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Adjustments required for building EMW SmartCharge-10000 non-PFC EV
Charger V9.1 (build ID QPMJ5927C)
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Control board
o R33=100k (not 1k)
Power board – buck stage
o Missing connection between bottom right pad carrying a female spade connector, and the HV
negative plane (top plane). Easiest connection made to the closest pin of the 82K resistor (the
pin connected to the upper plane - HV ground)
Build sequence
1. Assemble the Control board. Tip: place many parts at a time, bending pins on the other side of the board
so that the parts stay in place when you turn over the board to solder. If you can’t find some part ID on
the board / PCB file, do Ctrl-F from within ExpressPCB to find the part. Some of the part numbers may be
hidden due to space constraints etc.
a. Solder the male pins supplied to the Arduino board (make sure pins stick out from the side that
has all the Arduino board components)
b. Place 1k resistors: R22-32, R34, R36
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Place 10k resistors: R39-42
Place 100k resistors: R33, R48
Place 6.8k resistor: R38
Place 3.3k resistor: R37
Place 270R-330R resistor: R44
Place diode D4
Place 8-pin socket
Solder parts, cut the pins
Place female pins for Arduino; turn over and solder
Place male pins for connectors (7-pin, 2 6-pin, 2 5-pin, 8-pin). Tip: insert all pins, then cover
board from the top with a piece of carton/plastic and then turn over and put on the table. Pins
will stay in place. Solder
Place N2222 transistors: S1-8. Turn over, solder.
Place 0.1uF caps: C43-48
Place 10uF caps: C38-39
Place 100uF caps: C40-41
Place 5v voltage regulator: S9 (7805 part number)
Place 1nF caps: C49-50
Turn over, solder
(if you decide to mount buttons directly on the control board – more convenient for assembly
but reduces ease of access to the controls of the charger) FROM THE BACK SIDE, place buttons
D6R-red and D6R-green (or black). Turn over, solder
(if you decide to mount the LCD directly on the control board - more convenient for assembly
but reduces ease of access to the controls of the charger)
i. Using non-conductive glue, attach a piece of isolating pad to the back of the LCD board
ii. FROM THE BACK SIDE of the control board, place the resulting isolated LCD board
through the pins in the middle of Arduino mounting area. Solder from the top of the
board
iii. Connect a normally closed button between 2 horizontal vias on top of the vertical LCD
connector – below the top 6-pin row of Arduino mounting pins. This is the button that
will later be used to upload the firmware to the charger after it is assembled
If you decide not to mount buttons and / or LCD on the control board, you will need to do the
following:
i. Bridge the 2 horizontal vias from the last item
ii. Ensure you bring out all the relevant connectors to the LCD / programming connector
(described below)
iii. Procure a separate small box where to mount buttons and LCD, connecting that box to
the main charger box via a shielded cable
Insert Arduino board
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x. Insert LM211 chip (U9)
y. Install OPTIONAL diff driver (not supplied in kit, only used for multiple-stage charging systems,
can be ordered separately from EMW)
z. Install OPTIONAL DB9 connectors (recommended ONLY if you are able to cut appropriately
shaped cutouts for these in the steel box)
2. Make a bracket for the inductor.
a. E-core inductor will be mounted with its leads facing up. Bracket can be made from 18-22 gauge
steel (you can get galvanized steel strips from Home Depot). Couple of options for mounting
location:
i. Mount on the bottom of the box downstream from the heatsink
ii. Mount on the heatsink (if supplied with the larger 8x10” heatsink)
b. For Toroid inductors (shipped from December 2012), you can use a couple of different methods:
i. Dedicated toroid mounts such as #4 hardware from
http://www.alphacoredirect.com/contents/en-us/d51.html. If you are using this
method, you need to be especially careful about inductor cooling as the inner part of the
inductor is no longer available for airflow. To maximize performance, consider drilling 34 matching ½” holes in the washers and the charger box to enable some airflow through
the inner portion of the inductor
ii. HDPE brackets holding toroid to the box (use ¾-1” thick HDPE such as this one:
http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/HDPE_Sheet/HDPENAT0-750SR24X48). You want to
make 2 C-brackets
c. In all cases, you want to have direct airflow blowing at the inductors. Overheating inductors are a
leading cause of failures for the customer-built charger units.
3. Prepare the top of the heatsink (make sure all holes on top of heatsink are drilled between the fins. All
holes are drilled from the top unless specifically mentioned otherwise)
a. Orient 10”-wide, 8”-long heatsink you have received from EMW with its long side (10”) facing
you
b. Drill 2 holes for mounting the diode bridges on the bottom left side of the sink, tap with 10-32 or
10-24 thread. Tip: best to use an unpopulated doubler board as a pattern for holes
c. Drill 2 holes for IGBT on the bottom right side of the sink, tap with 10-32 or 10-24 thread. Tip:
best to use an unpopulated power board as a pattern for holes
d. Drill 2 holes for the output diode on the top right side of the sink, tap with 8-32 thread. Align the
diode so that the anode is closer to the power board as it will be connected to the power board.
Note that the diode supplied is a dual package in which you have to use both diodes connected
in parallel
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e. Drill 2 holes for the inductor bracket on the top left side of the heatsink, tap with 10-32 or 10-24
thread. Align the inductor’s core from left to right, across the fins of the heatsink. Mount the
inductor to the heatsink
f. Drill and tap 6-32 hole on the left side of the sink (in the upper portion of the leftmost fin, closer
to you). This will be the mounting location of the main 12V linear regulator
g. Drill a single non-through 1/8” hole in the center of the heatsink for the thermistor.
h. Make a 5-pin (only 2 side pins used) thermistor connector. See section “Prepare the off-board
components“ for general instructions for making harnesses. Cut 24” pre-crimped wires and
solder one end to thermistor (heat-shrink-wrap thermistor connections and thermistor itself to
prevent shorting to heatsink).
i. Using heat glue or super-glue, secure the thermistor in the thermistor hole
4. Assemble and mount the power board
a. Pre-assemble the top of the power board
i. Solder Resistors (10k, 82k) from the top
ii. Solder 50A sensor and 3-pin connector from the top
iii. Solder Blue film caps from the top
iv. Solder Elcaps from the top
b. Prepare the IGBT
i. Mount the IGBT on a heatsink (don’t forget to apply thermal paste between the IGBT
and the heatsink)
ii. Solder together the E2 and G2 pins of the IGBT
iii. Fit the 2 supplied female spade connectors on the E1 and G1 pins of the IGBT
c. Place the pre-assembled power board on top of the IGBT, fitting the pins of the spade connector
through its mounting holes from the bottom of the board. Secure the board to IGBT’s top
terminal; solder the spade connector pins
d. Place the third female spade connector from the top of the board (on the right side close to you).
Solder from the bottom. From the top of the board, connect this pad to the closest end of the
82k resistor on your side of the board
e. Apply silicon adhesive between all caps to protect against vibration
5. Assemble the Driver board. Note that there will be a number of unoccupied positions on the driver
board after you are done – the “missing” parts are for PFC stage control and are not needed in non-PFC
version
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Place ISO124 isolating op-amps: U1,2
Place 8-dip socket for U7
Turn over, solder
Solder 1uF ceramic caps DIRECTLY onto the pins of each of the U1,2. Ensure the shortest possible
lead lengths for these caps. Pins to be connected via these caps:
i. 1 & 16, 2 & 16
ii. 9 & 8, 10 & 8
Place 1uF caps C32
Place 1M resistors: R9-12
Place 27k resistors: R13, 15
Place 220R-300R resistor: R18
Place 0.1uF caps: C14 (can also be marked C15/16/57 on your Driver boards), 27, 28, 30, 31
Place 12V->15V DC-DC converters: U3-5
Hold DC-DC converters with a piece of carton/plastic and turn the board over. Solder all
components, trim leads
Place 22uF-50uF caps: C20-26
Place 2-pin high voltage connector into Vbop and Vout mounting pads on the driver board. Align
the connector with the locking tab facing down. (EMW may provide 5-pin connector – in that
case solder all pins but use only Vbop and Vout pins)
Turn over, solder
FROM THE BACK SIDE
i. Insert 2 3-pin and 1 6-pin male pin headers
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ii. Hold parts with carton/plastic, turn over, solder
iii. Place 10R power resistor R6, bend upwards
iv. Turn over, solder
p. Install OPTIONAL PARTS (not supplied in kit)
i. Diff driver (used only in multiple-stage charging systems, can be ordered separately from
EMW)
ii. Place 0.1uF cap: C29
iii. Place 220-270R resistor: R19
q. Insert 3 male 90-degree spade connectors into the female spade connectors on the buck power
board, mounting pins facing you. Position driver board so that these pins fit into the mounting
pads on the driver board (Components on the driver board should be facing the rest of power
buck board. Solder pins in place
r. Insert A3120 chip into a 8-pin IC socket
s. Build a connection harness for HV connector
i. Cut a 12” length of signal wire (AWG 22-16), connect one end to the female pin of the 2pin power connector (the one that will go to Vout male pin)
ii. Cut a 4” length of signal wire, connect one end to the other female pin (going to the
Vbop male pin).
iii. Connect female plug to the driver board
iv. Solder Vbop wire to the left lead of the 82k resistor. This will be used to sense input
voltage
v. Solder Vout wire to the cathode of output diode (or, if using output relay, to the output
pin of the relay). This will be used to sense output voltage
t. Insert the driver board into the female spade pins on the power board
i. NOTE ORIENTATION – Component side of the board should face the power board. Check
schematics if unsure.
6. Assemble the diode bridge / voltage doubler board
a. Place bridges from the bottom of the board. Solder from the top side
b. Fill the double through holes between C3 and C4 with solder
c. Place all caps and solder
d. Connect both Out “+” outputs with 10/12-gauge bare copper wire bracket. Do same for both Out
“-“ outputs.
e. Wire AC connections. For each wire, fit an eye crimp connector to the other side – this will be
later screwed onto the input/output terminal block on the outside of the charger
i. Cut 10” length of gauge 8/10 wire, solder one end to AC1 output. This will be the shared
110/220VAC input.
ii. Cut 12” length of gauge 8/10 wire, solder one end to AC2 output. This will be the second
input line for 220VAC.
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iii. Cut 10” length of gauge 12 wire, solder one end to AC0 output. This will be the second
input line for 110VAC.
f. Wire DC connections between voltage doubler and buck boards
i. Cut 6” length of gauge 8/10 wire (ideally red color). Fit eye crimp connector to one side,
solder another to the copper bracket connecting Out “+” outputs.
ii. Bolt the bridge board to the heatsink (don’t forget to apply the thermal grease to the
bridge surfaces). Orient the board so that the Out “+” connectors face the buck board on
the right.
iii. Cut 12” length of gauge 8/10 wire (ideally black color). Fit eye crimp connector to one
side, solder another to the copper bracket connecting Out “-” outputs.
iv. Cut 10” length of gauge 8/10 wire (ideally black color). Fit eye crimp connectors to both
sides.
v. Take the two black wires from III and IV steps above and screw-mount to the middle
terminal of the IGBT. The second wire (the one that is NOT going to the voltage doubler)
will be your charger “-“ output.
vi. Screw-mount the red wire from voltage doubler to the bottom terminal of the IGBT
g. Wire Inductor to the buck board
i. Cut 6” length of gauge 8/10 wire. Solder one end to the Ind2 pad on the buck board,
another end – to the closest lead of the inductor
ii. Cut 10” length of gauge 8/10 wire. Solder one end to the furthest lead of the inductor, fit
eye crimp connector to another end and screw-mount to the top terminal of the IGBT.
h. Wire the output of the buck board to the output relay or diode
i. OPTION 1 – diode
1. Cut 6” length of the bare copper wire gauge 10/12.
2. Make a ¾”-long oval loop on one end, solder the end of the loop. This will be
mounted to the output diode (using the EMW-supplied double diode assembly,
with 2 diodes connected in parallel)
3. Screw-mount the loop onto the two anode terminals
4. Solder the other end of the copper wire into one of the OUT “+” pads in the
upper right corner of the buck board
5. Cut 10” length of a red wire gauge 8/10. Fit eye crimp connector to one side.
Strip 1.5” on the other end and make two eyelets to mount to the cathode of the
diode. Wick with solder for rigidity. Screw-mount to the cathode terminals. This
will be the main output of the charger
ii. Option 2 – relay (not supplied in the kit)
1. Same steps , only instead of the diode, use relay rated for at least 240VAC, 60A
(some 2/3-pole relays rated for 30A can be used if you parallel the poles
together)
2. Ensure connection of the relay to the control board (see below for instructions)
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3. Connect pre-charge circuit across the relay
a. Connect a 330R 10W resistor in series with a 1A 600V rectifier diode
(anode to resistor)
b. Connect resistor end of the assembly to the output of the relay, cathode
end of the assembly to the input of the relay
Apply silicon adhesive between all caps to protect against vibration
Apply silicon adhesive under 4 corners of the board (between the board and the heatsink) to
protect against shorting during board flexing
7. Prepare the bottom enclosure lid
a. Detach one of the lids from the 11x12x8” steel box (OPTIONAL, can be supplied by EMW)
b. Place a heatsink on top of the lid – fins down, in the center, long side along the long side of the
lid. Mark the position of the heatsink on the lid.
c. Make / buy 2 angle brackets (if making yourself, cut 4-5” long pieces from 1” aluminum angle
profile; then drill 2 holes on each side of the angles, tap for 10-32 or 10-24 thread)
d. Place the angle brackets against the center of the side fins of the heatsink and the lid. Mark the
fins through angles’ holes to note mounting hole locations. Drill 1/4” holes through the two
outside fins of the sink.
e. Place the angles between outside fin and the next fin, bolt together with 10-32 or 10-24 bolts.
f. Place sink with angles on the lid. Allow more space (2”) on the side of the heatsink with the
inductor. This is where the fans will be mounted. Mark the lid hole locations through the angles.
Drill ¼” holes in the lid
g. Drill 4 5/16” holes in the lid above the top and below the bottom end of heatsink. Center the
holes 1” from the short side, ¾” from the long side of the lid. Thread 2” 5/16” bolts through
these holes from the top of the lid and secure with lockwashers & nuts (or nylon nuts). These
bolts will serve as the main mounts of the charger
h. Mount the sink on the lid
8. Prepare the main enclosure (below, reference points assume orientation of the box and bottom lid such
that (1) long side is facing you, and (2) the inductor is furthest from you and the driver board is closest)
a. Drill 2 3.5”-diameter holes through the long sides of the box. These will be the air inlets and
outlets for cooling. Best locations (for centers of these holes) are 2.5” off the bottom of the box,
2.5” off the vertical centerline. NOTE THAT YOU STILL NEED THE FANS EVEN IF YOU ARE
BUILDING A LIQUID COOLED VERSION OF THE CHARGER – THESE ARE NEEDED FOR COOLING THE
INDUCTORS! LOWER POWER FANS CAN BE USED (3-5W each) IN THIS CASE BUT YOU STILL NEED
AIRFLOW
b. Align fans with these holes on the outside of the box, mark locations of the fan-mounting holes,
drill 4 3/16” holes for each fan.
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c. Drill 4 3/16” holes in the upper left area of your side of the box – these will be used to mount the
control board. If you have LCD soldered to the control board, position the board vertically to
ensure the right LCD orientation on the back side of the board.
d. If LCD and control buttons are on the control board:
i. Mark up the two holes for the control buttons (according to their position on the board)
– easiest to do from the outside of the box – just make sure you use the right orientation
of the board. Drill the holes ~2mm larger diameter than the top of the buttons
ii. Mark up the outlines of the LCD. Cut out the LCD opening with a Dremel tool
iii. Somewhere close to (but to the side of) the control board, drill a hole for the normallyclosed button that you connected while preparing a control board earlier.
e. Drill 2 5/8” holes to the right of the control board (align vertically). One of these will be used for
a programming cable connector, another – for BMS/EOC/J1772 connector
f. Cut 2 lengths of Velcro / 3M frog tape to mount the AC adapter. Affix one side to the adapter,
another side to the left short side of the box, 1” below the top of the box.
g. Drill 2 ¼” holes – one above the AC adapter, one – below. Mount AC adapter, orienting AC input
to the further side, DC output towards you. Secure the adapter to the box with zip-tie.
h. On the furthest long side, drill 2 ¼” holes (aligned horizontally, same distance from the vertical
centerline, 3” above the fans). These will be used to mount the input/output terminal block
i. 1.5” below these 2 holes, drill a 5/8-3/4” hole on the vertical centerline. This will be used for AC
input and DC output wires. Once threaded through from the inside of the box , these wires will
be connected to the terminal block
9. Prepare the off-board components. Note that connectors are best made out of Pololu wires and
connector housings (http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/71 ,
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/70 – note that these are not included in kits).
a. Cut AC adapter’s cord at 12” from the adapter; solder one line input wire to Out “-“ copper
bracket on the doubler board, another line input wire – to Out “+“ bracket.
b. Mount 12V regulator
i. Using a 2-pin power connector supplied, solder male side to 2 4” wires (yellow and
black).
ii. Fit female side to the DC output of the AC adapter, adding one additional 10” wire to
each female pin (these will be used later to connect the fans)
iii. Cut 2 24” pre-crimped wires (ideally red and black) and slot on the sides of the 3-pin
housing. This connector will later mate with 3-pin connector on the Driver board (+13+
in, GND in)
iv. Mount 12V voltage reg to the left side of heatsink (use the 6-32 hole previously drilled
and tapped). Orient pins towards you.
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v. Solder 2 black wires to the center lead of the 12V reg. Solder yellow wire to left lead.
Solder red wire to the right lead. Make sure you use heat-shrink to protect the
connections.
c. Build connector harnesses.
i. Programming / LCD connectors
1. [if LCD is mounted outside of the main charger box]
a. Spread connections among 3 3-pin, 6” connectors (this way you will be
able to remove the connector from the box if needed). These will be
plugged into the control board (on top of Arduino)
b. Solder other sides of wires (different colors for ease of tracking) to the
outer connector (minimum of 7-pins will be required; we use the round
7-pin connectors)
2. [if LCD & buttons is mounted inside of the main charger box]
a. Built a 12” harness with a 6-position female header on one end (to be
plugged into the control board (on top of Arduino)). Again, you can use 2
3-position headers for easier box assembly / disassembly
b. On the other end of the harness, solder a 6-pin male header. This will be
inserted into the FTDI breakout supplied with the charger
ii. Driver-Control board connections
1. 3-pin 6” PWM output connector. (+12V in, old out, GND in) Control board to
(+12 Out, old in, GND out) Driver board
2. 3-pin 6” voltage sensing input connector. (G, mV, V) Control board to same on
Driver board
iii. 3-pin current sensing connector between Control and Power boards (12”). (G, +5, C) pins
iv. If input / output relays are used, make a 4-5-pin connector for those. Ideally 24” precrimped wires cut in half
v. BMS/EOC/J1772 combo connector
1. Split wires between a 3-pin and 4-pin connectors (or a larger 7-pin connector if
supplied / available). This connector will attach to the male pin strip you install
below arduino board
2. Solder other ends of the wires from these connectors to a 7-pin round connector
provided. Exact pinout is up to you – just make sure that the male connector
pinout you build matches the female.
3. J1772 wiring: J1772 pilot wire from EVSE will have to connect through this 7-pin
round connector to a J1772 output on the control board. Then the ground wire
from EVSE will have to connect to the charger box (as the box will carry the
ground for Arduino board)
d. Build a programming cable
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i. Using a 6-pin male header and a male 7-pin round connector, make an adapter for a
supplied FTDI programming cable
10. Assemble the charger
a. Mount the control board to the pre-drilled location
b. Mount the power terminal block to the pre-drilled location
c. Mount the 7-pin round connectors. Connect to the control board
d. Mount the AC adapter
e. Mount the fans on the inside. Connect fans in parallel, soldering resulting +/- wires to the +/wires you prepared when building a female 2-pin AC adapter connector
f. Connect power harness (from 12V regulator) to the driver board
g. Connect 2 remaining driver board harnesses to the driver board.
h. Turn the bottom lid upside down and lower onto the enclosure box. Bolt together with 2-4 bolts
i. Turn over the assembly
j. Connect DC output of the AC adapter to 12V reg (2-pin power connector)
k. Connect driver board harnesses to control board
l. Connect thermistor to the control board
m. Connect current sensing harness (power board to control board)
n. Thread all 5 power wires through the 5/8” hole under the terminal block
o. Screw power wires onto the terminal block. Fit Inrush current limiters between common
110/220VAC input wire and the terminal block. Mark other side of the block with wire
designations
11. Test the charger. This is the testing sequence we use at EMW on all units. Generally, if any step fails, DO
NOT proceed until you fix whatever is preventing it from passing. USE EYE PROTECTION! WEAR RUBBER
SHOES! DO NOT TOUCH MORE THAN ONE BARE CONTACT AT ANY TIME! The following sequences
assume unmodified firmware (from the official EMW distribution)
a. Upload the firmware
i. Connect the programming cable you made earlier to your PC. Make sure your PC
recognizes the cable and assigns it a separate COM port
ii. Make sure you have latest firmware downloaded from EMW site, and Arduino-0022
downloaded and installed
iii. Make sure your downloaded code has “#define DEBUG” statement (line 40-ish)
uncommented & compile
iv. Connect the cable to the charger and attempt upload
v. Alternatively, you can upload directly onto the small Arduino board using the supplied
programming cable / FTDI breakout board
b. Test logic circuits
i. Make a BMS dongle
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1. Connect loose wires to a 7-pin female plug – use pins you used when connecting
the male connector for BMS / EOC / J1772 outputs (all the wires from the
connector on the bottom of the control board)
2. Connect BMS wire to EOC wire (you would normally connect these to your BMS
loop – for testing, just short together)
ii. Connect BMS Dongle
iii. Connect LCD cable (if you have chosen to make LCD external)
iv. Connect a separate power cord to the AC adapter, plug in to 110VAC. DO NOT CONNECT
THE MAIN AC POWER INPUT YET!
v. Fans should turn on
vi. The screen should go live
vii. On the screen, program the charger to LiFePo4, 30 cells, 3.5 V CV cutoff (‘350’ setting in
the CV menu)
viii. Make sure you calibrate the charger. In this first calibration, use 30-60V battery when
requested to connect battery. Watch polarity!
ix. After calibrations are done, set the charger to max output current of 10A and let it go
into the charging mode (with the battery connected), watch the duty display go up from
zero to 9x%.
x. The output voltage reading on LCD should be very close to your battery voltage. The
current reading should be zero (or 1A max)
xi. Check the heatsink temperature readout. Should be close to ambient
xii. Disconnect AC
c. Test power circuits – FROM THIS POINT ON, YOU *HAVE* TO USE PROTECTIVE GLASSES. One
wrong polarity elcap soldered in reverse can mean a very violent explosion with boiling
electrolyte shooting in all directions. Not fun…
i. Connect 30-60V battery to 220V AC inputs – ideally through a 30A+ DC circuit breaker.
You may want to first connect a 12V battery to test that there are no shorts
ii. Measure input voltage on the IGBT (bottom and middle terminals). Should be equal to
your input voltage minus ~1V
iii. Measure input current if possible. Should be very close to zero.
iv. Connect some load to the charger (best to use 2 110VAC lamps in series. If not possible,
a single lamp would work). Measure output voltage. It should be close to zero
v. Connect the AC cord from your logic test to 110VAC (DO NOT CONNECT THE MAIN AC
INPUT OF THE CHARGER YET!)
vi. Let the charger time out through the calibration routine and power setting routine.
During the power setting routine, note the stated input voltage. It should approximately
match the input voltage you connected
vii. Watch the duty go up from zero to 9x%
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viii. This time, output voltage should go up to ~your input voltage; output current rise may or
may not be indicated (depends on the resistance of load)
ix. Disconnect AC from the adapter
x. Disconnect DC input
d. Test full operation–small resistive load
i. Comment out “#define DEBUG” statement (line 40-ish) in the code, compile & re-upload
ii. Make sure that your previous load still connected
iii. Disconnect the testing power cord from AC adapter, reconnect original cord (the one
connecting to the main charger AC input)
iv. Connect 110VAC to the main 110VAC input of the charger. Use a surge-protected power
strip
v. Fans should start. Screen should go live
vi. Let the initial calibration time out
vii. In the second timeout, press any button. Ensure timeout stopped
viii. Measure output of the doubler (between the bottom and middle terminals of the IGBT).
Should read above 300VDC
ix. Measure the output voltage of the charger. Should be close to zero.
x. Using the buttons, navigate through the menu to start the charger
xi. Watch the duty to go from zero to ~35-40% and stabilize there. Lamp should be
reasonably brightly lit at this point.
xii. Measure voltage on the lamp, confirm that it is close to the voltage displayed on the
screen (up to 10% difference is ok – you will re-calibrate the circuit later)
xiii. Let the charger run for 10 min. Check the heatsink temperature readout. Should be close
to ambient
xiv. Disconnect AC input
e. Test full operation – large resistive load
i. Swap your small load for ~5kW, 240VAC rated load (we use standard water heater
elements like http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-9000092-045-Screw-FlangeElement/dp/B000DZHAQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333343402&sr=8-1 )
ii. Repeat the steps from the previous test (small resistive load test)
iii. As the output is ~1/4 of the rated load (or 1.2kW), you should see some heating of the
heatsink. However, it should be relatively minor (few degrees in 5 min)
iv. Disconnect 110VAC
v. Connect 220VAC (NOTE THAT YOU HAVE TO USE DIFFERENT INPUT TERMINALS FOR
220VAC. FAILURE TO DO SO WILL LIKELY RESULT IN DESTRUCTION OF THE CHARGER)
vi. Repeat the steps from the previous small resistive load test
vii. Power cycle 220VAC
viii. Interrupt the first timeout, select 70 cells
ix. Interrupt the second timeout, set max output current at 25A
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Phone: +1-(650)-906-0477
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Electric Motor Werks, Inc.
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f.
x. Watch the charger ramp from zero to ~70% duty and stabilize there
xi. Observe the heatsink temperature for 5 min. Should not exceed 20 degrees above
ambient
xii. Disconnect AC, load
Test full operation – battery load
i. Short the output
ii. Connect 220VAC
iii. Interrupt the first timeout, set the right number of cells
iv. When asked, connect your traction battery to the output of the charger (OBSERVE
POLARITY). We normally connect 60VDC test battery for the first battery load test –
allows us to further limit potential problems. You may connect your full battery pack
v. Follow the instructions on screen to calibrate the charger again
vi. Watch the charger ramp from zero to some duty cycle corresponding to your battery
voltage (generally will be ~110% * <your battery voltage> / 330VDC)
vii. Let run for 10-20 min, watching temperature
viii. Confirm output current does not exceed target current
ix. Confirm output voltage rise
x. Press and hold red button. Confirm charger suspends operation. Follow instructions on
the screen to resume operation
xi. Let run until battery voltage (as measured by multi-meter) reaches CV cutoff. The
charger should terminate CC stage around the same time
xii. Watch CV stage. Confirm voltage does not go more than 3V above CV cutoff. Confirm
current drops with time.
xiii. Confirm that charger terminates CV stage after ~1 min of running below 0.05C output
xiv. Confirm expected AH count
xv. Disconnect AC
12. Finish your charger
a. Ensure no stray material inside the charger
b. Check for loose bolts / connections
c. Pick up the unit and turn upside down / shake to make sure there are no loose parts
d. If possible, coat all bare high-voltage wires / connections / etc. with Corona Dope (something like
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/4226.html )
e. If desired, do same for all remaining PCBs and connections
f. Close the upper lid, bolt everything together
Congratulations! You now have the best charger money can buy. And you built it yourself!
[email protected]
Phone: +1-(650)-906-0477
Fax: +1-(650)-900-4138
228 Hamilton Ave, 3rd Floor
Palo Alto, CA 94301
USA
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Electric Motor Werks, Inc.
High Performance Electric Vehicle Conversions
http://www.eMotorWerks.com
Go Electric!
Yours truly,
EMW Power Electronics Crew.
[email protected]
Phone: +1-(650)-906-0477
Fax: +1-(650)-900-4138
228 Hamilton Ave, 3rd Floor
Palo Alto, CA 94301
USA
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