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1 NOTES REGARDING HISTORICAL SITES GREECE © 2010 H.G. Harker January 2010 Overseas Travel GREECE Page 2 TABLE OF CONTENTS TABLE OF CONTENTS ..............................................................................................................................2 GREECE ........................................................................................................................................................4 SDA CHURCH DETAILS ..........................................................................................................................4 AREAS OF INTEREST ..............................................................................................................................5 THE COUNTRY .........................................................................................................................................5 GREAT EVENTS IN HISTORY ................................................................................................................5 DECISIVE BATTLE SITES OF HISTORY...............................................................................................5 MARATHON..............................................................................................................................................5 THERMOPYLAE (THERMOPYLAI) .......................................................................................................6 THE BATTLE OF SALAMIS .....................................................................................................................7 PYDNA .......................................................................................................................................................8 ATHENS.........................................................................................................................................................9 THE ACROPOLIS ......................................................................................................................................9 The Propylaia .........................................................................................................................................9 The Temple of Athena Nike .....................................................................................................................9 The Athena Promachos ...........................................................................................................................9 The Erechtheion ......................................................................................................................................9 The Parthenon (The Temple of the Virgins) ..........................................................................................10 The Acropolis Museum .........................................................................................................................10 The Theatre of Dionysos .......................................................................................................................10 The Asklepeion of Athens ......................................................................................................................10 The Theatre or Odeon of Herod Attius .................................................................................................11 Mars Hill – The Areopagos ..................................................................................................................11 Philopappus Hill (Filopáppos) .............................................................................................................11 Pnyx Hill ...............................................................................................................................................11 THE ANCIENT AGORA ..........................................................................................................................11 The Stoa of Attalos ................................................................................................................................12 The Tower of the Winds ........................................................................................................................12 The Hephaisteion ..................................................................................................................................12 Other Places in the Agora ....................................................................................................................12 HADRIAN’S ARCH .................................................................................................................................12 THE TEMPLE OF OLYMPIAN ZEUS ....................................................................................................12 SYNTAGMA SQUARE ...........................................................................................................................13 OMONIA SQUARE (PLATEIA OMONOIAS) .......................................................................................13 THE NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM ..............................................................................13 LYCABETTUS (LYKAVITTOS) ...........................................................................................................13 PIRAEUS ..................................................................................................................................................13 PERAMA ..................................................................................................................................................13 SOUTH OF ATHENS .................................................................................................................................14 CAPE SOUNION ......................................................................................................................................14 ATHENS TO CORINTH AND THE PELOPONESE .............................................................................14 DAFNI (DAPHNE) ...................................................................................................................................14 ELEUSIS ...................................................................................................................................................14 MEGARA .................................................................................................................................................15 HERAION .................................................................................................................................................15 THE CORINTHIAN CANAL ...................................................................................................................15 Overseas Travel GREECE Page 3 ISTHMIA ..................................................................................................................................................15 CENCHREA (KENCHREAI) ...................................................................................................................15 CORINTH (KORINTHOS) ......................................................................................................................16 History of Corinth .................................................................................................................................16 ANCIENT CORINTH...............................................................................................................................16 The Temple of Apollo ............................................................................................................................16 The Theatre and the Odeon ..................................................................................................................17 The Fountain of Glauke ........................................................................................................................17 The Museum ..........................................................................................................................................17 The Agora .............................................................................................................................................17 The Bema (or Tribune) .........................................................................................................................17 South Stoa .............................................................................................................................................17 The Sacred Fountain .............................................................................................................................18 The Propylaia .......................................................................................................................................18 The Peirene Fountain ...........................................................................................................................18 The Baths of Eurykles ...........................................................................................................................18 The Sanctuary of Asklepios ...................................................................................................................18 ACROCORINTH (AKROKORINTHOS) ................................................................................................18 LECHAION ..............................................................................................................................................19 KALAVRYTA (KALAVRITA) ...............................................................................................................19 MYCANAE (MYKENAI – MIKINES) ....................................................................................................19 The Lion Gate .......................................................................................................................................19 The First Circle of Royal Tombs ...........................................................................................................19 The Tomb of Agamemnon or the Treasury of Atreus ............................................................................19 The Palace ............................................................................................................................................20 The Secret Aqueduct .............................................................................................................................20 ARGOS .....................................................................................................................................................20 TIRYNS (TIRYNTHA) ............................................................................................................................20 NAUPLION (NAFPLIO) ..........................................................................................................................20 EPIDAURUS (EPIDAVROS)...................................................................................................................21 SPARTA ...................................................................................................................................................21 MYSTRA ..................................................................................................................................................21 OLYMPIA ................................................................................................................................................21 The Temple of Zeus ...............................................................................................................................22 The Museum ..........................................................................................................................................22 Other Places of Interest ........................................................................................................................22 NORTH FROM ATHENS ..........................................................................................................................22 DELPHI ....................................................................................................................................................22 The Sanctuary of Apollo .......................................................................................................................23 The Theatre ...........................................................................................................................................24 The Stadium ..........................................................................................................................................24 The Castalian Spring ............................................................................................................................24 The Sanctuary of Marmaria ..................................................................................................................24 The Museum ..........................................................................................................................................24 THE CORYCIAN CAVE ..........................................................................................................................24 PREVEZA & NIKOPOLI (NICOPOLIS) .................................................................................................24 METEORA ...............................................................................................................................................25 BEREA (VERIA OR VEROIA) ................................................................................................................25 PELLA ......................................................................................................................................................25 VERGINA.................................................................................................................................................26 MT OLYMPOS .........................................................................................................................................26 PYDNA .....................................................................................................................................................26 METHINI ..................................................................................................................................................26 THESSALONIKI ......................................................................................................................................26 The Ancient Agora (Market Place) .......................................................................................................27 Overseas Travel GREECE Page 4 The Rotunda (Agios Georgios) .............................................................................................................27 The Arch of Galerius.............................................................................................................................27 The Agios Dimitríos (Church of St Dimitrios) ......................................................................................27 The Roman Baths ..................................................................................................................................28 The White Tower (Lefkos Pirgos) .........................................................................................................28 Statue of Alexander the Great ...............................................................................................................28 The Archaeological Museum ................................................................................................................28 The Folklife and Ethnological Museum ................................................................................................28 Roman Market & Square ......................................................................................................................28 The Ramparts ........................................................................................................................................28 APPOLONIA ............................................................................................................................................29 AMPHIPOLIS (AMFIPOLIS) ..................................................................................................................29 NEAPOLIS (KAVALA) ...........................................................................................................................29 PHILIPPI (CRENIDES – KRINIDES) ......................................................................................................29 Historical ..............................................................................................................................................29 Site of Philippi ......................................................................................................................................30 Upper Side of Phillipi ...........................................................................................................................30 Below the Road .....................................................................................................................................30 Baptismal Site of Lydia .........................................................................................................................31 THE GREEK ISLANDS .............................................................................................................................31 SAMOS .....................................................................................................................................................31 Pithagorio (Pythagoreio) ......................................................................................................................31 The Heraion ..........................................................................................................................................31 The Eupalionos Aquaduct .....................................................................................................................32 Samos town (Vathy) ..............................................................................................................................32 PATMOS ..................................................................................................................................................32 The Monastery of the Apocalypse .........................................................................................................32 LESBOS (MITYLENE, MYTLINI) .........................................................................................................33 DELOS ......................................................................................................................................................33 KOS (COOS).............................................................................................................................................33 RHODES ...................................................................................................................................................34 CRETE ......................................................................................................................................................34 APPENDIX 1 THE BATTLE OF PYDNA ..............................................................................................35 GREECE SDA CHURCH DETAILS Greek Mission: Address: Keramikou 18, Athens 10437 Greece – not far from Omonia Square. Phone: +30 (210) 5224-962 or +30 (210) 5242-650 Institutions: Light House Publishing Company – at headquarters as above. Voice of Hope Bible Correspondence School – as above Overseas Travel GREECE Page 5 Religious Freedom is tolerated; proselytising from and interference with the Greek Orthodox Church is forbidden. AREAS OF INTEREST a) Decisive Battles of History b) Athens c) South of Athens and the Peloponnese d) North and west from Athens e) The Greek Islands Travel Guides always provide a wealth of information. Dorling Kindersley publishes the Eyewitness Travel Guides which are among the best available. Two in particular would be helpful – “Greece – Athens & The Mainland” and “The Greek Islands”. THE COUNTRY Greece is located on the southern tip of the Balkan Peninsula in the eastern Mediterranean Sea. Greece has a population of around ten million. One fifth of the country is made up of islands. Greek thought, civilisation, and culture has influenced the world tremendously. GREAT EVENTS IN HISTORY 492 BC First Persian campaign – the Persian fleet wrecked at Athos 490 BC Battle of Marathon – Persian invasion under Darius stopped 480 BC Battle of Thermopylae and the naval battle of Artemision Persian fleet under Xerxes (Ahasuerus) defeated at Salamis Acropolis Destroyed by Persians –but the Persians defeated 338 BC Phillip II of Macedonia defeated Athens – Greece became part of Macedonian Empire 336 BC Alexander succeeded Phillip II 331 BC Alexander defeated the Persians at Arbela 323 BC Alexander died in Babylon 168 BC The Romans defeat the Greeks at Pydna 50 AD Paul’s Second Missionary Journey brings him to Phillipi, Thessaloniki, Berea, Athens, Corinth etc 58 AD Paul’s Third Missionary Journey he visits Macedonia and on to Corinth DECISIVE BATTLE SITES OF HISTORY MARATHON Is situated near Marathona just 40 km northeast from Athens. The battle was fought between the Persians and Athenians in September 490BC. Athens was in danger and the eleven generals were deciding whether to fight or submit (if to submit it would bring back the hated tyrant Hippias). Five generals decided to fight – five with the odds against them – voted not to fight. It was left to the last general Callimachus to vote. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 6 Miltiades, one of the generals who voted to fight said to Callimachus: “never since the Athenians were a people, were they in such danger as they are at this moment. If they bow the knee to these Medes, they are to be given up to Hippias, and you know what they will then have to suffer. But if Athens comes victorious out of this contest, she has it in her to become the first city of Greece. Your vote is to decide whether we are to join battle or not!” Unsurmountable odds, but Callimachus voted to fight. It changed the course of history. The Persians under Darius had landed 25,000 men at Marathon. Miltiades the Greek general had invited the Spartans to join him, but it was one of their festivals to Apollo. Pheidippides ran the 240 km to Sparta in 2 days and then ran back to Athens. With just 10,000 soldiers and 1000 from the Plateau, Miltiades had his soldiers – Take food and march!” With desperation and a brilliant flanking action, the Athenians overwhelmed the Persians, driving them back to their boats. The Persians lost 6,400 soldiers to just 197 Greeks (Herodotus says 192). The mound marking the burial place of the 197 Greeks may be seen today on the battle site. At the other end of the battle site is the mound used to bury the defeated Persians. Pheidippides ran from Marathon to Athens to carry the good news and gasped out, “Rejoice, we conquer!” and died from exhaustion. Thus was born the challenge of the gruelling 42.2 km marathon race – although the distance for the present marathon race came from the 1908 Olympics – the distance from the London Olympic stadium to Windsor castle and back. The book of Esther commences with Ahasuerus (Xerxes) planning to avenge the defeat of Darius his father at Marathon. Bibliography: “Battles of the Ancient World” Amber Books London 2007 Encyclopaedia Britannica THERMOPYLAE (THERMOPYLAI) Situated about 20 km southeast from Lamia is the battle site at the strategic pass just 15 m wide with the sea beside it. (Today the coast has retreated and is a marshy area some 6 km wide). The battle was fought in August 480 BC for three days. Xerxes had brought the largest army in history to avenge the defeat of his father Darius at Marathon. On his way he formed a bridge of boats over the Hellespont (between Europe and Asia). Xerxes was endeavouring to move south with his army to destroy Athens. 7,000 Greek soldiers at Thermopylae barred the way. For two days the Persians were kept at bay. Leonidas the Spartan general sent all troops south to safety except for 300 Spartans and Thespians at the northern end of the pass. Xerxes sent a message saying that he would darken the sky with Persian arrows! To which the Spartans replied, “We fight better in the shade!” Overseas Travel GREECE Page 7 Then a traitor Ephialtes came to Xerxes and revealed a secret pass at Kallidromos – and an alternative track called Anopaia. Using a flanking movement Xerxes trapped Leonidas with his 300 Spartans. Leonidas told his men to enjoy their breakfast for we shall dine tonight in Hades! Even though the Persians won the battle, 10,000 of Xerxes’ men perished – so fiercely did the Spartans fight. Thermopylae has become the cornerstone of freedom typified by the gallant Greek fighting. A monument to Leonidas and the 300 Spartans tells the story. Their burial site is opposite the monument with an inscription, “tell them in Sparta, passerby, that here, obedient to their orders, we lie”. A statue of Leonidas is to the north of the pass. The name Thermopylae comes from the ancient hot springs with a sulphurous smell. This was noted on the day of the battle. See the hot spring, the pass and the Kallidromos defile. Take the side road (Athens side) from Thermopylae to the mountains to get a spectacular view of the whole area. THE BATTLE OF SALAMIS The battle site was between the Island of Salamis and the mainland, just west of the Athenian port of Piraeus. The Greeks had already met the Persian fleet at the Battle of Artemission where a storm had damaged many Persian ships and the result was inconclusive. Now the Greek fleet had regrouped just to the south and west of Athens. The Greek fleet was predominately Athenian but had a good number of ships from the Peloponnesus area. The battle area was between Ayios Yeoryios and Psitalia Islands in the Straits of Salamis and north of the Kynosoura Peninsula of Salamis Island. The Strait of Salamis was just 1.5 km wide and nearly 5 km long. With the huge threat of the Persians, the oracle at Delphi had been consulted. The message was that Athens would be threatened by the Persians, but would be invincible behind a wooden rampart. The Greeks took the words of the oracle at Delphi. The wooden ships of Themistocles had been taken interpreted as the wooden rampart. It gave victory. The next year after the victory (479BC) a bronze serpent column was erected at Delphi in gratitude for the advice of the oracle. This column is now in the Hippodrome at Istanbul (or a broken portion of it). Xerxes at first tried to build a causeway across the strait but was prevented when archers killed so many working on the project. The date of the battle was 28 or 29 September 480 BC. It was the first great naval battle recorded in history – and the turning point in the fortunes of Xerxes. Xerxes the Persian monarch had sailed with his navy of 1200 ships (triremes) but with around 200 or more lost and others damaged by the storm and battle of Artemission he had around 700 with him at the battle of Salamis. Themistocles withdrew into the sheltered shallower waters thus luring the Persians to follow thinking they were in retreat. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 8 A false rumour had been circulated to this effect, and the Persians sailed into the trap set by the Greeks. The Greeks knew the local conditions and expected by 9.00 am a stiff breeze which would make the water very choppy. Triremes had a heavy brass ram in front of the ship which when sailed to an enemy boat pierced the ship below the waterline. The Persian triremes had rowers on three tiers and being a little lighter were much more unstable in the rough waters. The Greek admiral Themistocles who had 378 heavier triremes then turned to attack the Persians who with their large fleet had no room to manouver in the narrow strait. Other Greeks hidden before the battle came out to attack the flanks of the Persians. With a favourable wind change the more manoeuvrable Greek ships were able to attack the Persian fleet sinking many and setting some on fire.; Other Greek ships sheared off the oars from one side of the many Persian ships rendering them useless. Over 300 of the Persian ships were sunk (there were just 40 Greek losses) with many more dispersed. By evening the shores were littered with Persian bodies and wrecks. One Persian ship had been commanded by the Queen of Artemission who attacked one Persian ship to fool the Greeks and then escaped. Xerxes, who had anticipated a great Persian victory, had witnessed the battle from his throne placed on a high cliff of Mt Aegaleos on a promontory east of Perama (about midway along the Perama coast). The loss of Salamis meant Xerxes had to curtail his land offensive and after a battle at Plateau, Xerxes returned home with scarcely 4000 men of the claimed 5 million (probably 520,000) who had come with him. On his return to Persia, Esther chapter 2 continues the story of Xerxes (Ahasuerus) with the words, “After these things….” Bibliography: Battles of the Ancient World” Amber Books London 2007 “The Greatest Naval Battle of the Ancient World – Salamis” Strauss Arrow Books London 2005 “That Day at Salamis” PYDNA Is situated about 25 km northeast of Katerini south of Kitros, near the coast (south of Cape Atheridha or Akra Atheridha). The Battle of Pydna was fought here 22 June 168 BC between Perseus the Macedonian King and the Roman General Lucius Aemililus Paullus. Paullus manoeuvred Persues from his impregnable position at Elpeus on the Mavrolongos River to Pydna. He made a couple of forward thrusts and finally took control over a mountain pass and forced Perseus to come to battle. Perseus had around 44000 Macedonian troops including some cavalry. Paullus had 38000 men and a number of elephants for warfare. A lunar eclipse was to occur the night prior to the battle and the Roman leaders knew of this and prepared their soldiers accordingly. The elephants were used first and dislodged the flank of the Macedonians. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 9 After the phalanx of the Macedonians was broken a massacred took place of the Macedonians. This battle resulted in Perseus fleeing after great losses of 25,000 killed and taken prisoner. This was the end of the Macedonian monarchy and gave Rome the supremacy. Macedonia was divided into four republics. And became the first Greek province of Rome. It is usually regarded as the battle that was the watershed with Greek power bowing to Roman might. Perseus had fled to his capital – but Pallus came for him and he surrendered being paraded in Rome as a captive. Bibliography: “Battles of the Ancient World” Amber Books London 2007 Encyclopaedia Brittanica ATHENS Athens is the capital city of Greece and has a population of around 5.5 million. The metro from the airport is the cheapest way of getting into the city. THE ACROPOLIS Is a steep hill 70 m high (230 ft) located in the centre of the city. The city has been occupied since 3500 BC. The Propylaia It dates from 438 – 432 BC. It is the monumental entrance gate to the Acropolis. It was built by Pericles and is adorned with Doric and Ionic columns. The Temple of Athena Nike Is situated to the right of The Propylaia as you enter. It was a temple to commemorate the Athenians’ victory over the Persians. It has scenes from the Battle of Plataia of 479 BC. It was a shrine to the goddess of Victory – Athena Nike. It was rebuilt in 1935. The Athena Promachos It was the place between the Propylaia and the Parthenon where a colossal bronze statue was located. It could be seen out to sea by sailor’s etc. The Erechtheion It is situated on the northern side of the Acropolis. It is a temple dedicated to two gods – Athena Polias on the eastern side and also Erechtheus-Poseidon on the western side. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 10 Poseidon in Greek mythology is supposed to have left his trident marks here. On the southern side is the Porch of the Caryatids – the maiden statues. This building has been a temple, a harem for the Turkish commander in 1463. It was almost destroyed by a Turkish shell in 1827 during the War of Independence. The Parthenon (The Temple of the Virgins) This was built to show the glory of Athens and has become the symbol of Athens and Greece. It was begun to be constructed in 447 BC, and dedicated in 438 BC. It had the statue of Athena Parthenos – the Maiden – the main goddess. It was constructed of marble with no mortar – about 68.5 m long and 30 m wide and 18 m high. There are no straight lines or absolute perpendiculars. Curved lines were used to counteract optical illusions. Every part of the building was built on a 9:4 ratio to appear perfectly symmetrical. It was a temple to Athena for 900 years, a Christian Church dedicated to the Virgin Mary for 1000 years, and a Moslem mosque for 200 years. It was destroyed by a gunpowder explosion in 1687 with the Venetians fighting the Turks here. Famous sculptures from the Parthenon frieze are called the Elgin Marbles. These are in the British Museum as Lord Elgin who bought them from the Turks around 1802 sold them to the British Museum in 1816. The Greeks believe they should be returned to them and housed in the Acropolis Museum. The north side of the Acropolis has eaves where the ancient Greeks worshipped different divinities. The Acropolis Museum Is situated on the eastern end of the Acropolis. It has exhibits, sculptures and other finds – many of them fragments but showing the development of Greek art etc. The Theatre of Dionysos It dates from the 4th century BC. The Theatre of Dionysos is located on the south side of the Acropolis. It could hold around 17,000 spectators. This is considered the birthplace of Greek Tragedy. Emperor Nero of Rome added the mosaic marble flooring and the front row of thrones for dignitaries. Above the Theatre is a cave – the Byzantine Chapel of the Virgin of the Cave. Just above the cave near the wall, are two Corinthian columns – The Monument of Thrasyllos a sponsor of successful dramatic performances. It was built around 320BC. The Asklepeion of Athens This Shrine to Asklepias is a little to the west of the Theatre of Dionysus. The sick came here to be healed at the temples to the gods of Asclepias and Hygea. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 11 The Theatre or Odeon of Herod Attius It is cut into the hill just south of the Propylaia and up the hill considerably from the Theatre of Dionysos. It is still used for summer concerts and holds around 5000. Some re-paving was done around the orchestra area early in the 1950’s. Mars Hill – The Areopagos It is situated to the west of the Propylaia, with the steps being about 100 m away from the entrance to the Acropolis Today it is just a bare rock. It was originally the site of the City Court of Athens – the Supreme Court in Classical Greece. Originally it was named after the mythical Greek God Ares was tried here for the murder of the son of Poseidon. It was used by both the Persians and later the Turks in their attacks on the Acropolis, and a good view of the Acropolis is had from here. The Apostle Paul preached here on his Second Missionary Journey around 51AD. (See Acts 17:19-34). Paul looked out northwards over the Agora and preached pointing the Greeks to “the Unknown God”. Dionysios from here became his convert and is regarded as the patron saint of Athens. Philopappus Hill (Filopáppos) Is situated to the southwest of the Acropolis. It is covered with pine trees. There is a monument here to the Syrian Consul - Antiochus Philopappus - who blessed Athens in the 2nd century AD. The Hill was in ancient times dedicated to the Muses (the nine goddesses presiding over the arts and sciences). Pnyx Hill Is to the west of the Areopagus. The citizens of Athens used to meet here. Some 6000 Athenians met here about 40 times a year to listen to speeches and make political decisions. Speakers such as Demonsthenes, Perikles and Themistokles all spoke here. Today it is used for the Sound and Light production presented here in several languages each night. THE ANCIENT AGORA This public place of Ancient Athens was also a market place. It is situated to the north of Mars Hill and the Acropolis. Entrance is either down the hill from Mars Hill or from the city at Adriáou in Monastiraki. It was the place where democracy was practised in the Council and also the law courts. Socrates was tried and then executed in the prison here in 399 BC. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 12 The Stoas with their shops, the theatre and schools and temples made this the meeting-place for Athens. Paul walked along here probably from Mars Hill and saw the Altar to the Unknown God. The Stoa of Attalos Is situated on the right hand side of the Agora going from Mars Hill. It was built between 159 and 138 BC. It was reconstructed in 1956 and is a museum of local finds. The Tower of the Winds Is located just within the Agora area on the northeastern side close to the city area. It is an octagonal building originally built in the 2nd century BC in marble. It is just over 12 m in height and its diameter is 8 m. It was built to house a waterclock – a hydraulic clock built by Andronicus. Each of the eight sides has at the top of the panels a relief carving of mythological winds. The Whirling Dervishes used the Tower as a monastery in the 18th century and weekly presented the frenzied dance called the Sema. The Hephaisteion This temple is on the far left coming from Mars Hill. It is the best-preserved temple from Ancient Greece. Hephaestus a mythical Greek god created the first mortal woman – Pandora. The temple was dedicated to the gods of the smiths and the arts. It became a Christian church which saved it from destruction. Other Places in the Agora The Altar of Zeus. The Statue of Hadrian (headless now). HADRIAN’S ARCH Is situated some three blocks east of the Theatre of Dionysos across the main road Leoforos Andrea Syngrou just past where it meets the street from the Acropolis Dionysiou Areopagitou. The Arch was built in 131 AD. Hadrian wished to build a new city of Athens and this was the boundary. THE TEMPLE OF OLYMPIAN ZEUS Is situated at the rear of Hadrian’s Arch. It is the largest ancient temple in Greece. Initially commenced in the 6th century BC it was not completed for over 650 years. Hadrian dedicated it to Zeus in 132 AD. Originally it had over 100 Corinthian columns nearly 17 m high – but today only 15 remain. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 13 SYNTAGMA SQUARE Is situated about 750 m north from Hadrian’s Arch along Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias, and one Metro stop from Omonia Square. Is also called Plateía Syntágmos. Here is located the Greek Parliament. The Tomb of the Unknown Soldier guarded by the National Guard with their white kilts and pompom clogs. While the guards change each hour, the best display is on Sunday at 11.00 am/ The Tomb has some text from Perikles’s funeral oration. OMONIA SQUARE (PLATEIA OMONOIAS) Is the square in the centre of the city. All distances in Greece are measured from here. Is about 1.5 km northwest of Syntagma Square along Stadiou Street. On Stadiou Street along the way is the National Historical Museum and the City of Athens Museum. The Square is also the centre of the Underground train system. THE NATIONAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM From Omonia Square take Patissíon Street for around 750 m and then one block east. It has Mycenaean gold masks and gold cups. Objects from Troy are here. Also two bodies chained together (see Paul’s reference to this in Romans 7). LYCABETTUS (LYKAVITTOS) Is a conical hill not far from the centre of Athens It is 277 m high (910 ft) and can be climbed, or by use of the funicular railway. The small Monastery of St George is located at the top. A great view of Athens can be had from here – it being he highest hill in the city. PIRAEUS Is the port for Athens – just 8 km away and today is part of the great metropolis. It was called Porto Leone in the Middle Ages after a marble statue of a lion which stood at the entrance to the harbour (now outside the arsenal in Venice). Here ferries leave for the Greek Islands (including Patmos) and ships regularly sail to most European ports and the Middle East. The Underground rail is a convenient way to travel from Athens. There is a small Archaeological Museum just to the west of the Zea (Pasalimani) boating harbour at 31 Harilaou Trikoupi Street. PERAMA Is located about 4 km west of Piraeus. On the hill above this town on the Saronic Gulf near the Island of Salamis, is where Xerxes (Ahasuerus) had his throne placed so he could watch his navy be victorious over the Greeks. He saw an annihilation of his fleet and had to leave for home defeated. See the details under The Battle of Salamis. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 14 SOUTH OF ATHENS CAPE SOUNION Is situated southeast of Athens on the tip of the Attic peninsula. In the 5th century BC, a classical temple was built here to Poseidon – the most important deity to the Athenians after Athena. It was by the power of Poseidon that the Greeks became masters of the Mediterranean. At the temple of Poseidon, graffiti of travellers is noted including that of Lord Byron who died in Greece during the War of Independence. Day trips from Athens will take you here. ATHENS TO CORINTH AND THE PELOPONESE DAFNI (DAPHNE) Is situated just 10 km from Athens on the road to Eleusis and Corinth. Originally it was a site for a Temple to Apollo. A monastery was built in the 5th century AD, which was destroyed by the Barbarians and then rebuilt around 1080 AD. The Dukes of Athens were buried here until the Turks captured it in 1458 AD. In the church are delightful Biblical mosaics that date to the 11th century mostly depicting scenes from the life of Christ. ELEUSIS Is situated just over 20 km northwest of Athens. Once it was an important place of worship and an independent town of Attica. It joined Athens about 1200 BC. Today it is an industrial centre with 20,000 inhabitants. At Eleusis, the Cult of Demeter and daughter Persephone were worshipped in the Eleusian mysteries which were practised from 1500 BC for 2000 years. Here the Ploutonion is a cave where Persophone is said to have lived. The worshippers were promised a happy life on earth and a blissful existence in the life to come. The initiates were called “mystai” with various stages of initiation. The final initiation came in September. A procession from Athens to Eleusis included thousands of initiates led by the “mystagogos” chanting hymns decked in special garb with floral wreaths. They held the “bakchos” the mystic staff and completed their journey in the Hall of the Mysteries. Today, dating from the 4th century BC, are the ruins of the Temple of Artemis, the Great Prophylae and the Telesterion (where the mysteries took place). The Museum of Eleusis has most of the finds from excavations. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 15 MEGARA Is situated almost midway between Athens and the Corinthian Canal – some 25 km past Eleusis. Socrates spent time here teaching his pupils. HERAION Is situated on the western extremity of the Perachora Peninsula directly across the Gulf of Corinth, from Corinth. It is approx 25 km northwest of Loutraki. This sanctuary dated to the 8th century BC. The ruins of the temple are near the harbour and the stoa is in the same area with an altar dating to the 4th century BC. THE CORINTHIAN CANAL Is an engineering feat 6.34 km long and 24.6 m wide and 8 m deep, allowing ships up to 10,000 tons saving the long trip around the Peloponnese. The walls of the canal rise to 79.4 m (260 ft). Originally the concept of a canal was begun by Nero but never completed. The canal was constructed between 1882 and 1893 AD. In ancient times a slipway transported small vessels over the isthmus. Ships would load and unload their cargoes at Chenchrea and Lechaion. Some remains of the “Diolkos” or portage way is seen at the west end of the canal near the Possidonia Bridge over the canal. Some stones have letters of the Corinthian alphabet on them. Ruts 1.5 m apart made from the chariots which carried the small ships overland are also visible. The canal portage system functioned from the 6th century BC to the 12th century AD. An excellent view of the canal is from the road bridge. ISTHMIA Is situated at the eastern end of the Corinthian Canal – about 1 km southwest of the bridge and about 15 km from Corinth near the village of Kyravryssi (Kyras Vrysi). It was the site of the Isthmian Games in Paul’s time. They had been held every second year from 582BC. The winner received a wreath of wild celery or spruce. The Isthmian Truce was observed between the Corinthian and other Greek States. The Temple of Poseidon, built in the 7th century BC, was destroyed by fire in 394 BC and then rebuilt. Stones from it were used by Justinian to build a Byzantine fortress east of the theatre. Mosaics with dolphins and fish etc are to be seen here in the old Roman Baths. A unique starting gate is one of the most impressive things to see here. CENCHREA (KENCHREAI) Is situated about 2 km south of Isthmia at the village now called Kekhrias. It was the eastern harbour for Corinth. Here in the sea is a beautiful mosaic floor, and the foundations of buildings under water. Paul landed here in 51AD and also sailed from here to Ephesus (Acts 18:18). Paul introduced Phoebe, who lived here, and who took a letter to Rome around 53AD. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 16 About 2 km south of Cenchrea is a salt-water spring known as Helen’s Bath (Loutro Elenis). CORINTH (KORINTHOS) Situated 60 km west of Athens on the Gulf of Corinth on the Peloponnese. History of Corinth By legend, Corinth was founded by Korinthos, grandson of the winged horse Pegasus and killed by the Chimera. The city was destroyed by the Roman Consul Mummius in 146 BC and was laid waste until rebuilt by Julius Caesar in 44BC. The golden bronze (gold and silver alloy) from the statues was taken back to Rome and used for the roof of the Pantheon. Later it was removed by Pope Alexander VII to make the Baldaquin in St. Peter’s. It became the largest and wealthiest city of Greece. Wheat from Sicily, papyrus from Egypt, ivory from Libya, leather from Cyrenaica, incense from Arabia, dates from Phoenicia, apples and pears from Euboia, carpets from Carthage and slaves from Phrygia were traded here. It had two harbours, Cenchrea (Acts 18:18, Rom 16:1) on the east – now Kenkhreai, and Lechaeum (Lechaion) on the Gulf of Corinth. It was a city with sailors, merchants, adventurers and refugees and considered by Christians as a wicked city. It was a centre for painters and architects (Corinthian columns etc). Ceramic vases from local clay, and tiny perfume flasks were produced as well as bronze statues etc. Also glass and purple cloth were made and traded. The naval shipyard built the first triremes here. Paul found the Christian church here during his Second Missionary Journey. He spent 18 months here in 50 – 51 AD (Acts 18:1-8). Crispus the chief ruler of the synagogue and his house believed. When the Jews opposed Paul, he turned to the Gentiles (Acts 13:46-52). Titus and Timothy were here (1 Cor 4:17; 2 Cor 7:13-15) and from here Paul wrote 1 Thessalonians (Acts 17:15; 18:1,5; and 1 Thess 1:1). Here Paul met Aquila and Priscilla and plied his trade as a tent-maker (leather-worker?). Their great wealth led the Corinthians into luxury and sensual pleasure. The Temple of Aphrodite had over 1000 priestesses or sacred prostitutes (possibly slaves). Diogenes the Cynic lived in a barrel or earthenware jar in the 4th century BC. The city was destroyed in 521 AD by a severe earthquake and except for the Acrocorinth laid in ruins until the 10th century. ANCIENT CORINTH Is situated about 7 km southwest of modern Corinth (Korinthos). It was excavated from 1896 with most remains dating to the Roman period. There could have been up to 20,000 Jews living here in the times of Paul. The area of Cranium (a skull) is just before entering Corinth from Cenchrea (the east). Latin inscriptions have been found on marble etc. The Temple of Apollo It dominates the site on the northwest of the Agora. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 17 It was built in the middle of the 6th century BC. Seven of its 38 Doric columns still stand – being monoliths rather than being constructed of drums. Cut from tufa, they were originally covered with stucco. The Theatre and the Odeon Situated to the northwest outside the enclosed area. The Odeon dates to the 1st century AD and would seat about 3000 spectators. The Theatre dates from the 5th century BC and was remodelled in the 3rd century AD to accommodate gladiatorial combats and nautical spectacles. It could hold 18,000 people. In the plaza of the theatre is an inscription in marble, that tells that Erastus repaired the area. Erastus was the Director of Public Works of Corinth. Erastus just happens to be mentioned by Paul in Romans 16:23. The Fountain of Glauke Situated to the left of the main entrance before the museum. Four cistern were cut from a huge monolith stone and filled by an aqueduct. It stands over 2 m high still today. The Museum Is situated south of the Fountain of Glauke and near the Temple of Octavia. It has a good selection of pottery and other items dating to the 4th millenium BC. It has statues of Augustus and Lucius Caesar, the grandson of Augustus; also a head of Nero; some mosaics and large statues which originally stood in the Agora. The museum here at Corinth also has a lintel from a Jewish synagogue showing three menorah or candlesticks. The Agora This huge open space has two levels. On the northern side beside the Temple of Apollo are the ruins of 15 shops from Roman times. There are the ruins of a row of central shops. In the centre of this row is the Bema. On the western side of the Agora is the Temple of Venus, the Pantheon and the Temples of Herakles, Poseidon, Apollo (not the larger edifice) and then Hermes, with the Rotunda of Babbius in front of the Temple of Apollo and beside that of Poseidon. The Bema (or Tribune) This was a platform in the centre of the central row of shops from which Gallio the Roman Governor summoned Paul (Acts 18:12-17) and let him go. Gallio was the brother of Seneca. There is evidence that a Christian church was built here in the Middle Ages. South Stoa Situated on the south side of the Agora. It had 33 shops along its side. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 18 The Office of Agonothetes (third room in the row of shops from the east) has a Roman mosaic floor. The Sacred Fountain It is situated in front of the northern row of shops and on the Agora. Seven steps led down to the Sacred Spring. A secret passage led from here slightly northwest to the Sanctuary of the oracle where a hidden priest beneath the altar answered the petitioners who thought they were in direct contact with their god. The Propylaia It was situated on the northern side of the Agora at the beginning of the Lechaion Way (Road to Lechaion). Its base only remains, but it was a huge monumental entrance to the Agora with two gold chariots of Helios and Phaeton (his son) surmounting the entrance. The Peirene Fountain It dates originally to the 6th century BC and totally rebuilt by Herodes Atticus in marble in the 2nd century AD. It has six stone arches before a row of underground reservoirs. The Baths of Eurykles Are situated east of the Lechaion Way and north of the Peirene Fountain. They are well preserved. Also here is a 20 seat public toilet from Roman times. The Sanctuary of Asklepios Is situated 600 m north along the Lechaion Way. It was dedicated to the god of medicine. The Fountain of Lema supplied hydrotherapy facilities. ACROCORINTH (AKROKORINTHOS) Is the hill south of Corinth with the ruins of the Temple of Aphrodite and other fortifications and ruins. The hill is 575 m high (1887 ft) and takes about 2 hours on foot. A road leaves Corinth past the Hotel Xenia and the old potter’s district, past a Turkish fountain and the remains of a Temple to Demeter to the citadel entrance. It has been a fortress site for Greeks, Romans, Franks, Neopolitans, Venezians, Knights of Rhodes and the Turks. The first gate dates to the 14th century AD and had a moat hewn out of rock. The second and third gates assisted the defence. Note the remains of a Turkish mosque, a minaret (minus its spire), and the Keep of the Frankish castle. At the eastern end is the Peirene Spring with steps down to a chamber flooded with water. Legend has it that the spring was made by Pegasus the winged horse stamping his foot. The site of the Temple of Aphrodite is on the highest point of the mountain – marked by a column - there are great views from here. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 19 LECHAION Is situated just over 2 km from Ancient Corinth on the Gulf of Corinth. It was the western port for Corinth in its trade over the isthmus. The harbour is now silted up – but the old outlines are distinguishable. To the west of Lechaion, between 1956 and 1961, archaeologists excavated and discovered the largest Christian Basilica in Greece (220 m long). It dated from the 5th century. KALAVRYTA (KALAVRITA) Is a mountain town some 20 km inland from Diakofto on the southern side of the Gulf of Corinth. A small cog railway chugs up to this mountain town. There is a Martyr’s Monument and a museum in the old school house which commemorates the massacre here by Germans on 13 December 1943. Mt Helmos is just over 20 km away and is a skiing area in winter and the place for great hikes in summer MYCANAE (MYKENAI – MIKINES) Is about 30 km southwest of Corinth. The site was excavated by Heinrich Schliemann from1874 who hoped to find the tomb of Agamemnon and his retainers who were assassinated during a banquet by Aigisthos. The Mycanaens came from the earliest Greek tribes and date to the early 2nd millennium BC. Legend says that Mycanae was founded by Perseus the son of Zeus who built the walls with the help of the Cyclops (one-eyed giants). Mycanae was one of the richest Mediterranean states – it had close relations with Crete and is noted for its gold. The acropolis was built on a hill 278 m high with steep ravines on two sides. Ramparts which surround the acropolis are built of undressed stone between 3 and 8 m thick. The Lion Gate The entrance to the Citadel – with two lions (minus heads) gave an impressive entrance. A tower and thick walls also protect the gateway. Note the huge size of the blocks of stone – the lintel about 20 tonnes. The First Circle of Royal Tombs It was thought by Schliemann to be the tomb of Agamemnon. It has proved to predate that age. The bodies of 19 have been discovered – 8 men, 9 women and 2 children. Golden objects found weighed 14 kg. The Tomb of Agamemnon or the Treasury of Atreus The largest and most beautiful of the 9 communal beehive tombs on the western side of the acropolis. The interior lintel weighs about 120 tonnes. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 20 A passage leads to a smaller chamber hollowed out of rock. It dates to between 1200 and 1300 BC. The Palace Is situated on the top of the hill and dates from the 15th century BC. The floor was paved with slabs of gypsum. The Secret Aqueduct Located at the eastern end it leads down by 99 steps to a 3000 year old underground cistern about 13 m deep. It was fed with water from the Spring of Perseia outside the walls. Terracotta conduits were used. ARGOS Is situated some 45 km south of Corinth. It is one of the most ancient towns in Greece. It reached its zenith in the 7th century BC. Thee were schools of sculpture and philosophy here. The Theatre of Argos seats 20,000 – the largest in ancient Greece with originally 90 rows of seats (now 83). The seats are hewn from the rock. The Temple of Hera is similar to the Parthenon (Doric style) – a great view of the surrounding area is had from here. The ancient Fort, the Agove, and the Roman Odeum are all worth a visit. Every two years the Panhellenic games (called the Nemean Games) were held here. TIRYNS (TIRYNTHA) Is situated about 15 km east of Argos. During the 13th century BC Tiryns was subject to Mycanae and fought under Agamemnon in the Trojan War, but by the next century it had become independent. The ruins date from the 13th century BC. Walls are made of huge stones (3.5 m by 1.5 m) and in fact are believed to have been constructed by the Cyclops, as almost superhuman strength would have been needed. The entrance protected the city very well from attack. The palace is built on the highest level of the acropolis. Tiryns was destroyed by Argos in 468 BC. NAUPLION (NAFPLIO) Is situated on the coast some 11 km southeast of Argos. It was the first capital of Free Greece 1829 – 34. It is built around two fortresses – the gigantic Palamidi and Acronauplia. The Palamidi fortress is located on the top of a hill (216 m) at the back of the town. It was the base for Leon Sgouros in his capture of Corinth in 1202 AD. The Crusaders captured the fortress in 1246, but in 1387 the Venetians captured it and made it a powerful stronghold of their empire. While the Turks could not capture it, it was given to them by treaty in 1546. The first president of Greece was murdered here 27 September 1831. Then the country voted to have Otho of Bavaria as king. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 21 Kolokotronis was one of those who fiercely resisted the monarchy and was condemned to death, but spent only a little time in this fortress before being reprieved. The fort of Bourtzi on an island in the harbour is not a hotel. EPIDAURUS (EPIDAVROS) Is situated some 50 km east of Argos in the northeastern part of the Peloponnese. In Greek mythology Asklepios of Apollo and Koronis (a Boeotian princess) was taught the art of healing. He developed the ability to resurrect the dead, bringing on him the wrath of Hades and Zeus and was stuck dead by a thunderbolt and was buried at Epidaurus. His symbol – a serpent has become adopted by the medical profession. It became the most renowned sanatorium in Greece and functioned from 600 BC to 400 AD. There was a mixture of healing by the priests with their messages together with baths, relaxation and other exercises. The theatre built in the 4th century BC by Polyclitus, was restored in 1954 AD and can accommodate 14,000 spectators. It is designed so that a whisper from the stage or orchestra can be heard to the back rows. There is also a gymnasium, Odeon and Temple of Asklepios. SPARTA Is situated towards the central south of the Peloponnese some 160 km south of Corinth. It was settled by a Greek tribe the Dorians around 1200 BC. An archaeological museum and Leonidas Tomb (on the acropolis) are interesting. The Sanctuary of Artemis Orthis is where the young Spartans endured their ritual initiations. MYSTRA Is situated 6 km from Sparta. Franks settled in this area after the collapse of the Byzantine Empire in 1204 AD. The castle was built in 1249 AD by William de Villehardouin who came from Champagne in France. With its cathedral, several churches, despot’s palace, monastery and museum there is much to see. OLYMPIA Is situated on the central western part of the Peloponnese about 12 km east of Pirgos and 15 km from the coast, at the confluence of the Aferíos and Kládeos Rivers. The site dates back to the 2nd millenium BC (house remains) and the 3rd millenium BC with potsherds. From 776 BC records were kept of the winners in the foot race around the Stadion. Originally the Olympic Games had but one race of about 200 m. Olympic Games were held here until 393 AD when they were banned by the Emperor Theodosius. Between 150,000 and 200,000 are thought to have attended the games at any time – in the summer. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 22 The games consisted of running, boxing, wrestling and the pentathlon (running, jumping, wrestling, and throwing the discus and the javelin), and originally were religious as well as athletic in nature., with prayers and sacrifices aplenty. It is a beautiful site beneath the slopes of Mr. Kronion between the Alpheios and Kladeos rivers. Although mentioned by Dom Montfaucon in 1723, discovered by Richard Chandler in 1766, and then by Winckelmann in 1768, the first excavations only took place in 1829 by Abel Blouet. Ernest Curtis spent six years excavating in detail. The excavations led to the revival of the Olympic Games in 1896 in Athens. The Panhellenic Games included those at Olympia as well as Delphi (Pythian Games), Corinth (Isthmian Games), Argos (Nemean Games). Winners received garlands – laurel, pine needle, and parsley wreaths respectively. Note the Stadium Entrance with its vaulted ceiling. The Temple of Zeus The size was about the same as the Parthenon in Athens. It was destroyed by a massive earthquake in the 6th century AD. It housed a huge statue of Olympian Zeus – 13.5 m high and made of wood overlaid with gold. This statue was one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It represented the king of gods and was seated on a throne of ebony and ivory. A sceptre with an eagle in his left hand and a chryselephantine (victory) in his right hand and a laurel wreath on his head completed the statue. The Museum It has many finds from the site including pieces of the Temple of Zeus, There are also statues of Zeus and the famous Hermes in polished marble. Other Places of Interest The Palestra (the sports arena) The Temple of Hera – possibly the oldest temple in Greece The Exedra of Herod Atticus The Terrace of the Treasuries NORTH FROM ATHENS DELPHI Situated about 180 km northwest of Athens and north of the Gulf of Corinth. It is at an elevation of around 600m in the southern foothills of Mt. Parnassus – 2450m – which dominates the area. It is perhaps the most famous of all cult sites in the world with its Sanctuary of Apollo and the oracle (Sibyl – sometimes called Pythia). Originally legend says that goats grazing on the site breathed in fumes and gases from a vent in the ground and began leaping around erratically. The goatherd investigated and when he peered into the hole did the same. The site does have two fault lines that cross where the Delphic Oracle would sit, and it has been shown that ethylene gas is emitted from here – and/or at the nearby spring. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 23 The priestess or oracle was originally a local virgin; the oracle later was a woman over 50 with a life beyond reproach. The oracle was first known as the Pythia and later as the Delphic Sibyl giving replies from Apollo to questions from pilgrims. She drank from the Cassotis fountain near the temple (it gave the gift of prophecy) and breathed the fumes from burning laurel lives (Apollo’s tree), sat on the famous tripod – and went into a trance. The priests interpreted the sounds uttered and the posture and convulsive movements and gave the message in ambiguous language in hexameter verse to pilgrims (male only). The oracle’s messages have been recorded back to the 2nd millenium BC. Some of the most famous include:a) Oresetes told he could expiate the murder of his mother by bringing the cult of Artemis from Tauris in Sychia. b) The citizens of Megara were directed in 680 BC to found Byzantion (Constantinople) on the Bosphorus. c) King Kroisos (Croesus) of Lydia was told in 547 BC that if he crossed the river Halys he would destroy a great kingdom. He crossed it and his own kingdom was defeated by the Persians and destroyed. d) In 480 BC, the oracle declared that when the Persians threatened Athens it would be invincible behind a wooden rampart (ships). Thus Themistokles defeated the Persians at Salamis using a wooden rampart (ships). In victory the Athenians erected a bronze serpent on a pole at Delphi – now standing in the Hippodrome in Istanbul. The Delphic oracle attained its zenith about the 7th can 6th centuries BC. In the 1st century BC the Barbarians invaded the sanctuary. Nero carried off hundreds of statues but it was still active under Hadrian in the 2nd century AD. In 392 AD Emperor Theodosius decreed the end of paganism and all such shrines were closed. Delphi was discovered by Ulrichs a German archaeologist, and excavated by the French in 1892. The Sanctuary of Apollo You enter by the Sacred way past a series of votive monuments and Treasure houses (each city-state of Greece had their own). The Rock of the Sibyl is halfway along this Sacred Way. The Corinthian Treasure house was where King Midas of Phrygia and King Kroisos (Croesus) also had made offerings. Just prior to the main entrance is a circular base where the Brazen Serpent – the Serpent Column of 479BC had stood with three intertwined snakes. The first Temple to Apollo burned down in 548BC. The second collapsed in 373BC and the third was built 346 – 320 BC. The temple had inscriptions from the Greek sages in the portico, “Know Thyself”, “Nothing in excess” etc. The temple also had the omphalos stone, a gold statue of Apollo, and the laurel tree over the opening for the oracle and the tripod of Pythia. The Kassotis spring was thought to have prepared the sibyl to prophesy. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 24 The Theatre It could accommodate around 5000 people. Drama plays here re-enacted the struggle between Apollo and the Python etc/. From the top row of seats – you can get a great view. The Stadium Here the Pythian Games were held from 590 BC. It is used for plays now during the Delphi Festival in summer. The Castalian Spring Is situated to the east of the sacred precinct – located in a gorge. Votive offerings were made here – as well as purification rites. The Sanctuary of Marmaria The title Marmaria has been used since the site was used as a marble quarry. This site with the Tholos in the Athena Pronaia had 20 columns in a circle (Doric columns on the outside and Corinthian columns on the inside). The three columns still standing have become one of the pictures associated with Delphi worldwide. It was thought that this was a shrine to the earth goddess (Ge or Gaia). The Museum It contains many of the items recovered by the French archaeologists. The cone shaped block of marble at the top of the entrance represents the agrenon – a copy of the famous omphalos or navel from the Temple of Apollo which marked the centre of the world. The Winged Sphinx of Naxiots (Naxos or Naxia) is in the Hall of the Siphian Treasury. Some of the marble frieze showed scenes from the Trojan War. In the Hall of the Kouroi are two Kouroi – huge Archaic statues dated to the 6th century BC. In the Hall of the Bull is the Archaic bull made with silver plates over copper strips on a wooden framework. The Hall of the Monument of Daochos has three marble dancers where were priestesses of Dionysos. The Hall of the Charioteer has the very famous and well-preserved bronze charioteer from the 5th century BC. THE CORYCIAN CAVE An excursion from Delphi can be made to the Corycian Cave about 45 km eastwards towards Arahova. Here was a god with associations with the god Pan and the Nymphs where nearby orgies were held in honour of Dionysos. It is an extensive cave with a few stalactites and is naturally well lit. PREVEZA & NIKOPOLI (NICOPOLIS) Is situated on the west coast some 100 km north of the Gulf of Corinth at the mouth of the Amvrakikós Gulf just on the northern side of the Channel of Cleopatra. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 25 The city of Préveza was built by Octavian – who became known as Augustus Caesar after his victory here over Mark Antony and Cleopatra on 2 September 31 BC. In the days of Octavian the town was known as Actium and the battle – the Battle of Actium. The Apostle Paul invited Titus to join him here around 66 or 67 AD, while he spent the winter here. The ruins of Nicopolis are about 7 km north of Préveza. METEORA Metéora is situated in the centre of Greece in northwestern Thessaly about 100 km west of Larisa and around 60 km northwest of Trikala. Turn off the E92 at Kalambaka. It has been a stronghold of the Eastern Orthodox Church since the 11th century. It is a very popular tourist destination because of the unusual rock formation, coupled with the continuing presence of the monasteries. There are 24 perpendicular rock formations up to 300m high separated by precipitous drops and ravines. The monasteries of Metéora (it means “In the air”) are perched on the tops of the rocky outcrops. Originally reached by rope ladders (which could be hauled in) bridle tracks, and windlasses with baskets, modern roads now bring civilisation to these places of retreat and prayer. Hermits commenced living here in the 11th century – some in caves. Monasteries were established from the 14th century and originally numbered around 24 during the 15th and16th centuries. Today thee are just five -= while that of St. Nicholas (agios Nikolaos Anapafsas) is below on the road to Metéora. These are St. Stephens, The Holy Trinity, Roussanou, Valaám and The Great Meteoron Monastery (Megalo Metóro). St. Stephens and Roussanou monasteries are today inhabited by nuns. The monks still endeavour to find through asceticism, repentance and the daily round of prayer etc, the knowledge of themselves and share in the divine. Many relics, treasures, icons, ancient books, - often on silk or parchment, paintings etc are here. BEREA (VERIA OR VEROIA) Is a small town some 80 km southwest of Thessaloniki. It is in the foothills of Mt. Vermion. It dates to the 4th or 5th centuries BC Paul visited here on his Second Missionary Journey and probably also his Third Journey. “Paul’s Altar’ is a place in the centre of the town where Paul preached. It has good mosaics. At that time he wrote of the noble attitude of the Bereans who searched the Scriptures daily (Acts 17:11). Diocletian made it one of the capitals of Macedonia. PELLA Is situated some 40 km northwest of Thessaloniki just past Néa Khalkidhon on the E86 – the road to Edhessa. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 26 This was once the capital of the kingdom of Macedon. Philip II of Macedon was born here in 382BC. Alexander the Great was born here in 365BC – son of Philip and Princess Olympia. One of his tutors was Aristotle. The town was destroyed by the Romans after the Battle of Pydna, 168 BC. The site was only discovered in 1957 and has been excavated since then. In the museum are a number of mosaics (pavements as well as floors of houses), including one showing Alexander being saved in a lion hunt by Krateros. There is also a cast head of Alexander. VERGINA Is situated some 12 km south of Veroia and some 60 km southwest of Thessaloniki. Here was discovered in 1977 the tomb of Phillip II of Macedon. It was called Aigai – the original capital of Macedonia. Other Macedonian Tombs are nearby. Also see the Palace of Palatitsia where Phillip was assassinated in 336 BC MT OLYMPOS This mountain – often shrouded in cloud is located some 70 or so km south of Thessaloniki on the road to Athens. It is on the right hand side going south. It rises to 2917 m and is the home of Zeus the most powerful god of Ancient Greece. PYDNA Pydna was a port on the eastern coast of Greece just north of Mt Olympos. After a siege by Athenians in 432 BC the inhabitants had to rebuild their city about 4 km inland. The site is just north of present day Kitros. Here in 167 BC the Roman general L. Aemilius Paulus defeated King Perseus of Macedonia and Rome prevailed as the ruler of the then known world. SEE APPENDIX 1 DETAILS OF THE BATTLE OF PYDNA METHINI A small port on the coast from where one tradition says Paul sailed from here to Athens. (Another traditions says he sailed from Dion) In a grove of trees is a shrine that commemorates Paul’s visit here and his embarkation to sail to Athens. THESSALONIKI Is situated at the head of the Thermatic Gulf (Thermaikos Kolpos). It was originally named Thermae, meaning “Hot Springs”. Then named after the dcaughter of Philip II. In 140 BC it became the capital of the Roman province of Macedonia. It is the capital of Macedonia and the chief seaport of southeast Europe – the second largest city of Greece. Cassander – one of the four successors to Alexander the Great, made it his capital in 31BC in honour of his wife – Alexander’s sister. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 27 Herodotus when writing of the invasion by Xerxes in 480 BC mention Thermae as the main city in this area. Macedonia (with Thessaloniki the chief city) sided with Antonius and Octavian and in the subsequent Battle of Philipi in 42BC built a triumphal arch at the Gate Axios (now Demokratias Square). Under Rome it became a free city ruled by the magistrates (politarchi) or “Rulers of the City” (Acts 17:8). This expression was found on an arch here. Paul visited here on his Second Missionary Journey (acts 17:1-9) and a Christian church was established around 50 AD. Paul’s letter to the Thessalonians was sent from Corinth (Acts 17:15; 18:1,5; I Thess 1:1). Aristarcus – a Jew – came from here and accompanied Paul on his Third Missionary Journey in 56 AD (Acts 19:29; 27:2; Col 4:10.11). Dimetrios and his friend Nestor were martyred here at the beginning of the 4th century. Constantine used Thessaloniki in 324 AD as a base with an army of 120,000 and port for 200 galleys and 2000 merchant ships, in his fight with his brother-in-law Licinius. Constantine triumphed. During the 4th century it was a Roman base in the wars with the Goths – led by Alaric and Theodoric. Emperor Justinian II finally triumphed. In 1881 Kemel Ataturk was born here in a house in Odos Apostolou Pavlou. He became the first President of Turkey. The Via Egnatia was the Roman Road reaching these eastern parts of the empire. The city – the second largest in Greece is also known as Salonica. The Ancient Agora (Market Place) The Agora or Forum in Plati Dikastirion is worth seeing. The Rotunda (Agios Georgios) It is located north of Egnatia Street. It is part of Galerius Arch of Triumph and was originally to be his mausoleum. The Rotunda has walls 6.3 m thick and a brick dome covered with mosaics – some still visible – dates back to the 4th century AD. It is closed now but has been a church and a mosque. Next door is the only minaret in Thessaloniki. The Roman Palace is nearby at Navarinou Square. The Arch of Galerius It was located at the eastern end of the Via Egnatia – today Egnatia Street, and Apsida Galeriou. This Arch of Triumph is also referred to as the “Kamara”. It is connected to the Rotunda. It was erected in the 4th century AD to honour the Emperor Galerius (305 -311AD) with his victory over the Persians in 297 AD. Scenes of Galerius are shown in low reliefs. The Agios Dimitríos (Church of St Dimitrios) Is situated on Agíou Dimetríou Street – northeast of the Ancient Agora. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 28 It is the largest church in Greece, being rebuilt many times – the last between 1928 and 1948. The oldest part of the church is the crypt. Here is the tomb of St Dimitros who was imprisoned, tortured and buried here by Roman soldiers around 305 AD when he was just 20 years of age. Dimitrios refused to recant his belief in Christ and died for his faith becoming the patron saint of Greece. The Roman Baths Are situated north of the church Agios Dimitrios. The White Tower (Lefkos Pirgos) Is by the waterfront and is perhaps Thessaloniki’s most famous landmark. It was once part of the city walls some 8 km long. This tower was rebuilt by the Turks in the 15th century and used as a jail for the janissaries (Sultan’s personal guards). This prison called Kanli Kule, was one of the places of the Turkish massacre of the inhabitants of the city on 17 May 1821. The “Tower of Blood” was whitewashed and became the White Tower. After the guards revolted in 1826 they were sent to the Tower and massacred. Today it is a Museum for Byzantine art and early mosaics etc from Christian times. Statue of Alexander the Great Is situated on the waterfront just past the White Tower. This bronze statue shows Alexander on his horse defeating Darius VI. The Archaeological Museum It is two blocks inland from Alexander’s Statue not far from the White Tower on Manóli Andrónikos & Leaf Stratoú Streets. It is one of the best Archaeological museums opened in 1963 and displays finds in a chronological order – a great place to visit to understand the history of the area. It has fabulous treasures from the Royal Tombs at Vegina (Philip of Macedon – including crowns and armour) and also from the tombs at Dervéni etc. The Folklife and Ethnological Museum Is situated some 20 minutes walk from the Archaeological Museum on Vasilissis Olgas at No 68. It shows many rural activities and shepherd life. An interesting exhibit is a vivid display of the fire-walking ceremony which is performed each year at Lagkádas village some 20 km northeast of the city. Roman Market & Square Is situated on what is known as Law Court Square. The Ramparts The Ramparts and the Acropolis are worth a visit to get a great view over the city. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 29 APPOLONIA Situated just off the highway from Thessaloniki eastwards to Kavala in the region of the lake by the road. Here Paul stayed on his journey from Phillipi to Thessaloniki after leaving Amphipolis (Acts 17:1) An abandoned church here has a large stone with an inscription noting that this was the place whee Paul had preached. AMPHIPOLIS (AMFIPOLIS) Is situated some 100 km east of Thessaloniki on the River Strymon (strimon) some 5 km from its mouth. If coming from Thessaloniki, after crossing the River Strymon, take the left-hand road to N. Zihni and Séres and after 1.5 km turn left to the village of Amfipoli and left again towards the church. The wall of the Hellenistic city was 7 km long and up to 7 m high. The town was a staging post on the Via Egnatia (the Roman Road to the Eastern Empire). Note the great statue of a huge lion dating to the 4th century BC. Paul and Silas passed through here (Acts 17:1). NEAPOLIS (KAVALA) Is situated on the coast some 160 km east of Thessaloniki opposite the island of Thasos. Paul and Silas landed here after sailing from Troas (Acts 16:11,12). The Turks ruled the town from 1380 – 1912 AD. It was the port for the city of Philippi. Here was the birthplace of Mehmet Ali who founded a dynasty in Egypt from just after 1800 AD to the time of King Farouk. Up the hill from the Imarét (an almshouse founded by Mehmet Ali) is a small square where a statue of Mehmet Ali on his horse stands in front of his place of birth. The House of Mehmet Ali (Palati Mehemet Ali) is owned by the Egyptian government. Mehmet Ali was of Albanian descent – the son of a tobacco merchant. A good view of the harbour is had from the promontory. The ruins of the aqueduct spans the lower area between the old and the new towns. It was built by Suleiman the Magnificent in the 16th century. Outside the Church of St Paul there is a great mosaic. It shows two pictures of Paul – one receiving the call to Macedonia at Troas, and the other getting out of a boat here at Kavala. PHILIPPI (CRENIDES – KRINIDES) Historical Philip II of Macedon defeated the Athenians in 358/357BC and rebuilt the city, naming it after himself. The city fell to the Romans in 168 BC (Battle of Pydna), and many Romans stayed and settled here. It was regarded as a colony of Rome. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 30 Brutus and Cassius (the murderers of Julius Caesar) fled Rome for the country east of the Adriatic. In October 42 BC, Mark Antony and Octavian (who became Emperor Augustus) met, fought and conquered Brutus and Cassius just west of Philippi. The city prospered – it was on the Via Egnatia; gold mines of Mt. Pangaion were nearby, and the country was fertile. Paul and Silas came here on their Second Missionary Journey in 50 AD. The first Christian Church in Europe was established here after the baptism of Lydia. Paul and Silas were beaten and imprisoned here (Acts 16:16 – 24), then after their miraculous deliverance, the jailer was baptised. Paul visited here on his Third Missionary Journey on his return to Jerusalem (Acts 20: 2-6). Site of Philippi Philippi is usually approached from the east coming from Kavala. The Neapolis Gate with the remains of the city walls is beside the road entrance. Note the name Philippi in Latin. The site occupies both sides of the road which follows the old Via Egnatia (dates to the 2nd century BC). Park your car on the right hand side just before the site. Entrance is from the top of the car park (level with the kiosk). Upper Side of Phillipi The Theatre is the first site – nestling into the hillside. This was modified by the Romans in the 3rd century AD to enable wild beast fights and gladiatorial combats to be held. Just below the Theatre is the Sanctuary of Sylvanus and the Sanctuary with three niches. Beside these closer to the road, is the ruins of a church (Basilica A). Past the church are the ruins of monuments to heroes. Immediately below this and near the road, is the Prison cell of Paul – probably authentic – but the buildings are long gone. Another church (Basilica C) is next proceeding westwards. The Museum is next with displays of artefacts found locally. Above the Museum and church are the ruins of the Sanctuary of Egyptian gods. The Acropolis with the ruins of its old fortifications is up from here on the top of the hill. These date to Roman and Byzantine times, with three towers being added in the Middle Ages. Below the Road The Via Egnatia is just below the current road and chariot ruts may be seen. At the eastern end beside the road there is the ruins of the Bishop’s Palace with some old storage jars. Behind this is a funeral crypt. Next to the Bishop’s Palace are the Baths, and behind them the ruins of an Octagonal Church. The Roman Forum area is extensive and beyond the Market or Agora – also beside the road. Beside the second column of the south portico are holes for playing marbles. The Forum was built in the time of Aurelius. The Agora is probably the place where Paul and Silas were flogged before being through into prison. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 31 Immediately behind the Forum area are the ruins of another church (Basilica B). This was never completed, as the roof was so large it could not be spanned. Beside it (westwards) is the Palaestra. A little distance southwards are the ruins of another Baths – sometimes called the Assembly or Clubhouse. Note the well-preserved Roman public toilets with marble seats and water ducts. Baptismal Site of Lydia Continue westwards just a little beyond the old city of Philippi/. Here on the left-hand side of the road are imposing gates leading to a church. A notice proclaims this as the baptismal site. The ‘River’ is not large with cultivation on the other side. Today it may be called just an irrigation ditch. THE GREEK ISLANDS SAMOS Is an island in the eastern Aegean only 2 km from the Turkish mainland. It is a pleasant resort island, rising to Mt Kerketéas (1433 m). It is accessible from Athens by ferry (approx 8 – 10 hours) or by plane. Check the prices of both fares. It may often be the best use of time to fly. It is the departure point for ferries to Patmos – usually from the port on the southern side of the Island at Pithagorio. Some ferries may be used direct from Piraeus to Patmos (around 10 hours). Pithagorio (Pythagoreio) The airport for the island is about a kilometre from the town of Pithagorio, and about 11 km from the northern town of Samos The town is named after philosopher/mathematician, Pythagoras from the 6th century BC who lived here – and is remembered bt all lovers of geometry. Some ruins of Roman baths are at the extreme western side of the town. The port here is often the terminus for ferries to Patmos Island. The Heraion Is situated some 8 km west of Pithagorio. It was the sanctuary of the goddess Hera. With temples dating to the 8th century BC, these have been rebuilt several times until the last building in the 3rd century BC. It is interesting to see the size of these former temples – over 30 m long. Only one pillar remains today The worship of Hera was that of a fertility goddess from Neolithic times but associated with the name Hera from the times of the Mycenaean empire. There are remains of a Christian church east of the grat temple that was built to honour the Virgin Mary – the new mother figure. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 32 The Eupalionos Aquaduct It was an aquaduct and underground tunnel – was constructed in the 5th century BC and provided water to Samos. It is about 1 km long and the entrance is about 1 km from the junction with the Samos road and is open for visitors. Samos town (Vathy) Samos town is located at the head of a bay on the north-eastern tip of the island. Vathy is the old town – but both town are joined today. Along the harbourside are extensive restaurants and merchants trading their wares. It is from here that the ferry to Kusadasçi in Turkey departs. . (Make the reservations at least the day prior to sailing). In Samos town, an archaeological museum near the post office is very interesting. It has a huge Kouros 4.8 m high and an over-size female figure similar to the Hera (now in the Louvre). Other items include some from one of the Wonders of the World - the Heraion – the Temple of Hera. PATMOS Is an island in the eastern Aegean – part of the Dodecanese group. It is around 50 km almost south of the island Samos and about 100 km from Ephesus in Turkey. It is accessible by ferry either from Piraeus near Athens or from nearby Samos. The island is 12 km long and 9 km wide with long very narrow isthmuses between these rocky promontories. Patmos is known as the “Holy Island” because of its association with John. Skala is the port – the point of entry. It is on the eastern side of the island on an inlet. John the Apostle was sent here by Domitian in 95AD. Tradition says he spent 16 months on the island and here received the messages of the Book of Revelation before returning to Ephesus. Along the foreshore of Skala harbour at the end (westwards away from the main wharf) is the site where John baptised people while on Patmos – known as St. John’s Baptistery. Just across the road is a metal railing with a sign indicating this was the place. Khora (Chora) is the main town on the hill. Here is the monastery of St. John built in 1088 by Christodoulos. Many frescoes, manuscripts etc are kept here. After arriving the visitor will need some type of transport – bus to the Monastery of the Apocalypse or to Khora and various sections of the island. It is possible to join a tourist bus – or for a small sum hire a motor scooter. The Monastery of the Apocalypse Is situated halfway up the road from the port of Skala to Khora. This is where John is reported to have received his God-given visions. The cave has been enclosed in this monastery. The cave has cracks on the ceiling, said to represent the Father, Son and Holy Spirit. Some see the symbol of a Tree in this. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 33 LESBOS (MITYLENE, MYTLINI) Lesbos is the third largest Greek Island – after Crete and Euboea. It is just 10 km from the mainland of Turkey. It is accessible by air from Athens and Thessaloniki and by ferry from Athens, Kavala and Thessaloniki. The island has two large gulfs with very narrow entrances to the sea. It is a fertile island. Terpandros (7th century BC) was a poet who invented the seven stringed lyre. Lesbos is known best as the home of the Greek poetess Sappho. Paul spent a night here on his trip to Jerusalem after his Third Missionary Journey (Acts 20:14,15). DELOS Is a small rocky island of the Cyclades Group – just 10 km from Lesbos or Mitylene Island. Apollo was said to have been born here and it was the centre of the worship of Apollo – along with that of Artemis his sister. This site – one of the most famous in Greece – is on the western side of the island with extensive ruins. Here in 88BC Mithridates the King of Pontus rebelled against Tome and slaughtered 80,000 Italians of the province of Asia. Delos is famous for the five marble lion statues found west of the now dry sacred lake (where Apollo was born) – these date to the 7th century BC. Originally there were nine. Some places worth visiting are the Terrace of the Lions, The Museum, the House of Hermes, the House of the Masks, and the Terrace of the Foreign gods. If you want a climb – see the Sacred Cave and up to Mount Kynthos (just 113 m – but with a great view). KOS (COOS) It is the second largest of the Dodecanese Group and close to Turkey – just 5 km away. It is accessible by air from Athens and by ferry (21 hrs). One of the most popular sites – and the oldest – is connected with Asklepios the god of healing. Its medical school was famous and Hippocrates its most famous representative. The Castle of the Knights was built in the 15th century AD on the eastern side of the harbour. South of this castle is the famous Hippokrates Plane Tree under which Hippocrates taught his disciples (despite the fact that the massive tree – its girth is around 12 m) is estimated to be about 500 years old. Hippokrates (Hippocrates) known as the ‘Father of Medicine’ practiced here mainly, but also in Athens. The Asklepeion is just 4 km southwest of the town. The Archaeological Museum with finds from the Asklepeion is just south of the Agora. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 34 RHODES It is the largest island in the Dodecanese (1398 sq km) and just 15 km from Turkey. Rhodes is accessible by ferry from many Greek islands and of course from Athens (Piraeus-from 16 to 22 hrs). Ferries also run from as far away as Venice and Dubrovnik etc. Air services operate from Athens and Thessaloniki, Crete, Kos etc. This island is one of Europe’s great tourist attractions. In Greek mythology, Rhodes was the daughter of Poseidon. The town became a very important Greek city. The Colossus of Rhodes stood astride an entrance to one of the harbours and was nearly 50 m high. It was built in honour of the sun god around 300 BC, but in 224 BC it fell into the sea. It was considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Paul visited Rhodes on his way from Troas to Caesarea (Acts 21:1). Lindos is about 68 km away on the southeast side of the island. It is an ancient naval port where Paul landed. The harbour is called Paul’s harbour. Rhodes had schools of philosophy, rhetoric and law. Some of its famous scholars are Cicero, Lucretius, Julius Caesar, Tiberius and Mark Antony. The Greek poet Epimenides lived here 600 BC. There are remains of thee ancient cities –Lindos, Lalysos and Kameiros. The Acropolis of Lindos with its situation overlooking the sae, the Temples of Zeus, Athena and Apollo along with the Stadium, and the Theatre are some of the sites of antiquity. CRETE Crete is the largest of the Greek islands –situated some 100 km south of the Peloponnese. It is considered the most southerly part of Europe. It is accessible by ferry (10 to 14 hrs) from Piraeus and also by plane from Athens etc. It is home to the Minoan civilisation – the oldest in Europe, and the forerunner of the Mycenaean culture. Paul visited here at Fair Havens on the south of the island while sailing to Rome (Acts 27:7,13). And Titus was left here (Titus 1:5). Cretans were also present at Pentecost (Acts 2:1.11). Cnossos (Knossos) is the principal archaeological site – just 5 km southeast of Iraklion in the centre of the northern coast. Here the great Royal Palace of Knossos of the Minoan Culture with King Minos dates from the 16th century BC. The Archaeological Museum is in the eastern part of the old town of Iraklion. This is a must for anyone interest in archaeology who visits Crete. Just 10 km east of Réthymnon on the northern coast is the largest olive plantation in the Mediterranean – over 1.5 million trees. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 35 APPENDIX 1 THE BATTLE OF PYDNA This battle took place on 22 June 168 BC. It was between the Romans under L. Aemilius Paulus and the King Perseus of Macedonia. It was the decisive battle of the third Macedonian war from 171 – 168 BC and world rulership passed decisively from the Greeks to the Romans. It was fought on a plain near Pydna just north of present day Kitros in Greece. Pydna had been a Greek port on the Aegean Sea just north of the sacred Mt Olympus. Back in 432 BC the Athenians had besieged the city, and the inhabitants had to rebuild about 4 km from the sea. Then it was controlled by the Macedonians until around 360 BC when Timotheus the Athenian commander captured the city. In 357 BC Philip II captured the city and it became Macedonian from then. In the great battle the two armies were camped fairly close together facing each other across a small river. All was quiet between the armies until about 3.00 pm a mule from the Macedonian camp broke loose and escaped across the river. Two soldiers from Thrace with the Macedonians were dragging the beast to their side of the river when some Romans killed one and captured the mule and took it back to their side. Some Thracian soldiers – of a detachment of 800 men – crossed the river to avenge the slaying of their compatriot. The Paelignians fighting with the Romans suffered severe casualties, and King Perseus ordered his army to prepare for battle. The Romans were already prepared. King Perseus now 60 years of age led his troops into battle. The Romans attacked and broke the normally invincible phalanx of the Macedonians. The Macedonians tried to use some elephants but they proved a hindrance. The Macedonians with long cumbersome pikes were disadvantaged against the Romans with their much shorter swords. The Macedonians found themselves fighting from their flanks, the front and some towards their rear. Slaughter was everywhere. Only those Macedonians who threw away their pikes and ran were able to get away. King Perseus and his cavalry were the first to flee. As many as 20,000 Macedonians perished against about 100 of the Roman soldiers. Some Macedonians fled to the shore and tried to escape by boats but were slain in the water, while those who retreated to the shore were then trampled by elephants. If the engagement had started earlier than 3.00 pm all of the Macedonians were have been wiped out. The town of Pydna was looted and the glory days of Greece were now over. Macedonia became a province of the Roman empire. Overseas Travel GREECE Page 36
