Download BJCP_Notes_-_January_2010_-_Sour_Ales

Sour Ales (BJCP Category 17)
This month’s session covers the world’s oldest beer styles, sour beers. If you love the lactic tang of lactobacillus or the vinegary hints of
acetobacter in your beer, this is the session for you!
Part 1: Brewing Sour Beer
Sour beers are the oldest beer style in the world, in that they are
brewed using open fermentation using whatever wild microflora are
native to the brewhouse. They derive their unique, complex flavors and
aromas from the fermentation byproducts of successive yeast and
bacterial infections, although acid blends can simulate sourness.
Since high alcohol levels can interfere with the bacterial action,
sour beers are low to moderate strength. Due to the nature of the
fermentation and aging process, most sour beers have little
carbonation, Berliner weisse and some Gueuzes being the exceptions.
Due to the fermentation process and the high proportion of raw wheat
used to brew the beer, most sour beers are cloudy.
The Brewing Process: Most sour beers start off as neutralflavored, low-to-moderate gravity wheat or brown ales, although
lambics are brewed with 40% or more raw wheat, since this gives more
unfermentable starches which wild yeasts and other microbes can
slowly digest. Hops are used sparingly and are included only for their
preservative properties. For this reason, hops used for Belgian sour
beers are deliberately aged to allow the essential oils and soft resins
found in fresh hops to degrade. For Belgian sour beers, the raw wort is
allowed to cool naturally in an open container where it is exposed to the
air. Berliner weisse wort has unhulled raw wheat added to it, so that
Lactobacillus bacteria which naturally occur on the hulls begin the
fermentation. Fermentation by S. Cerevisiae and similar yeasts, which
produces alcohol, only begins to occur several days after the initial
infection. Since Flemish sour beers are spontaneously fermented they
can only be brewed when weather conditions promote the right mix of
microbes, traditionally from mid-October to mid-April.
Belgian aged sour beers are stored in wood or plastic containers
which allow oxygen to slowly penetrate. Traditionally, wooden casks
also allow some water to evaporate, requiring that more beer or wort be
added to top up the volume. This process gives the bacteria a slow,
constant source of new sugars to ferment, allowing complex flavors to
develop as the beer ages. Depending on the character of a particular
batch of beer, it can be left to age for up to 3 years. Fruit lambics
generally have whole, macerated fruit added to the beer after about 1
year of aging, and the fruit is allowed to sit for up to a year. In some
cases, the fermenting mix will develop a pellicle of mold and trub on the
top, which protects the beer from further infection by unwanted
microorganisms.
When the brewer decides that a particular batch of lambic has
reached the peak of perfection, he will bottle it, often blending two or
more batches to achieve a desired flavor. Unblended lambics can be
young or old, with old lambics being sourer than young lambics. Young
lambic is sometimes blended with sugar to produce a locally-consumed
specialty beer called Faro (pronounced Fah-rho). Blended lambics
usually mix batches of young and old lambic to produce a better
balance between sweet and sour.
The Lambic Fermentation Cycle
As you might imagine, limbic fermentation relies on a whole
microbiological ecosystem of yeasts, which succeed each other in the
same way that different types of plants succeed each other after a
forest fire destroys the vegetation. The first “colonists” to feed on the
fresh word are the Kloeckera and Enterobacter strains. This mixture of
microbes consumes glucose and lowers pH. Kloeckera produces
ethanol and breaks down proteins, while the enteric bacteria produce
acetic acid. The combination of ethanol and lower pH inhibits further
bacterial growth, while proteins made available by yeast action and
bacteria autolysis provide nutrients necessary to slow-growing microbes
such as Brettanomyces and Pediococcus.
After 1-2 weeks, the bacteria and Kloeckera yeasts die off,
allowing the second generation of colonists; Saccharomyces yeasts, to
slowly take over; although the lack of glucose and prior bacterial activity
inhibit quick Saccharomyces growth. Over a period of approximately 34 months they consume about 75% of the fermentable sugars in the
wort. At that point, the third wave of colonists start to appear in
noticeable quantities, in the form of slow-growing Brettanomyces yeasts
and Pediococcus bacteria. Brett forms a thick “ropy” pellicle on the
surface of the beer, inhibiting oxidation, which provides ideal conditions
for the Pediococcus, which prefers anaerobic respiration, and inhibits
Acetobacter which prefers aerobic respiration. The Pediococcus strains
impart lactic sourness, while the Brettanomyces strains impart the
“earthy,” “horsy, “mousy,” “leathery” or “barnyard” flavors and aromas
that make lambics so distinct. At one year of age, the microflora in the
lambic have reached a constant state, although the beer will continue to
develop as it is aged.
Brewing Sour Beers at Home
There are basically three ways to create a sour beer: Sour Mash,
Acid Additions or Microflora Cultures.
Sour Mash: Sour mash relies on the bacteria that naturally occur
on raw grain. Basically, you crush your malt and let it soak overnight (or
even a few days) before you mash it, letting the bacteria sour the beer.
In theory, the longer you let the mash sit, the sourer it becomes,
although in practice this can be problematic.
Berlinerweisse and some old-fashioned American regional beers
(Kentucky Common, Swanky) are produced using Sour Mash. Many
fermented beer-like beverages native to the tropics are also fermented
using a variation of the sour mash process. Such beers use starchy
vegetables that the brewers chew up and spit into the fermenter.
Human saliva provides both amylase and lactobacillus, while the
alcohol produced by the wild yeast which infects the wort sanitizes the
final product.
Acid Additions: It is possible to add lemon juice, citric acid,
distilled vinegar or lactic acid to your cooled wort or raw beer. This is a
quick and dirty way of giving a sour tang to a beer without the time,
trouble or risk of messing with wild microbes. It is appropriate if you just
want to impart a “crisp” lactic or citric tartness to your brew, but artificial
acid additions won’t produce the complexity of flavors you get from a
sour mash or wild fermentation.
Microflora Cultures: Whether spontaneously fermented or
carefully controlled, microbial action produces the greatest range and
complexity of flavors and aromas. It is also the hardest of the three
options to control. I’m not going to offer tips on microflora culturing at
home because I’ve never done it. The process of brewing beer using
this form of fermentation is extremely demanding, requiring time,
money, space and special equipment as well as special bacterial
cultures. Lambic brewers routinely let their beers sit in secondary for
years, so the would-be lambic brewer must have the space and money
to buy and store dedicated lambic carboys. Producing sour beers in this
fashion also requires some common-sense precautions to keep the
beer-souring bugs from infecting your regular brews. See the
Bibliography for references on how to brew sour beers. At the very
least, you will either want to read Wild Brews or Lambics or look at Jim
Liddel’s website.
Blending
Another factor which makes brewing sour beers at home difficult
is the need to blend different batches of beer in order to get just the
right flavor. While one batch of spontaneously-fermented beer might
taste terrible on its own, it can add complexity to other batches of beer
when blended in small amounts. Although not as well publicized as the
art of brewing lambics, the art of blending lambics is almost as complex
and demanding; some limbic brewers consider it to be something of a
lost art. There are no secrets, just patience and experience in knowing
how different batches of lambic are developing, and a skilled and
sensitive palate, so you can blend different batches of limbic to best
effect.
By contrast, the other styles of sour beer are easier to blend since
they have simpler microbiological cultures and develop in a more
predictable fashion.
Part 2: The Microflora AKA Troubleshooting
The amazing thing about sour beers, is that sour beer brewers
turn what ordinary brewers would consider to be a major mistake into
something that tastes wonderful. More typically, infection by these
beasties is a sign of a Serious Problem.
This section is a quick guide to what critters can get into your
beer and what flavors they impart to the brew. Fortunately, most of this
microflora grow slowly and are inhibited by the presence of hops and
alcohol. For this reason, they are easily out-competed by ordinary, mildmannered S. cerevisiae. But, beware wild yeast strains!.
Microbes that infect beer generally fall into six genera:
Acetobacter, Brettanomyces, Lactobacillus, Kloeckera, Pediococcus
and Saccharomyces. Of these, only four are important in the production
of Belgian sour beers, and only one (Lactobacillus) is important in
producing Berlinerweisse.
Acetobacter: Acetobacter are genera of bacteria that convert
ethanol into acetic acid. Acetobacter are used to make vinegar. They
strongly prefer an aerobic environment, so they only appear when
infected beer is aerated. Since aeration also promotes oxidation, lambic
brewers must be especially careful not to expose the culturing beer to
oxygen. To some extent, the pellicles formed by Brettannomyces and
Pediococcus cultures prevent oxygen from getting into the beer.
Brettanomyces (Br. bruxellensis, Br. lambicus, Br. clausenii):
“Brett” is a genera of yeasts most responsible for the flavor
characteristics of many Belgian beers. When seen under the
microscope, they usually have an ellipsoidal shape, but can also be
cylindrical or elongated. Since they often form branched chains as they
grow, they can create a waxy- or papery-looking pellicle which floats on
the surface of the beer, sometimes with large “bubbles” in it.
Under aerobic conditions, they can metabolize glucose and
alcohol into acetic acid but also seem to produce more ethanol under
similar conditions. By contrast Saccharomyces produces less alcohol
under aerobic conditions. Also unlike Saccharomyces, Brett can digest
dextrins, resulting in a slow, constant fermentation over a period of
months.
Brettanomyces produces characteristic acetic, vinous, cidery,
earthy or “horsy” aromas. In normal brewing they can also produce
various off flavors described as phenolic, medicinal, smoky, leathery,
“mousy,” sweaty, cheesy or goaty. In limited quantities, Brett aromas
and flavor are a desirable characteristic in some Belgian beers!
B. bruxellensis is the dominant Brett strain around Brussels. It
imparts rich earthy notes and an acetic finish.
B. claussenii was the first Brett species to be isolated, in 1904, by
the same Danish researchers who discovered lager yeast. It was
isolated from an English “stock” beer (a strong, matured beer, used for
blending with younger beers), which is why the translation of the genus
Brettanomyces means “British sugar fungus. It is hard to get
commercially, but some lambic brewers (especially Frank Boon)
consider it important, since it imparts fruity characteristics as well as the
classic Brett “horsiness.”
B. lambicus is associated with Belgian countryside breweries. It
imparts distinctive flavors and aromas described as “horsy” or “old
leather.”
Tips on Using Brett: Several strains of Brettanomyces can be
cultured form the dregs of Orval beers (several strains of Br.
bruxellensis).
There is also some evidence that Brettanomyces has an affinity
with wood, and produces more flavor when in contact with it. For this
reason, homebrewers who ferment wild beers in glass sometimes add a
few oak chips to the carboy.
Disturbing the pellicle on a fermenting container of sour beer isn’t
that big a deal as long as you don’t aerate the beer when you do it.
Aeration will induce Brettanomyces regrowth and make it convert
alcohol into acetic acid.
Enteric Bacteria (Enterobacter cloacea, Klebsiella
pneumoniae, Escherichia coli, Hafnia alvei, Enterobacter
aerogenes and Citrobacter freundii, etc.): Various genera of enteric
bacteria are some of the first microbes to appear in raw wort, but die off
within a month due to increased levels of ethanol and lowered pH. They
are critical in flavor of wild and sour beers. Unfortunately, they are
related to some of the microbes that cause food poisoning. Fortunately,
the species which grow in beer are harmless, except to people with
compromised immune systems. Since enteric bacteria are commonly
found in ordinary kitchens (especially on dirty dishrags and sponges),
unless you are absolutely fanatical about sanitation, if you brew in your
kitchen you probably have some enteric bacteria in your wort.
Fortunately, in non-sour beers, a healthy yeast culture quickly
outcompetes any enteric bacteria, killing them within hours to days as
the wort’s pH drops.
Enterobacteria are the primarily producers of acetic acid in sour
beers. Their metabolism also consumes much of the available glucose
in the wort, slowing Saccharomyces growth, which in turn allows slowgrowing microbes such as Brett and Pediococcus to survive. They are
also important in that when they die, they release nutrients necessary
for Brett and Pediococcus.
They produce odors and flavors described as celery-like, parsniplike, mushroom-like, smoky or moldy which are not removed by the
fermentation process. They can also produce lactic or acetic sourness.
Tip on Using Enteric Bacteria: To infect your brew with enteric
bacteria, leave the cooled wort open near a kitchen sink for several
hours and then wait 24 hours before pitching your yeast. Delaying yeast
pitching lets the bacteria gain a foothold before the drop in pH due to
their metabolism, and the increase in ethanol produced by the yeast
kills them off.
Kloeckera (K. apiculata): This is a genus of yeast which
consumes glucose, produces ethanol, and secretes enzymes that break
down proteins, releasing amino acids for use by later generations of
microbes. It also lowers pH, which in combination with ethanol, tends to
inhibit bacterial action. Since it can metabolize only glucose, it dies off
early in the fermentation process, allowing Saccharomyces to gradually
take over (the lack of glucose inhibits quick Saccharomyces growth).
Lactobacillus (L. delbrueckii): As its name implies,
Lactobacillus is a genera of bacteria which produce lactic acid. Some
work on lactose, others convert glucose to lactic acid. L. delbruckii is
the bacteria used to ferment Berliner Weiss. L. acidophilus is used to
convert milk into yogurt, while other lactobacillus species are
responsible for turning milk into cheese or souring sauerkraut. Some
brewers have experimented with using L. acidophilus culture by adding
yogurt to their beer. Berliner Weiss is traditionally been inoculated with
lactobacillus by adding raw, unhulled wheat to the cooled wort.
Beer soured by lactobacillus will have a crisp sour flavor, as
opposed to a more astringent and vinous sourness from acetobacter
infection.
Note on culturing Lactobacillus: For lambics, it is possible to
make a culture of this bacteria (and other microbes) by culturing the
dregs of a bottle of Dentergem's Wit or Petrus Oud Bruin. Since
lactobacillus can grow slowly, this is another starter culture which must
be prepared several days beforehand.
Pediococcus (P. cerevisiae, P. damnosus): “Pedio” is a slowgrowing, lactic-acid producing bacteria which prefers warm, anaerobic
conditions. It generally appears in conjunction with Brett species, since
Brett produces a pellicle on top of the wort which inhibits diffusion of
oxygen into the wort. Pedio will also sometimes form a “wrinkly,” “ropy,”
“stringy” or “brain-like” pellicle of its own. It gradually appears over a
period of 3-4 months, gradually killing off Saccharomyces species as it
produces lactic acid.
In traditionally-produced lambics, the increase in Pedio growth
also coincides with warmer spring and summer temperatures. Without
Part 2: Sour Ales (BJCP Category 17)
17A. Berliner Weisse
Aroma: A sharply sour, somewhat acidic character is dominant.
Can have up to a moderately fruity character. The fruitiness may
increase with age and a flowery character may develop. A mild
Brettanomyces aroma may be present. No hop aroma, diacetyl, or
DMS.
Appearance: Very pale straw in color. Clarity ranges from clear
to somewhat hazy. Large, dense, white head with poor retention due to
high acidity and low protein and hop content. Always effervescent.
Flavor: Clean lactic sourness dominates and can be quite strong,
although not so acidic as a lambic. Some complementary bready or
grainy wheat flavor is generally noticeable. Hop bitterness is very low. A
mild Brettanomyces character may be detected, as may a restrained
fruitiness (both are optional). No hop flavor. No diacetyl or DMS.
Mouthfeel: Light body. Very dry finish. Very high carbonation. No
sensation of alcohol.
Overall Impression: A very pale, sour, refreshing, low-alcohol
wheat ale.
Comments: In Germany, it is classified as a Schankbier denoting
a small beer of starting gravity in the range 7-8°P. Often served with the
addition of a shot of sugar syrups (‘mit schuss’) flavored with raspberry
(‘himbeer’) or woodruff (‘waldmeister’) or even mixed with Pils to
counter the substantial sourness. Has been described by some as the
most purely refreshing beer in the world.
History: A regional specialty of Berlin; referred to by Napoleon's
troops in 1809 as “the Champagne of the North” due to its lively and
elegant character. Only two traditional breweries [Schultheiss and Kindl]
still produce the product [in Berlin]. [Like Kölsch or Champagne, the
the rise in temperature, the bacteria will not appear, resulting in less
sourness.
In addition to producing a lactic sourness, Pedio also produces
large amounts of diacetyl, detectable as “slipperiness” or “butteriness”
on the tongue or the back of the mouth. Diacetyl is also detectable as a
vanilla, butterscotch, buttery, or toffee aroma or flavor.
Tips on using Pediococcus: Excluding oxygen is critical when
working with Pedio. In an anaerobic environment, it will gradually
convert glucose to lactic acid, imparting a smooth, complex sourness to
the beer. Do not aerate Pedio starters and start them at least a week
before you intend to brew. Since it is a tricky organism to cultivate
successfully, you may need to make two or three starters.
Saccharomyces (S. cerevisiae, S. globosus, S. dairensis, S.
uvarum, S. bayanus, etc.): Various genera of Saccharomyces can
metabolize monosaccharides, disaccharides and (occasionally)
trisaccharides to produce carbon dioxide and ethanol. Some wild
Saccharomyces strains can also ferment dextrins. The various strains
of yeast produce a vast variety of aroma and flavor byproducts. Strains
of yeast used for wild beers can often produce high levels of phenols,
producing medicinal, smoky or spicy aromas and flavors.
Saccharomyces is the main producer of ethanol in sour beers.
In sour beers, Saccharomyces is the “second wave” of microbes
to take over (the first being Kloeckera and enterobacteria), first
appearing 1-2 weeks after the wort is pitched. As their numbers
increase, the ethanol they produce kills off the first wave of invaders. In
turn, Saccharomyces is killed off by the increasing acidity brought on by
Pediococcus and Brett, gradually declining over a period of 3-4 months.
term Berlinerweisse is an Appellation Controlee, protected by the
E.U. European brewers outside of Berlin cannot call their products
“Berlinerweisse.”]
Ingredients: Wheat malt content is typically 50% of the grist
(as with all German wheat beers) with the remainder being Pilsner
malt. A symbiotic fermentation with top-fermenting yeast and
Lactobacillus delbruckii provides the sharp sourness, which may be
enhanced by blending of beers of different ages during fermentation
and by extended cool aging. Hop bitterness is extremely low. A
single decoction mash with mash hopping is traditional.
Commercial Examples: Weihenstephan 1809 (unusual in its
5% ABV), Bahnhof Berliner Style Weisse. (Unofficial: Bruery
Hottenroth).
17B. Belgian Red Ale
Aroma: Complex fruitiness with complementary malt.
Fruitiness is high, and reminiscent of black cherries, oranges, plums
or red currants. There is often some vanilla and/or chocolate notes.
Spicy phenols can be present in low amounts for complexity. The
sour, acidic aroma ranges from complementary to intense. No hop
aroma. Diacetyl is perceived only in very minor quantities, if at all, as
a complementary aroma.
Appearance: Deep red, burgundy to reddish-brown in color.
Good clarity. White to very pale tan head. Average to good head
retention.
Flavor: Intense fruitiness commonly includes plum, orange,
black cherry or red currant flavors. A mild vanilla and/or chocolate
character is often present. Spicy phenols can be present in low
amounts for complexity. Sour, acidic character ranges from
complementary to intense. Malty flavors range from complementary
to prominent. Generally as the sour character increases, the sweet
character blends to more of a background flavor (and vice versa). No
hop flavor. Restrained hop bitterness. An acidic, tannic bitterness is
often present in low to moderate amounts, and adds an aged red winelike character with a long, dry finish. Diacetyl is perceived only in very
minor quantities, if at all, as a complementary flavor.
Mouthfeel: Medium bodied. Low to medium carbonation. Low to
medium astringency, like a well-aged red wine, often with a prickly
acidity. Deceivingly light and crisp on the palate although a somewhat
sweet finish is not uncommon.
Overall Impression: A complex, sour, red wine-like Belgian-style
ale.
Comments: Long aging and blending of young and well-aged
beer often occurs, adding to the smoothness and complexity, though
the aged product is sometimes released as a connoisseur’s beer.
Known as the Burgundy of Belgium, it is more wine-like than any other
beer style. The reddish color is a product of the malt although an
extended, less-than-rolling portion of the boil may help add an attractive
Burgundy hue. Aging will also darken the beer. The Flanders red is
more acetic and the fruity flavors more reminiscent of a red wine than
an Oud Bruin. Can have an apparent attenuation of up to 98%.
History: The indigenous beer of West Flanders, typified by the
products of the Rodenbach brewery, established in 1820 in West
Flanders but reflective of earlier brewing traditions. The beer is aged for
up to two years, often in huge oaken barrels which contain the resident
bacteria necessary to sour the beer. It was once common in Belgium
and England to blend old beer with young to balance the sourness and
acidity found in aged beer. While blending of batches for consistency is
now common among larger breweries, this type of blending is a fading
art.
Ingredients: A base of Vienna and/or Munich malts, light to
medium cara-malts, and a small amount of Special B are used with up
to 20% maize. Low alpha acid continental hops are commonly used
(avoid high alpha or distinctive American hops). Saccharomyces,
Lactobacillus and Brettanomyces (and acetobacter) contribute to the
fermentation and eventual flavor.
Commercial Examples: Duchesse de Bourgogne, Monks Café
Red Ale.
17C. Belgian Brown Ale/Oud Bruin
Aroma: Complex combination of fruity esters and rich malt
character. Esters commonly reminiscent of raisins, plums, figs, dates,
black cherries or prunes. A malt character of caramel, toffee, orange,
treacle or chocolate is also common. Spicy phenols can be present in
low amounts for complexity. A sherry-like character may be present and
generally denotes an aged example. A low sour aroma may be present,
and can modestly increase with age but should not grow to a noticeable
acetic/vinegary character. Hop aroma absent. Diacetyl is perceived only
in very minor quantities, if at all, as a complementary aroma.
Appearance: Dark reddish-brown to brown in color. Good clarity.
Average to good head retention. Ivory to light tan head color.
Flavor: Malty with fruity complexity and some caramelization
character. Fruitiness commonly includes dark fruits such as raisins,
plums, figs, dates, black cherries or prunes. A malt character of
caramel, toffee, orange, treacle or chocolate is also common. Spicy
phenols can be present in low amounts for complexity. A slight
sourness often becomes more pronounced in well-aged examples,
along with some sherry-like character, producing a “sweet-and-sour”
profile. The sourness should not grow to a notable acetic/vinegary
character. Hop flavor absent. Restrained hop bitterness. Low oxidation
is appropriate as a point of complexity. Diacetyl is perceived only in
very minor quantities, if at all, as a complementary flavor.
Mouthfeel: Medium to medium-full body. Low to moderate
carbonation. No astringency with a sweet and tart finish.
Overall Impression: A malty, fruity, aged, somewhat sour
Belgian-style brown ale.
Comments: Long aging and blending of young and aged beer
may occur, adding smoothness and complexity and balancing any
harsh, sour character. A deeper malt character distinguishes these
beers from Flanders red ales. This style was designed to lay down so
examples with a moderate aged character are considered superior to
younger examples. As in fruit lambics, Oud Bruin can be used as a
base for fruit-flavored beers such as kriek (cherries) or frambozen
(raspberries), though these should be entered in the classic-style fruit
beer category. The Oud Bruin is less acetic and maltier than a
Flanders Red, and the fruity flavors are more malt-oriented.
History: An “old ale” tradition, indigenous to East Flanders,
typified by the products of the Liefman brewery (now owned by Riva),
which has roots back to the 1600s. Historically brewed as a
“provision beer” that would develop some sourness as it aged. These
beers were typically more sour than current commercial examples.
While Flanders red beers are aged in oak, the brown beers are warm
aged in stainless steel.
Ingredients: A base of Pils malt with judicious amounts of dark
cara malts and a tiny bit of black or roast malt. Often includes maize.
Low alpha acid continental hops are typical (avoid high alpha or
distinctive American hops). Saccharomyces and Lactobacillus (and
acetobacter) contribute to the fermentation and eventual flavor.
Lactobacillus reacts poorly to elevated levels of alcohol. A sour mash
or acidulated malt may also be used to develop the sour character
without introducing Lactobacillus. Water high in carbonates is typical
of its home region and will buffer the acidity of darker malts and the
lactic sourness. Magnesium in the water accentuates the sourness.
Commercial Examples: Liefman’s Goudenband.
17D. Straight (Unblended) Lambic
Aroma: A decidedly sour/acidic aroma is often dominant in
young examples, but may be more subdued with age as it blends
with aromas described as barnyard, earthy, goaty, hay, horsey, and
horse blanket. A mild oak and/or citrus aroma is considered
favorable. An enteric, smoky, cigar-like, or cheesy aroma is
unfavorable. Older versions are commonly fruity with aromas of
apples or even honey. No hop aroma. No diacetyl.
Appearance: Pale yellow to deep golden in color. Age tends to
darken the beer. Clarity is hazy to good. Younger versions are often
cloudy, while older ones are generally clear. Head retention is
generally poor. Head color is white.
Flavor: Young examples are often noticeably sour and/or
lactic, but aging can bring this character more in balance with the
malt, wheat and barnyard characteristics. Fruity flavors are simpler in
young lambics and more complex in the older examples, where they
are reminiscent of apples or other light fruits, rhubarb, or honey.
Some oak or citrus flavor (often grapefruit) is occasionally noticeable.
An enteric, smoky or cigar-like character is undesirable. Hop
bitterness is low to none. No hop flavor. No diacetyl.
Mouthfeel: Light to medium-light body. In spite of the low
finishing gravity, the many mouth-filling flavors prevent the beer from
tasting like water. As a rule of thumb lambic dries with age, which
makes dryness a reasonable indicator of age. Has a medium to high
tart, puckering quality without being sharply astringent. Virtually to
completely uncarbonated.
Overall Impression: Complex, sour/acidic, pale, wheat-based
ale fermented by a variety of Belgian microbiota.
Comments: Straight lambics are single-batch, unblended beers.
Since they are unblended, the straight lambic is often a true product of
the “house character” of a brewery and will be more variable than a
gueuze. They are generally served young (6 months) and on tap as
cheap, easy-drinking beers without any filling carbonation. Younger
versions tend to be one-dimensionally sour since a complex Brett
character often takes upwards of a year to develop. An enteric
character is often indicative of a lambic that is too young. A noticeable
vinegary or cidery character is considered a fault by Belgian brewers.
Since the wild yeast and bacteria will ferment ALL sugars, they are
bottled only when they have completely fermented. Lambic is served
uncarbonated, while gueuze is served effervescent. IBUs are
approximate since aged hops are used; Belgians use hops for antibacterial properties more than bittering in lambics.
History: Spontaneously fermented sour ales from the area in and
around Brussels (the Senne Valley) stem from a farmhouse brewing
tradition several centuries old. Their numbers are constantly dwindling.
Ingredients: Unmalted wheat (30-40%), Pilsner malt and aged
(surannes) hops (3 years) are used. The aged hops are used more for
preservative effects than bitterness, and makes actual bitterness levels
difficult to estimate. Traditionally these beers are spontaneously
fermented with naturally-occurring yeast and bacteria in predominately
oaken barrels. Home-brewed and craft-brewed versions are more
typically made with pure cultures of yeast commonly including
Saccharomyces, Brettanomyces, Pediococcus and Lactobacillus in an
attempt to recreate the effects of the dominant microbiota of Brussels
and the surrounding countryside of the Senne River valley. Cultures
taken from bottles are sometimes used but there is no simple way of
knowing what organisms are still viable.
Commercial Examples: None at this session (Cantillon Grand
Cru Bruocsella 1900 for the exam). Unofficial: De Proef Belgian
Primitive (3 variants).
17E. Gueuze
Aroma: A moderately sour/acidic aroma blends with aromas
described as barnyard, earthy, goaty, hay, horsey, and horse blanket.
While some may be more dominantly sour/acidic, balance is the key
and denotes a better gueuze. Commonly fruity with aromas of citrus
fruits (often grapefruit), apples or other light fruits, rhubarb, or honey. A
very mild oak aroma is considered favorable. An enteric, smoky, cigarlike, or cheesy aroma is unfavorable. No hop aroma. No diacetyl.
Appearance: Golden in color. Clarity is excellent (unless the
bottle was shaken). A thick rocky, mousse-like, white head seems to
last forever. Always effervescent.
Flavor: A moderately sour/acidic character is classically in
balance with the malt, wheat and barnyard characteristics. A low,
complementary sweetness may be present but higher levels are
uncharacteristic. While some may be more dominantly sour, balance is
the key and denotes a better gueuze. A varied fruit flavor is common,
and can have a honey-like character. A mild vanilla and/or oak flavor is
occasionally noticeable. An enteric, smoky or cigar-like character is
undesirable. Hop bitterness is generally absent but a very low hop
bitterness may occasionally be perceived. No hop flavor. No diacetyl.
Mouthfeel: Light to medium-light body. In spite of the low
finishing gravity, the many mouth-filling flavors prevent the beer from
tasting like water. Has a low to high tart, puckering quality without being
sharply astringent. Some versions have a low warming character.
Highly carbonated.
Overall Impression: Complex, pleasantly sour/acidic, balanced,
pale, wheat-based ale fermented by a variety of Belgian microbiota.
Comments: Gueuze is traditionally produced by mixing one, two,
and three-year old lambic. “Young” lambic contains fermentable sugars
while old lambic has the characteristic “wild” taste of the Senne River
valley. A good gueuze is not the most pungent, but possesses a full
and tantalizing bouquet, a sharp aroma, and a soft, velvety flavor.
Lambic is served uncarbonated, while gueuze is served effervescent.
IBUs are approximate since aged hops are used; Belgians use hops
for anti-bacterial properties more than bittering in lambics. Products
marked “oude” or “ville” are considered most traditional.
History: Spontaneously fermented sour ales from the area in
and around Brussels (the Senne Valley) stem from a farmhouse
brewing tradition several centuries old. Their numbers are constantly
dwindling and some are untraditionally sweetening their products
(post-fermentation) to make them more palatable to a wider
audience.
Ingredients: Unmalted wheat (30-40%), Pilsner malt and aged
(surannes) hops (3 years) are used. The aged hops are used more
for preservative effects than bitterness, and makes actual bitterness
levels difficult to estimate. Traditionally these beers are
spontaneously fermented with naturally-occurring yeast and bacteria
in predominately oaken barrels. Home-brewed and craft-brewed
versions are more typically made with pure cultures of yeast
commonly including Saccharomyces, Brettanomyces, Pediococcus
and Lactobacillus in an attempt to recreate the effects of the
dominant microbiota of Brussels and the surrounding countryside of
the Senne River valley. Cultures taken from bottles are sometimes
used but there is no simple way of knowing what organisms are still
viable.
Commercial Examples: Oud Beersel Oud Gueuze,
Lindemans Gueuze Cuvée René.
17D. Fruit Lambic
Aroma: The fruit which has been added to the beer should be
the dominant aroma. A low to moderately sour/acidic character
blends with aromas described as barnyard, earthy, goaty, hay,
horsey, and horse blanket (and thus should be recognizable as a
lambic). The fruit aroma commonly blends with the other aromas. An
enteric, smoky, cigar-like, or cheesy aroma is unfavorable. No hop
aroma. No diacetyl.
Appearance: The variety of fruit generally determines the color
though lighter-colored fruit may have little effect on the color. The
color intensity may fade with age. Clarity is often good, although
some fruit will not drop bright. A thick rocky, mousse-like head,
sometimes a shade of fruit, is generally long-lasting. Always
effervescent.
Flavor: The fruit added to the beer should be evident. A low to
moderate sour and more commonly (sometimes high) acidic
character is present. The classic barnyard characteristics may be low
to high. When young, the beer will present its full fruity taste. As it
ages, the lambic taste will become dominant at the expense of the
fruit character – thus fruit lambics are not intended for long aging. A
low, complementary sweetness may be present, but higher levels are
uncharacteristic. A mild vanilla and/or oak flavor is occasionally
noticeable. An enteric, smoky or cigar-like character is undesirable.
Hop bitterness is generally absent. No hop flavor. No diacetyl.
Mouthfeel: Light to medium-light body. In spite of the low
finishing gravity, the many mouth-filling flavors prevent the beer from
tasting like water. Has a low to high tart, puckering quality without
being sharply astringent. Some versions have a low warming
character. Highly carbonated.
Overall Impression: Complex, fruity, pleasantly sour/acidic,
balanced, pale, wheat-based ale fermented by a variety of Belgian
microbiota. A lambic with fruit, not just a fruit beer.
Comments: Fruit-based lambics are often produced like gueuze
by mixing one, two, and three-year old lambic. “Young” lambic contains
fermentable sugars while old lambic has the characteristic “wild” taste
of the Senne River valley. Fruit is commonly added halfway through
aging and the yeast and bacteria will ferment all sugars from the fruit.
Fruit may also be added to unblended lambic. The most traditional
styles of fruit lambics include kriek (cherries), framboise (raspberries)
and druivenlambik (muscat grapes). ENTRANT MUST SPECIFY THE
TYPE OF FRUIT(S) USED IN MAKING THE LAMBIC. Any overly sweet
lambics (e.g., Lindemans or Belle Vue clones) would do better entered
in the 16E Belgian Specialty category since this category does not
describe beers with that character. IBUs are approximate since aged
hops are used; Belgians use hops for anti-bacterial properties more
than bittering in lambics.
History: Spontaneously fermented sour ales from the area in and
around Brussels (the Senne Valley) stem from a farmhouse brewing
tradition several centuries old. Their numbers are constantly dwindling
and some are untraditionally sweetening their products (postfermentation) with sugar or sweet fruit to make them more palatable to
a wider audience. Fruit was traditionally added to lambic or gueuze,
either by the blender or publican, to increase the variety of beers
available in local cafes.
Ingredients: Unmalted wheat (30-40%), Pilsner malt and aged
(surannes) hops (3 years) are used. The aged hops are used more
for preservative effects than bitterness, and makes actual bitterness
levels difficult to estimate. Traditional products use 10-30% fruit
(25%, if cherry). Fruits traditionally used include tart cherries (with
pits), raspberries or Muscat grapes. More recent examples include
peaches, apricots or merlot grapes. Tart or acidic fruit is traditionally
used as its purpose is not to sweeten the beer but to add a new
dimension. Traditionally these beers are spontaneously fermented
with naturally-occurring yeast and bacteria in predominately oaken
barrels. Home-brewed and craft-brewed versions are more typically
made with pure cultures of yeast commonly including
Saccharomyces, Brettanomyces, Pediococcus and Lactobacillus in
an attempt to recreate the effects of the dominant microbiota of
Brussels and the surrounding countryside of the Senne River valley.
Cultures taken from bottles are sometimes used but there is no
simple way of knowing what organisms are still viable.
Commercial Examples: Boon Kriek, Hanssen’s Kriek.
Vital Statistics
Name
17A. Berliner Weisse
17B. Flanders Red Ale
17C. Flanders Brown Ale/Oud Bruin
17D. Straight (Unblended) Lambic
17E. Gueuze
17F. Fruit Lambic
OG
1.028-1.032
1.048-1.057
1.040-1.074
1.040-1.054
1.040-1.060
1.040-1.060
Inspirational Reading
Books
Guinard, Jean-Xavier. Lambic, Brewer’s Publications, Boulder,
Co.
Hieronymus, Stan. Brewing With Wheat. Brewers Publications,
Boulder, Co.
Jackson, Michael. Great Beers of Belgium.
Jackson, Michael. Pocket Guide to Beer.
Jackson, Michael. World Guide to Beer.
Rajotte, Pierre. Belgian Ale, Brewer’s Publications, Boulder, Co.
Sparrow, Jeff. Wild Brews: Beer Beyond the Influence of
Brewer’s Yeast. Brewer’s Publications, Boulder, Co.
FG
1.003-1.006
1.002-1.012
1.008-1.012
1.001-1.010
1.000-1.006
1.000-1.010
ABV
2.8-3.8%
4.6-6.5%
4-8%
5-6.5%
5-8%
5-7%
IBU
3-8
10-25
20-25
0-10
0-10
0-10
SRM
2-3
10-16
15-22
3-7
3-7
3-7
The Biohazard Lambic Brewer's Page (http://liddil.com/beer/)
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!
Where the Wild Yeasts Are!
(http://hbd.org/brewery/library/LambicD0530.html)
Berliner Weisse
Berliner Weisse (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Berliner_Weisse)
Berliner-Kindl (http://www.berliner-kindl.de/) (Fluffy brewery web
page, in German)
German Beer Styles: Berliner Weisse
(http://www.germanbeerguide.co.uk/berliner.html)
Brewing Sour Beers
Belgian Sour Beers
A Silk Purse from a Sow's Ear
(http://hbd.org/brewery/library/Lambic.html)
Brewing Belgian Beer Here
(http://www.belgianstyle.com/mmguide/brew/brew01.html)
Lactic Acid Beverages: Sour Beer, (milk) & Soda
(http://www2.parc.com/emdl/members/apte/GingerBeer.pdf) PDF of a
presentation by Raj Apte, one of the major homebrew researchers into
sour beers.
Lambic Beer FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)
(http://brewery.org/library/LambicFAQ.html)
Lambic Brewing
(http://byo.com/component/resource/article/979-lambic-brewing)
Lambic resources on the Net
(http://bergsman.org/jeremy/lambic/net.html)
New Lambic FAQ and Resources
(http://bergsman.org/jeremy/lambic/lambic.html)
The Anarchist's p-Lambic
(http://www.brewery.org/brewery/library/Anarchplamb.html)
Belgian Brown Ale
(http://www.belgianstyle.com/mmguide/style/brown.html)
Brewery Rodenbach: Brewing Sour Ales
(http://hbd.org/brewery/library/Rodnbch.html)
Oud Bruin and Flanders Red Ale
(http://www.belgianstyle.com/mmguide/style/sour.html)
Oud Bruin
(http://www.belgianstyle.com/mmguide/taste/oudbruin.html)
Lambic
Belgium's Great Beers: The Lambic Family of Beers
(http://www.beerhunter.com/documents/19133-000214.html)
Brouwerij 3 Fonteinen (http://www.3fonteinen.be/index_e.htm)
Brouwerij Cantillon
(http://www.cantillon.be/br/Cantillon.php?lang=3&page=1)
Lambic (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lambic)
Lambic Ale
(http://www.belgianstyle.com/mmguide/style/lambic.html)
Lindeman's (http://www.lindemans.be/start/home/en)
Oud Beersel (http://www.oudbeersel.com/en/)