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SKIN CARE PRACTICES
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?
Anatomy: Study of the human body. What can be seen with
the naked eye and how the body is organized. Example:
Skeleton and muscles
Histology: Microscopic anatomy- can’t be seen with the
naked eye. The study of tiny structures found in living
tissues. Example: Tissues
Physiology: The study of functions and tasks performed by
the body’s structures. Example : How/why your heart beats
SKIN TO SKIN
Your skin is made up of two basic layers. Each layer
plays an important role. The 'dermis' is the
deepest(inner) layer and it is responsible for making
new skin cells; and the 'epidermis' is the outer-most,
superficial skin layer and the only one of the skin
layers that sheds dead cells, this is the layer that
microdermabrasion removes.
WHAT’S YOUR JOB
In the world of Skin there are a few different specialist and it is
important to know who to see and when it is important to do so.
Dermatologist: Is a DOCTOR who specializes in skin, hair, and nail
disorders and diseases.
Esthetician: Is a cosmetologist that specializes in skin procedures.
(cleansing, beautifying, and perserving)
Dermatological Oncologist: Is a skin cancer doctor
THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT
THE SKIN
Dermatology: The study of medicine dealing with skin, hair, and
nails.
Melanocytes: Cells that make the dark pigment in the skin called
Melanin.
Melanin: Little grains of pigments (colouring) that are made by
melanocytes and are dumped into the epidermis. There are two types
of Melanin: Pheomelanin – red and yellow and Eumelanin– dark
brown-black
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hh2um8ruRtc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wtD5V6cMfrM
 Collogen: Gives the skin shape and strength. (no wrinkles)
 Acne: Is a skin disorder where the is constant inflammation of the
skin. Happens when skin isn’t properly cleaned/taken care of OR can
be hormonal.
 Comedo: Blackheads. Hair follicle filled with skin debris (keratin
squamae), bacteria and oil (sebum).
 Papule: Pimple. A bump on the skin that has no liquid but has the
potential to develop pus.
 Pustule: An inflammed bump that is essentially a pimple with pus.
It has a yellow or white center and is known as the head of the lesion.
 Sebum: Is a oily or fatty secretion that moisturizes the skin and preserves
the softness of the skin. When it gets clogged can cause zits.
 Bulla: Large Blister
 Cyst: a closed sac that has fluid/pus/semifluid in it. Can be found above or
below the skin.
 Macule: flat coloration of the skin. Example: Freckle
 Tubercle: A very large papule.
 Tumor: An abnormal mass varying in size
 Vesicle: Small blister
 Wheal: Hives, an irritated/itchy/swollen lesion that only lasts a few hours.
 Crust: Scabs, the dead cells that form over a wound or blemish
while healing
 Excoriation: Skin sore produces by a scrape of scratch
 Fissure: A crack in the skin that breaks through the dermis. Really
dry hands
 Keloid: Thick scar (does not lay flat on the surface)
 Scale: Dandruff. A tiny dry or oily plate of epidermal flakes.
 Scar: Lightly raised mark on the skin
 Ulcer: Open wound on the skin or on a mucous membrane within
the body. It could weep fluids.
6 FUNCTIONS OF SKIN
 Protection: saves body from injury and bacterial invasion. The
epidermis is resistant to water, temperature, bacteria, and minor
injuries.
 Sensation: One of the 6th senses. Touch. Your skin has nerve
endings that enable you to respond to cold, heat, touch, pressure,
pain, an itch, and so on.
 Heat Regulation: Protects your body from over heating or getting
too cool. We have an internal temperature of about 37 degree Celsius.
 Excretion: Goes together with heat regulation because your
skin allows your body to cool by sweating. Your skin allows
your body to push out toxins and chemicals via the
perspiration.
 Secretion: Your skins natural oil is called Sebum and it
lubricates your skin keeping it soft and moldable.
 Absorption: Your epidermis can absorb some things
especially if it is formulated to do so. Like cosmetic produces
and lotions.
VITAMINS
 Vitamin A: Promotes overall health of skin, helps health, function,
and repair od skin cells. Can improve elasticity and thickness.
 Vitamin C: Needed for repair and healing of skin and tissues, aids
is collagen production.
 Viamin D: Helps the body absorb and utilize calcium, needed for
proper bone development, and aids in rapid healing of the skin.
 Vitamin E: Protects skin from UV rays.
SKIN CARE
Different Skin Types
OILY SKIN
OILY - FEATURES
• Large pores all over the face
• Somewhat of a sheen on the face
• May be some pustules or comedones
• Orange peel texture
COMBINATION
COMBINATION DRY FEATURES
Large pores down the center of the face
Pores are smaller or become invisible towards the
outer edge of the face.
• May be some comedones or pustules in t-zone
COMBINATION OILY FEATURES
 More distribution of large pores in the T-Zone.
 Large pores may continue to cheeks and diminish towards the edge
of the face.
NORMAL
NORMAL - FEATURES
• Small pores (hardly noticeable) over the entire face
• Skin looks ‘youthful’ and ‘healthy’
• Few to no comedones or pustules
• Soft and smooth
DRY
DRY - FEATURES
• Small pores over the entire face or not visable
• Dry patches (may look somewhat irritated)
• May have fine lines and wrinkles
• May be dry and rough to the touch
SENSITIVE
SENSITIVE - FEATURES
• Sensitive is a condition NOT a type (ie. someone
could have any skin type but also be sensitive)
• Red patches that look inflamed/irritated
ACNE
ACNE - FEATURES
•
Large pores over the entire face
•
Numerous putules and comedones
•
Acne is hereditary. (It’s in their genes)
•
**don’t be misled – if someone with acne has small pores and dry patches,
it is likely they are on medications to dry out the pustules. People with acne
will naturally always have oily skin.
THE SKIN OF IT…
 Protein: Are long, coiled, complex polypeptides made of amino acids.
 Keratin: Is a fibrous protein of cells that is also the principal
 Keratinization: When new hair is formed it goes through this process
where the newly formed mature cells fill up with fibrous protein called
Keratin. Once filled they move upward, lose their nucleolus, and die.
Therefore, hair is dead. That’s why it doesn’t hurt to cut it.
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?
 Skin on the Scalp is the same as the skin else where on your body
except that scalp has bigger and longer hair follicles to accommodate
the long hair on the head.
 The skin under your eyes and on your eye lid is the thinnest skin
on your body. It can easily be damaged. However the skin on the
palms of your hands and the bottom of your feet are the thickest and
are harder to damage.
H2O
 50-70% of our body weights is made up of water.
 How much water you should drink in a day depends of your body
type/size and what type/how much physical activity you do in the
day.
 Water sustains the health of your hair, nails and skin, it keeps your
internal temperature stabilized, keeps your metabolism going, and
increases brain function.
THE GOOD, THE BAD, THE
UGLY
 Less then 15% of aging is cause by your genes.
 85% of aging is due to factors you can control like getting proper
sleep, eating healthy, drinking water, protecting your skin from the
sun.
http://www.everydayhealth.com/skin-and-beauty/agingskin/common-culprits-of-skin-damage.aspx
UVA AND UVB
 UVA- Aging rays. They penetrate deep into the skin and can even
go through glass/windows. They weaken collagen and elastin fibers
which causes wrinkling and sagging
 UVB- Burning rays. They cause sunburns and tanning, and most
skin cancers.
THE BAD STUFF
 Smoking and Nicotine: Smoking produces free radicals and they
are unstable molecules that cause biological aging. Over time these
molecules can have a devastating effect. They cause lots of wrinkling
and sagging of the skin. Also, it cause oxygen deprivation of the skin
and body, affects blood flow which cause pollution in your body from
toxins.
DISORDERS OF THE SKIN
 Sebaceous Glands: Mila, Acne, rosacea
 Suderiferous Glands: Anhidrosis (NO SWEAT), Bromhidrosis
(BAD B.O), Miliaria Rubra (Actue imflammatory disorder of the
sweat glands)
 Inflammations of the skin: Conjunctivitis (Pink eye,) Eczema
(Itchy, dry, flaking skin,) Herpes (Cold Sores,) Psoriasis (Dry, red,
flakey patch usually on legs and arms)
DISORDERS OF THE SKIN
Pigmentations of the skin: Hyper(Hypo)pigmentation (dark or light spots on the
skin,) Albinism (Albino, lack of pigment in the skin,) Chloasma (Sun Spots of liver
spots,) Lentigines (Freckles,) Nevus (birth mark,) and Stain (Birthmark)
Hypertrophies of the skin: Keratoma (Callus,) Mole (Changes in moles need medical
attention,) Skin Tag (raise piece of skin can be caused by friction,) and Verruca
(warts)
SKIN CANCER
 Basal Cell Carcinoma: Most common and least severe. Can appear
as dry red spots.
 Squamous cell carcinoma: More severe than Basal. Can appear as
red scabby spots)
 Malignant Melanoma: The most severe but the least common. Can
appear as brown/black spots that are flat or raised. They can feel
roughly and uneven where your skin use to be smooth.
ALLERGIES
 If you notice a client is allergic to a product STOP the service and
discontinue use of that product line.
 You are mostly like going to spot an allergy on YOUR OWN
fingers, palms, back of the hands and on THEIR face, cheeks, scalp,
hairline, forehead, neckline.
FACIALS
 Contraindication: Is a condition that requires certain treatments
that need to be avoided. For example: If you are on medication like
Accutane which can cause thinning of the skin then you must avoid
services such as waxing, and stimulation services. Or if you are
pregnant, have seizures/epilepsy, metal or bone pins or have a
pacemaker then you should avoid electrical treatments. For more info
please see page 714 in Milady’s textbook.
FACIALS
 Cleansing Milk: Non foaming cleaners that can be applied with
hand or tool but needs to be removed with wet cloth/sponge. They
can be used on all skin types but maybe types specific.
 Foaming Cleansers: Usually are heavier and have detergents in
them so that they foam and can be easily removed. They are generally
made for combination or oil skin types.
FACIALS
 Skin conditions include:
-Dehydration-pinch the skin gently if the skin shows a visible formation on lines it
may be dehydrated. You should use an appropriate moisturizer to aid in
dehydration.
-Hyperpigmentation
-Sensitive skin
-Rosacea
-Aging Skin
-Sun damage
FACIALS
 Toners: Two types fresheners (dry skin) and astringents(oily skin) that help
balance the skins pH level and cleanses the skin.
 Exfoliators:
-Mechanical: roll of masks or scrubs
-Chemical: loosen or dissolve cell buildup
-Enzyme peels: Natural products from plant extracts like papaya and pineapple
 Moisturizers: You need to a find the right product for your client’s skin. Oily
skin needs lotion that has smaller amounts of emollients. Dry skin needs a heavier
cream that has more emollients. (oily fatty ingredients)
FACIALS
MASKS:
 Clay-based masks: Absorb oil and have an exfoliating/astringent effect (best for oily skin)
 Cream masks: Contain oils and emollients. Are good for moisturizing skins. (best for dry skin)
 Paraffin wax: Used with creams, melted to a little warmer than body temp. Helps the open
pores so the creams can be better absorbed into the skin.
 Modelage: Plaster and crystal mix that is used with creams. The chemical reaction causes an
increase in temperature.
 Treatment Cream: a product designed to change the skin’s appearance and is used with other
masks.
FACIALS
Massage
Effleurage: light, continuous, rhythmic stroking movements
Petrissage: Kneading movements (lifting, squeezing, pressing) with your knuckles
and finger tips
Friction: deeper pressure. Usually, only done on arms and legs.
Tapotement: quick tapping or slapping movements
Vibration: rapid shaking of a body part.
See page 726 in Milady’s textbook
CREDIT
 These slides were made using Milady’s Textbook