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PARTICIPANTS PROGRAMME EMMA-JAYNE ABBOTS Research Associate SOAS Food Studies Centre Email: [email protected] TOM SELWYN Visiting Professor Department of Anthropology, SOAS Email: [email protected] GRACIA CLARK Professor of Anthropology Indiana University Email: [email protected] JOSÉ SOBRAL Senior Research Fellow Insituto de Ciênsias Sociais (ICS) University of Lisbon Email: [email protected] JACK GOODY Emeritus Professor Department of Anthropology University of Cambridge Email: [email protected] JAMES STAPLES Senior Lecturer Department of Anthropology, Brunel University Email: [email protected] JAKOB KLEIN Lecturer in Social Anthropology, SOAS Deputy Chair, SOAS Food Studies Centre Email: [email protected] JAMES L. WATSON Fairbank Professor of Chinese Society and Professor of Anthropology, Emeritus Harvard University Email: [email protected] STEPHEN MENNELL Professor Emeritus, School of Sociology University College Dublin Email: [email protected] ANNE MURCOTT Professorial Research Associate, SOAS Food Studies Centre Honorary Professor, School of Sociology and Social Policy, University of Nottingham Email: [email protected] JOHAN POTTIER Professor of Anthropology with reference to Africa SOAS Email: [email protected] HARRY WEST Professor of Anthropology, SOAS Chair, SOAS Food Studies Centre Email: [email protected] RICHARD WILK Provost Professor of Anthropology Indiana University Email: [email protected] SAMI ZUBAIDA Professorial Research Associate, SOAS Food Studies Centre Emeritus Professor of Politics and Sociology, Birkbeck College Email: [email protected] FRANÇOISE SABBAN Director of Studies and Research Director Centre d’études sur la Chine moderne et contemporaine Ecoles des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales (EHESS) Email: [email protected] CENTRES & PROGRAMMES OFFICE SOAS, University of London Design: RB, Centres & Programmes Office, SOAS, ~ 2012 SOAS FOOD STUDIES CENTRE SYMPOSIUM 19 & 20 March 2012 SOAS, University of London Convenors Dr Jakob A. Klein Professor Anne Murcott Cooking, Cuisine and Class in the Anthropology of Food Today 2012 marks the 30th anniversary of the publication of Jack Goody’s Cooking, Cuisine and Class: A Study in Comparative Sociology (Cambridge University Press). In this ambitious book, Goody compares the culinary cultures of preindustrial ‘Eurasia’ with those of sub-Saharan Africa, and seeks to explain why it is that differentiated, ‘high’ and ‘low’ cuisines developed across the former, but not in the latter. In the second part of the book, Goody considers the emergence of a ‘world cuisine’ of industrialized foods, and examines the role this plays in local contexts, particularly within the emerging class system of postcolonial Ghana. Goody’s book was a seminal intervention in the anthropological study of food. Moving beyond sterile debates between proponents of ‘symbolic’ and ‘materialist’ approaches to food classifications, it encouraged serious attention to questions of power and inequality; to comparative understandings of historical processes – including ‘globalization’ – which both differentiated ‘food systems’ and articulated them; and to the complex interaction between symbolic systems, on the one hand, and situated practices of producing, distributing, preparing and consuming food, on the other. In doing so, Cooking, Cuisine and Class was instrumental in transforming the study of food from a long-standing but often marginalized interest among social anthropologists, to what has become a major area of enquiry in anthropology and cognate disciplines, including sociology and history. In recognition of the enduring influence of Cooking, Cuisine and Class, the symposium convenes leading and emerging anthropologists, sociologists and social historians of food, based in the UK and internationally, at the SOAS Food Studies Centre to discuss themes raised in Goody’s work. Participants working in and between Asia, Africa, the Middle East, Europe, and the Americas will discuss their own research in relation to broader theoretical, methodological and empirical developments in the study of food in their respective regions, particularly in the last thirty years. The symposium – and the published workshop volume – will thus provide a broad-based and critical assessment of the current state and future possibilities of food studies, particularly within anthropology. Funded by a research grant from the SOAS Faculty of Arts and Humanities You are also invited to our upcoming event... 19 March 2012 / ROOM 116 10:00-10:30 Welcome ~ Refreshments 10:30-12:00 Sami Zubaida: ‘Food for Drink: Mezze, Tapas and Co.’ Discussant: Tom Selwyn 12:00-14:00 Lunch 14:00-15:30 Françoise Sabban: ‘The milk issue in China: past and present’ Discussant: Jakob Klein 15:30-15:45 Tea & Coffee Break 15:45-17:15 José Sobral: ‘The high and the low in the making of the Portuguese national cuisine’ Discussant: Richard Wilk 17:15-18:45 Stephen Mennell: ‘Indigestion in the Long Nineteenth Century: Aspects of English Taste and Anxiety, 1800-1950’ Discussant: Anne Murcott 19:15 Dinner SOAS FOOD STUDIES CENTRE DISTINGUISHED LECTURE 2012 Salt Water Margin: Red Rice, Reclamations, and Restaurateurs along the South China Coast (An Ethnographic Puzzle) 20 March 2012 / RUSSELL ROOM 09:15 Refreshments 09:30-11:00 James Staples: ‘Civilising tastes: from caste to class in South Indian foodways’ Discussant: Stephen Mennell 11:00-12:30 Gracia Clark: ‘From Fasting to Fast Food in Kumasi, Ghana’ Discussant: Harry West 12:30-14:30 Lunch 14:30-16:00 Johan Pottier: ‘Catering and Class in East London: The Bangladeshi experience’ Discussant: James L. Watson 16:00-16:15 Tea & Coffee Break 16:15-17:45 Emma-Jayne Abbots: ‘The Fast and the Fusion: Class, Colonialism and the Remaking of Comida Típica in Highland Ecuador’ Discussant: Richard Wilk 17:45-18:45 Concluding Discussion 19:15 Dinner James L. Watson (Fairbank Professor of Chinese Society and Professor of Anthropology, Emeritus, Harvard University) Thursday, 22 March 2012 @ 7pm Khalili Lecture Theatre, SOAS, University of London This event is free and open to the public but booking is essential. FOR MORE INFORMATION & TO REGISTER, PLEASE VISIT: Organiser: SOAS Food Studies Centre Centres & Programmes Office Contact: [email protected] or Tel: 020 7898 4892/3 facebook.com/Centres.SOAS www.soas.ac.uk/foodstudies/forum/lectures SOAS, University of London Thornhaugh Street, Russell Square, London WC1H 0XG twitter.com/soascentres www.soas.ac.uk Design: RB, Centres & Programmes Office (REO), SOAS