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bromeliads Photo: The John Henry Company blooming plant of the month Guzmania spp. Scarlet star, Flaming torch BOTANICAL NAMES Aechmea spp. (ek-ME-uh) Ananas spp. (uh-NAN-us) Billbergia spp. (bill-BUR-jee-uh) Cryptanthus spp. (krip-TAN-thus) Guzmania spp. (gooz-MAY-nee-uh) Neoregelia spp. (nee-oh-ruh-JEE-lee-uh) in-store and consumer care LIGHT Most bromeliads do best in bright locations but out of direct sunlight, which can burn foliage and blooms. Ananas and Cryptanthus, however, can thrive in full sun, as long as they’re introduced to it slowly. Other types — those with “soft” leaves — can tolerate lower-light conditions. Remember it this way: Soft leaves, soft light; stiff leaves, bright light. WATER Bromeliads’ water requirements vary by genus, but most don’t need much. With bromeliads that have a center “cup,” or “vase,” formed by a rosette of leaves, let the potting medium dry out completely between waterings, then saturate it, and enable the water to drain quickly. Use distilled water or rainwater. In addition, always keep a small amount of distilled water or rainwater in the central cup, emptying it and adding fresh water every 10 to 30 days. Too much water in the cup can cause the base of a flower spike to rot. With “noncup” types of bromeliads, keep the potting medium more consistent20 super floral retailing september ’10 Tillandsia spp. (til-LAND-zee-uh) Vriesea spp. (VREE-zee-uh) COMMON NAMES Aechmea: Air pine, Living vase, Silver vase, Urn plant Ananas: Pineapple Billbergia: Vase plant, Queen’s tears, Friendship plant, Fool-proof plant, Rainbow plant Cryptanthus: Earth star, Starfish plant, Silver star, Zebra plant Guzmania: Scarlet star, Flaming torch Neoregelia: Blushing bromeliad, Heart-of-flame, Crimson cup, Fingernail plant, Cartwheel plant, Marble plant Tillandsia: Air plant, Spanish moss Vriesea: Flaming sword, Painted feathers, Lobster claws, Bromeliad king, Zebra bromeliad DESCRIPTION Bromeliads, from the family Bromeliaceae ly moist but not wet; be careful to not overwater. Air plants (Tillandsias) require no watering at all—except in dry, arid environments, where only an occasional misting is required. TEMPERATURE Indoors, bromeliads do best in temperate environments (65 F to 75 F). Never subject them to temperatures below 60 F for extended periods. Guzmanias and Vrieseas dislike temperatures above 80 F, but Ananases and Tillandsias thrive in higher temperatures. Temperatures of 75 F and higher are required for bromeliads to produce blooms. HUMIDITY Most bromeliads require consistent high humidity because they obtain their nutrients and water from the moisture in the air. In dry environments and/or during dry seasons, lightly mist leaves daily with diluted (50 percent), liquid, all-purpose fertilizer in the sprayer. You also can place the pot on a pebble tray (a saucer filled with pea gravel that is almost covered with water). FERTILIZER Bromeliads grow better when fed regularly in the summer. Fertilize Super Floral Retailing has created this page for the education of store-level employees. To download a reprintable PDF, please go to www.superfloralretailing.com and select “Current Issue.” (bro-mel-ee-AY-see-ay), are a large and diverse group of plants known for their exotic blooms and ornamental foliage. They come in a range of sizes from miniatures to giants. COLORS Bloom colors vary depending on genus but include red, pink, burgundy, yellow, green and violet. Leaves can be light green to dark green; gray-green; green with ivory edges or stripes; or red, pink and green striped. DECORATIVE LIFE Bromeliad blooms can last for several weeks to several months, depending on plant type and the care and handling the plants receive. However, after bromeliad blooms fade, the plants start to die, often producing offsets (pups) at their bases (see “Reblooming/Propagation,” below). AVAILABILITY Bromeliads are available year-round. plants with a liquid, all-purpose plant food diluted to half the regular strength. Spray the plant food onto the leaves, pour a bit into the cup and dribble a small amount into the soil. Using too much plant food can damage these plants because most contain high levels of salts. POTTING MEDIUM Bromeliads require a light, quickly draining soil mixture, such as a mixture of peat moss, sand or perlite, and chopped and decomposed tree bark or pine needles. You also can use an orchid or cactus potting mix. REPOTTING This is rarely necessary because bromeliads have small root systems, and most grow best when kept in small pots. When planting offsets (see “Reblooming/ Propagation,” next), use the correct potting medium (see “Potting Medium,” above), and do not plant them too deeply. REBLOOMING/PROPAGATION Most bromeliads flower only once in indoor home/office conditions. After flowering, however, they may produce offsets (pups) at their bases. When the offsets are at least six months old and one-third to one-half the size of the www.superfloralretailing.com parent plant, they can be cut, with a sterile knife, from the parent plant and potted into a lightly moist sand/peat-moss mixture or an orchid or cactus soil mix. If environmental conditions are right, you can induce the offsets to flower by exposing them to ethylene gas: Place each plant into a clear plastic bag, with one or two apples; seal the bag; and let it stand for two to four days at room temperature. You may have to wait six weeks or so to find out if the treatment worked. ETHYLENE SENSITIVITY Ethylene gas is not detrimental to bromeliads; in fact, it is required to stimulate flowering. challenges PESTS Mealybugs and scale insects are occasional problems. Scale insects cause brown discs on leaves. Mealybugs cause white cottony-looking patches on leaves. Guzmania lingulata Scarlet star Photos: The John Henry Company Aechmea fasciata Urn plant FALLING AND YELLOW LEAVES Plants are too dry; too much sunlight. BROWN LEAF TIPS Insufficient humidity; repeated drying out: too-high temperatures; no water in cup; use of hard water. BROWN SPOTS ON LEAVES Sunburn due to exposure to direct sunlight. FLOWER SPIKES ROT AT BASE Too much water in cup. PLANTS DIE OR ROT AT BASE WITHOUT BLOOMING Overwatering; insufficient air circulation. ROOT ROT Overwatering; insufficient humidity. PLANTS DO NOT BLOOM Insufficient light; too young. Most bromeliads do not bloom until they are at least three years old. OFFSETS DIE WITHOUT ROOTING Offsets taken from parent plant and planted when too young; insufficient humidity. fun facts WHAT’S IN A NAME Most bromeliads are native to the tropical regions of Central America and South America—particularly the rain forests. The majority of types are indigenous to Brazil. UP IN THE AIR Most bromeliads are classified as “epiphytes,” meaning they grow on trees or elevated supports, obtaining water and nutrients from the air through their leaves, cups and roots; they do not damage the support plant. Others are “terrestrial,” sinking their roots into the forest floor, and still others are “saxicolous,” meaning they grow on rocks, with their roots penetrating cracks and fissures to locate moisture and nutrients. COMING OF AGE Most bromeliads do not bloom until they are at least three years old. Tillandsia cyanea Pink quill Cryptanthus bivattatus ‘Minor’ Earth star, Starfish plant, Dwarf rose-stripe star Vriesea splendens Flaming sword www.superfloralretailing.com Neoregelia carolinae Blushing bromeliad sfr Some information provided by: Botanica, by R.G. Turner Jr. and Ernie Wasson Bromeliad Society International, http://bsi.org Chain of Life Network® , www.chainoflife.org Complete Houseplant Survival Manual, The by Barbara Pleasant House Plant Expert, The, by Dr. D.G. Hessayon Society of American Florists’ Flower & Plant Care manual super september ’10 floral retailing 21