Download Ch #23 Facials Power Point Notes

Chapter 23
Facials
Skin Analysis & Consultation
• Skin Analysis is one of the most important
parts of the facial service because it
determines what type of skin the client
has, the condition of the skin and what
type of treatment the client’s skin requires
• Consultation allows you the opportunity
to ask the client questions about their
health and skin as well as advise them
about the appropriate products and
treatments
2
Intake Form
During the consultation a client will fill out an intake
form that will ask many health questions that will
allow you to identify any contradictions
• Contradiction is a condition the client has, or a
treatment the client is undergoing, that might cause a
negative side effect during the facial treatment.
Example: a client using Retin-A should not receive
any waxing or exfoliation procedures
3
Main Contradictions
•
Use of Accutane, Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac, or Differin – NO Waxing,
Exfoliating, Peeling or Stimulating treatments
•
Pregnancy – No electrical treatments
•
Metal pins or plates – No electrical treatments
•
Pacemakers / Heart Irregularities – No electrical treatments
•
Allergies – always use non-fragranced products for sensitive skin
•
Seizures or Epilepsy – No electrical or light treatments
•
Oral Steroids (Prednisone) – No stimulating or exfoliating treatments, No waxing
•
Autoimmune disease (lupus) – No stimulating treatments
•
Diabetes – No services without physicians approval. Diabetics heal very slowly
•
Blood Thinners – No waxing or extractions
4
When in doubt – DON’T
A cosmetologist DOES NOT treat skin diseases. However, as a
professional, you must be able to recognize the presence of various
skin aliments in order to suggest that the client seek medical advice
from a physician
After a skin analysis and consultation if you have any doubts DO NOT
provide the service & refer the client to a physician
5
Skin Type
Is determined by how oily or dry the skin is
Skin type is hereditary
Skin type can not be permanently changed with
treatments, although the skin may look considerable
better after treatment
6
Skin Types
Oily
Dry
Normal
Combination Dry
Combination Oily
Acne
7
Skin Condition
Are characteristics of the skin associated with a
particular skin type
8
Skin Conditions
•
Oily – open & closed comedones, clogged pores, shiny, thick
appearance
•
Dry – aka “alipidic” tight, poreless looking, dehydrated with fine
lines and wrinkles, dry and rough to the touch
•
Normal – very unusual (most common is combination skin)
•
Combination Dry – may have clogged pores in the nose, chin
and center of forehead. Dry , poreless towards the outside
edges of the face
•
Combination Oily – comedones, clogged pores or obvious
pores in the center of the face (T-zone)
•
Acne – presence of numerous open and closed comedones,
clogged pores, and red papules and pustules
9
Skin Conditions Cont’d
Hyperpigmentation – dark blotches of color, caused
by sun exposure or hormone imbalances
Treated with mild exfoliation and home care products
that discourage pigmentation
Daily use of sunscreen and avoidance of sun
exposure are very important for this skin type
10
Skin Conditions Cont’d
Sensitive skin has a tin, red-pink look and is easily
inflamed by some skin care products
Avoid strong products, fragranced products or strong
exfoliates
Rosacea is chronic hereditary disorder that can be
indicated by constant or frequent facial blushing. It is
considered a medical disorder and should be
diagnosed by a dermatologist. Client should be
treated with products specially formulated for
rosacea
11
Dry Skin
Otherwise known as Alipidic – “lack of lipids” / Asteatosis – arrested
action of the sebaceous glands
Dehydrated skin can be flaky with small fine lines and wrinkles
Dehydration can be caused from lack of care, over-drying skin care
products, sun exposure, lack of water intake
Dehydrated skin is treated by using hydrators that help to bind water to
the skin surface
Proper hydration will result in smoother-looking and softer skin
12
Oily Skin
Produces too much sebum
Will have large pores
Skin may appear shiny or greasy
Pores may be clogged from dead cells building up in the hair follicles
There may be open comedones or closed comedones
13
Open vs. Closed Comedones
Open comedones are blackheads, they are a mixture of solidified
sebum and dead cell buildup stuck in the follicles
Closed comedones are small bumps just underneath the skin surface
14
Acne
The presence of pimples in oily areas indicates acne
Acne is a disorder in which the follicles become clogged, resulting in infection of the follicle
with redness and inflammation
Acne bacteria are anaerobic, which means that they cannot survive in the presence of
oxygen. Follicles are blocked with solidified sebum and dead-cell buildup, oxygen cannot
readily get to the bottom of the follicle where acne bacteria live.
•
Acne papules are red pimples that do not have a pus head
Pimples with a pus head are called pustules
Pus is a fluid inside a pustule, largely made up of dead white blood cells that tried to fight
the infection
CAUTION – always wear gloves when performing extractions because acne skin contains
infectious matter
15
Skin Care Products
Skin care products are classified into 6 main categories:
•
*Cleansers
•
*Toners
•
*Exfoliants
•
*Treatments (serums)
•
*Masks
•
*Moisturizers
16
Cleansers
Are designed to clean the surface of the skin and to
remove make-up
Cleansing Milks – are non-foaming lotions.
Designed to cleanse dry and sensitive skin
Foaming Cleansers – contain detergents that cause
the product to foam and rinse easily. Designed for
combination or oily skin types. Some have
antibacterial ingredients for acne-prone skin
17
Toners
AKA- Freshners or Astringents
Helps close the pores and pH balance the skin
Sometimes contain ingredients to help remove dead
cells
Applied with cotton pads or sprayed onto the face
18
Exfoliants
Remove excess dead cells from the skin surface, the
skin will look smoother and clearer
Help to clear the skin of clogged pores and can
improve the appearance of wrinkles, aging, and
hyperpigmentation
2 main categories:
•
mechanical
•
chemical
19
Mechanical Exfoliants
Granular scrubs
Gommage – roll-off masks
Microdermabrasion
Skin brushing
20
Chemical Exfoliant
Either loosen or dissolve dead cell buildup
Can be used for a short time, although some may be worn as a day or
night treatment
Alpha Hydroxy or Beta Hydroxy Acids
Wrinkles appear less deep, skin discolorations fade, clogged pores are
loosened and reduced, and new clogged pores are prevented
These acids encourage cell renewal, resulting in firmer and healthierlooking skin
Enzymes peels which dissolve keratin in the surface cells
21
Proper exfoliation may improve the
appearance of the skin in the
following ways
Reduced clogged and oily skin
Promotes skin smoothness
Increases moisture content and hydration
Reduces hyperpigmentation
Decreases uneven skin color
Eliminates or softens wrinkles and fine lines
Increases elasticity
Speeds up cell turnover
Allows for better penetration of treatment creams and serums
Make-up applies more evenly
22
Moisturizers
Help increase the moisture content of the skin surface
Help the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Allows for a smoother make-up application
Protects the skin from environmental damage
Mixtures of humectants or water-binding agents and emollients or fatty
ingredients that prevent moisture from leaving the skin
Moisturizers for oily skin contain significantly less emollients
Moisturizers for dry skin contain more emollients and are often heavier
23
Sunscreens
Shield skin from sun exposure
Cumulative sun exposure causes the majority of skin cancers, and
prematurely ages the skin
Every client should be instructed to use a daily sunscreen. Look for
daily moisturizers that contain broad-spectrum sunscreens, which
means that they protect against both UVA and UVB sunrays. An SPF15 or higher is considered to be adequate strength
24
Treatments
Serums or ampoules are concentrated products that
generally contain higher amounts of ingredients that
have an effect on skin appearance
25
Masks
Products that are applied to the skin for a short time,
but have more immediate effects
26
Clay Masks
used for oily skin, oil absorbing
make large pores appear smaller.
They may contain sulfur which is an antibacterial
ingredient to treat acne-prone skin
Cream Masks
do not dry on the skin
contain emollients and humectants
have a strong moisturizing effect
Gel Masks
for sensitive skin
help plump surface cells
Alginate Masks
seaweed based
come in a powder form
dry to a rubberized texture
they create a seal that encourages the skin’s
absorption of serums or creams
Paraffin Masks
Apply over creams or serums
the heat allows for a deeper penetration into the
surface layers of the skin
Modelage Mask
Contain special crystals of gypsum a plaster like
ingredient
When mixed with water it creates a chemical reaction
where it heats up and hardens
The heat increases blood circulation and is very
beneficial for dry skin
Not recommended for sensitive skin, oily skin , or
blemished skin
Massage
•
Is the manual or mechanical manipulation of the body by rubbing,
gently pinching, kneading, tapping, and other movements to increase
metabolism and circulation, promote absorption and relieve pain. It
also helps to keep the skin healthy and their muscles firm
•
It is important that when you are giving a massage that you use a firm sure touch
•
Keep your hands soft by using creams and lotions. File and shape your nails to avoid
scratching your client’s skin
34
Massage Cont’d
•
The impact of massage treatment depends on the amount of pressure,
the direction of movement, and the duration of each type of
manipulation involved
•
The direction of movement is always from the insertion to origin
•
Massaging a muscle in the wrong direction could result in a loss of
resilience and sagging of the skin and muscles
35
Basic Massage Manipulations
Effleurage
•
Light continuous stroking movements applied with the fingers in a
slow, rhythmic manner
•
No pressure is used
•
Palms work the large surface, while the cushions of the fingertips work
the small surfaces
•
Used on the forehead, face, scalp, back, shoulder, neck, chest, arms,
and hands
•
It has soothing and relaxing effects and should begin and end every
massage
36
Basic Massage Manipulations
Petrissage
•
Kneading movement performed by lifting, squeezing, and pressing the
tissue with a light, firm pressure
•
Petrissage offers deeper stimulation to the muscles, nerves and skin
glands and improve circulation
•
Usually limited to the back, shoulders, and arms
•
Digital kneading can also be used on the cheeks with light pinching
movements, pressure should be light but firm
•
Movements must be rhythmic and never jerky
•
Fulling is a form of petrissage in which the tissue is grasped, gently
lifted, and spread out, used mainly for massaging the arms
37
Basic Massage Manipulations
Tapotement
•
AKA- “percussion”
•
Short, quick tapping, slapping, and hacking movements
•
Most stimulating and should be applied with care and discretion
•
Tone the muscles and impart a healthy glow to the are being
massaged
•
In facial massage, use only light digital tapping. Bring the fingertips
down against the skin in rapid succession
•
Hacking is a form of tapotement in which chopping movements are
performed with the edges of the hands. Used only to massage the
back, shoulders, and arms
38
Basic Massage Manipulations
Friction
•
Deep rubbing movement in which you apply pressure on the skin with
your fingers or palms while moving it over an underlying structure
•
Significant benefit on the circulation and glandular activity of the skin
•
Typically used on the scalp, arms, and hands
•
Chucking, rolling and wringing are variations of friction, and are used
mainly to massage the arms and legs
39
Basic Massage Manipulations
Vibration
• Rapid shaking of the body part while the balls of the
fingertips are pressed firmly on the point of
application
• A highly relaxing movement that should be applied at
the end of the massage
• It increases muscle tone in the muscles of the body
40
Effects of Massage
•
To obtain proper results from massage, you must have a thorough
knowledge of the structures involved, including muscles, nerves,
connective tissues, and blood vessels.
•
Every muscle has a motor point, which is a point on the skin over the
muscle where pressure or stimulation will cause contraction of that
muscle
•
Relaxation is achieved through light but firm, slow, rhythmic
movements, or very slow, light hand vibrations over the motor points
for a short time. Another technique is to pause briefly over the motor
points, using light pressure
41
Motor Points
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
42
Facial Manipulations
•
The best manipulations to use on the face are that an even tempo, or
rhythm, brings on relaxation
•
Do not remove your hands from the client’s face once you have started
the manipulations
•
Should it become necessary to remove your hands, feather them off,
then gently replace them with feather-like movements
43
Chin Movement
• Lift the chin using a slight pressure
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
44
Lower Cheek
• Using a circular movement, rotate
from chin to ears
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
45
Mouth, nose, & cheek
• Follow diagram
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
46
Linear movement over the
forehead
• Slide fingers to the temples and
then stroke up to hairline, gradually
moving your hands across the
forehead to the right eyebrow
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
47
Circular movement over the
forehead
• Starting at the eyebrow line work
across the middle of the forehead
and then toward the hairline
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
48
Crisscross Movement
• Start at one side of the forehead
and work back
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
49
Stroking
• Slide your fingers towards the
center of the forehead and then
draw your fingers, with slight
pressure, toward the temples and
rotate
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
50
Brow and eye movement
• Place your middle fingers at the
inner corners of the eyes and your
index fingers over the brows. Slide
them towards the outer corners of
the eyes, under the eyes, and then
back to the inner corners
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
51
Nose and upper cheek
movement
• Slide your fingers down the nose.
Apply a rotary movement across
the cheeks to the temples and
rotate gently. Slide your fingers
under the eyes and then back to
the bridge of the nose
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
52
Mouth and nose movement
• Apply a circular movement from the
corners of the mouth up to the
sides of the nose. Slide your
fingers over the brows and then
down to the corners of the mouth
up to the sides of the nose. Follow
by sliding your fingers over the
brows and down to the corners of
the mouth again
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
53
Mouth & Nose Movement
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
54
Lip and chin movement
• From the center of the upper lip,
draw your fingers around the
mouth, going under the lower lip
and chin
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
55
Optional Movement
• Hold the head with your left hand,
and draw the fingers of your right
hand from under the lower lip and
around mouth, moving to the center
of the upper lip
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
56
Lifting movement of the
cheeks
• Proceed from the mouth to the ears
and then from the nose to the top
part of the ears
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
57
Rotary Movement of the
cheeks
• Massage from the chin to the ear
lobes, from the mouth to the middle
of the ears, and from the nose to
the top of the ears
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
58
Light tapping movement
• Work from the chin to the earlobe,
from the mouth to the ear, from the
nose to the top of the ear, and then
across the forehead. Repeat on the
other side
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
59
Stroking movement of the
neck
• Apply light upward strokes over the
front of the neck. Use heavier
pressure on the sides of the neck in
downward strokes
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
60
Circular movement over the
neck and chest
• Starting at the back of the ears,
apply a circular movement down
the side of the neck, over the
shoulders, and across the chest
03/11/2012
Free template from www.brainybetty.com
61
Male Skin
• Not all that different from female skin
• Needs more attention in the areas of the face where
there is hair growth
• Use downward motions in the area of beard growth
62
Facial Equipment Magnifying Lamp
used to analyze skin
Facial Equipment - Steamer
• Helps to soften the tissue, making it more accepting
of moisturizers and other treatment products.
• Steam also helps to relax and soften follicle
accumulations such as comedones and clogged
follicles, making them easier to extract
• Precautions should be taken with clients who have
asthma or other breathing disorders
64
Facial Equipment –
Brushing Machine
•
Rotating electrical appliance with interchangeable brushes that can be
attached to the rotating head.
•
Larger and stiffer brushes are used for back treatments
•
Smaller softer brushes are used for the face
•
form of exfoliation
•
Administered after steaming
•
A thick layer of cleansing cream should be applied so the brushes will
not scratch the face
•
Brushes must be thoroughly cleansed and disinfected between clients
65
Facial Brushing Machine
Facial Equipment – Suction &
Spray
• The skin suction machine increases circulation
• spray machine can be used on any type skin to
deliver lotions or toners
67
Electrodes
Electrode – an applicator for directing the electric current from the
machine to the client’s skin
Anode – positive electrode usually red or indicated by a + sign
Cathode – negative electrode usually black or indicated by a - sign
Electrotherapy
• Use of electrical currents to treat the skin
•
Galvanic & High Frequency
• Desincrustation – process of softening and
emulsifying hardened sebum stuck in the hair
follicles
• Iontophoresis – process of using galvanic
current to enable water-soluble products that
contain ions to penetrate the skin
Galvanic
•
Current forces the product deeper into the
follicle
• Current also produces a chemical reaction
that helps to loosen the impacted sebum.
Microcurrent
*Type of galvanic
*Best know for helping tone skin & produce a lifting
effect for aging skin that lacks elasticity
Tesla High Frequency
• can be used to stimulate the blood flow and help
products penetrate
•
Can be applied after extractions for acne prone skin b/c of its
germicidal effects
•
Electrodes are made of glass and contain various types of gas such as
neon, which light up as a color when current is flowing through them
Light Therapy
•
Using light exposure to treat conditions of the skin
•
LED – Light Emitting Diode
•
Concentrated light that flashes very rapidly
•
Red Light – treats aging and redness
•
Blue Light – treats acne-prone skin
Microdermabrasion
• A type of mechanical exfoliation uses a closed
vacuum to shoot aluminum-oxide crystals onto the
skin, bumping off cell buildup that is then vacuumed
up by a suction
• It is primarily used to treat wrinkles and aging skin
Extractions
Facial Treatments
• Fall into two categories
• Preservative – maintains the health of the facial skin
by cleansing correctly, increasing circulation, relaxing
the nerves, and activating the skin glands and
metabolism through massage
• Corrective – correct certain facial skin conditions,
such as dryness, oiliness, comedones, aging lines,
and monor conditions of acne
Preparation
•
Set up your room for client, have all your supplies, bed made, soft music, light candle
•
Wash your hands
•
Greet client
•
Conduct consultation
•
Show client to dressing room
•
Assist client onto the facial table
•
Drape the clients head
•
Wash your hands
•
Place cotton over their eyes and examine skin under magnifying lamp
Facial Procedure
•
Apply cotton pads with eye-make remover over the clients eyes
•
Use cotton pad with make-up remover to cleanse clients lips
•
Gently stroke the eyes to remove make-up
•
Apply cleanser and use sweeping movements to cleanse the skin in
upward motions
•
Remove cleanser
•
Analyze skin to determine the rest of the products to be used for facial
•
Optional – eyebrow arching
•
Steam the face
•
Perform extractions
•
Exfoliate
•
Remove exfoliant
•
Massage the face using all facial manipulations
•
Remove massage cream
•
Apply mask
•
Remove mask
•
Apply toner
•
Apply specialty serums / eye creams
•
Apply moisturizer
Clean Up & Sanitation
•
Discard all disposable supplies (used)
•
Close product containers tightly
•
Disinfect your tools
•
Wash your hands
•
Remove drape and show client to dressing room
•
Meet your client and take them to the reception area where you should
discuss their home care system, make sure that you provide them with
written instructions to take home
•
Place used linens in the hamper
•
Sanitize your workstation