Download Culture - Missouri State University

Culture:
Transplanting, Soil,
Irrigation, Mulching,
Fertilizing, Pruning,
Dividing, Containers
When to Transplant
• Water Transplants a few Hours before
Planting them
• Protect Roots from the Sun and Wind
• Best to Set Plants out in late Afternoon on
a Cloudy Day, or just before a Rain
Transplanting
• Firm the Soil around the Plant
– Avoid Injuring Tender Stems
How to Transplant
• Set slightly Deeper
than It Was Growing
in the Seedling Flat
or Container
• Exceptions Exist
Transplanting
• Water thoroughly immediately after
Transplanting
– Prevents excessive Wilting
– Settles Soil around Roots
• Apply Fertilizer Starter Solution when
Watering In
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Soil Test
• Sometimes Conditions in Soil Do not
Provide for Good Plant Growth
Soil Test
• Take several Subsamples (about 1 Trowel full)
of Soil from a Bed with similar Soil Type
• Samples should include Soil throughout Root
Zone
Soil Test
• If more than 1 Type of Soil Is Present, Collect
different Samples for each Type
• Send Samples to Soil Testing Lab for Analysis of
Soil pH and N, P and K Levels, sometimes
– Usually Top 6 Inches
Micronutrient Levels and Salinity
• Combine Subsamples in Bucket and Mix, then
Allow to Dry
Soil Test
• Soil Test Provides Info that may help Diagnose
Soil pH
• Optimum Soil pH for Most
some Plant Problems and Help Grower Avoid
Plants Is 5.5 to 6.5 because
new Problems
this Is pH Range when most
• Soil Test Kits OK to Test some Soil
Characteristics but not always Accurate
Soil Nutrients Are Available
to Plants
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Soil pH
• Most Soils in Southwest Missouri Are
either in Appropriate Range or Are
Adjusting Soil pH
• If pH Is too Low
– Add Lime
slightly to moderately Acidic
Adjusting Soil pH
• If pH Is too High
• Add Sulfur or Peat Moss
Adjusting Soil pH
• Till in Generous Amounts of Sphagnum
Peat Moss (1/3 Peat : 2/3 Soil or ½ Peat
: ½ Soil) to Bed prior to Planting, then
Maintain Fertilization with an Acidifying
Fertilizer
Some Plants Prefer Fairly Acidic
Soils
• May Need to Lower Soil pH Values for
Species that Require Acidic Soil to Ensure
Adequate Uptake of Iron
– Azaleas and other Rhododendrons
– Heathers
Importance of Organic Matter
(OM)
• Soils Higher in OM
Tend to Provide better
Plant Growth
• Soil Tests can Provide
the Percent OM in Soil
– Acidic Woodland or Wetland Flowers
http://www.soilfoodweb.com/sfi_html/02_approach/micro_pix/07_active_fungi.html
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Importance of (OM)
• If OM Level Is Low
• Sphagnum Peat Moss, Composted Peat, Composted
Leaves, Garden Compost can Be Added and Worked
into Soil
Importance of (OM)
• Benefits of Adding of OM
– Soil Nutrition
– Soil Nutrient-Holding Capacity when Fertilizers Are
Applied
• Organic Mulches such as Sawdust, Grass Clippings
and Shredded Bark will also Add OM to Soil,
especially if Bed Is Tilled and New Mulch Applied
each Year or Periodically
– Soil Aeration and Drainage
– Beneficial Soil Microbes
– Soil Water-Holding Capacity
Poor Drainage
• Poor Drainage may Occur when Garden
Area Is in Low Spot, Soil Is Compacted or
Soil Is Naturally Poorly Drained
Poor Drainage
• Solutions
1. Grow Adapted Plants…usually less
Labor and Care Needed to Maintain
Plants
– Stephen Still’s Herbaceous Plants
Contains List of Plants that Grow in Moist
or Wet Soils
Poor Drainage
2. Install Drainage Tiles
Poor Drainage
4. Add OM to help
that Drain to Area of
Improve Aeration
Lower Elevation than
while Allowing Soil
Garden
to Hold Moisture
3. Fill In Area to
Encourage Runoff—
Beware of Creating
new Low Spots
5. Till Soil of
Compacted Areas
and Add OM
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Poor Drainage
6. Make Raised Beds
• Railroad Timbers, Rocks, Brick
Edges to Allow Adding a Layer
of Soil at least 6 Inches Thick
Rocky Soils
• Seem Discouraging for Flower Gardens
but Soil between the Rocks in Ozarks Is
Good Quality
above the Existing Grade to
Provide Good Drainage
• May Cause Alternate Low
Spots
Rocky Soils
• Considerations
– Obtain Soil Test to Determine if Lime
Needed
Rocky Soils
• Considerations
– Monitor Soil Moisture and Irrigate as
Needed
– Add OM to Help Rocky Soils Retain
•Many Rocky Soils Dry Quickly so
Moisture and Provide Better Nutrient-
Plants may Require more Frequent
Holding Capacity
Irrigation
Rocky Soils
• Considerations
– Grow Adapted Plants
– Some Native Plants,
Herbs and other
Perennials Prefer
Drier, Rocky Soils
Rocky Soils
• Considerations
– Build Raised Bed with Fill that Is less
Rocky
•If Existing Soil Tends to Be Dry,
Raised Bed will Be Dry also, so
Provide Adequate Moisture
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Compacted Soils
• Usually Found in Areas of
High Foot or Vehicle
Traffic or where
Pavement Has Been
Removed to Establish a
Compacted Soils
• Add OM to Help Improve Soil Aeration
• Remove Source of Compaction to
Maintain Good Growing Area after Soil
Has Been Tilled or Dug
Planting Bed
• Deep Tilling or DoubleDigging Is Best Solution
Double Digging
• Purpose Is to Loosen the Topsoil and Subsoil
so Plant Roots can Grow Unrestricted and
Water can Readily Percolate through the Soil
• Soak the Area where the Digging Will Take
Place with Water a Day or Two Prior to
Digging Unless It Has Rained Recently
• Use a Square Spade to Dig a Trench 1 Foot
Wide and 1 Foot Deep down the Entire
Length of the Bed
• Toss the Excavated Soil into a Wheelbarrow
or Garden Cart, or Toss Soil Aside
Double Digging
• When the Digging Is Done, Apply a 2to 3-Inch Layer of Compost on Top of
the Bed, and Gently Work It into the
Top 6 Inches of Soil
• If You Add Compost between the Soil
Layers in the Trenches as well as on
Top of the Bed, You Raise the Bed
Roughly 6 Inches above the Original
Soil Level
• Once You Double-Dig a Bed, Don't
Walk on It
Double Digging
• With the Trench Complete, Stab a Spading
Fork into the Subsoil, Rocking It Back and
Forth, to Loosen the Subsoil down to a
Depth of 1 Foot (if possible)
• Spread a 2- to 3-Inch Layer of Compost over
the Exposed Subsoil
• Move over 1 Spade's Width in the Bed, and
Begin to Dig out another Trench, But This
Time Toss the Excavated Soil into the
Adjacent Trench You Just Added Compost to
• Place the Soil from the First Trench into the
Last Trench
Weedy Soils
• Control Weeds before Planting
– Repeated Tilling to Destroy
Weeds as they Emerge
– Application of Non-Selective,
Short-Residual Herbicide
(Glyphosate)
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Weedy Soils
• Control Weeds before Planting
– Cover Crops that Are Tilled into Soil
– Plastic Mulches to Smother and Heat
Kill Weeds and some Seed
Weedy Soils
• Control of Weeds after Planting
– Use Weed Barrier Fabric in Perennial
Beds, usually Topped with Mulch for
Appearance
– Organic Mulches 2 to 3 Inches Thick in
Annual Beds
Weedy Soils
• Control of Weeds after Planting
– Use Pre-Emergence Herbicides
(Dacthal, Preen, Surflan, Ronstar) to
Weedy Soils
• Pre-Emergence Herbicide + Mulch Is
Great 2-Step Weed Control Practice
• Some Pre-Emergence Herbicides must Be
Control Annual Grasses and Broad
Applied again in Midsummer to Maintain
Leaves before they Emerge from the
Weed Suppression (Read and Follow
Soil
Herbicide Label)
– Must Be Applied before Weeds Are Up
Weedy Soils
• Use Post-Emergence Herbicide (Poast,
Ornamec) to Control Grassy Weeds such
Weedy Soils
• Hoeing
• Tilling
as Bermudagrass
• Avoid Use of Grass-Killing Herbicides in
Beds Planted with Ornamental Grasses
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Why Plants Require Water
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Cell Enlargement (Growth)
Photosynthesis
Cooling
Transpiration
Transport of Substances inside Plant
Solution for Plant Reactions
Part of many Chemical Reactions
Drought Stress
• Periodic, Short-Term Stress can Increase Root Development while
slightly Reducing Shoot Growth
– Helps Plant Withstand future Water Stresses
– Heat Shock Proteins
• Continuing Stress
– Reduces Growth/Cell Elongation
– Closes Stomates
– Results in Wilting (at first just at Mid-Day, then Continuous)
– Causes Leaf, Flower, Fruit Loss
– Leads to Stem then Root Death
Drought Stress
• Partial Water Stress
– Stunts Plants
– Reduces Flower Number and Size
– Causes early Flower Abscission
• Stress Caused by Excessive Water
– Reduces Root and Entire Plant Growth
• No Oxygen for Respiration
– Causes Root Damage
• Plant may Wilt, even in Wet Soil
– Enhances Disease Problems
• Damping-Off
Watering in the Landscape
Methods to Apply Water in the Landscape
• Most Plants Need about 1 Inch of Water
per Week in 1 to 2 Applications
• Apply only as Much as the Soil can
Absorb; Avoid Runoff or Excessive Puddling
• Usually Apply in Evening or Early Morning to Reduce
Evaporation
– Evening Watering may Promote Foliar Disease Problems
• Annuals and Blooming Perennials usually Require more
Water than non-Blooming Perennials or Native Plants
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Surface Irrigation
Overhead Watering
• Flood or Furrow
Irrigation
• Allow Water to Flow
along Crop Rows or
Flood Crop Area
• Used Commercially
• Seldom Used by
• Sprinkler Systems
or Soaker Hoses
• Must Check Water
Application and
Distribution
Homeowners
Trickle/Drip Irrigation
• Continuous Trickle of
Water near Plant Roots
• Very Efficient—usually
Less Water Used and
Less Evaporation
Reducing Water Use in the
Horticultural Landscape
• Select Drought-Resistant Species or Cultivars
• Use Mulch
• Control Weeds, Diseases, Insects
• Avoid Irrigating Midday on Hot, Dry Days (except to Cool)
• Encourage Deep Rooting by Infrequent, Deep Watering
• May Apply Fertilizers
and Pesticides through
• Use Proper Fertility
– Adequate K, not too much N
System if Labeled
Drainage
• Maintain a Slight Slope to Encourage Runoff but Make Sure
Garden is Planted to Avoid Erosion
• Use a Tile Drainage System if Runoff Grading Is not
Possible
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Mulching
• Application of a Covering Layer of Material
to the Soil Surface
Important Types of Mulches
• Organic
– Hay, Straw, Lawn
Clippings, Leaves,
Sawdust
– Do not Affect Soil
Temp to the Extent of
Synthetic Mulches
– Gradual
Decomposition can
Add OM to Soil
Important Types of Mulches
• Organic
– Can Be Time-Consuming
to Apply
Important Types of Mulches
• Aluminum Foil
– Reflected Light may Increase Photosynthesis
and Repel Aphids
– May Introduce Weeds
and Create Environment
for Slugs and Rodents
– Components with High C
: N Require N for
Decomposition
Important Types
of Mulches
Important Types
of Mulches
• Plastic
– Chiefly Polyethylene
• Reflective (Colored) Mulch
– Clear, Black, White or Colored
– Wavelength Selective
– Various Thicknesses
– Reflect Wavelengths of Light into the Plant
Canopy to Influence Plant Growth and
Production
– Control of Insect Populations
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Effects of Mulches
• Soil Moisture
– Mulches Increase
Efficiency of Plant
Water Use by
Reducing
Evaporation of Soil
Moisture and
Controlling Weeds
Effects of Mulches
• Mineral Nutrients
– Organic Mulches may Supply Nutrients as
They Decompose, but Tend to Deplete Soil N
due to Use of the N by Soil Organisms
Breaking down the Mulches
Effects of Mulches
• Protects Plants from Soil Contamination
– Reduces Losses from certain Diseases
– Keeps Foliage and Flowers Cleaner
Effects of Mulches
• Mineral Nutrients
– Mulches may Reduce Leaching and Reduce
Competition for Nutrients (Weed Control)
– May Be Difficult to Sidedress a Mulched Crop
Effects of Mulches
• Maintain or Improve Soil Structure and
Control Erosion
– However, Plastic may Sometimes Increase
Erosion due to Runoff Problems
Effects of Mulches
• Weed Control
– Any Opaque Mulch greatly Reduces Weed
Growth
– Clear Plastic Favors Weed Growth, so Use of
Herbicides Is Essential
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Effects of Mulches
Effects of Mulches
• Weed Control
• Soil Temperatures
– Organic Mulches may Introduce Weed Seeds
– Weed Control between Strips of Plastic Is
Difficult
– Organic Mulches
Shade (Cool) the
Soil and Decrease
Soil Temp
Fluctuations
Essential Elements
for Plant Growth
Major Elements
Major Elements
Major Elements
• Living Plants
Require 16 to
17 Essential
Elements to
Survive
• Each of the Essential Elements Has at
least 1 Specifically Defined Role in Plant
Growth
Major Elements
Major Elements
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Major Elements
Major Elements
• Plants Fail to Grow and Reproduce
Normally in Absence of the Element
• C, H, O
– Obtained from CO2 and H2O
• Plus Six Mineral Elements: N, P, K,
Ca, Mg, S
Major Elements
Major Elements
Major Elements
Phosphorus
• Not very Mobile in Most Ag Soils
• The Building Blocks of Complex
Molecules like Proteins and Nucleic
Acids
• Fixed in Soils with Ca (in Acid Soils with Al
or Fe)
Phosphorus
Phosphorus
Phosphorus
Phosphorus
• Normally, enough P will Be Available to
Crop during Growing Season even though
Soil Has High P-Fixing Capacity
• Newly-Planted Plants may Respond to
Starter Solution Containing P, especially in
Cold Planting Seasons
Phosphorus
Potassium
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Potassium
Potassium
• Not generally Considered Mobile
Element in Soils but can Leach in
Coarse, Sandy Soils
• Clay and Loam Soils often Contain
adequate K
Potassium
Nitrogen
Nitrogen
Nitrogen
• Element most Likely to Be Deficient in
Plants
• Element most Likely to Produce
Growth Response
• Highly Mobile in most Soils
Nitrogen
Minor Elements
Minor Elements
Minor Elements
• All Are Mineral Nutrients and Are generally
Required in small Quantities
• Fe, B, Mn, Cu, Mo, Zn, Cl, Ni
Minor Elements
• Most of these Elements Are Enzyme
Activators
• Relatively Small Excesses of these Elements
may Be Toxic to Plants
Nutritional Problems
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Nutritional Problems
Fertilization
• Possible Causes
– Deficiencies,
Excesses or
Imbalances of
Nutrients in Root
Environment
– pH
– Water Quality
Nutritional Problems
Fertilizers
Fertilizers
Fertilizers
• Provide Nutrients Needed by Plants to
Grow Properly
• Excess Fertilizer Is Wasted and can Cause
Physical Injury or Death to Plants
• Inadequate Fertility Starves Plants
Fertilizers
Inorganic vs. Organic
Organic vs. Inorganic
Terminology
• Plants Take Up Elements in Inorganic
Ionic Form, regardless of Form
Applied or Supplied to the Plant
Organic vs. Inorganic
• Grade/Analysis (% of the product by
weight)
– N, P2O5, K2O
Fertilizer Terminology—Conversions
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Terminology
Terminology
• Conversions Used in the Field (Rounded):
– P2O5 x 0.44 = P
• Ratio
– 5-10-10 Has 1-2-2 Ratio
– K2O x 0.83 = K
Fertilizer Terminology—Conversions
Bulk Blends
How Much Fertilizer to Use
Liquid Fertilizers
• Bulk Blends (Custom Available)
• Used chiefly in Micronutrient Sprays
– Sometimes more Efficient than Bags
• Also Starter Solution for Transplants
– Especially if You Have Plenty of some
Element in your Soil
Liquid Fertilizers
Liquid Fertilizers
Liquid Fertilizers
Liquid Fertilizers
• Can’t Get in all the N the Plant Needs via Spray
• Fertigation
– Inject Fertilizer into Irrigation System
• Leaf will Get Salt Damage long before Get
Enough
– Largely Used as a Supplement, not main
Source of Micros
Liquid Fertilizers
Fertilizing Commercial Vegetables
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Fertilizer Rates
Fertilizers
• Sandy Soils usually Require Lower Rates
of Fertilizer more frequently than FineTextured Soils
• Fertilizer may Be Limiting Factor
Preventing maximum Benefit from
other Inputs (Irrigation, Pest Control,
Harvesting)
Fertilizer Major Factor Limiting Growth
Methods of Application
and Placement
• Preplant
– Broadcast over Surface and Mixed with Soil
Methods of Application
Banding
• Application Near Seed or Plant Is Efficient
• Usual Method Is 2 to 3 Inches beside and 2
to 3 Inches below the Seed or Plant
– Applied in a Band beside the Seed or Transplant
Methods of Application—Broadcast
Sidedress
Methods of Application—Banding
Topdressing
• Fertilizer Placed beside Growing Plant
• Used to Supplement Preplant Fertilizer
• Application to a Growing Crop without
Disturbing the Soil
• Need Water Source to Incorporate the
Fertilizer
– Move It into Root Zone
Methods of Application—Sidedress
Methods of Application—Topdress
17
Topdressing
Topdressing
• Urea Applied to a Hot, Moist Soil Surface
must Be Followed by Irrigation or
Incorporation if possible to Reduce Loss of
N to the Atmosphere
• High Salt Dry Fertilizers (Ammonium
Nitrate) can Damage Plant Foliage if
Applied as Top Dressing
• Urea less Damaging, usually
Methods of Application—Topdress
Topdressing
Methods of Application—Topdress
Starter Fertilizer
• Urea Applied to Dry Soil Is Stable for 10
Days or More
• Dilute Rate Applied with Water at
Transplanting
• Generally Consists of a Soluble Low N,
High P Analysis
• N Tends to Improve P Uptake, particularly
during Spring Transplanting in Cold Soils
Starter Fertilizer
Starter Fertilizer
Starter Fertilizer
Foliar Spray
• 3 lbs. of 15-30-15 or 10-52-17 in 50 Gal.
Water, 1 Cup per Plant, Is adequate for
most Transplants
• Most Effective for Correcting Special
Fertility Problems as they Develop
– eg: Trace Element Deficiencies
Foliar Spray
Foliar Spray
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Fertigation
Slow-Release Fertilizers
• Apply Fertilizer to Growing Crop
through the Irrigation Water
• Includes Sulfur-Coated Urea or other
Forms that Supply the Portion of N
that the Plant Requires
• Drip, Furrow or Sprinkle Irrigation can
Be Used
Fertigation
Slow-Release Fertilizers
Slow-Release Fertilizers
Nitrogen Forms
• Nitrate-N readily Available but Is easily
Leached, especially in Sandy Soils
• More Expensive than other Forms of
Fertilizer
Slow-Release Fertilizers
Nitrogen Forms
Nitrogen Forms
• Ammonium Forms Convert to Nitrate in Soil
– Time Varies but usually 3-4 Days
• Lower Soil Temp Reduces Conversion Rate
Tillage
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Staking
• Keep Tall Perennials
from Falling over
• Especially Heavy
Bloomers
• Wire Hoops
• Wooden or Bamboo
Stakes
• Tomato Cages
• Remove Growing Tips to Force Growth
lower down on the Stems
– Breaks Apical Dominance
– Get Bushier, Compact, Stronger Plant
– Helps Prevent Weak, Leggy Growth
• Remove Terminal Bud and 1st Set of
Leaves
• Don’t Pinch too Late in Season
– May Remove Flower Buds
Pinching
Disbudding
– Start when Shoots 8 Inches Long
– Pinch back by Half
– When New Shoots that Develop Are 8 Inches
Long, Pinch them back by Half
– Repeat Process
– No Pinching after July 15
• Remove Side Buds to Produce fewer but
Larger Flowers on the Plant
• Leave 1 Top or Terminal Bud
• Disbud when Side Buds are Large enough
to Handle (about size of a pea)
• Technique Used for Flowers Entered into
Contests where Size of Flower Is Judged
• Provide Focal Point in Landscape
• Mums
• Can Lengthen a Plant’s Bloom Time
– Pinch 1/3 of Stems each Week for 3 Weeks
Deadheading
•
•
•
•
Pinching
Removing Dying Flowers
Promotes more Blooms
Helps Extend Blooming Season
Many Perennials Bloom only a few Weeks
– Some will not Rebloom when Deadheaded
– Sometimes fewer and smaller Flowers 2nd Time
• Prevents Invasive Plants from Reseeding
• Some Plants Are Self-Cleaning
– Drop Flowers as they Begin to Fade
Pruning Herbaceous Plants
• Heading Back
– Remove Stems to just above a Bud
– Stagger Height of Buds on different Shoots for
Natural Look
– Can help Control Direction of new Growth
– Stimulates Development of smaller Shoots
and Buds lower on Stem for Denser Growth
– Remove no more than 25% of Top Growth on
Perennial in a single Season
20
Pruning Herbaceous Plants
• Thinning Perennial Stems
– Remove 1/3 of Stems at Ground Level when
Plant Is ¼ to 1/3 its Mature Size
– Increases Space between Stems
– Better Air Circulation and Light Penetration
into Canopy
– Removes Weak or Thin Stems
– Shapes a Plant
– May Increase Flower Size
– Rejuvenates Plant by Replacing older Stems
Pruning Herbaceous Plants
• Remove Dead, Diseased, Dying or
Damaged Shoots
• Remove any Basal Shoots that Arise from
Rootstock (not Desired Cultivar)
• Remove Weak Spindly Shoots
• Remove any Crossing Branches in Center
of Plant
Pruning Herbaceous Plants
• Cutting back a Declining Perennial to Force
Vigorous New Growth
• Remove Tattered or Discolored Growth in midSummer
• Help Control Height
• Prevent Plants from Becoming Woody or Lanky
• Cut back Annual Stems to Leave 4 or 5 Nodes
– Good for Leggy Annuals in mid-Summer
– Petunias, for eg.
Sanitation
• Pick up and Discard Plant Debris
– Pruned Foliage, Spent Flowers…
• Disease Control
Dividing
• Divide or Separate Individual Shoots or
Clusters of Shoots from a Single Clump
• Common Method to Propagate Popular
Perennial Flowers
• Rejuvenates Sprawling Perennials
• Iris and Daylily Bloom less if not Divided
every 2 to 4 Years
• May Affect Blooming of Remaining Plant
the next Year
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Division
• Root Ball Separated with Knife or Sharp
Shovel into several or Individual Stem
Sections with Attached Roots
• Replant Sections in Ground or
Containers
• Ornamental Grasses may Require
Knives, Machetes or Hatchets due to
Dense Crown and Fibrous Root Systems
Division
• Timing for Division Varies with Species
• General Rules
–
–
Divide Spring-Blooming Plants in Fall
Divide Fall-Blooming Plants in early Spring
Containers
• Good Alternative
– Patios, Decks and Porches
– Lack of Gardening Space
– Tender Specimen to Be Dug
up at End of Season
• Instant Focal Point
• Considerations
–
–
–
–
No Soil!
Right Size and Weight
Drainage
Decorative Value
Size
• Probably the Most Important Consideration
to a Horticulturist
• Large enough to not Restrict Root System
• Large enough to Accommodate the Pot
Size
• In Proportion to the Height and Width of
the Plant
• Selection of Plant and Planter Should Be
Made at Same Time
when Used as a Jardinière or in Double-
– Tall Plants Generally Look Better in a Tall Container
Potting
– Broad, Shrublike Specimens Best in Lower, Wider
[Jardinière—an ornamental stand for plants or flowers; a large, usually
ceramic, flowerpot holder]
Container
– Shallow Pots Deemphasize Height
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Decorative Value
Strength and Durability
• Sufficient Strength to Hold
• Considerations
the Plant and the Growing
– Style
Medium
– Color
– Texture
• Withstand Normal Wear and
– Proportions
• Choice Depends on the Plant and where It Is to Be
Placed
• Planters that Are Part of a Group should Match
Tear without Cracking or
Chipping
• Colorfast and Easy to Clean
Weight
• Plant + Wet Medium Adds Considerable Weight to
a Planter
– Make Sure Deck or other Flooring can Support the
Weight
• Container may Have to Be Moved periodically
• Containers may Need Additional Weight
Drainage
• Can but usually should not
Plant directly into Container
that Does not Have Drainage
– Have to Make Provisions for
Excess Water
– Medium cannot Be Leached, and
– Drafty or Windy Area
Fertilizer Practices may Have to
– Tall, Top-Heavy Specimen
Be Modified to Prevent Salt
Buildup
Materials for Containers
• Wooden Tubs, Boxes,
Barrels
– Cedar, Cypress,
Redwood, Exterior
Plywood…
– Redwood Is most
Popular
• Subject to Decay and may
Be Flammable
Wood
– Do not Treat with Creosote or certain
Preservatives
• Illegal unless Wood Is Sealed with 2 Coats of Appropriate
Sealant
• Toxic and may Injure or Kill Plants
• Creosote may Leach into Medium
• Fumes may Bleach Foliage
– 1st Symptoms Are Marginal and Tip Yellowing
• Foliage that Contacts Treated Wood Is especially Susceptible
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Wood
– Pressure-Treated Wood Contains Chemicals with low
Tendency to Leach into Medium
– Softwoods Treated with Brushed-on Preservatives Are
more Durable than non-Treated Wood but not as
Durable as Pressure-Treated Hardwoods
– Life of any Wood can Be Extended by Painting,
Varnishing, Staining
– To Prevent Dry Rot, Do not Paint Base
Clay or Terra-Cotta
• Porous and Permit Evaporation of Water
• Growing Medium Dries quickly, Requiring more frequent
Watering
• As much as 50% of Applied Water will Evaporate
directly through Sides of Clay Pots
• If Poor Growing Medium Is Used, Porous Clay Pots Allow
better Soil Aeration and Reduce Potential of Plant
Injury due to Watering too often
or Nonexposed Ends of Boards
Clay or Terra-Cotta
• Clay Is Heavy, especially after
Watering
– Breaks more Easily than Pots Made of
other Materials
• Dry Clay Planters Absorb Considerable
Amounts of Water; should Be Soaked
thoroughly before Using
Clay or Terra-Cotta
• Harder to Keep Clean than other
Containers
– Algae will Grow on constantly Moist Surface
– As Water Evaporates, Salts Are Deposited on Surface of
Clay, particularly near Rim
• Forms White Crust and Permanently Discolors the Pot
• Pores Allow Water Seepage, which may
Damage Wood underneath
Nonporous Planters
• Side Walls Impervious to Water
– Evaporation Is Reduced and less
Frequent Watering Is Necessary
Plastic
• Advantages
– Wide Range of Shapes,
Sizes, Colors, Designs
– More easily Overwatered
– Lightweight
– Air above Planter not as Humid as
– Less Expensive than Clay
with Clay because of Reduced
Evaporation
• Various Materials
– Watertight
– Colorfast
– May Be Painted
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Plastic
Plastic
• Disadvantages
• Advantages
– Strong and Shatter-Resistant
• Some Become Brittle and Crack
easily with Time, perhaps from
Exposure to UV Light or High
– Light may Penetrate Sides and Inhibit Root
Growth
– White Pots Acceptable when Placed inside
Opaque Jardinière
Temps
– Easily Cleaned
• Algae Do not Grow on Them
• Salts Do not Accumulate as much
as on Clay
Fiberglass
• Glass Fibers Embedded in a Plastic Resin,
Producing a Strong Planter with most of
the Virtues of Plastic
• Molded without Seams
Glazed Clay
• Similar to Clay but Evaporate
less Water because Surface
Is Sealed in Glazing Process
– Leak Proof and Colorfast
• Attractive and Available in virtually any Shape or
Color
Ceramic
Concrete
• Wide Variety of Shapes and
Sizes
• Infinite Colors and Textures
• Usually Heavy
• Fixed Planters of Concrete or Masonry
• Heavier than Plastic
frequently Used in Commercial Installations
• Little Water Evaporation
– If Possible, Drains should Be Built in to Remove
• Subject to Breakage
Excess Water
– Otherwise must Make Provision for Excess
Water when Planting
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Stone
• Usually Permanent Element
– Provisions Have Been Made for
the Weight
• Potential Mineral Toxicity
– Rarely Used for Direct Planting
Metal
• Brass Container, unless the
Inside Is Treated, should Have
Lining
– Copper from Brass Is Toxic
to Plants
• Aluminum Containers Make
Excellent Jardinières
Reed, Grass, Willow
• Baskets Available in wide Range
of Sizes, Shapes, Colors, Textures
• Organic so will Tend to Rot in Time
Reed, Grass, Willow
– Ways to Slow Rotting Process
• Watertight Inner Pots
• Saucers inside Basket under Pots to Catch
Drainage Water
• Line Base of Basket with Plastic
• Line Base and Lower Sides with several
Layers of Polyester Resin and Newspaper
Strips
Odds and
Ends
Odds and Ends
– Buckets
– ‘Big Mac’ Boxes
• Attic or Basement
– Waste Baskets
– Flue Liners
– Pots and Pans
– Building Blocks
• Flea Markets
– Cans
– Drain Tiles
– Barrels
– Sewer Pipes
– Washtubs
– Coal Scuttles
– TV Dinner Trays
– Milk Cans
– Milk Cartons
– Butter Churns
• Antiques Shops
– Margarine Containers
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Other Man-Made Materials
Hanging Planters
• Several Types Available
– Baskets with Saucers
– Planters without
Drainage
– Wire Baskets to Fill with
Sphagnum Moss to
Hanging Planters
• Hanging Planters Are Heavy
– 1 ft3 of Wet Soil may Weigh up to 90 Pounds
– Peat-Lite or Bark-Amended Potting Medium Weighs less
– Plastic or Fiberglass Containers will Reduce Weight
Load
– Hooks, Brackets, Cords should Be Strong
– Hangers that Allow Lowering Plant for Watering and
Contain the Medium and
Grooming Are Recommended for relatively Inaccessible
Roots
Locations
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