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Jasmine BOTANY Jasminum officinale L., commonly known as white jasmine, belongs to the Oleaceae family. This family includes about 150 species, most of them native to the warmest regions of Europe. Jasmine is a climbing shrub with perennial leaves. Older stems are thin and woody and may reach several meters in height. Younger stems twist as they grow and eventually adopt a spiral shape. These are the stems that bear the leaves. The leaves are opposite, pinnate, dark green, with three pairs of sharp-pointed leaflets plus one terminal leaflet larger than the others and with an attenuated tip. The flowers are arranged in groups of one to five at the end of the branches. Each flower is composed of a tubular calyx with five or eight sepals, a corolla, which is cylindrical at the base and expanded at the top, two stamens enclosed into the corolla tube and a two-chamber ovary. The heavily scented flowers appear from June to October. Since they are born on the youngest stems, the plant has to be pruned only during the Fall. The fruit is a shining black berry. J.officinale is native to China, north of India, Pakistan and the northeast of the Himalayas. It is completely acclimatized in the central and southern regions of Europe. It is usually grown in European gardens as an ornamental plant, especially the perennial varieties such as J.nudiflorum, a variety with yellow flowers commonly known as winter jasmine or J.floridum, an almost perennial shrub with yellow flowers. Jasmine flowers must be harvested manually, one by one, during the dawn hours so that the sun does not shrivel them. Otherwise, up to a 20% of the fragrance may be lost. Jasmine concentrate is produced in Italy, France, Morocco, Egypt, China and Turkey. Jasmine extract is obtained from the flowers. CHEMISTRY Essential oils alcohols: linalol, nerol, farnesol, terpineol. ketones: Jasmone (3-4%), trans-methyljasmonate, jasmonic acid, jasmolactone, methyldihydrojasmonate, cis- and trans-ethyljasmonate. other alcohols, esters and ketones: benzyl acetate (4.5-25%), benzyl alcohol, phenylacetic acid, methyl heptanone. aromatic compounds: eugenol, eugenyl acetate V 06-12/12 42941,43470-1 Exclusive N.A. Distributor CENTERCHEM, INC. NORWALK, CT Ph: 203-822-9800 Fax: 203-822-9820 www.centerchem.com Fig.1. Structure of jasmonic acid. Fig.2. Structure of jasmone. Other active principles phenols: p-cresol. alkaloids: indol (2.5-5%), methyl anthranilate. TRADITIONAL USES As a medicinal plant, jasmine has traditionally been considered an aphrodisiac, soothing, antiseptic, antispasmodic, stimulant, anti-depressive, emollient, rejuvenating and calming agent. In the folk medicine, the roots and leaves of some jasmine species are used as an antihelmintic and to fight against ringworm and tapeworm. Even when at present, it is rarely used in the western World, the syrup of jasmine flowers was formerly used to relief cough and the infusion of jasmine leaves was used to rinse sore eyes and wounds. Jasmine is popularly known to reduce stretch marks as well as to treat aged skin by preventing wrinkles, reaffirming and soothing it. Jasmine oil is one of the most expensive and hard-toproduce oils. It is extensively used in the perfume industry due to the properties of its essential oils, which contribute to create quality perfumes. It is one of the components of the famous fragrance Channel Nº5. Several types of jasmine are used as ornamental plants. COSMETIC PROPERTIES Essential oils are well absorbed through the skin. It has been demonstrated that skin permeability to terpenes – the most abundant components of essential oils – is 100 times faster than permeability to water, and that α-pinene may be detected in the air for as long as 20 minutes after vaporized (Buchbauer G., 1990). Spasmolytic activity Jasmine absolute shows a marked in vitro spasmolytic action on isolated guinea pig ileum and rat womb. Some evidences indicate that its in vitro spasmolytic or relaxing actions on the smooth ileum muscles are related to its calming effects on humans. Lis-Balchin M. et al. (2002) carried out an in vitro study aimed at understanding the action mechanism of jasmine absolute on the smooth muscle of guinea pigs and the relationship with its effects on humans. Their results provided reliable data to suggest that the spasmolytic activity of jasmine absolute was due to its capacity of increasing intracellular cAMP and possibly, of blocking calcium channels thus preventing the entry of calcium into the cells. Therefore, jasmine is useful when formulating cosmetic products with soothing and anti-stress effects. V 06-12/12 42941,43470-2 Anti-inflammatory activity Atta AH. et al. (1998) evaluated the anti-inflammatory effects of jasmine against acute inflammation – xylene-induced ear oedema in mice – and chronic inflammation – cotton pellet-induced granuloma in rats. They demonstrated that jasmine exerted anti-inflammatory effects against both acute and chronic inflammation. These authors also demonstrated that this activity was due to the chemical composition of jasmine extract. Thus, jasmine extract is well recommended when formulating cosmetic products aimed at the treatment of sensitive and/or irritated skin. Antimicrobial activity Antimicrobial activity is due to its essential oil content. Essential oils in general have antiseptic power against several pathogenic bacteria, even habitual antibiotic-resistant strains. The active doses are generally small and the doses used in in vitro experiments may be directly used in external applications or as preservatives (Bruneton J., 2001). Essential oils have antibacterial and antimicrobial activities. These activities are very useful in cosmetics when formulating deodorant or anti-halitosis products (Buchbauer G., 1990). Thanks to this property, jasmine is well recommended when formulating cosmetic products with an antiseptic action. COSMETIC APPLICATIONS Action Active Cosmetic Applications Spasmolytic Essential oils -Relaxation and anti-stress cosmetics Anti-inflammatory Essential oils -Sensitive/irritated skin Antimicrobial Essential oils -Antiseptic cosmetics RECOMMENDED DOSE The recommended dose is between 0.5% and 5.0%. V 06-12/12 42941,43470-3 RECOMMENDED DOSE Atta A.H. Anti-noceptive and anti-inflammatory effects of some Jordanian medicinal plant extracts. J Ethnopharmacol., 1998; 60: 117-24. Bruneton J. Farmacognosia. Zaragoza: Ed. Acribia, 2001; p: 487 (651*1 BRU). Buchbauer G. Aromatherapy: Do Essential Oils Have Therapeutic Properties? Perfumer & Flavorist, 1990; 15: 4750. Council of Europe. Natural sources of flavourings. Germany: Council of Europe Publishing, 2000; p:207-10 (633.82 BAU). Lis-Balchin M. Jasmine absolute (Jasminum grandiflora L.) and its Mode of Action on Guinea-pig Ileum In Vitro. Phytother. Res., 2002; 16: 437-39. Rossi M. Oli essenziali-schede tecniche. Erboristeria Domani, 1996; p: 40 (ref. 3390). Websites: Dr.Duke’s Phytochemical and Ethnobotanical Databases (www.ars-grin.gov/duke). Grin Taxonomy (www.ars-grin.gov/cgi-bin/npgs/html/index.pl) ITIS Integrated Taxonomic Information System (www.itis.usda.gov). National Agricultural Library / The NAL Catalog and Article Citation Database (www.nal.usda.gov/). V 06-12/12 42941,43470-4