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GARMENT SIZING AND PATTERN
MAKING
GM-2042 Lecture 2
Human Figure Types
• There are 8 main body shapes
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Straight Body Type
Pear Body Type
Spoon Body Type
Hourglass Body Type
Top Hourglass Body Type
Inverted Triangle Body Type
Oval Body Type
Diamond Body Type
Human Figure
Human Anatomy
• Anatomy is the study of the shape and form of the human
body. The human body has four limbs (two arms and two
legs).
• A head and a neck which connect to the torso.
• The body's shape is determined by a strong skeleton made of
bone and cartilage, surrounded by fat, muscle, connective
tissue, organs, and other structures.
ANATOMICAL TYPES
Anatomical means “Relating to Physical Structure” i.e. relating to
or showing the physical structure of the body.
Anatomically, there are three types of human body:
1.
2.
3.
Endomorphic
Mesomorphic
Ectomorphic
Endomorphic
• The body of the extreme endomorph is round and
soft. The physique presents the illusion that much of
the mass has been concentrated in the abdominal
area. This may or may not be true. The arms and legs
of the extreme endomorph are short in length. The
hands and feet of the endomorph are comparatively
small.. The body has a high waist.
General characteristics Endomorph
1.
2.
3.
4.
Soft Body
Round Physique
Weight Loss is Difficult
Gains Muscle Easily Like the Mesomorph
Mesomorphic
• The Mesomorphic has well-defined muscles and
large bones. The torso tapers to a relatively narrow
and low waist. The bones and muscles of the head
are prominent. Features of the face are clearly
defined, such as cheek bones. The face is long and
broad in shape. Arms and legs are developed.
General characteristics MESOMORPH
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Hard Body
Hourglass Shaped (Female)
Rectangular Shaped (Male)
Mature Muscle Mass
Muscular Body
Excellent Posture
Gains Muscle Easily
Gains Fat More Easily Than Ectomorphs
Thick Skin
Ectomorph
• The extreme ectomorph physique is a fragile and
delicate one. The bones are light, joints are small and
muscles are slight. The limbs are relatively long in
proportion and the shoulders drop. The ectomorph is
a linear physique. Straight up and straight down, and
may appear longer than he or she really is, due to
the length of limbs coupled with lack of muscle mass
developed on those limbs. The ectomorph is not
naturally powerful and will have to work hard for
every ounce of muscle and every bit of strength he
or she can gain.
General characteristics Ectomorphic
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Delicate Built Body
Flat Chest
Fragile
Lean
Lightly Muscled
Small Shouldered
Takes Longer to Gain Muscle
Thin
Landmark terms
• Landmark terms are essentially they words used to
identify parts of the body, or dress form, that are
referred to when measuring the body. Generally, we
measure from one landmark to another.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Center front neck + Center back neck
Center front waist + Center back waist
Bust points
Center front bust level (between bust points)
Side front (princess) + Side back (princess)
Mid-armhole front + Mid-armhole back
Shoulder tip
Shoulder at neck (shoulder/neck)
Armhole ridge or roll line
Plate screw
Armhole plate
Pattern Making tools
• Straight pins:
1. for draping and fittings.
• Straight pin holder
1. Pincushion, or magnetic holder.
• Scissors
1. Paper scissors.
2. Fabric scissors
• Pencils and pens
1. Mechanical pencil and sharpener. (Use #4-H lead for pattern work.
2. Red and blue colored pencils to identify
pattern changes. Black, green, red, and
blue felt-tip pens for pattern information
Pattern Making tools
• Japanese Ruler
• Curve rules
– French curve
– Sleigh curve
– Hip curve rule to shape hipline
– Vary form curve to blend and shape
armhole neckline
Pattern Making tools
• Hanger hooks or ringers:
Pattern Making tools
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Push pins
Stapler and remover
scotch tape
Black twill tape
Notcher
Measuring tape 60 inches long
Tailor’s chalk
Pattern Making tools
•
Pattern Making tools
•
Pattern paper
– Pattern paper has code numbers to indicate its
weight from heavy to light
• Heavy-weight Paper—Weight Code
– Heavyweight pattern paper is called tag board,
manila, or hard paper and is used primarily for
production patterns
• Light-weight Paper—Weight Code
• Lightweight paper is called marking paper. Marking paper is used for
making markers and to develop first patterns.
FABRIC TERMS
• Muslin. A plain-woven cotton made from bleached or
unbleached corded yarns in a variety of weights
– Coarse-weave: Used for draping and testing basic
patterns.
– Light-weight: Used for softly draped garments.
– Heavy-weight: Firmly woven, used for testing
tailored garments, jackets, and coats.
Terminologies
• Grain. The direction in which the yarn is woven or knitted
(lengthwise grain, or warp; crosswise grain or weft).
• Lengthwise grain (warp). Yarns parallel with selvage and at
right angles to the crosswise grain. It is the most stable grain.
• Crosswise grain (weft). Yarns woven across the fabric from
selvage to selvage. It is the filling yarn of woven fabrics.
Crosswise grain yields to tension
• Selvage. The narrow, firmly woven, and finished strip on both
lengthwise grain edges of the woven fabric. Clipping selvage
releases tension.
PATTERN GRAINLINE
• The pattern grainline is a line drawn on each pattern piece
(from end to end) to indicate how the pattern should align
with the lengthwise grain of the fabric.
• where the grainline is drawn on the pattern, it will always be
placed on the fabric so that the grainline is parallel to the
selvage edge