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Internal Skincare:
Eating Your Way to Healthier Skin.
Skin Inc. August 2001
It’s not a myth—we are definitely comprised of the elements that we eat. These elements are absorbed into the
bloodstream and feed every cell. Each month we renew our skin, every six weeks we have a new liver and every
three months we have new bones. In order to renew and rebuild these organs and tissues, we need to supply our
bodies with the materials that have been lost as a result of constant use, degeneration
or aging.
The problem is that we’re not getting enough nutrients to keep our cells fed. The Standard American Diet or SAD
(an acronym that is most appropriate) is grossly inadequate and almost devoid of many nutrients. Americans are
overfed and undernourished. Adding to the problem, many drugs interfere with the absorption of key nutrients.
For example, tetracycline interferes with calcium, magnesium and iron absorption, and many antibiotics interfere
with the absorption of the B vitamins, while oral contraceptives and hormones reduce levels of water-soluble
vitamins.
It has been well documented in scientific literature that nutrition can play a key role in skin health. In relation to
skin disease and aging, the bad news is that poor nutrition can accelerate skin degeneration. The good news,
however, is that a healthful diet complete with optimal nutrition can help forestall, prevent, and even reverse skin
conditions. Knowing this, it becomes clear that if you add an optimal nutrition plan to every skin care regimen,
your clients can literally eat their way to healthier
skin while they promote their total well-being.
What to Eat
Nutritionists commonly advise that people “eat a rainbow” of fruits and vegetables every day. Whenever possible,
fruits and vegetables should be eaten raw. If they are cooked, they should be steamed to retain nutrients, or else
lightly boiled. Even better, waterless cooking in the microwave preserves the most nutrients. While many believe
that organic food is best, it may not always be available or cost-effective for everyone. In any case, there are
Buy organic:
Peaches
Apples
Sweet bell peppers
Celery
Nectarines
Strawberries
Cherries
Pears
Imported grapes
Spinach
Lettuce
Potatoes
Don’t have to buy organic:
Onions
Avocados
Sweet corn
Pineapples
Mangos
Asparagus
Sweet peas
Kiwi
Bananas
Cabbage
Broccoli
Papaya
12 foods that should always be bought organically and there are also 12 foods that don’t have to be bought as
organically grown products, says The Environmental Working Group (EWG).
In addition to fruits and vegetables, whole grains, lean proteins and healthy fats provide the nutrients the body
needs for optimal nutrition. Moreover, adding scientifically formulated dietary supplements to the diet can also be
helpful as they offer the nutritional insurance needed to further optimize an individual’s personal nutrition profile.
Supplements cannot replace foods, however, especially because we need good sources of fiber like fruits and
vegetables. Supplements should only be used to augment the diet.
Inflammation and Cell Water Loss
Whether eaten in food form or taken as a supplement, an “internal skin care” program should incorporate
plenty of anti-inflammatory foods and dietary nutrients. As we age, the body develops an ability to react
disproportionately to what it perceives as an injury or invasion—either too much or too little. Inflammation is really
a sign that the body is attempting to protect itself. It is also a sign of cellular water loss. Inflammation causes
cell damage and has been linked to countless conditions from Alzheimer’s disease to diabetes to heart disease,
and even wrinkles. When cells are not fully hydrated, they cannot function at optimal levels and this leads to
cell damage and aging. Additionally, when cells deteriorate, the immune response does not function well. So,
based on this “Water Principle,” the collective idea is to reinforce cellular membranes, prevent cell water loss and
encourage the accumulation of intracellular water to ensure that all cells and connective tissues function at their
best. But drinking water isn’t the answer—the cells have to be fed. An anti-inflammatory diet will fortify connective
tissue, cells and their membranes with the antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and lipids they need for quick healing,
resiliency, and supple, youthful skin.
Anti-inflammatory Foods
Anti-inflammatory foods include foods stocked with antioxidants or brightly colored fruits and vegetables, and
healthful, EFA-rich protein. In skin cells, such as those found in the stratum corneum, EFAs (essential fatty acids),
which are found in cell membranes, actually enhance the immune system as they strengthen the skin’s barrier
function. In other words, EFAs play a part in cutaneous immunity. In sum, obtaining a good amount of EFAs
through outside sources is essential to total health. In addition, alpha linoleic and gamma linolenic acids are
ceaseless inflammation stoppers, as is durian extract and even sulfur.
Alpha-linoleic acid (ALA) works together with antioxidants such as vitamins C and E. It is important for growth,
helps to prevent cell damage, and helps the body rid itself of harmful substances. ALA is found in vegetables,
beans, fruits, flaxseed oil, canola oil, wheat germ, brewer’s yeast, and walnut oil and raw walnuts.
Gamma linolenic acid (GLA) is an EFA in the omega-6 family that is found primarily in plant-based oils. It is less
common than ALA, but can be found in seed oils such as borage, evening primrose, black currant and hemp.
Durian is another anti-inflammatory food, but we don’t see much of it in the United States. It’s a native plant to
Asia that offers a one-two punch to inflammation. Together, the omega-3 EFAs and antioxidants in durian act
synergistically as they moderate the induction of inflammatory mediators, decreasing free-radical tissue damage;
and inhibit collagen and elastin breakdown from matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), natural enzymes in skin that
degrade the skin matrix.
Early studies have also indicated that sulfur-containing foods like garlic, onions, meat, and cruciferous vegetables
can offer anti-inflammatory and detoxifying benefits. Sulfur is found in every living cell in the body and it plays a
key role in collagen synthesis.
Special Concerns
While inflammation-abating foods are good for cell health in general, there are some nutrients that are better than
others for specific skin conditions.
Acne: Vitamin A helps normalize the production of excess skin cells within the follicles that clog the pore.
Vitamins B1, B2, B3 and B6 assist with tissue growth and repair, and zinc helps reduce the inflammation of acne.
Antioxidants like grape seed extract also reduce inflammation from acne and free radicals.
Menopausal Skin Issues: Melatonin, in addition to regulating sleep, is a powerful antioxidant that helps protect
nuclear and mitochondrial DNA. Glucosamine is the building block for the ingredients needed to heal or repair the
dermis, as well as all of the rest of the connective tissue throughout your body. And GABA, which is responsible
for the regulation of muscle tone, is also a key nutrient.
Stressed Skin: B vitamins and glucosamine are essential for tissue repair and healing, as is vitamin C, coenzyme
Q 10, and pomegranate, which boosts skin’s natural SPF. In addition, oregano an anti-inflammatory herb and
curcumin, which comes from turmeric (found in curries), offer cell protective and anti-cancer benefits. Zinc
also relieves inflammation and EFAs strengthen skin cell membranes. Lecithin, which is mainly comprised of
phosphatidylcholine, is also excellent for stressed or over-processed skin as it is a major component of cellular
membranes. Lecithin makes cell membranes strong so intracellular water doesn’t leak.
The ‘Pitcher’ of Health
Stepping away from the traditional idea of a food pyramid, consider the symbolism of a pitcher—a vessel that
provides water. The food groups within the pitcher encourage intracellular water as they give the body the
nutrients it needs to feed cells for overall health and youthful skin.
Fruits and vegetables form the base of the pitcher. We should eat more of these foods than any other group—3
or more servings a day of fruits and 5 or more servings of vegetables—for example, a small or medium-sized fruit
like an apple is one serving and half a cup of chopped vegetable is one serving. Fruits and vegetables are rich in
phytochemicals like polyphenols and the healing antioxidants the body needs.
Whole grains (4 to 8 servings daily) would be the next level up in the pitcher. A serving would be one slice of
whole grain bread or a third cup of cooked brown rice. Avoid refined grains and carbohydrates (sugars). Whole
grains are sources of magnesium and selenium. Magnesium is a mineral used in building bones and releasing
energy from muscles. Selenium protects cells from oxidation, and it is also important for a healthy immune
system.
Proteins (4 to 6 servings daily) would be the third level up inside the pitcher and this includes omega-3-rich fish,
white-meat chicken, eggs, soy foods, fat-free and low-fat dairy products, and beans and provide most of our
amino acids. Avoid high-saturated fat meat products and whole-fat dairy foods. A serving would be one medium
egg or 3 ounces of fish. Amino acids give the body all the raw materials it needs to build collagen and elastin, the
two substances necessary for keeping the dermis and blood vessels firm, strong, and smooth.
Healthy fats should be limited to just 3 to 4 servings a day and are next up within the pitcher. One serving would
be a teaspoon of olive oil or alternatively 6 almonds. “Healthy” fats are unsaturated, such as omega-3, -6, and
-9 fatty acids, which are found in flaxseed oil, extra-virgin olive oil, canola oil, natural-style nut butters, cold-water
fish, and nuts.
Near the top of the pitcher, is space for supplements and water to address any dietary deficiencies.
Bridging the Nutritional Gap
Most people do not even realize that the skin symptom they see in the mirror and fatigue they feel are the result
of nutrient deficiencies. We may not know the precise amounts of nutrients that each person’s body needs to
close the gap between what’s consumed and what’s missed, but we do know that certain dietary nutrients can
counteract inflammation, stress, and neutralize free radicals. It’s important to remember that before there was
medicine, there was food.
While not an exhaustive list, the aforementioned nutrients offer an internal route to skin health. The best that we
can do is eat well and take supplemental nutrients in amounts that are greater than we can easily consume in the
foods we eat, but not so much that we create imbalances or reach toxic levels. These changes can be part of a
long-term, inclusive solution, augmenting current topical skin care regimens to improve the look of skin, while at
the same time increasing longevity and health down to the cellular level.