pollutants could be nitrates and phosphates from fertiliser and pesticides residue from sprayers etc. (meaning workers must take care when applying pesticides and fertilisers near ponds, streams etc. The importance of timing and seasonality on planting to encourage establishment and growth. To ensure plants have the best chance of survival they should be planted at a suitable time of the year. In general terms this should be when the soil is moist and not too cold. This means the 2 major points in the year are the spring and the autumn. Examples of plants and season importance is shown below. Evergreen root-wrapped shrubs (root wrapped means the plants have been dug from the soil and then had their roots wrapped in materials to keep the soil in place keeping the roots moist) Evergreen plants tend to be planted in the spring when the soil is warm and they can quickly establish roots to obtain water. Evergreens keep their leaves all year round and therefore are always losing water so if planted in the winter often die as the wind sucks moisture from the leaves before the roots can establish in the cold soil. Left- root wrapped shrub- normally the wrapping is removed when the plant is put into the planting hole. Cont. on next page Bare rooted deciduous trees (bare rooted means plant has been dug out of ground and roots left without a cover of soil) Deciduous plants lose their leaves in autumn and during this time cannot lose much water so they can establish roots over the winter/early spring period before the new leaves emerge and begin to lose water. Left- bare rooted tree ready for planting Container grown hardy plants Hardy plants are plants that can withstand the cold. Also plants grown in containers have an established root system so can survive well when planted. Therefore, hardy container grown plants can be planted at any time of the year as long as they are watered in dry conditions. Left- container grown shrub Plant biology and its importance in plant establishment Knowing how a plant works is extremely helpful when you are trying to grow them. Understanding some basic factors involved in plant physiology can help ensure you provide the right conditions for growth. Conditions needed for the effective germination of seeds. Seeds need to establish shoots to make food from sunlight (photosynthesis) and roots to extract water and nutrients from the soil. They need to do this quickly so they can establish and cope with stresses such as cold and dry periods. To help seeds establish quickly they need in the main a. Warm soil to allow growth b. Moisture to promote growth c. Oxygen to allow for respiration To aid further establishment they also need d. Smooth firm seed bed for even germination e. Good nutrient levels to add good establishment f. Suitable light levels for growth g. Protection form damage (e.g. roping off areas to keep off players) The process of transpiration in plants factors that affect transpiration rates in grass. Transpiration explains the movement of water up the plant against the force gravity in tubes called xylem. To start the pull of water up the plant water on the surface of spongy and palisade cells (inside the leaf) evaporates and then diffuses out of the leaf through tiny holes called stomata. This is called transpiration. This loss of water from the leaf causes a vacuum like effect in the xyum tubes of the plant and more water is drawn up the tubes to replace that which has been lost from the leaf surface. More water is drawn out of the xylem cells inside the leaf to replace what's lost. The xylem cells make a continuous tube from the leaf, down the stem to the roots. The roots absorb the water by osmosis which them moves into the plant and up the xylum cells. To understand this process in simple terms it is like someone sucking on a straw i.e. the sucking force draws water up the straw in the same way as the loos of water from the leaves pulls water up the plant stem. Continued on next page. When water is scare plants will begin to wilt. This reaction allows the plant to reduce water loss from the leaf surface as it reduces the size of the tiny holes (stomata) in the leaf surface. Factors that affect transpiration rates in plants Factor Effect Why Light In bright light transpiration increases The stomata (openings in the leaf) open wider to allow more carbon dioxide into the leaf for photosynthesis Temperature Transpiration becomes faster as the temperature increases Evaporation and diffusion are faster at higher temperatures as water is lost from the leaf more quickly (like washing dries quickly in hot weather) Wind Transpiration is faster in windy conditions Water vapour is removed quickly by air movement, speeding up the diffusion water vapour out of the leaf (like washing dries quickly in windy weather) Humidity Transpiration is slower in humid conditions Diffusion of water vapour out of the leaf slows down as the leaf is surrounded by moist air which cannot absorb the moisture from the leaf. A diagrammatic explanation of transpiration in the plant Fromhttps://beckyboop.wordpress.com/2011/03/22/planttranspiration-lesson-plan/ What does this tell us? It tells us that plants with leaves lose water quickly (this is the main reason why deciduous trees are planted in the winter when they have lost their leaves). It also tells us the plants must lose water to cool themselves in hot weather and to ensure a flow of nutrients around the plant. Therefore, when establish plants it is vital they are kept wellwatered. The processes of respiration and photosynthesis and why they might affect planting operations. Photosynthesis Photosynthesis is a process used by plants in which energy from sunlight is used to convert carbon dioxide and water into molecules needed for growth. These molecules include sugars, enzymes and chlorophyll. Light energy is absorbed by a green chemical found in plant leaves (chlorophyll). This energy allows the production of glucose by the reaction between carbon dioxide and water. Oxygen is also produced as a waste product. This reaction can be summarised in the word equation: Carbon dioxide + water glucose + oxygen Note photosynthesis only takes play in daylight Respiration Respiration is the process of releasing energy from the breakdown of glucose (sugars etc.) this releases carbon dioxide. Respiration takes place constantly in every living cell and all cells need to respire in order to produce the energy that they require. Aerobic respiration occurs in plants as oxygen enters plant cells through the stomata. Plants produce their food via photosynthesis and release energy from it through the process of respiration. For respiration to take lace plants need oxygen they obtain some of this via their roots in the soil. If the soil becomes water logged this can reduce oxygen available to the plant and impact on respiration. Note respiration takes place in daylight and in darkness. Soil pH- what is pH, why is it important and how to test for it. What is soil pH? Soil pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline a material is. The pH scale runs form 0 acid to 14 alkaline, with 7 being neutral. Why is soil pH so important? Soil pH affects the ability of plants to take up of nutrients from the soil, excessive soil acidity or alkalinity may need to be treated to bring it into the required range. For most plants this is 5.5 to 6.5. The chart below shows how soil pH affects nutrient availability (the thinner the colour the less the nutrient is available to the plant. Note how at a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 most nutrient are freely available to the plant. Also note how below 6 the plant finds it harder to extract phosphorus from the soil. Some plants have adapted to grow in very low or high pH soils. Most including most grasses do best in a soil with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Materials used to raise soil pH are known as limes. The amount of lime required will depend on the following a. The present soil pH (the lower the pH the more lime it will take to raise it. b. Soil texture (sand, clay etc.) and buffering capacity of the soil (resistance to being raised in pH). c. Effectiveness of the liming material used (its neutralizing value). Soil texture and lime requirements The soil texture affects the amount of lime required to raise pH. It is more difficult to raise the pH of a clay soil than that of a sandy soil. This is due to the clays greater buffering ability (resistance to change). This is because clay soil has far more particles per gram of material that sand and each of the particles must be altered. You might think of this are like trying to paint the contents of a box full of footballs and a same sized box of marbles. Materials that can used to raise soil pH Materials that can used to lower soil pH Burnt magnesium limestone Sulphur (available as Flowers of sulphur, sulphur chips etc.) Aluminium sulphate Ferrous sulphate (sulphate of iron) Calcareous shell sand Dolomitic lime stone Ground chalk Ground lime stone Ground magnesium limestone Hydrated lime Screened chalk Nutrient locking At certain points of the soil pH range particular nutrients are locked onto the soil surface. Plants will struggle to obtain the food they require and will not grow to their best ability. The application of fertilisers will not help as they in turn will become “locked” onto the soil particles. During soil preparation soil pH can be checked and if required adjusted. Changing the Soil pH When preparing sites for planting soil pH can be checked and if required adjusted. The best pH for plant growth is between 5.5 and 6.5. Changing soil pH is very difficult and should only be attempted after expert advice. Never attempt to alter the pH of an area of growing turf as sudden changes in soil pH can severely affect the growing plants. Materials used to raise soil pH are known as “limes” the most common of these are Ground Chalk, Ground limestone and Ground Magnesium limestone. These will need to be added to the soil surface and then worked into the top 15cm. The amounts required can be quite high depending on soil type. The lowering of soil pH is also possible but is extremely complicated and expert advice should be obtained before attempting this task. The most common material used is Flowers of Sulphur. Testing soil pH using a traditional BDH indicator kit To collect soil samples you will need A soil auger to collect soil samples to be tested Polythene bags to place samples in Labels to identify the bags when you return to base Paper and writing implements to note where the samples came from. Method of collecting soil samples 1. Remove turf from surface area and screw auger into How to do the test 1.Mark your test tube at the following points2cm, 4cm, 8cm and 10cm 1. Fill to first mark with soil 2. Fill to second mark with Barium sulphate. 3. Fill to third mark with Distilled water 4. Fill to the fourth line with indicator solution. 5. Place a bung in the end of the tub and shake for at least 5 minuets 6. Place in test tube rack to settle for 5 minutes soil the full depth of the screw. 2. Using the power of your legs (to avoid back strain) lift the auger from the soil 3. Collect the soil from the auger by wrapping the polythene bag over the end and pulling off soil. Do not touch the soil as your skin might affect the pH reading later on 4. Ensure you take several samples from the area in a large W shape 5. Label the bag and make a note of the collection point. 6. Return to base and carry out the test 7. Compare the colour of the water in the tube with that on the colour card, then read off the pH, To carry out the test you will need a. Test tubes and a rack to stand them in b. A ruler and a marker pen and a spatula c. A colour indicator card d. Distilled water (which has a neutral pH) do not use tap water. e. Barium sulphate - this material ensures the soil settles quickly to the bottom of the test tube f. Indicator solution - this will dye the water different colours according to the soil Below reading the pH of a test soil. The colour of water is compared to a colour chart that indicates to pH of the soil left a simple electric pH tester The equipment which will be necessary for establishing plants A whole range of equipment hay be required depending on the size of the site However, the basic equipment might include 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. Soil cultivation equipment – spades, forks, hand trowels etc. Soil levelling equipment – rakes, shovels, etc. Tree stakes, tree ties and rabbit guards Hose pipes to water plants Sprinklers to water seeded areas GUR signs Protective rope and stakes (to rope off newly seeded or turfed areas) Fertiliser applicators Boards for turfing Mulch to put over the soil and keep roots moist Methods of maintaining and storing equipment used in planting operations When equipment fails to work on site it can result in serious delays therefore workers should check it is ready for use before they leave the depot. Examples might be carrying out prestart checks to machines such as checking oil, fuel, grease, that the machine starts. Handles on tools like rakes and spades should be checked for cracks etc. After work all equipment should be cleaned to remove soil etc. and if required dried to avoid corrosion problems. Bare metal surfaces e.g. spades can be lightly oiled to prevent rusting etc. Keeping equipment clean will also make future work easier as a clean spade is 40% easier to use than one with dried on mud covering it. All tools and equipment must be stored in a secure, dry place where it does not present a trip hazard and is ready for next use. Any chemicals used must be stored in suitable conditions e.g. fertiliser in a cool, dry place away from fuel or fires. Describe the safe use of equipment when planting. When using tools feet and hands should be protected by steel toe-capped boots and leather gloves. If using post rammers etc. then protective helmets should be worn. Equipment on site must be placed carefully so it is not a trip hazard or danger to others (despite the old joke rakes are a real hazard if left on the ground) How to handle and transport plants in a way which minimises damage and maintains their health. It is important that no damage occurs to plants during transport. When plants are taken over longer distances, care should be taken to prevent drying out or stress by ensuring that they are protected from wind damage (e.g. by plastic sheeting etc.). Trees and shrubs should always be carried by the thickest party of the stem or better still by the container they are growing in. Plants should never be dragged along the floor which might damage the roots or stem leading to growth problems. Also when carrying trees, the braches should face backwards – that way they will not snag on any obstacles and break off Bare roots should be covered to prevent the roots drying out which will severely affect the survival chances of the plant Left – root wrapped trees, the wrapping will keep the roots moist until planting Seeds should be kept dry as if they become damp they will begin to germinate. Also bags of seed must be transported carefully to avoid damage to the bag which might result in loss of the contents. Types of fertiliser formulations used when establishing plants and the benefits of each Liquid feeds- the fertiliser is in a liquid form and is applied to the soil around the plant. Benefits- works into soil quickly and becomes available to the plant in a short time and easily applied Foliar feeds- the fertiliser is in a liquid form and is applied to the plant leaves where it is absorbed directly into the plant Benefits- Instantly available to the plant. Note- Foliar feeds should not be applied in bright sunlight because the foliage may be scorched. Quick release fertiliser – may be in powder, granular or prilled form, applied to the soil Benefits - becomes available to the plant in a short time Take care to avoid leaf contact, which can cause scorching Controlled release fertiliser - may be in granular or prilled form Benefits -applied to the soil it is designed to breakdown and release its nutrients slowly and so feed the plant over a long time (good when planting trees and shrubs) Take care to avoid leaf contact, which can cause scorching Base dressing – This is the incorporation of fertiliser into the soil or potting compost before sowing or planting. Benefits– the fertiliser is near to the roots and so reaches the plant quickly Top dressing- This is the application of quick-acting fertilisers to the soil surface around the plant. Benefits- Good for general all round feeding of plants. Take care to avoid leaf contact, which can cause scorching Different types of backfill materials relevant to different types of plants and situations Backfill is material that is added to the soil removed from the planting hole. Sometimes the local soil may be so poor that some of it will be removed and replaced with a material that will improve it. During the planting of trees and shrubs it may be appropriate to add organic matter to the soil. The most commonly used organic matter is farmyard manure for ornamental or decorative areas. This material not only supplies some nutrients but also assists in moisture retention and maintaining a soil structure. Possible back fill materials to replace or improve the existing soil dug out of the planting hole Well-rotted farm yard manure- adds nutrients Compost – helps the soil hold water and adds nutrients Sand- helps improve drainage of soil around the plant Gravel- helps improve drainage of soil around the plant Leaf mould (rooted leaves) helps the soil hold water and adds nutrients The importance of planting seeds and or plants to the correct depth and position. Plants must be placed in the ground correctly if planted to shallow the roots may be exposed to the drying wind and sun. If planted to deeply the stem of the plant may rot in the wet soil. Seeds that are raked too deeply into the surface may not have enough energy to make it the surface leading to poor germination. Likewise, if left on the surface and not raked lightly in they could be blown around by the wind. Tree planted to shallow leaving the roots exposed Methods of providing aftercare to newly established plants Weeding- With trees and shrubs, it is important to ensure that no vegetation encroaches around the base, as weeds would be competition for water and nutrients. Irrigation may be necessary to ensure that the roots become established and the plant continues to grow. This is especially important with larger trees, which may need water for some considerable time after planting. Any ties, supports or protection should be checked regularly to ensure that there is no damage to the plant. Provision of water Plants need water to survive and establish. With large trees etc. his can be done using a drip pipe or by inserting pipes into the planting hole by which water can be added to the soils surrounding plant. Mulching This is the application of materials on the soil around the base of plants. Depending on materials used to mulch the soil the advantages can be a. Helps keep the soil moist b. Helps keep reduce weeds c. Feeds the plant (if a mulch like well-rotted farm yard manure is used) Some materials that can be used for mulching a. Plastic much mats b. Wood chips (see image right of wood chips used to mulch base or a tree) c. Well -rotted compost or manure d. Mushroom compost e. Gravel, stone chippings etc. Spraying of anti-desiccants These are chemicals that coat the leaves of plants and form a layer that slows down the loss of water from the leaf. They are often used when establishing evergreen plants Adding of nutrients There are a large number of nutrients required by plants, and different plants require differing amounts of each nutrient. In most soils, the main nutrients required by plants are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Where a soil has been regularly cultivated and fertilised previously, there are unlikely to be deficiencies but it is beneficial to the establishment of plants to ensure that these main nutrients are readily available. Nitrogen is the main growth stimulant and can be applied in various forms – ammonium sulphate, granular ammonium nitrate or organic sources such as urea. Ammonium sulphate is the most commonly used. Phosphorus is generally used by the plants for root growth and is considered desirable to assist in establishing plants or seeds. Regular use can however cause detrimental effects especially on turf. The most common source is superphosphate. Potassium is also considered desirable in the establishment of plants and seeds and is usually applied as potassium sulphate. Potassium plays a part in disease resistance. There are many other nutrients required by plants but deficiencies are rare especially where cultivations have been done before. A number of specialised plants may be susceptible to deficiency of minor nutrients. Protection of plants and support for plants Trees and other large plants may need staking to protect them from the wind and other damage. If stakes are used its vital quality tree ties are used to avoid damage to the tree. Other forms of protection might be the use of tree tubes to protect plants from attacks by rabbits etc. Tree stakes should be placed on correctly i.e. the tree should not rub on the stake. Protection of plants and support for plants Trees and other large plants may need staking to protect them from the wind and other damage. If stakes are used its vital quality tree ties are used to avoid damage to the tree (see image left) Other forms of protection might the use of tree tubes (image below right) to protect plants from attacks by rabbits etc. Tree stakes should be placed correctly i.e. the tree should not rub on the stake (image below left) tree tie with spacer used to ensure tree does not run on the supporting stake Diagram showing the basics of a correctly Planted Tree Tie and spacer used to hold tree to stake and prevent tree rubbing on stake Tree guard to prevent damage to base of tree by rabbits and strimmers Section of landflex drainage pipe inserted into planting hole to act as a watering point (makes it easy to get water through the mulch to the roots where it is needed) Initial pruning or cutting Tree stake on windward side of tree to help prevent rubbing 10cm (4 inch) of mulch (wood chip etc.) laid over the soil around the tree to suppress weeds and retain moisture Planting hole, dug to two times the width and one and half times the size of the root ball to ensure roots have suitable soil to establish in. Bottom of hole has been dug over with a fork to encourage roots to grow down and improve drainage. Soil improving materials such as peat or well-rotted compost etc. can be added if required Care of newly planted trees and shrubs After planting the plant (tree, shrub etc.) should be inspected to see if any initial pruning is needed. This should in the first few months of growth. Concentrate on removing diseased, damaged or badly positioned growth so the plant grows into the desired shape. Removing growth when the plant is larger results in larger wounds on the plant and increased risk of disease etc. Care of newly seeded areas Newly seeded grass areas should be allowed to establish to a height of C25mm before the first cut. Before the first cut stone picking may be required. Newly seeded areas should be kept moist and rope off to prevent people walking over the area and damaging the new plants. The first cut should not remove more than 1/3 of the grass length. The aim will then to be slowly lower the height of cut over a period of time until the required height is reached. Types of records required and the importance of accurate record keeping of planting operations It is important to keep records of plating operations (date etc.), so if anything goes wrong with the plantings it is possible to look at timings etc. and see if there are any reasons that can be identified. Also if plants need to be replaced, knowing the type will make replacement easier. Normal records might include type of plant (name of genus and species), date planted and location. In addition, delivery notes from the nursey supplier and any stock records used by the club. How sites can be damaged during ground preparations While establish plants it is possible to damage the site being worked on, the most common types of damage are 1. Damage to soil structure- caused by; Working soils when they are very wet, this smears the soil structure affecting drainage. Working soils when very dry - this can lead to the soil structure being broken down which will result in poor drainage and increased chance of compaction and surface capping. 2. Compaction of soil- cause- driving heavy machines over the prepared site. 3. Damage to underground services while cultivating the soil by hand or by machine - prevent by checking site plans etc. 4. Damage to the environment- prevent by a. ensuring you do not drive over sites with wildlife present i.e. think about the best route to use to avoid nesting sites etc. b. Taking care when using chemicals, fertiliser etc. near to streams and ponds etc. c. Not spraying pesticides in windy weather (risk of drift) d. Careful disposal of waste How and why should waste be avoided? Why - Because waste is expensive (costs the company money) HowWaste from the operation of ground clearance a. Soft vegetation - weeds etc. removed from the site can be composted (stored somewhere outside to rot) after a year or so this compost can be recycled by being dug into the soil. b. Hard vegetation -woody material can be shredded to reduce its bulk which makes it easier to dispose of. Avoiding wasting materials used to prepare ground. Avoiding wasting materials such as fertiliser etc. can be achieved by a. Ensuring they are protected from the rain which will damage them b. Ensuring the label is read and only the required amounts are used c. Ensuring that if they are applied by machine the machine is calibrated and applies the correct amount. Correct methods of dealing with accidental damage and pollution. What action should you take if you cause chemical spillage or pollution? 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Apply an absorbent material (such as sand or soil) to the spillage. If required put on PPE Collect the material and place it into a plastic bag, seal the end and label it. place the bag in a safe place (i.e. your chemical store) Report the matter to you line manager Note: if the spillage has got into a water source i.e. stream, pond etc. then you must report the matter immediately to your line manager or the Environmental Protection Agency (find the number in the yellow pages). Pollution of water is a very serious matter.