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1
Ocean Currents
Ocean water circulates in currents
caused by wind and by density
differences
Currents are the flow of water
between areas of different surface
levels or different densities
Ocean Currents
 Ocean water moves constantly
sideways, up, down because it is:
Blown by wind
 Moved by differences in density below
the surface zone
 Heated unevenly
 Evaporated unevenly

Ocean Currents
 Ocean water moves constantly
sideways, up, down because it is:
Affected by Earth’s rotation (Coriolis)
 Pulled by sun & moon

CURRENTS
Currents are important because they moderate climates, mix
nutrients and oxygen, and transport larvae and nekton.
They are caused by the:
1. Spin of the Earth on its axis and the Coriolis effect
2. Warm air from equator
flows toward poles,
drives air circulation,
makes wind
3. Continents deflect
east-west water
movement, but not air
NASA
NOAA
5
Coriolis Effect
 Causes currents to move Clockwise in
the Northern Hemisphere
Counterclockwise in the Southern
Hemisphere
 Causes westward moving currents to be
intensified (move much quicker)
7
EKMAN TRANSPORT
8
Surface Currents
 Affect the uppermost 10% of world
ocean
 Some rapid & riverlike, some slow
and diffuse
 Largest organized into gyres
The circular patterns of surface water currents are called gyres.
The characteristics of a current depend upon where the water is
coming from in the gyre.
In the Northern hemisphere the gyre is (right) clockwise, and in
the southern hemisphere the currents are (left) counter
clockwise.
12
East Coast of
United States
Eastern boundary
currents are
located on the
eastern side of the
OCEAN - not the
continent.
Gulf Stream
in red
Florida
Western boundary
currents are
located on the
western side of
oceans.
16
Surface Currents
17
Effect of Surface Currents on Climate
 Surface currents distribute heat
worldwide
 Warm water flows to higher latitudes
 transfers heat to the air and cools
 Moves back to low latitudes
 Absorbs heat
 Repeats
Vertical Movement
 Upwelling – upward movement of
water (from deeper to shallower
water)
 Brings nutrients
Vertical Movement
 Downwelling – downward movement
of water – caused by:
 Brings dissolved gases and nutrients
to deeper ocean
EL NIÑO
Normally, trade winds
blow warm surface water
toward the western
Pacific.
When the Trade Winds falter, warm water piles up in the western
Pacific about 1 & ½ feet higher than the average ocean surface due
to wind and Ekman transport.
This causes the thermocline to rise near the surface in the
eastern Pacific.
25
Cold, nutrient-rich water wells up from the thermocline to the
surface waters off the coast of Peru - good for fishing.
This image
shows normal
sea surface
temperature in
the Equatorial
Pacific Ocean in
January 1997.
Notice the
warm water is
in a pool in the
western
Pacific Ocean.
NOAA
26
El Niño describes abnormal oceanic and atmospheric conditions.
First noticed off the coast of Peru around Christmas time, the
condition was called El Niño referring to the Christ child.
28
El Niño’s weaker trade
winds blow warm
water eastward,
across the equatorial
region of the Pacific.
NOAA
This depresses the thermocline across the Pacific, and stops
upwelling.
29
Because warm water evaporates faster, the air fills with more water
vapor and it produces more rain.
El Niño occurs
primarily in the
tropical Pacific
Ocean but it
affects global
weather.
31
La Niña
NOAA
When too much westerly wind blows surface water near the
Americas, it has an effect on the weather that is often opposite
to El Niño, called La Niña.
32
Comparison of El Niño and La Niña
 El Niño
 La Niña
warmer ocean temperatures
colder ocean temperatures
occurs every 3-7 years
frequency unknown
wetter than normal summers
drier than normal summers
weak trade winds
strong trade winds
decreases hurricanes forming
in N. Atlantic
33
1997 was the warmest year of the century and the strongest El Niño
in 40 years. Oddly, five of the century’s warmest years have been in
the last decade.
NASA
34
Thermohaline
currents are
found on the
ocean floor.
“Thermo” refers
to temperature
and “haline”
refers to salinity.
NASA
Water slows down below the pycnocline (area defining water
masses of different densities) to 1-2 meters/day.
Cold water sinks at the poles and crawls toward the rising
warmer water at the equator.
NASA
35
Density Structure of the Ocean
Seawater weighs 2-3% more than
pure water
Cold, salty water is more dense
than warm, less salty water
Much of the ocean can be divided
into three density zones:
 surface, pycnocline & deep
Density Zones
 Surface or Mixed Zone
 Temperature, salinity & density
constant due to currents and
waves
 In contact with atmosphere
 Exposed to sunlight
 Least dense water
 2% all of ocean water
 ~150 meters deep
Density Zones
 Pycnocline aka Thermocline aka
Halocline
 Density increases with depth,
temperature decreases, salinity
increases
 Isolates surface water from denser
layer below
 18% of all ocean water
Density Zones
Deep Zone
Below pycnocline
Depth below 1000 m
Little change with depth
80% of all ocean water
Density
stratificaiton in
the ocean
Temperature, Salinity & Stratification
 Surface zone well mixed, little
temperature change with depth
 Pycnocline temperatures drop rapidly,
density increases, temperature
decreases
 Deep zone, little temperature change
with depth – a cold, stable zone
Below pycnocline/thermocline
water very cold 1-3 deg C
Average temperature of ocean
3.9 deg C
Density Stratification & Water
Movement
 Water mass – body of water with
same temperature and salinity
 Even deepest water originates at
surface
 Evaporation makes dense salty water
 Dense water mass trapped at depthocean is stratified
Density Stratification & Water
Movement
Dense water masses form:
near poles (as water freezes)
in enclosed areas (where water
evaporates)
Density Stratification & Water
Movement
Water masses below pycnocline
do not mix – no energy – too cold
Density Stratification & Vertical
Water Movement
 Vertical movement possible when
surface-water and deep-water density
similar
 Water in tropics very stable (no
exchange)
 Water in northern polar ocean very
unstable (due to salinity differences)
Thermohaline Circulation
 90% of ocean water below surface zone
gravity driven
 Dense water sinks, less dense water rises
 Density is a function of temperature and
salinity – movement of water due to
density differences called thermohaline
circulation
 Can take hundreds of years to circulate
 Water masses form at the surface
 Densest and deepest form where
water becomes very cold and salty (at
the poles)
Circulation of the Atlantic Ocean
The Global Heat Connection
Because they transfer large
quantities of heat, ocean currents
affect world weather and climate
The transport of tropical water to
the polar regions is part of the
global conveyor belt for heat
transfer
Ocean Flow
The slow, steady flow of water
distributes dissolved gases and
solids
mixes nutrients
transports juvenile marine
organisms among ocean basins