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Classification of Beans and Peas
Phaseolus vulgaris is a herbaceous (a plant that has leaves and stems that die down at
the end of the growing season) annual plant, grown worldwide for its edible beans, used both as the
dry seed and as unripe fruit.. Botanically, with other species of the bean genus (Phaseolus), it is
classified into legumes family (Fabaceae), so they acquire their nitrogen through an association with a
species of nitrogen-fixing bacteria.
Includes pinto, navy, kidney, black, cranberry, pink, small white, yellow
All of the wild members of the species have a climbing habit,[3] but there are many cultivated varieties,
classified as bush bean, or pole bean depending on style of growth.
The pea is most commonly the small spherical seed or the seed-pod of the pod fruit Pisum
sativum.[1] Each pod contains several peas. Peapods are botanically a fruit,[2] since they contain seeds
developed from the ovary of a (pea) flower. However, peas are considered to be a vegetable in cooking.
The name is also used to describe other edible seeds from the Fabaceae such as the pigeon
pea (Cajanus cajan), the cowpea (Vigna unguiculata), and the seeds from several species of Lathyrus.
Shelling beans
Shell, shelled, or shelling beans are beans removed from their pods before being cooked or dried.
Common beans can be used as shell beans, but the term also refers to other species of beans whose
pods are not typically eaten, such as lima beans, soybeans, peas, and fava beans. Fresh shell beans are
nutritionally similar to dry beans, but are prepared more like a vegetable, often being steamed, fried, or
made into soups.
1. Kidney Beans
Kidney beans, also known as red beans, are named for their
visual resemblance in shape and color to kidneys. Kidney beans
are commonly used in chili soup chili con carne and are an integral part of the cuisine in northern
regions of India. They are also used in New Orleans and much of southern Louisiana for the classic
Monday Creole dish of red beans and rice.
Family
Fabaceae – Pea family
Genus
Phaseolus L. – bean
Species
Phaseolus vulgaris L. – kidney bean
Kidney Bean
Red kidney beans are the large beans used in salads and chili.
Common, or Kidney, Beans
Common, or kidney, beans include most of the important commercial varieties grown in the United
States and Canada. These crops must be planted annually. There are two important types of common
beans—snap beans and dry, or field, beans. Snap beans are those varieties of common beans grown
for their young pods. Dry beans are those varieties grown for their mature seeds.
Kidney beans are large, dry beans known for their kidney shape and usually a dark, red appearance
though they do come in other colors. They are a staple of southern cuisine and make a great
supplement to meat for vegetarians due to their high levels of protein, calcium and magnesium. Let’s
look at how to grow kidney beans in your home garden.
VARIETIES
Kidney beans come in both bush and vine varieties. Bush beans take up a little more space and usually
yield all of their beans at once. Vine beans need a stake or trellis for support and yield a continual
harvest for 1-2 months.
WHEN TO GROW
Kidney beans should be planted in the spring, after the last frost date for your area. They need 90-150
days to reach maturity. Soil temperatures should be 70° F – 80° F for successful germination. Avoid
frost and temperatures below 60° F whenever possible.
WHERE TO GROW
Kidney beans are best suited for hardiness zones 4 and warmer. However, they can grow anywhere
with enough frost-free days. Temperatures should be 65° F – 80° F for the majority of the growing
season for good results.
Plant kidney beans in full sun. They can also be grown in 12 inch pots. Bush varieties are better suited
for containers. You’ll need 6-10 plants for just one person, so container growing kidney beans may be
impractical.
BEST SOIL FOR GROWING KIDNEY BEANS
Kidney beans grow best in loose, well draining soil. If you have heavy soil, amend it with lots of mature
compost. Adding a couple of inches of compost will be good, even in sandy soil. Till it in when you
prepare your garden bed a couple weeks prior to planting. Test the pH of the soil to be sure it is 6.0 –
7.0.
PLANTING
Kidney beans don’t transplant particularly well so direct sow them 1-2 inches deep. Keep the soil moist
and seeds should germinate in 10-14 days. Vining varieties should be spaced 4 inches apart. Bush
varieties need 8 inches between plants. Best to plant seeds every 1-2 inches and then thin them out
once the seedlings have reached about 3 inches high.
WATERING & CARE
Kidney beans should be watered evenly but not too often. Try to let the top layer of soil just dry out
before watering again. No need to keep the soil constantly moist but keep an eye on them during dry
spells.
No need to feed kidney beans if they are planted in rich soil. If you choose to fertilize, use an organic
fertilizer that is not based in nitrogen.
Kidney beans have shallow roots so be very careful when weeding. Best to use a thick layer of organic
mulch, like straw or leaves to keep the weeds down. Mulch also helps maintain soil moisture and
warmth, which will be very important in cool or dry climates.
DISEASE & PEST CONTROL
Kidney beans are susceptible to fungal diseases. Avoid overhead watering and water in the morning to
keep the foliage dry.
The large leaves of kidney bean plants are targets for lots of different pests including slugs,
leafhoppers, beetles and aphids. Organic sprays and hand picking are the best way to deal with bugs
like these.
Use fencing and netting if squirrels, deer or rabbits become a nuisance.
Keep a tidy, healthy garden. Practice strict crop rotation: do not plant kidney beans where other
legumes have grown the past 3 seasons.
HARVESTING
Harvest kidney beans after they have completely matured and dried out. In humid environments, hang
them in a dry, well-ventilated space to let them dry off the vine.
Shell dry beans and store them for up to 1 year in a cool, dark space.
TIPS & ADVICE
Raw kidney beans, as well as their sprouts, are poisonous.
Mix an inoculant powder to the soil when preparing for planting. Inoculant helps legumes like kidney
beans draw nitrogen from the soil. This will get them off to a strong start.
Keep row covers on hand to protect young seedlings from late frosts and unexpected cold spells.
Do not plant kidney beans too early. Soil that is too cold or too wet will cause them to rot. Use plastic
mulch to warm the soil prior to sowing seeds.
In cooler climates, choose quicker maturing varieties.
When in doubt, a dry kidney bean is ready when you gently bite into it and leave no tooth mark.
2. Navy Beans
Pea beans include the navy bean and similar varieties
that are used in pork and beans, Boston baked beans,
and bean soup.
Navy Beans … White beans[edit source | editbeta]
Navy beans or haricot beans are particularly popular in the United Kingdom and the United States.
Other white beans include cannellini, a popular variety in central and southern Italy, which is related to
the kidney bean. White beans are the most abundant plant-based source of phosphatidylserine (PS)
known.[14]
Hardiness
Zones 4 and warmer
Use quick-maturing cultivars in colder areas
Climate Zones Maps
Light
Full sun
Soil
Well-drained; pH 6.0 to 7.0
Water
Regular water, keep soil evenly moist
Spacing
3 inches (7.5) apart
Harvest
When pods are completely dry and beans can hardly be dented when bitten
Planting Site: Full sun with good air circulation.
Planting & Growing Guidelines: Sow seed after any danger of frost has passed, and when the soil
has warmed to at least 60° F (16° C). Plant 1 inch (2.5 cm) deep and 3 inches (7.5) apart in single or
double rows. Cultivate shallowly until the plants are large enough to shade out weeds. Mulch between
rows to help prevent pods from rotting if they touch they ground. Moisture is critical when the plants
are in flower. When pods begin to mature, withhold water to help with drying.
Use Soil Temperature For Remarkable Vegetable Planting Results
The Wonders of Mulch - A Complete How To Use Mulch Guide
Mulching - How Much And How Deep?
Fertilizing: All legumes, such as beans and peas, are self-fertilizing. In fact, they leave more nitrogen
in the soil than they use up. So they really don't need to be fertilized, but what you can do is give them
a boost with some "innoculant" (available at any garden center) which helps the plants fix nitrogen in
their roots.
Pest and Disease Prevention: Provide good air circulation to help prevent blights, mosaic disease,
and anthracnose. To avoid spreading rust, do not disturb plants when foliage is wet. Till under all plant
debris in the fall to destroy any disease organisms, and do not plant beans or any other legumes in the
same place more than once every 3 years.
Plant Diseases & Control - Organic control methods
Proper Crop Rotation
Common Problems: Damp weather that comes along late in the season, when pods are maturing, can
encourage beans to sprout in the pod. Pull plants when most of the foliage has died and hang by the
roots in well-ventilated place to finish completely drying.
Days to Maturity: 90 to 150 frost-free days, depending upon the variety. The most popular cultivars
are quick-maturing beans that can be harvested in 100 days or less.
Harvest and Storage: Harvest when the bean pods are completely dry and beans can barely be
dented when bitten. Shell pods individually or thresh them by putting them in an old pillowcase and
walking on it until the pods are completely crushed. Remove the chaff by pouring the beans back and
forth between two bowls in a windy, or breezy, area, or in front of a fan. Store in air-tight jars or bags
in a dry, cool place.
Special Tips: To avoid any potential problems with weevils, freeze the well-dried beans for several
hours before storing.
3. Pinto Beans
Pinto beans are named for their mottled skin, and are common across
America.
Pinto beans have a beige background strewn with reddish brown splashes of color. . Pinto beans are
pinkish beans often mixed with rice and eaten in stews.
They are drought tolerant and grow well in drier, more arid climates. Here’s how to grow pinto beans
at home.
VARIETIES
Pinto beans come in both determinate (bush) and indeterminate (pole) varieties. Bush pinto beans
require little care but need more space between plants. They produce all their beans at once but won’t
produce as big of a yield as pinto beans grown on the vine (pole). Pole pinto beans require a stake or
trellis for support but can be planted close together and thereby save space.
WHEN TO GROW
Pinto beans should be planted after the danger of frost has passed. They will require 80-140 frost free
days to mature and need soil temperatures of about 70° F for successful germination. Black plastic
mulch should be used to warm the soil in order to lengthen the growing season, as pinto beans do not
transplant well. Avoid planting pinto beans too early because they will not tolerate cool, damp roots.
WHERE TO GROW
Pinto beans grow well in regions with long, warm summers. They should be planted in a space where
they will receive full exposure to the sun (at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day) and where other
legumes have not grown for at least 3 years.
Companion plant pinto beans with cucumbers, celery and strawberries but avoid onion, fennel and
garlic.
BEST SOIL FOR GROWING BLACK BEANS
Use a well draining, loose and fertile soil. Test the pH to be sure it is about 6.0-7.0. Add plenty of
mature compost before planting and you shouldn’t have to feed the beans much, if at all, during the
growing season.
PLANTING
Soak pinto beans overnight prior to planting. Sow each bean with the eye facing down, 1-2 inches
deep. Allow 8-14 days for germination when soil temperatures are 70° F – 80° F. Thin seedlings to 6
inches apart once they become established. Allow a little extra space between bush plants for good
aeration.
WATERING & CARE
Pinto beans should be watered somewhat sparingly. Wait until just before the soil dries out before
watering. Pinto beans can handle a bit of drought but not soggy roots. Water at the base of the plants
and try to keep the foliage dry. Wet leaves promote mildew and other fungal diseases.
Hand weed carefully. Pinto beans have a shallow root system. Use organic mulch to keep down weeds
and maintain moisture in the soil.
SUPPORT
Pole varieties of pinto beans will need a trellis, stake or similar means of support as they grow. Put the
support structure in place before planting. The vines will need to be trained when they first begin to
grow but should take off naturally after a few weeks. Use soft twine or cloth to tie them to the pole
without damaging the vine.
FERTILIZING
Pinto beans will benefit from a good feeding from a compost tea about half way through the growing
season. Legumes like pintos fix their own nitrogen, so avoid fertilizers that contain it. However, pale
leaves may indicate nitrogen deficiency. In this case, use a fish emulsion or similar nitrogen based
fertilizer to get them back on track.
PEST CONTROL
Keep a clean, tidy garden. If your plants are healthy and well looked after they will be less susceptible
to pests. However, pinto beans are often targeted by aphids, leafhoppers, mites and beetles. Use
organic sprays, handpick and blast them off with water.
HARVESTING
Pinto beans can be harvested while still green and immature but are best after they dry out on the
vine. This usually occurs after 90-150 days, depending on the variety. Bush beans mature all at once
but pole beans need to be harvested regularly to encourage continual production.
TIPS & ADVICE
To increase the plant’s ability to fix nitrogen, add pinto bean inoculant to the soil upon planting. While
not completely necessary, this will allow your plants to get off to a flourishing start.
4. Black Turtle Bean
The Black turtle bean has small, shiny black seeds. It is especially popular
in Latin American cuisine.
Black beans are a staple of Latin cuisine and offer many great benefits, including good antioxidant
activity. They can be grown easily anywhere with a long enough, warm enough growing season. Here’s
how to grow black beans in your home garden.
VARIETIES
Black beans come in both bush (determinate) and pole (indeterminate) varieties. Bush types tend to
need a little more space between plants and are harvested all at once. Pole beans will need a stake or
trellis for support but generally produce a greater yield. They can be planted in tighter spaces, so long
as their vines have space to stretch out.
WHEN TO GROW
Black beans need between 80-140 days to mature in warm weather. Do not plant until after the
danger of frost has passed. They will not tolerate cool, damp roots so do not try to plant them too
early. Soil temperatures should be about 70° F for successful germination. They do not transplant
particularly well, so if you need to get a head start on the growing season, use black plastic mulch to
warm the soil.
WHERE TO GROW
Black beans should be grown where the weather is warm for at least 3 months. Plant somewhere they
will receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight per day but the more the better. Do not plant in a garden
bed where other legumes have grown for the past 3 years.
Black beans companion plant well with cucumbers, celery and strawberries. Do not plant with onion,
fennel or garlic.
Black beans can be grown in 12” containers as well, but you will need several plants per household
member to produce a good yield, so container gardening may not be worthwhile.
SOIL
Black beans do well in loose, fertile soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0. Add plenty of mature compost prior to
planting and the beans shouldn’t need much if any feeding for the remainder of the growing season.
PLANTING
Plan to grow about 8 plants per person for a plentiful harvest. Soak beans overnight prior to planting.
Sow black beans with the eyes facing down, 1-2 inches deep. Germination should take 8-14 days with
soil temperatures 70° F-80° F. Thin to about 6 inches between plants after the seedlings have emerged.
Bush varieties will need a little extra space to allow for good aeration.
WATERING & CARE
Water as needed to keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. Try to water just before the soil
dries out but black beans handle drought better than soggy roots. Avoid getting the leaves and foliage
wet as this can promote mildew and other fungal diseases to which beans tend to be susceptible.
Cultivate carefully. Hand weed to avoid damaging the shallow roots of the black bean plant. Better to
use mulch to keep down weeds and maintain good soil moisture.
Black bean vines grow to about 3 feet high and will need a trellis, stake or other means of support to
keep them off of the ground. Put your trellis in place before planting. Train the vines to use the support
structure as they begin to lengthen. Use soft twine or cloth to tie them gently to the pole or line.
FERTILIZING
Beans do not need much fertilizer to thrive. However, pole beans will benefit from a little compost tea
half way through the growing season. In general, avoid nitrogen-based fertilizer. However, pale leaves
may indicate a nitrogen deficiency. In this case, a light feeding of fish emulsion or a similar fertilizer can
help.
HARVESTING
Black beans are usually harvested after 90-100 days when they are firm and dried out. Some varieties
can take up to 140 days. Bush varieties will mature all at once but pole beans need to be harvested
regularly to encourage production until the growing season is over. If you’re unsure if they are ready,
bite into one – mature beans shouldn’t leave a teeth mark.
Black beans can also be harvested when the pods are still green and beginning to swell, but black
beans are best suited for dry harvest.
PEST CONTROL
Black beans can be susceptible to aphids, leafhoppers, mites and beetles. Handpick and blast them off
with water. Organic sprays may be used as well. Be sure to maintain a clean, tidy garden. If your
plants are healthy and well looked after they will be less prone to pest invasions.
TIPS & ADVICE
Add a black bean inoculant to the soil upon planting. This is not necessary, but will help the beans fix
nitrogen and get off to a flourishing start.
In case of wet weather around harvest time, let the pods dry out indoors before picking them from the
vine.
5. Cranberry Beans
Cranberry beans originated in Colombia as
the cargamanto. Borlotti or Roman beans are a variety of
cranberry bean bred in Italy to have a thicker skin. They are
much used in Mediterranean cuisine.
The cranberry bean, also known as the Borlotti bean in Italy, is currently fairly difficult to find unless
your community has a large Italian population or fosters farmer’s type markets. Cranberry beans are
usually found in the mass market as packaged and dried unless one encounters them in the
independent local farmer’s market wherein they can be seen fresh with their beautiful coloration.
More widely known as shell beans, the cranberry bean is unrelated to a cranberry plant and, in fact,
most closely resembles the pinto bean, although the flavor is dissimilar. The exterior of the cranberry
bean is a mottled cranberry hue, hence its common name, and the interior beans are a creamy color.
Just as with all beans, the cranberry bean is low in calories and high in fiber, a fabulous source of
vegetable protein. Unfortunately, when the bean is cooked, it loses its lovely color and becomes a drab
brown. Fresh cranberry beans are reported to taste akin to a chestnut.
How to Grow Cranberry Beans
Cranberry beans are an easy to grow plant. Neither pole nor bush beans, the cranberry bean grows on
a stalk, which can attain a height of up to six feet. Due to this great height, the cranberry bean will
need to be staked and grows well planted in a large container, such as a half barrel or even a onegallon pot. Growing cranberry beans can also be planted against a traditional trellis support or a tepeeshaped support can be created, against which several plants can be grown.
However you decide to grow and stake your cranberry beans, remember they prefer a warmer climate
than most bean varieties and definitely dislike frost. Soil temperature for cranberry beans should be at
least 60 degrees Fahrenheit or more.
Select an area with well drained soil and a pH of 5.8 to 7.0 or amend the soil medium to reflect their
requirements.
Growing Cranberry Beans from Seeds
Cranberry bean plants can be started from either dried seeds or from fresh picked pods. To start from
dried seeds, soak some quality potting soil with water until the consistency of mud, poke in a few dried
cranberry bean seeds and allow to dry slightly. Transfer the still moist soil and seed combination into
smaller pots, cover with plastic wrap and place in a warm area to germinate.
To start cranberry bean plants from fresh picked pods, squeeze the bean pod gently to split and remove
seeds. Lay the seeds out on paper towels or the like and air dry for about 48 hours. Fill planting pots
with seed starting medium and place them in a pan of water with the liquid reaching to the halfway
mark on the pot sides. Leave in the water bath for about an hour or until the soil surface is wet.
Germination of your cranberry bean seeds will occur in about a week in warm conditions.
6. Small White … Pea beans
A type of Phaseolus vulgaris called pea bean has been
recorded in Britain since the 16th century.[8] In the US the
name "pea bean" is also used to describe small white
beans, and the same name is used for Vigna
unguiculata subsp. sesquipedalis, also called yard-long bean
and cowpea.[9] The seeds of the British pea bean are bicolored, being red-brown and white. The plants
are a typical climbing bean. The beans are either eaten in the pod like French beans or they may be
harvested when mature and eaten as other dried beans.[10]
7. Pink beans
Pink beans are small, pale pink, oval-shaped beans, and are also
known by the Spanish name habichuelas rosadas.
8. Yellow beans
Sinaloa Azufrado, Sulphur, Mayocoba, and
Peruano (also called canary) are types of
yellow beans.
Peruano beans (also called canary or
mayacoba beans) are small, oval, yellow
beans about 1/2 inch (1 cm) long with a thin
skin. Peruano beans have a creamy texture
when cooked. Despite the name (peruvian
beans in Spanish), they are native to Mexico. However, yellow beans are uncommon in the United
States due to a controversial patent issued in 1999 to John Proctor, who selected and named a strain
of yellow bean from seeds he brought back from Mexico. U.S. Patent No. 5,894,079 (the Enola or
yellow bean patent) granted POD-NERS, LLC., exclusive right to import and sell yellow beans in the
United States from 1999 through 2008, when the patent was rejected after reexamination.[15][16]
9. Lima Beans
are large, flat beans, containing higher proportions of
fat than other beans. Limas are grown only for their
seeds, which may be eaten green or after they have
been dried. There are two types of lima bean plants—
bush and pole. Baby limas are special types of bush
limas that produce relatively small seeds. Pole limas
grow as vines that must be supported by poles. Popular
varieties include King of the Garden and Prizetaker.
Botanical name: Phaseolus lunatus L.
Family: Fabaceae
VARIETIES
Lima beans come in both bush and pole (vine) varieties (often labeled determinate or indeterminate).
Bush varieties tend to mature faster and yield all of their beans at once. Vine varieties take a bit longer
but produce a better yield over time. Some pole lima beans can grow 10 feet tall or more.
Grow 4-8 lima bean plants per household member.
WHEN TO GROW
Lima beans need 60-90 days to mature. In shorter growing seasons, you may want to get a head start
by planting them indoors 3-4 weeks before the last frost. Otherwise, wait until the danger of frost has
passed before planting lima beans. Soil temperatures needs to be at least 65° F for proper germination.
If necessary, use plastic mulch to warm your soil and extend the growing season.
WHERE TO GROW
Lima beans do best in climates where air temperatures range from 60° F – 70° F throughout the
growing season. They will not set pods if temperatures exceed 80° F or get too cold for too long. They
should be grown somewhere they will receive lots of direct sunlight. Avoid high nitrogen soil or garden
patches where other legumes have recently grown.
Companion plant lima beans with corn, cucumbers, celery, potatoes and summer savory. Avoid
planting them with onions, beets and kohlrabi.
Lima beans can grow well in containers, but bush varieties tend to be best and they’ll need a little extra
fertilizer.
SOIL
Lima beans do best in loose, fertile soil. Enrich your soil with lots of mature compost before planting.
Do not add any nitrogen or use fertilizer that contains nitrogen. Test your soil pH to be sure it lands
between 6.0 and 6.8.
PLANTING
Sow seeds 1-2 inches deep in very loose soil. Do not pack the soil down as lima beans have trouble
breaking through heavy, thick soil. Germination takes 4-7 days. Seedlings can be sensitive to
transplanting, so use biodegradable pots if starting your plants indoors. Space bush varieties 4-6
inches apart and vine varieties 8-10 inches apart. Rows can be spaced about 2-3 feet apart.
WATERING & CARE
Water lima beans regularly. Keep the soil moist but do not overwater; it should never be soggy. Water
at the base of the plants as overhead watering can foster mildew and disease in the foliage. As pods
develop, water diligently to avoid cracking beans.
Use mulch to keep the soil moist and to keep weeds down.
SUPPORT
Indeterminate varieties of lima beans will need a pole or trellis on which to grow their vines. Place your
support structure before you plant or transplant to avoid damaging the roots later on.
FERTILIZING
Lima beans do not need much feeding if planted in fertile soil but they may benefit from a side dressing
of compost tea at mid season. Avoid using fresh manure or fertilizers that contain nitrogen.
HARVEST
Most bush varieties mature in 60-80 days. Pole varieties take 85-90 days. The pods should be plump
and firm. Harvest regularly to encourage continual production. Do not leave lima beans on the vine too
long or they may become mealy.
TIPS & ADVICE
Do not eat raw lima beans, which can be toxic.
Lima beans are susceptible to disease. Practice strict crop rotation and companion planting. Plant
disease resistant-varieties and remove any diseased plants immediately (but do not compost these).
Handling wet plants can also spread fungal spores.
Watch out for aphids, beetles, leafhoppers and mites, which can all wreck havoc on your
lima bean crop. Keep your garden clean and clear of debris. Handpick pests as you see them
and use organic sprays to keep them at bay.
10. Lentils
The lentil (Fabaceae, Faboideae, Vicieae,Lens
culinaris) (International Feed Number, 5-02-506)
is an edible pulse. It is a bushy annual plant of
the legume family, grown for its lensshaped seeds. It is about 40 centimetres (16 in) tall
and the seeds grow in pods, usually with two
seeds in each.
Lentils are relatively tolerant to drought, and are grown throughout the world.
Lentils are a highly nutritious legume closely related to peas and all types of beans. They
require specific growing conditions, but are otherwise relatively easy to care for. Here’s how to
grow lentils of your very own.
LENTIL VARIETIES
Lentils are generally either large or small and there are lots of varieties within each of these
types. Consult with local growers to find out if there is a specific variety more suitable for your
area. Lentils can take several months to mature, so check maturation dates on the seed packet
to be sure you have enough time in your growing season.
Shoot for about 4-8 lentil plants per household member.
WHEN TO GROW
Lentils can be direct sown indoors 2 weeks prior to the last average frost date for your area.
They can also be started indoors and transferred outside once the seedlings have been
established. Ideal germination temperature is 68° F. Lentils will need 80 – 110 days to mature.
WHERE TO GROW
Lentils like cool temperatures but not frost. They do well in temperate climates with low
humidity. They can grow in the north during the summer and the south over the winter.
Choose a spot in the garden that receives full sun. Do not plant lentils where other legumes
have recently grown. Lentils grow well with cucumbers, potatoes and summer savory. Do not
plant them with onions or garlic.
SOIL
Lentils do well in loose, well drained soil with a neutral to slightly alkaline pH (6.0 – 8.0). Add
mature compost before planting. Lentils need fertile soil in order to thrive.
PLANTING
Lentils can be grown from seed or transplants. They need about 10 days at 68° F for proper
germination. Sow seeds about ½ – 1 inch deep, 1 inch apart. Thin to the healthiest seedlings
and space them about 5 inches apart. Rows can be spaced 18 – 24 inches apart.
Use row covers to protect seedlings from late frosts.
WATERING & CARE
Lentils can handle drought better than other beans but they prefer consistently moist soil.
Once the pods begin to dry, stop watering.
SUPPORT
Lentils will need a low trellis to support their vines. If you don’t use a trellis, they will need a
little extra space between plants. However, using a trellis helps deter pests, lowers the risk of
plant disease and can make for a much stronger yield.
FERTILIZING
Lentils do not need much fertilizer if planted in rich, fertile soil. Side dress them with a little
compost tea when they reach 5 inches tall and again as they begin to flower.
HARVESTING
Lentils can be harvested for use as dry beans or when still green, like snap peas. To use them as
dry beans, wait the entire maturation period (about 110 days) and harvest the pods once they
are hardened. Keep them unshelled until ready for use. If you intend to use them like peas, they
should be ready after 70 – 80 days.
TIPS & ADVICE
Watch out for aphids, which can be a problem to lentils. Pinch them off or blast them off with
water as you see them.
Proper crop rotation and companion planting is necessary to prevent disease and pests with
lentils.
Lentils need good air circulation and can develop mildew if planted too close together.
Lentils can tolerate a light frost but it is not encouraged.
Lentils will grow in containers but require several plants for a worthwhile yield.
11Garbanzo Beans
Fabaceae, Cicer, arietinum
The chickpea (Cicer arietinum) is a legume of the
family Fabaceae, subfamilyFaboideae. Its seeds are high
in protein. It is one of the earliest cultivated legumes: 7,500year-old remains have been found in the Middle East.[1]
The plant grows to between 20–50 cm (8–20 inches) high and has small feathery leaves on either side
of the stem. Chickpeas are a type of pulse, with one seedpod containing two or three peas. It has white
flowers with blue, violet or pink veins. Chickpeas need a subtropical or tropical climate with more than
400 millimetres (16 in) of annual rain.[citation needed] They can be grown in a temperate climate but yields
will be much lower.[citation needed]
Overview
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Binomial Name: Cicer arietinum
Bean Varieties: Black, Black-eyed Pea, Black Turtle, Broad, Butter,Chickpea, Cowpea, Dark Red
Kidney, Fava, Garbanzo, Great Northern White, Green, Kidney, Lima, Navy, Pinto, Red, Red
Kidney, String,
White
Garbanzo beans are native to the Middle East and Mediterranean regions, and are popular in the
cuisines of these and surrounding regions, including north Africa and India. They require a long growing
season, approximately 100 days as a dry bean, and are a cool season annual that should be started
early in the growing season prior to the last frost of the spring. If possible start indoors 4-6 weeks
before final expected frost in biodegradable pots that can be placed directly into the ground once
temperatures exceed 60 degrees F. Transplant outdoors just after frost, and for best results 'harden'
plants prior to transplanting by gradually acclimating to outdoor conditions. Space plants about 6"
apart, with 18-24" between rows. Garbanzo plants do not typically exceed a height of 20" and will
produce larger yields in subtropical regions.
Seeds
8 - 10 days, 70F to 80F
5 years
well-drained, slightly acidic
Full Sun
1" to 2" apart
3" to 4" apart
80 to 100
Growing Guide
GROWING NOTES
Beans generally do not respond well to transplanting, and are usually direct sown around or just
after the last spring frost. The most important point about growing beans is not to plant them too
early. They will rot in cool, damp soil. Even so, many beans require a long growing season of 80
days or more. To get an earlier start, you can put down black plastic, to warm the soil.
Most beans should be sown with the eye of the been facing downward, 1-2" deep, approximately
4-6" apart, with 24" or more between rows. The ideal site will be sunny, well-drained, moderately
fertile, and slightly acidic (pH 6.0-7.0). Additionally, bean plants should be well-ventilated to
promote proper development and deter mildew or mold that can trouble plants. Beans should not
be grown in the same spot more than once every four years, and can be mutually beneficial with
corn, strawberries and cucumber. Avoid planting beans near onion or fennel.
Plant bush beans in either rows or blocks, with 4-6 inches between each seed. Plant the seeds 1-2
inches deep and be sure to water the soil immediately and regularly, until it sprouts. Pole beans
will need some type of support to grow on. Be sure the trellis, teepee, fence or whatever is in place
before you seed. Plant seeds at a rate of about 3-6 seeds per teepee or every 6 inches apart.
MAINTAINING
When watering, try to avoid getting the leaves wet as this can promote fungus or other damaging
conditions that beans can be susceptible to. Most types of beans are somewhat drought resistant,
but check the surface of the soil frequently and water when the top layer has become dried out.
Once established, beans generally will not require fertilizing and will generate their own nitrogen.
However, if the leaves of young plants are pale this is an indication of nitrogen deficiency and
starts can be fertilized with with fish emulsion or other natural nitrogen rich fertilizer.
Bush beans begin producing before pole beans and often come in all at
once. Staggered planting, every 2 weeks, will keep your bush beans going longer. Pole beans need
time to grow their vines, before they start setting beans. The pole bean crop will continue to
produce for a month or two.
Pole beans may need some initial help in climbing. Keep the bean plants well watered. Mulch helps
keep their shallow roots moist. Long producing pole beans will benefit from a feeding or a side dressing
of compost or manure about half way through their growing season.
12 Green Split Pea and Yellow Split Pea
Pisum sativum, the common pea (also known as the garden or field
pea), is an herbaceous annual in
the Fabaceae (formerly Leguminosae) family, originally from the
Mediterraean basin and Near East, but now widely grown for its
seedpod or legume (a simple dry fruit containing several seeds and
splitting along seams on two sides). The term “pea” can refer to small
spherical seed or to the pod. The name “peas” is also used to describe
other edible seeds from the Fabaceae, such as chickpeas (Cicer
arietinum), pigeon peas (Cajanus cajan), cowpeas (Vigna
unguiculata), and sweet peas (several Lathyrus spp.), which are
grown as ornamentals.
P. sativum cultivars are either low growing (less than 0.75 meters) or
vining. The vining cultivars grow thin tendrils from leaves that coil
around any available support and can climb to be 1–2 m high. P.
sativum is a cool-season crop grown in many parts of the world;
planting can take place from winter to early summer depending on location. The distinctive flower has
5 fused sepals, 5 petals, 10 stamens (9 fused in a staminal tube and 1 stamen is free), and one carpel,
which develops into a pod with multiple peas. The average pea weighs 0.1 to 0.4 grams.
Once planted, peas need little attention other than watering and harvesting. Pests and diseases are
rarely a problem, particularly if disease-resistant varieties are planted. Just keep an eye out for aphids
on the pea plants and get rid of them with a sharp spray of water from the garden hose.
Peas thrive in cool weather and young plants will tolerate light frosts. Once germinated, peas adapt
well to the cold, damp climate of early spring. Peas must be planted as early as possible in the spring to
get a full harvest before hot summer temperatures arrive and put an end to production. In temperate
zones, the saying "Plant peas by St. Patrick's Day" holds true. Otherwise, plant peas about a month
prior to your frost-free date.
For a fall crop, you'll have to nurse the seedlings through late-summer heat with shade and diligent
watering until cool weather arrives.
The 'days to maturity' listed on the seed packets are calculated from the date of direct seeding, but soil
temperature determines how long it takes for pea seeds to germinate.
For example, if the soil is 40 degrees F., pea seeds may take more than a month to sprout, while at 60
degrees F. or above, they take about a week. So, the days to maturity can be misleading. Use the
information only as a guide for determining early, mid-season, and late varieties.
Peas prefer a fertile, sandy loam that drains well, but will tolerate most soils except heavy,
impermeable clay. Work in plenty of compost to keep the soil friable. A pH level of 6.0-7.5 is preferred.
Where soil is very acidic, apply dolomite or agricultural lime. If you've never grown peas before, why
not try a bed of the early bush types, like 'Spring' or 'Burpeeana Early' garden peas or 'Sugar Bon' snap
peas? If you have limited garden space, plant 'Alderman' heirloom garden peas or 'Super Sugar' snap
peas on a trellis or fence. This way you can get maximum yields using only a few square feet of garden
space.