Download Enviro Solutions Center Organic Food Gardening Training Manual

Enviro Solutions Center
Organic Food Gardening Training Manual
Welcome to the wonderful world of FOOD GARDENING, here we will be learning how easy it is
to grow our own herbs, veggies, and medicinal plants which can be used with complete
confidence as we know when how and where these plants have been grown. Local FOOD
GARDENING provides an alternative to mass produced, chemical filled low nutrient foods.
Within these course we will be covering many of the basic elements of food gardening which
will empower each person to have the confidence, skill and knowledge to grow enough food for
themselves, their families and even their friends. Ultimately we want each person to be
involved in the FOOD REVOLUTION which is going to be sweeping our nation. Enviro Solutions
Center’s mission is to set up and develop as many FOOD GARDENS within the city of
Johannesburg to make this city completely self sustaining for its nutritional needs. We invite
everyone to be part of this process whether is by growing on your balcony, rooftop or by being
part of a community garden in your area.
Enviro Solutions Center is a local NGO which serves to popularize simple solutions for the
current environmental crisis we all face. Food gardens are the first of many projects which we
will be working on. Next we will be focusing attention on autonomous alternate energy
production methods and then on ways which we can manage our waste so that we can move
towards a ZERO WASTE SOCIETY. If you would like to become involved in the work we are
doing, want to support this work in any way or just curious about what we are doing please feel
free to contact us via email at [email protected] or call Mikal directly on 084 961 9985
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Contents:
The 3 essentials
Land
Water
Labor
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Soil preparation
Digging in fertilizer
Double digging
"No digging" techniques: Sheet Mulching
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Composting and Vermiculture
The role of compost in the garden
Making your own compost
Making a compost bay
What is vermiculture
What role does it play in the garden
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What to plant
Know what you want to grow
Know what can grow in your area
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When to plant
Seasonal planting
Planting according to lunar cycles
Planting to create a green mulch
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Crop Rotation
Why rotate crops?
Family groups
Different zones
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Garden design & layout
Factors to consider
Data gathering methods
Integrating the whole
Designing beds according to crop rotation, planting cycles, green mulching
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Companion planting
What is companion planting
How does it work
What plants grow well together & which don’t
The 3 essentials:
Land, water and labor are at the heart of every garden, but gaining access to these 3 essentials is a
matter of ingenuity and watching how nature has made these available to us in every
circumstance. These are not hindrances if not available in the form we expect to find it but
opportunities to discover new ways of accessing these natural resources.
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Land
Having access to land is essential, but if no ground space can be found growing food on the
balcony, roof or court yard in flower pots, boxes or other containers are also a highly effective way
of growing more than enough food to eat & share with those you love.
Water
Having a regular and constant supply of water makes for a lush green garden but water doesn’t
have to come from the municipality. Conserving water and using it was many times as possible is a
valuable way to maximize this precious resource. Watering only at specific times and in specified
places is a great way to maximize the use of this resource. Placing unglazed clay containers or
plastic bottles with fine holes in the ground which are surrounded by plant is a wonderful way to
water the roots of plants without loosing any water to evaporation. Watering early in the morning
or late in the after noon also reduces the lose of moisture to the atmosphere keeping it where it is
most needed: in the soil.
Labor
This is most likely going to be you. Working in the garden can be a medication & meditation, an
exercise work out or a full time job to be loved and lived endlessly amongst the fruits, vegetables
and herb plants. It’s a great way to unite family friends and especially the community as we work
towards a common goal of food security. Forming co operative communities to work on
community gardens provides a wealth of labor and facilitates the building of communities which
the garden is more than able to feed. By building communities we strengthen our nation & our
gardens become healing centers for our country
Soil Preparation
Preparing the soil is a vital task which sets the stage for a bountiful harvest as it has long term
benefits for the FOOD GARDEN. It also serves to protect plants from pests. There are a number of
ways in which soil can be prepared. When choosing a method it is important to take into account
the resources which are available, condition of the soil & the types of foods you want to grow this
will help determine whether to use a digging or no digging method.
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Digging in fertilizer
Preparing the soil is ideally done in the winter months when the ground is producing at a slow rate
and needs time to lay fallow. This can be done by digging in fertilizer like vericast, kitchen waste,
cardboard, newspaper, grass clippings and leaves into beds. The top soil is removed to a depth of
about 30 cm. layers of these organic materials are layered into the hole and then the top soil is
returned to form a raised bed which gradually sinks as the matter decomposes fertilizing the soil
from within. This is a labor intensive method and needs only be done once in two years. It also
requires that enough organic matter is available to ensure that the energy expended in digging the
hole is justified in terms of the nutrients which are returned to the soil.
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"No digging" techniques: Sheet Mulching
This technique of soil repairs is based on how Mother Nature repairs the soil. She naturally makes
it that trees loose their leaves and settle on the ground around itself mostly near to winter to form
a protective layer on the ground which gradually is incorporated into the top soil. We seek to
replicate this natural layer by keeping layers of mulch over the soil and protecting plants and
preventing water lose.
With this method layers of leaves, grass clippings newspaper, card board and cotton fiber is
layered over the top soil. It is kept wet under the cardboard and warm above as the sun heats the
cardboard as it protects the soil below it. The leaves are decomposed faster under the layers of
card board as it is dark, moist and humid & the micro bacteria in the soil become active and they
make the ground attractive for the next group of gardeners. The Worms!
Sheet Mulch Gardening: build your soil the ‘no work’ way
by Pat Featherstone (Soil for Life) Biophile Magazine
FILED IN: Green Gardening · Issue 16 · Soil For Life
Sheet mulching (or composting) is the simplest, and least labour intensive, method of
building the fertility of most soil types and affords the gardener an easier option than
back-breaking spade work for establishing a new garden. It encourages the soil biota,
many species of which will work the soil over for you - no digging required. It is a
three-in-one method which combines composting, mulching and biodegradable weed
killers (cardboard and newspaper), and it enables you not only to improve your soil
but to grow and harvest a crop all at the same time.
There are many ways of sheet mulching, two of which are discussed. Both require
enormous volumes of organic matter initially and, thereafter, it becomes a routine
activity in the garden to keep adding more mulching materials to the surface as the
soil flora and fauna break them down into life-sustaining humus, and releasing
nutrients which are gobbled up by the plants. The whole idea behind it is to minimise
soil disturbance.
Here’s how to go about it:
Method 1
Mark out the areas for your new beds and, right on top of whatever is there (bare soil,
weeds, grass), sprinkle some rock phosphate or bonemeal and wood ash or dolomitic
lime (for acid soils) or sulphur (for those alkaline Cape Flats soils).
Cover the area with a layer of manure to provide the extra nitrogen to break down the
dead leaves and roots of the plants that will be buried by the mulching materials.
Then add alternating layers (6cm, or 3 fingers, deep) of green, wet materials (lawn
clippings, fresh leaves and prunings) and brown, dry materials (untreated sawdust,
autumn leaves, straw) and more manure, watering each layer as you go, until you
have covered the demarcated area to a depth of at least 20cm. With vigorous Kikuyu
grass it is a good idea to mulch the area up to 30 or 40 cm deep. You’ll be surprised at
how much organic matter it takes to do this.
Cover the whole area with overlapping sheets of newspaper (3 – 5 sheets) or
cardboard (1- 3 sheets) to prevent weed seeds from germinating, and grass runners
from creeping through, and competing with your plants. Wet the paper and cardboard
thoroughly and, in a very short space of time, it will have rotted down and
disappeared, its job done.
Lastly, add a layer of compost, soil and mulch to hide the unsightly newspaper and,
hey presto, you’re ready to plant. Make a hole in the mulch/soil layer, cut a cross
through the paper or cardboard, add a dollop of good potting mix (half compost, half
good garden soil) and plant your seed or transplant your seedling. Water well.
Method 2
Mark out the areas for your new beds and cover whatever is there (bare soil, weeds,
grass) with between three to six sheets of newspaper or one to three sheets of
cardboard. Make sure the sheets are overlapping well and water.
Now proceed as above, layering green, wet and brown, dry materials and manure
until the bed area is covered to a depth of at least 20 cm.
Add a layer of mulch to cover.
To plant up this sheet mulched area, simply make a hole in the mulch, add a good soil
mix and plant.
In both cases there is no need to use herbicides or other drastic measures to kill the
grass and other vegetation. The newspaper and cardboard will do it for you. A myriad
different creatures will take up residence in this bountiful environment, enriching the
soil beneath with valuable humus which will be worked in by earthworms and other
organisms which are, in effect, digging the soil for you.
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Composting and Vermiculture
The role of compost in the garden
Compost is found naturally in the earth when organic matter gradually breakdowns which is part
of the natural process of decomposition. In the modern Urban Food garden we do not have this
luxury and have to buy or make our own compost. Compost is generally the result of a process of
putting large amounts of organic matter like grass clippings, food scraps and other biodegradable
matter in a mass and leaving it to degrade. This way the nutrients are preserved as the matter
breaks down. This compost is highly nutritious, usually a dark moist soil which is light with a strong
earthy scent. When added to the FOOD GARDEN it releases its nutrients into the soil and acts as a
natural fertilizer.
Making your own compost
Making your own compost benefits you, your garden and the greater environment. By making you
own you are recycling and reducing the amount of waste that leaves your space as we work
towards a ZERO WASTE society. Keeping organic waste out of landfill sites is of vital importance to
the environment because if these valuable nutrients end up in landfill sites they are often buried,
when organic matter breakdown is an anaerobic environment it releases methane and other
Greenhouse House gasses which have adverse effects on the environment. You are also saving a
lot of valuable minerals and nutrients which are contained within the scraps which are not cooked
or left over. These nutrients can be kept within your food cycle on your property whether it’s a
farm yard or a bachelor’s apartment.
There are numerous different types of composting but the important part of each of these
systems is that the aim is to recycle and change the way we look at what may have previously
been considered to be waste to seeing it as a source of valuable nutrients and minerals for the
environment.
Making a compost bay
Making a composting bay can be as easy as having a small bucket on the balcony in which scraps
of organic matter are kept or building a huge outside box filled with garden clippings, food & soil.
The important elements to a compost box are that is it covered, ventilated and kept moist. The
idea is to have a box of about a meter square which allows for easy turning, covering and
watering.
An alternative is to keep a worm farm this to can be as big or small as you need it to be. Worms
are great for breaking down organic matter into its smallest units and they create an amazing
natural fertilizer and compost called vermi liquid and vericast. These are Natures source of
fertilizer and compost.
Making Compost
by Jim Smolt BioPhile Magazine
FILED IN: Green Gardening · Issue 1
Most gardeners have long understood the value of this rich, dark, earthy material in
improving the soil and creating a healthy environment for plants.
Understanding how to make and use compost is in the public interest, as the problem of
waste disposal climbs toward a crisis level.
Landfills are brimming, and new sites are not likely to be easily found. For this reason
there is an interest in conserving existing landfill space and in developing alternative
methods of dealing with waste.
Don’t throw away materials when you can use them to improve your lawn and garden!
Start composting instead:
Compost is the end product of a complex feeding pattern involving hundreds of different
organisms, including bacteria, fungi, worms, and insects. What remains after these
organisms break down organic materials is the rich, earthy substance your garden will
love.
Composting replicates nature’s natural system of breaking down materials on the forest
floor. In every forest, grassland, jungle, and garden, plants die, fall to the ground, and
decay. They are slowly dismantled by the small organisms living in the soil. Eventually
these plant parts disappear into the brown crumbly forest floor. This humus keeps the
soil light and fluffy.
Humus
Humus is our goal when we start composting. By providing the right environment for
the organisms in the compost pile, it is possible to produce excellent compost. We
usually want to organize and hasten Mother Nature’s process. By knowing the optimum
conditions of heat, moisture, air, and materials, we can speed up the composting
process. Besides producing more good soil faster, making the compost faster creates
heat which will destroy plant diseases and weed seeds in the pile.
Compost Materials
Almost any organic material is suitable for a compost pile. The pile needs a proper
ratio of carbon-rich materials, or “browns,” and nitrogen-rich materials, or “greens.”
Among the brown materials are dried leaves, straw, and wood chips. Nitrogen materials
are fresh or green, such as grass clippings and kitchen scraps.
The Five Key Factors
To make an effective efficient compost pile, you need to consider these five key factors:
Food
The 50/50 Rule: A perfect mixture of material consists of ? brown (carbon-based
material) and ? green (nitrogen-based) material by weight.
Air
To Turn or Not to Turn: The organisms that live inside your compost bin need air to
survive. Mix or turn the pile three to five times per season using a pitchfork, garden hoe
or shovel. Proper aeration can make a big difference. You will know if your bin is not
getting enough oxygen if the pile smells of ammonia.
Water
Moist, Not Damp: The organisms need water to survive, but not too much or they will
drown. The ideal moisture level of your compost pile should be like that of a wrung out
sponge.
Surface Area
Small is Best: Cutup or shred organic waste materials before placing them into the
compost bin. This increases the surface area and speeds up decomposition. You can
also store your kitchen scraps in your freezer to speed up decomposition, as your
materials break down at the cell level when frozen.
Bin Volume
Not Too Big: A bin that is too small cannot retain enough heat. If the bin is too large, it
won’t get enough air to the centre of the pile. It is also easier to manage two or three
medium bins that one large one.
You can build a compost bin yourself out of new or recycled materials, or you can buy
one at a home or garden centre.
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What is vermiculture?
Vermiculture is the big word for keeping a worm farm which is an incredibly easy way of recycling,
making fertilizer and compost. It gives off no foul odors and produces the best natural compost
which has no negative side effects on the environment. There a few basic rules to keep your
worms healthy and fed which leads to a mutually beneficial relationship for everyone.
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What role does it play in the garden
Worms are found in the top soil when it is moist dark and full of nutrients. Their job in the garden
is to eat and decompose nutrients in the soil as they do this they excrete their bodily waste
through their skin which is full of nutrients which can be absorbed by the plants, at the same they
are aerating the soil as they make holes through the soil,( which is why its good to avoid walking
on beds so as to not compact the soil.) In this way worms complete the food cycle by processing
the organic matter in the soil and making it readily available to plants.
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How to make a worm farm or worm tower?
A worm farm is made in any container by layering newspaper or cardboard which has been
shredded, then covered with some soil, aged manure, hay, dry grass clipping or leaves. The paper
absorbs moisture , the aged manure provides a source of nutrients for the worms while the hay,
grass clipping or leaves add carbon to the mixture which aids in the breaking down process. Above
this food scraps are added which is the food which the worms will live on.
Things to avoid in your worm farm are generally strong smelling things like citrus, onions, garlic,
pineapple as the worms bodies are sensitive and they will avoid these items leaving them to
decompose over a longer period of time.
Over time the worms will have decomposed the food and keep moving upward away from their
vermi casting and towards the food source which is at the top of the farm. It is important to keep
the farm moist and dark by layering moist newspaper at the top as these are the conditions most
favorable for worms.
The worms excrete a liquid out of their bodies which is a highly prized fertilizer called vermi liquid
which can be mixed with water 10-100 and watered over plants giving plants and soil a boost of
natural nutrients which can be easily absorbed.
This liquid is extracted from the worm farm by having the farm raised off the ground with a small
hole in the bottom from which flows the vermi liquid to be caught in a container.
Ants can be a problem which is easily taken care of by having the legs of the farm set into trays of
water which gives them no dry access to the farm
A worm tower designed very much like a worm farm with a few additions which make it a
fabulous source of soil nutrients in the garden. A worm tower is placed in the centre of the
garden. It is made of a large pipe which is inserted into the soil about 30 cm deep with holes about
a fingers width drilled into the pipe in the part which is in the ground. Within the pipe the
contents are made up in same way as with the worm farm. The only different is that there is no
bottom to a worm tower and it has holes along its side which allows the worms to tunnel into the
surrounding soil aerating it and leaving their vermi casting in the soil. When they need to feed
they will return to the tower to enjoy the food which is placed in the top. The tower thus becomes
a recycling centre of the garden and a cafeteria for the worms who are the real workers of magic
in the garden.
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What to plant
Know what you want to grow
The first thing to know is what do you want to grow. Make a list of the fruit, veggies, herbs and
plants that you would like to grow and fill your garden with. If you are growing what you like it will
keep you inspired and motivated when you are eating from your garden regularly. Its also
important to consider the financial implication of your choice of food to grow. Its no use filling
your garden with spinach which and having to buy in egg plant as the cost difference is extreme.
Know what can grow in your area
While its good to know what you want to eat its vital to know what can grow in the environment
where you are. It would be very disappointing to try grow a plant in an environment & at a time
when it is in its dormant phase. So finding out when, where & what to plant is imperative. This
will allow for a full successful garden which can produce a variety of crops regularly.
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When to plant
Seasonal planting
For planting the environment is divided into winter and summer rainfall areas. Johannesburg is a
summer rainfall area and this means that it is dry during winter and moist and wet during. These
factors determine the kinds of plants which can be grown in this area and serves as a guide to
what and when seeds and seedlings will be planted.
Cape Town is a winter rainfall area and will be able to grow different plants and planting will
happen at different times.
Planting according to lunar cycles
Planting according to the phases of the moon has been used in ancient gardens. As the moon
waxes and wanes it exerts different kinds of effects on the physiological workings of plants. As the
moon gets full sap is generally rising in plants and trees which effects plant grow different to when
it is waning. Knowing when is the best moon phase to plant in and when is the best phase to
harvest can radically improve the quality of the food which is being grown. It also furthers the
connection between gardener and the environment as a holistic interaction.
Lunar Living: a guide to
using the moon for gardening
by Shireen Freeman from Biophile Magazine
FILED IN: Green Gardening · Issue 19
One of the beauties of organic gardening is the following of natural seasons and patters
of the earth and seasons to create healthy, living plants and foods. This intrinsic
harmony between ourselves and our gardens enhances not only our mind/body
relationship but also gives us deep insight into the emotional and spiritual wellbeing
that comes with being connected to natural cycles.
There is no doubt that by being part of the process of growing our own food (even if you
are just starting off with a simple herb garden or veggie patch) we heal ourselves and
become more spiritually rooted in our bodies. The moon has been part of ancient
agriculture since the beginning of time when we first noted the effects the moon has on
the daily cycles within seasons. We also know that the moon has a great influence on
our emotional states and that if we use the moon as a guide in our lives, we open
ourselves to receiving many emotionally satisfying experiences.
The moon has a 28 day cycle where she waxes from new moon to full moon then wanes
to last quarter and then fades into dark moon until she reappears as new moon again.
During this cycle the moon travels through the signs of the zodiac where the four
different elements of the signs – earth, air, fire and water – enhance the energy of the
phase of the moon, adding a unique dimension to the energy available to us. Working
with the appropriate phase of the Moon for all aspects of planting, cultivation, and
harvesting will increase quality as well as quantity in your crops.
I know herbalists who are using this system and producing vastly more potent medicinal
and culinary plants. NEW MOON PHASE 12 hours after Dark Moon to First Quarter.
The Moon rises and sets with the Sun at this time, and for the first one or two days is
invisible. Every night she sets approximately one hour later; and can first been seen as
a waxing crescent (increasing in light) close to the Sun, at sunset. During this phase
there is an upsurge of energy which all living things can greatly benefit from. This is the
time to plant and start projects.
Some lunar gardeners believe that one should wait until you can actually see the
crescent of the new moon while others believe it’s ok to start 12 hours after Dark Moon.
During this phase sap rises within the plants so it’s a time to sow, plant, and transplant
annuals which produce above ground crops, especially those of a leafy kind that
produce seeds outside the fruit, also cereals and grains. During this time avoid
harvesting as rot sets in more quickly. Mow and to encourage growth. Plants need more
oxygen at this time.
On an emotional and spiritual level, now is the time to open ourselves up to receiving
abundance from the universe. Keywords for the New phase are: beginning, birth,
emergence, projection, clarity. It is the time in a cycle that you are stimulated to take a
new action. During this phase the new cycle is being seeded by your vision, inner and
outer. Engage in physical activity. Spend time alone. VISUALIZE your goals for the
29.6-day cycle ahead.
FIRST QUARTER PHASE
First Quarter to 12 hours before Full Moon.
By the First quarter phase the Moon is rising at noon, setting at midnight. She slowly
grows in light, illuminating the first half of the night sky. During this phase the energy
and the sap is still fresh and continuing to rise within the plants. Now is a great time to
plant, graft and transplant annuals that produce above ground, especially of a vine-type
with seeds produced inside (like beans, peas, peppers, squash and tomatoes). It is also
time to plant cereals and grains.
All activities listed for the New Moon phase are just as successful if done now. The last
two days of this phase, just before the Full Moon are considered optimum for planting,
and grafts take best if done at this time. Keywords for the First Quarter phase are:
action, expression, growth, breaking away. It is the time in a cycle to take the initial
action necessary to achieve your goal by expressing your needs and desires. FEEL &
MOVE. Make phone calls. Write letters. Dance. Act now.
FULL MOON PHASE
12 hours after Full Moon to Last quarter.
The Full Moon rises brilliant and full at sunset illuminating the sky for the whole night.
It will rise later and later in the evening as it moves through its waning phase. The Full
Moon phase sees a peak of electromagnetic energy within all living things with it’s
zenith at the exact time of the Full Moon. Over the next two weeks, this energy wanes
along with the moon. During this phase the sap is now flowing downwards into the
roots, so plant perennials, biennials, bulb and root crops - anything that produces
below ground. This is also time to prune and harvest all crops.
Medicinal herbs and plants are most potent when harvested during Full Moon and of
course the sense of splendor when harvesting by moonlight cannot go without its due
credit. This is also a wonderful time to sprout seeds for eating however, not a good time
for sprouting to plant. The reason for this is that there will be a good initial growth
spurt followed by spindly growth thereafter. Keywords for the Full phase are:
fulfillment, illumination, realization, experience. It is the time in a cycle that you are
given a clear view so that you can make adjustments to put you back on track to
manifesting the goals you set at the new phase. Go to a public place. Do something with
a friend. LISTEN. Receive awareness. Understand others.
LAST QUARTER PHASE
Last Quarter to 12 hours before Dark Moon.
The Last Quarter Moon rises at midnight in the beginning of the phase, showing us her
slowly vanishing crescent in the early morning eastern sky. She then moves closer to the
Sun until she becomes visible for the last day or two of the phase. The cycle is complete.
This is a barren phase during the cycle that calls for rest and preparation for the next
New Moon. It is vital for us to allow this phase to enhance our gardens as well as
ourselves: pull weeds, turn the earth and prune. Apply organic fertilizers any time
during Waning Moon and mow to decrease growth.
Now is the time to harvest crops that you wish to store for a period of time without it
rotting or losing flavour. Keywords for the Last Quarter phase are: realignment,
revision, integration, cleansing. It is the time in a cycle to take closing action, to followup and complete the activities begun at the New phase. During this phase you become
aware of what is and is not working with respect to the achievement of your goal for the
cycle. The movement is toward integration. Open to your success. MANIFEST YOUR
GOAL. Be responsible.
FIRE SIGNS - FRUIT, SEED GROWTH
Aries Leo Sagittarius
When you plant in a FIRE sign, the Moon’s influence is channeled into the fruit and
seed of the plant: wheat, corn, tomatoes, beans, squash, peas and all fruit. It is a good
idea to plant now to ensure quality seeds for the following year. This is also a good time
to harvest fruit and seed crops especially during a fire sign full moon! Cultivate, till and
plough. Plant garlic, leeks, onions, peppers and chicory for an exciting spicy crop.
AIR SIGNS - BLOSSOM GROWTH
Gemini Libra Aquarius
When you plant in an AIR sign, the Moon’s influence is channeled into the blossom
growth. Here we plant all flowers and flowering plants - except cauliflower and
broccoli which do better in a Water sign. This is the time for fragrance and beauty so
get creative and colourful in the garden. The Moon in Gemini is good for flowering
herbs, while the Moon in Aquarius is good for planting or harvesting hybrids (though
hybrids don’t respond well to lunar planting methods). This is also a good time for
cultivation, weeding or eliminating pests. If you can’t plant now, plant in Fire.
EARTH SIGNS - ROOT GROWTH
Taurus Virgo Capricorn
When you plant is an EARTH sign, the energy of the Moon is focused into the roots of
the plant. Here we plant carrots, beets, turnips, potatoes, and all tubers to produce
strong, hardy wellanchored plants. Turn compost heaps. The Moon in Capricorn will
produce an exceptionally hardy plant which will last through dry weather spells. When
the Moon is in Virgo, put your garden in order; tie up plants, apply organic fertilizers.
The Earth signs are considered to be extremely fertile, so if you can’t figure out what
sign you should be using, or can’t possibly organize your time for a specific sign, then
plant in an Earth sign or a Water sign. The best day to cut grass is in this sign in the
waning moon.
WATER SIGNS - LEAF GROWTH
Cancer Scorpio Pisces
When you plant in a WATER sign, the energy will go into the leaves. Lettuce, spinach,
grass, cabbage, cress, any leafy growth will thrive planted now. This is considered to be
the most productive sign, even more so than Earth. This is an excellent time for
fertilizing and irrigating. Start composts heaps. Sow pass. Don’t harvest now, crops will
decay too soon. Plant melons, grapes, any fruit with high water content will do well at
this time.
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Planting to create a green mulch
Mulching is the covering over the ground which is generally dead leaves and grass clipping, hay or
other materials which serve to protect the soil from being dried out by the sun , keeping it moist
and dark making it favorable for the many living organisms which inhabit the top soil and make it
favorable for the plants. Green mulch is when the top soil is covered with living plants which are
grown close together making the most of the available resources while at the same time
protecting the soil and its inhabitants. These plants usually require less light or are creepers like
pumpkin which has long creeping branches which may cover large surface areas within the garden
growing between other plants and protecting the soil from the sun
Garden design & layout
Factors to consider
Designing the garden is the time to play and have fun. There are some factors to be considered
which act as guides to making the best use of the natural resources which are available. Things to
consider are:
rainfall seasons,
arch of the sun,
aspect,
drainage,
current foliage,
soil quality,
access to water,
seeds,
tools & labor.
These factors will determine what can be grown, when to plant, where to plant and how the
garden will be designed to maximize resources and minimize energy input.
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Data gathering methods
There are numerous methods and places to gather information. The obvious place to start is on
the site of the garden. By just walking around the site & observing the natural resources on site
you would be able to build up a profile of what is available and how to make best use of these
features.
Local authorities like weather stations, are also valuable sources of information as well as talking
to other gardeners in the area who would have information about local weather patterns, what
grows particularly well and what doesn't.
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Designing beds according to crop rotation, planting cycles & green mulching can be a creative
fun way to engage with the garden there are few hard and fast rules and as long as you aim to
replicate the way Nature would do it the only limitation is your imagination.
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Companion planting
What is companion planting
Companion planting is the technique of putting together plants which have a favorable
relationship with each other. This is a natural way in which plants would grow. Nature never grew
large fields of cabbage in a row but rather many different plants would grow together using
different nutrients and minerals from the soil. In this way more food is grown on the same space,
pest cannot flourish, the ground is kept covered and the plants benefit from being around
different plants which form a natural support system and a more balanced eco system.
How does it work
Each plant has particular requirements from its environment in order to flourish; they also exert
different influences on the soil. Certain plants influence the environment positively for some and
negatively for other plants by using certain mineral and trace elements within the soil, by
attracting or repealing certain organisms, by the amount of light they need, how fast they grow,
whether they grow high casting shadows or creeping along the ground making a ground cover.
These and many other factors influence whether specific plants will grow well together.
Companion planting seeks to put those plants which influence the environment to the benefit of
its neighbors positively together. Thus they have a positive effect on each other. They also
replenish the soil in specific ways which can be used to the benefit of other plants within the cycle
of the gardens rotation.
COMPANION VEGETABLE GARDENING
Companion planting is all about plants enjoying each other’s company and
providing help to each other. We’re concentrating on vegetables but it also
applies to flowers and shrubs.
Plant tomatoes in one bed and basil in another and you'll get good results. Plant
tomatoes right next to basil in the same bed and watch them both boom! That’s
what companion planting is all about. Planting vegetables with specific herbs or
vegetables that have a beneficial effect on each other.
If you're getting ready to plant your vegetable garden you may want to try
placing the various vegetable crops so you can take advantage of their natural
friends. If you have already planted you may want to consider some changes in
subsequent plantings.
The following are the more popular vegetables and their ideal planting
companions.
Beans - they like celery and cucumbers but dislike onions and fennel.
Beetroot - Bush beans, lettuce, onions and most members of the cabbage
family are companion plants. Keep the pole beans and mustard away from them.
Cabbage - Celery, dill, onions and potatoes are good companion plants. They
dislike strawberries, tomatoes, and pole beans.
Carrots - Leaf lettuce, radish, onions and tomatoes are their friends, Plant dill at
the opposite end of the garden.
Cucumbers - They like corn, peas, radishes, beans and sunflowers. Cucumbers
dislike aromatic herbs and potatoes so keep them away.
Lettuce - It grows especially well with onions. Strawberries carrots, radishes
and cucumbers also are friends and good companion plants.
Mealies (sweetcorn) - Pumpkins, peas, beans, cucumbers and potatoes are
nice companion plants; Keep the tomatoes away from them.
Onions - Plant them near lettuce, beets, strawberries and tomatoes but keep
them away from peas and beans.
Peas - Carrots, cucumbers, corn, turnips and radishes plus beans, potatoes and
aromatic herbs are their friends. Keep the peas away from onions, garlic, leek,
and shallots.
Radishes - This is one vegetable that has a lot of friends; they are excellent
companion plants with beets, carrots, spinach and parsnips. Radishes grow well
with cucumbers and beans. It's said that summer planting near leaf lettuce
makes the radishes more tender. Avoid planting radishes near cabbage,
cauliflower, brussels sprouts, broccoli or turnips.
Squash - Icicle radishes, cucumbers and corn are among their friends.
Tomatoes - Carrots, onions and parsley are good companion plants. Keep the
cabbage and cauliflower away from them.
If you have a patio you might try mint to repel ants, and basil to keep the flies
and mosquitoes away (music to my ears). Both herbs have attractive flowers
and are fragrant too.
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Crop Rotation
What is crop rotation and how does it work?
Crop rotation is the system of rotating the positions of groups of plants to different zones within
the garden annually. This prevents the build up of pests & supports the soil by having a variety of
plants grown on the land because while plants use elements of the soil to grow they also put back
certain elements which are useful to other plants and organisms.
Crop rotation should be incorporated into the design of the garden. It is usually a 3 or 4 year plan
of what is going to be planted and where. Plants have integrated relationships with each other as
they are sharing the same natural resources this means that there will be favorable and
unfavorable relationships between them. By growing certain plants together using companion
planting the plants support each other by using different nutrients from the soil and making
different nutrients available in the soil.
This means that what is grown in zone 1 this year will be grown where zone 2 is next year and the
rotation cycle is kept up for 3 or 4 years until each group has returned to its original position.
If the same crop is grown in the same places year after year the soil will become depleted of
certain nutrients over time and have a build up of others. By rotating the crops every year the
nutrients which are being taken out & introduced into the soil are regulated and circulated
between the entire piece of land. It also prevents the build up of pests in one area and protects
the land and the plants.
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Family groups
All plants and vegetables are categorized into family groups. These groups usually have the same
nutritional needs, light requirements, favorable and unfavorable companion plants. Know the
group to which each plant belongs makes it possible to know when and where to plant and which
plants to put together.
Chenopodiaceous: beetroot, quinoa, spinach, swiss chard
Solanaceae: potatoes, egg plant, peppers, tomatoes
Umbelliferae: carrots, celery, fennel, parsley, parsnips
Alliaceous: onion, garlic, leeks, shallots
Cucurbitaceous: marrows, cucumbers, courgettes, melons, pumpkins, squash
Leguminosae: peas & beans(broad, French, runner)alfalfa, clover, fenugreek, lupines, trefoil
Compositae: endives, lettuce, artichoke
Cruciferae: cabbage, broccoli, brussell sprouts, cauliflower, kale, kohlrabi, radish, turnips
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Different zones
The garden is divided into different zones with each zone having its own group of plants which are
rotated together and thus have a favorable relationship with each other. Here companion plants
are kept together and away from those which they do not have favorable influences on. The
plants in each group will rotate together annually till they have been grown in every area of the
FOOD GARDEN.
Getting Started
The best time to start your garden is right now. waiting for the perfect time can often result in a
loss of enthusiasm and means it will take longer to see results. Use what is available to you at this
point as your skill, knowledge and interests grows so to will your desire to grower in bigger and
better conditions. Remember we seek to replicate what nature has been doing for millions of
years, She knows exactly how to do it. The earth wants to produce for us all we have to do is
facilitate the process and it is definitely going to work for us.
Best wishes on the journey of self discovery in the garden.
"Be the solution you want to see in the world"
Special Thanks go to Biophile for their generous spirit of making this valuable information
available freely on the internet. Check out www.Biophile.co.za
For more information, comments and queries contact Mikal on 084 961 9985 or email
[email protected]
This document has a copy left policy. So feel free to copy, replicate & distribute to as many people
as are interested in growing their own food.