Download The truth about preservatives

Ingredients Factsheet
The truth about
preservatives
Several of our skincare formulations are preservative-free. In others, we use a wide range of
different types of safe, effective, broad-spectrum preservatives. Why are preservatives needed
in skincare and are there any dangers associated with their use? In particular, parabens have
had a very bad press - why is this and should we be concerned? This factsheet has been
written to provide accurate information for anyone concerned about these issues.
Understanding parabens
Parabens are a family of ingredients widely found in nature, especially
in foods such as fruits. They are esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid,
hence their name, and include methylparaben (E 218), and
propylparaben (E 216). These compounds and their salts have been
used since the early 1920s as broad-spectrum preservatives in both
food and skincare as they have excellent bacteriocidal and fungicidal
properties. In nature, they are the reason some fruits stay fresh longer
than others, such as blueberries compared to raspberries. We eat
them in foods such as apples, blackcurrants, carrots, onions, grapes,
yeast extract, wine vinegar and cheese. Studies show parabens are
present in foods at a level of around 600 ppm (parts per million).
Natural vanilla extract is especially high in methyl paraben as it is one
of its four main flavour components (it is also a natural component of
plant lignin). Although paraben preservatives are created synthetically
(it would be too expensive to extract the small amounts found in foods),
the compounds are nature identical. This means that the paraben
molecules synthesized and used as preservatives are absolutely identical
on every level - molecular, structural and biochemical - to those found
in fruits and other plants.
Many plants and some insects contain parabens and one interesting
aspect of this is their ability to increase biodegradability in soils, ditch
and drain water, river water and sludge treatment works. Studies by
E. G. Beveridge et al show that the esters of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl,
iso-propyl, n-butyl and iso-butyl parabens all assist in the breakdown
and cleansing of water and are intrinsic to all aerobic and anaerobic
plant and animal life. Parabens are frequent in nature and can be
considered to be ‘green’, biodegradable and natural.
Are parabens safe?
Unlike some other preservative systems, parabens have a long
established history of safety and are highly effective, which is why
they are so widely used in the food, pharmaceutical and beauty
industries. They are considered safe because of their low toxicity
as well as being rapidly metabolised and excreted when eaten in
foods: i.e. they don’t accumulate or get stored in the tissues of the
body. Traces of parabens’ breakdown products are normally found
in the urine of healthy people as they are a natural by-product of
the amino acid tyrosine (found in many foods and some health food
supplements) being broken down by the digestive process. Studies
show that the presence of parabens and their breakdown products
in urine is perfectly normal and the parabens could be there as a
result of food and not necessarily from absorption through the skin
of skincare products. Far from being dangerous, the main precursor
of the parabens 4-hydroxybenzoic acid is actually also a precursor
for ubiquinones (Co-enzyme Q10) which is essential for healthy
oxygenation of our bodies (some people take additional dietary
supplements of Co-enzyme Q10 to help increase energy levels).
On the skin, parabens are generally non-irritating and non-sensitising
unless you have a specific paraben allergy.
So why the negative publicity?
The reason for the bad press comes from both misinterpretation
and flawed scientific studies: a study in 1998 by Dr Routledge et al
reported mild oestrogenic activity in some paraben esters (no activity
was discovered in methyl paraben). However, the activity was so
weak it was almost undetectable, being 100,000 times weaker than
oestradiol (the reference standard against which all oestrogenic activity
is measured). Some oestrogens are known to increase the growth of
tumours, although that is not the case here as the mutagenic activity
of oestrogens depends on different free radical chemistry. However,
this first study then led to further work by researchers attempting to
find parabens in breast cancer tissue. The reason for this study was
that the researchers believed parabens to be present in most
underarm deodorants and anti-perspirants. In fact, parabens are not
and never have been ingredients in the vast majority of underarm
toiletries. This is because preservatives are not generally required in
these types of formulations (they are either aerosols or generally
contain alcohol and other ingredients such as aluminium or zirconium
salts and so do not require further preservation). There are a few
brands which previously contained parabens, and a handful that still
do, but 95% of the market are formulated without parabens and
always have been. Despite the rumours, they were not subsequently
removed en masse following this study as they were not present in the
majority in the first instance. These researchers found traces of
parabens in a study of 20 breast cancer tissues. However, parabens
were also found in the blank controls - in fact, one of the ‘blank’
controls contained more total parabens than 12 of the tissue samples
and the second highest ‘blank’ contained more parabens than 9 of
the tissue samples. So, parabens were present in both the breast
cancer tissue samples and the blank controls! Peer-review has shown
this to be a highly-flawed study and instead of being present in the
breast cancer tissue, it is more likely that the parabens (measured in
parts per billion) were actually already present on the glassware.
Ingredients Factsheet
Later reviews of this trial now conclude that the presence of parabens
in the tumour tissues is most likely to have come from contamination
of the laboratory apparatus used in the trial.
Other studies quoted to discredit parabens include a trial where an
adverse oestrogenic effect on fish was discovered by injecting fish with
very large amounts of parabens, at levels of 100-300mg/kg bodyweight
(not something that is likely to occur either in fish or in humans).
Studies on rats and mice have also shown some disruption to sperm
to be ‘preservative free’ that some may not actually be so. For
example, some certification organisations allow preservatives such
as parabens to be used within the herbal ingredients and this may
not be declared on the label (known as the INCI listing). Alcohol
(either plant-derived or synthetic) can also be used as a preservative,
but this needs to be used in fairly high quantities in order to be
effective (at least 12%). We would consider this in some body
treatments, but not in sensitive skin formulas for the face.
likely to eat the vast amounts of parabens involved and many
Skincare advice
toxicologists do not accept these findings as either relevant or valid.
Keep in mind that you do need to take care when using un-preserved
Such is the misinformation and mythology surrounding parabens as
skincare, especially if you have a low immune system. It is ironic
ingredients that, in skincare, some products now declare themselves
that cancer patients may be advised by well-meaning natural
to be ‘parabens free’, as if this is a virtue. This highlights the dangers
health advocates to opt for ‘natural’ skincare that is more likely to be
to consumers of some companies supporting inaccurate information
un-preserved. This is dangerous advice for someone with a damaged
by feeding them large quantities of parabens, but again, we are not
and is one of the reasons why this factsheet has been compiled.
Safe, effective skincare is a priority
So what about other preservatives? At Liz Earle Naturally Active
Skincare, we use a wide range of different preservatives. In some
cases, products may not even need to be preserved at all. Our
preservative-free formulations include Superbalm and Superskin
Concentrate. It has always been our company policy to use the lowest
safe and effective levels of a range of broad-spectrum preservative
systems, such as phenoxyethanol (used in contact lens solutions) and
potassium sorbate. When testing our skincare for safety, we carry
out what is known as challenge testing. This involves taking a sample
of the product and injecting it with a wide variety of common bugs,
such as bacteria, moulds and fungi, and testing for how well the
preservative system deals with these. We then age this sample over
6 weeks in a warm environment (around 30 degrees). The aged sample
is then re-tested and we look for the same safety levels as we would
find in a freshly made sample. We test and re-test, always making sure
that we reduce the preservatives we use to just the right levels - not
too much and not too little. We never simply top up our formulations
with the maximum allowable as this technique (although easier) can
lead to excessive use of preservatives.
immune system. Warnings were issued by the Universitari del Mar
Hospital in Barcelona in January 2008 when moisturising body lotions
used in patient care transmitted deadly bugs to critically-ill patients.
Five intensive care patients contracted a life-threatening infection
caused by the bacteria Burkholderia cepacia which was present in
the lotion before the containers were opened. According to leading
British dermatologist Professor Michael Cork, using un-preserved or
poorly-preserved skincare could be fatal. His clinical trial completed
in 2007 showed 53% of emollients (ointments and creams) tested
to contain bacterial contamination. These included 25% contaminated
with Staphylococcus aureus (one of the triggers for eczema), 11%
with coliforms and enterococci (from faeces) and 17% with general
skin bacteria. Professor Cork even found the deadly ‘superbug’
MRSA in several skin creams. In addition to those with lowered
immune systems, those who also need to be especially careful
include the very young (especially babies and toddlers), the elderly
and anyone with damaged skin or open wounds, such as psoriasis,
eczema, cuts or grazes.
A last word…
The safety of parabens, and the risk of using skincare not properly
preserved, are at last starting to be appreciated by well-researched
media. However, many scare stories are fed by commercial companies
We constantly search for and test new preservatives, including
or organisations with their own agenda. They may also be fuelled by
many of the so-called ‘more natural’ options. We do not use
broadcasters or newspapers seeking higher ratings or sales figures.
grapefruit seed extract as not only is this not a natural ingredient
The news that parabens are both natural and safe to use is not exactly
(it is significantly chemically adapted) but we have also found it not
an exciting headline, but the good news is that you can continue to
to be effective enough in protecting against contamination when
enjoy both eating parabens in foods such as fruits and using parabens
challenged. Be aware when buying products that declare themselves
in skincare without fear.
Ingredients Factsheet
Want to know more?
References
These websites are useful to bookmark as they tend to offer balanced
and credible viewpoints, backed with detailed peer-reviewed research
on all kinds of health and beauty myths:
Beveridge E.G. and Hart A.; Int. Biodetn. Bull., 1970, 6 (1), 9.
www.thefactsabout.co.uk
An excellent and informative website run by the Cosmetic,
Toiletry and Perfumery Association in the UK. Worth checking
for a balanced and legally accurate view whenever there is a
scare story in the media.
www.senseaboutscience.org.uk
A UK charity for scientific information written by leading scientists.
Golden R., Gandy J. and Vollmer G. A review of endocrine activity
of parabens and implications for potential risks to human health.
Critical Reviews in Toxicology. Vol. 35, No. 5, pp. 435-458 2005.
Soni M.G., Carabin I.G. and Burdock G.A. Safety assessment
of esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid (parabens). Food and
Chemical Toxicology (2005), 43(7), 985-1015.
Cashman A.L. and Warshaw E.M. Parabens: a review of epidemiology,
www.colipa.eu
The European Cosmetics Association website, which contains
useful information on EU legislation and product labelling.
structure, allergenicity, and hormonal properties. Dermatitis. 2005
www.acsh.org/healthissues
An American website run by the American Council on
Sciences and Health, a consumer education consortium.
Routledge E.J. et al. Some Alkyl Hydroxy Benzoate
www.personalcarecouncil.org
A very good American website run by the Personal Care
Products Council (they tend to issue response statements
following scares).
www.fda.gov
The main American Food and Drug Administration website
is tricky to navigate, but it does have a good question
and answer section on skincare ingredients, and more.
www.cancer.gov
The main cancer information website in America. A good
selection of risk assessment papers can be downloaded at
www.cancer.gov/cancertopics/factsheet/Risk
Jun;16(2):57-66; quiz 55-6.
Preservatives (Parabens) Are Estrogenic. Toxicology and
Applied Pharmacology. 153(1), 12-19. 1998.
Darbre P.D., Aljarrah A., Miller W.R., Coldham N.G., Sauer M.J.
and Pope G.S. Concentrations of parabens in human breast
tumours. J Appl Toxicol. 2004 Jan-Feb;24(1):5-13.
Na’was T. and Alkofahi A. Microbial contamination and preservative
efficacy of topical creams. Journal of Clinical Pharmacy and
Therapeutics (1994) 19, 41-46.
Alvarez-Lerma F. et al. Moisturising body milk as a
reservoir of Burkholderia cepacia: outbreak of nosocomial
infection in a multidisciplinary intensive care unit. Critical
Care. 2008 Jan ISSN 1364-8535.
www.snopes.com
An American website dedicating to solving all kinds of internet
and media myths, e-mail scares and round-robin hoaxes. A
handy reference site that helps debunk all kinds of urban legends.
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