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bromeliads
Photo: The John Henry Company
blooming plant of the month
Guzmania spp.
Scarlet star, Flaming torch
BOTANICAL NAMES
Aechmea spp. (ek-ME-uh)
Ananas spp. (uh-NAN-us)
Billbergia spp. (bill-BUR-jee-uh)
Cryptanthus spp. (krip-TAN-thus)
Guzmania spp. (gooz-MAY-nee-uh)
Neoregelia spp. (nee-oh-ruh-JEE-lee-uh)
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LIGHT Most bromeliads do best in bright
locations but out of direct sunlight, which
can burn foliage and blooms. Ananas and
Cryptanthus, however, can thrive in full
sun, as long as they’re introduced to it
slowly. Other types — those with “soft”
leaves — can tolerate lower-light conditions. Remember it this way: Soft leaves,
soft light; stiff leaves, bright light.
WATER Bromeliads’ water requirements
vary by genus, but most don’t need much.
With bromeliads that have a center “cup,”
or “vase,” formed by a rosette of leaves, let
the potting medium dry out completely
between waterings, then saturate it, and
enable the water to drain quickly. Use distilled water or rainwater. In addition,
always keep a small amount of distilled
water or rainwater in the central cup, emptying it and adding fresh water every 10 to
30 days. Too much water in the cup can
cause the base of a flower spike to rot.
With “noncup” types of bromeliads,
keep the potting medium more consistent20
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Tillandsia spp. (til-LAND-zee-uh)
Vriesea spp. (VREE-zee-uh)
COMMON NAMES
Aechmea: Air pine, Living vase,
Silver vase, Urn plant
Ananas: Pineapple
Billbergia: Vase plant, Queen’s tears,
Friendship plant, Fool-proof plant,
Rainbow plant
Cryptanthus: Earth star, Starfish plant,
Silver star, Zebra plant
Guzmania: Scarlet star, Flaming torch
Neoregelia: Blushing bromeliad,
Heart-of-flame, Crimson cup,
Fingernail plant, Cartwheel plant,
Marble plant
Tillandsia: Air plant, Spanish moss
Vriesea: Flaming sword, Painted feathers,
Lobster claws, Bromeliad king,
Zebra bromeliad
DESCRIPTION
Bromeliads, from the family Bromeliaceae
ly moist but not wet; be careful to not overwater. Air plants (Tillandsias) require no
watering at all—except in dry, arid environments, where only an occasional misting is required.
TEMPERATURE Indoors, bromeliads do best
in temperate environments (65 F to 75 F).
Never subject them to temperatures below
60 F for extended periods. Guzmanias and
Vrieseas dislike temperatures above 80 F,
but Ananases and Tillandsias thrive in higher temperatures. Temperatures of 75 F and
higher are required for bromeliads to produce blooms.
HUMIDITY Most bromeliads require consistent high humidity because they obtain
their nutrients and water from the moisture
in the air. In dry environments and/or during dry seasons, lightly mist leaves daily
with diluted (50 percent), liquid, all-purpose fertilizer in the sprayer. You also can
place the pot on a pebble tray (a saucer
filled with pea gravel that is almost covered
with water).
FERTILIZER Bromeliads grow better when
fed regularly in the summer. Fertilize
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(bro-mel-ee-AY-see-ay), are a large and
diverse group of plants known for their
exotic blooms and ornamental foliage.
They come in a range of sizes from miniatures to giants.
COLORS
Bloom colors vary depending on genus
but include red, pink, burgundy, yellow,
green and violet. Leaves can be light
green to dark green; gray-green; green
with ivory edges or stripes; or red, pink
and green striped.
DECORATIVE LIFE
Bromeliad blooms can last for several
weeks to several months, depending on
plant type and the care and handling the
plants receive. However, after bromeliad
blooms fade, the plants start to die, often
producing offsets (pups) at their bases
(see “Reblooming/Propagation,” below).
AVAILABILITY
Bromeliads are available year-round.
plants with a liquid, all-purpose plant food
diluted to half the regular strength. Spray
the plant food onto the leaves, pour a bit
into the cup and dribble a small amount
into the soil. Using too much plant food
can damage these plants because most contain high levels of salts.
POTTING MEDIUM Bromeliads require a
light, quickly draining soil mixture, such as
a mixture of peat moss, sand or perlite, and
chopped and decomposed tree bark or
pine needles. You also can use an orchid or
cactus potting mix.
REPOTTING This is rarely necessary because
bromeliads have small root systems, and
most grow best when kept in small pots.
When planting offsets (see “Reblooming/
Propagation,” next), use the correct potting
medium (see “Potting Medium,” above), and
do not plant them too deeply.
REBLOOMING/PROPAGATION Most bromeliads flower only once in indoor home/office
conditions. After flowering, however, they
may produce offsets (pups) at their bases.
When the offsets are at least six months old
and one-third to one-half the size of the
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parent plant, they can be cut, with a sterile
knife, from the parent plant and potted
into a lightly moist sand/peat-moss mixture
or an orchid or cactus soil mix. If environmental conditions are right, you can
induce the offsets to flower by exposing
them to ethylene gas: Place each plant into
a clear plastic bag, with one or two apples;
seal the bag; and let it stand for two to four
days at room temperature. You may have to
wait six weeks or so to find out if the treatment worked.
ETHYLENE SENSITIVITY Ethylene gas is not
detrimental to bromeliads; in fact, it is
required to stimulate flowering.
challenges
PESTS Mealybugs and scale insects are occasional problems. Scale insects cause brown
discs on leaves. Mealybugs cause white cottony-looking patches on leaves.
Guzmania lingulata
Scarlet star
Photos: The John Henry Company
Aechmea fasciata
Urn plant
FALLING AND YELLOW LEAVES Plants are too
dry; too much sunlight.
BROWN LEAF TIPS Insufficient humidity;
repeated drying out: too-high temperatures; no water in cup; use of hard water.
BROWN SPOTS ON LEAVES Sunburn due to
exposure to direct sunlight.
FLOWER SPIKES ROT AT BASE Too much
water in cup.
PLANTS DIE OR ROT AT BASE WITHOUT
BLOOMING Overwatering; insufficient air
circulation.
ROOT ROT Overwatering; insufficient
humidity.
PLANTS DO NOT BLOOM Insufficient light;
too young. Most bromeliads do not bloom
until they are at least three years old.
OFFSETS DIE WITHOUT ROOTING Offsets
taken from parent plant and planted when
too young; insufficient humidity.
fun facts
WHAT’S IN A NAME Most bromeliads are
native to the tropical regions of Central
America and South America—particularly
the rain forests. The majority of types are
indigenous to Brazil.
UP IN THE AIR Most bromeliads are classified as “epiphytes,” meaning they grow on
trees or elevated supports, obtaining water
and nutrients from the air through their
leaves, cups and roots; they do not damage the support plant. Others are “terrestrial,” sinking their roots into the forest
floor, and still others are “saxicolous,”
meaning they grow on rocks, with their
roots penetrating cracks and fissures to
locate moisture and nutrients.
COMING OF AGE Most bromeliads do not
bloom until they are at least three years old.
Tillandsia cyanea
Pink quill
Cryptanthus bivattatus ‘Minor’
Earth star, Starfish plant,
Dwarf rose-stripe star
Vriesea splendens
Flaming sword
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Neoregelia carolinae
Blushing bromeliad
sfr
Some information provided by:
Botanica, by R.G. Turner Jr. and Ernie Wasson
Bromeliad Society International, http://bsi.org
Chain of Life Network® , www.chainoflife.org
Complete Houseplant Survival Manual, The
by Barbara Pleasant
House Plant Expert, The, by Dr. D.G. Hessayon
Society of American Florists’ Flower & Plant Care manual
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