Download READING ATHENS – The … ideal city 1 The ACROPOLIS – `In the

ATHENS ROUTES
THE IDEAL CITY final
READING ATHENS – The … ideal city
1 The ACROPOLIS – ‘In the beginning there was …’
The dazzling outcrop satisfied all prerequisites for permanent settlement. Reinforced with
fortification, it first became a Mycenaean citadel, which then turned into the ‘Sacred Rock’ that
housed the patron goddess and other deities, and in the classical period the glorious building
complex exhibited the supremacy of Athens. It was later converted into a Christian sanctuary
concentrating once again the local highest authority, whereas during the Ottoman dominion it
was inhabited for a second time. The modern Greek state has restored the monument to its
ancient form, ‘cleansed’ from all subsequent human interventions.
Between the lines and beyond words
The veneration of antiquity by classicism would explain, on the one hand, the plans of a great
German architect to build the royal palace amidst the Acropolis monuments and, on the other,
the rejection of the proposal by the philhellene king of Bavaria. The Acropolis is a world
heritage monument and unquestionably the symbol of Athens!
2 The THEATRE OF DIONYSUS (2nd half of the 4th c. B.C., later interventions) and the
‘PERIPATOS’ – An unappreciated innovative project and … a tour around the Acropolis
The first theatre in the world that celebrated the cult of god Dionysus was completed in stages.
The flattened circular space of the orchestra was embraced by wooden tiers set into the hillside,
which were later replaced by stone, and the stage. When the theatre turned into a permanent
structure the koilon was expanded integrating, as one of the landings, a part of the walkway that
ran around the foot of the Sacred Rock which was intended for leisure and offered spectacular
view. During the Roman period the stage became monumental.
Take a closer look at
The podium that was covered with reliefs and the parapet of the orchestra are indications that
the theatre must have hosted assemblies of the Ekklesia and possibly … some virtual sea battles
during the Roman period. An early Christian basilica was later erected on the site.
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THE IDEAL CITY final
Take a closer look at the ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE OF THE SANCTUARY OF DIONYSUS
The theatre was an organic constituent of the sanctuary: the initial core of the structure and the
first temple of Dionysus date back to the 2nd half of the 6th century B.C. As we wonder about the
site we walk along the trails of ancient streets. We might be able to guess what the ruins found in
the cave at the beginning of Tripodon Street and the columns a bit further up were. With a little
luck we might run into some of the inhabitants of the nature reserve.
3 The ACROPOLIS MUSEUM (Bernard Tschumi and Michael Photiadis, 2000-2009) – A
dialogue … in summit
The much debated museum fully respected the archaeological finds which were unearthed during
construction without making concessions to its architectural rationale. Like a modern art
sculpture made of glass, concrete and marble the edifice places emphasis on optimal conditions
of natural light and visitor movement. The pure geometry of the structure, which has been
integrated into the architectural and natural environment, culminates in the Parthenon Gallery
that follows the orientation of its prototype.
Between the lines and beyond words
In a way, building a shelter for the Acropolis treasures is the equivalent of putting together the
ideal museum. Let’s think about the demands that such a project entails. Will it last in time, I
wonder?
Take a closer look at the ‘WEILER BUILDING’
It was one of the first public buildings of the new capital that served initially as a military
hospital. The Centre for the Acropolis Studies is not a pure neoclassical edifice. What do its
masonry and arched openings remind us of?
The ‘SCHOOL OF THE ACROPOLIS’ Parallel con-texts
One of the school buildings erected in the 1930s that followed the norms and forms of
modernism converses with the Parthenon. In fact, its architect also relates to the Acropolis
Museum.
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THE IDEAL CITY final
4 ‘SMALL APARTMENT BUILDING’ (Vasilis Kouremenos, 1930) and DIONYSIOU
AREOPAGITOU STREET (1857) – A different debate and unusual … prose
In the art deco apartment building, which has recently become famous due to its location, the
neoclassical spirit complies with the underlying principles of modernist architecture. At the same
time features such as the plinths of the lamps and the mosaics on the facade bestow upon the
building a profound Greek quality. Being pole of leisure and recreation the pedestrian street that
extends to Apostolou Pavlou Street propounds the ‘reading’ of the book of the city between the
unique pages of its historical, architectural and natural landscape.
Between the lines and beyond words
The idea of creating an ‘archaeological precinct’ or ‘park’ had already been articulated in the
early plans of Athens. The pedestrianization was eventually undertaken within the context of the
unification of its archaeological sites. It would be interesting to see how the ideas were
implemented …
Take a closer look at DIONYSIOU AREOPAGITOU STREET and the HOUSE OF
PROCLUS
Along the pedestrian street some fascinating buildings engage in conversation either deliberately
or not with the Acropolis exemplars, whereas the ‘imprints’ of the ground plan of a luxurious
Late Roman residence underline the city’s philosophical tradition.
5 The HERODEION (160-174 A.D.) and the STOA OF EUMENES (160 B.C.) – Famous and
other works and … their fate
Commissioned by Herodes Atticus in memory of his wife, this lavish Roman odeon consisted of
a semi-circular koilon and orchestra, an imposing three-storey stage and a roof made of timber
that was truly a technical accomplishment at that time. Together with the two-storey Hellenistic
stoa that was already used by the spectators of the theatre of Dionysus it was later incorporated
into the city’s fortification and the byzantine Rizokastro structure that enclosed the base of the
Acropolis. Today the monument has been fully reconstructed and hosts cultural events that add a
touch of magic to the Athenian summers.
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THE IDEAL CITY final
The ODEON OF PERICLES and the ASCLEPEION – Parallel con-texts
Another odeon, which was an earlier structure, and a sanctuary that was subsequently built were
also amongst the primary components of the religious, spiritual and cultural hub that was
gradually established on the South Slope of the Acropolis.
6 The ACROPOLIS HILLS: PHILOPAPPOS HILL and MONUMENT (114-116 A.D.) –
Texts dedicated to …
Initially the hills to the west of the Acropolis played a key role in the life of the ancient city,
which was later limited to defense. The Hill of the Muses is known by the name of the
benefactor who adulated Athens and the funerary monument erected by its citizens to honour his
memory, which dominates the top of the hill. On the side that faces the Acropolis it was
especially decorated with statues and reliefs. Today the hill remains a favourite promenade for
ramblers and the best place for … flying kites on Clean Monday.
The ATELIER SPYROS VASSILIOU – Parallel con-texts
The home and studio of the artist who repeatedly used the long-gone city as his model have been
specially arranged so as to display some of his most distinctive works. Closer to the Acropolis,
the home and studio of another eminent painter designed by himself and Pikionis no longer
survives; he, of course, has become a legend … *
7 The LANDSCAPING OF THE ACROPOLIS HILLS: the CHURCH OF HAGIOS
DIMITRIOS LOUMPARDIARIS and REFECTORY (Dimitris Pikionis, 1954-1957) –
Philosophy and poetry
Probably the most significant work of the great architect, this landscaping is interlaced with the
natural environment and the historic monuments by implicit geometry that highlights the
timeless course and ecumenical values of the Hellenic civilization. Endemic plants of Attica,
stone-paved walkways, benches, multiple viewpoints and the reconstruction of the legendary
Byzantine church and the nearby ‘snuggery’, they all pave the way both physically and
spiritually for our acquaintance with the masterpieces of the Sacred Rock.
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Between the lines and beyond words
Within the context of the entire intervention carried out by Pikionis, the restoration of the church
is explicit of its interpretation. On its masonry as well as in many different hubs of the
landscaping lie symbols of a secret language that needs to be deciphered …
Parallel con-texts
The architect made effective use of the theory on the geometric alignments of the Acropolis,
which had been articulated by one of his students who later became internationally recognized
as the designer of ‘ideal cities. Let’s recall his utopian plans of a settlement not far away from
Athens …**
8 The DIATEICHISMA and ‘the DIPYLON OVER THE GATES’ (end of 4th c. B.C.) –
Embellishments and deletions
The military saint Dimitrios superseded the ancient deities that protected the gate from their
small shrine located between the bordering hills. The wall that ‘diverted’ the ancient fortification
by connecting the crests of the west hills remained in use as the city’s first line of defense until
the 12th century undergoing continuous repairs. The once vibrant Athenian neighbourhoods that
were left out were gradually desolated, thereby turning into a large cemetery.
9 ‘The ROAD THROUGH KOILE’ (6th c. B.C. – 1st c. A.D.) and ANCIENT DISTRICTS –
Binding and popular … texts
Along the ravine between the hills ran the supra-local artery of the Koile district, which was one
of the most densely populated municipalities of classical Athens, and connected the city with
Piraeus shielded by the Long Walls. Today we can still discern the road which is carved out of
the rock, the ‘incised’ marks of the carriages and the dense web of private and public buildings,
streets and infrastructure networks. The neighbouring municipality of Melite that evolved into
the aristocratic ancient district was the place of residence of eminent Athenians.
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Take a closer look at
The ancient fortification and the view of the sea will remind to some of you the ‘wooden walls’,
which Themistocles advocated, or even the proposal of transferring the Greek capital to …
Piraeus.
10 The HILL OF THE NYMPHS and the PNYX (end of 6th-4th c. B.C.) – Dense meanings
Being the place where old and new deities resided the hill was known as the seat of the Athenian
Assembly (Ekklesia). Its configuration recalls the structure of ancient theatres, with the audience
sitting on the hillside, which was later flattened, facing the speakers’ platform. The complex was
gradually expanded and enhanced by robust walls. Despite the fact that it was never completed
and that its political significance was practically diminished, it remains a time-honoured symbol
of democracy which stresses our shared responsibility of the book of the city.
Take a closer look at the NATIONAL OBSERVATORY OF ATHENS
The neoclassical edifice was built on the historic due to the ancient … heliotropion placed at the
Pnyx. Today both of them will help us undertake a scientific interpretation of the city.
Between the lines and beyond words
How is a city actually created? We do have the case-study of a very specific historic city that
stretches before us. Starting off with the Acropolis we ‘read’ its terrain exploring the ways in
which the topography has affected its form and its history. The initial orientation of the Pnyx
towards the ‘open book’ of Athens was not reversed accidentally …
Athens owes its worldwide fame to its natural environment, its ancient heritage, its architectural
monuments, the democracy, the theatre and the philosophy that have shaped its legend and
turned it into a timeless value and a capital city. I am wondering if all this has been considered
from a positive point of view only. When the book of a city depends either on its idealized version
or its demonized face then the creation of a real and better city becomes everyone’s
responsibility.
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Interpretation ‘keys’
* Reference is made to the painter Constantinos Parthenis
** Reference is made to architect and urban planner Constantinos Doxiadis and to the Aixone
settlement designed by Pikionis
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