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TEXTILE FIBER PROPERTIES 1. Define the terms. a. Textile fiber: The basic unit from which textile products are made. b. Yarn: A continuous strand of fibers used to weave or knit fabrics. c. Natural fiber: Found in nature in fibrous (fine and threadlike) form. Cellulose and protein are the two major categories of natural fibers. d. Manufactured fiber: Produced either from raw materials found in nature, or synthesized from chemicals. They are broadly divided into regenerated cellulose, regenerated protein, synthetic, mineral, or rubber. e. Generic fiber name: The name given to a manufactured fiber based on the chemical composition. f. Trademark fiber name: The name assigned to a fiber that meets the specific criteria. The “tm” symbol after the name indicates a trademark and “r” indicated a registered trademark. Trademarks and Registered Trademarks are used to protect these products from being copied or counterfeited. For manufactured fibers the fiber manufacturer typically assigns the trademark. For natural fibers, the owner of the trademark name may be a company or an organization other than the producer. g. Staple fiber: Short fibers that are all natural fibers (except silk) are staple fibers. h. Filament fiber: Long continuous fibers extending for great lengths. Silk is the only natural filament fiber. All manufactured fibers are produced as filament fibers. i. Micro fibers: Synthetic fiber finer that one or 1.3 denier or decitex/ thread. j. Warp yarn: The yarns that run the length of the woven fabric. k. Filling yarn: In weaving the weft is the term for the thread or yarn that is drawn through the wrap yearns to create cloth. Warp is the lengthwise or longitudinal thread in a roll, while weft is transvers thread. l. Denier A unit of weight by which the fineness of silk, rayon, or nylon yarn is measured, equal to the weight in grams of 9,00 meters of the yarn and often used to describe the thickness of hosiery. 2. Describe the following: a. Textile Fiber Products Identification Act The Textile Fiber Products Identification Act, also known as the “Textile Labeling Rule”, that requires brands to attach a label to cover the textile products which contains the generic names and percentages by weight of each fiber in the product, the name under which the manufacturer or other responsible party does business or RN number, and the name of the country in which the product was processed or manufactured. b. Wool Products Labeling Act The Federal Trade Commission requires anyone who manufactures or sells products containing wool to accurately label each item with the fiber content and origin. Also any violations of the act can result in seizure and destruction of mislabeled goods, civil fines, and/or criminal penalties. TEXTILE FIBER PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS: DEFINITION OF TERMS Physical Properties 1. Color: Though dependent on the fiber source, most fibers are white or offwhite. The dyeing process is eliminated for naturally colored fibers. 2. Shape: The shape of other manufactured fibers can be changed to influence performance. 3. Luster: A fiber’s sheen or shine is dependent on the light reflected from its surface. 4. Covering power: Ability to hide what is underneath. 5. Surface contour: A microscope view is used to view the surface contour (longitudinal view) and shape (cross-section) of fibers. The longitudinal view and cross-section are used to identify natural fibers. 6. Crimp: Referring to the fibers waviness; Crimp can be added to manufactured fibers. Crimp affects resiliency, resistance to abrasion, stretch, cohesiveness, bulk, warmth, absorbency, luster, and skin comfort. 7. Length: Fibers are broadly divided into staple and filament fibers based on their length. Fiber length is typically used to determine the quality of natural staple fibers such as cotton or wool. The fiber length affects fabric appearance, strength, and hand. 8. Diameter: The width of the cross section. It is measured differently in natural fibers than manufactured fibers. 9. Specific gravity: Compares the mass of a fiber to an equal volume of water. Mechanical Properties 1. Textile strength: Also known as tenacity, it is the fibers strength per unit size. 2. Modulus: The fiber’s resistance to extension. 3. Elongation: A measure of the fiber’s ability to extend when it is pulled along its length until it breaks. The value reported is the length at the breaking point. 4. Elastic recovery: The ability of the fiber to return to its original length after it has been stretched. In determining elastic recovery, the material being tested is extended a specific amount; it is not extended up to the breaking point as it is when evaluation elongation. 5. Resiliency: The ability of the fiber to recover after it has been deformed by compression. Resilience of a fiber affects wrinkle recovery of fabrics whether during garment wear or in the laundry. 6. Flexibility: The fibers ability to bend or fold without breaking. Flexibility affects fabric hand and drape. It also affects resistance to flex and edge abrasion. 7. Dimensional stability: The ability of a material to hold its shape over a period of time and under specific conditions. 8. Abrasion resistance: The ability of a fabric to resist surface wear caused by flat rubbing contact with another material. Chemical Properties 1. Absorbency: A fibers ability to take up water. 2. Electrical conductivity: 3. Effect of heat: Fibers that melt when heated or burned are known as thermoplastic fibers. The reaction of a fiber to heat is determined by the chemical composition and physical structure of the polymers. Exposure of the fiber to heat or flame can be used to identify a fiber group. 4. Flammability: The quality of being ignited and burning rapidly. 5. Chemical reactivity and resistance: Chemical reactivity is the reactions of a single substance and chemical resistance is the ability of solid materials to resist damage by chemical reactivity or solvent action. Environmental Properties 1. Sensitivity to microorganisms and insects: Fibers like cotton and regenerated cellulosic get discolored and eventually rots by microorganisms like mold and mildew; most synthetic fibers remain unaffected by microorganisms. 2. Sensitivity to environmental conditions: Exposure to sunlight and air pollution will cause some fibers to deteriorate. TEXTILE FIBER PROPERTIES AND CHARACTERISTICS STUDY GUIDE 1. What are the general common properties and characteristics of the following groupings of fibers? a. Cellulose (natural): The general common properties of natural cellulose fibers, obtained from plant sources, are sub-divided based on the part of the plant from which the fiber is obtained. b. Proteins: The natural proteins in fibers are obtained from animal sources, are broadly divided into two sub- categories based on their source. c. Cellulose (manufactured): The general properties of manufactured cellulosic fibers are that they are low strength, weaker when wet than dry, low abrasion resistance, ignite easily and burn rapidly, oftern damaged by insects, mold and mildew. d. Synthetic long chain polymers: A polymer that is manufactured in industry from chemical substances through the polymerization process. Identify the significance of the following terms: a. mercerization: The significance of mercerization is that it’s a chemical treatment applied to cotton fibers or fabrics to permanently impart a greater affinity for dyes and various chemical finishes. b. green cotton: c, organic cotton: The only cotton that meets the criteria set for organic products can be labeled as organic cotton. d. beetling: Used to make linen or cotton fabrics hard, flat, and very shinny. e. Merino wool: A material made from one of the worlds most ancient breeds of sheep. f. virgin wool: g. h. lamb’s wool: sericulture: i. wild silk: j. raw silk: k. duppioni silk: l. pure dye silk: Define the following terms: a. Hydrophobic – b. Hydrophilic – c. Olephilic – d. Wicking – Sample #43 Fiber content: __________________________________________ Fabric name: __________________________________________ Sample #84 Fiber content: _________________________________________ Fabric name: __________________________________________ Using these samples as a “base”, compare and contrast the fiber properties of Natural and manufactured/synthetic fibers (of course, there are natural and Manufactured fibers other than cotton and polyester):