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Adjustments required for building EMW SmartCharge-10000 PFC EV Charger
V9.1 (build ID UQYU5927E)

Known omissions / required fixes
o Control board
 R33=100k (not 1k)
Build sequence
1. Assemble the Control board. Tip: place many parts at a time, bending pins on the other side of the board
so that the parts stay in place when you turn over the board to solder. If you can’t find some part ID on
the board / PCB file, do Ctrl-F from within ExpressPCB to find the part. Some of the part numbers may be
hidden due to space constraints etc.
Figure 1: Control Board
a. Solder the male pins supplied to the Arduino board (make sure pins stick out from the side that
has all the Arduino board components)
b. Place 12 1k resistors: R22-32, R34 (ID may not be printed on the board – Ctrl-F in ExpressPCB
software to find part on the board), R36
c. Place 4 10k resistors: R39-42
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Place 2 100k resistors: R33, R48
Place 6.8k resistor: R38
Place 3.3k resistor: R37
Place 270R-330R resistor: R44
Place diode D4
Place 8-pin socket
Solder parts, cut the leads
Place male pins for connectors (7-pin, 2 6-pin, 2 5-pin, 8-pin). Tip: insert all pins, then cover
board from the top with a piece of carton/plastic and then turn over and put on the table. Pins
will stay in place. Solder
Place 8 N2222 transistors: S1-8. Turn over, solder. Cut leads
Place 6 0.1uF caps: C43-48
Place 2 10uF caps: C38-39
Place 2 100uF caps: C40-41
Place 5v voltage regulator: S9 (7805 part number)
Place 2 1nF caps: C49-50
Turn over, solder; cut the leads
Attach female pin headers (2x 12-pin, 6-pin, and 2-pin (latter made out of a 3 or 4-pin header))
to Arduino male pins; Insert the assembly into the control board; turn over and solder
If you decide to mount buttons directly on the control board – more convenient for assembly
but reduces ease of access to the controls of the charger
i. FROM THE BACK SIDE, place buttons D6R-red and D6R-green (or black). Turn over, solder
If you decide to mount the LCD directly on the control board - more convenient for assembly but
reduces ease of access to the controls of the charger
i. Using non-conductive glue, attach a piece of isolating pad to the back of the LCD board
ii. FROM THE BACK SIDE of the control board, place the resulting isolated LCD board
through the pins in the middle of Arduino mounting area. Solder from the top of the
board
iii. Connect a normally closed button between 2 horizontal vias on top of the vertical LCD
connector – below the top 6-pin row of Arduino mounting pins. This is the button that
will later be used to upload the firmware to the charger after it is assembled
v. If you decide not to mount buttons and / or LCD on the control board, you will need to do the
following:
i. Bridge the 2 horizontal vias from the last item
ii. Ensure you bring out all the relevant connectors to the LCD / programming connector
(described below)
iii. Procure a separate small box where to mount buttons and LCD, connecting that box to
the main charger box via a shielded cable
w. Insert LM211 chip (U9)
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x. Install OPTIONAL PARTS (not supplied in kit)
i. Diff driver (used only in multiple-stage charging systems, can be ordered separately from
EMW)
ii. DB9 connectors (recommended ONLY if you are able to cut appropriately shaped cutouts
for these in the enclosure you will be using)
2. Make brackets for the inductors. E-core inductor will be mounted on a heatsink with its leads facing up.
Bracket can be made from 18-22 gauge steel (you can get galvanized steel strips from Home Depot). If
you are building a liquid-cooled unit, you will be mounting inductors to the bottom lid of your enclosure
3. Prepare the top of the heatsink / cold plate (make sure all holes on top of heatsink are drilled between
the fins. All holes are drilled from the top unless specifically mentioned otherwise)
a. If building an air-cooled unit
i. Orient the heatsink you have received from EMW with its long side facing you
ii. Drill 6 holes in the heatsink using the pattern from the power board PCB. For the air
cooled unit, use the holes marked ‘X’ and ‘X1’ on the picture below. Tap with 10-32 or
10-24 or 10-32 thread. Align the holes so that they go between the fins of the heatsink.
These will be used to mount IGBTs and input diode bridges
iii. Drill 2 sets of 2 holes for the inductor brackets on the top left and right sides of the
heatsink, tap with 10-32 or 10-24 thread. Align the inductors’ cores from left to right,
across the fins of the heatsink. Mount the inductors to the heatsink
b. If building a liquid -cooled unit
i. Orient 5.5”-wide, 6”-long cold plate you have received from EMW with the outlets to
one of the sides
ii. Drill 6 holes in the heatsink using the pattern from the power board PCB. For the liquid
cooled unit, use the holes marked ‘X’ and ‘X2’ on the picture below. Tap with 10-32 or
10-24 thread. Align the holes so that they do not interfere with copper tubing of the
plate. These will be used to mount IGBTs and input diode bridges
iii. Drill 2 holes on the horizontal centerline of the plate, close to the right and left sides. Tap
with 10-32 or 10-24 thread. These will be used to mount the plate to the bottom lid of
the charger enclosure
iv. For liquid-cooled unit, the inductors will be mounted off the plate – to the bottom lid of
the enclosure
c. Steps common to both air- or liquid-cooled units
i. Drill a single non-through 1/8” hole in the center of the heatsink/plate for the
thermistor.
ii. Make a 5-pin (only 2 side pins used) thermistor connector. See section “Prepare the offboard components“ for general instructions for making harnesses. Cut 24” pre-crimped
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wires and solder one end to thermistor (heat-shrink-wrap thermistor connections and
thermistor itself to prevent shorting to heatsink).
iii. Using heat glue or super-glue, secure the thermistor in the thermistor hole
iv. If using an output diode for your charger (this is the default configuration of the EMW
kits). It is easier to assemble and does not require any relay control. The trade-off is
slightly higher losses (up to 60W diode conduction loss at the max output)
1. Drill 2 holes for the output diode on the top right side of the plate, tap with 8-32
thread.
2. Mount the diode so that the anode is closer to the power board’s ‘to outRelay’
connector pad’ – you will later connect the anode of the diode to this pad. Make
sure you use thermal paste between diode and sink/plate. Note that the diode
supplied is a dual package in which you have to use both diodes connected in
parallel
4. Prepare the bottom enclosure lid (box is OPTIONAL, can be supplied by EMW but needs to be ordered
separately)
a. Drill 4 5/16” holes in the lid. Center the holes 1” from the short side, ¾” from the long side of the
lid. Thread 2” 5/16” bolts through these holes from the top of the lid and secure with
lockwashers & nuts (or nylon nuts). These bolts will serve as the main mounts of the charger
b. For Air cooled unit
i. Reference design uses a 11x12x8” steel box. Detach one of the lids from the box
ii. Place a heatsink on top of the lid – fins down, in the center, long side along the long side
of the lid. Mark the position of the heatsink on the lid.
iii. Make / buy 2 angle brackets (if making yourself, cut 4-5” long pieces from 1” aluminum
angle profile; then drill 2 holes on each side of the angles, tap for 10-32 or 10-24 thread)
iv. Place the angle brackets against the center of the side fins of the heatsink and the lid.
Mark the fins through angles’ holes to note mounting hole locations. Drill 1/4” holes
through the two outside fins of the sink.
v. Place the angles between outside fin and the next fin, bolt together with 10-32 or 10-24
bolts.
vi. Place sink with angles on the lid. Allow more space (2”) on the side of the heatsink with
the inductors. This is where the fans will be mounted. Mark the lid hole locations
through the angles. Drill ¼” holes in the lid
vii. Mount the sink on the lid
c. For Liquid-cooled unit
i. Reference design uses a 10x10x8” steel box. Detach one of the lids from the box
ii. Place a cold plate on top of the lid – with the water inlets/outlets to the side (either left
or right). Make sure there is space remaining to mount the inductors on top portion of
the lid
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iii. Mark locations of the 2 side holes. Remove the plate, drill 3/16 holes through the lid at
the marked locations
iv. Mount the plate to the lid with 10-32 or 10-24 screws (inserted from the bottom through
the lid into the plate)
v. Drill 4 holes to mount the inductors on the top of the lid using the pre-made brackets
5. Assemble and mount the power board
a. Pre-assemble the top of the power board
i. Solder Resistors (10k, 82k) from the top
ii. Solder 100R (or 91R provided by EMW) resistor and 102 (nF) cap from the top
iii. Solder 2 0.003R current sensing resistors from the top
iv. Solder 50A sensor and 3-pin connector from the top
v. Solder 3 Blue rectangular film caps from the top
vi. Solder 18 Elcaps from the top
b. Assemble diode bridge board
i. Mount 2 diode bridges – insert from the bottom of the board, solder from the top
ii. Reinforce connections between bridge pins (for this, it’s better to keep leads sticking out
~1/4-3/8” after soldering)
1. between negative bridge pins – cut a ~3.5” length of a 12-gauge bare copper
wire (or 3.5” 10-gauge isolated wire) and solder ends to the bridges’ negative
pins
2. between AC pins of the same bridge – similar concept
iii. Take AC cord from the supplied AC adapter (a black brick similar to the laptop power
adapter), cut 12” from the adapter plug, strip line inputs (cut ground – it will not be
used)
iv. Cut 10” length of gauge 8/10 wires. Fit ring crimp connectors to one of the ends of the
wires. These will then be brought outside of the box and connected to a terminal strip to
AC pads of the board.
v. Solder the other ends (together with AC adapter cord) to the AC pads of the bridge
board. Make sure the soldered leads will not touch the sink / plate once the board is
mounted.
vi. Solder 2” length of gauge 12 bare copper wire to “Out +” and “Out –“ - straight up
vii. Mount the board to the sink (ensure AC pads are placed on the outside of the sink/plate
and ‘Out +’ and ‘Out –‘ copper wires are oriented in the right way with respect to the
power board that will be mounted on top of this board). Don’t forget to apply thermal
paste between the IGBT and the heatsink/plate.
viii. Apply silicon adhesive between the board and sink/plate to secure against vibrations
c. Prepare the IGBTs
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i. Mount the IGBTs on a heatsink/cold plate (don’t forget to apply thermal paste between
the IGBT and the heatsink/plate)
ii. Solder together the E2 and G2 pins of the right-side IGBT
iii. Solder together the E1 and G1 pins of the left-side IGBT
iv. Fit the 2 supplied female spade connectors on the E1 and G1 pins of the right-side IGBT
v. Fit the 2 supplied female spade connectors on the E2 and G2 pins of the left-side IGBT
Place the pre-assembled power board on top of the IGBTs. Ensure the following connectors from
other components fit in their respective receiving positions on the power boards:
i. The pins of the spade connector through its mounting holes from the bottom of the
board
ii. Copper wires from the bridge board
iii. Copper wire from the output diode
Secure the board to IGBTs’ top terminals (C2 E1); solder the spade connector pins
Solder the ends of the copper wires threaded through the ‘In +’ and ‘In –‘ pads of the power
board
Solder the copper wire from the output diode
Apply silicon adhesive between all caps to protect against vibration
Wire the output of the charger
i. Cut 10” length of gauge 8/10 wire (ideally black color). Fit eye crimp connectors to both
sides. Screw-mount to the middle terminal of the right-side IGBT. This will be your
charger “-“ output.
ii. OPTION 1 – using output diode (this is the default configuration of the EMW kits). It is
easier to assemble and does not require any relay control. The trade-off is slightly higher
losses (up to 60W diode conduction loss at the max output)
1. Cut 6” length of the bare copper wire gauge 10/12.
2. Make a ¾”-long oval loop on one end, solder the end of the loop. This will be
mounted to the output diode (using the EMW-supplied double diode assembly,
with 2 diodes connected in parallel)
3. Screw-mount the loop onto the two anode terminals
4. Solder the other end of the copper wire into one of the OUT “+” pads in the
upper right corner of the power board
5. Cut 10” length of a red wire gauge 8/10. Fit eye crimp connector to one side.
Strip 1.5” on the other end and make two eyelets to mount to the cathode of the
diode. Wick with solder for rigidity. Screw-mount to the cathode terminals. This
will be the main output of the charger
6. [OPTIONAL] Connect / solder 10k resistor (not supplied with the kit) between the
anode and cathode of the diode. This will help avoid arcing of the input AC
contacts but ONLY if your battery voltage is above 200VDC.
iii. Option 2 – relay (not supplied in the kit)
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1. Same steps , only instead of the diode, use relay rated for at least 240VAC, 60A
(some 2/3-pole relays rated for 30A can be used if you parallel the poles
together)
2. Ensure connection of the relay to the control board (see below for instructions)
3. Connect pre-charge circuit across the relay
a. Connect a 330R 10W resistor in series with a 1A 600V rectifier diode
(anode to resistor)
b. Connect resistor end of the assembly to the output of the relay, cathode
end of the assembly to the input of the relay
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Figure 2: Power Board
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6. Assemble the Driver board. Note that there will be a number of unoccupied positions on the driver
board after you are done – the “missing” parts are required only for the multi-stage systems and are not
needed in this single-unit version
Figure 3: Driver Board
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Place IR1153 PFC surface-mount chip U8, solder
Place 2 ISO124 isolating op-amps: U1,2
Place 8-dip sockets for U6 & U7
Turn over, solder
Solder 1uF ceramic caps DIRECTLY onto the pins of each of the U1,2. Ensure the shortest possible
lead lengths for these caps. Pins to be connected via these caps:
i. 1 & 16, 2 & 16
ii. 9 & 8, 10 & 8
Place 6 1M 1% resistors: R7-12
Place 3 27k 1% resistors: R13-15
Place 220R-300R resistors: R18, 21
Place 90-100R resistor: R16
Place 3.3k resistor: R17
Place 1k Resistor: R20
Place 100pF cap C33
Place 10-12nf cap C36
Place 1uF-4.7uF ceramic cap C37
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Place 1uF caps C32, C35
Place 1nF-10nF cap C34
Place 5 0.1uF caps: C14 (can also be marked C15/16/57 on your Driver boards), 27, 28, 30, 31
Place 3 12V->15V DC-DC converters: U3-5
Hold the tops of the DC-DC converters with a piece of carton/plastic and turn the board over.
Solder all components, trim leads
Place 7 22-50uF elcaps: C20-26
Place a 5-pin high voltage connector into Vbop and Vout mounting pads on the driver board.
Align the connector with the locking tab facing down
Turn over, solder
FROM THE BACK SIDE
i. Insert 2 3-pin and 1 6-pin male pin headers
ii. Hold parts with carton/plastic, turn over, solder
iii. Place 10R power resistors R5 & R6
iv. Turn over, solder
v. Bend R5 & R6 upwards
Install OPTIONAL PARTS (not supplied in kit, used only in multiple-stage charging systems, can be
ordered separately from EMW)
i. Diff driver
ii. Place 0.1uF cap: C29
iii. Place 220-300R resistor: R19
Insert 4 male 90-degree spade connectors into the female spade connectors on the power
board, solderable pins facing you. Position driver board so that these pins fit into the mounting
pads on the driver board. Most of the components on the driver board should be facing outside
of the power board. Solder pins in place
Insert A3120 chips into 8-pin IC sockets
Build a connection harness for HV connector
i. Cut a 10” length of signal wire (AWG 22-16), connect one end to the female pin of the 5pin power connector that corresponds to the Vbop male pin. Solder other end to the
Vbop pad of the power board (top center area). This will be used to sense input voltage
ii. Cut a 4” length of signal wire, connect one end to the female pin going to the Vovp male
pin. Solder other end to the Vovp pad on the power board (center bottom area of the
board)
iii. Cut 2 8” lengths of signal wire (different colors). Connect ends on one side to IsS and IsG
pins on the connector. Twist the wires. Solder other ends to the power board (to the
corresponding pads on the top center portion of the power board)
iv. Cut a 12” length of signal wire, connect one end to Vout pin. Solder other end to the
cathode of the output diode
v. Connect female plug to the driver board
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bb. Insert the driver board into the female spade pins on the power board
i. NOTE ORIENTATION – Component side of the board should face OUTSIDE. Check
schematics if unsure.
7. Wire off-board components
a. Mount inductors using prepared brackets
i. For E-core based inductors, couple of options:
1. Mount on the bottom of the box downstream from the heatsink
2. Mount on the heatsink (if supplied with the larger 8x10” heatsink)
3. In both cases, you want to have direct airflow blowing at the inductors
ii. For Toroid inductors (shipped from December 2012), you can use a couple of different
methods:
1. Dedicated toroid mounts such as #4 hardware from
http://www.alphacoredirect.com/contents/en-us/d51.html. If you are using this
method, you need to be especially careful about inductor cooling as the inner
part of the inductor is no longer available for airflow. To maximize performance,
consider drilling 3-4 matching ½” holes in the washers and the charger box to
enable some airflow through the inner portion of the inductor
2. HDPE brackets holding toroid to the box (use ¾-1” thick HDPE such as this one:
http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/HDPE_Sheet/HDPENAT0-750SR24X48). You
want to make 2 C-brackets
b. Wire Inductors to the power board
i. For the left-side inductor
1. Cut 6” length of gauge 8/10 wire. Solder one end to the Ind1 pad on the power
board, another end – to the closest lead of the inductor
2. Cut 10” length of gauge 8/10 wire. Solder one end to the furthest lead of the
inductor, fit eye crimp connector to another end and screw-mount to the top
terminal of the left-side IGBT.
ii. For the right-side inductor
1. Cut 6” length of gauge 8/10 wire. Solder one end to the Ind2 pad on the power
board, another end – to the closest lead of the inductor
2. Cut 10” length of gauge 8/10 wire. Solder one end to the furthest lead of the
inductor, fit eye crimp connector to another end and screw-mount to the top
terminal of the right-side IGBT.
8. Prepare the main enclosure (below, reference points assume orientation of the box and bottom lid such
that (1) long side is facing you, and (2) the inductor is furthest from you and the driver board is closest)
a. Drill 2 3.5”-diameter holes through each of the long sides of the box. These will be the air inlets
and outlets for cooling. Best locations are 2.25” off the bottom of the box, 2.5” off the vertical
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centerline. (for centers of these holes). NOTE THAT YOU STILL NEED THE FANS EVEN IF YOU ARE
BUILDING A LIQUID COOLED VERSION OF THE CHARGER – THESE ARE NEEDED FOR COOLING THE
INDUCTORS! LOWER POWER FANS CAN BE USED (3-5W each) IN THIS CASE BUT YOU STILL NEED
AIRFLOW
Align fans with these holes on the outside of the box, mark locations of the fan-mounting holes,
drill 4 3/16” holes for each fan
Drill 4 3/16” holes in the upper left area of your side of the box – these will be used to mount the
control board. If you decided to solder LCD to the control board, position the board vertically to
ensure the right LCD orientation on the back side of the board. Make sure these holes do not
interfere with the fan cutouts. Drill 2 holes for the buttons that are sticking out of the back side
of the board.
If LCD and control buttons are on the control board:
i. Mark up the two holes for the control buttons (according to their position on the board)
– easiest to do from the outside of the box – just make sure you use the right orientation
of the board. Drill the holes ~2mm larger diameter than the top of the buttons
ii. Mark up the outlines of the LCD. Cut out the LCD opening with a Dremel tool
iii. Somewhere close to (but to the side of) the control board, drill a hole for the normallyclosed button that you connected while preparing a control board earlier.
Drill 2 5/8” holes to the right of the control board (align vertically). One of these will be used for
a programming cable connector, another – for BMS/EOC/J1772 connector
Cut 2 lengths of Velcro / 3M frog tape to mount the AC adapter. Affix one side to the adapter,
another side to the left short side of the box, 1” below the top of the box.
Drill 2 ¼” holes – one above the AC adapter, one – below. Mount AC adapter, orienting AC input
to the further side, DC output towards you. Secure the adapter to the box with zip-tie.
In the left short side of the box, drill 3/16” hole on the side of AC adapter for mounting main 12V
linear regulator. Good location is 2” from your side, 3.5” from the top. Total dissipation will be 12W so no need for extensive heatsinking but some is required hence mounting the regulator to
the box.
On the furthest long side, drill 2 or 4 (depending on the terminal strip supplied) ¼” holes (aligned
horizontally, the strip should be located ~1” below the top of the box, centered on the long side).
These will be used to mount the input/output terminal block
1.5” below these 2 holes, drill 2 5/8-3/4” holes – horizontally aligned, 1” to each side of the
vertical centerline. This will be used for AC input and DC output wires. Once threaded through
from the inside of the box , these wires will be connected to the terminal block
9. Prepare the off-board components. Note that connectors are best made out of Pololu wires and
connector housings (http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/71 ,
http://www.pololu.com/catalog/category/70 – note that these are not included in kits).
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a. Cut AC adapter’s cord at 12” from the adapter; solder one line input wire to Out “-“ copper
bracket on the doubler board, another line input wire – to Out “+“ bracket. Alternatively, you
could connect the AC adapter to input AC line
b. Mount 12V regulator. Make sure you use heat-shrink to protect the connections
i. Cut 2 12” pre-crimped wires (ideally red and black) in half and slot on the sides of the 3pin housing. This connector will later mate with 3-pin connector on the Driver board
(+13+ in, GND in). Solder the other side to the 2-pin male power connector supplied
ii. Cut 2 10” wires (ideally red and black) and 2 6” wires (same colors). Solder these to the
DC output of the AC adapter (red to positive output, black to negative / ground). One set
of these wires will go to the fans. Another set will go to the 12V regulator.
iii. Mount 12V voltage regulator to the previously drilled hole on the left side of the box
iv. Cut 2 6” wires (ideally red and black). Connect one end of these wires to the female end
of the 2-pin power connector supplied (make sure polarity is compatible with the male
end you made above). For the other ends: Solder red wire to the pin 3 of the 12V reg.
Solder black wire from this step and a black wire from step ii to the pin 2
c. Build connector harnesses.
i. Programming / LCD connectors
1. [if LCD is mounted outside of the main charger box]
a. Spread connections among 3 3-pin, 6” connectors (this way you will be
able to remove the connector from the box if needed). These will be
plugged into the control board (on top of Arduino)
b. Solder other sides of wires (different colors for ease of tracking) to the
outer connector (minimum of 7-pins will be required; we use the round
7-pin connectors)
2. [if LCD & buttons is mounted inside of the main charger box]
a. Built a 12” harness with a 6-position female header on one end (to be
plugged into the control board (on top of Arduino)). Again, you can use 2
3-position headers for easier box assembly / disassembly
b. On the other end of the harness, solder a 6-pin male header. This will be
inserted into the FTDI breakout supplied with the charger
ii. Driver-Control board connections
1. 3-pin 6” PWM output connector. (+12V in, old out, GND in) Control board to
(+12 Out, old in, GND out) Driver board
2. 3-pin 6” voltage sensing input connector. (G, mV, V) Control board to same on
Driver board
iii. 3-pin current sensing connector between Control and Power boards (12”). (G, +5, C) pins
iv. If input / output relays are used, make a 4-5-pin connector for those. Ideally 24” precrimped wires cut in half.
v. BMS/EOC/J1772 combo connector
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1. Split wires between a 3-pin and 4-pin connectors (or a larger 7-pin connector if
supplied / available). This connector will attach to the male pin strip you install
below arduino board
2. Solder other ends of the wires from these connectors to a 7-pin round connector
provided. Exact pinout is up to you – just make sure that the male connector
pinout you build matches the female.
3. J1772 wiring: J1772 pilot wire from EVSE will have to connect through this 7-pin
round connector to a J1772 output on the control board. Then the ground wire
from EVSE will have to connect to the charger box (as the box will carry the
ground for Arduino board)
d. Build a programming cable
i. Using a 6-pin male header and a male 7-pin round connector, make an adapter for a
supplied FTDI programming cable
10. Assemble the charger
a. Mount the control board to the pre-drilled location
b. Mount the power terminal block to the pre-drilled location
c. Mount the 7-pin round connectors. Connect to the control board
d. Mount the fans on the inside. Air direction – from outside into the box. Connect fans in parallel,
soldering resulting +/- wires to the +/- wires you prepared when building a female 2-pin AC
adapter connector
e. Connect power harness (from 12V regulator) to the driver board
f. Connect 2 remaining driver board harnesses to the driver board.
g. Turn the bottom lid upside down and lower onto the enclosure box. Bolt together with 2-4 bolts
h. Turn over the assembly
i. Connect DC output of the AC adapter to 12V reg (2-pin power connector)
j. Connect driver board harnesses to control board
k. Connect thermistor to the control board
l. Connect current sensing harness (power board to control board)
m. Thread all 5 power wires through the 5/8” hole under the terminal block. Ideally, use a rubber
grommet (not supplied) to avoid damage to wires from vibration, etc.
n. Screw power wires onto the terminal block.
o. [OPTIONAL] Fit Inrush current limiters (in parallel if 2 supplied) between common 110/220VAC
input wire and the terminal block. This will reduce AC arcing on connect but will result in
additional 40W dissipation. Alternative to this is described above – placing a 10k resistor across
the output diode. However, the latter method will only work if your battery voltage is above 200
VDC and the battery will always be connected to the charger.
p. Mark the other side of the block with wire designations
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11. Test the charger. This is the testing sequence we use at EMW on all units. Generally, if any step fails, DO
NOT proceed until you fix whatever is preventing it from passing. USE EYE PROTECTION! WEAR RUBBER
SHOES! DO NOT TOUCH MORE THAN ONE BARE CONTACT AT ANY TIME! The following sequences
assume unmodified firmware (from the official EMW distribution)
a. Upload the firmware
i. Connect the programming cable you made earlier to your PC. Make sure your PC
recognizes the cable and assigns it a separate COM port
ii. Make sure you have latest firmware downloaded from EMW site, and Arduino-0022
downloaded and installed
iii. Make sure your downloaded code has “#define DEBUG” statement (line 40-ish)
uncommented & compile
iv. Connect the cable to the charger and attempt upload
v. Alternatively, you can upload directly onto the small Arduino board using the supplied
programming cable / FTDI breakout board
b. Test logic circuits
i. Make a BMS dongle
1. Connect loose wires to a 7-pin female plug – use pins you used when connecting
the male connector for BMS / EOC / J1772 outputs (all the wires from the
connector on the bottom of the control board)
2. Connect BMS wire to EOC wire (you would normally connect these to your BMS
loop – for testing, just short together)
ii. Connect BMS Dongle
iii. Connect LCD cable (if you have chosen to make LCD external)
iv. Connect a separate power cord to the AC adapter, plug in to 110VAC (DO NOT CONNECT
AC TO THE CHARGER – ONLY TO THE AC ADAPTER)
v. Fans should turn on
vi. The screen should go live
vii. On the screen, program the charger to LiFePo4, 30 cells, 3.5 V CV cutoff (‘350’ setting in
the CV menu)
viii. Make sure you calibrate the charger. In this first calibration, use 30-60V battery when
requested to connect battery, ideally through a DC circuit breaker. Watch polarity!
ix. After calibrations are done, set the charger to max output current of 10A and let it go
into the charging mode (with the battery connected), watch the duty display go up from
zero to 9x%.
x. The output voltage reading on LCD should be very close to your battery voltage. The
current reading should be zero (or 1A max)
xi. Check the heatsink temperature readout. Should be close to ambient
xii. Disconnect AC from the adapter
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c. Test power circuits– FROM THIS POINT ON, YOU *HAVE* TO USE PROTECTIVE GLASSES. One
wrong polarity elcap soldered in reverse can mean a very violent explosion with boiling
electrolyte shooting in all directions. Not fun…
i. Connect your 30-60V battery to AC inputs
ii. Measure input voltage on the IGBT (bottom and middle terminals). Should be equal to
your input voltage minus ~1-3V
iii. Measure input current if possible. Should be very close to zero.
iv. Connect some load to the charger (best to use 2 110VAC lamps in series. If not possible,
a single lamp would work). Measure output voltage. It should be close to zero
v. Connect the AC cord from your logic test to 110VAC (DO NOT CONNECT THE MAIN AC
INPUT OF THE CHARGER YET!)
vi. Let the charger time out through the calibration routine and power setting routine.
During the power setting routine, note the stated input voltage. It should approximately
match the input voltage you connected
vii. Watch the duty go up from zero to 9x%.
viii. This time, output voltage should go up to ~your input battery Voltage; output current
rise may or may not be indicated (depends on the resistance of load)
ix. Disconnect AC from the adapter
x. Disconnect battery input
d. Test full operation–small resistive load
i. Comment out “#define DEBUG” statement (line 40-ish) in the code, compile & re-upload
ii. Make sure that your previous load still connected
iii. Disconnect the testing power cord from AC adapter, reconnect original cord (the one
connecting to the main charger AC input)
iv. Connect 110VAC to the main input of the charger. Use a surge-protected power strip
v. Fans should start. Screen should go live
vi. Let the initial calibration time out
vii. In the second timeout, press any button. Ensure timeout stopped
viii. Measure output of the PFC (between the bottom and middle terminals of the right-side
IGBT). Should read above 350VDC
ix. Measure the output voltage of the charger. Should be close to zero.
x. Using the buttons, navigate through the menu to start the charger
xi. Watch the duty to go from zero to ~30-40% and stabilize there. Lamp should be
reasonably brightly lit at this point.
xii. Measure voltage on the lamp, confirm that it is close to the voltage displayed on the
screen (up to 10% difference is ok – you will re-calibrate the circuit later)
xiii. Let the charger run for 10 min. Check the heatsink temperature readout. Should be close
to ambient
xiv. Disconnect AC input
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e. Test full operation – large resistive load
i. Swap your small load for ~5kW, 240VAC rated load (we use standard water heater
elements like http://www.amazon.com/Reliance-9000092-045-Screw-FlangeElement/dp/B000DZHAQO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333343402&sr=8-1 )
ii. Repeat the steps from the previous test (small resistive load test)
iii. As the output is ~1/4 of the rated load (or 1.2kW), you should see some heating of the
heatsink. However, it should be relatively minor (few degrees in 5 min)
iv. Connect 220VAC
v. Repeat the steps from the previous small resistive load test
vi. Power cycle 220VAC
vii. Interrupt the first timeout, set the charger to 70 cells
viii. Interrupt the second timeout, set max output current at 25A
ix. Watch the charger ramp from zero to ~70% duty and stabilize there
x. Observe the heatsink temperature for 5 min. Should not exceed 20 degrees above
ambient
xi. Disconnect AC
f. Test full operation – battery load
i. Short the output (ideally with a load from the previous step)
ii. Connect 220VAC
iii. Interrupt the first timeout, set the right number of cells for your pack
iv. When asked, connect your traction battery to the output of the charger (OBSERVE
POLARITY). We normally connect 60VDC test battery for the first battery load test –
allows us to further limit potential problems. You may connect your full battery pack
v. Follow the instructions on screen to calibrate the charger again for your actual battery
voltage
vi. Watch the charger ramp from zero to some duty cycle corresponding to your battery
voltage (generally will be ~110% * <your battery voltage> / 380VDC)
vii. Let run for 10-20 min, watching temperature
viii. Confirm output current does not exceed target current
ix. Confirm output voltage rise (rate of rise depends on the SOC of your pack)
x. Press and hold red button. Confirm charger suspends operation. Follow instructions on
the screen to resume operation
xi. Let run until battery voltage (as measured by multi-meter) reaches CV cutoff. The
charger should terminate CC stage around the same time
xii. Watch CV stage. Confirm voltage does not go more than 3V above CV cutoff. Confirm
current drops with time.
xiii. Confirm that charger terminates CV stage after ~1 min of running below 0.05C output
xiv. Confirm expected AH count
xv. Disconnect AC
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Phone: +1-(650)-906-0477
Fax: +1-(650)-900-4138
228 Hamilton Ave, 3rd Floor
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USA
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Electric Motor Werks, Inc.
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http://www.eMotorWerks.com
12. Finish your charger
a. Ensure no stray material inside the charger
b. Check for loose bolts / connections
c. Pick up the unit and turn upside down / shake to make sure there are no loose parts
d. If possible, coat all bare high-voltage wires / connections / etc. with Corona Dope (something like
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/4226.html )
e. If desired, do same for all remaining PCBs and connections
f. Close the upper lid, bolt everything together
Congratulations! You now have the best charger money can buy. And you built it yourself!
Go Electric!
Yours truly,
EMW Power Electronics Crew.
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Phone: +1-(650)-906-0477
Fax: +1-(650)-900-4138
228 Hamilton Ave, 3rd Floor
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USA
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