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Circadia By Peter T. Pugliese, MD Our founder, Peter T. Pugliese, MD has been the undisputed pioneer of cosmetic research, formulation and education in the field of skin health. He has spent more than 50 years dedicating his life to research and science. His research in the field of anti-aging and skin physiology has given him numerous awards, patents and discoveries which have influenced the course of professional skin care around the globe. Dr. Pugliese has contributed chapters to over a dozen books and published over 60 scientific papers. He has authored four books, including, in 1990, the first textbook written for estheticians by a physician, Advanced Professional Skin Care, to bridge esthetics and medicine with a common language. His newest publication is Advanced Professional Skin Care – Medical Edition. Everything that is relevant to the educational and professional roles of estheticians is covered in great detail in this book. Dr. Pugliese teaches advanced courses for the skin care professional in skin physiology, histology, biochemistry, cosmetic chemistry and medical esthetics. His goal is to elevate the practice of esthetics to the status of a profession through higher standards of education in the United States. The Circadia skin care line is the culmination of all his hard work and research in skin and aging. Circadia is his proven formula for skin health! Circadia translated means “circa dies” or around the day. Circadian rhythms are life’s 24 hour cycles caused by the earth’s rotation around the sun. Circadia products were designed to work in harmony with the body’s day and night cycles to provide optimum results for skin health. last (third)quarter waning Moon moon orbit`s earth SUN gibbous moon crescent earth full moon new moon gibbous moon crescent waxing Moon first q uarter As the skincare professional, you must accomplish a number of tasks in order to establish a program of skin health for your client/patient. 1. First and foremost, and we can not stress this enough, learn your product line inside and out! Your success will depend on it. You have made the decision to carry a result-oriented skin care line which means you are serious about your career in skin care. Educate yourself as much as possible on your product ingredients, what, how, and why they benefit the skin. There is no single ingredient or machine that will alleviate all signs of aging. Develop a relationship with your client based on trust. If the client trusts you to give them honest answers regarding trends, popular treatments, or ingredients they will come to you before they invest in something advertised as the latest and greatest at the office down the street. Dr. Pugliese and staff and here to help you and your business become as profitable as possible. You can depend on Dr. Pugliese to give honest answers to your questions based on research and proven scientific studies. 2. Explain the products and introduce the concept of Circadia to your client. Take a few minutes to explain the circadian rhythms and how it is only natural to pattern your skin care around the body’s own repair cycle. Stress the importance of proper sun protection during the day, without it all your hard work, the time, and money spent will be wasted. 3. Evaluate the skin, document all findings, and go over the client consultation form. This is very important not only for the client’s safety but your safety as well. Positive results depend on thorough and proper skin evaluation. If any problems occur, you have everything documented and dated. Double check all health problems and allergies before coming up with a treatment program or home care program. A health evaluation form is completed during the first visit. It is helpful to recommend that the client show up 15 minutes prior to their scheduled appointment. Begin to visually evaluate your client immediately. o o o o o o Did the skin look flushed when they walked in? Does it have deep nasal labial folds or creases? Does it appear pigmented? Does the neck area lack tone? How did the makeup look? Is the eye area dry, have dark circles, or show tightness and wrinkles? When the skin is thoroughly cleansed and free of all makeup, carefully evaluate under the magnifying light and Wood’s Light. As you examine the skin, document all findings and make notes of exact locations and sizes of all blemishes and marks. THE WOODS LIGHT A Wood’s light must be used in a very dark room. Remove all topical products on the client’s face, i.e., salicylates, petrolatum, mineral oil and certain antibiotics such as tetracycline since they will produce a strong fluorescence. What you see What it means White Fluorescent Thick stratum corneum White Spots Dead cells Blue/White Fluorescent Normal, Healthy Skin Purple Fluorescent Dehydrated skin Yellow or Pink Fluorescent Oil area, blackheads (bacterial products) Brown Pigmentation & dark spots The Wood’s light has been used for many years to diagnose fungal infections of the skin, along with some other diseases. We shall look at just a few of these conditions because they help you to refer clients who may require medical help. Tinea capitis Known as ringworm of the scalp, it is cause by several organisms Microsporum audouini and Mirosporum canis. They have a green fluorescence on the hairs everywhere the fungus is present. The absence of fluorescence, however, does not rule out this infection. Erythrasma This is an infectious disease of the skin caused by a bacterium in the diphtheroid group. It produces a porphyrin pigment that has a coral pink fluorescence. The lesions are flat, scaly pink or brown color and sometimes white. Acne Acne appears as coral to red fluorescence around the nose if there are certain bacteria present that produce porphryins. Under the Wood’s light, the areas are seen as bright red dots scattered over the skin. This bacterium is known as Propionibacterium acnes (also known as “P-acnes”). Another skin bacterium not associated with acne is Pseudomonas pyocyanea that have a yellowish-green fluorescence. Tinea versicolor Also known as Pityriasis versicolor, this condition is caused by a fungus that goes by various names. Malessezia furfur is one that is accepted by most dermatologists. Under the Wood’s light, it will fluoresce a yellow color, which distinguishes it from Erythrasma. Pigmentation Pigmentation shows up dark against the blue background of the Wood’s light. Pigment that becomes more intense is epidermal in origin. This is the most common pigment that you will see. Freckles normally are in the epidermis. Pigmentation that is visually noticed and than becomes less under the Wood’s light is most likely dermal oriented pigment. Dermal-oriented pigment should be referred to a dermatologist. Melasma Melasma is a discoloration of the skin associated with pregnancy, birth control pills and other causes. It is easily viewed under the Wood’s Light. When properly treated you can measure the effectiveness of your treatment can be measured with the use of the Wood’s Light. Photodamage Characterized by large amount of pigment changes, hyperpigmentation is the most common finding with excess sun exposure and skin damage. Note small changes in the vertical lines about the mouth and horizontal lines around the eyes. At first these changes may not be obvious; however, if you examine them closely, they are noticeable, particularly in Skin Type I and Type II. THE pH SCALE pH is an acronym for the power, or potential of hydrogen. The power of hydrogen indicates the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. This is measured in units called logarithms, using a scale called the pH scale. This scale runs from pH 0 to pH 14. A highly acidic solution will have a lower pH number. Highly alkaline solutions are high on the scale. The human body’s entire system depends upon maintaining a pH balance, which promotes general health. The epidermis is responsible for keeping out substances that can be harmful to the body. The body’s acid mantle has a slightly acidic pH of 4.5-5.5, this wards off harmful bacteria and prevents its growth on the skin. Keeping a healthy stratum corneum is the key to successful skin care. To ensure a healtlhy, balanced protective barrier, educate your clients on the dangers of harsh exfoliants, drying cleansers, too many products, etc. Measuring the pH is easy to do by using a pH pencil. Utilizing a pH pencil as a tool allows you to educate your clients on the importance of a pH balanced product as well as the pH of their skin. Many clients who have overused aggressive products are hard to convince that they do not need to “scrub” or constantly dry out their skin. A compromised lipid barrier will not be in the normal pH range of 4.5 to 6.0, it will be more alkaline. 4. Educate and involve the client in the development of the routine you will be prescribing. Involving the client will insure that they are in agreement with your recommendations in regard to money and time involved. They are more likely to follow through and commit to a program and treatment that they were a part of putting together rather than told what to do and pressured to buy products that they do not know how to use. (or why they are using them) It is a partnership and needs both sides cooperating to have positive results. 5. Emphasize the need to follow instructions faithfully. 100% cooperation is needed for positive results. Stress the importance of sun protection at all times. Let them know it takes time and patience to repair and change the skin. Have them commit to “at least a few months” before they evaluate the results. If possible, take before and after pictures, many times, results are gradual and aren’t seen as major improvements until the client sees the “before” pictures. 6. If the client has over-used aggressive products, such as glycolic acid or retinoids, they will need to transition away from these products and allow the skin to recover before beginning any vitamin A products, Swich treatments, and peels. Generally, 2 weeks is sufficient time to allow the skin to rebuild a depleted lipid barrier. The skin accepts new products with ease after a period of “rest.” At this point, introduce the basic products for two weeks, and then incorporate the repair or corrective products. 7. Keep in mind that you are “prescribing” a program for skin health. If it is presented as a health matter as well as a cosmetic improvement, the client will understand the importance of the routine and are likely to purchase what you suggest and use it appropriately. “Exfoliating too aggressively or too frequently will expose immature cells to an environment they are not ready to handle.” Peter T. Pugliese, MD The Products Circadia offers both back bar products for professional use and smaller retail size products. The professional products are not packaged for resale although some of our estheticians like to sell some of the professional sizes when appropriate. Keep in mind that it is very unlikely that a single client could use the larger size fast enough that the product would not lose potency or spoil. An exception would be if they purchase a product for use on the body as well as the face. Cleanse Vitamin Veil Cleanser Lipid Replacing Cleansing Gel Cleansing Gel with Salicylic Acid Protect Light Day Cream SPF 15 Light Day Cream SPF 30 Vitamin C Reversal Serum White Veil Lightener Moisture on Demand Hydrating Cream Repair Rosacea Rx Cream Circadia Night Repair Cream Circadia Plus Night Repair Cream Vitamin A Rx Cream Myo Rx Acne Care Daytime Control Night Control Spot Stop Specialties Vitage Anti Cellulite Gel PherAdore Red & Green Tea Masks Emergency Eye Lift Full Circle Eye Repair CLEANSE All Circadia cleansers are formulated to be complete and effective without depleting the lipid barrier. When recommending a cleanser, keep in mind that not everyone can use the same cleanser all the time. Skin conditions, environment, and general aging all play a role in the changing needs of the skin. You will see that Circadia does not sell toners. A well formulated cleanser will leave the skin clean, balanced and ready for nourishing serums and creams without the need for a toner. Vitamin Veil Cleanser pH 4.5 The Vitamin Veil Cleanser is formulated to gently cleanse make-up, dirt, and debris without breaking the skin barrier or denaturing the keratin. Vitamin Veil is excellent for aging, dry, sensitive, and mature skin. It leaves a thin veil of antioxidants on the skin which aids in the penetration of any subsequent products by conditioning the cell matrix. A soothing and comfortable cleanser for use during chemotherapy. Contains: Soybean oil – emollient and emulsifying. Processed with heat to manifest several components not normally active in soybean oil. Vitamin E acetate- Ester form of vitamin E, an antioxidant OPC: Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins- a special complex with highly anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. Home Use: Use in the evening to cleanse and remove make-up. Apply cleanser to the face and work around in small circular movements. Remove with warm washcloth. Retail Size- 8 oz. Professional Use: Apply to cotton esthetic pad and remove eye make-up. Use for cleansing post- surgery and post- laser. Gently cleanses scars and healing skin without irritation. Professional Size- 16 oz. Lipid Replacing Cleansing Gel pH 6.9 Lipid Cleansing Gel is a non-irritating low foaming clear gel cleanser with a slightly acid pH. It gently and effectively removes dirt, debris, and lipids without breaking the skin barrier. Leaves skin soft and non-irritated. Contains: Phospholipid EFA- an essential fatty acid that will restore any fatty acids removed during the cleansing process. Linolieic Esters- anti-inflammatory and analgesic Panthenol (provitamin B5)- regenerative and soothing Allantoin- anti-irritant, repairs Home Use: Apply a small amount to fingertips and cleanse in circular motion adding more water when needed. Rinse thoroughly. Retail Size- 8 oz. Professional Use: Excellent backbar product. Safely and thoroughly cleanses prior to chemical peels, microdermabrasion, or enzyme treatments. Professional Size – 16 oz. Cleansing Gel with Salicylic Acid pH 4.0 This Salicylic Acid cleansing gel is a clear foamy cleanser with antiseptic action. It will help reduce sebum, deep cleans, and loosens keratin plugs in the sebaceous follicle. Contains: 2% Salicylic Acid- a beta-hydroxy acid with keratoylic and germicidal affects. Linoleic esters – anti-inflammatory and analgesic Home Use: Avoid eye area. Gently cleanse in circular motion adding water to lather. Rinse thoroughly. Repeat if necessary. Educate client on proper use. If dryness occurs alternate use with the Lipid Replacing Cleansing Gel or use Salicylic Cleanser in the evening and Lipid Cleanser in the morning. Retail Size- 8 oz. Professional Size- 16 oz. PROTECT Protection from environmental assaults as well as moisture loss is extremely important for maintaining healthy skin. Everyone should know the importance of proper sun protection and also the benefits of using vitamin C on a regular basis. Vitamin C will not act as a sun block or sun screen but it will reduce the inflammatory response caused by the UV rays. This will help to reduce free radical activity. Light Day Cream SPF 30 and SPF 15 pH 6.3 The Light Day Cream is a velvety blend of perfectly balanced ingredients formulated to be brightening, hydrating, anti-aging and protective. This medium weight lotion is easy to use and leaves the skin feeling clean not smothered. It contains a time-released delivery system of targeted ingredients. Excellent for use after peels, microdermabrasion, and waxing. Feature Ingredients Octyl Methoxycinnamate----UVB screen Octyl Salicylate--UVB screen Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane --UVA screen (Parsol 1789) Titanium Dioxide-- UVA/B screen Linoleic Esters (patented Hepes complex)--Anti-inflammatory, analgesic Glycerin--Emollient, humectant Avena sativa (Oat protein)--Powerful antioxidant, anti-irritant Ascorbyl palmitate--Antioxidant Allantoin--Soothing, anti-irritant Lentinula edodes (Shitake Mushroom)--Immune booster Home Use: Apply as a morning moisturizer and sunscreen on clean skin before make-up. Retail Size- 2 oz. Professional Use: Apply at the end of any facial treatment. Professional Size- 8 oz. Vitamin C Reversal Serum pH 7.8 This clear serum is a biologically active form of vitamin C that inhibits the breakdown of collagen. It helps restore firmness to the skin and soften fine lines. Feature Ingredients Sodium Hyaluronate--Binds moisture and soothes Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (Vitamin C)--Antioxidant, firming, smoothing Panthenol (Provitamin B5)--Regenerative, soothing Theophylline--Firming *Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate must be in a non-acid medium to be stable. It is converted to natural acid vitamin C in the skin. Home Use: Apply two to three drops to the face and neck after cleansing morning and/or night. Safe for use around the eye area. Retail Size- .5% glass dropper bottle Professional Use: Apply at the end of a facial prior to moisturizer or use under a mask after exfoliating. Professional Size- 1 oz. Plastic bottle White Veil Lightener pH 3.5 The White Veil Lightener is a light lotion with ingredients that inhibit the production of tyrosinase. It contains no hydroquinone or acids. Safe and gentle, it can be used as the morning moisturizer under the sunscreen. Feature Ingredients: Oat protein (Avena sativa)--Powerful antioxidant, anti-irritant Niacinamide--Tyrosinase inhibitor Arbutin -- Tyrosinase inhibitor Oat protein (Avena sativa)--Powerful antioxidant, anti-irritant OPC: Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins-- Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, protease inhibitor Vitamin C--Regenerative, antioxidant, lightening Tocopherol (Vitamin E)—antioxidant, regenerative Home Use: Apply to the entire face prior to sunscreen. May be used as a spot treatment on pigmented areas. When using in conjunction with a series of resurfacing facials, recommend use morning and night and begin two weeks prior to treatment. Continue during treatments and use as a maintenance product after pigment is corrected. Use sunscreen at all times. Retail Size- 2 fl. Oz. Professional Use: Apply to the face after facial and before sunscreen. Moisture on Demand pH 6.3 This product acts as a moisture booster and protector from transepidermal water loss. It is a lightweight formula that provides extra hydration when needed as it will adjust to climatic conditions. Excellent for winter sports enthusiasts, frequent air travelers, or mature thinning skin. Feature Ingredients Phospholipids-sphingolipids--Moisturizing, emollient Jojoba (Buxus chinensis) oil--Emollient, lubricating Oat protein (Avena sativa)--Emollient, regenerative Panthenol (Provitamin B5)--Regenerative, soothing Linoleic Esters (patented Hepes complex)--Anti-inflammatory, analgesic Chitosan Lactate--Anti-inflammatant OPC-: Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins--Special complex highly anti-inflammatory, antioxidants, protease inhibitors Vitamin E--Regenerative, antioxidant Home Use: Apply as a moisture boost under moisturizer. Massage a few drops into the skin and around eye area until penetrated. Retail Size- .5 oz. Bottle Professional Use: Apply at the end of a facial prior to moisturizer or under mask treatment as a moisture boost for dehydrated skin. A few drops can be added to the hydrating cream before application. Professional Size – 1 oz. Plastic bottle REPAIR Applying night repair products between the hours of 9 and 11 PM will give the optimum results. It is important to work with the body’s natural repair cycle and give the skin what it needs to fuel this repair process. Circadia Night Repair, Night Repair Plus, and Vitamin A Rx Cream are all vitamin A products. We offer the three different strengths of retinol so that the skin care professional can treat all skin types and conditions with minimal side effects and optimal results. Circadia Night Time Repair Cream pH 6.0 Formulated for skin under 35 years or very sensitive skin, this rich cream contains a metabolic stimulating complex that works with the skin’s natural night time repair cycle. This is a .03% retinol product. Night Repair increases cell turnover, rejuvenates skin cells, increases skin strength. Feature Ingredients: Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba Oil--Emollient, moisturizing Avena sativa (Oat Protein)--Powerful antioxidant, anti-irritant Phospholipids & Sphingolipids--Helps restore barrier function OPC: Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins--Special complex highly anti-inflammatory, antioxidants, protease inhibitors Linoleic Ester (patented Hepes complex)--Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-irritant Retinol (vitamin A)--Regenerative, reparative Tocopherol (vitamin E Acetate)-Antioxidant, moisturizing Vitamin A--Regenerative, antioxidant Home Use: Use at night between 9PM and midnight. immediate eye area. Apply product to the face and neck, avoid Retail Size- 2 oz. Professional Use: Apply at the end of a facial. Professional Size- 4 oz. Circadia Plus Night Time Repair Cream pH 6.0 A time released delivery system allows for maximum delivery of the anti-aging ingredients. A rejuvenating night repair cream formulated for age 35 years and beyond. This rich, velvety cream contains a metabolic stimulating complex that works with the skin’s natural night time repair cycle. Night Repair Plus will increase cell turnover, rejuvenate skin cells, increase the skin’s strength and elasticity by activating the natural repair system. It will improve texture and enhance the skin’s radiance. Feature Ingredients Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba Oil) --Emollient, moisturizing Avena sativa (Oat Protein)--Powerful antioxidant, anti-irritant Lipoic Acid- -Essential for glucose and fat metabolic processes; regenerative OPC: Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins--Anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, protease inhibitor Linoleic Ester (patented Hepes complex)--Anti-inflammatory, analgesic, protease Inhibitor Retinol (vitamin A)--Regenerative, reparative, structural support Tocopherol (vitamin E acetate)-Antioxidant, regenerative Ascorbyl Palmitate (vitamin C)--Stabilizes E, antioxidant Polypeptide 5--Moisturizing Beta glucan--Immune stimulant, activates natural repair system Home Use: Use at night between 9PM and midnight. immediate eye area. Retail Size- 2 oz. Professional Use: Apply at the end of a facial. Professional Size- 4 oz. Apply product to the face and neck, avoid Vitamin A Rx Cream pH 5.5 This powerful night time repair cream is formulated to maximize the effects of vitamin A while minimizing the unwanted side effects. Used as a treatment night cream for a limited amount of time, it will work to soften fine lines, minimize wrinkles, firm lax skin, improve skin texture, and lighten discolorations. This is a powerful repair cream that can be used to condition the skin prior to surgery, repair sun damage and work to rebuild the skin. Directions for use: To be used under the supervision of a skin care professional only. After using appropriate cleanser, apply to entire face every night for 3 consecutive nights between 9 and 11 PM. Let the skin rest for 4 nights, using the Hydrating Cream in place of the Vitamin A Rx Cream. Continue 3 nights on and 4 nights off the vitamin A cream for 6 weeks. Re-evaluate the skin at this point. Note: Do not use if erythema is present. Discontinue use if irritation occurs. The goal is to use this product consistently for 5 nights without signs of dryness or irritation. Increase the number of nights as the skin can tolerate. This cream contains 1% retinol which is equivalent to 0.1% tretinoin. (Retin-A) Contraindications: Sensitive skin Rosacea Dry and/or Dehydrated skin Pregnant or nursing Anyone using the following: Retin-A Renova Accutane Glycolic Acids Retail Size: 2 oz jar Rosacea Rx Cream pH 7.3 Rosacea Rx Cream is a lightweight cream that contains calming and antimicrobial properties. It is anti-inflammatory, healing and contains powerful botanicals to help kill the Demodex mite, support skin barrier function, and moisture retention. Feature Ingredients Linoleic Esters (patented Hepes complex)--Anti-inflammatory, analgesic, protease Inhibitor Oenothera biennis (Evening Primrose)--Gamma linoleic acid supports skin barrier function, hydrating, antiinflammatory Rosemary (Rosmarinus chinensis)--Antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory Home Use: Apply morning and night on clean skin. apply only at night. If dryness occurs discontinue morning use and Professional Use: Can be used at the end of a facial as the moisturizer before applying sunblock. The Rosacea Rx Cream is generally used as a maintenance home care product during and after a series of professional treatments. Rosacea Rx Serum is recommended as the professional treatment for helping to control rosacea. When using the rosacea serum as a treatment it is not necessary to apply the Rosacea Rx Cream. For complete instructions on rosacea care refer to the treatment section of the manual. Retail Size: 2 oz jar Myo Rx pH 7.0 MyoRx is a unique skin care product formulated to restore skin collagen and to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. It contains two new polypeptides, a hexapeptide, and a pentapeptide. They have been found to inhibit certain wrinkle inducing compounds in the skin and to stimulate regeneration of collagen and elastin. These ingredients combined promote smoother, younger looking skin almost instantly. Feature Ingredients: Acetyl Hexapeptide- six amino acids that inhibit the formation of biochemicals that can cause tissue alterations that result in wrinkle formation. The biochemical action of acetyl hexapeptide is very complex but essentially it inhibits one of the pathways that is responsible for tissue changes that result in wrinkle formation. The other action suppresses the formation of a group of chemicals called catecholamines which have an adverse effect on collagen synthesis. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide- five amino acids and palmitic acid. It is capable of stimulating collagen synthesis as well as having a positive effect on the synthesis of elastin and glycosaminoglycans. The action is very similar to retinol without the irritation. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3- a repair type polypeptide that functions as a second messenger which activates the protein system in the extra cellular matrix to repair damaged tissues and to synthesize new macromolecules. In the extracellular matrix, collagen, elastin, and the glycosaminoglycans make up the bulk of the macromolecules. Hyaluronic Acid- a natural moisturizer and lubricant that hydrates the skin and immediately smoothes it. The other ingredients work quickly to rebuild the collagen and restore the tone and beauty of the skin. Passion Flower Extract- three powerful muscle relaxants that are effective in smoothing wrinkled skin. It also acts as an anti-inflammatory agent and as an antioxidant. It is synergistic with the other ingredients to relax and tone the skin. L-Proline- an essential amino acid that is required for collagen cross linking to make the fully developed collagen fibers. L-Serine- an essential amino acid required for the polypeptide chains in collagen. Home Use: One to three times per day. Massage one drop of serum into the skin on areas prone to wrinkling. Do not apply to upper eye lid area. Follow with moisturizer or sun block. Professional Use: Apply at the end of a facial before moisturizer or sunblock. Can be massaged into the skin before mask application. The Hyaluronic acid immediately improves the appearance of dry, thinning, and mature skin. One Size - .5 oz. HYDRATING CREAM pH 5.5 A nourishing, light hydrating cream with powerful antioxidants and regenerative ingredients that penetrates immediately leaving the skin hydrated without an oily feel. o o o Contains natural oils for their emollient, regenerative and soothing properties. Boosts moisture, protecting from transepidermal water loss (TEWL) Contains special collagenase inhibitors and collagen metabolic stimulators. Feature Ingredients: Avocado Oil (Persea gratissima) -Softening and soothes Olive (Olea Europoea) Oil- Emollient, anti-bacterial, collagen stimulating Macadamia Ternifolia Nut Oil-Contains palmitoleic acid beneficial dry skin Panthenol (Provitamin B5)- Regenerative, soothing Linoleic Esters (patented Hepes complex)-Anti-inflammatory, analgesic OPC-Antioxidant, collagen stimulator Vitamin E-Regenerative, antioxidant Home Use: Apply as a daytime moisturizer under make-up or as a nourishing night cream. Professional Use: Use as a finishing moisturizer under sunblock, after microdermbrasion, or peels. Retail: 2 oz. jar ACNE CARE Treating acne or oily/acne prone skin can be a challenge. Circadia acne products will help to reduce inflammation, clear breakouts, and heal the skin. The products are formulated to be helpful to all types of acne and must be prescribed according to condition, prescriptions being used, and lifestyle. Daytime Control Lotion pH 6.3 A light lotion with special anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial agents, and UV protection. This day formula will help to control excess sebum throughout the day, soothe and protect while controlling breakouts. Easily tolerated. Feature Ingredients Octyl Methoxycinnamate--UVB screen Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane --UVA screen Benzoyl Peroxide--Antibacterial, exfoliating Oenothera biennis (Evening Primrose)--Gamma linoleic acid supports skin barrier function, hydrating, antiinflammatory Linoleic Esters (patented Hepes complex)--Anti-inflammatory, analgesic Tocopherol (vitamin E)--Antioxidant, moisturizing Allantoin--Soothing Home Use: Apply daily as a moisturizer under makeup. Retail Size- 2 oz. Plastic pump bottle Professional Use: Apply at the end of a facial treatment as a moisturizer. Night Control Lotion pH 6.0-6.5 A night repair product containing anti-inflammatory, kerotolytic and germicidal agents. Night Control Lotion works synergistically to combat the cause of acne and reduce inflammation associated with acne. Works to eliminate and control follicle congestion. It contains established acne treatment ingredients in compliance with FDA monographs. Feature Ingredients Benzoyl peroxide (5%)--Antibacterial, exfoliating Oenothera biennis (Evening Primrose)--Gamma linoleic acid supports skin barrier function, hydrating, antiinflammatory Linoleic Esters (patented Hepes complex)--Anti-inflammatory, analgesic, protease inhibitor Tocopherol (vitamin E acetate)-- Antioxidant Home Use: Use at night. Beginning at forehead, apply a small amount to entire face and neck. May be used as a spot treatment for localized acne eruptions. If dryness occurs or skin becomes irritated, apply every other night or as often as can comfortably tolerate. Retail Size- 2 oz. Plastic pump bottle Spot Stop pH 5.5 – 6.5 A clear light gel that is germicidal, anti-inflammatory and soothing. Reduces redness and helps control inflammation and painful swelling. Feature Ingredients Linoleic Esters(patented Hepes complex)--Anti-inflammatory, analgesic, protease inhibitor Bisabolol --Anti-inflammatory, regenerative, antimicrobial Home Use: Apply directly to spot at first sign of redness, swelling, or pain and continue to reapply as often as needed. Massage a small amount onto lesion after applying Daytime Control Lotion and before makeup. Apply after Night Control Lotion in the evening. Retail Size- .5 oz. Professional Use: Use at the end of a facial. Massage area of concern and finish with sunblock. SPECIALTIES Dr. Pugliese has formulated many innovative products that deserve a category All their own. He believes it is what’s inside the bottle that makes the difference and has earned his reputation for quality, honesty, and remarkable results. Our specialty products are an example of his dedication to skin and body health. Full Circle Eye Repair Emergency Eye Lift Vitage Firming and Shaping Gel Green and Red Tea Masks Full Circle Eye Repair This product is a balanced formula of highly effective ingredients for treating multiple concerns of the eye area. Full Circle is packaged as a boxed set of day and night treatment creams. Day Formula has the following benefits: • Contains natural herbs for constricting capillaries which will help to lighten under eye circles. • It decreases the absorption of light into the eye lid, increasing the reflection of light which will bring out the natural tone of the skin. • Peptides inhibit muscular contraction, reducing the formation of wrinkles. • Antioxidants prevent the destruction of collagen. • Contains ingredients that will inhibit enzymes that destroy collagen. • Works to decrease fluid build-up and de-puff. • Soothing, anti-inflammatory, and protective against environmental assaults. Night Formula has peptides to stimulate repair and increase collagen formation and at the same time minimize the formation of new lines. Vitamin A strengthens support tissue, aids in growth and repair of the epidermis, stimulates fibroblast cells to produce collagen and thicken the skin, improving firmness and elasticity. Application: Full Circle should be applied to the area of the orbicularis oculi muscle which forms a complete circle around the eye area. Apply product beginning with the inside point of the eyebrow and above brow line over to temple area and down around lower eye region. Using light pressure repeat until all product has been absorbed into the skin. Night Formula should be applied up to approximately 2 cm of lower lash line. Do not apply Night Formula to upper eye lid area. Retail Size: 2 – 1oz. bottles packaged as a set. Ingredients: Deionized water, cetearlyl alcohol and ceteareth-20, dipentaerythrityl hexaheptanoate/hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, stearyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, polyacrylamide and C 13-14 isoparaffin and laureth-7, retinyl acetate, propylene glycol, glucose oxidase, diazolidinyl urea, vitamin E acetate, methylparaben, propylparaben, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole. Ingredients: Deionized water, acetyl hexapeptide-3, glyceryl stearate and peg-100 stearate, C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, linoleic ester, behenyl alcohol, dimethicone, polyacrylamide and C 13-14 isoparaffin and laureth-7, titanium dioxide, silica and mica, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, oat protein, propylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, OPC, butcher broom, horse chestnut, diazolidinyl urea, tocopherol, disodium EDTA, methylparaben, L-phenylephrine HCL, propylparaben. Emergency Eye Lift pH 7.2 A clear light gel with tightening and firming properties. Clinically tested to improve eye appearance by tightening and smoothing the fine lines around the eyes. Results last approximately 3 hours. Emergency Eye Lift is compatible with other eye treatments. Feature Ingredients Sodium Hyaluronate-- Binds moisture and soothes Galactomannanes--Humectant, hydrating Panthenol (Provitamin B5)--Regenerative, soothing Home Use: Dispense a few drops onto fingertip and smooth under eye area, crows feet, and eyelid. Wait until product is absorbed before applying makeup. Retail Size- .5 oz. Bottle Professional Use: May be used as an eye masque during a facial treatment. Apply around eye area and cover with cool moistened eye pads. Professional Size- 1 oz. Plastic bottle Vitage This is an affective anti-aging supplement with a synergy of ingredients that have been clinically found to be very supportive to the aging body. New research has found that immune boosters, anti-inflammatory agents, and antioxidants are very beneficial anti-aging ingredients. Vitage has shown the following benefits: o Helps improve cell turnover and skin elasticity o Helps with the quality of the hair and nails o Supportive in the production of epidermal growth factor o Helps to support circulation o Beneficial to aging joints o Improvement in well being Performance Ingredients: Sea Cucumber is a relative of the starfish and is actually a protein. Rich in mucopolysaccharides, fatty acids and chondroitins, it has been found to help boost elasticity. It is a staple in Asian food and used in health practices. Chondroitin sulfate is marine-derived and is a polysaccharide containing glycosoaminoglycans, which are the building blocks of cartilage. Studies have found that it is very supportive in treating degenerative joint disease. Beta glucan is a known immune booster and is hypothesized to simulate immune system activity by activating white blood cells to attack infections and tumors. The immune response is enhanced to fight against infections, viruses, bacteria, fungi and parasites. In laboratory studies, in vitro studies have confirmed that beta glucan stimulates the production of monocyte cytokines, which may help promote regression of certain tumors. It is a known wound healer and is an anti-inflammatant. Ursolic acid is found in rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and is high in antioxidant compounds. It has been found to facilitate collagen and elastin synthesis, restoring the overall health and function of photoaged skin as well as facilitate tissue repair. Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins (OPC) is extracted from the bark of the Pinus maritime pine tree and the seeds of Vitis vinifera grapes producing a patented and highly efficacious source of OPC from France. It was first extracted over 50 years ago. In nature, OPC protects plants against oxidation, rancidity and aging. OPC is used extensively in human health products. Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins (OPC) have been found to be the most active free radical scavenging antioxidant known. They help protect against degenerative conditions and have been found to be very beneficial for circulatory problems. One of the greatest values of OPC is its ability to preserve and protect collagen and elastin, which are important structural constituents of the vascular wall, skin and connective tissues, including ligaments, tendons and others. Plants that are rich in Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins have been used for many years due to their very powerful healing effects. Recommended dosage: Take one tablet twice daily with food. 120 caplets per bottle Firming and Shaping Gel This is a light, cool gel that contains ingredients to smooth the uneven appearance of cellulite. o o o o Scientifically proven to reduce the appearance of cellulite on thighs and buttocks Noticeably smoothes and firms, improves skin tone and texture Fast absorbing gel with natural fresh fragrance Excellent companion product for in-clinic treatment with body wraps Feature Ingredients Theophylline--Increases utilization of fatty tissues Algsium--Seaweed product used as binding and releasing agent Aesculus hippocastanum (Horse Chestnut)--Contains escin beneficial to circulation L-carnitine--Helps metabolize fat Mentha sp. (Wild Mint)--Stimulating, refreshing Home Use: Dispense a generous amount into hands and briskly massage into entire thigh and buttock area. Maximum results achieved when performed twice daily. Apply in morning one hour before breakfast. Apply 30-minutes before retiring. Allow two hours after eating. Effectiveness greatly enhanced when used before exercise. Retail Size- 8 oz. bottle Professional use: Use in a program of cellulite treatments. Apply prior to wrapping. Professional Size- 16 oz pump bottle Green and Red Tea Masks The red and green tea masks are designed to deliver antioxidants into the skin. Both masks have the same ingredients with the exception of the teas. Although it is safe for all skin types, it works especially well for combination to oily skin types because of the kaolin base. Rich in antioxidants, oil absorbing properties, purifying, nourishing and soothing both masks leave the skin with a clear more even toned skin with a matte finish. Applicaton: This mask was designed to be massaged into the skin for maximum absorption of the antioxidants. In the final step of a facial or after exfoliating: Apply the mask generously to the face and neck avoiding immediate eye area. With fingertips, massage around the face using small circular motions and moderate direct pressure for 3- 5 minutes. Leave the mask on the skin an additional 5 minutes. Keeping the mask moist during contact with the skin will allow for easy removal. 2 oz. jars THE TREATMENTS The Enzymes Alpha/Beta Peel Citrus Enzyme Cocoa Enzyme Red Raspberry Enzyme Sensitive Skin Formula 30%/10% Full Strength Formula 40%/15% The SWiCH Dermal Rejuvenation System The Oxygen Rx Treatment Rosacea Rx Treatment Serum Dermafrost Salicylic Acid Peel Sensitive Skin Formula -12.5% Full Strength Formula- 25% THE ENZYMES Jessner’s Peel Lactic Peel- 30% Lactic Peel- 40% Professional Use Only Enzymes are a necessity for life and every cell process in the body. They are considered a catalyst. They cause things – chemical reactions – to happen. For example, when there is excess collagen, or collagen needs to be modified, an enzyme called collagenase is responsible for breaking down these byproducts. Some enzymes are considered proteolytic. They digest proteins. In a facial treatment, the enzyme powder is mixed with a “wetting” (activator) solution into the consistency of a pancake batter, and gently brushed onto the skin. It must remain moist. The action of the enzyme dissolves different forms of cellular debris and protein buildup leaving the skin soft, clearer and more receptive to any subsequent correction product. Each enzyme product – Zymase, Raspberry and Chocolate - is a combination of bromelain (pineapple), papain (papaya) and trypsin (bovine derivative). Bromelain and papain are cysteine protease and trypsin is a serine protease. Bromelain is an effective anti-inflammatory agent. Papain works with the sulfhydryl group and is highly effective in removing the keratin. Trypsin attacks proteins that contain amino acids. With these three enzymes working together to attack different parts of the keratin molecule, they produce very effective results. Our enzymes are a safe and gentle treatment, which can be used as a light peel or as a pretreatment before a salicylic acid peel. Applying the cocoa enzyme for 5 min. after microdermabrasion leaves the skin with a “polished” radiant appearance. Indications o Remove keratin buildup on skin. o Acne skin with pustules and macules o Back treatment o Use between SWiCH™ treatments. Contraindications o Accutane or other medications causing severe skin sensitivity o Allergies to pineapple or papaya o Sunburned skin o Any condition that may give cause for non-use of this product o DO NOT USE THE COCOA ENZYME on anyone allergic to chocolate. o DO NOT USE THE RASPBERRY ENZYME on anyone allergic to red raspberries. Feature Ingredients Bromelain--Dissolves cysteine protease, anti-inflammatory Papain--Dissolves sulphydroxyl protein group Trypsin--Dissolves keratin Raspberry--Anti-inflammatory, anti-viral, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, tyrosinase inhibitor. Cocoa- antioxidant, vaso-constrictor, soothing. Cocoa Enzyme This is an elegant product with soothing and calming properties. The enticing aroma of the cocoa makes it appealing as well as relaxing. Excellent for use on rosacea, inflamed acne, and sensitive skin. The Cocoa Enzyme removes keratin buildup and helps to brighten and clarify. Calms irritated or inflamed skin while it gently exfoliates. Leaves the skin with a healthy, luminous appearance. Red Raspberry Enzyme A raspberry enhanced enzyme with the same multiple enzyme base as the Cocoa and Citrus. A light and refreshing berry scent with multiple benefits from the red raspberry. Great for use on pigmented or sun damaged skin. Citrus Enzyme The Citrus Enzyme is appropriate for use on most skin types. It removes keratin buildup and helps brighten and clarify the skin. APPLICATION OF ENZYMES RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS & SUPPLIES o o o o o o o o o Lipid Cleansing Gel Enzyme Activator Zymase, Raspberry or Chocolate Enzyme Powder Vitamin C Light Day Cream SPF 30 4x4 cotton gauze pads Eye protection Spatula Steamer or warm moist towels CLIENT PREPARATION • Client must remove contact lenses • Protect hair with cap. CLEANSING 1. Remove eye makeup. 2. Place a few drops of cleanser onto fingertips and apply to client’s face and neck. Cleanse in circular motion and rinse thoroughly. 3. Apply eye pads. ANALYSIS 4. Examine the face with the magnifying light and Wood’s light. EXFOLIATION 5. To mix enzyme: Place ½ tsp. of enzyme powder into a small mixing cup/bowl. Add 3 tsp of Activator and mix thoroughly to the constancy of a thin pudding. Adjust powder to activator as necessary. Allow to stand for two minutes. Add more liquid if necessary. 6. Apply with mask brush or spatula to face and neck. Be careful not to apply too close to eyes. 7. Direct steamer from a distance to keep enzyme moist. Enzyme must be kept moist to be active. If steamer is not available, gently lay a warm moist towel to the face or spray with toner to keep moist. 8. Time for 10-20 minutes. Watch skin for erythema. First time clients or very sensitive skin: use for 5-10 minutes only. 9. Rinse thoroughly with tepid water. Apply a mask at this point or finish the treatment. To end treatment: Apply Vitamin C Serum to entire face and pat to aid in absorption. Apply moisturizer and/or the Light Day Cream SPF 30. Enzyme treatments can be safely administered every two weeks if needed. Enzyme Powder – 4 oz. jar, 65 grams Enzyme Activator – 8 oz. bottle DERMAFROST SALICYLIC ACID Professional Use Only Salicylic acid has been used for more than 100 years to treat dandruff, seborrheic dermatitis, warts, psoriasis and other conditions. It is found in wintergreen and birch bark. Referred to as a beta acid, salicylic acid is different from glycolic acid due to the positioning of the hydroxy group on the carbon chain of the acid. Alpha indicates that the group is on the first carbon atom, whereas beta means that the group is on the second carbon atom. Salicylic acid is lipid-soluble, in contrast to the water-soluble AHA’s. This is very important in relation to how it affects the follicular orifice, which is filled with sebum, a lipid. Due to these characteristics, salicylic acid easily penetrates into the lipid plug in a congested follicle. It is considered keratolytic and antimicrobial. Studies performed by Dr. Albert Kligman report that salicylic is more effective than glycolic resulting in decreased comedones, quicker exfoliation and an accelerated improvement of the skin without excessive irritation. It does not increase transepidermal water loss even though the proliferative effect of the exfoliant is greater. It is less irritating and does not alter skin barrier properties. During the past ten years, formulations combining salicylic acid with various alpha hydroxy acids have become more popular and are used to treat acne, problematic, dry and aging skin. Unlike AHAs that require neutralizing, salicylic acids are self-neutralizing, meaning that they are applied in one or more layers and allowed to dry. Skin exfoliation takes place within the next few days after the peel. The use of salicylic acid is a rapid in-office procedure with high tolerability, safety, and efficiency for the patient. Circadia has two strengths of salicylic acid – 12.5% and 25% at a pH of 2.9-3.0. It is advised to begin with a 12.5% in the first treatment. Treatment may be repeated up to three sessions spaced out once every four weeks. In a more sensitive skin, always use the 12.5%. Normally, salicylic is appropriate to use in most Fitzpatrick skin classifications. Always patch test. Sunscreen must be used at all times. If the goal of the treatment is to correct pigment irregularities, advise patient to use White Veil Lightener. Indications o o o o o o o Sun damaged skin (actinic keratoses) Fine wrinkling Deep wrinkling and loss of elasticity Acne vulgaris types I and II Pigmentation abnormalities Aging skin, fine wrinkles Rough, calloused skin Contraindications o Aspirin or salicylic sensitivity – Important! o History of fever blisters, “cold sores”. (Herpes Simplex- Type 1) o Seborrhea or atopic dermatitis o History of being “highly allergic” to anything o Pregnant or nursing baby o Accutane® within the last year o Antibiotics – topical or systemic o Broken skin o Laser surgery within the last twelve weeks o Using glycolic acid products, Retin-A® or Renova® in the last 4 weeks o Over-treated skin showing signs of a damaged lipid barrier. Pre Peel Conditioning- acne or oily skin types. For best results from the Dermafrost we suggest the client start using the Cleansing Gel with Salicylic Acid at least two weeks prior to the peel. Other products such as the Day Time or Night Time Control Lotions should be used in accordance with skin condition. Night Control Lotion should not be used for 2 days prior to peel. Pre Peel Conditioning- pigment irregularities For best results the patient should begin using White Veil Lightener two weeks prior to the peel applying it morning and night. Morning application should be followed by the Light Day Cream SPF 30. What to Expect Immediately after application of the Dermafrost, the patient will experience a slight burning or stinging sensation. This will subside quickly (as the solution dries). A small fan will help to keep the patient comfortable. Do not try to neutralize the peel with water, as this will intensify the burning. The Dermafrost is self-neutralizing. As the alcohol evaporates there will be a white layer of salicylic acid on the skin. This is what we call frosting and that means the peel is dry and has neutralized. This can be removed gently with cool water. The skin will feel tight and smooth immediately after the peel. starts in two days and may continue for seven days. More peeling central part of the face, particularly around the mouth, compared to face. Acne lesions and inflamed areas show more intensive peeling. smoother with fine lines and pigmented areas reduced. Peeling usually is noted in the the sides of the The skin will be Use caution with a patient who has seborrhea or atopic dermatitis. A history of cold sores/fever blisters is a contraindication and usually an antiviral medication is recommended. Have the patient check with the attending physician before administering peel. Post Peel Care Do not use too many products immediately after a peel. Keep the skin care regimen simple. The skin needs time to recover and return to normal. When the peeling or flaking has subsided the patient may resume using retinols, Retin-A, or Renova. This is also the time to begin using the White Veil Lightener again for pigment correction. Patients should avoid excessive sun exposure, use sunscreen at all times, and apply a daily moisturizer. Derma Frost can be performed in a series of three sessions spaced four weeks apart allowing for epidermal regeneration. DERMAFROST TREATMENT PROTOCOL Sensitive Skin Formula -12.5% pH 2.75 Appropriate for early to moderate photodamage and acne Treatment time- 30 minutes RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS & SUPPLIES o o o o o Lipid Cleansing Gel Post Peel Lotion DermaFrost- 12.5% Light Day Cream with SPF 30 Cotton eye pads or 2x2 gauze pads o 4x4 cotton gauze pads or 4x4 cotton esthetic wipes o Small hand-held fan Have client fill out and sign consent form. Repeat contraindications, verbally, before proceeding with peel. Prep: Protect hair with cap or headband. Remove eye makeup. Place a few drops of Lipid Cleansing Gel onto fingertips and apply to client’s face and neck. Cleanse in circular motion and rinse thoroughly. Apply eye pads moistened with water. Place a thin layer of Vaselene™ on the lips and nasolabial junction with a Q-tip swab. At this point, take a minute to check the skin under the magnifying light. Application of Dermafrost: 1. Pour ¼ tsp of Dermafrost into a small glass cup. 2. Give client small fan to hold and direct at face. 3. Using a cotton 4x4 folded in half, carefully dip into solution pressing 4x4 onto side of the glass cup to remove excess and apply one layer section-by-section beginning at the forehead, cheeks, nose, chin and ending with the upper lip. 4. Client will feel a slight burning or warming sensation until the product completely frosts and dries. Wait until product is thoroughly dry before checking for frosting. Check under wood light or magnifying lamp for signs of frost. 5. If no frosting is visible and client did not experience any burning sensation, a second coat may be applied. Always ask client first for tolerance. Ask them to rate the burning sensation on a scale of 1 to 10. (10 being severe burning.) Do not exceed 2 coats. These instructions are for the 12.5% Dermafrost only. 6. When thoroughly dry, gently rinse with cool towel or cotton 4x4’s moistened with cool water. 7. Do not perform extractions. PROTECT 8. Apply Post Peel Lotion. 9. Apply Light Day Cream SPF 30. Note: When using the Dermafrost 25% do not apply more than one coat. Home Care Instructions for Dermafrost: Do not wash face for 24-hours. The skin will show some peeling within 2 days. Avoid sun and tanning beds for 2 weeks following peel. Always wear sunblock when outdoors. Do not use any other type of exfoliation products such as AHA’s, or scrubs for two weeks. DermaFrost 12.5% - pH 2.75 DermaFrost 25% - pH 2.54 THE ALPHA-BETA PEEL- Professional Use Only Suitable for most skin types. Circadia offers two strengths of the Alpha-Beta Peel. 30% Lactic Acid with 10% Salicylic Acid- pH 1.95 40% Lactic Acid with 15% Salicylic Acid- pH 1.40 This very effective peel uses the perfect blend of acids to exfoliate without harshness, irritation, or inflammation. A new technology in peeling, the client will experience little to no stinging and should not notice flaking or peeling post peel. RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS & SUPPLIES o o o o o o Lipid Cleansing Gel Vitamin C Reversal Serum Hydrating Cream Light Day Cream with SPF 30 Cotton eye pads or 2x2 gauze pads 4x4 cotton gauze pads or 4x4 cotton esthetic wipes Have client fill out and sign consent form Prep: Protect hair with cap or headband. Remove eye makeup. Place a few drops of Lipid Cleansing Gel onto fingertips and apply to client’s face and neck. Cleanse in circular motion and rinse thoroughly. Apply eye pads moistened with water. Place a thin layer of Vaseline™ on the lips and nasolabial junction with a Q-tip swab. At this point, take a minute to check the skin under the magnifying light. Application: 1. 2. 3. 4. Dispense a small amount of peel solution into a cup. Fold a 4”x4” cotton esthetic wipe in half. Turn and fold in half again. Dip one flat edge of the cotton wipe into the peel solution pressing off any excess. Beginning with forehead apply one even coat to the face, ending in a feathering motion onto the neck. 5. Leave on for 10-20 minutes, adjust timing according to skin type and condition. 6. Wipe excess peel solution off with a soft cloth or cotton wipe. 7. Apply 2-3 drops of Vitamin C Reversal Serum directly on top of peel. Gently work around the face. 8. This will prevent any flare-up when neutralizing the peel . 9. Rinse thoroughly with cool water or sodium bicarbonate solution and pat dry. 10. Apply two additional drops of Vitamin C Reversal Serum and massage into the skin. 11. Finish with Light Day Cream SPF 30 or Hydrating Cream. 12. Advise client on home care and sun protection. The timing of the peel should be adjusted according to skin type and condition. The application time for the first visit should not be longer than 20 minutes. Subsequent applications can be increased up to 30 minutes. Lactic Acid Peel Professional Use Only 35% Lactic Acid- pH 2.00 45% Lactic Acid – pH 1.85 Suitable for most skin types. Ideal for aging, dry, and sensitive skin. RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS & SUPPLIES o o o o o o Lipid Cleansing Gel Vitamin C Reversal Serum Hydrating Cream Light Day Cream with SPF 30 Cotton eye pads or 2x2 gauze pads 4x4 cotton gauze pads or 4x4 cotton esthetic wipes Have client fill out and sign consent form Prep: Protect hair with cap or headband. Remove eye makeup. Place a few drops of Lipid Cleansing Gel onto fingertips and apply to client’s face and neck. Cleanse in circular motion and rinse thoroughly. Apply eye pads moistened with water. Place a thin layer of Vaseline™ on the lips and nasolabial junction with a Q-tip swab. At this point, take a minute to check the skin under the magnifying light. Application: 1. 2. 3. 4. Dispense a small amount of peel solution into a cup. Fold a 4”x4” cotton esthetic wipe in half. Turn and fold in half again. Dip one flat edge of the cotton wipe into the peel solution pressing off any excess. Beginning with forehead apply one even coat to the face, ending in a feathering motion onto the neck. 5. Leave on for 10-20 minutes, adjust the timing according to skin type and condition. 6. Wash off with cool moist towel or esthetic wipe. 7. Apply two to three drops of Vitamin C Reversal Serum and massage into the skin. 8. Finish with the Light Day Cream SPF 30 or Hydrating Cream. Jessner’s Solution - Professional Use Only pH 2.20 Indications for Jessner’s peel: Acne Photodamaged skin and premature aging Actinic keratoses Pigment Irregularities Contraindications: Allergies to resorcinol Retin A® or Renova® within 4 weeks Allergies to aspirin or salicylates Laser resurfacing surgery within the last 6 months Hypersensitivity or anyone “highly allergic” Dry and dehydrated skin or compromised lipid barrier Accutane within the past year Pregnancy or nursing Glycolic acid or salicylic acid within the past week. The Jessner’s solution contains 14% Salicylic acid, 14% Lactic acid and 14% Resorcinol. Resorcinol will increase the amount of peeling experienced after a peel. Peeling is usually light to moderate and depends on the skin condition and depth of the peel. One coat of Jessner’s solution is advised but may be increased as you build experience with the peel and the individual skin types, conditions, and tolerances. Never apply more than 3 coats. Have client fill out and sign consent form. Application: Prep: Protect hair with cap or headband. Remove eye makeup. Place a few drops of Lipid Cleansing Gel onto fingertips and apply to client’s face and neck adding water when needed. Cleanse in circular motion and rinse thoroughly. Apply eye pads moistened with water. Place a thin layer of Vaseline™ on the lips and nasolabial junction with a Q-tip swab. At this point, take a minute to check the skin under the magnifying light. • • • • • Pour approximately one tsp. of peel solution into a cup. Dip a folded cotton esthetic wipe into solution and press off any excess. Apply starting at the forehead, moving to nose, cheeks, and finishing with jaw line lightly feathering down onto the neck. Keep pressure and quantity of solution constant. Leave peel on the skin for approximately 10-15 minutes. Adjust the timing according to skin type, condition and tolerance. Mild erythema may be seen. You will not see a true frosting. When a mild frost is seen it is generally the residue from the salicylic acid and can be brushed off with a cotton wipe. § • • • Wash the peel off with cool, moist, soft cloth. (cont. on next page) Finish with the Hydrating Cream and Light Day Cream SPF 30. Arrange for a follow-up appointment in 5 to 7 days. Instruct the client to call with any questions or concerns. Home Care: Advise client to not wash the face until the following morning. Use gentle cleansers and soothing hydrating creams until peeling subsides. Stress the importance of sun protection at all times. No scrubs, retinoic acids, AHA’s, BHA’s, or astringents until the skin has healed. No peeling or picking at the skin. It is not recommended to OXYGEN RX TREATMENT – 6 TREATMENT KIT “For many years I objected to the use of oxygen on the skin since it is well known that skin is basically an anaerobic organ and uses oxygen for only 10% of its energy needs. In recent years I have learned that there are other roles for molecular oxygen besides respiration. (Though 95% of all the oxygen we breath is used for respiration) I have listed the main cellular actions of oxygen so that you will know why to use it in skin care. Please read the following information before proceeding to the next step.” Peter T. Pugliese, MD Energy Metabolism The bodies need for energy is provided by the metabolism of glucose to produce ATP, adenosine triphosphate. Energy stored in the glucose molecule is captured and stored in the molecule of ATP and then used wherever and whenever the body needs energy. In the process of metabolizing glucose many free protons are produced. Oxygen’s role in this process is to neutralize these proton by-products of glucose metabolism by binding them and making water, a much needed substance in the body. Without oxygen we would use up all our energy and in less than 8 minutes and die. The Making of Collagen This is the reason oxygen can be used to help aging skin. In a cell called the fibroblast (which is in the dermis) collagen cross linking requires the presence of two amino acids, proline and lysine. However, to use these amino acids to produce collagen they must first be changed to a new form which requires oxygen. The process is called hydroxylation and the end result is two new amino acids-hydroxyproline and hydroxylysine. New Blood Vessel Formation or Neovascularization Oxygen reaches tissues and cells mainly from the red blood cells in the capillaries. So to repair damaged tissue the body must make new capillaries. The process is most complex, but it is the presence of oxygen that initiates this process. The Need for Extra Oxygen in Tissue Repair Applying topical oxygen can increase tissue repair in many cases. Remember that aged skin is damaged skin and as such it needs a bit more oxygen. As oxygen leaves the capillary and enters the tissue on the way to the cellular mitochondria, the amount of available oxygen drops way down. We call this the oxygen cascade and often there is not enough oxygen to recover injured tissue, since injured tissues have a greater need for an increase in metabolism and thus an increase in oxygen. Using oxygen requires a knowledge of these things since too much oxygen can have a negative result on tissue in the formation of free radicals. As an esthetician you have an excellent tool in oxygen therapy, but you must know how to use it well. OXYGEN RX TREATMENT PROTOCOL Professional Use Only Suitable for all skin types. Properties: o Kills anaerobes, the germicidal action makes it excellent for the treatment of acne. o Breaks the bonds that hold the cells together- proteolytic oxidation. o Bleaching by oxidation, lightens and brightens the skin. o Vaso-constricting, making it useful for the treatment of Rosacea and Telangiectasia. o Increases skin function stimulating endothelial cells to make new blood vessels which will allow more blood to enter thereby making it easier to get nutrients into the skin. o Stimulates fibroblasts to produce more collagen in the dermis. o The presence of oxygen makes the skin firmer. Prep: Cleanse the skin with the appropriate cleanser. Use one of the Circadia enzyme treatments following directions on the enzyme package. Thoroughly remove all enzyme and rinse with warm towel. Make sure hair is covered completely before beginning Oxygen Rx treatment. Cover eyebrows with Vaseline. Before proceeding to next step, assemble all products for easy access. Make sure all spray bottles have pumps on top. Do not mix powder and gel base until ready to proceed. Begin Oxygen Rx: 1.) Empty one vial of oxygen Rx powder (step 1-b) into one gel base (step 1-a) stirring carefully and quickly until all the powder is dissolved. Immediately begin applying to the face in one even layer. Avoid immediate eye area. Do not apply to upper eye area. Let rest for 2 minutes. Total time product is on the face will be approximately 3 minutes. 2.) Do not remove product. Spray enzyme activator on top of first step. (step 2) With gloved hands lightly massage in small circular movements for 3 minutes. 3.) Remove excess product with spatula, spray area with ph neutralizer (step 3). Using a warm moist towel, remove all product from the face. If needed, rinse a second time with a clean towel. 4.) Spray with the citric spray (step 4). Pat to absorb. 5.) Finish with appropriate moisturizer and /or sunblock. Oxygen Rx treatment can be given once a week. Refer to Circadia technical guide for additional information on Oxygen Rx use. Oxygen Rx treatment with the enzyme can be given every 2 weeks or as needed. TREATING ROSACEA WITH THE OXYGEN TREATMENT o o o o o o o Cleanse the skin with Lipid Replacing Cleansing Gel. Apply Cocoa Enzyme treatment following directions on the enzyme package. Leave on 5-15 minutes (duration depends on skin type and condition), checking on the skin periodically for erythema. Thoroughly remove all enzyme and rinse with warm towel. Begin Oxygen Rx treatment and follow the step by step instructions included in the product kit or technical guide. When completed, let the skin rest for 10 minutes. Apply Rosacea Serum to affected areas and let penetrate. Apply Light Day Cream SPF 30. Aging Skin Oxygen Protocol: o o o o o Cleanse the skin with Lipid Cleansing Gel. Apply an enzyme or exfoliant of choice. Thoroughly remove all enzyme from the face and rinse well. Begin Oxygen Rx treatment and follow the step by step instructions included in the product kit or technical guide. Finish with Vitamin C Serum and then a collagenase inhibitor such as the Circadia Plus Night Time Repair. ROSACEA RX SERUM PROFESSIONAL USE ONLY PROPERTIES: A powerful blend of essential oils formulated for controlling the symptoms of rosacea. • Anti-microbial • Anti-inflammatory • Powerful botanicals help to kill the demodex mite. • Vaso-constricting APPLICATION: Using a Q-tip moistened with Rosacea Serum carefully apply a small amount to effected areas only. Allow to penetrate and dry. TREATMENT RECOMMENDATIONS: Rosacea Serum should be applied once a week for 3 weeks. For best results, apply rosacea serum after a cocoa enzyme treatment. ROSACEA RX TREATMENT PROTOCOL: CLIENT PREPARATION • Client must remove contact lenses • Protect hair with cap. CLEANSING • Remove eye makeup. • Pump a small amount of Lipid Replacing Cleansing Gel onto fingertips and apply to client’s face and neck. Cleanse in circular motion and rinse thoroughly. • Apply eye pads. ANALYSIS • Examine the face with the magnifying light and Wood’s light. EXFOLIATION 1. Mix Cocoa Enzyme Place 1 tsp. of enzyme powder into a small mixing cup/bowl. Add 3 tsp of Activator and mix thoroughly to the constancy of a thin pudding. Adjust powder to activator as necessary. Allow to stand for two minutes. Add more liquid if necessary. 2. Apply with mask brush or spatula to face and neck. Be careful not to apply too close Direct steamer from a distance to keep enzyme moist but not warm. Enzyme must be kept moist to be active. If steamer is not available, gently lay a tepid moist towel to the face or mist with water to keep moist. 3. 4. 5. Time for 10-20 minutes. Watch skin very closely for erythema. First time clients: use for 5-10 minutes only. Rinse thoroughly with tepid water. Allow skin to rest for approximately 3 min. Apply rosacea serum to effected areas only. Allow to penetrate and dry. Apply Light Day Cream SPF 30. OPTIONAL STEP: If client has responded well to the enzyme and the skin is calm, the following step may be added to the treatment before applying the rosacea serum. Thoroughly remove all enzyme from the face. Mist or moisten the face with cool water. Administer the Oxygen Rx Treatment as directed in the kit or technical guide. When complete, allow the skin to rest for 10 minutes. Apply the Rosacea Serum to effected areas. Allow to penetrate and dry. Finish with Light Day Cream SPF 30. The cocoa enzyme works well for rosacea, it will calm the skin as it exfoliates. Time the enzyme according to skin condition, results will be seen in as little as 5 minutes. If the skin is calm after removal of the enzyme, the Oxygen Rx treatment can be administered. The Oxygen Rx treatment will rid the skin of bacteria, constrict the capillaries, (helping to take down the redness), and help to heal pustules. The rosacea serum will then control the Demodex mite and complete the treatment. The SWiCH™ Dermal Rejuvenation System “The SWiCH™ is an effective alternative to chemical peels. In the past chemical peeling has been practiced by physicians and skin care professionals to rejuvenate damaged and aging skin. This method relies on the skin’s ability to repair itself after injury. Consistent damage to the epidermis, however, may lead to more serious side effects. With SWiCH™ it is possible to trigger the repair system without injury to the skin. “ Peter T. Pugliese, MD The SWiCH™ System is based on a physiological principle of inducing the natural repair system of the skin to become active. Activation of the repair system can then effect a restoration of both sun-damaged skin and intrinsic skin aging changes. The four-step process is as follows: 1. Cleansing the skin with gentle cleanser to remove dead cells and excess lipids. 2. Application of urea modified keratin proteins to allow increased penetration of actives. 3. Application of pyruvate-succinic acid complex activates the Kreb’s Cycle, increases flow of electrons to the Electron Transport System generating more energy through ATP synthesis. This product is not removed. It remains on the skin and is followed by the Fraction V. 4. Post-treatment with Fraction V stimulates the immune system and simultaneously activates multiple processes to accelerate healing. 5. Side effects include superficial crusting, hyperpigmentation in areas of inflammatory acne. edema, and transient 6. The SWiCH™ mechanism provides benefit up to one month. 7. The SWiCH™ System should be performed for 6-8 times spaced out once every 46 weeks. Unlike most acid-based treatments, The SWiCH™ System is a leave-on system. The active ingredient remains to provide continuous treatment for repair and restoration. Since tissue damage is minimal, repeated treatment can be performed at regular intervals without risk of over-treatment. Contraindications o o o o o o o o o o o Allergy to aspirin or salicylates Allergy to citric acid of any kind – oranges, lemons, grapefruit, etc. Anyone who says they are “highly allergic.” Pregnant or trying to get pregnant. User of Accutane® less than one year ago. Use of antibiotics (topical or systemic). Laser surgery within the last twelve weeks. Using glycolic acid products, Retin-A, or Renova in the last 10 days. Use with caution on Asian skin types since they have a tendency to be sensitive and/or have pigment problems. Do not apply to skin with a compromised lipid barrier. Clients considering the SWiCH™ program must discontinue the use of Retin-A, Renova, and any AHA products prior to their session. The guideline for timing Retin-A or retinol use with SWiCH depends on individual skin type. Any vitamin A product must be stopped at least 5 days before a SWiCH treatment and in some cases 10 days or longer. Do not perform the SWiCH™ treatments when clients are non-compliant with these guidelines. Do not perform the SWiCH treatment on any client with compromised skin of any type. Do not perform SWiCH for three months after a face lift or blepharoplasty. The SWiCH™ is for professional use only. SWiCH is for use on aging, photo and environmentally damaged skin. Treatment time – 90 minutes RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS & SUPPLIES o o o o o o o o Hydrating Cleanser (shake before use) EpiPrep Cellular SWiCH Fraction V Small fan brush 4x4 cotton gauze pads or facial towels Eye protection Fan for client CLIENT PREPARATION Have client read and sign consent form. Verbally go over contraindications with the client. Contact lenses must be removed. Protect hair with cap or headband. Step 1 - Cleansing 1. Remove eye makeup with the Vitamin Veil Cleanser and rinse. 2. Shake Hydrating Cleanser and place small amount onto fingertips and apply to face and neck. With light pressure and circular movements gently cleanse, adding water as needed. Rinse thoroughly. Step 2 – Prep 1. Apply an even layer of Epiprep on face and neck. It may be applied to the under eye area within 2 cm of the lower lid; DO NOT apply to upper eyelid. Time for 30 minutes. 2. Wash again with Hydrating Cleanser removing all traces of EpiPrep. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry. Step 3- SWiCH™ Solution 1. With a pipette, dispense 3ml of the SWiCH™ solution into a cup. 2. Using a 4x4 cotton esthetic wipe folded in half, dip end into solution pressing off excess against side of cup. Carefully apply one even coat to face and neck. DO NOT go over an area more than once. 3. Time for 30 minutes. 4. DO NOT WASH OFF. 5. Apply Fraction V evenly over treated area. Step 4- Completing treatment Complete and detach SWiCH™ “At Home Care instructions.” Thoroughly review “At Home Care” instructions with client and provide client with the 3-day supply of Vitamin Veil Cleanser and the Fraction V solution. Schedule follow-up visit for an enzyme treatment. (7 to 10 days) Schedule next SWiCH treatment. (in 4 weeks) FOLLOW-UP Call your client/patient within 24 hours. Sun damage to cheek area before SWiCH™ Helpful Suggestions: If possible, schedule client to come in one week to ten days after a SWiCH™ treatment for an enzyme application. The Cocoa Enzyme is recommended to remove the buildup of dead cells and return the skin to glowing appearance which remains until the end of the month and the time for another SWiCH™. Take time to explain how it works to your clients. Keep SWiCH™ brochures in your waiting area. Sell the SWiCH™ treatments in packages of 3 including the enzyme follow-ups. Generally, after the third treatment you will see a noticeable improvement and clients are encouraged to purchase a second set of three. SWiCH™ is not recommended for active acne. Although, when all pustules have healed and skin is in a healthy condition, it will help to eliminate discolorations left from the acne. When using it on pigmented skin, start the client on White Veil Lightener two weeks prior to first treatment. White Veil Lightener should be applied in the morning under the sunblock and in the evening after cleansing. ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE CLIENT UNDERSTANDS THE IMPORTANCE OF SUN PROTECTION AT ALL TIMES. The SWiCH™ is sold as a complete kit, do not substitute or alter any steps. Thoroughly remove all traces of Epiprep before applying SWiCH™ Solution. Do not go over any areas a second time with the SWiCH™ solution. Always cover the eyes when applying the SWiCH™ solution. NEVER substitute microdermabrasion for the Epiprep. Sun damage improved after 3 SWiCH™ Treatments SWiCH™Dermal Rejuvenation System – 10 Treatment Kit Pre and Post Operative Skin Conditioning Program The goal of this program is to create healthy skin, to repair environmental damage, and restore normal skin functions which, in turn, will shorten recovery time from cosmetic procedures and give the patient optimal results. The Circadia skin care system will work to lighten discolorations, penetrate the skin to allow for cell stimulation, improve circulation, and help to rebuild collagen. The products utilize the most effective ingredients-all non-prescription-in the highest strengths necessary to improve skin at the cellular level. Pre Operative Conditioning This protocol should be followed for at least 6 weeks prior to any cosmetic procedure for best results. All programs will differ depending on the condition of the skin at the beginning of treatment, the skin type, and lifestyle of the client. This protocol must be adjusted to each individual and the number of weeks before surgery. Beginning stages of treatment may show the following symptoms: *dryness *flakiness *increased sensitivity These reactions are normal and are a sign that the skin is beginning restoration. If skin becomes too sensitive, it may be necessary to skip a few nights of Vitamin A Rx Cream. Begin the first week by applying the Vitamin A Rx Cream for 2 consecutive nights, using the Hydrating Cream the remainder of the week. Use your first week as a guide for the following week. The goal is to apply the Vitamin A Rx Cream for as many nights as the skin can tolerate, watching for irritation and stopping when skin shows flakiness or sensitivity. Pre Operative Protocol (with pigment control) AM 1. Cleanse with Lipid Replacing Cleansing Gel. 2. Vitamin C Reversal Serum- apply to face, neck and eye area and allow to penetrate. 3. White Veil Lightener- apply evenly to entire face. (neck area if being treated). Wait until cream is absorbed before proceeding to next step. 4. Apply the Light Day Cream SPF 30. Sun protection is necessary at all times. When exposed to the sun, apply Light Day Cream SPF 30 several times a day. If you cannot follow these precautions and avoiding the sun is impossible, discontinue Vitamin A Rx Cream a week prior to sun exposure and continue with balance of program as soon as possible. 5. Take two Vitage daily with food. PM 1. Cleanse with Vitamin Veil Cleanser 2. White Veil Lightener- apply evenly to entire face. (neck area if being treated) Wait until cream is absorbed before proceeding to next step. 3. Vitamin A Rx Cream- apply evenly to entire face, extending to hairline, ending with a feathering motion. Do not apply too close the lower lash line or on upper eye lid area. 4. Hydrating Cream- to be used for comfort and hydration in place of the Vitamin A Rx Cream. Stop Vitamin A Rx Cream 5 days before procedure. Post Operative Protocol (pigment control) Begin protocol only when directed by attending physician. AM 1. Cleanse with Lipid Replacing Cleansing Gel 2. Apply the White Veil Lightener. 3. Apply Light Day Cream SPF 30. 4. Take two Vitage daily with food. PM 1. Cleanse with Vitamin Veil Cleanser 2. Apply the White Veil Lightener. 3. Hydrating Cream- may be applied over post peel for extra hydration. Do not begin Vitamin A Rx Cream until instructed by physician or skin care professional. Pre Operative Conditioning (cosmetic surgery) AM 1. Cleanse with Lipid Replacing Cleansing Gel. 2. Vitamin C Reversal Serum- apply to face, neck and eye area and allow to penetrate. 3. Apply MyoRx to areas prone to wrinkling. 4. Apply Full Circle Eye Repair – Day Formula to eye area. 5. Light Day Cream SPF 30. PM 1. Cleanse with Vitamin Veil Cleanser 2. Vitamin C Reversal Serum-apply to face, neck and eye area and allow to penetrate. 3. Apply MyoRx to areas prone to wrinkling. 3. Apply MyoRx to areas prone to wrinkling. 4. Apply Full Circle Eye Repair – Night Formula to eye area according to package directions. 4. Vitamin A Rx Cream- apply evenly on entire face, extending to hairline, ending with a feathering motion. Do not apply to eye area. Hydrating Cream- to be used for comfort and hydration in place of the Vitamin A Rx Cream. Post Operative Instructions- to begin after sutures are removed and no open areas are present. AM 1. Cleanse with Vitamin Veil Cleanser taking time to gently massage the vitamin veil on scars. Gently remove with warm washcloth. 2. Vitamin C Reversal Serum- apply to face, neck, and eye area and allow to penetrate. 3. Hydrating Cream may be massaged into scars to keep area hydrated and soothed. 4. Light Day Cream SPF 30. PM 1. Cleanse with Vitamin Veil Cleanser - gently massage on scars. Remove with warm washcloth. 2. Vitamin C Reversal Serum- apply to face, neck, and eye area and allow to penetrate. 3. Hydrating Cream- apply to entire face making sure to gently massage into scars. Begin Vitamin A Rx Cream, Circadia Plus Night Time Repair, or Full Circle Eye Repair Night Formula approximately 2 weeks post surgery or as directed by physician. Moisture Therapy AM 1. Cleanse- Circadia Milk Cleanser 2. Apply MyoRx Serum to face and under eye area, massaging into the skin. 3. Apply Hydrating Cream or Light Day Cream SPF 30. PM 1. Cleanse - Apply Vitamin Veil Cleanser to face including eye area. Remove cleanser with warm wash cloth. 2. Apply MyoRx Serum to face and under eye area, massaging into the skin. 3. Apply Hydrating Cream. One to two drops of Moisture on Demand may be added to the Hydrating Cream for extra moisture. THE ABOVE PROTOCOLS ARE SUGGESTIONS FOR CONDITIONING AND CARING FOR THE SKIN. INDIVIDUAL SKIN TYPES AND CONDITIONS VARY, AND PROTOCOLS SHOULD BE ADJUSTED ACCORDINGLY. Frequently Asked Questions What if the skin becomes sensitive in the beginning? Everyone tolerates things differently and the prescribed protocol can always be changed to accommodate each clients personal needs. Keep in mind that the reactions around the mouth or eye area may be more pronounced than on the rest of the face. This is typical of vitamin A use. Always let the client know they should call with any concerns or questions. What should the client do if they going to be on vacation and in the sun? Instruct them to use the Light Day Cream SPF 30, reapply several times a day, and wear a hat when possible. Avoid hot saunas, hot tubs, and protect from wind and sun at all times wearing a hat or visor when necessary. If they cannot follow these instructions, they should discontinue the Vitamin A Rx Cream before leaving for vacation, continue with the balance of the protocol and begin using the Vitamin A Rx Cream as soon as possible after sun exposure. What if the skin gets itchy and dry? Stop the Vitamin A Rx Cream for a night or two and substitute the Hydrating Cream for comfort and hydration. Can the products be used on the hands and arms? Yes, the skin conditioning protocol can be used on face, hands, arms, or neck and decollete. Can it be used while pregnant or nursing? No, it is not recommended. Products Used : Vitamin Veil Cleanser- a soybean oil based cleanser that nourishes and soothes the skin. Lipid Replacing Cleansing Gel- a gentle gel cleanser that effectively cleans without breaking the lipid barrier or denaturing the keratin. Vitamin C Reversal Serum- biologically active vitamin C that inhibits the breakdown of collagen Hydrating Cream-boosts moisture, protecting from transepidermal water loss , contains collagenase inhibitors, collagen metabolic stimulators, and powerful antioxidants. White Veil Lightener- a clear light lotion with tyrosinase inhibitors & antioxidants. Circadia Plus Night Time Repair- a regenerative, reparative, and rejuvenating cream designed to work with the skin’s natural nighttime repair cycle. Vitamin A Rx Cream- same properties as the Circadia Plus Night Time Repair but a higher percentage of vitamin A. Light Day Cream SPF 30- gentle UVA and UVB protection in a light cream containing antioxidants. Vitage- a daily vitamin supplement formulated to increase skin elasticity, boost the immune system, and reduce the appearance of fine lines. FACIAL CONFIDENTIAL QUESTIONNAIRE PLEASE PRINT Today’s Date __________________________ First Name ___________________________________ Last Name _____________________________________ Date of Birth ____/____/_______ Street ___________________________________________ Apt. # ______ City __________________ State ________ Zip ______________ Phone – Home ( ) ________________________ Work ( ) _________________________ Mobile ( Dermatologist/physician _________________________________________________________ Phone ( Emergency Contact ________________________________________________________ Phone ( ) ______________________ ) _________________________ ) _______________________________ Your occupation ________________________________________________________ E-Mail ______________________________________ Referred by q Friend q Mailer q Walk-by qYellow Pages qGift Certificate q Other ________________ Esthetician Name _________________________________________ 1. What is the reason for your visit today? V Rarely burns – Deep tan 1. What special areas of concern do you have? _________________________________________________ _________________________________________________ _________________________________________________ VI 6. Never burns – Deeply pigmented Do you ever experience q flakiness? EXPECTATIONS and HISTORY q redness? q tightness? q excessive oily shine during day? 2. Which conditions would you like to improve? qAcne scarring q Hyperpigmentation 7. What is your present skin regimen? qAcne q Broken capillaries q Soap & water only qAge spots q Stretch Marks q Masque q Moisturizer q Exfoliation qEnlarged Pores q Surgical/facial scars q Sun Block every day q Cleanser q Toner qFine lines & wrinkles q Other ___________________ other__________________________________ _________________________________________________ 8. Are you ever exposed to chemicals, oils, or other caustic substances that may aggravate your skin? q Yes q No What? 2. Have you ever had facial treatment in the past? q Yes q No 3. What was your experience? _______________________________________________ _________________________________________ 9. Do you blush easily? ______________________________________________ If yes, what are the contributing factors? q Emotions q Temperature changes q Normal ___________________ q Oily q Combination qSensitive q Sun Damaged 10. Do you q other q sun bathe? q use a tanning bed? 5. How would you rate your skin? 11. Have you ever had Circle one q microdermabrasion q facial surgery I Always burns, never tans q cosmetic Surgery II Always burns easily, tans slightly q dermal fillers q laser resurfacing III Burns moderately – tans gradually IV Seldom burn – Always tans well q No q Foods 4. How would you describe your skin? q Dry q Yes q peels? q botox How recently?___________________________ 12. Are you under treatment for any current skin condition? q Yes q No If yes, what?_____________________ 13. Does your skin heal q fast? q scar easily? q with pigment irregularities? 14. Do you bruise easily? q Yes q No 15. Do you get sores/blisters (Herpes Zoster/Shingles)? q Yes q No 16. What medications/hormone replacement/vitamins do you presently take? _________________________________________________ _________________________________________________ 47. 48. 49. 50. Serious Injury Sleep problems Thyroid Varicose Veins q Yes q No q Yes q No q High q Low q Yes q No 51. Do you smoke? What ___________ q Normal q Yes q No 52. Do you wear contact lenses? 53. q Yes q No 54. Have you ever had a reaction to q cosmetics q metals q medication q food q fragrance q airborne particles? q Other _________________________________________________ Explain ________________________________________ 17. Have you ever used 55. For women: Oral contraceptives? 18. q Retin-A® q Differin q Accutane® q Renova® q topical antibiotics q Tazarac q Hydroquinone q Alpha Hydroxy Acids? any topical Rx? 19. When and for how long? _______________________________ q Yes q No 56. Are you pregnant or trying to get pregnant? q Yes q No 57. Are you taking hormone replacement? q Yes 20. Any personal or family history of skin cancer? q Yes 58. Do you experience hormone imbalances? q No q Yes Provide detail ____________________________________ 21. How would you describe your overall q Good q Fair q Poor 22. Have you had any of the following, past or present? 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. Acne q Yes q No Allergies q Yes q No Arthritis or Bursitis q Yes q No Blood Pressure q High q Low Breast Implant q Yes qNo Cancer q Yes q No Cataracts q Yes q No Cholesterol q High q Low Claustrophobic q Yes q No Diabetes q Yes q No Diarrhea/constipation q Yes q No Eczema q Yes q No Epilepsy q Yes q No Hay Fever q Yes qNo Headaches q Yes q No Heart Disease/Conditions q Yes q No Hepatitis q Yes q No HIV/AIDS q Yes q No Infections q Yes q No Lupus q Yes q No Menopausal q Yes q No Metal Implants q Yes q No Pace Maker q Yes q No 46. Phlebitis q No For Men: 59. Do you shave with health? q Excellent q No q Yes q No q electric shaver? q razor? 62. Do you experience skin breakouts? q Yes q No When __________ 63. q Normal 64. Is your stress level q high Where __________ q Yes q No LIFESTYLE & DIET ________________ q Normal Do you have ingrown hair? q medium q low 65. Do you normally sleep well? q Yes q No How often ______ What___________ 66. Do you regularly exercise? q Yes q No 67. Do you have food intolerances? q Yes q No What?______________________________________ 68. Do you follow any special diet? q Yes q No 69. How many glasses of water do you consume daily? ______ 70. How many cups of caffeine-type beverage (coffee, tea, soft drinks do you consume daily? q 1-3 cups q 4 or more 71. It may be necessary to recommend alterations to your treatment program or additions in your home care regimen; would that be okay with you? q Yes q No participate in following appointment schedules and home care procedures to the best of my ability, so that I may obtain maximum effectiveness. In the event that I may have additional questions or concerns regarding my treatment or suggested home product routine, I will inform my practitioner immediately. I release the skin therapist, business name and their staff harmless from any liability that may result from products or treatments used and distributed from this business. POLICIES Your practitioner will recommend the appropriate schedule for future facial treatments or physician referral in order to achieve your skin improvement goals. INFORMED RELEASE I _________________________________, do fully understand all the questions above and have answered them all correctly and honestly. I understand that the services offered are not a substitute for medical care. I understand that the practitioner will completely inform me of what to expect in the course of treatment and will recommend adjustments to my regimen if deemed necessary. I also am aware that individual results are dependent upon my age, skin condition, and lifestyle. I agree to actively We require 48-hours notice for cancellations. Cancellation for Monday must be phoned in on the Friday before. If you are not satisfied with your service or products, please contact your skin specialist within 24-hours after your appointment so that the situation may be corrected. It is our policy to provide you with the best professional service and products customized for your skin condition. Signature______________________________________ Date _____________ Skin Assessment First Name __________________________________ Last Name ___________________________________ Date __________ Performed by _________________________________ PERIPHERAL VASCULAR SYSTEM & ITS DISORDERS q q q q q q q q q q Normal Erythrosis (permanent redness) __________________ Couperose (diffuse redness) ______________________ Cyanosis (dark blue) __________________________ Rhinophyma (bulbous nose) Erythema (Intermittent redness) _________________ Telangiectasia (distended capillaries) _____________ Angioma (naevus vascularis) ______________________ Spider Angioma _______________________________ Telaniectatic wart ______________________________ LIPID SYSTEM AND ITS DISORDERS q q q q q Acne Normal secretions: Region(s) Excess secretions: Region(s) _______________________ Very little secretion: Region(s) ____________________ Seborrheic (oily) Asphyxiated ____________________________________ q q q q q q Many comedones Macula - Region(s) ______________________________ Nodules - Region(s) _____________________________-_ Pustule - Region(s) ______________________________ Papule-pustules – Region(s) ______________________ Vesicula – Region(s) _____________________________ q Normal q Squama q Hyperkeratinization q Furfur (flaky scales) q Hypokeratinization q Pityriasis simplex q Eczema q Psoriasis q Ichthyosis q Keratosis senilis GRAIN OF SKIN SKIN TEXTURE q Very fine q Slightly visible ostium q Obvious visible ostium q Enlarged ostium q Smooth q Rough q Granular SKIN TONE q Firm q Mild lack of one q Severe lack of tone COMPLEXION & PIGMENTATION DISORDERS q Milky q Fair q Reddish q Pinkish q Slightly amber q Yellowish q Black q Olive q Melanocytic nevus (birthmark) q Senile lentigo q Dark circles (eyes) q Chloasma q Macula solaris, freckles q Vitilaligo q Other _____________________________ q Other _____________________________ SKIN DISORDERS Eruption Pattern q Few q Many q Intermittent q Permanent Acne Grade Grade 1: Grade 2: _____________________________________________ Grade 3: ______________________________________________ Grade 4: _____________________________________________ q None q Chapping q Ulcers q Scars q Nodules q Furuncle (boil) q Cheloids q Phlycena (blister) q Excoriation q Carbuncle (larger area of inflammation q Escar (scabies) q Stretch marks q Other _____________________________ SKIN GROWTHS Medically treated? q Yes q No Fatty Inclusions q None q Milium q Closed comedones q Seborrheic hyperplasia q Micro sebaceous cyst q Open comedones q Escar (scabies) q Xanthoma SKIN HYDRATION q Normal hydration q Superficial dehydration q Deep dehydration q Ridules – Regions _____________________________________ q Wrinkles – Regions ___________________________________ q Furrows – Regions ___________________________________ SKIN SENSITIVITY q Normal q Burning sensation q Reactive q Pruritus (itching) q Hyper-reative q To Pressure q Intolerant to ________________________________________ KERATINIZATION q None q Pigmented hair q Nevus epidermalq Molluscum pendulum (tag) q Melanocytic nevus (birthmark) FITZPATRICK CLASSIFICATION Always burns easily, never Type I – White tans Type II – White Burns easily, tans slightly Type III – White Sometimes burns, then tans gradually and moderately Type IV – Moderate Brown Burns minimally, always tans well Type V – Dark Brown Burns rarely, tans deeply Type VI – Black Almost never burns, deeply pigmented TREATMENT RECORD FOR ______________ Date __________________ Esthetician ______________________ Date __________________ Esthetician _______________________ Today’s Treatment _______________________________________ Today’s Treatment _______________________________________ Cleanser _______________________________________________ Cleanser _______________________________________________ Toner _________________________________________________ Toner _________________________________________________ Exfoliation ______________________________ Time ___________ Exfoliation ______________________________ Time ___________ Extraction q Yes q No ___________________________________ Extraction q Yes q No ___________________________________ Steam? q Yes q No How long ____________________________ Steam? q Yes q No How long ____________________________ High Frequency? q Yes q No High Frequency? q Yes q No Galvanic qYes q No Galvanic qYes q No Ampoule? q Yes q No What _____________________________ Ampoule? q Yes q No What ____________________________ Masque? Masque? What ___________________________ Time_________ What ___________________________ Time_________ Moisturizer What ________________________________________ Moisturizer What ________________________________________ Sun Block Sun Block SPF ____ SPF ____ Other services and comments: Other services and comments: Date __________________ Esthetician ______________________ Date __________________ Esthetician _______________________ Today’s Treatment _______________________________________ Today’s Treatment _______________________________________ Cleanser _______________________________________________ Cleanser _______________________________________________ Toner _________________________________________________ Toner _________________________________________________ Exfoliation ______________________________ Time ___________ Exfoliation ______________________________ Time ___________ Extraction q Yes q No ___________________________________ Extraction q Yes q No ___________________________________ Steam? q Yes q No How long ____________________________ Steam? q Yes q No How long ____________________________ High Frequency? q Yes q No High Frequency? q Yes q No Galvanic qYes q No Galvanic qYes q No Ampoule? q Yes q No What _____________________________ Ampoule? q Yes q No What ____________________________ Masque? Masque? What ___________________________ Time_________ What ___________________________ Time_________ Moisturizer What ________________________________________ Moisturizer What ________________________________________ Sun Block Sun Block SPF ____ Other services and comments: SPF ____ Other services and comments Informed Consent – DERMAFROST SALICYLIC PEEL 1. I, ________________________________________, understand that the purpose of the salicylic acid peel is to lightly peel the outer surface of my skin. Some of the benefits include lessening of pigmentation, reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and helps control certain acne conditions. 2. I understand there is a possibility of side effects, such as excessive peeling, redness, or pigmentation. 3. I understand that I am to complete a medical history and be complete and truthful about my physical conditions, medications that I may be taking, and my current skin care regimen. I am also aware that my lifestyle, which if it includes smoking, outdoor exposure, tanning beds, excessive alcohol consumption and/or recreational use of controlled substances will effect and diminish the effectiveness and result of the treatment. 4. If I have any questions regarding the procedure, I agree to call ___________________________________ to discuss any concerns. 5. I understand the cost of the treatment and the fee structure has been explained to me. 6. I understand that my practitioner will recommend home care products to work in tandem with the in-clinic treatment. 7. I understand that the following conditions preclude me from having this treatment and verify that none of these conditions apply to me at this time. Initial: ______ Allergic to aspirin or any salicylic sensitivity ______ Broken skin ______ Inflammation ______ Recent peels within eight weeks ______ Herpes virus (cold sores) ______ Use of Accutane® within the past 12-months ______ Laser resurfacing surgery within the last 12-months ______ Use of glycolic acid products, Retin-A®, or Renova® in the last 4-weeks INFORMED CONSENT I have read and understand this agreement and all of my questions have been answered. I agree to these terms and I want to proceed with the Dermal Rejuvenation treatment. Signed _____________________________________________ Date ____________________ Practitioner _________________________________________ Date ____________________ Witness _____________________________________________ Date ____________________ INFORMED CONSENT – SWiCH™ Dermal Rejuvenation System 1. I, ________________________________________, understand that the SWiCH™ Dermal Rejuvenation treatment is intended to improve the condition and appearance of my skin. I understand that the product has been thoroughly studied, clinical trials were performed on a variety of skin types, and that clinical results may vary. 2. I understand there is a possibility of rare side effects, as there is with any product, which has been proven safe and effective in clinical trials. Should I experience an extreme response to this treatment, I have been given the names and numbers for immediate response for the remedy. 3. Possible short-term effects are reddening, mild stinging sensations, scabbing, feeling tightness, and acne-like eruptions in the days following the treatment. 4. I understand that I am to complete a medical history and be complete and truthful about my physical conditions, medications that I may be taking, and my current skin care regimen. I am also aware that my lifestyle, which if it includes smoking, outdoor exposure, tanning beds, excessive alcohol consumption and/or recreational use of controlled substances will effect and diminish the effectiveness and result of the Dermal Rejuvenation treatment. 5. If I have any questions regarding the procedure, I agree to call ______________________ to discuss any concerns. 6. I understand the cost of the treatment and the fee structure has been explained to me. 7. I understand that I will be given products by the esthetician following the treatment, and written instructions for the use of these products have been explained to me. The clinically demonstrated positive results of the Dermal Rejuvenation require compliance with the application of these products. 8. I understand that the following conditions preclude me from having this treatment at this time and verify that none of these conditions apply to me at this time. Initial: ______ Allergic to aspirin ______ Allergic to citric fruits (oranges, grapefruit, lemons) ______ History of being “highly allergic” to anything ______ Pregnant or nursing ______ Use of antibiotics (topical or systemic) ______ Use of Accutane® within the past 12-months ______ Laser resurfacing surgery within the last 12-months ______ Using glycolic acid products, Retin-A®, or Renova® in the last 4-weeks INFORMED CONSENT I have read and understand this agreement and all of my questions have been answered. I agree to these terms and I want to proceed with the Dermal Rejuvenation treatment. Signed _____________________________________________ Date _______________________________ Practitioner _________________________________________ Date _______________________________ Witness _____________________________________________ Date _______________________________ INFORMED CONSENT FOR CHEMICAL PEEL I, ______________________________________________, give permission to my skin care therapist,____________________________________, to perform the chemical peel treatment we have discussed and will hold him/her and staff harmless from any liability that may result from this treatment. I understand that every precaution will be taken to minimize or eliminate negative reactions such as blisters, redness, or irritation. I have given an accurate account of any over the counter and prescription medications that I am using. I am currently not using Accutane® or have not used within the past year, I am not using Retin-A®, retinol, AHA’s or BHA’s at this time nor have I used within the past two weeks. I have not had any surgical procedures, chemical peels, laser treatments or facial procedures that I haven’t disclosed to my esthetician. I am not presently pregnant or lactating. _____________(Initial) I have not had any recent chemotherapy or radioactive treatments, sunburn, windburn, or broken skin. I have not recently waxed or used a depilatory (such as Nair) on the area being treated today. I do not have a history of keloid scarring, diabetes, any autoimmune disease, active herpes blisters or cold sores. _____________( Initial) I understand that I should not have a chemical peel if I intend to be in the sun or use a tanning bed. I understand that I must use a sunscreen on a regular basis when exposed to the sun. ___________(Initial) I consent to the taking of photographs to monitor treatment effect and results if desired by my therapist.________.( Initial) My expectations are realistic and I understand that the results are not guaranteed and that for maximum results, more than one application may be necessary. The rate of improvement depends on my skin type, condition, my age, degree of sun damage, or pigmentation levels.__________( initial) I am willing to follow recommendations by my skin care professional for home care. I understand of the possibility of peeling, flaking and excessive dryness. I agree to use the products specifically recommended by my esthetician and including a sunscreen._________ (initial). In the event of any questions or concerns, I will consult my skin care professional immediately. I understand the potential risks and complications and have chosen to proceed with the treatment after careful consideration of both known and unknown risks, complications, and limitations. I agree that this constitutes full disclosure, and that it supersedes any previous verbal or written disclosures. I certify that I have red, and fully understand the above paragraphs and that I have had sufficient opportunity for discussion to have any questions answered. Name__________________________________________________Date________________________ Print___________________________________________________ Professional____________________________________________Date_________________________ GLOSSARY OF TERMS A Aromatherapy - Ancient art of using scent to relieve physical symptoms (stress) or to accent feelings, i.e., peppermint invigorates. Plant-derived essential oils are used in treatment and therapy to enhance the beauty of the skin and body. Artery - Blood vessel that carries blood to the heart. Arthrosis - Name under which are designated degenerative chronic conditions of the articulation of line or juncture between the bones. Causes pain, cracking, deformation or impotency without deterioration of general conditions. Asphyxiated skin – Impaired exchange of oxygen in the skin. Exchanges usually caused by excessive accumulation of keratin on skin surface, thus causing a dull, lifeless complexion. May be accompanied by numerous comedones and/or vesicles. Asteatosis – Dry, scaly skin. Partial or absolute deficiency of lipids usually due to aging or bodily disorders. May be caused by alkalies found in soaps and washing powders. Asthma – Term used to denote bronchial asthma; a condition of the lungs in which there is widespread narrowing of airways, varying over short periods of time either spontaneously or as a result of treatment, due in varying degrees to contraction (spasm) of smooth muscle, edema of the mucosa, and mucus in the lumen of the bronchi and bronchiles; these changes are caused by the local release of spasmogens and vasoactive substances in the course of an allergic process. Astringent – Constricting action on the skin giving a tightening effect. Many botanicals provide an astringent effect due to the presence of tannins. Atonic – Pertaining to the lack of tone such as seen in aging skin, and pre-mature aged skin due to photo damage. B Bacteria (Bacterium) – Microscopic unicellular plant lacking chlorophyll and fully defined nuclei. They occur in three main forms: Spherical (coccus), rod-shaped (bacillus), and spiral (spirilla). They occur in water, soil, organic matter or living bodies of plants and animals, being saprophytic (absorbing), parasitic (living in or one), and autotrophic in nutrition. Barrier vehicle – A substance that allows the flow of product into the skin (through the cell structure of the epidermis) or through keratinized structure such as a fingernail or hair. Basal lamina – Basement membrane. Basal layer – Innermost layer of the epidermis; contains living and dividing cells. Base – In chemistry, a substance which when dissolved in water, provides hydroxyl ions from its own molecules; a molecule or ion which can accept protons. Basic Skin Care – Products that care for the needs of the skin on a day-to-day basis. Usually consists of a cleanser, freshener and moisturizer. Benign – Mild form of illness as opposed to fatal or malignant. Binder – Substance such as gum Arabic, gum tragacanth, glycerin and sorbitol that dispense, swell, absorb water, increase consistency and hold ingredients together. Bioextract – Extracts prepared from animal tissues. Soluble collagen and hydrolyzed elastin are to examples. Blood vessels – Network of tube-like vessels that supply nutrients and oxygen to the skin. Help regulate body temperature by contracting and expanding the response to external stimuli. Botanical – Extract derived from plants. Botanicals are single compounds that are sometimes used in combination for a more powerful affect. Natural plant extracts are indigenous to many cultures and have been utilized as remedies for inner and outer health. Therapeutic benefits are emphasized in numerous medicine remedies and beauty treatments. Buffer – Usually a solution with a relatively constant acidity/alkalinity ratio used to lengthen the shelf life of the product and make it gentler on the complexion. A typical solution would be hydrochloric acid and sodium hydroxide. C CTFA – Cosmetic, Toiletries, Fragrances Association. An industry organization formed in order to selfregulate the industry rather than allow the FDA to step in and fill the regulatory vacuum with an abundance of forms and regulations. Callous – Hard, tough area of skin created by friction. Color – Heat Carbuncle – Large circumscribed inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue similar to a furuncle, but more extensive. Carrier – Referring to a substance that dispenses the active ingredient in a product. Effects products spreadability, stability and time release of active ingredients. A liposome is an example of a carrier. Cartilage – Connective tissue characterized by lack of blood vessels and is of soft consistency. Catabolism – Breakdown of complex compounds into simpler ones. Catalyst – A substance that accelerates or imitates a chemical reaction but remains unchanged while performing this task many times. Wards ending in “ase” such as “tyrosinase” is an example of the enzyme that initiates the action of melanin production. Cell membrane – B-layer of lipids and protein surrounding the cell. Cellular surface cells or debris – Refers to the natural sloughing off of the stratum corneum (outer epidermis) and is expelled by all living cells. Centistoke – Measure of viscosity (thickness). Chapping – Having or pertaining to skin that is dry, scaly, and fissured (cracked) due to the action of cold or the excess rate of evaporation of moisture from the skin’s surface. Chelating agent – Substance that causes a metal ion to react with a molecule to form a chelate, which is a stable, ring-like structure. Chelating agents are in the EDTA group; EDTA, Disodium EDTA,Trisodium EDTA. Tetrasodium EDTA and Disodium EDTA Copper. It is any compound that binds and precipitates metals such as Ethylenediamine Tetracetic acid (EDTA) that removes trace minerals. Cheloids (keloids) – Nodular, frequently lobulated, firm, moveable, non-encapsulated often-linear mass of hyperplastic scar tissue. It consists of widely irregularly distributed bands of collagenous fibrous tissue. Occurs in the dermis and adjacent subcutaneous tissue, usually after trauma, surgery, a burn, or severe cutaneous disease such as cystic acne, and is more common in non-Caucasians. Chemical – A substance formed by altering the molecular structure of a natural material or the combining of two or more elements to form a new substance. Chloasma – Moth patch, melanoderma or melasma characterized by the occurrence of extensive brown patches of irregular shape and size on the face and elsewhere. Pigmented patches are also known as the mask of pregnancy; associated most commonly with pregnancy, menopause, and oral contraceptives. Certain antibiotics can also sensitize the skin to UV causing excessive pigmentation. Cholesterol – A lipid, and the most abundant steroid in animal tissues. Chromosomes – A body within the cell nucleus containing the biological units of heredity (genes). Chronic – Symptoms of disorder lasting more than a month. Colitis – Inflammation of the colon. Comedogenic – Any agent that may cause comedones; associated with various ingredients rated 0-3 by the Ingredient List of comedogenic Agents. Comedones – Comedo, comedos. Dilated hair follicle infundibulum filled with keratin, squamae, and sebum. Commonly termed as a blackhead. Conductor – Material connecting the two poles which offers resistance of the flow of current. Connective tissue – Fibrous tissue that functions as the supporting framework of the body; holds muscle to the skin, muscle to bone, and bone to muscle. Constitutive skin color – “Normal” skin color generated without exposure to radiation or hormones. Contaminant – Organism such as bacteria, yeast, mold, fungi or any other unwanted substance. Contraindication – Any special circumstance or symptom that renders the use of a remedy inadvisable. Cornified – Hardened such as cornified cells of the stratum corneum. Cosmetic – Preparation applied topically to the skin designed to enhance the appearance. Couperose – Refers to diffuse redness, including telangiectasias of the face and other areas of the body. Cutaneous – Relating to the skin. Cyanosis – Dark bluish or purplish coloration of the skin and mucous membrane due to deficient oxygenation of the blood evident when reduced hemoglobin in the blood exceeds 5g per 100g. Cysts – Severe infection of the follicle that appears as a large, hard and painful lump or swelling underneath the skin’s surface. A severe pimple that takes a longer time to reach the surface of the skin. As it works it way to the surface, it destroys many live cells and leaves a scar; often referred to as “acne pits” or “ice pick” scars. Medical intervention is often used to clear the conditions. Cytochemical – Chemistry of the cell. Cytoplasm – Fluid part of a cell containing organelles. Cytoxity – Condition of damaging or poisoning of a cell. D D&C – Drug and Cosmetic. Colorant approved for use in drugs and cosmetics, but not in food. Decongestant - Substance that causes toxic material that has accumulated in the underlying structure of the skin. Removed through the normal channels of the body’s waste system (lymph). Dehydration – Result of excessive transdermal water loss in the skin causing it to be flaky, dry, fissured, and irritated. Contributing factors are UV exposure, environmental influences, menopause, artificial heat, cigarette smoking, illnesses, and medication. Dendrite – A foot-like projection of a cell, which receives and directs impulses to the cell body. Dermatology – Medical study and science of the structure, functions and diseases of the skin. Dermatosis – Nonspecific term used to denote any cutaneous lesion or group of lesions, or eruptions of any type. Dermis – Fibrous skin layer beneath the epidermis composed primarily of elastin and collagen. Dermatosis – Nonspecific term used to denote any cutaneous lesion or group of lesions or eruptions of any types. Dermis – Fibrous skin layer beneath the epidermis composed primarily of elastin and collagen. Dermography – Form of urticaria in which whealing occurs in the site and in configuration of application of stroking (pressure, friction) of the skin. Desquamation – Sloughing of cells from the stratum corneum. Detergent – An agent that has the ability to act as a surfactant (breaking surface tension) to oil, water, and grime. Any of a group of synthetic, organic, liquid or water soluble cleansing agents that are not prepared from fats and oils and are not inactivated by hard water. Most are made from petroleum derivatives but vary widely in composition. Diabetes – Either diabetes insipidus or diabetes mellitus, diseases having the common symptom of polyuria; when used without qualification, refers to diabetes mellitus. Diapedesis – Migration of cells through blood vessel walls. Differentiation – process of cell acquiring a specialized function. For example, the cells in the epidermis “differentiate” as they migrate from the basal layer to the surface. Direct current – Constant flow of electricity in one direction. Dispersant – Ingredients that bonds with one or more ingredients to disperse or spread the ingredients evenly throughout the product. Assists in stabilization. Diurnal – Occurring and most active during the day. Drug – A substance or preparation applied topically, injected or taken internally which alters the physiological processes of the user. Dye – A soluble colorant that colors each molecule of a substance. E Eczema – Generic term for acute or chronic inflammatory conditions of the skin, typically erythematous, edematous, popular, vesicular, and crusting; followed often by lichenfication and scaling and occasionally by duskiness of the erythema and infrequently, hyperpigmentation. Often accompanied by sensations of itching and burning; the vesicles form by intra epidermal spongiosis. Sometimes referred to colloquially as tetter, dry tetter, and scaly tetter. A very common dermatosis, representing almost half of the professional dermatitis condition. Edema – Accumulation of excess fluid in skin tissue. Elasticity – Pertains to the capacity of the skin to stretch without losing shape. Elastin – Connective tissue that resembles a net-like sheet of fibers that are cross-linked. It is made up of protein and is a major component in the skin, lungs, ligaments and large blood vessels. Elastosis– Degenerative change in elastic tissue, mostly due to excessive sun damage. Electrocautery – Burning with electric current. Electrodessication – Process of destroying tissue, usually hair, by removing all its moisture by means of electric current. Electrolysis – Decomposition of a salt or certain tissue of the body by means of an electric current. Emollient – Products of ingredients which soften and soothe the skin. Usually refers to oil-soluble substances, but can also refer to water-soluble ingredients, especially esters. While the term moisturizer and emollient are often used interchangeably the two functions are different; however, they often occur at the same time. Emulsion Oil and water components blended together creating one substance. Enzyme – Class of protein compounds produced by a living organism that acts as a catalyst capable of accelerating or producing biochemical changes. Also referred to as organized catalysts; they are not consumer in the reactions they catalyze but are regenerated at the end of such reactions. In the food and drug industries, they are referred to as proteases, amylases, lipases, and pectinase. In topical skin care, an enzyme such as Papain and bromelain dissolve the buildup of keratinized cells at the skin’s surface. Ephelis (freckle) – Yellowish or brownish macules developing on the exposed parts of the skin, especially in persons of light complexion. Lesions increase in numbers on exposure to ultra violet light. Epidermis – Outermost layer of the skin containing stratified and cornified cells, melanin, basal cells and lipids. Its function is to help create a barrier for the dermis. Epilepsy – Falling sickness; convulsive state; status convulses; seizure. A chronic disorder characterized by paroxysmal brain dysfunction due to excessive neuronal discharge, and usually associated with some alteration of consciousness. Epithelial – Pertaining to epithelium. Erythema – Inflammatory redness of the skin. Erythrosis – Exaggerated tendency to blush. Eschar – Thick, coagulated crust of slough which develops following a thermal burn, chemical or physical cauterization of the skin. Essential Oils – Essential oils are volatile (evaporating) oils, ethereal oils or essences of natural origin. Usually complex mixtures of organic compounds and generally represent the odoriferous principles of the plants. Obtained mostly from plants by steam distillation, but also from animal sources (musk, ambergris, civet) and by other means. Used in cosmetics, aromatherapy, medicine, perfumery and flavoring. Esters – Compounds formed by a reaction of an acid or alcohol. Usually emollients and mostly designed to promote easier spreadability and penetration. They tend to resist rancidity better than natural oils and are designed to be used in place of these products. Eumelanin – Brown-black pigment; true melanin. Excoriation – Scratch mark. Linear break in the skin surface usually covered with blood or serous crusts. Exfoliate – Removal of dead surface skin through the use of a scrub, peel, enzyme, AHA, or masque. Its purpose is said to prevent hyperkeratinization. Stimulates cell regeneration, circulation, and provides immediate noticeable brightening and smoothing of the skin. Extracellular fluid – Fluid found outside the cell, i.e., blood, water. Extract – Generally, but not necessarily, concentrated forms of natural substances obtained by treating crude materials with a solvent and then removing the solvent completely or partially from the preparation. Examples of extracts are fluid extracts (liquid), solid extracts, powdered extract (dry) tinctures and native. Exudate – Fluid leaking out of a cell. F FCC – Food chemical code. Publication listing standards for foods, supplements and additives employed by the food industry. FD&C – Food, Drug and Cosmetics. Colorant approved for use in food, drugs and cosmetics. Fats – Fats are glycerol esters (glycerides) of fatty acids that are semisolid or solid at room temperatures. They are generally produced from botanicals by expression and from animal materials by extractions or rendering. Fatty Acids – Carboxylic acids obtained from natural sources, mostly from fats; both saturated and unsaturated. Saturated fatty acids are palmitic and stearic acids; unsaturated ones are oleic, linoleic and linolenic acids. Fibroblast – Cell capable of synthesizing collagen and elastin. Fixative – Materials that are usually high boiling and of high molecular weight, that retard evaporation of the more volatile components in perfume formulations. Fixed (fatty) oils – Same as fats and differs only physically from fats in that they are generally liquids at room temperature. Fluid Extracts – Prepared either from native extracts or solid extracts by adjusting the prescribed strength with alcohol and water or by direction extraction of the botanicals with alcohol-water mixtures. Folliculitis – Inflammatory reaction in hair follicles. Lesions may be papules or pustules. Formula – Ingredients that make up a product. Includes percentages of these ingredients, the procedure used to assemble these ingredients when manufacturing a product. Fragrance – Aromatic blend of either (1) essential oils of natural origin; (2) essential oils of natural origin and synthetic fragrance materials; or (3) many component ingredients. Free Radical – Unstable molecules with an impaired electron that becomes highly reactive when exposed to UV rays, excess heat, fatty foods, smoking, and harsh environmental elements. They permeate cell membranes causing destruction and contribute to aging and other diseases in the skin. Free Radical Scavengers – Known as antioxidants, substances contain components that help defend the skin from free radical invasion. Antioxidants taken internal and/or applied topically are credited with reducing free radical damage, thus retarding the process of tissue destruction and aging. Fungi – Plant-like organisms feeding on organic matter. Furfur – Flaky scales of epidermis, especially bits of scurf that form on the scalp and comes off in white or grayish scales. Furuncle – More commonly known as a boil. Caused by bacteria that enters the skin through the hair follicle. Subcutaneous abscess that fills with pus. A boil can be painful and should be treated by a physician. G Galvanic current – direct current. Gelling agent – Ingredient which thickens a product by coagulation to become more elastic, jelly-like or rigid. Glands – Skin contains two types of duct glands that extract materials from the blood to different substances. Sudoriferous (sweat) glands secrete sweat. Sebaceous (oil) glands secrete sebum. Glossing Agent – Ingredient which dispenses other ingredients evenly throughout a formula to produce an overall glossy appearance to the product. Glycosides – Sugar containing compounds which on hydrolysis yield one or more sugars. Considered to be a very important group of natural products, are widely present in plants, and constitute major classes of drugs. Found in grape skin, alfalfa and licorice for example. Ground – Large conducting body used as a common return for current relative zero electrical potential. Ground substance – Extracellullar material of the dermis, i.e., glycosoaminoglycans. Gum Resin – Resins occurring and mixed with gums. Usually contain small amounts of volatile oils and are sometimes referred to as oleogum resins. H HIV – Abbreviation for human immunodeficiency virus. Hemophilia – Hereditary disease transmitted by women and affecting men. An inherited disorder of blood coagulation characterized by a permanent tendency to hemorrhages, spontaneous or traumatic, due to a defect in the blood coagulating mechanism. Hepatic – A term referring to the liver billary secretions. Herpes – Viral disease marked by groups o watery blisters on the skin or mucous membranes such as the mouth, lips, or genitals. High Frequency – Alternating current. Holocrine Gland – A gland that secretes it own cells; the sebaceous gland. Humectant – Substance that preserves the moisture content in a product, especially in crèmes and lotions. Attracts moisture from many places, including eh environment, the product it is in or from the skin. Hydrate – To build or add moisture. Hydrocarbon – Chain of carbon and hydrogen molecules linked together. Hydrolysis (Hydrolyzed) – Process of making a complex substance into a simpler molecular structure by the uptake of water. Allows for greater penetration and better absorption by the skin. Hydroscopic – Refers to an ingredient that has the ability to retain and absorb moisture. Hyperkeratinization (hyperkeratosis, keratoderma) – Excessive development of horny structures (thickened skin) caused by lack of adequate exfoliation. Hyperkeratinization appears a dull, lifeless complexion, formation of comedones and pimples because it causes obstruction of the orifice, therefore, preventing sebum to freely reach the skin surface. Hyperkeratotic – Excessively producing keratin, resulting in rough, hard skin. Hyperplasia – Excessive growth of cells. Hyperproliferate – To excessively reproduce cells as in psoriasis. Hypertrichosis – Excessive abnormal growth of hair. Hypesthesia (hypoesthesia) – Diminished sensitivity to stimulation. Reduced sensitivity to the touch. Hypoallergenic – Products or ingredients less likely to cause an allergic reaction in people who are prone to allergies. Prior to making a “hypoallergenic” claim, a product must undergo a Repeat Insult Patch Test performed on a panel of no fewer than 200 human subjects, with positive results. Hypokeratinization hyperkeratosis) – Insufficient development of horny structures (thin skin). I Ichthyosis – Congenital disorder of Keratinization characterized by dryness and fish-skin-like scaling. Often associated with other defects. Distinguishable genetically, clinically, microscopically, and by epidermal cell kinetics. Also called “alligator” or “fish skin.” Infusion – Dilute aqueous extracts containing water-soluble ingredients of botanicals. Prepared by extracting the botanical with boiling water. An example is herbal tea. Inorganic – Substances that are not hydrocarbons or their derivative. Usually minerals that do not have the structure or organization characteristic of living bodies. Intercellular space – Space between the cells. Interstitial fluid – Fluid spaces between cells or structures. Intraepidermal – Within the epidermis. Iontophoresis – Delivery system which transfers medicaments by direct currents. Irritant – Substance which consistently and predictably produces an adverse response such as reddening, swelling, itching, burning or blistering. Many irritants are harmless in small quantities, becoming harmful only in their pure form or in large percentages of the total formula. Irritants are not to be confused with allergies. Ischemia – Lack of blood and oxygen. K Keloid - Hyperplastic scar tissue. See Cheloid. Keratin - Fibrous protein that is part of the stratum corneum, hair and fingernails. Keratolytic – Substances that contain the ability to loosen corneocyte adhesions between cells allowing for them to slough. Keratosis (Keratiasis) – Any lesion of the epidermis marked by the presence of circumscribed overgrowths of the horny layer. Keratosis pilaris - Area of skin marked by overgrowth of horny tissue, center of which is formed by an entrapped hair. Keratosis Senile (senilis) – Skin disease observed in elderly persons and complicating the atrophy of the skin. Characterized by dry brown spots, which gradually are covered by more or less thick overgrowth of horny tissue, under which the skin is irregular and bloody. Actinic keratosis. L Lamellar bodies – Complex lipids that form part of the corneocyte barrier. Lentigo – Small melanotis spot in which formation of pigment is unrelated to exposure to sunlight. Potentially malignant. Freckle. Leukocyte – Infection fighting, white blood cell; basophils, neutrophils, monocytes, eosinophils are all leukocytes. Lipids – Oily materials such as fats and waxes; not soluble in water. Provides in impermeable barrier protecting against invasion of foreign substances as well as acting against moisture loss. Lipolytic – Capable of breaking down lipids. Liposomes – Vesicle that forms when phospholipids hydrate in water; liposomes can be “loaded” with either oil-soluble or water-soluble ingredient and penetrates the skin quite easily to bring moisture, emollience and captured ingredients to the targeted site. Lubricant – Oil, oil-rich cream or lotion designed to provide a slippery feel, sleek luster, and reduce tightness due to lack of surface oil to the skin. Although lubricants do slow moisture loss, this action should not be confused with building moisture. Lymph – Clear fluid collected from the tissues of the body, flows through the lymphatic vessels, and is added to the venous circulation. Contains a clear fluid, some white and a few red blood cells. M Macrophage - Phagocyte involved in many immune functions, one that is removing cellular debris. Macula (spot, macule) – Anatomical structure having the form of a small discolored patch or spot, differentiated from surrounding tissues which disappears momentarily when pressure is applied. Malignant – Severe form of an illness, usually resistant treatment such as cancer. Mast Cell – Cell which releases histamine, causing redness and swelling of a wound. Matte finish – Even-toned, non-shiny surface quality. Melanin – Coloring matter in the skin deposited in the stratum germinativum (lowest layer of the 5 layers in the epidermis). Pigment becomes activated within a melanocyte cell when exposed to ultraviolet. Its intensity varies according to genetic traits. Melanocytes – Cells that produce pigment granules scattered throughout the basal layer of the epidermis. Derived from nerve tissue and produce pigment granules passed on to the epidermal cells that synthesize keratin, giving the skin most of its color (melanin). Melanocytic nevus (birthmark) – Circumscribed malformation of the skin, especially if colored by hyperpigmentation or increased vascularity. Melanocytic verrucous nevus: skin-colored or darker wartlike, often linear appearing at birth or early in childhood, and occurring in various sizes and locations, single or multiple. Pigmented hair epidermal nevus; (Becker’s nevus). Pigmented hairy epidermal nevus; a nevus first seen as an irregular pigmentation of the shoulders, upper chest, or scapular area, gradually enlarging irregularly and becoming thickened and hairy. Melanogenesis – Creation of melanin. Metabolism – Chemical process with the body which break down substances (fat, glucose) into smaller components to release energy, used to build other substances (such as protein). Miconazole – Antifungal agent. Milium (milia) – Small whitish pearl-like (tuberculum sebaceum) mass due to retention of dead, keratinized cells and sebaceous matter trapped beneath the epidermis; a whitehead. Mineral – Inorganic substance occurs in its natural state; usually salts and oxides considered essential for humans. Mitochondria – Organelle in nucleus of cell responsible for energy production. Mitosis – Process of dividing cells. Moisturizer – Any product or ingredient, which builds the skin’s moisture level by either retarding water evaporation of adding moisture. Molecular Weight – Indicative of the size of the chemical compound. Molluscum pendulum – Fibrous and flabby tumor of the skin. Protuberance may be flat or spread, depressed to the touch, protruding or even pedicellated. Size may vary from a pinhead to an orange or more. Monocyte – Macrophage in the blood stream. Mucopolysaccharide – Complex of protein mucopolysaccharides (glycosoaminoglycans). and polysaccharides. Blood substances are Mycosis – Disease caused by fungus or yeast. N NDC – National Drug Code. The number code assigned to each manufacturer and/or packer of drugs. NF – National Formulary. Book that lists the standards of purity as well as assay methods for ingredients used by pharmacists to prepare salves, ointments and lotion. Natural – Substances that occur in their unprocessed form. In cosmetics, the term refers to products made from ingredients derived from natural materials that are usually organic in nature. Neoplasia – Growth of new cells. Neuritis – Inflammation of a nerve associated with neuralgia, hyperesthesia, anesthesia, paresthesia, paralysis, muscular atrophy in the region supplied by the affected nerve, and with absence of reflexes. Neuron – Nerve cell. Nodules – Small mass of rounded or irregular shape. Small, circumscribed solid elevation that usually extends into the deep layers of the skin. Non-sensitive – Reduce sensitivity to the environment or other ingredients. Nucleus – Oval or rounded part of a cell (distinct from the cytoplasm) contains organelles and divides to reproduce the cell. Contains DNA and RNA. Nutrient – Substance such as a vitamin, provides elements for the ongoing functioning of the body’s metabolic process. O OTC – Over-the-counter drugs. Non-prescription drug subject to FDA regulations and must be manufactured, packaged and distributed according to Federal Law. Occlusive – Materials such as oils and waxes which cannot be penetrated by water. Occlusive shield or film that is spread onto the skin to slow or present moisture from evaporating. Ohm – Measure of electrical resistance. Opacifying System – To make opaque or non-clear. Example would be pearlizing in a cleanser. Opaque – Opposite of transparent, dense coverage, however, light is allowed to penetrate. Organelle – body within the cytoplasm of a cell with a specialized function. Organic – Substances that are or have been alive and contain carbon molecules in their chemical structure. Osteoarthritis – Degenerative joint disease, chiefly of the knee and hip, mainly affecting weightbearing joints in older persons. Otitis – Inflammation of the ear. Oxidation – Chemical reaction in which a molecule gains an atom of oxygen. P pH – Directly defined as power of the hydrogen molecule. Amount of hydrogen present in a substance determines the acid or alkaline level of a product. In the skin it is the pH of the acid mantle (the protective fluid made up of perspiration, oils and other debris lying over the horny layer) considered important in the health of the skin. PH at the skin’s surface in normally between 4.5-5.5. Papillary Varis – Referred to capillary hemangioma simplex or nevus vascularis. Small, pearl-like angioma, the size of a needle head or slightly larger, seemingly embedded in the dermis. Papule – Small, circumscribed, solid elevation on the skin involving predominantly the epidermis or the dermis, depending on the type of pathological process. If may contain trapped sebum and bacteria that causes tissue swelling and inflammation due to prolonged follicular congestion. Papulopustules – Small, semi-solid skin elevation which rapidly evolves into a pustule. Pathogenicity – Condition of being able to cause disease. Permanently Approved Color – Color used in cosmetics with the approval of the FDA whose safety has been proven through the investigation by a committee of the CTFA. Permeable – Allowing substances to flow into or out of such as fluid substances moving in and out of the cell membrane through a process called “osmosis.” Phaeomelanin – Yellow pigment similar to melanin, but containing cysteine. Phospholipid – Lipid containing phosphorus. Phlyctena – Blister, bulla, vesicle, vesicular. Swelling of the epidermis filled with transparent serous fluid such as after severe sunburn or first-degree burn. Photodamage – Harmful effects of the sun resulting in thickening of the skin, roughness and/or hyperpigmentation. Photosynthesize – To make sensitive to ultraviolet light. Fragrances primarily of the citrus family are known photosynthesizes. Many antibiotics and hormones may cause photosensitivity. Reactions appear as a reddening to dark spots on exposed skin. Phyto – Pertaining to plants. Phytotherapy is plan therapy. Phyto oils are plant oils. Phytoestrogens are plant components that tend to mimic human estrogenic characteristics in the cells. Pigment – coloring agent in skin or hair. Pigmentary spots – Coloration either normal or pathologic, resulting from a deposit of pigment. Pilosebaceous apparatus – consists of the hair, follicle, and sebaceous duct gland. Pimples – When follicles become filled with oil, dead cells and bacteria swell and ruptures through the wall follicle escaping into the dermis. The debris is irritating and causes inflammation. White blood cells rush to fight against the bacteria and create “pus,” a yellowish secretion. Pituitary gland – The “master gland” located at the base of the brain; controls much of the hormonal activity of the body. Pityriasis – Patchy hypopigmentation resulting from mild dermatitis. desquamation, furfuraceous, of the horny layer. Non-inflammatory Pityriasis verisicolor (tinea) – Eruption of tan or brown patches on the trunk, often appearing white, in contrast with hyperpigmented skin after exposure to strong ultra violet rays. Polarity – Property of having two opposite poles; possession of opposite characteristics. Polymers – Substance of a chain of identical units, such as a chain of glucose molecules. Highly efficient delivery system of lubricants and protectants to the skin. Preservative - Ingredients that keep dangerous organisms such as bacteria, fungi, yeast and mold from growing in products. Proliferation – Growth and reproduction. Protective film – Film made up of ingredients, which cling to the skin’s surface to protect it from harsh or threatening environmental influences. Proteoglycan – Component of ground substance. Provisionally Approved Color – Color used in cosmetics with approval of the FDA pending an investigation of its safety in cosmetics by a committee of the CTFA. Pruritus – Itching, may be associated with prickly heat. Intense itching produced by brief contact with water at any temperature; associated with local release of acetylcholine, mast-cell degranulation, and raised histamine concentrations. Itching may be produced by inadequate rinsing off of soap or by over drying of skin from excessive bathing. May be a result of aging. Psoriasis – Condition characterized by the eruption of circumscribed, discrete and confluent, reddish, silvery-scaled maculopapules normally occurring on the elbows, knees, scalp and trunk. Pumice – Porous, lightweight, abrasive volcanic stone used to soften and polish hard, tough, or calloused skin. Pus – Fluid product of inflammation, containing dead white blood cells and other debris. Pustule– Small circumscribed elevation of skin containing pus and having an inflamed base. Q Quantum– Smallest unit of energy. R RNA – Ribonucleic acid found in the cell’s nucleic material is responsible for working with the DNA. Regenerative – Recreation of living material or a renewed functioning. Term used to describe the word “healing” when used in description of an ingredient used in a skin care product. Regime – Daily routine in the application of skin care products. Reticular dermis – Layer of the dermis composed of a fine network of cells that make up connective tissue and fibers between the cells. Rhinophyma – Hypertrophy of the nose with follicular dilation, resulting from hyperplasia to sebaceous glands with fibrosis and increased vascularity. Also referred to as hypertrophic rosacea. Ribosome – Structure found on the rough endoplasmic reticulum that assist in the synthesis of protein in the cell. Rosacea – Also called “acne rosacea,” rosacea is a chronic inflammation of the skin that causes painful eruptions, usually around the cheek, nose, and at times around the chin area. Characterized by redness, dilation of the blood vessels, and the formation of the papules and pustules. Over time, the skin becomes coarse and the pores enlarged. May be caused by genetic traits, poor digestion and the Demodex mite. Heat, alcohol, extreme temperatures, faulty elimination, hyperacidity, and highly seasoned foods tend to trigger flares. S SD Alcohol (SDA) – Specially denatured alcohol. unpleasant substances. Ethyl alcohol made non-drinkable by adding SPF – Sun Protection Factor. Numerical rating on sunscreen and sun blocks that indicate the level of protection from UV radiation. Scars – Fibrous tissue replacing normal tissue destroyed by injury or disease. Sebaceous Cyst – Pilar or trichilemmal cyst; common cyst of the skin and subcutis containing sebum and keratin, lined by pale, staining, stratified epithelial cells derived from the pilosebaceous apparatus. Seborrhea – Excessive sebum secretion where skin becomes rapidly oily and shiny with 1-2 hours after cleansing. May also be a result of hyperkeratinization. Sebum – Semi-liquid oil secreted by the sebaceous apparatus that flows to the skin’s surface. Secretions – Production by a cell or aggregation of cells (a gland) of a physiologically useful substance and its introduction into the body by direct diffusion or by a duct. Senile Lentigo – Liver spot; a variably pigmented lentigo occurring on exposed skin of older Caucasians. Sensitizer – Ingredient that causes the skin to become sensitive to other ingredients or the environment. It also refers to an ingredient that causes the skin to produce an adverse physical reaction such as redness, swelling, blistering or itching. Sequestrant – Ingredient that releases itself or other ingredients slowly into a product over a period of time. Usually refers to preservatives that have a “time-release” action in maintaining the color, consistency and fragrance. Sinusitis – Inflammation of a sinus of the skull. Sloughing – Shedding of an outer layer of hornified tissue from a living structure such as the skin. Soluble – Ability to dissolve into, or being compatible with another substance. Soothing – Calming ingredient. Reduces the discomfort of irritated, blemished, burning skin. Spasm – Involuntary muscular contraction; if painful, usually referred to as a cramp; if violent, a convulsion. Muscle spasm: increased muscular tension and shortness that cannot be released voluntarily and prevents lengthening of the muscles involved. Spasm is due to painful stimuli to the lower motor neuron. Sphingolipid – Lipid containing a long chain base. Spider vein – Arterial spider angioma generally found on the face and legs; a red spot producing telangiectasia. Squama – Structure resembling a scale. An epidemic scale made up of thin flat cells. Stabilizer – An ingredient that makes a product stable, keeping it from losing its viscosity, separating or becoming rancid. Steatoma – Sebaceous cyst. Subcutaneous tumor of the sebaceous gland in which the contents consist of sebum. Steatoma usually occurs on the scalp, neck and back. Steroid – A large family of chemical substances comprising many hormones, vitamins, body constituents and drugs. Sterol – A steroid. Stimulant – An ingredient, usually and herb or vitamin, which quickens or increases body activities such as blood flow, waste removal, cell reproduction or metabolic functions. Stratum corneum – Flat, cornified (keratinized) skin cells that form a protective outer layer. Also known as the horny later. Stretchmarks – Bands of thin wrinkled skin, initially red but becoming purple and white, occur commonly on the abdomen, buttocks, and thighs at puberty and/or during and following pregnancy. Result from atrophy of the dermis and overextension of the skin. Subcutaneous – Below the skin. Substantive – Refers to the ability of an ingredient to be retained in the hair of the skin. Substrate – Substance an enzyme acts upon. Sudoriferous (sweat) glands – Tube-like structures (duct) that ends at the skin surface to form the sweat pore. Almost all parts of the body have sweat glands. They regulate body temperature and help eliminate waste products. Controlled by the nervous system. Sunscreen – Preparation that blocks harmful, burning sunrays. Surfactant – Abbreviation of the term “surface-active” agent. Wetting agent that reduces the surface tension of oils, grease and other substances allowing them to be broken up into smaller particles to facilitate cleansing and promote easier spreadability and penetration. Synthetic – Material formed by combining simple element structure. Most parent elements used to manufacture synthetic cosmetic ingredients are of natural origin. T T-Zone – T-shaped area of the face formed by the forehead, nose and chin. These areas tend to be oilier than other parts of the face. Tactily – Using the fingertips. Telangiectasia – Dilation of previously existing small or terminal vessels. Lesion formed by a dilated capillary or terminal artery, most commonly on the skin. Telomere – Before a cell divides, it copies it chromosomes to give each new cell a complete set. In most cells, however, this process does not include the long spirals of DNA called telomeres, which protect the ends of every chromosome. Telomeres get shorter with each cell division. Some scientists believe they are so short that the cell can no longer divide and becomes vulnerable to damage and decay. Texture – Ingredients or product which dramatically and noticeably smoothes and soften the skin’s surface. Thickener – Ingredient that increases viscosity of a product. Thickness of the skin – Varies from one geographical cultural region and from one individual to the other. Essential to differentiate thickness of the epidermis and thickness of the skin, which refers to the epidermis, dermis and hypodermis. Minimal thickness of the epidermis at the eyelid level is of 0.04mm maximal thickness of palms and soles I 1.5mm. Average thickness varies from 0.006 to 1 mm. Thrombosis – Formation or presence of a thrombus; clotting within a blood vessel that may cause infraction of tissues supplied by the vessel. Tincture - Slight infusion of alcohol and water. Toning – Restoring color and tone to the skin. Toxic – Poisonous. Tuberculoses – Highly variable communicable disease caused by the presence of Mycobacterium tuberculosis and characterized by toxic symptoms or allergic manifestations which primarily affect the lungs. U U.S.P. – The United States Pharmacopoeia. A book of standards for purity, formulas and chemical assay methods of actual drugs. Ulcers – Lesion on the surface of the skin or a mucous surface, caused by superficial loss of tissue, usually with inflammation. A wound with superficial loss of tissue from trauma is not primarily an ulcer, but may become ulcerated if infection occurs. Ultraviolet – Range of light wavelengths between violet radiation in the visible spectrum and the invisible x-ray spectrum. Such rays can be harmful to the skin. V Vacuole – Cavity in the cytoplasm of a cell which may act as a stomach. Varicose veins – Varix, varicosis. Dilated vein, enlarge and painful vein, artery, or lymphatic vessel. Vascular – Pertaining to, or containing, blood vessels. Vasoconstriction – Constriction, or shrinking in diameter, of blood vessels. Vesicle – Small abnormal elevation of the outer layer of skin enclosing a serious liquid; a blister or bulla. PRODUCT INGREDIENTS Vitamin Veil Cleanser Soybean Oil (Glycine Soya), Isopropyl Palmitate, Tocopherol (Vitamin E Acetate), Propylparaben, Fragrance, BHT, OPC CLR01 Lipid Replacing Cleansing Gel Deionized Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Potassium C12-13 Monoalkyl Phosphate/Polysorbate 60, Potassium C12-13 Monoalkyl Phosphate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Citric Acid, Linoleamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Hepes Acetate, Propylene glycol, Panthenol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Allantoin, Sodium Chloride, Methylparaben, Octoxynol 9, Fragrance, Propylparaben Cleansing Gel with Salicylic Acid Deionized Water (Aqua), Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Milkamidopropyl Betaine, Linoleamidopropyl PGDimonium Chloride Phosphate, Sodium Chloride, Hepes Acetate, Panthenol, Octoxyol-9, Fragrance, Methylchloroisothiazolinone/Methylisothiazolinone Post Peel Lotion Deionized Water, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether, Linoleic Esters, Squalane, Glycerin, Carbomer, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Panthenol, Allantoin, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Alpha Bisabolol, Beta Glucan, Tetrasodium EDTA, Fragrance, Propylparaben CM05 Light Day Cream SPF 30 Active Ingredients: Octyl Methoxycinnamate (6.5%), Octyl Salicylate (4.0%), Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, (2.5%), Titanium Dioxide (2.0%) Other Ingredients: Deionized Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Glycerin, Linoleic Ester, Titanium Dioxide, Avena Sativa (Oat Protein), Carbomer, Sorbitan Oleate, Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Disodium EDTA, Allantoin, Lentinula Edodes (Shitake Mushroom) Extract CR08 Daytime Control Lotion Deionized Water (Aqua), Hexyldecanol, Methyl Propanediol, Ethoxydiglycol, Benzoyl Peroxide 2.5%, Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteath-20, Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate, Linoleic Ester, Octyl Methoxycinnamate, Cyclomethicone and dimethiconol, Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Evening Primrose (Oenothera biennis) Oil, Vitamin E Acetate, Allantoin Night Time Control Lotion Deionized Water (Aqua), Benzoyl Peroxide 5.0%, Hexyldecanol, Ethoxydiglycol, Methyl Propanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteath-20, Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate, Linoleic Ester, Cyclomethicone and dimethiconol, Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Evening Primrose Oil (Oenothera biennis), Vitamin E Acetate, Allantoin Circadia Night Repair Cream Deionized Water, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Ethoxydiglycol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Saccharide Isomerate, Avena Sativa (Oat Protein), Glycerin, Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins, Polysaccharides, Linoleic Ester, Diazolidinyl Urea, Carbomer, Titanium Dioxide, Vitamin E Acetate, dl-Tocopherol, Vitamin A Acetate, Methylparaben, Tetrasodium EDTA, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Butylated Hydrdoxytoluene, Propylparaben, Genistein, Beta Glucan CM09 Circadia Plus Night Repair Cream Deionized Water, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isopropyl Palmitate, Saccharide Isomerate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cetyl Alcohol, Steareth 10, Avena Sativa (Oat Protein), Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Lipoic Acid, L-Tyrosine, Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins, Linoleic Ester, Vitamin A Acetate, Tocopherol (Vitamin E Acetate), Diazolidinyl Urea, dl-Tocopherol, Tetrasodium EDTA, Ascorbyl Palmitate (vitamin C), Ursolic Acid, Genistein, Polypeptide 5, Beta Glucan, Fragrance, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Diazolidinyl Urea Vitamin A Rx Cream Deionized water, Cetearyl alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Dipentaerythrityl Hexaheptanoate/Hexacaprylate/Hexacaprate, Stearyl alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Vitamin A, Polyacrylamide and C13-14 isoparaffin and laureth-7, Propylene glycol, Glucose oxidase, Diazolidinyl urea, Vitamin E Acetate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, BHT, BHA. Rosacea Rx Cream Deionized Water, Linoleic Ester, Rosmarinus Chinensis (Rosemary) Oil, Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Carbomer, Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Ursolic Acid, Propylparaben Hydrating Cream Deionized Water (Aqua), Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Cetearyl Alcohol and Ceteareth 20, Glycerin, Avocado (Persea Gratissima) Oil, Avocado (Persea Gratissima) Extract, Olive (Olea Europoea) Oil, OPC, Stearyl Alcohol, Macadamia Ternifolia Nut Oil, Phenyl Trimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Hepes Linoleate, Phenoxyethanol, Soybean (Glycine Soja), Diazolidinyl Urea, diPanthenol, Benzyl Alcohol, Acrylates/C10-C30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Methylparaben, and Propylparaben, Tocopheryl Acetate. Emergency Eye Lift Sodium Hyaluronate, Deionized Water (Aqua), Galactomannanes, dl-panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Methylparaben, Propylparaben C03 Vitamin C Reversal Serum Sodium Hyaluronate, Aqua (Deionized Water), Magnesium L-Ascorbyl-2-Phosphate, Propylene Glycol, dl-Panthenol, Diazolidinyl Urea, Theophylline Acetate, Methylparaben, Triethanolamine, Propylparaben C04 MyoRx Acetyl hexapeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Hyaluronic Acid, Passion Flower Extract, L-Proline, L-Serine Moisture on Demand Deionized Water, Glyceryl Stearate and PEG-100 Stearate, Saccharide Isomerate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Polysorbutane, Steareth 20, Phospholipids-Sphingolipids, Buxus Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Avena Sativa (Oat Protein), Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Chitosan Lactate, Linoleic Esters, Phenoxyethanol, OPC Ester, Diazolidinyl Urea, Tetrasodium EDTA, Vitamin E Acetate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Fragrance C11 White Veil Lightener (Deionized Water), Glyceryl Stearate and PEG 100 Stearate, Niacinamide, Vitamin C, Arbutin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dimethicone, Jojoba Oil, Steareth 20, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Oat Protein, Butylene Glycol Synthetic Beeswax, OPC (1%), Vitamin E Acetate, Diazolidinyl Urea, Carbomer, Tetrasodium EDTA, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylated Hydroxytulene Firming and Shaping Gel Aqua (Deionized Water), Theo C, SD39C Alcohol, Algsium C, Coleus, Aesculus Hippocastanum (Horsechestnut), Germaben II, Carbopol 981, TEA, Genistein, L-Carnitine, Tween80, EDTA, Cornmint Oil Vitage Sea cucumber, Ursolic Acid, Beta Glucan, OPC(Oligomeric Proanthocyanidins), Condroitin Sulfate