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4
ELECTRICAL
Supplies
CHAPTER FOUR:
• LIGHTING FIXTURES
• ELECTRIC MOTORS
• LIGHT BULBS
• WIRE AND CABLE
• CORDS
• WIRING DEVICES
• BATTERIES
• TELEPHONES & ACCESSORIES
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
ELECTRICAL
Supplies
■ The consumer trend in the electrical category is shifting toward
higher-end products that have
model variety and energy-saving
features. Energy-efficient lighting
products are finally beginning to
catch on with consumers.
Another key trend in the category is increased demand for lowvoltage outdoor lighting. Motion-sensor lights are popular with
consumers concerned about home security.
Many consumers are scared of electrical projects, and for valid
reasons. Retailers should remind consumers of the dangers posed
by household electrical systems. For example, tell consumers to
shut off electrical power at the fuse or circuit breaker box before
beginning any wiring project. And make sure they consult local
building codes before embarking on an electrical project.
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
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ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
LIGHTING
FIXTURES
■ INTERIOR LIGHTING
way to provide ambient lighting. Increased
amounts of light are achieved using additional fixtures. This should be strictly
observed because of the heat produced.
Maximum wattage limitations are indicated on all fixtures and should be followed.
Recessed lighting is good for rooms with
low ceilings and can be used to supplement existing light in kitchens and bathrooms.
No-glare lighting is also available in
overhead fixtures, undercabinet lights and
desk lamps. No-glare lighting fixtures are
designed with a louver that cuts off highangle light to provide glare-free, truecolour lighting. No-glare lighting works
well to prevent eye fatigue in home offices
where computers are used. For more information, see (Installing Wall or
nent fixtures. Track lighting is also applicable.
Place light sources at various heights
within the room to add visual interest. Use
translucent shades on table lamps to contribute to the ambient light level. Use a
halogen, floor-mounted directional fixture
under a large plant to create an artistic
pattern on the ceiling.
A room larger than 225 sq. ft. will
require separately controlled wall lights
along two walls or multiple ceiling fixtures
rather than a single light source.
Interior lighting must satisfy two
requirements: function and design. A customer replacing an existing fixture will be
concerned mainly with the design, whereas a person remodeling or adding a room
may be concerned with both function and
design. Along with design and function,
many customers are becoming more concerned about conserving energy. Lighting
takes only 12 percent to 15 percent of the
Bedrooms
electricity used in a home. Customers are
Bedrooms under 150 sq. ft. use a total of
finding ways to reduce this expense by
120 to 200 watts in a ceiling fixture, 4' to
using more efficient lighting and
9' of wall lighting or one 150-watt recessed
advanced lighting controls.
fixture. Over 150 sq. ft. use 120 to 200
Ceiling Fixtures)
Task lighting gives localized light for
watts in a ceiling fixture, 12' to 16' of wall
specific activities such as reading, writing,
The following guidelines suggest lightlighting, or five to eight 20- to 75-watt
sewing and food preparation. The light
ing standards for various rooms.
reflector bulbs.
should cover the entire task area and be
For closets, use a 40- to 60-watt fixture
located so shadows are reduced to a miniLiving Areas
and 60 to 100 watts in walk-in closets.
mum. Under-cabinet lighting is a popular
Permanent lighting fixtures are not a
These should be ceiling mounted at least
form of task lighting in kitchens or under
major consideration here because so many
18" from clothing or stored items, or use a
shelves.
homes depend on table or floor lamps.
20-watt fluorescent above the door header.
General or ambient lighting provides
Wall lighting (fluorescent tubes shielded
comfortable background brightness in a
by a cornice or valance) and recessed
Bathrooms
room. Light reflected from walls and ceildown lights are frequently used permaOverall lighting should consist of at
ings or from large sources overleast one recessed 75-watt unit
GENERAL LIGHTING SUGGESTIONS
head reduces lighting contrasts
for each curtained tub or shower
and contributes to the comfort
area. If the lavatory counter is
Here are a few general guidelines to help consumers begin their planning.
of the environment.
wider than 3', overhead fluoresThe light sources, lighting fixtures and construction of the home, as well as
the materials and colors of the furnishings, will affect the lighting plan.
Accent or specialty lighting
cent tubes should be installed
creates a mood and adds interest
along the entire length of the
INCANDESCENT BULBS
to a room. This kind of lighting
counter in a soffit extending at
14, 15 watts—Use in multiple-socket hallway fixtures, small decorative
is primarily for decorative effects
least 18" from the wall. Smaller
wall and table lamps, recessed aisle or step lights.
and should be used in conjunclavatory areas need 20-watt fluo40, 55, 60 watts—Wall fixtures and sconces, multiple-socket ceiling
tion with task and general lightrescent tubes mounted on either
fixtures and floor or table lamps, pole and tree lamps, recessed shower
ing. Track lights, a system of
side of the mirror and centered
lights, single- and multiple-socket bathroom mirror fixtures.
movable lights wired to a metal
60" from the floor.
70, 75, 95, 100 watts—Ceiling, wall and pendant fixtures.
track, make a great accent lightA ceiling fixture over the lava150, 200 watts—Single-socket ceiling fixtures; floor, table and desk
lamps where three-way flexibility is not desired.
ing choice for living rooms, bedtory mirror can provide extra
170, 250 watts—Portable table, floor and desk lamps with singlerooms and dining rooms. Track
light.
setting sockets.
lighting is available in many colors, sizes and shapes, is easy to
Kitchens
THREE-WAY BULBS
install and flexible since the
Every 50 sq. ft. of floor space
30, 70, 100 watts—Portable dresser, table and hanging wall lamps.
lights can be moved around and
needs about 150 watts of incan50, 100, 150 watts—Floor, desk, table, double-dresser portable lamps.
repositioned.
descent or 50 watts of fluores100, 200, 300 watts—Large floor lamps with mogul (large) sockets.
Recessed can lighting and surcent light from a ceiling fixture.
face-mounted fixtures are one
Additional fixtures should be
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
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ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
installed over sinks, work areas, etc. A 20watt fluorescent tube, mounted under cabinets above the countertop, is considered
adequate for every 3' of counter space to
be lighted. Light the sink area using
recessed halogen or fluorescent valance
lighting. Fluorescent strip lights can be
concealed above cabinets to provide soft,
indirect illumination. Suspend decorative
pendant lighting with compact fluorescent
globes over the table or island for visual
interest and energy savings.
Dining Areas
A single ceiling fixture or hanging lamp
with at least 150 watts of incandescent
lighting will usually suffice for an average
dining area. However, layering with light
from a variety of sources will provide flexibility for creating different moods. The
best choice is to install a dimmer switch to
control light levels. Chandeliers with open
sockets should contain decorative bulbs.
When using down lighting over the dining room table, be careful not to create
dark shadows that might be unbecoming
to guests. Halogen directional bulbs can be
used in adjustable accent lights to highlight plants, artwork or special furnishings. In addition, china cabinets can be
lighted from within with small halogen or
miniature fluorescent bulbs.
Recreation Areas
Relatively even lighting throughout the
room can be accomplished with one
recessed incandescent box, with a 100watt bulb for every 40 sq. ft. The number
of fixtures can be reduced by using fluorescent tubes, which produce as much as
four times the light of incandescents.
Hallways
Use ceiling-mounted fixtures with 75 to
100 watts for every 10' of hall or one
recessed fixture with 75 to 100 watts for
every 8'. Locate fixtures near closets or
powder rooms. For halls that need light all
day, recommend fluorescent fixtures; this
saves energy and reduces bulb replacement. Wall sconces can add a warm, welcoming touch to a foyer. Place wall or ceil-
ing-mounted lights and switches at the
top and bottom of stairs for safety.
Laundry Areas
Center a diffusing fixture with 60 to 80
watts of fluorescent or 120 to 150 watts of
incandescent light over appliances.
■ OUTDOOR LIGHTING
Outdoor lighting primarily serves a
security function. There are four basic
types of outdoor lighting: area, motion,
landscape and entrance/exit lighting.
There are a wide variety of systems for
outdoor lighting, including: high–intensity discharge (HID) systems for mercury,
metal halide and high–pressure sodium
light sources; incandescent and tungsten
halogen fixtures; low-voltage lighting systems; and incandescent or halogen PAR
spotlights and floodlights.
HID lighting provides considerably
greater illumination than other lighting
commonly available. Its cost is also higher,
although operating costs for lumens output is generally less. Lumens are the measurement of light output. Locate fixtures at
both ends of the house for better spread of
light over the entire yard. Many outdoor
lighting units are equipped with a photoelectric cell to turn the fixture on at sunset
and off at sunrise. Timers are also available
for outdoor units.
Fixtures to be used outdoors must seal
moisture and dust from wiring and switches. Photocells provide automatic activation
from dusk to dawn.
Brass, aluminum, copper and baked-finish metals as well as non-metallic products
will withstand extremes of outdoor exposure best and offer long product life.
Outdoor lighting options have expanded with the advent of low-voltage lighting.
A low-voltage system of six fixtures, for
example, usually uses less electricity than
a 60-watt bulb. It makes maximum use of
electricity by splitting the light source.
A power pack is the heart of the lowvoltage system and should be located outdoors by installing a weatherproof outlet
cover to keep snow and rain out. Because
of the low voltage, users will not receive
an electric shock even if they touch the
bare wires or cut a buried cable with a garden tool. Consequently, these systems are
harmless to children and pets and do not
require cables to be buried. Power packs
typically range from 88-watt capacity up
to 900-watt capacity.
To determine which transformer you
will need, add up the wattage of all the
lamps you plan to use—otherwise known
as the total nominal wattage (TNW). The
total load wattage of the lamps should not
be less than half of the transformer’s TNW
or volt-amperes (VA) rating, nor should it
exceed the transformer’s maximum capacity. If the TNW is too high, divide the electrical load between two transformers, or
use a more powerful one.
The first fixture should be installed at
least 1' above the ground and at least 10'
from the power pack. Low-voltage cable
transmits the electricity through a weather-resistant, self-sealing stranded copper
wire between 12-gauge and 18-gauge. On
runs over 150' or when 10 or more lamps
are connected to one line, consider using
heavier cable (12- or 14-gauge), which
reduces voltage drop and produces greater
efficiency from the lamps. A cable connector is used to quickly join separate cable
lengths or to split cables going different
directions.
The low-voltage lamp can be one of several types. Bayonet base lamps feature a
copper base that twists into the fixture
socket, while the wedge base lamp plugs
into the socket. Halogen lamps provide
the most energy efficiency. Remote photo
control automatically turns lights on at
dark and off during daylight hours. For
more information, see (Installing
Outdoor Wiring/Lighting).
Area Lighting
Spot and floodlights, along with traditional yard and security lighting, are used
as decorative lighting for landscaping,
architecture or holiday decorations.
Coloured lenses can enhance different features; a green lens, for example, will
brighten foliage while detracting from reddish objects.
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
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ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
Weatherproof sockets are essential here
because the fixture is often mounted near
the ground and pointed upward, exposing
the socket opening to rain and dirt. Most
outdoor lighting fixtures should be
installed only when the ground is completely dry, although low-voltage systems
can often be installed anytime. Always
consult the manufacturer’s instructions.
Well lights are designed to be buried,
and they cast light upward to create special effects—for example, highlighting
landscaping.
Motion Lighting
WHERE TO USE BULBS
SPECIAL-PURPOSE BULBS
TYPE AND WATTAGE
WHERE TO USE
Reflector Bulbs (2-1/2" dia.)
Pole and tree lamps. Track lighting and recessed downlights
(cans).
Reflector Floods (3-3/4" dia.)
Track lighting and recessed downlights (cans).
Reflector Spots (3-3/4" dia.)
Track lighting and recessed downlighting (cans).
Reflector Floods (5" dia.)
Track lighting and recessed downlights (cans).
Reflector Spots (5" dia.)
Track lighting and recessed downlighting (cans).
Floodlight Bulbs (4-3/4" dia.)
Exposed weatherproof sockets under eaves, on garages,
porches and other outdoor locations. Bullet-shaped outdoor
floodlight fixtures.
Bug Lights (yellow coating)
In fixtures on patios, porches and entrances to houses.
Post Light Bulbs
For post lights and coach lanterns.
Plant Lights
Special colour bulb finish enhances plant appearance,
helps growth.
Rough Service
Workshop, utility area, garage. Usually used on “trouble
light” extension cord.
High-Intensity Bulbs
Replacement bulbs for high-intensity portable lamps, they
provide supplementary lighting for sewing, manicuring,
hobby work and other close-up tasks.
Night Lights
Use in plug-in fixtures in bedrooms, bathrooms and hallways.
Motion sensors are popular accessories
to low-voltage outdoor lighting. They
attach to a power pack and mount on
walls or fences 6’ to 8' above the ground.
By detecting heat and motion up to 40'
away, they can cover 600 sq. ft. of property to guard against intrusion.
Motion sensors are used with incandescent, halogen and fluorescent bulbs. When
used in combination with a switch, the
user can manually switch on the motion
detector light.
Indoor motion sensors are also available
that automatically turn on a light when
someone enters a room.
Always check the fixture for required diameter and wattage limitations before recommending any of
these bulbs. In general, floods are used for wide area lighting, spots are used for accent lighting.
Landscape Lighting
FLUORESCENT BULBS
Landscape lighting is designed to accent
or light steps and pathways. It also serves
a decorative function and is relatively easy
to install. Advise customers not to hook
up landscape lighting with extension
cords, which are for temporary use only.
Mushroom lights, named for their
sloped shades, are commonly used along
pathways or in gardens. The bulb ranges
from 5 watts to 60 watts, and light is
reflected downward to give a soft illumination to the immediate area near the fixture. Opaque, tiered lens attachments
shield light from the eyes and direct it
downward.
Bollard lights are cylindrical in shape,
with the faceted lens being part of that
cylinder. The lens diffuses light in a 360°
pattern to create a soft glow. Lens shields
can limit lighting to a 180° range.
TYPE AND WATTAGE
Garage Door Opener Bulb
Built to take shock and vibration.
Appliance Bulbs
For ovens, refrigerators, freezers, microwaves, saunas and
range hoods.
Showcase Tubular Bulbs
Approximately 6” long, frosted and clear. Use for picture
lights, piano lights, aquariums, range hoods. Regular (medium) base.
WHERE TO USE
Cool White
Use for work areas only.
Warm White
Good for living areas. Will harmonize with incandescent lighting. Not for use where colour discrimination is important.
Soft White
The recommended fluorescent for living areas, baths,
kitchens. Good colour rendering. Harmonizes with incandescent lighting.
Different wattage tubes are different lengths. It is important to purchase the right length tube to fit
the desired fixture. Fluorescent tubes come in a variety of “white” colours. Use these guidelines to
select the correct “white” tube for your use.
SOURCE: GE LIGHTING
Globe lights have spherical lenses, so
they cast light in all directions, providing
subtle illumination that can cover a large
area without glare. They are often used
around outdoor living areas.
Deck lights are designed to fit under
steps, benches and railings. They can be
mounted in many other ways as well.
Many other kinds of fixtures are also made
to be recessed into steps or planters to
directly illuminate pathways.
What follows are some common lighting techniques used in landscape lighting.
Down lighting—shines light down from
large trees or eaves onto surfaces below
the light source to create safer passageways
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ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
at night. Down lighting is used to outline
driveways and walkways, mark garden
paths and flowerbeds, and to accent patios
and decks.
Uplighting—places fixtures in the
ground and directs light upward to create
a dramatic focal point that accentuates the
detail in a trellis or archway, illuminates
fountains and statuary or highlights small
trees and shrubs.
Front lighting—positions light sources
in front of an object to highlight important features and details.
Back lighting—illuminates objects or
plants from the back to highlight architectural features and eliminates darkened
areas behind large bushes and around
doors and windows for security purposes.
Area lighting—uses a floodlight or
another source of wide light to illuminate
large areas for evening entertaining.
Safety lighting—provides light for certain areas, such as paths or steps, so people can navigate safely.
Also available are landscape boulders
that blend naturally into the environment
and glow from within, casting illumination for pathways. The faux boulders contain low-voltage lamps and components
that are easy to wire, can be installed on
their own system or added to an existing
low-voltage system.
Entrance/Exit Lighting
Light each entrance to illuminate the
door and to identify callers clearly.
Recommend wall lanterns, 25 watts to 60
watts, on each side of the front door, centered 66" above standing level.
For secondary entrances, recommend a
single fixture on the latch side of the door.
Lanterns with concealed downlights light
up wall-mounted house numbers as well as
the lock.
Suspended or over-door lanterns should
allow the light to flow downward. Wallmounted lanterns above doors should
accommodate 75 watts to 100 watts;
lanterns suspended from a ceiling 100
watts to 150 watts. With shallow, close-toceiling fixtures for a porch, recommend 60
watts to 100 watts.
Exit or emergency signs are used to
identify exit areas in commercial buildings. Internally lighted models are the
most common.
Originally, only clear glass was used to
make incandescent bulbs, which left the
bright filament exposed and resulted in a
harsh, glaring light. To remedy this, special finishes are used to reduce the glare
by diffusing the light.
Clear glass is still used in applications
where accurate light control is desired and
in decorative lighting.
A frosted finish used to be the most
common. Light loss averages less than 0.5
percent due to the frosted finish.
Today, light diffusion is usually accomplished by applying a coating of fine powder to the inside surface of the bulb. This
coating provides a softer, more even distribution of light and reduces glare. Insidecoated bulbs are made in colours as well as
white. A variety of colours are available in
outside-coated bulbs which can be either
transparent or translucent.
Bulbs can be made to direct the light by
applying a reflecting material to the inside
surface of the bulb, or in the case of R,
PAR and sealed beam, light can also be
directed by beveled cuts on the surface of
the bulb.
bulb used for lower-wattage bulbs from
about 15 watts to 200 watts. This type is
normally used for home lighting.
Vibration service is used on machinery
or where continuous vibration could cause
early failure of the filament. These bulbs
have lower lighting efficiency.
Rough service bulbs withstand shocks
and bumps. The relatively long filament is
securely mounted with many supports but
has a lower efficiency than general and
vibration service bulbs. They are used in
workshops and garages and with trouble
lights.
Appliance bulbs are for ovens, refrigerators, freezers, microwave ovens and range
hoods.
Special coated bulbs are covered with a
Teflon™ or silicon protective material to
prevent shattering and to resist breakage
upon contact with water. They are recommended for use in trouble lights and outdoor fixtures.
Decorative bulbs with clear or coated
flame-shaped glass, smooth B-type glass,
C-line glass with bent tip bulbs and globeshaped bulbs are useful in chandeliers and
wall bracket fixtures where fashion is
important.
Reflector® bulbs are usually made of
“soft” glass for indoor service as a directional light source with a built-in reflector.
These are available as spot or floodlights.
Projector (PAR) bulbs are made of hard
heat-resistant glass molded into a reflector
and lens that are sealed together. Most are
weather-resistant.
Elliptical reflector bulbs are shaped differently than the parabolic reflector bulbs,
bringing light to a focus a couple of inches
in front of the bulb. Less light is wasted in
deep-baffle fixtures, and glare is reduced
in downlight fixtures.
General Classes of Light Bulbs
Light Bulb Bases
Bulbs come in a variety of shapes, sizes
and designs, each with a different purpose.
Bulb shapes have letter codes that correspond to a general guideline. For example,
"C" refers to cone-shaped bulbs and "T" to
tubular bulbs.
General service is the Type A (arbitrary)
Light bulbs come with a variety of bases
for use in different fixtures. The following
are the most commonly used base types:
Candelabra is a screw base used for specialty chandeliers and decorative lighting.
It is the smallest base for 120V lamps.
Intermediate is a screw base with appli-
LIGHT
BULBS
There are three main types of light
bulbs: incandescent, fluorescent and highintensity discharge (HID). Generally, the
higher the wattage, the greater the light
output.
Bulb Finishes
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ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
cations similar to the candelabra bulb.
Medium is a screw base, standard on
most general-service bulbs of 300 watts
and under. It has a high degree of interchangeability in bulb applications.
Mogul bases are used for larger, heavyduty bulbs rated at 300 watts and higher.
Skirted screw base is used on bulbs where
the neck is too large to fit into the desired
size base or where additional space between
filament and bulb terminals is desired.
LIGHT BULB BASES
Three-contact bases are used for threeway bulbs that contain two separate filaments in one bulb. They are similar to
other screw bases, but use an extra ring
contact to light wattage filaments separately or in combination for three light
levels.
Bayonet bases are used on specialty
lamps such as vacuum cleaners, sewing
machines and low-voltage bulbs. It provides a more secure contact by using two
small protruding pins on the sides of the
base that fit into slots in the socket.
Medium bi-post base is used for highercurrent bulbs.
■ INCANDESCENT BULBS
1
2
3
6
5
7
9
12
4
8
10
13
11
14
Incandescent bulbs produce light by
passing current through a thin coil of wire
called a filament. As the wire heats, it
becomes white hot and emits visible light.
Incandescent bulbs come in two types:
vacuum filled and halogen gas filled.
They are mainly used for general and
task lighting around the house.
Incandescent bulbs offer many advantages: a concentrated light source that is
easy to direct; instant lighting; a wide
assortment of sizes, shapes and colours;
easy maintenance; and low initial cost.
Moreover, incandescent lighting is flexible, particularly since light levels (proportional to wattage) for a given bulb-holder
15
GLASS BULB
1. Single-Contact Bayonet Incandescent Base
2. Candelabra Incandescent Base
Filament
3. Double-Contact Bayonet Incandescent Base
4. Intermediate Incandescent Base
5. Medium Incandescent Base
Support
Wires
Filling
Glass
Button
6. Medium Skirted Incandescent Base
7. Three-Contact Medium Incandescent Base
8. Mogul Incandescent Base
9. Three-Contact Mogul Incandescent Base
10. Circline Florescent Base
Lead-in
Wires
Heat Deflecting
Disc
Stem Press
11. Medium Bi-Pin Fluorescent Base
12. Four-Pin Fluorescent Base
Exhaust
Tube
Fuse
13. Recessed D.C. Fluorescent Base
Base
14. Two-Pin Single-End Fluorescent Base
15. Four-Pin Single-End Fluorescent Base
COMPARING LAMP EFFICIENCIES
LAMP TYPE
LUMENS PER WATT
Incandescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Halogen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
Mercury Vapor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
Fluorescent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
Metal Halide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125
High Pressure Sodium . . . . . . . .140
Low Pressure Sodium . . . . . . . . .200
can be changed simply by using the
desired wattage bulb. However, users
should be careful not to exceed bulb
wattage recommendations for a fixture. A
mercury or fluorescent system is typically
limited to a single bulb size.
An incandescent bulb can operate on
either direct current (DC) or alternating
current (AC). Wattage indicates the
amount of electric power used by a bulb to
produce light. Roughly speaking, the higher the wattage, the greater the light output. Some bulbs, however, produce more
light output per watt than others do.
Standard household bulbs have an average life of 750 to 1,000 hours, which can
be lengthened or shortened by the treatment they receive. For example, a 120V
bulb operating on a 125V circuit may produce more light but won’t last as long as
one on a 120V circuit.
Long-life bulbs, which may last up to
twice as long as ordinary bulbs, have heavier filaments that do not burn out as
quickly. However, these bulbs do not produce as much light as standard bulbs.
Manufacturers disclose average light
output (in lumens) and average bulb life
(in hours) on package labeling.
The filament vaporizes as a result of current flowing through it, and generally, the
bulb “burns out.” Three-way bulbs lose
two light levels when one filament burns
out because two filaments are used in the
bulb separately for two of the levels and
together for the third.
Bulb designations denote size and
shape. The figure following the bulb shape
letter designation is the bulb’s maximum
diameter in eighths of an inch. Thus, A-19
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ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
LIGHT BULB SHAPES
INCANDESCENT SHAPES
“A” Type
R-40
Reflector
Flame
Tubular
PAR-30
Reflector
(indoor)
PAR-30
Reflector
(outdoor)
Bulge Tube
(LT-10)
COMPACT FLUORESCENT SHAPES
Screw Base
Circular Tube
Screw Base
Lamp
Screw Base
Bulb
HID SHAPES
BT
E
would mean an A-shaped bulb with a
diameter of 19 x 1/8", or 2-3/8".
Most standard bulb envelopes are made
of lime glass, but bulbs that must withstand greater heat are made of harder,
heat-resistant glass. Hard-glass envelopes
are used in many high-wattage bulbs and
in bulbs recommended for outdoor use
where there is danger of thermal shock
from condensation.
Incandescent bulbs turn black as they
near the end of their lifetimes. Customers
should consider replacing darkened bulbs,
as they use the same amount of electricity
to produce less light.
■ HALOGEN BULBS
Halogen bulbs are technologically
advanced incandescent bulbs used in resi-
dential and commercial applications. As
with incandescent bulbs, light is produced
by passing current through a coiled tungsten wire, but the tungsten wire is
enclosed in a small quartz or high-temperature glass tube, which is then filled with
gases, including a halogen gas.
The advantages of tungsten halogen
bulbs compared with standard incandescent bulbs include less loss of light over
lamp life; smaller physical size for better
directional light control; whiter, brighter
light; more light per watt; and longer life.
Like incandescents, halogen lights have
the advantage of instant-on light. They are
easy to use with dimmers for energy savings.
Typical halogen lamps last 2,000 to
4,000 hours compared to 500 to 1,000
hours for incandescent lamps. Wattage
levels for home use run from 5 watts to
300 watts.
Halogen bulbs are more energy-efficient
than standard incandescent bulbs. They
generate up to 30 percent more light for
the same electricity. In addition, because
their bulbs blacken much less than incandescents, they stay brighter as they age.
Halogen bulbs are available for accent
and task lighting and for general lighting
applications. Since their brilliant, white
light registers true colours, they are excellent for displays. Shading is important
because of halogen’s intense brightness.
They are available in A-type equivalent
bulbs, PAR spotlights and floodlights in a
variety of sizes, as well as low-voltage
spotlights and floodlights.
Advise customers not to touch the glass
on halogen bulbs.
■ FLUORESCENT BULBS
The two main types of fluorescent bulbs
are tubular and compact fluorescent.
Fluorescent bulbs are used in commercial,
institutional, industrial and residential
lighting. The popularity of the fluorescent
bulb is due to its high efficiency in producing light, resulting in low lighting
energy costs. Fluorescent bulbs produce
up to 105 lumens per watt, compared
with a 100-watt, type A incandescent,
which produces around 18 lumens per
watt.
A fluorescent also has long lamp life,
relatively low brightness and low heat
content and glare compared with incandescent lamps. Fluorescents work well for
area lighting, especially in kitchen, bath
and task areas.
In a fluorescent bulb, current flows
through an atmosphere of inert gas and
mercury vapor, producing ultraviolet energy that is invisible to the human eye. A
phosphor coating on the inside of the
tube transforms the ultraviolet energy
into visible light.
Fluorescent bulbs can vary from straight
tubes 6" to 96" long to U-shaped tubes
and circular tubes. Wattages for home use
range from 4 to 75 watts.
Tubes also come in a variety of diameters. Several common types are available
in reduced-wattage versions that consume
15 percent to 20 percent less energy.
The most common tube is the 1-1/2"
used in most bulbs from 15" to 96" long.
The smallest diameter is 1/2", used in lowwattage twin tube designs. The largest is
2-1/8" used for some high-wattage, nonresidential installations.
Fluorescent bulbs are available in many
shades of white, as well as colours determined by the type of phosphor used in
the bulb. These colours are indicated by
the colour rendering index number printed on the bulb. The higher the number,
the more accurate the colour produced.
Soft white fluorescent bulbs are recommended for living areas, baths and
kitchens since they offer good colour rendering. Warm white bulbs, 3000K and
lower, emphasize reds and yellows and are
good for living areas, although not in
areas where colour discrimination is
important. Cool white bulbs, 4000K and
higher, emphasize blues and greens and
are used for work areas.
There are a few important limits to the
use of fluorescent lamps. Because they use
a ballast, they can be dimmed only with
special equipment that is relatively expensive. Standard household fluorescents are
also sensitive to temperature and there-
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
8
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
GLOSSARY OF ELECTRICAL STANDARDS
CSA International (CSA) and Underwriters’ Laboratory (UL)—are recognised,
approved independent product certification testing authorities. Manufacturers submit
products to CSA and/or UL for evaluation as to meeting the requirements of a standard—typically a CSA or ANSI standard testing. “Listed” by CSA or UL and marked “CSA
or cUL”—means that the merchandise meets minimum safety standards and is suitable
and safe if used for the purpose for which it was intended by the manufacturer.
CSA (Canadian Standards Association)—an independent, “hands off” division of CSA
International—and ANSI (American National Standards Institute) are non-profit organizations that coordinate the voluntary development of Canadian and U.S. national consensus standards. Such consensus-based standards—developed by a “balanced” committee
of general interest, producers, regulators and users—are used voluntarily, becoming
mandatory only when adopted by government laws and regulations.
CEC— Canadian Electrical Code is based on safe and functional wiring methods. The
code is updated at least every five years and provides a framework for electrical codes in
Canada.
Provinces have adopted this code and some have also superimposed a number of more
restrictive or additional requirements. Be sure that you consult with your provincial
and/or local governments to determine the requirements in force in your area.
fore work best indoors. High-output fluorescents are for outdoor use and commercial application.
Ballasts have sound ratings— “A” is the
quietest; “C” is the loudest. If a customer
is complaining about the noise made by
fluorescent bulbs, suggest replacing the
ballast.
The main objection to fluorescents in
the past has been their unflattering
colour. New, colour-corrected tubes overcome this drawback with recent developments in phosphor technology. Premium
types use rare-earth phosphors to offer
superior colour that blends beautifully
with incandescents.
Electrical connections to the bulbs are
made to the bases at each end. The most
common is the two-pin base, designated
miniature bi-pin for small diameter bulbs,
medium bi-pin for average-size bulbs and
the mogul bi-pin for industrial bulbs.
Single-pin bases are used for instant-start
bulbs, and recessed double-contact bases
are used on rapid–start bulbs longer than
48".
Ballast Operation
Because fluorescent lamps are arc discharge devices, they require special auxiliary equipment to provide reliable starting and to assure proper electrical opera-
tion. The principle function of the ballast
is to hold operating current within proper limits and to provide enough voltage
to start the lamp.
Initially, all fluorescent lamps used a
“starter” or time-delay switch, which
allowed the electrodes to heat up prior to
the lamp starting. The starter is a small
silver-coloured cylinder found mostly in
older fluorescent lamps. When the lamp
in an older fluorescent begins to flicker,
both the tube and the starter should be
replaced.
Starterless operation is achieved with
instant-start and rapid-start ballast
designs. Instant-start ballasts provide sufficient voltage to start fluorescent lamps
without preheating and are commonly
used with single-pin lamps and some special lamp types.
Rapid-start ballasts heat the cathodes
continuously from a low-voltage transformer within the ballast. This is the
most common type of ballast in use
today for 40-watt lamps and for all lamps
that use recessed double-contact bases.
Reduced-wattage lamps operate on
most existing ballasts, which can reduce
wattage 14 to 20 percent. In addition,
new ballasts developed to minimize the
wattage consumed by the ballast itself
further reduce electrical consumption.
Compact Fluorescents
Compact fluorescent bulbs offer different
style and performance from standard fluorescent bulbs. Their colour nearly equals
Soft White incandescents, and they offer
superior energy efficiency and long life.
The new compacts can be used in many
household fixtures. Circular units are
already familiar in ceiling fixtures and
artists’ lamps; new applications are wall
sconces, table lamps, lanterns, desk lights
and outdoor fixtures. Compact fluorescents feature sizes and shapes to match
most incandescent bulbs including one
that resembles a standard household bulb.
They can be as small as 4.5" long, and
some are the same size as their incandescent counterparts. Not all fixtures
designed for incandescents may have
enough room inside the shade or glass for
the bulb.
Compact fluorescents cannot be
dimmed. Their life will be maximized if
they are used in locations where a light
stays on for hours at a time.
Compact fluorescent lamps typically last
7,000 to 10,000 hours, which is nine to 13
times longer than comparable incandescent lamps. Energy efficiency can go up to
105 lumens per watt. Wattages for home
use range from 7 to 27 watts.
Reflector-shaped compact fluorescents
can replace standard R30 and R40 shaped
incandescent reflector bulbs. Globe-shaped
compact fluorescents can replace standard
G25 bath and vanity globes or G30 decorative globes that are used in pendants.
Decorator or flame-shaped bulbs can
replace similar incandescent bulbs in
chandeliers, sconces and outdoor fixtures.
Stick-shaped compact fluorescents can
replace standard Type “A” bulbs in
portable lamps, while twist-shaped compact fluorescents can replace standard
Type “A” bulbs in virtually any application. There are also household-shaped
compact fluorescents that make ideal
replacements where the bulbs are visible
in the fixture.
When choosing a compact fluorescent
bulb to replace an incandescent bulb,
compare the lumen output of the two
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
9
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
bulbs. For maximum energy efficiency,
select a bulb with the highest lumens and
lowest wattage combination. For example,
replace a 100-watt incandescent household
lamp that produces 1,600 lumens with a
25-watt compact fluorescent lamp that
also produces 1,600 lumens.
■ HIGH-INTENSITY
DISCHARGE LIGHTING
High-intensity discharge (HID) bulbs
produce light in a manner often described
as “lightning in a bottle.” As in fluorescent bulbs, current flows through a conducting gas and ballasts are required to
start the bulb and to control its operation.
Unlike fluorescent, most of the light
comes from the arc itself rather than
through the work of the phosphor.
The highest-efficiency light sources (the
most light per watt) are members of HID
families. The four basic HID types are mercury vapor, metal halide, high-pressure
sodium and low-pressure sodium.
HID bulbs are primarily used for area
and security lighting. They feature a lifespan of 20,000 to 24,000 hours. They come
in a variety of shapes and in medium and
mogul bases.
Mercury vapor lighting is used for exte-
rior area and security lighting, such as
dusk-to-dawn residential lighting. Mercury
vapor lamps provide twice the light output
per watt as incandescent lamps. Along
with the higher output, they also have a
longer lamp life, in some cases up to 30
times as long. They are also more expensive than incandescent or fluorescent.
Mercury vapor bulbs produce a bluish
white color.
Self-ballasted mercury lamps can be
used with a ballast in incandescent fixtures and are available for 120V systems in
the lower wattages (up to 250 watts) and
for 240V systems in both lower and higher
wattages. These lamps deliver slightly
more light output per watt as the incandescent lamps but have the long life of
mercury lamps.
Lighting systems that provide three to
six times the light output per watt of
incandescent lamps can replace incandescent, mercury and self-ballasted mercury
systems. These metal halide and
high–pressure sodium (HPS) lamps require
specific ballasts, but offer major energy
savings to users.
The metal halide lamps feature medium
efficiency, with 50 to 110 lumens per watt.
They provide good colour characteristics
(similar to cool white fluorescent lamps)
along with higher light output.
The high-pressure sodium lamps provide even higher light output per watt
than metal halide (50 to 150 lumens per
watt), with a golden yellow light.
Residential applications include security
and landscape lighting.
Low-pressure sodium bulbs feature the
highest efficiency, with 100 to 180 lumens
per watt. They produce an orange light.
When replacing HID bulbs, it is necessary to use the exact bulb.
Energy-Saving Bulbs
TOOLS—Wire cutters, strippers stapler and screwdrivers are all part of the electrician's toolbox.
Compact fluorescent bulbs can be
screwed into a standard incandescent base.
In addition to energy savings, their main
advantage is longevity. The lamps give as
much or more light as an incandescent
bulb, with about 1/4 the wattage. The
bulb’s life is approximately 7,000 to
10,000 hours.
Energy-saving incandescent bulbs generally provide nearly the same amount of
light output as conventional 60- and 100watt bulbs but use fewer watts.
Energy-saving PAR spot and floodlights
combine a special reflector design with
lower wattage to provide almost the same
amount of useful light, using considerably
less electrical energy.
Lighting takes approximately 12 percent
to 15 percent of the electricity used in a
home. However, the following will help
customers economize on the lighting portion of an electricity bill:
o Turn off lights when you do not need
them.
o Use dimmers, when desirable.
o Use photoelectric cells or timers to turn
outdoor lights on and off automatically.
o Use reflector bulbs, especially for task
and accent lighting.
o Use energy-saving fluorescents where
practical since they provide more
lumens per watt.
WALL PLATES—Does the customer have the right number and configuration of wall plates to
match the fixtures being installed?
Solar Lighting
SELLING TIPS FOR ELECTRICAL PROJECTS
You can further both your sales and your “know-how” image by making sure the customer has everything needed for the job. Here is a checklist of items to go over in the store.
CABLE—Are they buying enough to reach the distance of the circuit? Allow at least 10 percent
excess to accommodate bends. Also, make sure the wire will handle the amount of amperage it
will be expected to draw. Explain that lower resistance wire, while more expensive initially, will
save money by reducing power loss or blown fuses and will increase safety.
BOXES—Go over the proposed circuit with the customer. They will need a box for every outlet,
fixture, splice or other break in the cable.
WIRE CONNECTORS—At least two of these are required at every cable splice. Most light fixtures
are pre-wired and must be spliced onto the circuit cable. Sockets and switches do not require
connectors since cable is usually mounted directly to the device.
INSULATED STAPLES—These will be needed to mount the cable to the studs. Make sure they
are the right size for the type of cable being used.
INSULATED TAPE—Necessary for wrapping splices or taping any electrical wires.
LIGHT BULBS—Most lighting fixtures are sold without bulbs. Does the customer have the proper size and number for the fixtures being purchased?
Solar lights require no energy to operate
and are easy to install. Their performance
is directly related to how much sun they
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
10
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
are exposed to, so proper placement is crucial. One type of solar light uses a prismatic polymer lens and custom reflector system that produces a relatively high level
of light.
Trouble Lights
Safety is a primary feature of trouble
lights. Strict standards are designed to
assure safety.
To meet the standards, all lamps with
metal guards must be permanently threewire grounded to the guard. Some lamps
have plastic guards that solve the grounding problem, reduce heat build-up and
prevent scratching of painted surfaces.
Recently, new incandescent and fluorescent utility lights have been introduced
without built-in cords. These models
attach to a user’s extension cord and are
easy to store and convenient to use.
In all cases, handles must be tightly fitted to the cage and meet crush-resistance
testing and heat-factor requirements.
portable conductors that carry electricity
from outlet to appliance.
The Canadian Electrical Code provides a
framework for electrical codes in Canada.
Several provinces have adopted this code
while other provinces have adopted the
framework and imposed more restirctive
or new requirements.
Minimum electrical needs in a home are
200 and more amperes. General-purpose
15-amp circuits will handle lamps, radios
and TV sets and outlets for small appliances drawing no more than a total of
1,750 watts for a 15-amp fuse or 2,500
watts for a 20-amp fuse at one time.
There is often confusion about which
colours are used for hot, neutral and ground
wires. The ungrounded conductor, or hot
wire, can be any colour other than white,
gray or green. Although the hot wire is typically black, there are exceptions. The grounded conductor or neutral wire is green, green
with one or more strips, or bare.
Consequently, all cables
are made of at least two
conductors, a “hot” line
to carry the current to
NM-B the appliance and a
“neutral” line to complete the loop.
All cables are marked
with a series of letters
UF-B
followed by a number,
a dash and another number. The letters
indicate the type of insulation (cord, wire
and insulation). The first number indicates
the resistance of the wires in the cable,
and the number following the dash indicates the number of individual conductors
in the cable.
If the designator “G” follows the series, it
means that the cable is also equipped with a
non-current-carrying ground wire. Hence,
the designator USE 12-3/G indicates an
underground cable containing three separately insulated wires capable of carrying 20
amps of current plus a grounding wire.
Wire
Night Lights
The most popular night light is a 4-watt
bulb rated at 3,000 hours.
Another popular construction is a small
neon light rated at 1/4-watt. There are also
units available with photoelectric cells.
WIRE AND
CABLE
Home wiring begins at the electric
meter, where circuits break the total current coming into a home into usable
quantities. Complete wiring or rewiring
should be done by an electrician; however,
many repairs can be done by d-i-yers with
proper instruction. Unless highly skilled,
they should limit their endeavors to
“front-of-wall” repairs. For more information, see (Adding Electric Wiring).
Wires, cables and cords are the means
for bringing electricity to its point of use.
Wire refers to a single conductor. Cable is
two or more separately insulated conductors in a single covering used in permanent installations. Cord refers to the
Wire is rated by its resistance to the
flow of electricity passing through it.
Copper or tinned copper is the most common conductor in home wiring because it
has minimum resistance at reasonable cost.
Aluminum is occasionally used, but because
of its higher resistance, it is usually restricted to high-voltage lines where weight is
more important than bulk. It is rarely used
in ordinary home wiring.
The diameter of wire is directly proportional to the amount of current it will
carry. Larger wire carries more current. If
too much current is forced through the
wire, it will overheat and blow a fuse or
trip a circuit breaker. Home wiring is
rated from zero to 14 where No. 14 can be
used for 15 amp circuits.
Cable
Cable refers to a collection of two or
more strands of wire or conductors. Cable
constitutes the bulk of the wiring sold in
electrical departments.
Electricity entering the house must form
a circuit by returning to the point of entry
to be connected to a ground.
Two-Conductor Cable
Two-conductor cable has one black wire
and one white wire. The black wire is
always the “hot” wire and must be fused.
The white is always neutral and must
never be fused. When current bridges the
gap from the 110V hot wire to the neutral,
it results in a 110V input to the appliance.
Three-Conductor Cable
Three-conductor cable contains a red
wire in addition to black and white. The
black and red wires are “hot,” carrying
110V each, and both must be fused. The
white remains neutral.
Bridging either 110V wire to the neutral
wire produces 110V. Bridging both 110V
wires results in 220V. This three-wire circuit
is increasingly common in home wiring; it
accommodates major 220V appliances, such
as ranges and air conditioners.
Grounding Wires
Both two- and three-conductor cables
can carry grounding wires, which provide
a path of least resistance from the frame or
case of an appliance to the ground to
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
11
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
USE COMMON SENSE TO AVOID ELECTRICAL HAZARDS
Stress to your customers that they use common sense when working with electricity. Before
proceeding with any electrical work, make sure the main disconnect on the service entrance
panel is at the “off” position or pull the main fuses if the panel is the cartridge fuse type.
When working on individual receptacles or light switches, turn off the circuit breaker for the circuit being worked on, and test with a test light before handling bare wires.
Other tips:
• Never stand on wet or damp floors when working at the service entrance on any electrical
device. Wear rubber gloves and stand on a rubber mat for added safety.
• To avoid overloaded circuits, never use a fuse which has a higher amperage rating than the
rating on the wire for the circuit.
• Never run more appliances from one receptacle than the amperage rating for that outlet.
• Never use a penny or tinfoil in a service panel instead of a fuse.
guard against electric shocks.
The electric motor in a refrigerator, for
instance, might develop a current leak to
the frame of the appliance. A person
touching the refrigerator could create a
path for the current to pass to the ground.
Consequently, he would receive a shock.
A grounding wire, attached to the frame
of the refrigerator and directly to the
ground, would provide a lower resistance
path than the person. The electricity
could then pass safely to the ground.
Thermostat Cables
Thermostat cables are used in low-voltage control, alarm and communication
systems. Most common types are braided,
twisted and plastic-jacketed types.
All three use solid copper conductors
and are twisted and insulated with plastic.
Twisted cable, which has no outer
braid, is used in doorbells, burglar alarms,
intercom telephones and public address
systems.
Braided cable is covered with cotton
braid and is used primarily in thermostat
controls and other low-voltage, remote
control circuits.
Plastic-jacketed cable is also used in
similar low-voltage applications.
Although thermostat cable is low voltage, it carries a UL-listing for being flameretardant since it is installed in the wall.
Wiring used in security alarm and smoke
detection systems must be CSA or cULlisted.
TV Wire and Accessories
Television lead-in wire connects the
receiving set to the antenna. Good quality
300-ohm wire is used for both VHF and
UHF receivers.
A TV set coupler is a loss-producing
device for connecting two or more TV
receivers to the same antenna. The loss
introduced into the circuit is small, but can
be critical in “fringe area” reception. In such
areas, customers should be told of this small
loss and to expect a slight reduction in signal strength at the receiver.
A lightning arrestor mounts on the outside of the house as close to the TV receiver as possible to protect the receiver
against lightning damage. The lead-in wire
is attached to proper contacts and the
ground rod to ground connector.
Lightning will jump the gap inside the
arrestor and flow into the earth if the circuit is properly installed.
Home Networking
Multiple computers in the home, satellite dishes, cable TV, sophisticated audio
systems and home theaters have given rise
to the desire for home networks.
The heart of these systems is the networking hub. Usually thought of in conjunction with computers, the home network hub differs in that it provides central
control of computers, peripherals, phones,
TVs and audio components. This is the
unit where most of the wiring from different locations comes together to meet.
Most home networks use coaxial,
Category 3 and Category 5 cable. Coaxial
cable is used for TVs, VCRs and satellite
equipment. Category 3 cable is used for
telephones while Category 5 is used for
telephone, fax and computer systems.
Some cables combine different functions
into one cable.
“Structured” wiring refers to a bundle of
cables that runs from the networking hub
to meet a home’s future information-carrying needs. This wire bundle may consist of
some combination of Category 5 cables,
fiber-optic lines, Category 3 cables and
coaxial lines. New home construction and
renovation jobs should try to accommodate wiring in this fashion to meet the
bandwidth needs of digital transmissions.
Jacks are used to terminate the cable.
There are different jacks for telephones,
computers, satellite, audio and video equipment. Many of these jacks and cable connectors require special tools for installation.
Patch cords are used to connect different computer and audio/video devices
with one another or with a central networking device such as a hub.
Binding posts are used to connect bare
speaker wire, while F-Connectors are used
with coaxial cable.
Home Wiring Testers
New tools and testers are making the
job of installing and maintaining household wiring and home networks easier and
safer.
Non-contact voltage testers allow you
to see if a line is carrying current without
touching the line. Features include audible
and visual alarms, battery-checking circuitry and a size that is small enough to fit
into a pocket.
Circuit analyzers and receptacle testers
are designed to determine if circuits are
wired properly. They plug into any
grounded electrical receptacle and test
receptacle wiring and grounding in standard and GFCI outlets. A convenient chart
and lights tell you if the circuit is wired
properly, if the wiring is reversed, the
ground is not working or if there is an
open line.
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
12
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
A ground fault receptacle tester and
analyzer performs the same functions for
GFCI receptacles plus it also tests the
ground fault feature. Similar tools are
available for telephone and computer
lines.
Circuit trackers easily locate circuits
without turning off breakers or fuses. They
feature a transmitter that is plugged into a
live outlet. A receiver is used at the service
panel to identify the circuit into which
the transmitter is plugged. Some models
incorporate a visual and an audio indicator. Adapter kits allow you to identify light
switches and light bulb sockets.
An in-wall pipe and wire detector
locates metal objects and live unshielded
conductors behind drywall, paneling and
plaster walls.
■ CORDS
Electrical cords provide a path for current to travel from a fixed outlet to an
appliance.
The type of cord needed for a given job
is determined by the amperage drawn by
the appliance, whether the appliance is
grounded and the degree of physical protection required.
Extension Cords
Extension cords are for temporary power
only. Make sure the customer uses the right
size for the application. Outdoor and
indoor/household types are available, as well
as commercial cords with heavier gauges,
higher amp ratings and extra flexibility.
Indoor extension cords come in twowire and three-wire cords in lengths from
6' to 15' with 6' and 9' being the most
popular lengths. White and brown are the
basic colors.
Outdoor extension cords are used for
outdoor power tools and exterior lighting.
They come in 16/3, 14/3 and 12/3 wire,
and the most common lengths are from
25' to 100'. Heavy-duty extension cords
should be used with high-wattage appliances. Be sure to match the construction
of the cable to the job. SJT round cord is
better able to withstand the constant flexing of use with power tools than SPT2.
TYPES OF CABLE AND CORD
AMPERAGE RATINGS FOR CORD
AWG WIRE #
MINIMUM AMPERAGE
0 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .125
2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .95
Non-Metallic Sheath Cable
4 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70
6 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
10 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
Armored Cable
12 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
14 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
16 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Type SPT Cord
18 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10
Any CSA or cUL-listed cord will carry a
CSA or cUL label near the female end. It is
important to check for this label. Non-listed cords can be similar in appearance to
listed ones.
To be CSA or cUL-listed for outdoor use,
three-wire round cords must have connector and cap moulded to the cord and a lip
on the end of the connector to prevent
misuse.
Grounding cords are available in both
heavyweight and heavy-duty construction
differing from standard cords, because
they have three conductors instead of two
and are equipped with a three-prong
grounding plug and connector.
An assortment of specialty extension
cords includes:
Step-saver cords—have built-in pendant
switches to control appliances and lamps
across the room.
Wind-up reels—keep tangled, footcatching cords off the floor.
In recommending a proper extension
cord, pass along these buying and safety
tips:
o Advise customers to follow manufacturer recommendations for outdoor use
and to not use a household extension
cord outdoors.
o Damaged or worn extension cords
should be replaced, not repaired.
Replace older cords that are non-polarized and don’t have safety closures.
o Know the length of cord needed and
electrical load it can carry. Cord should
Type S and SJ Cord
Type HPD Cord
o
o
o
o
o
reach easily from wall outlet to appliance. Never put two short cords together to obtain needed length.
Only use an extension cord that has
been tested by a nationally recognised
testing laboratory such as cUL or CSA.
Keep cords out of the reach of children
and out of high-traffic areas where people might trip over them.
Never remove the third prong or cut
down the blade of a plug to fit a nonpolarized receptacle.
Do not cover cords with carpet, furniture or appliances.
Cord should be permanently bonded to
the plug and the connector to ensure a
good connection and no exposed
wiring.
Appliance Cords
Appliance cords combine cord and connector. The difference between cord sets can
be in type of connector and/or cord used.
Free-end attachment cord sets without
connectors are used in re-wiring direct
attachment irons, toasters and similar
small appliances. They have pre-tinned
ends to speed up wiring.
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
13
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
CORD, WIRE AND INSULATION
DESIGNATOR
TYPE OF INSULATION
GENERAL USE
WIRE
R
Rubber
All-purpose building wire, 600V, 60°C.
RH
Rubber & cotton braid
Same as R with heat resistance to 75°C.
RW
Rubber
Same as R with moisture resistance.
RHH
Rubber & cotton braid
Same as R with heat resistance to 90°C.
RHW
Rubber & cotton braid
Same as R with heat and moisture resistance to 75°C wet or dry.
RH/RW
Rubber & cotton braid
Same as R but 75°C dry and 60°C wet.
T
Thermoplastic vinyl
All-purpose building wire, 60°C.
THW
Thermoplastic vinyl
Same capacity as RHW.
TW
Thermoplastic vinyl
Same as RW.
WP
Cotton braid
Weatherproof for suspended outdoor use.
NM
Paper overlaid with cotton
For dry use only, 60°C. Braid or plastic
NMC
Plastic or neoprene coating
Wet or dry use, 60°C. Only cable approved for barns.
USE
Rubber & neoprene
Underground service entrance. Fusing or additional covering not required.
UF
Thermoplastic
Underground feeder and branch cable. Can be buried but must be fused.
ACT
Armored cable on plastic
Branch circuits and feeders. Insulated wires.
ACU
Armored cable on rubber
Same as ACT. Insulated wires.
C
Rubber & cotton braid
Lamps and portable appliances in dry areas, 300V and 600V, 60°C.
HPN
Neoprene
Same as HPD with moisture resistance.
SP-1
Rubber
Lightweight for lamps, clocks, etc., 300V.
NONMETALLIC CABLE
ARMORED CABLE
CORDS
SP-2
Rubber
Same as SP-1 with heavier construction for more general use, 300V.
SP-3
Rubber
Heavier construction than SP-2 for use with refrigerators, air conditioners, etc., 300V.
SPT-1, SPT-2, SPT-3
Thermoplastic
Correspond to SP-1, SP-2 and SP-3.
S
Rubber and jute twine
Heavy duty for power tools, battery chargers, etc., 600V.
SJ
Rubber and jute twine
Same as S but only 300V.
SJO
Rubber and jute twine
Same as SJ but oil resistant, 300V.
AWG
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
125
95
70
55
40
30
25
18
13
10
Actual Size
Maximum
amperage
Actual size of copper wires and maximum amperage allowed in permanent installation.
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
14
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
Range and Dryer Cords
■ WIRING DEVICES
Range and dryer cords are free-end
types, commonly called “pigtails,”
attached directly to the appliance. Free
ends are fitted with cable terminals that
connect to screw terminals of the appliance to assure positive connections. A
metal clamp attached to the cable serves
as a strain relief at the point where the
cable enters an appliance and a cord protector.
Heavy-duty attachment plugs for ranges
and dryers are much larger than standard
attachment plugs. Most are “L” shaped
with a power cord feeding out the side of
the plug.
Sizes range from 30 amps for dryers and
small ranges to 50 amps for larger ranges.
The different amperage attachment plugs
are not interchangeable because of a difference in their configuration.
A recent code change requires new
range and dryer receptacle installations to
be 3-pole, 4-wire grounding receptacles.
The neutral (grounded circuit conductor)
can no longer be used to ground the
frames of electrical ranges and dryers.
Wires and cable form circuits to carry
electricity through a building. Wiring
devices described here are used to control
current flow and provide access points so
electricity can be used to power appliances
and lights.
Heating Tapes
The primary function of heating tape is
to protect pipes from freezing. Today there
are heating tapes to warm the soil for
growing plants as well as tapes for preventing water damage caused by snow and
ice buildup. They are all designed for
quick and easy installation.
Tapes are automatic, constant-heat or
self-regulating. A thermostat controls an
automatic tape. Constant-heat tape must
be manually turned on and off as the temperature changes. A self-regulating tape is
made of semi-conductive plastic that
adjusts to outside temperatures.
Other Cords
Plastic parallel cord can be sold off the
roll for use with lamps, radios and other
small appliances. Plastic bell wire is used
for bells, buzzers, chimes, toy electric
trains and other similar systems and hookups.
Switches
A switch controls power to lights and
devices by turning off the hot side of the
circuit. Selection depends on design and
load capacity. For more information, see
(Installing or Replacing Electric
Switches).
Conventional Switches
A conventional switch makes or breaks
contact when a mechanically connected
tumbler or toggle bridges or breaks the
line contacts in the switch.
A single-pole switch is simplest and
most frequently used in the home, controlling current on one circuit from one
point. It features two terminal screws.
Double-pole switches have four terminal
screws.
A three-way switch controls one circuit
from two separate points, such as a garage
light that can be turned on or off from the
house or the garage.
Four-way switches are used in connection with three-way switches to control
one circuit from three or more points.
Single-pole and three-way switches are
available with lighted handles that glow in
the dark.
Dimmer Switches
Dimmer switches control the amount
of current in a lighting circuit, allowing
the user to control the degree of light
from off to full capacity.
Some dimmers control the amount of
voltage going to the lamp, increasing or
reducing the amount of light given off.
Other dimmers control a portion of each
alternating current cycle applied to the
lamp. This means a solid state dimmer
turns the light off and on approximately
120 times per second. The on-off rate has
no noticeable effect on the life of the
bulb or on the eyes of persons in the
room.
One undesirable side effect of this onoff cycle is interference on AM radios.
Some dimmers have radio/TV filters and
printed circuitry. There are table lamp
dimmers and dimmers that wire parallel
into the lamp cord. In addition, use of a
dimmer will cause some light bulbs to
“hum.” The sound is created from the
turning on and off of the A.C. sine wave.
The rapid switching causes the tungsten
filament to resonate. Filament hum is
typical with inexpensive lamps that are
commonly installed in new construction.
The hum can be greatly reduced by
upgrading to a lamp with a heavier filament.
It is also normal for a dimmer to get
warm during operation, which is why
dimmers are built with a heat sink. If the
load is not over the wattage rating of the
dimmer and is a proper load for which
the dimmer is designed to control, the
dimmer does not need to be replaced.
There are several styles of wall dimmer
switches available. The most popular
include a push on-off/dial-to-dim type, a
rotary full- range type, a slide type and a
toggle type that offers full-range control
but uses toggle motion instead of a dial.
Dimmers also come in single-pole or
three-way construction. If two, three-way
switches are involved, only one of them
can be a dimmer. Otherwise, the setting
will not work, although some toggle dimmers allow two three-way switches to be
used.
An air gap switch is built into all dimmers as a safety feature to ensure that
power can be removed to the output—
this is a UL requirement.
Specialty Switches
Rocker switch—used in place of a standard wall switch, it is activated with a
push-button mechanism. Useful near a
doorway or area where hands might be
full or for appearance and for range hood
and appliances.
Delayed-action switch—circuit remains
active for a few minutes after switch is
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
15
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
OUTLETS AND SOCKETS
Grounding
Outlet
Single Pole
Switch
Two Switches
thrown. Useful in garage or breezeway,
allowing individual to get into the house
before light goes out.
Programmable memory switch—set to
go on and off at specific times for security
or safety purposes.
Photoelectric switch—operates by light
striking cell. Usually used on yard lights.
Daylight turns circuit off; it goes back on
at dusk. Circuit usually has a delay device
to prevent passing headlights from turning
light off.
Motion switch—turns the light on as
you enter the room. Used for both convenience and security. Can be used to
replace existing wall switches.
Illuminated switch—is available in two
types. One has a small light that is on
Double Outlet
Pull Chain Ceiling Pull Chain
Lampholder
Socket
Keyless Ceiling
Lampholder
when the switch is off so it can be easily
found; these are usually used at entrances
to rooms and in hallways. Pilot light
switches are on when the light is off and
usually used for out-of-sight lights such as
those in the basement, garage and attic.
Outdoor switch—enables electrical
power to be used for outside applications.
They feature a turning lever inside a
weatherproof box cover with a toggle
switch.
A second type of tamper-resistant outlet
utilizes an overlapping shutter system that
limits improper access to its energized
contacts.
Voice-activated switch—offers a handsfree approach to illuminating dark areas
quickly and safely. Voice-activated switch-
RIP #
ST
KE
Y
RIP #
ST
WIRE
14
WIRE
12
Y
LOOP HOLE
OFF
6A 125V AC, 3A 25 0V
3A
AC,
VT
125
ELOH POOL
IR
# P TS
12
WIRE
WIRE
RIP
ST
4 WIR
#1
#12
IP
Cord switch
STR
Duplex receptacle
2-pole, 3-wire
grounding
Weather
protective cover for
single receptacle
Single-pole
grounding switch
IW 41
ER
E
ST
RIP #
Three-way lighted
toggle grounding
switch
4 WIR
#1
STRIP
RIP #
ST
WIRE
12
E
TOP
2 single-pole switches
3 single-pole
switches
Push-Through Weatherproof
Socket
Pigtail Socket
es incorporate the latest technology in
speech recognition to enable homeowners
to control the brightness of the lights.
Used in place of any standard wall switch,
they can be programmed with any command or language.
Silent switch—provides the same operation as many of the other switches with
little or no noise. Silent switches are either
mechanical or solid state. The mechanical
switch is almost identical to the regular
switch except for an extra bumper to
reduce the noise. Prior to 1991, silent
switches contained mercury and used no
springs or mechanical devices. This resulted in smooth, silent operation and long
life. Due to health concerns they were
removed from the market.
Receptacles
SWITCHES
KE
3-way
Socket
TOP
Single-pole AC
quiet switch
Three-way AC
quiet switch
The wall receptacle, or outlet, taps the
circuit to provide electrical power at a
given location. The slots in the outlet are
designed to match the plug blades of the
appliance or extension cord. Building
codes specify number and spacing of outlets.
Receptacles come in flush- and surfacemounted designs. Flush-mounted
(recessed) is the style most commonly
used for permanent installations.
Configuration of a receptacle refers to
the arrangement of slots or openings on
the face of the outlet. These arrangements vary according to voltage and current rating of the receptacle.
The most common configuration is
three-wire grounded. The most common
outlets used in homes are standard 15amp, 125V, three-wire designs. All outlets
must be grounded (three prongs).
A single- or double-wipe contact refers
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
16
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
to the area of the inserted prong on
which contact is made. In the case of a
double wipe contact, contact is made on
both sides of each blade.
All outlets should have a faceplate to
help prevent exposure to “live” wiring.
There are three basic ways to terminate wiring in wall receptacles. First is
the conventional binding-screw method
where wires are stripped, looped and
placed under binding screws and then
secured by tightening down screws.
Second is the pressure-lock method,
which eliminates binding screws. In this
method, connection is made by inserting
a stripped conductor, which pushes the
conductor into and against the terminal
channel for a strong connection. Release
slots permit easy removal of conductors.
A third method involves clamp-type
terminals. Stripped wire is inserted into
an open clamp beneath a screw that is
then turned down to lock connection.
Some receptacles have small “pilot” or
guide lights. Appliance receptacles consist
of one vertical slot and two slanted slots
and are designed to be surface-mounted.
Specialty receptacles include twist lock,
childproof, surge suppressor, isolated
ground and RV.
Any flush-mounted receptacle may be
installed outdoors if covered by a protective plate. These weatherproof covers
have hinged or threaded caps that cover
the outlet face. A self-sealing gasket fits
between the plates and the wall surface to
add further protection.
Safety outlets have spring-loaded caps
to prevent children from inserting objects
into them. To insert an attachment plug,
its prongs must be placed into the slots of
the protective cap, then turned 90
degrees or until the slots of the outlet are
exposed. When the plug is withdrawn,
the cover automatically returns to its
original protective position. A slight variation of this uses an overlapping shutter
system.
A second type of safety outlet utilizes a
cam to make an internal electrical connection only when both blades are properly inserted.
Ground Fault Circuit
Interrupters
Even with proper wiring and fusing or
circuit breaking equipment, danger exists
from ground faults, which are the most
common cause of electrical shock.
Ground fault occurs
when a person comes
into contact with a live
electrical wire. This can
happen by touching an
exposed wire, or by operating a faulty appliance
Ground fault
circuit interrupter
or power tool. Worn insulation, hidden damage or faulty connections can make the metal housing of an
appliance a hot electrical conductor.
Technically, this happens when a wire
develops a small leak that will flow to the
ground through any path, including a
human body. This can cause serious shock,
even death. Ground faults can also cause
electrical fires.
This hazard is so serious that the
Canadian Electrical Code requires all new
homes to be equipped with ground fault
circuit interrupters (GFCI) in bathroom,
kitchen, workroom, outdoor, basement
and crawl space, garage and swimming
pool receptacles. It is a good idea to suggest that homeowners install such a device
in older homes. The GFCI interrupts
power quickly enough to help prevent
someone from receiving a lethal dose of
electricity.
GFCIs are available in receptacles, modules, breakers and extension cords.
Receptacles work for 15- or 20-amp circuits. GFCIs should be tested monthly to
ensure they are working properly.
For convenience, a portable GFCI can be
plugged into any existing outlets, either
two-wire or three-wire, without rewiring.
Circuit breaker GFCIs can be added in
electrical panels to replace ordinary circuit
breakers. They should be installed by a
qualified electrician.
Surge Suppressors
With increasing use of home computers
and other sensitive electronic home entertainment equipment, there is a growing
need for protection from voltage surges,
often called spikes or transients. Surge protection is also needed because of the sheer
number of potentially destructive spikes
and surges
that occur in
the home
Surge protector power strip
every day.
Surges can cause equipment to malfunction and in severe cases cause catastrophic
damage or fire.
A surge is a transient increase of current, voltage or power on an electrical system. The larger, more destructive surges,
generally caused by lighting, can reach
thousands of volts. Surges can also come
from utility transformer switching, air
conditioner operation, inductive and
power switching, distant lightning strikes
and static discharges. They put extreme
stress on solid-state components.
Unchecked, such surges can quickly
destroy wiring, appliances, telephones and
other electrical devices.
Transient voltage surge suppressors
(TVSS) help protect sensitive electronic
equipment. Surge protectors limit surge
voltages by discharging surge currents to
ground. Proper grounding is the strongest
prerequisite for proper surge protection.
The key component in almost all surge
protectors is metal oxide varisters (MOVs).
Under normal conditions, MOVs offer
high resistance to currents, preventing
normal currents from discharging to the
ground. Under surge conditions—typically
115 percent or more of a normal current—
the MOV’s resistance drops within
nanoseconds, creating a path with far less
resistance than the facility’s wiring for the
current to flow to the ground.
Basically, there are two types of suppressors. One—also known as a surge strip—is
similar to a grounding adapter, and the
appliance plugs into it at the wall outlet.
Surge strips are not capable of suppressing
a powerful surge. The other type, designed
primarily to prevent lightning damage, is
mounted at the service panel and protects
the home where the electric, telephone
and cable lines enter. The Institute of
Electronics and Electrical Engineers recom2
2
1
1
1
5
5
3
3
4
3
2
4
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
17
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
mend whole-house surge suppresThe connectors are molded of
LAMP HOLDERS
sion as the most effective way to
strong, heat-resistant materials
protect against damage in the
and come in a variety of styles,
home.
such as switchless, armored (or
Some of these suppressors also
heavily protected), side outlet
feature filters that reduce or
and monopull. All have spring
eliminate line noise distortion
cord protectors.
that is picked up on radios, teleThere are two standard sizes:
Keyless lampholder
Lampholder with
Fluorescent
visions and tape recorders. These
11/16" and the miniature 1/2".
pull cord
lampholder
filters also help guard against
Standard 11/16" connectors
accidental data loss in home
generally fit on irons and toastcomputers triggered by spikes or line
Lampholders
ers. The 1/2" connectors are for coffeemaknoise.
Lampholders are devices with a screw
ers, corn poppers, some electric skillets
A whole-house surge protector mountbase that hold light bulbs. Some have
and other similar appliances.
ed at the service panel also protects secswitches to turn them on and off.
ondary distribution wiring and electrical
Lampholder sockets come in two basic
Bulb Life Extenders
appliances such as ovens, air conditionstyles: single and multiple holders. The
Extenders have different designs. One
ers, dishwashers and refrigerators from
most popular styles are twin light, adapter,
screws into a regular socket like a socket
most sudden power surges. To increase
keyless, pull-chain tap socket, push switch
adapter; the other is a small disc placed in
the protection of electronic equipment, it
and turnkey.
the base of the socket before the bulb is
is also recommended that a plug-in surge
A socket has three principal parts: shell,
inserted. Bulbs last up to 30 times longer
suppressor be installed at the point of use
cap and interior. The cap has three basic
than in standard sockets; extenders should
to supplement a secondary surge arrester.
styles: pendant, nozzle and side outlet. A
be recommended for use where the bulb
Surge protectors are rated in Joules and
pendant is used with a suspended socket; a
burns continuously.
clamping voltages. Once surge protection
cord enters through the top. Side outlet
has been provided at the maximum levfits cords coming through the side. Nozzle
Boxes, Fittings and Conduit
els, the unit must be replaced. Look for
caps are used on table lamps where cord
According to the Canadian Electrical
audible or visual indicators.
feeds through the bottom.
Code, every break or termination in an
When selling surge protection devices,
The shell is the body of the socket. It can
electric cable must be enclosed in an
stress the low cost of these products combe brass, brass-finished, nickel-finished aluappropriate box. This rule applies to
pared to the high cost of repairing or
minum or plastic. Shell liner, interior and
switches and fixture connections as well as
replacing branch wiring and electrical
cap may be disassembled for wiring.
to splices and junctions.
appliances and equipment. However, a
Other sockets include pigtail weatherWall boxes, ceiling boxes (junction
surge protector will not protect against a
proof, which comes with two short leads
boxes) and weatherproof (outdoor) boxes
direct lightning strike.
for splicing into a power source.
are the main types of electrical boxes.
Similar to the pigtail is the pin type, but
The three types of boxes are switch and
Transfer Switches
tightening down the top and forcing conoutlet, ceiling and utility boxes. Some are
Transfer switches have become more poptact pins into wire makes contact.
made of galvanized steel with knockouts
ular for new construction and aftermarket
The most common size sold is medium
to bring cable into the box. Non-metallic
installations due to weather storms or accibase (such as on 60- and 100-watt bulbs).
(plastic) boxes are also available. Clamps
dental power outages. Transfer switches are
Other principal sizes are large-base mogul,
are included in some boxes to hold cables
wired up to specific load center circuits that
used on three-way floor lamps; and interin place.
will be utilized when there is an emergency
mediate, which is used on outdoor
Switch boxes are 2" x 3" in size and can
power outage. A portable generator is then
Christmas tree bulbs, candelabra and some
be used to house receptacles (outlets) as
plugged into it and the switch transfers gennight lights.
well as wall switches. Switch boxes are
erator power through the home’s existing
designed so that two or more may be faselectrical circuits. There is no backfeed
Appliance and Heater
tened together to form a larger box. The
when power is restored. Transfer switches
Connectors
side walls must be removed where the
eliminate unnecessary extension cords and
Connectors are used to connect older
boxes join.
are easy to install. Available in choice of
style, heat-generating, small household
Octagonal ceiling boxes are used primawatts and number of circuits, plus optional
appliances with heat-resistant neoprenerily in ceilings to hold overhead light fixaccessories.
type HPN cords.
tures and splices.
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
18
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
BOXES AND COVERS
WET LOCATION ONLY
WHEN COVER CLOSED
Weather protective cover for
duplex receptacle
4-hole outlet box
3-hole outlet box
5-hole outlet box
These systems have adapters that alter
existing outlet boxes, so consumers can
tap wires off them and snap together vinyl
channels that carry the wires to the new
outlet or switch. The channels hide
unsightly wiring and can be painted to
blend into any decor. Quick and easy
installation and economy are its major
advantages.
Fuses and Circuit Breakers
Utility boxes are used for the same purpose as switch boxes, but their rounded
corners make them suitable for surface
wiring.
All boxes require covers. Box covers can
be made of metal or plastic and come in
several different shapes. The box covers
may be solid or feature knockouts for
receptacles.
Electrical fittings are used to couple, connect, fasten or ground conduit or cable.
Refer to local codes for requirements.
Cable is sometimes held in place by
straps or staples that are designed to handle different sizes and is terminated by the
use of cable connectors. A number of
other fittings are available for service
entrance installations, for grounding purposes or for hazardous locations. Fittings
can be installed easily with a screwdriver,
hammer or pliers.
Conduit is a raceway in which wires are
installed and protected. Types of conduit
include metal, non-metallic and flex. Each
conduit and size requires its own family of
fittings.
Metal conduit can be electrical metallic
tube (EMT); intermediate metallic conduit
(IMC); rigid or surface raceway.
Non-metallic conduit can be surface
raceway or polyvinyl chloride (PVC).
Flex conduit types include flexible (steel
and aluminum); electrical non-metallic
tube (ENT); and liquid tight (metallic and
non-metallic).
Conduit can be held in place by a variety of straps and hangers that are designed
to fit a specific size diameter. The diameter
of rigid and EMT conduit differs, so the
correct strap or hanger must be specified.
Lengths of conduit are joined together by
BOXES AND ACCESSORIES
Switch Box
Octagon Box
Utility Box Cover
Utility Box
couplings (either rigid or EMT) and terminated by connectors. Couplings and connectors generally are either a set-screw
type, threaded for rigid conduit or raintight compression type for damp locations.
PVC, EMT with rain tight fittings, liquid
tight, rigid and IMC conduit can be used
outdoors. For underground applications,
only PVC and rigid conduit can be used.
Surface Wiring Devices
Surface wiring switches, receptacles,
lampholders, etc., are installed entirely on
the surface of the wall as opposed to a
normal flush-mounted installation.
The device includes a box, cover and
electrical device in one unit. The unit is
molded of an attractive and sturdy plastic
insulating material, which makes it suitable for use in the home as well as in
barns, garages and basements.
On-the-wall wiring systems created for
do-it-yourselfers allow the consumer to run
electrical wires to the point of use in the
home without breaking into the wall or
ceiling.
A fuse or circuit breaker box, commonly
called a main service entrance panel or
load center, is located between incoming
power lines and house wiring. It divides
the main power line into branch circuits.
Load center applications vary, depending
on local codes.
Fuses and circuit breakers are safety
devices that break an electrical circuit
when it is overloaded. The fuse or circuit
breaker is sized to protect the branch circuit wiring between the breaker and the
outlet and does not protect anything
plugged into the outlet.
Circuit breakers come in three main
types: single, double and thin.
You can generally tell if a fuse is blown
by looking at it. If the fuse is blackened,
that indicates a short circuit has occurred;
if the metal is melted, then an overload
has occurred.
There are several types of fuses. Plug
fuses are available in 5- to 30-amp sizes
and are the most commonly used fuse.
Another fuse is the Type S, which provides a minimum time delay for the starting of small household motors. Type S
fuses prevent anyone from replacing a
lower-rated fuse with a higher one. It consists of two parts: the fuse and the adapter,
which has a different diameter for each
fuse ampere rating. Once an adapter of a
particular size has been inserted into the
fuse socket, it cannot be removed and
only the same rating fuses can be used in
that socket.
Cartridge fuses are used in high-current
applications, such as the main service box
and in clamp- or bar-type fuse boxes that
serve electric ranges, water heaters, clothes
dryers and air conditioners. Round car-
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
19
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
tridge fuses have ratings to 60 amps;
greater capacity (to 600 amps) requires a
cartridge fuse with knife-edge contacts.
A screw-in breaker can replace a fuse.
When a circuit malfunctions, a button on
this device pops out; it must be pushed in
to reset.
A circuit breaker contains a bi-metal strip
that breaks the circuit when current exceeds
a predetermined rating. A broken circuit is
indicated by the breaker’s switch being in
the mid-point position. This is commonly
referred to as a “tripped” breaker.
After the overload has been corrected,
reset the circuit breaker by switching it to
the “off” position and then to the “on”
position.
Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupters
Existing circuit breaker technology does
not protect against an occurrence known
as an arc fault. Arc faults are believed to
cause a significant percentage of the electrical home fires, deaths and injuries
annually.
An arc fault can occur when insulation
around cords, wires or cables is damaged
or deteriorates. In many cases, arc faults
are the results of aging wire. Arc faults can
flare at very high temperatures, igniting
surrounding combustible material.
In many cases, conventional circuit
breakers do not respond quickly enough to
arc fault situations. By the time a circuit
breaker responds, a fire may have begun to
smolder.
An arc-fault circuit interrupter (AFCI) is
a device that recognizes the unique characteristics of many types of arcing faults
and acts instantly to interrupt the circuit.
In some devices, the arc-fault circuit interrupter is integrated into state-of-the-art
circuit breaker design.
Now available is a combination
AFCI/GFCI circuit breaker that is certified
by Underwriter’s Laboratories. The breaker
protects against electrical fires and dangerous electrical shock hazards, enhancing
electrical safety in the home. It also simplifies the installation process for electrical
contractors since there is no need to wire
two separate devices.
WALL PLATES
Toggle Switch Plate
PLUGS AND TAPS
Combination Wall Plate
Straight plug
Weatherproof Outlet Plate
Grounding adapter
Double Outlet Plate
6-outlet tap
3-outlet
4402 tap
C t N
Wall Plates
Wall plates include all plates used to finish or cover switches, receptacles or combination devices. Standard plastic wall
plates are constructed with durable,
smooth surfaces. Builders in new homes
often install inexpensive ones. There are
also designer and decorator plates, switches and receptacles with smooth plastic
faces in contemporary colors.
Chrome-plated wall plates are made of
steel and brightly finished for lasting
appearance and durability.
Decorative wall plates come in many
styles and materials such as ceramic, aluminum, brass, wrought iron, stainless
steel, copper, wood and die-cast metals.
Die-cast products include switch and
receptacle plates made in finishes and
designs to match other functional hardware items such as door handles, cabinetware and bath fixtures.
operating voltage. Standard doorbells
operate at 10V or 16V. Some doorbells
may require other voltages, depending on
the design. Step-down transformers should
be CSA or cUL-listed. The doorbells themselves are safe, low-voltage devices that do
not require CSA or cUL inspection.
Single or multiple-stranded bell wire is
used between the doorbell, the transformer and the push buttons.
Push buttons are easily installed and
replaced. Bulb life for lighted push buttons
is approximately three to five years, and
replacement bulbs are available. Push buttons are available in lighted or unlighted,
recessed or surface-mounted styles.
Non-electric chimes are also available.
Wireless doorbells are all on the same frequency, although some offer adjustable
frequencies. For more information, see
Timers
Plugs, Adapters and Taps
Timers turn on lights and appliances at
specified intervals and times, making
them a useful security product. They are
available for outdoor or indoor applications and can be electronic or mechanical.
Spring-wound timers for bath fans and
spas have a manual on-off switch.
Plugs connect devices to the power supply through a receptacle. The typical plug
includes two blades or prongs, a molded
plastic body holding the two blades apart
and a blade/cord connection within the
plug body. When inserted into an outlet,
the blades become energized. Electricity
flows through the blades, through the
blade/cord connection and through the
cord, thus energizing the appliance.
Plugs come in polarized and non-polarized varieties. Polarization helps reduce
Doorbell Equipment
If not battery operated, doorbells
require AC step-down transformers to
reduce household voltage to the proper
(Installing Doorbells).
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
20
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
ENVIRONMENTAL
CONCERN ALERT
Many provinces and local governments are
enacting legislation concerning dry-cell and
rechargeable batteries. Current legislative
topics include mercury in batteries, batteries for cordless tools and appliances and
battery recycling.
Mercury will have to be eliminated from
batteries. This will probably reduce the performance and increase the cost. Batteries
in cordless power tools and appliances will
have to be removable.
Be sure you know the laws regarding these
topics in your area.
the potential for shock. With polarized
plugs, one blade is wider than the other.
Three-conductor plugs are automatically
polarized because they can only be inserted one way. Two-prong plugs do not have
a grounding pin.
Older homes may not have polarized
receptacle outlets. If not, the receptacles
will not accept polarized plugs. A qualified
electrician should replace the old receptacles and put in wiring consistent with
polarization.
Choose the plug based on the gauge of
wire on the appliance or tool. Male plugs
have prongs while female connectors have
slots.
There are plugs for different applications, such as exterior, interior and
marine. A twist lock prevents accidental
disconnection.
Attachment plugs fit on the ends of
cords of portable appliances and permit
SPECIFICATIONS FOR
CYLINDRICAL BATTERIES
AA (Penlight) . . . . . . . . . .1.2**, 1.4*, 1.5
AAA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.5
C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.2**
D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.2**, 1.4*, 1.5
N . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1.5
*Mercury cell
**Nickel-cadmium cell
them to be connected to wall receptacles
or extension cords. Plugs and connectors
are used to build extension cords or for
replacement on extension cords.
The arrangements of slots and blades on
connectors, receptacles and plugs must
match the configuration of the devices
with which they will be used. The number
of slots or prongs on these devices must be
the same as the number of wires in associated cords.
Socket adapters screw into the socket,
while taps plug into the outlet.
Adapters are generally used for temporary application to provide two outlets
where a light socket is in use.
Taps are used to increase the number of
attachment plugs that can be used on a
single receptacle face.
Caution must be exercised when tapping additional attachment plugs into the
same line. If the power rating of the circuit is exceeded, fuses will blow (if the circuit is properly fused).
Multiple taps plug into existing outlets
and can accommodate four to six plugs.
Some come with built-in surge protectors.
Other types of taps are table and cube.
Plug-in strips feature multiple outlets
placed at regular intervals. If used in a
workshop, it should have grounded outlets
and be attached to a grounded circuit.
Quick-Clamp Devices
Quick-clamp devices do away with screw
terminals and the necessity of stripping
wire. If a plug needs replacing, insert the
cord into the clamping mechanism as
shown on the instructions. The clamp
forces the cord into the proper position
and onto sharp contact points that pierce
the insulation and make contact with the
conductors.
Clamp devices include both attachment
plugs and cord connectors of various
styles. They are used with portable lamps
and small appliances. They cannot be used
on kitchen or large appliances because of
their low amperage rating.
Wire Nuts/Connectors
Insulated wire nuts or connectors are
used to connect wire ends that have been
twisted together inside a lighting fixture
or box. The size of the wire nut or connector must correspond to the size wire being
used. Connectors are used to connect
heat-generating, small household appliances with heat-resistant neoprene-type
HPN cords.
The connectors are molded of strong,
heat-resistant materials and come in a
variety of styles, such as switchless,
armored (or heavily protected), side outlet
and monopull. All have spring cord protectors. An offset wing design on some
models provides increased torque with
reduced wear on fingers. A hex head
enables nut driver and automated use.
There are two standard sizes: 11/16" and
the miniature 1/2". Standard 11/16" connectors generally fit on irons and toasters.
The 1/2" connectors are for coffee makers,
corn poppers, some electric skillets and
other similar appliances.
TELEPHONES AND
ACCESSORIES
■ TELEPHONES
Consumers look at telephone purchases
much the same way as they look at other
home electronics purchases. They want a
quality product sold by a reputable retailer. Service backup is important because
telephone owners are responsible for their
own repairs, just as they are for any other
kind of equipment they own. If the telephone breaks, they take it back to the
store that sold it.
Telephones contain microprocessors and
other electronic parts. New and more
sophisticated features are being added.
As telephones become more complicated, they require more sales attention.
Consumers need to be shown how to use
the additional features. If they will be
installing, replacing or rewiring, they may
need instruction in these areas, too. To
stock the telephones and accessories most
needed in your market, study the demographics of the area. Cordless phones may
work well in suburban and rural homes,
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
21
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
but are sometimes subject to interference
in urban areas.
Beyond the basics, consumers can buy
cordless phones, automatic redialing
phones and combination clock-radio
phones.
Here are important points to keep in
mind when selling phones and accessories.
Telephone companies require consumers
to report their ringer equivalency number
(REN). This REN is published on the
instruction sheet or phone unit housing.
Standard phones have REN ratings of one.
Compact, low-cost models may have as
low as .7 REN or as high as 1.3 REN.
If the REN on one line exceeds 4.0, the
phones will not ring.
There are two basic types of phones:
pushbutton tone and dial pulse. The dialpulse phone looks like a pushbutton tone,
but its pushbuttons technically dial the
phone. It doesn't process a call as fast as
the pushbutton tone.
Dial pulse gives the convenience of the
pushbutton-tone type of dialing without
higher monthly costs. It should be noted
too that pushbutton-tone phones are
required to access long-distance services.
Consumers should also be aware that
installing a pushbutton-tone phone means
they must also be receiving this type of
service from the phone company.
Cordless telephone systems incorporate
a base station connected to the telephone
line and a wireless handset. The distance a
cordless phone will work away from the
base station varies. It may be as little as
50' or phones with antennas may work as
far away as 1,000'.
Elevating the base station and placing it
away from other reception barriers can
improve cordless phone performance. One
word of warning: In most cordless phones,
ringers are located in the earpiece. The
ring registers nearly 130 decibels, and if
the phone is picked up and the switch not
turned from “standby” to “talk” position,
a phone ring could damage hearing.
Cordless phones are powered by
rechargeable nickel-cadmium or nickelmetal hydride batteries. The length of
time required to recharge and the length
of time between rechargings will vary.
Therefore, it is necessary to read the
instructions with the individual product to
see how long to charge and how sensitive
the battery is to frequent rechargings.
Some nickel-cadmium batteries will
“remember” how much time elapsed
between chargings and if they are
recharged too often, will shorten the
length of time they hold a charge.
Eventually the batteries will have to be
replaced, but most phones will take several
hundred chargings.
■ ACCESSORIES
Accessories are available in either “modular” or “conventional” designs.
Installation of a conventional system
requires no more than a screwdriver.
Accessories are used in conjunction with
standard telephones, using standard fourprong plug configuration, spade-tipped
wires or hard wiring.
All wiring in the phone base, handset
and wall receptacle can be replaced by
matching the coloured wires. But it is
important that store employees know
enough to help d-i-yers with wiring information and connection procedures on the
models you stock.
Plugs and jacks provide the connection
for standard telephone and extension cord
hook-ups. They may also be attached to
existing cords, adding versatility to existing phones.
No tools are needed for modular connections; the system was designed to allow
“snap-fit” connection of miniature plugs
with mating hardware. The following connections are available using the snap-fit
modular concept:
Coil cord—old cords can be removed by
depressing a clip and pulling the plug out of
the phone’s base and handset. The new cord
is then pushed into place until it locks.
Straight-line cords—plugs are clipped
into the base of the phone and the wall
receptacle.
Extension cords—cords are equipped
with modular plugs that snap into a wall
receptacle while a modular jack accepts
the line cord from the existing telephone.
Modular adapter—allows phones with
modular line cords to be plugged into a
four-pronged conventional plug that
matches the holes of conventional telephone jacks.
Modular plug and conventional jack—
allows connection of conventional fourpronged plug extended line cords to modular jacks so that conventional phones can
be plugged into modular connections.
Modular coupler—allows connection of
modular plug-ended cords to each other to
extend the phone system.
Duplex modular adapter—allows two
modular extensions to be run off one
modular unit. For instance, allows you to
connect a telephone and telephoneanswering device to the same phone line.
Retrofit modular adapter—allows conventional telephones with spade-tipped
conductors to be connected to modular
jack assemblies without tools.
Surface wall-mount jack assembly—
allows conversion of conventional terminal blocks to a modular jack.
Portable wall-mount jack assembly—
allows connection of modular plug-ended
line cords in any location to convert fourhole jack to a modular design.
Flush wall-mount jack assembly—allows
flush-mounted connection of plug-ended
modular line cords for initial installation
or conversion from existing wall receptacles. Can be connected in parallel when
more than one jack is required.
Wall-mount modular patio jack—weatherproof assembly accepts plug-end modular line cords.
■ ANSWERING DEVICES
The kind of telephone answering device
you recommend will depend in large part
on the kind of use the customer expects of
it. Models vary by price and optional features.
Basic digital units do not require a tape
recorder or tape to handle incoming messages. In most models, total answer time is
limited, but more sophisticated units will
allow for messages of varying lengths.
Features which differentiate models
include:
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
22
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
Leaving messages—some units permit
the user to leave a digital or tape-recorded
message.
Dictation—some units double as dictating machines with no time limit on
recording. A switch will stop and start the
answer tape.
Announce only—for messages that
require no response, such as announcements of when the owner will return.
Ring-response adjustment—allows
machine to wait to answer call until
phone has rung up to 10 times. An advantage since it eliminates connecting and
disconnecting unit each time owner leaves
and returns.
Remote pick-up—allows owner to pick
up messages from a distance by telephoning the answering unit.
Extended recording—allows user to
record a complete two-way conversation
without being cut off after allotted message time.
Monitor—allows user to listen, undetected, to incoming messages as callers
leave them. Listener can pick up phone
and interrupt recording message, if
desired, or simply let it be recorded.
Some phone companies still require an
Authorized Protective Connection Module,
if the answering device could produce
excess voltage on the telephone line. The
APCM plugs directly into the phone jack.
■ BATTERIES
General-purpose and heavy-duty battery
systems serve a variety of functions. Generalpurpose batteries provide 1.5V to 510V. They
have good shelf life but decreased efficiency
at high-current drains. They drop voltage
gradually with use and operate poorly in low
temperatures. They are available in a variety
of shapes from small pen cells to huge emergency lighting batteries. Their uses range
from camera flashbulbs to radios and flashlights.
General-purpose and heavy-duty batteries
are designed for light moderate to heavy-current drain equipment. They, too, are available in a variety of sizes and shapes providing from 1.5V to 9V. They have a good shelf
life and maintain voltage better under load
GLOSSARY OF ELECTRICAL TERMS
ALTERNATING CURRENT—Abbreviated “AC.” A current of electricity that alternates at a rate of
60 hertz (cycles per second). It flows first in one direction, then in the other. Only at very low frequencies is this charge visible to the eye through the flickering of lamps.
AMPERE—Abbreviated “amp.” A measure of the flow of electrical current through a wire.
BALLAST—A form of transformer used in fluorescent lamp circuits to control current and keep it
within specific operating limits.
CANDLEPOWER—A measure of the intensity of light produced by a source. One candlepower
corresponds approximately to the light produced in any one direction by an ordinary candle.
DIRECT CURRENT—Abbreviated “DC.” A flow of electric current continues in one direction as
long as the circuit is closed.
FOOTCANDLE—The unit used to measure how much total light is reaching a surface, such as a
wall or table. One footcandle is the amount of illumination falling on a one-square-foot surface
from a standard candle located 1 foot away.
FUSE—A replaceable safety device used to break the flow of current when a circuit becomes
overloaded.
GROUNDING—Connects the electrical system with the earth to prevent damage or shock.
Ground wires are usually bare.
HOT WIRE—A power-carrying wire (usually in red or black) as distinguished from the “neutral”
wire (usually white).
KILOWATT—1,000 watts. From “watt” and Greek word “kilo,” meaning 1,000.
KILOWATT HOURS—Abbreviated “kwh.” A 1,000-watt lamp burning one hour will use one kilowatt hour of electricity. If the rate were 3 cents per kwh, the cost would be 3 cents per hour to
operate.
LAMP—Technical word meaning light bulb or tube—the part that shines until it burns out. It
can also refer to a type of fixture, such as a desk lamp.
LUMEN—A unit that expresses the total quantity of light given off by a source regardless of
direction. A lumen is defined as the amount of light falling on a surface of one square foot, every
point of which is one foot away from a source of one candlepower.
NEUTRAL WIRE—A wire that runs from an appliance or device to make uninterrupted connection back to the power source. The opposite of a “hot” wire that carries power from the electrical source to the appliance.
NOMINAL LAMP LIFE—A rated average bulb life that is obtained through closely controlled
tests.
OHM—A unit of electrical resistance. (Electrical resistance is the opposition by a material to the
flow of electrical current.)
TRANSFORMER—Steps up or steps down amount of alternating current available from circuit to
that required by the appliance.
VOLT—Amount of pressure needed to push electricity through a wire.
WATT—The unit of measurement of electrical power. Calculated by multiplying volts times
amperes. For instance, 746 watts equal one electrical horsepower.
than general-purpose batteries. They are used
in flashlights, calculators, motor-driven toys,
electronic games and portable compact disc
players.
Alkaline batteries are the longest-lasting
all-purpose batteries. They are designed for
high- and continuous-current drain applications. Voltage ranges from 1.5V to 9V. The
average cell holds 90 percent of its energy for
two to three years on the shelf. Alkaline batteries are disposable and operate well in low
temperatures. Uses include tape recorders,
remote controls, portable communications
systems, radios, television sets and shavers.
Lithium batteries are more expensive but
can hold their power for eight to 10 years,
unused. They are designed for cameras,
watches and other items that use a small
amount of current repeatedly over a long
period of time. They are available in 9V.
Heavy-duty batteries have a short life
compared to alkaline batteries and work best
for low-drain applications such as remote
controls and wall clocks.
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
23
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
Miniature zinc air batteries are designed
to provide power to miniature hearing
aids. They can be directly substituted for
silver oxide or mercuric oxide batteries in
most hearing aid applications. They are
activated by removing the covering from
the air access hole. They are available in
common hearing aid battery sizes.
Improved cell construction and
advanced use of titanium and lithium
technology have resulted in new premium
batteries that offer long-lasting performance for use in high-drain devices.
Nearly 80 percent of all batteries sold
are in the AA and AAA sizes. Some batteries come with a gauge-style tester so the
user knows how much power remains in
the battery.
Household batteries should be stored in
a dry place at room temperature. Make
sure not to mix battery types in the same
device and never mix new and old batteries in the same device. Do not dispose of
any battery type in a large group since
they can come into contact with one
another. Always take precautions when
handling exposed battery chemicals.
Battery chemicals should not be placed
near the eyes or ingested by any means.
Mercury Batteries
Mercury (and silver) batteries are used
to power hearing aids, electronic watches,
calculators and other electronic equipment
where small size and long life are critical.
They maintain a constant voltage for the
entire life cycle.
Concern over the environment has led
manufacturers to design mercury-free batteries for household use.
Rechargeable Batteries
Although nickel-cadmium (Ni-Cd) batteries are most commonly used in rechargeable
applications, other kinds are available,
including alkaline and lead-acid. The major
drawback to rechargeable alkaline batteries
is fewer recharging cycles. Nickel-metal
hydride (Ni-MH) batteries have emerged as
a viable alternative to Ni-Cd batteries since
they outlast Ni-Cd batteries by up to 40 percent.
Ni-MH cells are available in AA, AAA, C,
D and 9-volt sizes. Ni-MH batteries offer
superior performance for use with highdrain applications such as flash cameras
(including digital) and camcorders.
Rechargeable batteries are not charged
before purchase and must be charged for
approximately eight to 12 hours before
using. Some rechargeable batteries are now
available with shorter charging times.
Rechargeable batteries will lose their charge
if not used for an extended period (30 to 60
days) and should be charged every month
for best performance. Some batteries can be
recharged 800 to 1,000 times and will last
up to four years.
They offer “overcharge” capability, which
means they can stay on house current for
long periods without damaging the cell.
Like mercury batteries, nickel-cadmium cells
maintain constant voltage for their full life
span.
Nickel-cadmium batteries are permanently built into a number of cordless
tools and appliances. In addition to the
larger batteries, nickel-cadmium batteries
are available in D, C, AA, AAA and 9V
sizes with chargers.
Battery recharging systems include the
charger and charging module. The module
is available in four sizes to hold AA, C, D or
9V batteries. The charger should be used
only with batteries specifically designated as
rechargeable. These are sometimes known as
secondary batteries. Trying to charge nonrechargeable batteries can cause leakage and
possible cell rupture.
Lead-acid batteries are built into tools.
These batteries, about the size of a D battery, won’t leak, don’t vent explosive gas or
corrosive fumes, offer lengthy shelf life and
cost about half as much as nickel-cadmium.
Life span is 200 to 500 cycles, but they will
lose power gradually with age and use.
A national program has been started to
recycle rechargeable batteries. Retailers can
participate at no cost.
The split-phase motor is the simplest. It
contains no brushes or commutator and
comes in one-third or less horsepower. At
full speed, the split-phase motor is able to
develop as much power as any other type,
but it is not capable of starting heavy
loads such as pumps or compressors. It
functions best when maximum load is
applied at full speed, such as in sanders,
grinders and light power tools.
Universal motors do not run at a constant speed but slow as the load increases
in some instances from 15,000 rpm without a load to 500 rpm under heavy load.
For this reason the motor is unsuitable
for many jobs. It is used only where the
load is reasonably constant and predetermined, such as in sewing machines, vacuum
cleaners, fans, etc. It is the only type of
motor that can be controlled by a rheostat.
Electric Motors
There are two basic motors found most
frequently in household applications—
split phase and universal.
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
24
CANADIAN IMPERIAL AND METRIC MEASUREMENTS
Canadians generally use a
mixture of measurement units.
Liquid volumes are typically
based on the metric (SI) system. Temperatures and distances are commonly specified
using metric terminology.
Weights, depending on the
type of product, use either the
metric or Canadian Imperial
system. Lengths and dimensions of construction products,
particularly for residential use,
are generally in Canadian
Imperial measurements. And
many of the products we use
are manufactured in U.S.
measurements.
Canadian building codes are
written using metric units. But
the construction trades, particularly those in residential construction, typically use the
Canadian Imperial system.
This mixture of measurement
systems frequently results in
many product manufacturers
providing information using
both systems. Unfortunately,
the approaches used in pre-
senting the “converted” measurements are not consistent.
Some information is based on
“exact” conversion measurements, whereas other information is based on “rounded”
measurements.
From your perspective and in
communicating with your customer, it is important to recognize that in some instances the
exact conversion is necessary
and in other instances a more
“rounded” conversion is
appropriate.
CONVERSION FACTORS
1 inch (in.)
=
25.4 mm
32 fluid ounces - US (oz.)
=
1 US qt.
1 foot (ft.)
=
0.3048 m
40 fluid ounces - Canadian (oz.)
=
1 Canadian qt.
1 yard (yd.)
=
0.9144 m
1 mile (mi.)
=
1.609 km
1 fluid ounce - US (oz.)
=
29.6 mL
1 fluid ounce - Canadian (oz.)
=
22.8 mL
236mL
1 ounce - avoirdupois (oz.)
=
28.35 g
1 cup - US (cup)
=
1 pound - avoirdupois (lb.)
=
0.454 kg
1 cup - Canadian (cup)
=
227mL
1 quart - US (qt)
=
0.946 L
1.136 L
1 pound per square inch (psi)
=
6.895 kN/m2
1 quart - Canadian (qt)
=
1 pound per square foot (psf)
=
0.04788 kPa
1 gallon - US (gal.)
=
3.785 L
1 gallon - Canadian (gal.)
=
4.546 L
Celsius temperature = (Fahrenheit temperature - 32) / 1.8
SOME TYPICAL MEASUREMENTS FOR HARDWARE AND FASTENER PRODUCTS
(“rounded” conversions)
Length
in.
1
/32
1
/8
Length
3
/8
1
/2
5
/8
3
/4
Length
Weight
mm
in.
0.8
1 /8
3.2
1 /2
6.4
2
51
72
1.8
12
3.7
50
22.7
9.5
4
102
84
2.1
18
5.5
100
45.4
12.7
12
305
90
2.3
25
7.6
750
340
15.9
18
457
120
3.0
50
15.2
1250
567
3
mm
in.
m
ft.
m
lbs
kg
35
48
1.2
7.5
2.3
1
0.45
38
60
1.5
10
3.0
10
4.5
1
1
/4
Length
19.1
24
610
156
4.0
75
22.9
1900
862
/8
22.2
30
762
216
5.5
100
30.5
2650
1202
1
25.4
36
914
312
7.9
5000
2268
7
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
25
ELECTRICAL SUPPLIES
The course was first developed by the North American Retail
Hardware Association (NRHA) and the Home Center Institute (HCI)
under the direction of a project coordinator and a number of
authors. Several U.S. based companies provided industry specific
information.
This second Canadian Edition of the ACHR is based on NRHA/HCI’s
14th Edition. It has been extensively modified and rewritten with
the help of Carl R. Wilson & Associates Ltd. (CRWAL) so as to
reflect Canadian products and construction practices. We also
acknowledge the many Canadian organizations and companies
that provided information for this Canadian edition of the
Advanced Course in Hardware Retailing (ACHR) and the Building
Material Product Knowledge Course (BMPK).
Because local codes and regulations vary greatly, you are reminded
to check with local experts and authorities on which codes,
regulations and practices apply in your area.
Copyright© 2004 by NRHA. All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
any system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without
prior written permission of the publisher.
Though the information in this course is intended to be
accurate and useful, the authors, editors, publishers,
CRHA and CRWAL and their directors, officers, agents
and employees will not be liable for any damage whatsoever that might occur from any use of this material.
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES
26