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WAVES
By: Bridget Pettit & Victor Perez
• Waves are a result of forces acting on the
surface of the water.
• GENERATIONG FORCES : is a forces (ie rock or
wind) that disturbs the waters surface, this
generating force moves outward away from the
point of the disturbance.
• The force that causes the water to
return to the undisturbed level is called
RESTORING FORCE.
• If the amount water that is displaced is
small, the restoring force is the surface
tension of the water, and the small
waves are referred to as CAPILLARY
WAVES.
• When the amount of water displaced is
quite sizeable, the restoring force is
gravity and the waves are referred to as
GRAVITY WAVES.
• Generating forces can be any event that
adds energy to the surface of the sea
• As the wind blows across the surface of still
water, it creates drag (Friction) that lifts
some of the water away from the surface.
• If the amount of water displaced is very
small, the surface tension of the water
pulls it back to restore a smooth surface,
and a series of ripples are formed.
• If the force of the air is greater than a small
breeze, more friction is created
• As the surface becomes rougher, it
becomes easier for the wind to add more
energy.
• The frictional drag between the air and the
water is increased.
• Ocean waves are generated by wind and
restored by wind and restored by
gravity, this is called PROGRESSIVE
WAVES.
• These type of waves Can be formed by
local store centers or by the prevailing
wind of the wind belts such as the trade
winds or westerlies.
• As wind waves are formed by the storm,
they are forced to increase in size and
speed by the input
• Of energy from the storm, sometimes
known as forced waves.
• PERIOD the time required for one
wavelength to pass a fixed point (wave
speed = wavelength/period)
• Long wavelengths and long periods = faster
movement that short of both.
• Eventually, escape a storm and appear as a
regular pattern of wave crests on the ocean’s
surface.
• The long period, uniform waves know as swells.
• They carry a great amount of energy and manage
to travel for 1000s of kilometers.
• DEEPWATER WAVES= waves that occur in
water that is deeper than one half of a wave’s
wavelength.
• Height is increased by wind speed, the
duration of wind, and the fetch.
• Large waves can be produced only by all three
of those factors being at a high production
number.
• A deep-water wave become a shallow water
wave when it enters shallow water.
• The friction that results from the orbit of the
wave dragging the bottom results in the slow
end of the wave.
• Speed and length of shallow water waves are
determine by the depth of the water.
• SURF ZONE= is the area along a
coast where waves slow down,
become steeper, break, and
disappear.
• BREAKERS= form in the surf zone
when the lower part of a wave is
slowed by friction with the
bottom but its crest continues
moving toward the shore at a
speed faster than that of the
wave.
• The two most common types of
breaker are plungers and spillers.
• Plungers form when the beach slope is steep.
• End up with a sudden loss of energy and a
splash.
• Spillers are more common and usually form on
flat beaches.
• Last longer because of the gradual movement
of slowing down.
• TSUNAMIS= sudden movements of the earth’s
crust produce earthquakes, which may
produce large seismic sea waves.
• A.K.A. Tidal Waves.
• End up in destruction and they form because
of the sudden increase from a small ocean
depth of the sea floor to a larger depth.