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WAVES By: Bridget Pettit & Victor Perez • Waves are a result of forces acting on the surface of the water. • GENERATIONG FORCES : is a forces (ie rock or wind) that disturbs the waters surface, this generating force moves outward away from the point of the disturbance. • The force that causes the water to return to the undisturbed level is called RESTORING FORCE. • If the amount water that is displaced is small, the restoring force is the surface tension of the water, and the small waves are referred to as CAPILLARY WAVES. • When the amount of water displaced is quite sizeable, the restoring force is gravity and the waves are referred to as GRAVITY WAVES. • Generating forces can be any event that adds energy to the surface of the sea • As the wind blows across the surface of still water, it creates drag (Friction) that lifts some of the water away from the surface. • If the amount of water displaced is very small, the surface tension of the water pulls it back to restore a smooth surface, and a series of ripples are formed. • If the force of the air is greater than a small breeze, more friction is created • As the surface becomes rougher, it becomes easier for the wind to add more energy. • The frictional drag between the air and the water is increased. • Ocean waves are generated by wind and restored by wind and restored by gravity, this is called PROGRESSIVE WAVES. • These type of waves Can be formed by local store centers or by the prevailing wind of the wind belts such as the trade winds or westerlies. • As wind waves are formed by the storm, they are forced to increase in size and speed by the input • Of energy from the storm, sometimes known as forced waves. • PERIOD the time required for one wavelength to pass a fixed point (wave speed = wavelength/period) • Long wavelengths and long periods = faster movement that short of both. • Eventually, escape a storm and appear as a regular pattern of wave crests on the ocean’s surface. • The long period, uniform waves know as swells. • They carry a great amount of energy and manage to travel for 1000s of kilometers. • DEEPWATER WAVES= waves that occur in water that is deeper than one half of a wave’s wavelength. • Height is increased by wind speed, the duration of wind, and the fetch. • Large waves can be produced only by all three of those factors being at a high production number. • A deep-water wave become a shallow water wave when it enters shallow water. • The friction that results from the orbit of the wave dragging the bottom results in the slow end of the wave. • Speed and length of shallow water waves are determine by the depth of the water. • SURF ZONE= is the area along a coast where waves slow down, become steeper, break, and disappear. • BREAKERS= form in the surf zone when the lower part of a wave is slowed by friction with the bottom but its crest continues moving toward the shore at a speed faster than that of the wave. • The two most common types of breaker are plungers and spillers. • Plungers form when the beach slope is steep. • End up with a sudden loss of energy and a splash. • Spillers are more common and usually form on flat beaches. • Last longer because of the gradual movement of slowing down. • TSUNAMIS= sudden movements of the earth’s crust produce earthquakes, which may produce large seismic sea waves. • A.K.A. Tidal Waves. • End up in destruction and they form because of the sudden increase from a small ocean depth of the sea floor to a larger depth.