Download Horticulture Newsletter May 2011 - Iowa State University Extension

Montgomery County
400 Bridge Street, Suite 2
Red Oak, IA 51566-1402
712-623-2592
FAX 712-623-2594
E-mail: [email protected]
HORTICULTURE
NEWSLETTER
DATE: MAY 2011
Bill Drey
Bill Drey
Montgomery County Extension Education Director
Plant Communities of Iowa Program
The Iowa Master Gardener program will offer the second annual Summer Webinar Series:
Garden Natives &Invasives 2011.Iowa State University Extension county offices are hosting these
gardening webcast programs. Please note that the nearest participating location is the
Montgomery County Extension Office in Red Oak.
The first session, Plant Communities of Iowa, is scheduled for May 24 and will discuss the
history and relevance of native ecosystems across Iowa. Geology, soils, climate and human
intervention will be included. Items regarding the culture of some of these plants will include
discussions on how things like aspect, slope and soil types play a role in selecting proper plants
for your sites. By learning some of these principles, participants will be better able to design their
own landscapes using native plants. Suggested species of native plants for each plant
community will be mentioned. The session presenter is Howard Bright of Ion Exchange, Inc.,
Harpers Ferry, Iowa. The program will be held at the:
PLANT COMMUNITIES OF IOWA PROGRAM
May 24, 2011
MONTGOMERY COUNTY EXTENSION OFFICE
6:30 P.M. TO 8:30 P.M.
Ask the ISU Extension Garden Experts
Got gardening questions? Call the Hortline at (515) 294-3108, Monday-Friday from 10 a.m. to noon
and 1 to 4:30 p.m., or e-mail us at [email protected]. For more gardening information, visit us at Yard
and Garden Online, http://www.yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu
Yard and Garden: Lawn Care
|BY RICHARD JAURON
When should I apply a pre-emergent herbicide to my lawn to control crabgrass?
The key to the successful control of crabgrass in lawns is the correct timing of the pre-emergent
herbicide application. Crabgrass seeds begin to germinate when soil temperatures reach 55 to 60 F and continue
to germinate over several weeks from spring into summer. Pre-emergent herbicides normally should be applied in
early to mid-April in southern Iowa, mid-April to May 1 in central Iowa and late April to early May in the northern
portion of the state. Spring weather often varies considerably from year to year in Iowa. Accordingly, gardeners
should make minor adjustments in the timing of the pre-emergent herbicide application. If the weather in March
and April is consistently warmer than normal, apply the pre-emergent herbicide early in the normal period. Apply
the herbicide late in the recommended period if the state is experiencing a cool early spring. If you're still uncertain
when to apply a pre-emergent herbicide, Mother Nature provides some helpful (colorful) clues. Pre-emergent
herbicides should be applied when the forsythia blossoms start dropping or when redbud trees begin to bloom.
Crabgrass seed germination typically begins after these events.
When mowing the lawn, what is the proper mowing height?
Kentucky bluegrass lawns should be mowed at a height of 2 ½ to 3 inches in the spring and fall months. Mow
bluegrass lawns at a height of 3 to 3 ½ inches in June, July and August. A higher mowing height in summer helps
to cool the crowns of the turfgrass plants, encourages deeper rooting and provides more leaf area for
photosynthesis during the stressful summer months.
Mowing below the recommended range may scalp the turf and cause the turfgrass to deteriorate. Extremely
low mowing heights decrease the total leaf area, carbohydrate reserves and root growth, creating a situation
where the turfgrass plants are unable to produce enough food to meet their needs. This makes the plants more
susceptible to drought, high temperature and wear injury. In addition, the bare areas created by a decrease in
turfgrass density increase the chances of weed problems.
Mowing too high also can create problems. Mowing above the recommended range reduces tillering and
causes matting of the grass. Reduced tillering results in fewer and coarser plants, while matted grass creates a
micro-environment that encourages disease development.
How often should I mow my lawn?
Mowing frequency is based on the growth rate of the turfgrass and mowing height. As a general rule, never
remove more than one-third of the total leaf surface at any one mowing. Shorter mowing heights require more
frequent mowing. A lawn maintained at a 2-inch height should be mowed when the grass reaches a height of 3
inches, while a lawn maintained at a 3-inch height should be cut when it reaches a height of 4 ½ inches. One inch
of growth is removed when the lawn is maintained at a 2-inch height, one and one-half inches of growth is
removed when the grass is maintained at a 3-inch height. During favorable growing conditions it may take grass
five to six days to grow one inch, eight or nine days to grow one and one-half inches. Irrigation and fertilization
practices, weather conditions and other factors determine the growth rate of the turfgrass.
Should I bag my grass clippings when mowing the lawn?
When the lawn is mowed properly, grass clippings do not need to be removed or bagged. Small clippings filter
down into the turf and quickly decompose, returning essential plant nutrients to the soil. Lawn clippings do not
significantly contribute to thatch development.
Grass clippings may need to be bagged or raked and removed when mowing extremely tall grass. You also
may want to bag the grass clippings and use them as mulch in vegetable and flower gardens.
How do I control violets in my lawn?
Violets are difficult to control in turfgrass areas. Digging up the plants is an option for home
gardeners with a small infestation of violets. Broadleaf herbicides are the most practical solution when
dealing with large numbers of violets. Broadleaf herbicides containing triclopyr usually provide good
control of violets. Applications can be made in spring (when the violets are blooming) or fall. Two
applications, two to three weeks apart, are usually necessary to achieve good control.
Yard and Garden: Grow Tomatoes
BY RICHARD JAURON
Tomato plants are the most popular vegetable in the home garden. Iowa State University Extension garden
specialists explain varieties, growth habits and how and when to plant this vegetable of many sizes, shapes and
colors. Gardeners with additional questions can contact the experts by calling or emailing the ISU Extension
horticulture hotline at 515-294-3108 or [email protected].
In regards to tomatoes, what is meant by the terms “determinate” and “indeterminate”?
Determinate and indeterminate describe a tomato variety’s growth habit. Determinate tomatoes are small,
compact plants. They grow to a certain height, stop, then flower and set all their fruit within a short period of time.
The harvest period for determinate tomatoes is rather short, making them good choices for canning. Indeterminate
tomatoes continue to grow, flower and set fruit until killed by the first frost in the fall. Accordingly, the harvest from
indeterminate varieties often extends over a two to three month period. Yields are generally heavier than
determinate types, but fruit are usually later to mature. Indeterminate tomatoes are large, sprawling plants which
often perform best when grown in wire cages or trained on stakes.
What are some good tomato varieties for Iowa?
Suggested tomato varieties for Iowa include ‘Jet Star’ (indeterminate plant; red, oblate, medium to large
fruit), ‘Better Boy’ (indeterminate; red, round, medium-sized fruit), ‘Celebrity’ (determinate; red, oblate, medium to
large fruit), ‘Big Beef’ (indeterminate; red, oblate, large fruit), ‘Red Sun’ (determinate; red, globe-shaped, large
fruit), ‘Carolina Gold’ (determinate; golden orange, oblate, large fruit), ‘Pony Express’ (determinate; red, plumshaped fruit), ‘Sweet Olive’ (determinate; red, oval, grape-type fruit), and ‘Golden Sweet’ (indeterminate; yellow,
oval, grape-type fruit). Oblate fruit are roundish with slightly flattened tops and bottoms.
When purchasing tomato plants, are big or small plants better?
When purchasing tomato plants at your local greenhouse or garden center, select stocky, dark green
plants. Plants should be 6 to 10 inches tall with stems about pencil-size in thickness. Avoid large plants with
flowers and fruit. Early fruit development will stunt plant growth and reduce total yield.
I have started several tomato plants indoors. Can they be planted directly into the garden?
Plants started indoors or purchased at a greenhouse should be hardened or acclimated to outdoor
conditions before transplanting into the garden. Initially place the plants in a shady protected location, then
gradually expose them to longer periods of sunlight. After several days of hardening, the tomatoes should be
ready to be planted into the garden.
When can I plant tomatoes in Iowa?
Transplant tomatoes into the garden after the danger of frost is past. In central Iowa, it’s usually safe to
plant tomatoes around May 10. Gardeners in southern Iowa can plant one week earlier, while those in northern
areas should wait an extra week. The last practical date for planting tomatoes is approximately June 20.
What is the proper way to plant tomatoes?
Tomatoes perform best when grown in fertile, well-drained soils in full sun. Soil structure and drainage of
heavy, clay soils can be improved by incorporating organic matter, such as compost or peat, into the soil. Raised
beds are another option for gardeners with heavy, clay soils. Planting sites should receive at least six to eight
hours of direct sun daily.
If the plants are in peat pots, tear off the top edge or make sure the top edge is well below the soil surface
once planted. If the top edge of the peat pot is exposed to the air, it will act like a wick and draw moisture from the
soil around the plant’s roots. If the tomatoes are in plastic pots or cell-paks, carefully tap out the plants. Use a
sharp knife to cut around plants growing in small flats.
Set plants into the soil up to their first true leaves. Pinch off the bottom leaves of tall, lanky transplants and
lay them sideways in a trench. Carefully bend the stem upward so that the upper few inches of the stem are above
the soil surface. Roots will develop all along the buried stem.
Spacing of plants depends on the growth habit of the variety and training system employed. Indeterminate
varieties that are staked can be planted 1½ to 2 feet apart in the row. Indeterminate plants grown in wire cages
should be spaced 2½ to 3 feet apart, while a 3- to 4-foot-spacing would be appropriate for indeterminate tomatoes
allowed to sprawl over the ground. Determinate, ground-grown tomatoes can be planted two feet apart. Rows
should be spaced about four feet apart.
Yard and Garden: Planting a Tree
By RICHARD JAURON
What is the proper way to plant a balled and burlapped tree?
When planting a balled and burlapped tree, dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the diameter of the tree’s
rootball. The depth of the hole should be two or three inches less than the height of the rootball. Slope the sides of the
hole so the top of the hole is several inches wider than the bottom.
Grasping the tree’s rootball, carefully lower the tree into the hole. The top of the rootball should be approximately
two or three inches above the surrounding soil line. Make sure the trunk is straight. Then begin backfilling with the
original soil. Do not add compost, peat or other organic materials to the soil. Gently firm the backfill soil in the hole with
your hands.
When the planting hole is one-half full, cut and remove all twine. Also, cut away and remove the burlap on the top
one-third to one-half of the rootball. If the rootball is in a wire basket, remove the top one-third to one-half of the basket.
Completely fill the remainder of the hole with soil. Place soil up to the top of the rootball and gradually slope it down to
the surrounding soil line. Thoroughly water the tree.
Poorly drained sites are difficult locations for many trees. When selecting trees for these sites, choose trees that can
tolerate poorly drained conditions. In poorly drained soils, the depth of the planting hole should be approximately twothirds of the height of the rootball. When placed in the hole, the top one-third of the rootball should be above the
surrounding soil. Fill the hole with soil. Place soil to the top of the rootball and gradually slope it down to the
surrounding soil line.
What is the proper way to plant a container-grown tree?
When planting a container-grown tree, dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the diameter of the container.
The depth of the hole should be two or three inches less than the height of the soil ball. Slope the sides of the hole so
the top is several inches wider than the bottom. In poorly drained soils, the depth of the hole should be approximately
two-thirds the height of the soil ball.
Once the hole has been prepared, carefully lay the tree on its side. Tap the sides of the container to loosen the soil
ball from the container, and then slide the tree out of its container. All containers should be removed, even supposedly
plantable containers. If the sides of the soil ball are a mass of roots, carefully shave off the outer ½ to 1 inch of the soil
ball with a sharp spade or saw. Place the tree in the hole. The top of the soil ball should be approximately 2 or 3 inches
above the surrounding soil. In poorly drained sites, the top one-third of the soil ball should stick above the surrounding
soil.
Gradually fill the hole with soil. With each new addition of soil, firm it in place with your hands. Place soil to the top of
the soil ball and gradually slope it down to the surrounding soil. Once planted, water thoroughly.
Caring for newly planted trees
Should I fertilize a newly planted tree?
It is generally not necessary to fertilize newly planted trees. Most Iowa soils can supply sufficient amounts of
nutrients during establishment. If trees are growing poorly two or three years after planting, fertilization may be
beneficial. Poorly growing trees often exhibit sparse foliage, yellow-green leaves or short annual twig growth.
Should I stake a newly planted tree?
Staking is not required for most newly planted trees. However, large trees and those planted in windy, exposed
sites may require staking. If staking is necessary, allow the trunk to move or sway for proper trunk and root
development. To prevent damage to the trunk, use strong, wide strips of canvas, rubber or other materials to support
the tree. Remove the stakes as soon as possible. In most cases, stakes should be removed after one growing season.
How should I prune a newly planted tree?
Trees utilize sugars and other carbohydrates manufactured by the foliage for plant growth. Therefore, avoid the
temptation to severely prune newly planted trees. Severe pruning reduces the tree’s ability to manufacture food and
actually slows plant growth. Newly planted trees require only corrective pruning. Remove structural defects, such as
double leaders and dead, broken or crossing branches. Retain most of the lower branches to help stabilize the tree. The
lower branches also provide food for the growing tree. Gradually remove the lower limbs as the tree grows during the
next five to 10 years.
How often should I water a newly planted tree?
The key to watering newly planted balled and burlapped and container-grown trees is to keep the plant’s rootball
moist for several weeks after planting. Water newly planted trees every day for four or five days and then gradually
reduce the frequency of watering. When watering, slowly apply water to the rootball and the surrounding soil. A
thorough watering every seven to 14 days (in dry weather) should be sufficient four to five weeks after planting.
Continue this watering schedule through summer and into fall. Small trees usually require watering for one or two
growing seasons. It may be necessary to periodically water large trees for two or three years.
Yard and Garden: Forsythia
BY RICHARD JAURON
My forsythia shrubs are vigorous and healthy, but don’t bloom well. Why?
Forsythias bloom on old wood. Unfortunately, the flower buds on some varieties are not reliably
cold hardy in Iowa. For example, the flower buds on ‘Lynwood Gold’ and ‘Spring Glory’ are hardy to
minus 10 degrees Fahrenheit. Since most areas in Iowa experience winter temperatures below minus
10 F, these cultivars often don’t bloom well in the state.
Improper pruning is another possible cause. Flower buds on forsythias begin to develop by early
summer. Pruning the shrubs anytime from mid-summer until just prior to bloom will drastically reduce
flowering. To achieve the best floral display, forsythias should be pruned immediately after flowering.
What are some good forsythia varieties for Iowa?
When selecting a forsythia, choose a cultivar that reliably blooms in Iowa. The flower buds on
some varieties are not reliably cold hardy in Iowa. For example, ‘Lynwood Gold’ and ‘Spring Glory,’
typically don’t bloom well in Iowa as their flower buds are often killed by cold winter temperatures.
Forsythia varieties that grow well and bloom reliably in Iowa include ‘Meadowlark’ (bright yellow
flowers, grows 8 to 10 feet tall, has arching spreading form), ‘Northern Sun’ (medium yellow flowers,
grows 8 to 10 feet tall, has arching spreading form, University of Minnesota introduction), ‘Sunrise’
(medium yellow flowers, grows 5 to 6 feet tall, dense growth habit, an Iowa State University introduction),
and ‘Northern Gold’ (yellow gold flowers, grows 8 to 10 feet tall).
When is the best time to prune forsythias?
Since they bloom on old wood, forsythias should be pruned immediately after flowering. Pruning
the shrubs anytime from mid-summer until just prior to bloom will reduce flowering in spring. When
pruning mature forsythias, it’s best to remove one-fourth to one-third of the oldest (largest) stems at
ground level every other year. New shoots will emerge from the ground and bloom in following years.
Old, neglected forsythias can be rejuvenated by pruning them back to within 3 to 4 inches of the ground
in late winter or early spring. The shrubs will grow back quickly and should begin blooming again in one
or two years.
What would be a good planting site for forsythias?
Forsythias grow and bloom best in areas that receive at least six hours of direct sun. They will
grow in partial shade, but won’t bloom as heavily. Forsythias adapt to a wide range of soils. However,
they do not perform well in wet, poorly drained sites.
The forsythia is an excellent plant for mixed shrub borders. It can also be utilized as an informal
hedge. Low-growing cultivars can be used as groundcovers.
How do you propagate forsythias?
The forsythia is easily propagated from softwood cuttings. Softwood cuttings should be made from
the current season’s growth in late June or early July. Using a sharp knife, cut off 4 to 6 inch long shoots.
Pinch off the leaves on the lower half of the cutting. Dip the base (cut end) of the cuttings in a rootpromoting compound. Root the cuttings in a large pot or flat containing coarse sand or perlite. Insert the
bottom two inches of the cuttings into the rooting medium and firm the material around the base of each
cutting. After all the cuttings are inserted, water the medium and let it drain. Cover the container and
cuttings with a clear plastic bag or dome to reduce water loss. Then place the cuttings in bright light, but
not direct sunlight. Forsythia cuttings should root in six to eight weeks. When the cuttings have well
developed root systems, remove them from the rooting medium and transplant into individual pots using
a well-drained potting mix.
Dealing With Tree Damage After the Storm
BY RICHARD JAURON
AMES, Iowa — Stormy weather frequently damages trees throughout Iowa. In most cases, the
extent of tree damage isn't due to the luck of the draw.
According to Richard Jauron, Iowa State University Extension horticulturist, certain tree species
are much more susceptible to storm damage than others. For example, silver maple, Siberian elm, willow
and green ash are quite vulnerable to strong winds. Oaks, lindens and sugar maples are less susceptible
to storm damage. In addition to tree species, the age of the tree, its condition and maintenance history
also determine the extent of storm damage. Large, old trees with a structural weakness, such as some
trunk decay and those with narrow branch angles are particularly susceptible to damage. No tree species
can withstand the fury of a tornado.
Assessing storm-damaged trees
Carefully examine trees to determine the extent of damage. Give immediate attention to trees
that are hazards to people or property. If a power line is involved, utility company personnel are the only
ones who should be working in the area. After the elimination of hazardous situations, individual tree
care can be assessed.
Storm damage to a tree can vary from a few small broken limbs to complete destruction.
Severe damage to the main trunk often warrants removal of the tree. Trees that have sustained major
trunk damage are no longer structurally sound and may come down completely in the next storm. Trees
that have the majority of their crown destroyed are probably not salvageable.
Caring for storm-damaged trees
When pruning damaged trees, use correct pruning techniques to minimize the size of the
wound and avoid flush cuts. Remove stubs by pruning back to an undamaged side branch, main branch
or trunk. Generally, pruning paints are not necessary. However, wounds that occur on oaks between
March 1 and July 1 should be painted to reduce the potential transmission of the fungus responsible for
oak wilt. When painting pruning cuts on oak trees, use a latex house paint rather than asphalt or
creosote-based paints.
The pruning of large branches and damaged branches high in the tree canopy should be
left to trained arborists. Cabling and bracing may be appropriate if the cost involved can be justified.
Cabling and bracing do not save trees that have suffered extensive structural damage.
Tree removal and replacement
If tree removal and replacement ends up being your only alternative, Jauron recommends
selecting tree species and cultivars with a sturdy reputation. Excellent maple species include black and
sugar. Oak species for Iowa include white, swamp white, bur and red. Linden (both American and
littleleaf), American hophornbeam and ginkgo are other possibilities. Selection of a sturdy tree species
alone will not ensure a strong tree. Proper pruning when small is imperative.
ISU Extension publications contain additional information on caring for trees damaged during
storms:
Managing Storm-damaged Trees – Sustainable Urban Landscapes (SUL 6); Choosing an Arborist (RG
214); Pruning Trees: Shade, Flowering, and Conifer – Sustainable Urban Landscapes (SUL 5); and
Understanding the Effects of Flooding on Trees – Sustainable Urban Landscapes (SUL 1) can all be
downloaded from the ISU Extension online store.
Plant and Insect Diagnostic Clinic Update –
April 20, 2011
This article was published originally on 4/20/2011
The following are highlights and updates about samples and questions recently received in the Plant &
Insect Diagnostic Clinic:
Insects
We are getting samples of larder beetles. The larder beetle is a very common household pest
that lives in wall voids and attics most of the time, but is occasionally noticed inside. They are recognized
by their two-toned coloration: black on each end and tan in the middle.
Larder beetles start out as wormlike larvae that feed on dried meats, dried milk, hair, fur, feathers,
and commonly dead insects in wall voids and attics. They only feed on animal proteins so damage to
"regular" clothing is usually not an issue. But they will feed on furs, woolens and stuffed taxidermy
specimens.
Diseases
Conifer samples continue to be the most common. Spruce with Rhizosphaera needle cast and
Stigmina needle cast. Scots and Austrian pines with Diplodia tip blight and Austrian pines with
Dothistroma needle blight.
Conifers suffering form environmental stress are also common. Needles will be brown, but there
are no signs of disease or insects. A new publication from the Purdue Plant & Pest Diagnostic
Laboratory called Conifer Dieback does a great job of explaining the common environmental problems
that can cause brown needles on conifers.
Is there any turfgrass that grows well in shade?
A key to successfully growing grass in shady areas is to select the proper turfgrass species for the
site. Kentucky bluegrass is the most widely grown turfgrass in Iowa. However, most Kentucky bluegrass
varieties do not perform well in shady areas. The fine-leaf fescues (creeping red fescue, hard fescue,
chewings fescue, etc.) are the most shade tolerant of the cool-season turfgrasses. When attempting to
establish grass in a shady area, select a grass seed mix that contains a high percentage (75 percent or
more) of the fine-leaf fescues. Late summer (mid-August to early September) and April are the best
times to establish grass in shady areas.
Uncommon Produce for the Garden
Each spring gardeners plan out their vegetable gardens with tomatoes, onions, and peppers
predominating. There is good reason for that; few other crops are as useful and versatile in the kitchen.
However, if you are looking to add some diversity to your vegetable garden this year, here are five less
common choices that are very easy to grow in your garden. Plus, each of these crops can be planted
now.
Kale: The health experts tout this as one of the healthiest foods you can eat. The good news for
gardeners is kale is incredibly easy to grow. Sow seed directly in the ground as soon as the soil can be
tilled in the spring. Once the plants are established, leaves can be harvested for use. The mature plant is
cold hardy and will survive very low temperatures in the fall. In fact, it typically outlives all of the other
plants in the vegetable garden.
Parsnips: This surprisingly tasty and versatile root requires a long season to grow but can be kept in the
garden over the winter for storage. Direct seed parsnip any time after April 1st in Iowa for a fall or
following spring harvest.
Amaranth: As a grain crop with an ancient history, this incredibly fertile plant (hundreds of thousands of
seeds are produced on one plant) can yield a rewarding harvest. Two words of warning: it is closely
related to a common garden weed in Iowa, red root pigweed, and the seed has to be properly winnowed
to be useful in the kitchen.
Rutabaga: As a member of the Brassicaceae family (as is kale), this root crop has that distinctive
broccoli flavor. However, if roots are harvested early they are more tender and mild. Since the seed are
so small, plantings typically need to be thinned in early May.
Garlic scapes: While garlic is planted in the fall and not necessarily a unique crop, harvesting the
immature flower buds are not a common practice among most gardeners. Watch for the flower stalks to
emerge in early May. As soon as they begin to curl, but before the flowers open, they are ready for
harvest. Cut the stalk as close to the foliage as possible. They add a fresh garlic taste to cuisine.
Additional information for the more common vegetable crops in your garden can be found in the ISU
Extension publications PM 819, Planting a Home Vegetable Garden or PM 534, Planting and harvesting
times for garden vegetables.
Early Spring Vegetable Garden Actions
In just a few short weeks we will pass the frost-free date, May 10th, for most of Iowa. Then,
gardeners will finally be able to plant warm season vegetables. In the mean time, your cool
season crops can use maintenance.
The acclimation process can begin now for warm season crops that were started as seed
indoors. On nice days put the starts outdoors in a protected area for a few hours at a time then
bring them back in before evening. Avoid direct sun until the tender starts have acclimated to the
relatively more extreme conditions present outdoors. Plants that are 'hardened off' early can
withstand transplanting and other stresses more effectively.
Remember that it is good practice to rotate your vegetable garden every year. For
example, if tomatoes or their close relatives in the Solanaceae family are grown in the same
location for too long, they tend to build up disease and insect populations. At least a two or three
year rotation with other crops will prevent these harmful buildups because pests are typically
specific to either one or a few species within a plant family. However, exceptions apply for certain
generalist pests.
The benefit of diversity in rotation is only one reason to branch out to cool season
vegetables - they can also tolerate light frosts. Some examples of cool season vegetables, which
can be planted up to four weeks before the frost-free date, are broccoli, cabbage, lettuce, onions,
peas, potato, radish, rutabaga, spinach and turnip. For those cool season crops, it might be time
to thin the direct seeded varieties. Most gardeners tend to plant species with small seed at high
rates. In the image below, the rows of radishes, spinach and rutabaga need to be thinned.
Vegetables that are planted too densely do not yield well.
Now is the time to incorporate compost into your garden as well. Prepare the planting bed
for warm season crops by incorporating compost during tilling. Additionally, compost can be top
dressed in cool season vegetable beds.
How do I control weeds in my garden?
Cultivation, hand pulling, and mulches are the primary means to control weeds in the home garden.
Cultivation and hand pulling effectively control most annual weeds. Perennial weeds are often more
difficult to control. Repeated cultivation or the use of herbicides may be necessary to destroy some perennial
weeds. When cultivating the garden, avoid deep tillage. The roots of many vegetables, fruits, and flowers grow
near the soil surface. Deep cultivation will cut off some of these roots. Also, deep cultivation will bring deeply
buried weed seeds to the soil surface where they can germinate. Hoe or till around plants or between rows and
pull weeds close to plants. To effectively control weeds, cultivation and hand pulling must be done periodically
through the growing season. Small weeds are much easier to control than large weeds. It’s also important to
destroy the weeds before they have a chance to go to seed.
Mulches control weeds by preventing the germination of weed seeds. Established weeds should be
destroyed prior to the application of the mulch. In addition to weed control, mulches help conserve soil moisture,
reduce soil erosion, prevent crusting of the soil surface, keep fruits and vegetables clean and may reduce disease
problems.
Grass clippings, shredded leaves and weed-free straw are excellent mulches for vegetable gardens and
annual flower beds. Apply several inches of these materials in early June after the soil has warmed
sufficiently. Plant growth may be slowed if these materials are applied when soil temperatures are still cool in early
spring. Grass clippings, shredded leaves, and similar materials break down relatively quickly and can be tilled into
the soil in the fall.
Wood chips and shredded bark are excellent mulches for perennial beds and areas around trees and
shrubs. Apply 2 to 4 inches of material around landscape plantings. These materials decay slowly and should last
several years. However, it will be necessary to apply additional material periodically to retain the desired depth.
Herbicides can be used to supplement cultivation, hand pulling, and mulches.
Upcoming Items and Events:
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May 30
County Youth Council Meeting—2:00 p.m.—Extension Office
4-H 22 Rifle Practices—2:00 p.m.—Phil Olson’s place
4-H Shotgun Practice—3:00 p.m.—Phil Olson’s place
4-H Muzzleloader Practice—4:00 p.m.—David Olson’s place
Rural Commerce Committee Meeting—Extension Office—12:00 noon
Horse practice—6:00 p.m.—Horse arena
4-H Archery—5:30 p.m.—Fairgrounds
Dog practice at 6:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m.
Montgomery County Interagency Meeting—8:30 a.m.—Extension Office
Goat weigh-in—11:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m.--Fairgrounds
Sheep weigh-in—1:00 p.m. to 2:00 p.m.--Fairgrounds
Extension Council Meeting—5:30 p.m.—Extension Office
Horse practice—6:00 p.m.—Horse arena
4-H Air Rifle—5:30 p.m.—Goldsmith Gallery
Dog Practice at 6:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m.
Last Day for Enrollment changes
Breeding beef, bucket calf, Horse, dog, Dairy, breeding sheep, and breeding goats
ID sheets due in Extension Office
4-H’ers for 4-H Campaign money due in Extension Office
Horse practice—6:00 p.m.—Horse arena
Iowa Day for Red Oak 4th graders—History Center
FSQA training—4:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.—Extension Office
4-H & Youth Committee Meeting—7:00 p.m.—Extension Office
Dog Practice at 6:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m.
Fairboard Meeting—8:00 p.m.—Fairgrounds Auditorium
Horse practice—6:00 p.m.—Horse arena
FSQA testing—3:30 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.—Extension Office
Master Gardener Webinar—6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m.—Extension Office
Horse practice—6:00 p.m.—Horse arena
Montgomery County 4-H Clover Kids—5:00 p.m.—Extension Office
Horse practice—6:00 p.m.—Horse arena
Dog Practice at 6:00 p.m. and 7:00 p.m.
Office closed
Montgomery County Extension Office
400 Bridge Street, Suite 2
Red Oak, IA 51566
Return Service Requested