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Cosmetics Challenge
Medical Grade Mineral Cosmetics:
Their Benefits and Role in Patient Care
Savvy mass-marketers appeal to patients´ desires for "natural" skincare by incorporating minerals into
conventional cosmetics, but true mineral make-up can offer benefits for dermatology patients.
By Hema Sundaram, MD
I
n recent years, there has been a dramatic rise in
the popularity of topically applied products that
are labeled as being “mineral.” This may be considered a manifestation of a larger trend: the tendency of consumers, especially those who fall within
the Baby Boomer and Generation X age demographic,
to make lifestyle choices that they perceive as being
“natural” or “healthy.” Over the past decade, make-up
that is described as “mineral” has become the fastest
growing sector in the multi-billion dollar facial cosmetics market. “Mineral” make-up has been cited as
the biggest growth driver of that market,1 with a tenfold greater projected growth (30 percent) than that
predicted for the whole genre of color cosmetics
(three percent). A casual walk through a local department store or drug store provides strong corroborating evidence for these statistics, in a plethora of
make-up products poised to capitalize on the demand
by including the word “mineral” somewhere in their
labeling or their accompanying signage. However,
although many of these products contain one or a few
mineral ingredients, they frequently also contain
ingredients, such as talc, dyes, fragrances and preservatives, that were eschewed by the original formulators
of mineral cosmetics. Claims that these products are a
healthier or more natural alternative to conventional
make-up are rather analogous to the positioning of
“clear” sodas as a wholesome substitute for traditional
carbonated drinks.
Given that the majority of female patients who
consult us use at least some type of make-up, it is
perhaps not surprising that many of them seek our
advice in this regard. Even those who do not
50 | Practical Dermatology
| September 2010
inquire directly may benefit from the recommendation of medically appropriate make-up; in the
absence of physician instruction, they may resort
instead to the use of products that are comedogenic,
allergenic, or otherwise detrimental to skin health.
Such products may actually counteract the beneficial effects of the therapy we have prescribed or the
procedures we have performed. In my practice, I
have found the use of medical grade mineral cosmetics by my patients to be of benefit by decreasing
down time after aesthetic procedures and promoting
compliance with sun protection.
Decreasing Down Time
The definition of what constitutes down time varies
from patient to patient. Some may be relatively sanguine about temporary ecchymosis or erythema
after a minimally invasive “lunch time” procedure,
such as injection of a neurotoxin or filler or treatment with a nonablative fractional laser. However,
for most, the expectation is that they will be able to
return to normal activities immediately without
social embarrassment. Patients may opt to postpone
procedures that they desire due to concerns about
down time, or, worse, they may be dissatisfied with
a procedure that has been highly successful from a
technical point of view because their expectations
have not been fulfilled in regards to down time. It is
difficult for patients to visualize the end result of a
procedure in this situation. Patients tend to perceive
a procedure as more successful when the wounds,
however transient, are covered effectively. They
may even receive a psychological boost when the
Photos courtesy of Hema Sundaram, MD
Cosmetics Challenge
Fig. 1
Fig. 2
Fig. 3
Fig. 1: Patient before treatment. Fig. 2. Immediately After HA fillers (Perlane
and Restylane, Medicis); Before mineral make-up. Fig. 3. Patient immediately after HA fillers; After mineral makeup (Colorescience Pressed Mineral
Foundation). Fig. 4. Day 3 after fractional ablative CO2 laser resurfacing
(Fraxel re:pair). Mineral make-up (ColoreScience Pressed Mineral Make-Up
and Lip Polish) applied to left half of face.
visible signs of pain or skin irritation are reduced.
As clinicians, our challenge is to provide these
patients with a means of camouflaging the aftermath
of a procedure without sabotaging its ultimate outFig. 1
Fig. 3
come. A medical-grade mineral powder foundation
can be applied immediately after an injectable (Figs.
1-3) or nonablative fractional laser procedure (Fig. 4)
or once epithelialization has occurred following
treatment with a more ablative laser procedure. The
absence of the carriers, emollients and fragrances
Fig. 4
Know Your Minerals: Five Key Ingredients in Medical Grade Mineral Make-Up
Bismuth Oxychloride: A salt derived from the mineral bismuth that
contains jagged particles in its natural form. Pharmaceutical grade
bismuth oxychloride, which is preferable for cosmetics, is a soft,
dense micronized powder that is non-irritating to skin based on
repeat insult patch testing. It imparts a pearlescent appearance to
cosmetics, serves as a whitening and brightening agent, and provides a smooth texture. It enhances make-up durability due to its
hydrophobicity and affinity for the skin surface.
Octyl Hydroxystearate Benzoate (Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate
Benzoate): A vegetable-based emollient ester1 derived from octyl
hydroxystearate and benzoic acid2 often blended with silicones in
cosmetics. It serves as a sheer skin-conditioning agent; as a dispersing agent to suspend inorganic sunscreen actives, such as zinc oxide
and titanium dioxide; and to suspend mineral coloring agents in cosmetic formulations. It also has light-reflective properties.
Titanium Dioxide : TO2 occurs naturally in two main forms: rutile and
anatase. For cosmetic use, it is purified and usually micronized. It
serves as a white pigment, an opacifier and a physical (non-chemical) UVA/UVB sunscreen.
Vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer: A silicone derivative produced by
cross-linking silicone polymers to form a dimethicone chain, it is
used in cosmetics for its ability to provide lubrication without a
greasy feel and as an alternative to talc to absorb skin sebum. A
recent study also demonstrated immediate wrinkle-masking effects
in vivo.3
Zinc Oxide: Often used in combination with titanium dioxide as a
white pigment, it is an opacifier and a physical UVA/UVB sunscreen.
1. www.skin-beauty.com
2. www.cosmeticsdatabase.com
3. http://www.dowcorning.com/content/publishedlit/27_1237_01.pdf
September 2010 |
Practical Dermatology | 51
Cosmetics Challenge
Fig. 5. Acne; Before mineral make-up. Fig. 6. Acne; After
mineral make-up (Colorescience Pressed Mineral
Foundation) and broad spectrum mineral sunscreen
carrying the Skin Cancer Foundation’s Seal of
Recommendation (Colorescience Sunforgettable SPF 30
brush).
found in conventional make-up renders mineral cosmetics less irritating
to fragile post-procedure skin.
Sun Protection
A number of the ingredients used in Fig. 5
mineral cosmetics provide broad-spectrum protection
against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Those that provide
high levels of UV protection can be utilized as physical sunblocks to protect skin during the healing
process after a procedure. This can reduce the duration of post-procedural erythema and may also
decrease the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, especially in patients of color. Patients with
acne or rosacea who have been prescribed photosensitizing medications such as oral tetracyclines or topical retinoids may also benefit from non-comedogenic,
hypoallergenic mineral cosmetics that provide both
sun protection and camouflage. Recent studies suggest that titanium dioxide, a primary mineral sunscreen active, may also act as a catalyst or photocatalyst to provide antimicrobial activity.3 For patients
with acne excoriée, “covering the wounds” with a protective layer of non-comedogenic make-up may make
them less likely to traumatize their lesions (Figs. 5,6).
I have found that the recommendation of mineral
sunscreen tends to promote compliance with sun protection since these products are in the form of lightweight powders that are easily portable. They can be
carried onto the sports field and also onto airplanes
since they are non-liquid, and can be re-applied
quickly either over or under make-up. An additional
benefit of certain mineral sunscreens is that they are
very water resistant as defined by current FDA standards. ■
1. Alexander, A. Mineral Makeup Intros Soar in ’08. Drug Store News. January 14, 2008,
www.drugstorenews.com.
2. Davies B. Color Cosmetics: A Comeback Story. Global Cosmetics Industry/GCI.
November 2007, www.gcimagazine.com.
3. Erkan A, Bakir U, Karakas G. Photocatalytic microbial inactivation over Pd doped
SnO2 and TiO2 thin films. J Photochem Photobiol 2006. 184(3):313-321.
Fig. 6
Advertising Index September 2010
Advertiser . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Page
Allergan,Inc.
www.allergan.com/site/skin
Aczone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7-8
Astellas Pharma
www.astellas.com . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Centocor Ortho Bio Tech
www.centocor.com
Stelara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19-23
Coria Laboratories
www.corialabs.com
Atralin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2-3
Cloderm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39-40
Refissa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33-34
Cosmetic Surgery Forum
www.cosmeticsurgeryforum.com/. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Galderma
www.galdermausa.com
Psoriasis Pro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
Intendis/Beyer Group
www.intendis.com
Desonate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15-16
Ortho Dermatologics
www.orthodermatologics.com
Renova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11-12
Retin-A Micro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Revision Skin Care
www.nectifirm.com
Nectifirm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25
Stiefel a GSK Company
www.stiefel.com
Altabax . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29-30
Duac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55-56
Society of Aesthetic Injectors
www.socaestheticinjectors.org . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
For advertising inquiries please contact :
Alan Guralnick, Group Publisher
[email protected] • 484-581-1832
Ali Kinnie, Publisher
[email protected] • 917-589-4160