Survey
* Your assessment is very important for improving the workof artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project
* Your assessment is very important for improving the workof artificial intelligence, which forms the content of this project
Helpful Hints for Constructing Post Frame Buildings Commercial Suburban le ilab a v A 5 in 2 rs o l co s plu til Mu es o T n Agricultural Post Frame STEEL PANELS • UL Class “A” fire rated • Highest impact resistance (Class 4) • UL580 Class 90 Wind Uplift • 100,000 PSI Minimal tensile strength Not available in Copper Colored or Multi-Tone. COPPER COLOR BARKDUST BAY HARBOR BLUE GOLD RUSH NORTHWEST SLATE TWILIGHT BLACK WOODLAND TIMBER Table of Contents Before Getting Started Talk to Local Building Inspector Items Recommended Traditional Post Frame Construction Page 4 4 String Line Building Dimensions 5 Square the Building 5 Setting Corner Posts 6 Post Location 7 Grade Board 9 Girts10 Headers11 Truss Location 12 Raising Trusses 13 Purlins14 Bracing14-15 Sliding Door Framing 16-17 Sliding Door Accessories and Trim 18-19 Tab Lock Sliding Doors 20-21 Kwik Frame Sliding Doors 22 Overhead Door Framing 23 Bookshelf Post Frame Construction 24-27 Accessories & Trim 52-54 Overhangs and Trim 28-29 Windows30 Service Doors 31-33 Dutch Doors 34-35 Storing, handling, and cutting panels 36 Panel Installation 37-39 Skylite40 Wainscot and Eavelite 41 Pro-Anchor™, Post covers, Coil stock trim 42 Interior Liner Panel 43 Insulation44 Ventilation45 Cupola Installation 46-47 Horse Stalls 48-49 Gutter Installation 50-51 3 Before Getting Started This Helpful Hints Guide has been developed to help you construct your post frame building and makes no representation or guarantee that you will be able to successfully complete your building. It is important that questions be asked before you get too far into construction. Study this manual carefully before starting construction. You can use it as a guide and refer to it during construction. Have you talked to your local building inspector? We suggest you check with your local building official regarding site location, permit procedures, safety regulations and specifications of the materials used to construct your new building. PLEASE NOTE: This Helpful Hints Guide is intended solely to provide general knowledge as to one of the many ways that a post frame building may be constructed. Builders who utilize this guide must proceed at their own risk and are solely responsible for complying with all the building codes which pertain to their community. hereby disclaims all liability for any damages whether consequential, incidental, special or otherwise, which may result from following this Helpful Hints Guide. has many prints available to the builder to better aid them in the construction of the post frame building: Mini-Prints, Code Exempt Prints, and Engineered Prints. See your store for details. Before the building is delivered make sure that your site is clear. Prepare the site so it is level 6' beyond the building on all sides. Remember to make sure there is enough room for the delivery truck to move around on your site. The bigger the building, the bigger the truck delivering the building will be. Warning: If metal is not being used immediately, store panels and trim in a dry area out of the sun. See handling instructions on page 36 for more information. Tip: If you plan to have a concrete floor now or at a later date please make sure the material list has been adjusted properly to accommodate this feature. By putting in a concrete floor into your building you may lose the thickness of the floor from your total interior height. Check for proper turning radius and clearance for overhead doors. Items recommended for the construction of your post frame building: • Mason line • Post Frame Building Hammer • Tape Measure • Hand Saw • Framing Square • Level • Chalk Line • Nail Apron • Metal Snips • Pencil • Chain Saw • Circular Saw • Drill• Mini-Print 4 All of the above items can be purchased at your local store. Traditional Post Frame Construction String Line Building Dimensions • Locate and stake corners of the building. Grade should be level and free of obstructions. • Drive three stakes into the ground spaced about 6' apart and approximately 4' behind each building corner stake. • Nail batter boards to the outside of the stakes, approximately 12" above the grade. • Starting at corner #1, stretch a mason line directly over the top of the corner stakes for one side of the building. Finish stretching the mason line between the remaining corners to form the outline of the building. Check for proper dimensions, making adjustments as needed. 6' Approx. 4' 6' e Corner #2 n Lin Maso Approx. 4' W id Corner #1 Batter Boards th Corner #3 th Leng Corner #4 Call your local digger’s hotline to check for underground lines before digging. Square the Building • Measure 6' from any corner along the sideline and make a mark. Measure 8' from the same corner along the end line and make a mark. The diagonal distance between the marks should be exactly 10'. If not, adjust a line at the corner to fit. Repeat this process at the next three corners. • To square mason lines, measure diagonally. To be squared, their measurements need to be the same. Adjust as necessary. Make sure your sidewall and end wall 8' 6' dimensions are correct. Diagonal A = Diagonal B ia Diagonal B go na lA 10' D 5 Set and Plumb Corner Posts /Laminated Dig holes at least 4 feet deep, any less may compromise Columns your strength for wind loads and frost protection. Dig the corner holes first. Tamp the bottom of the hole to avoid settling. Place a concrete pad in the bottom of each hole. Secure treated anchor blocks 1⁄8" from the bottom of each post with 10d, 3" nails on each side of the post. Repeat for all posts. These anchor blocks increase the building’s wind uplift rating. Note: If treated anchor blocks are wider than the post, use the pattern in the diagram. Grade For buildings with bookshelf girts refer to page 24. Fit the sides of the post into the corner of mason line layout, allowing room (1½") for girts between the mason line and the post for both the sidewall and end wall. The outside of the girts is the final dimension measurements for the building. Keep checking to make sure the post is plumb and in line with the mason line. Nail a temporary 2" × 4" brace on the inside of the corner post near the top extending to stakes in the ground. Bracing should be applied in both the sidewall and end wall directions. - Fill the hole with dirt and tamp solid. - Repeat this with all corner posts. Treated Anchor Blocks Thickness of Footing Width Follow your print for the correct post length. Stand the corner post vertically in the hole so the longer width sets perpendicular to the sidewall and the shorter width runs parallel to the sidewall. I.E. for 4×6 post, the 4" dimension runs parallel and the 6" dimension runs perpendicular to the sidewall. P O S T Embedment Depth - 4' Minimum Concrete Footing Post Anchor Blocks Check for plumb with level on two sides. Corner Post 1½" Endwall Corner 1½" Post 1½" Laminated Columns; A Stronger Choice Midwest Manufacturing has incorporated Laminated Columns for certain building specifications. Rivet clinched Laminated Columns are an option to solid treated posts. Rivet clinched Laminated Columns provide advantages over solid posts: More versatile - up to 60' or more in length; Engineered straight with hydraulic pressure, then rivet clinched for superior holding power; Reinforced joints with 20 gauge steel plates; Multiple lumber grades - custom built with treated 6 lumber at the base; Safer with pre-built notch - no chain saw on ladder needed. Locate Sidewall Posts /Laminated Columns Temporarily tack a 2" × 4" block on the end wall side of the corner post, approximately 1' up from grade. Measure to your particular spacing along mason line, stick a nail in the ground directly under the mason line. Continue down the sidewall in the same fashion. At each nail location, dig a hole on the inside of the string for the sidewall posts. Jamb Posts (Door Posts) Note: For overhead doors the door width is measured from inside of post to inside of post. For sliding doors the door width is measured from center of post to center of post. See pages 16-23. Sidewall Post Corner Post 2×4 Block on Endwall Level ng paci tS Pos Measure to your particular spacing from the temporary 2"×4" block on the corner post to the closest edge of the first sidewall post. Set in pads and posts. Allow room for girts between the mason line and post. Make sure the post remains plumb. Nail Fill hole with dirt and tamp solid. Measure to your particular spacing from far edge of the second post to the closest edge of the next post. Set in pad and post. Allow 1½" between the mason line and post. Make sure the post remains plumb. Fill hole with dirt and tamp solid. Continue down the rest of the sidewall. Sidewall Post Sidewall Post Level Repeat procedure starting from the same endwall, on the opposite side. g acin t Sp Pos Nail Endwall Posts Using print specifications, extend endwall posts up to the top of the roofline. In order for stability and safety in the construction process, posts on end walls should be set an equal distance apart and are not to exceed 10' on center. (Excluding door openings.) Endwall Post 10' Max Endwall Post C L 10' Max Endwall Post C L 10' Max C L 10' Max 7 Wainscot Trusses Laminated Columns Purlins Gradeboard Girts 8 Anchor Blocks Install Grade Board Composite Grade Board: 1. Locate the corner post with the highest grade. 2. Place nail at post, setting building grade. 3. Establish a level line around the perimeter. End gap distance for every 16' of plank Current Maximum expected temperature Temp 70 80 90 100 110 120 40 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 3/16" 7/32" 1/4" 50 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 3/16" 7/32" 60 1/32" 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 3/16" 70 --- 1/32" 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 80 --- --- 1/32" 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 90 ---------1/32" 1/16" 3/32" 4. Place a nail in each post at the level line. 5. Install grade board to posts with 30d - 4½" ring shank nails on top of level line nail. Nails should be placed in the three built-in grooves extruded in composite grade board. Grooves 6. Keep boards flush with end of post to allow for corner cap to be applied. (Boards can also be mitered and butted together at ends.) 7. Remove grade nails once grade board is attached. For proper spacing between boards see chart. Composite Grade Board Accessories: Outside Corner Inside Corner Endcap Nail at base of post where grade is highest Connector Expansion Spacer Sidewall Post Sidewall Post Nail at line level mark Treated Grade Board: e n Lin Maso Line Level 1. Locate the corner post with the highest grade. 2. Place nail at post, setting building grade. 3. Establish a level line around the perimeter. Sidewall Post 4. Place a nail in each post at the level line. 5. Install grade board to posts with 30d (4½" ring shank) nails on top of level line nails. 6. Remove grade nails once grade board is attached. Note: Treated grade board may require plastic flashing. e Grad d Boar Grade Nail Plastic Flashing 9 Place Wall Girts Cut three 2x4 spacer blocks at correct size using girt chart below: 2×6 Girts Wall # Rows Spacer On Center Height of Girts Block Size Spacing 7' 2 25.5" 31.0" 8' 2 29.5" 35.0" 9' 3 23.5" 29.0" 10' 3 26.5" 32.0" 11' 3 29.5" 35.0" 12' 4 25.0" 30.5" 13' 4 27.5" 33.0" 14' 4 30.0" 35.5" 15' 5 26.0" 31.5" 16' 5 28.0" 33.5" 17' 5 30.0" 35.5" 18' 6 26.5" 32.0" 19' 7 28.5" 34.0" 20' 7 30.0" 35.5” Sidewall Girt 30d - 4½" Ring Shank Nails Note: Make any adjustments as necessary to girts to accommodate any special options such as eavelite and wainscot panels. See page 41 for details. Tip: Keep posts plumb while installing girts. Remove the spacer block above the grade board and place spacer blocks on top of the first row of girts, and nail second row of girts into place on both sidewalls and end walls. Repeat. Special Note: If you have a sidewall overhang: The overhang soffit nailer is not installed at the same time as the girts and should be installed when the overhangs are being framed. See page 28. Allow room for jamb material when placing girts on a jamb post. See door framing details page 16-17. Before installing the last girt, set all headers. 10 Spacer Blocks Spacer Blocks Bay d boar e Grad Rest the spacer blocks on top of the grade board, temporarily tack the blocks into place. Rest a girt (two bays at once) on top of the spacer blocks and nail girts into place using 30d - 4½" ring shank nails. rd eboa Grad Ring Shank Nails Galvanized for Long Life 10d 3" Galvanized 30d 4½" Galvanized 60d 6" Oil Quenched 75/lb. 29/lb. 21/lb. Ring shanks for holding power. Hardened shank for easy application. Headers on Sidewalls for Openings or Overhead Doors Header Depth Headers are to be installed under the truss for direct bearing. Building Height Measure from the bottom of the grade board up each post to the height of your wall, put a mark. Measure from the previous mark down the post, the depth of the header and place another mark. This will be your header bearing location. See pages 16-17 for Sliding door header information. Notch jamb posts for headers greater than 2-ply, or as needed. Install stub columns between plys at each truss to ply location. Tip: Dimensional lumber is 1½" thick. LVL headers are 1¾" thick. Adjust header notches as needed. Stub Column Truss Header 2 Ply Header 3 Ply Header 4 Ply Header 11 Truss Location Measuring from the bottom of the grade board up each post, the height of your wall, put a mark. This is where your truss bearing will be located. For example: If your wall height is 10' tall, the measurement from the bottom of your grade board to the bottom of the truss would be 10' (120"). Warning: If you are planning to have a concrete floor now or in the future make sure the material list has been adjusted properly for this particular feature. To maintain the interior clearance from the top of the finished floor to the bottom chord of the truss, the thickness of the slab will have to be added on to the height of the building. Mark for Truss Bearing Sidewall Height Bottom of Gradeboard Solid Posts Warning: Do not notch corner posts or end wall posts. Double check your measurements from bottom of grade board to the bottom of truss notch. It should be the same as the sidewall height. 1½" Use a square to mark post for notching. Notch Posts 1½" for single ply truss so entire truss can rest on notch. Laminated Columns The truss will sit in the saddle of the laminated column. The bearing block will need to be cut to the proper length and secured to column to bring the truss bearing height equal to the building’s wall height. Truss Saddle Truss to Post connection Bearing Block - Field cut to proper length 12 Bearing Block Secured to column with 30d- 4½" ring shank nails. Raising Trusses Before raising trusses, mark the top edge of the truss for the proper purlin spacing, starting at the peak of the truss and move towards the eave. Place the mark for the bottom edge of the peak purlin. See diagram. Note: Purlins will not exceed 24" O.C. for agricultural buildings. For engineered buildings please refer to Engineered Prints. Raising the End Frames At one end of the building, Eave raise an end frame on the outside of the end wall posts. The bottom edge of the truss must align with the building height you marked on the post. The heel of the end frame should extend 1½" past the outside edge of the post. Nail the end frame to the corner post first, checking to be sure the corner post and endwall posts are plumb. Finish nailing the end frame to the endwall posts at each frame to post location. 24" 24" 24" 24" 1½" Endframe Building Height Use 30d - 4½" ring shank nails to attach end frame to posts. Endframe Note: Endwall posts shall be cut off just above top chord. Endwall Laminated columns are 3' nail free at the top for ease of cutting and shall be nailed together at jobsite after cut has been made. Raising the main trusses Truss will rest directly on top of the notch in the post. Fasten starter purlins at approximately 8' apart using 60d - 6" ring shank nails to hold them in place. Starter purlins can be premarked for proper spacing. Use 30d - 4½" ring shank nails to attach trusses to posts. Peak Dimension 6" with 13" Ridgecap 8" with 20" Ridgecap 10" with RidgeLite Starter Purlin Hang Truss past post 1½". Truss Bearing Mark 13 Roof Purlins Peak Purlins Butted Together Using 60d - 6” ring shank nails, attach purlins to trusses. For buildings with side wall overhangs first consult the side wall overhang details on page 28. Nail all other purlins into place where you put the marks on the top edges of the trusses. Peak purlins and edge purlins should be butted together, all the other roof purlins should be overlapped and nailed together at the trusses a minimum of 6". 6" 6" Inside Purlins are Overlapped-Nail together Edge Purlin For buildings with a sidewall overhang, do not install the edge purlin, and refer to sidewall overhang details on page 28. Edge purlins can be nailed to the sidewall posts and must be in line with roof purlins. Applying Braces Knee Braces After all trusses are raised and purlins are in place, use a mason line to see if both sidewalls are straight and plumb. After the wall is straight, secure 2×6 knee braces to posts using 30d - 4½" ring shank nails and the knee brace to truss using 10d - 3" ring shank nails. Knee Building Brace Brace Height Depth Length 8'1' 6"6' 9'1' 6"6' 10' 2' 0" 6' 11' 2' 0" 6' 12' 3' 0" 8' 13' 3' 0" 8' 14'4' 0"10' 15'4' 0"10' 16'4' 0"10' 17'4' 0"10' 18'4' 0"10' 19'4' 0"10' 20'4' 0"10' 14 Note: Buildings with laminated columns, using a center notch, require 2 ply 2x6 knee braces. Braces Secured to Top Chord Braces Secured to Bottom Chord 2×6 Knee Brace Braces Secured to Column 3 Ply Laminated Column Knee Brace Depth Braces Secured to Post Applying Braces Continued Corner Post Corner Braces The 2×6 corner braces are applied from the bottom of the first post to the top of the corner post. 2×6 Corner Braces Sidewall Post Do this to all corners. Use 10d - 3" ring shank nails to secure brace at each girt to brace location. Wind Braces Endwall Post These 2×4 braces are installed under the roof purlins, angled from the first pole on the sidewall to the end trusses at a point approximately 2' from the peak. After nailing both ends of the wind brace, nail to each purlin using 60d - 6" ring shank nails. Buildings wider than 40' will require 2 or more bays of wind bracing. End Frame 2×4 Wind Brace Sidewall Post Lateral Braces These 2×4 braces are installed with 60d 6" ring shank nails to the tops of the bottom chords, approximately 10' on center across the bottom chords and designated webs of the trusses. Lateral braces are to be placed at stamped locations on the truss. See the truss specification sheets for more information. 2×4 Lateral Brace Truss Bottom Chord 15 Endwall and Sidewall Sliding Door Framing 2×8 Bottom Chord of End Frame Chalkline 5½" up Chalkline 5½" up 2×12 Door Track Support Header Jamb Posts with 2×4 door jambs cut to fit and secured between girts Jamb Posts with 2×4 door jambs cut to fit and secured between girts Door opening Door opening Endwall For Endwall: Use the 2×8 bottom chord of the end frame as the header for the door Sidewall For Sidewall: A 1 ply 2×12 door track support board is placed to the side in which the door opens. On sidewall and/or endwall measure 5½" up from the bottom of the header at each jamb post. Truss Snap a chalk line from mark to mark across the header and/or 2×12. Track Board Support 2×6 track board is placed so the top edge is flush with the chalk line, starting from the center of post jamb to center of the other post jamb, secured with 10d 3" nails. Chalkline Jamb Post 2×4 track board is placed so the top of a 2×4 is flush with the line extending from the center of the post jamb to end of the door in its open position secured with 10d 3" nails. Note: For sliding doors on end walls the 2×4 track board shall extend from end to end. Note: Track board shall stop 45⁄16" from the corner to allow for corner trim. 5½" Corner Post Track Board Support Chalkline 2×4 door jambs are cut to fit between girt rows and secured flush to the inside face of the post at the door opening secured with 10d 3" nails. Track Board End Truss 5½" 45⁄16" 2×4 treated door runner, for Kwik Frame doors only, is placed so the bottom of the door runner is flush with the bottom of the grade board to the side which the door is to open. Door track is screwed 2×8 Bottom Chord or to the top of the 2×4/2×6 track boards. 2×12 Track Board Suppport The top of the door runner is flush with the steel rise. The door track should start at 2×4 Track Board 2×6 Track the jamb post and run a distance equal to Board ¾ of the door opening on each side of the jamb post. Jamb Door 16 Post Opening Sliding Door Framing Track board support 2×4 Stop Block ¼ Door Width 2× 4T rac Do kB or Door Track Cover ¾ Door Width Tra c k Track Board Support oa rd Headers ¼ Door Width To O 2×4/2×6 Track Board Chalkline pe nD ¾ Door Width 2× 6T rac 2×4 Stop Block oo r Track Do or kB oa rd 5½" Sh ow nC Track cover support bracket ¼ Door Width los ed 2×4 Door Jamb 2×4 stop blocks are placed at the ends of the door track to help keep the door from sliding off the track. Track Cover Support Brackets are nailed to the top of the track board to secure the track cover where there is no sliding door track. Track Cover is placed on top of the door track and track brackets and nailed on the vertical lip above the door track. Sliding Door Track Optional Special Order Track board trims are available to cover any exposed wood on a sliding door. See page 19. Post Track Track Board Cover Support Support Bracket 2×4 Stop Post Block Split Slider on Side Wall Same steps as listed above except place a 2×12 on each side of the door opening. Truss Door Jamb Trim Door Jamb 3-1/2" 1-1/2" 1-1/2" L-6 Fascia 1-1/2" 17 Sliding Door Accessories STEEL DOOR CENTER GUIDE • Installed back to back. Tabloc • Used on all steel frame doors. • Stops door in closed position. • 2 required per door, 2 per sku Steel SINGLE DOOR STOP • Used on a steel frame sliding door. • Meets bottom door lateral in open and closed positions holding door firmly against the building. SLIDING DOOR JAMB STOP • Stops and holds all steel frame sliding doors in both open and closed positions. Kwik Frame Wood WOOD DOOR CENTER GUIDE • Floor mounted, adjustable for single and double sliding doors. • Heavy duty shock resistant design. STAY ROLLER • Slots in frame provide adjustment for holding sliding doors. • Extra-Heavy wheel. Universal CENTER LATCH • Holds split sliding doors tightly secure. HEAVY DUTY DOOR HANDLE • Galvanized for long life. • 6" Heavy duty handle. SLIDING DOOR LATCH • Cam action latch holds door firmly against the jamb. • Includes 7" hook, and latch. ADJUSTABLE DOOR STOP • Adjustable for door thickness 2½" to 3¹/8". • Used on single or split sliding doors. DOOR TRACK 18 • 16 Gauge galvanized steel with mounting/flashing brackets for mounting on 2×6 track board. 2¼" 1¾" • Used for doors weighing up to 400 lbs. 8'-16' in 2' increments; Stock/SO Optional Sliding Door Trim single trackboard Over Door trackboard 3-7/8" 2-1/2" 1-1/4" 1" 2" 3-1/8" TRACK COVER SUPPORT BRACKET DOUBLE trackboard 3" 3" sLIDing DOOR track COVER 2" double track bracket 5¾" 1" ¾" 2-3/8" ⁄16" 7 Holes 3-1/2" 135˚ 2½" 2-1/2" Track 41⁄8" Track Support Track Board Support 5/8" Track Board double track cover 2" 1-1/2" 2¾" 115 ⁄16" 145º 7-3/4" 145º 3/4" door laterals 2¼" Minimum 3¼" Maximum 2-1/2" 135º 2-1/4" Track Cover Support 19 Sliding Door Components Door Laterals Spacing of Height Required Laterals 7' 4 27" 8' 4 32" 9' 4 36" 10' 5 30" 11' 5 32" 12' 5 36" 13' 6 30" 14' 6 34" 15' 6 36" 16' 7 32" 17' 7 34" 18' 8 30'' 19' 97 28" 20' 98 30" 1 We recommend Tab-Loc stiffeners3 for 16' wide or tall 2 8 rigidity. 3 for added • Fast, simple, strong8 1 assembly 2 • Tab-Loc design • Galvanized for long life Door Track 2×6 Track Cover Trolley Hanger steel door lateral steel door VERTICAl 7 1 5 8 8 2 1 2 38 3 4 1378 1 End view of door at bottom. Guide Rail 8 1 1 2 2 Steel Door Laterals 2 Steel Door Verticals guide Rail Door Widths Brackets 3' up to 6' 2 6' up to 16' 3 16' up to 20'4. 4 2×6 Treated or Larger guide Rail bracket Steel door verticals are part of the Tab-Loc sliding door system. Used with door laterals to make sliding doors. Galvanized for long life, tab system makes assembly a snap. STAP TROLLEY HANGERS • Can be used on wood frame sliding doors. • Threaded adjustment vertically. • Slotted adjustment laterally. • Designed for horizontal mounting to the door. 5 8 1 34 Steel Door Lateral Guide Rail Bracket 20 2×8 or Larger STEEL BEARING TROLLEY HANGERS • Steel roller bearing for long life. • Can be used on wood or steel frame sliding doors. • Threaded adjustment both vertically & laterally. 1 Tab-Loc Sliding Door Assembly 1. Important! Check opening size prior to assembling. If vertical members need to be shortened, it must be done at this time. Verticals may be shortened to almost any desired length. 2. Select level assembly area with clearance to turn door and lay out members. 3. Align the vertical tabs with the lateral member cutouts keeping the open channel of door laterals towards bottom of door. 4. With laterals and verticals in place, bend tabs loosely. 5. After assembling loosely, bend tabs to tight position, working from center lateral toward top and bottom of door. 6. Square door frame. 7. Pry tab in final lock position with a screwdriver. This aligns all members and holds frame square. 8. Turn door frame over and repeat Step 4 Step 5 Step 7 steps 4 - 7. 9. After completely assembling door frame, fasten panels to frame. Installation of Trolley Hangers Bottom Chord of End Frame (For endwall applications) 2×12 Header (For sidewall applications) • Trolley hangers to be located at the top of the door. • For placement of the trolleys divide the door width by 4 and this will equal the trolley inset from each side of the door. • Drill a 9⁄16" hole in the top of the top steel door lateral at the trolley inset if it falls where there is no predrilled hole. • Insert trolley drop bolt through 9⁄16" hole in top lateral. • Adjust flange nut to provide 1" between top door lateral and bottom of the door track. • Hang door - make vertical adjustments with flange nut and tighten lock nut. • To adjust door in and out, turn the lateral adjustment bolt with a wrench to obtain desired clearance. DoorTrack 2×6 Track Board Trolley Hanger Top Steel Lateral Flange Nut Lock Nut Installation of Guide Rail Brackets Attach guide rail brackets to guide rail loosely with 3⁄8" × ¾" bolts. One bracket and one bolt is furnished for each hole in guide rail. Align end of guide rail with inside of door opening. Important! To prevent the wind from lifting doors away from the building, fasten guide rail brackets to the gradeboard with 5⁄16" carriage bolts or 3⁄8" lags. Do not use Nails. Hold the bottom of guide rail approximately 1¼" below the bottom of the door. Make adjustments so doors operate properly. Tighten all fasteners to secure brackets and guide rail in its final position. Tips: Continuous guide rail engages bottom lateral of door and guides the door along building keeping it secure and away from the siding. Slotted holes in guide rail bracket allow lateral and vertical adjustments. To adjust door in and out, turn the lateral adjustment bolt with wrench to obtain desired clearance. Steel Door Vertical End view of door at bottom Steel Door Lateral Guide Rail Guide Rail Bracket Grade Board Grade 21 Kwik Frame Sliding Door Assembly KWIK FRAME DOUBLE COUPLE 1½" 1½" 2×4 or 2×6 Lateral 2×4 or 2×6 Lateral 1¾" • Serves as the side frames for sliding doors. • Eliminates gap between split sliding doors. • Designed as a receiver for 2 × material. • Built in Astragal to seal a double/split door system. • Built in J-Trim for self-flashing. • Designed as a receiver for 2 × material. • Built in J-Trim for self-flashing. Use a standard 2" × 6" for the top girt and a treated Trolley Inset Trolley Inset 2" × 6" for the bottom girt. Cut those 6" longer than 2×6 Top Girt the door opening. Remaining door girts should be cut ½" shorter than top and bottom girts. 2×6 Door Girt Lay Kwik frame verticals on a flat surface and nail top and bottom girts horizontally to frames. The bottom girt should extend 2" below the end of the Kwik frame. Girts should be spaced the same as the other sidewall girts, measuring from the top down. 2×6 Door Girt Installation of trolley hangers. 2×6 Door Girt • For placement of the trolleys divide the door width by 4 and add 3". This will equal 2×6 Treated Girt Bottom the trolley inset from each side of the door. 9 • Drill a ⁄16" hole in the top of the 2" × 6" top girt for the trolley inset. • Insert trolley drop bolt through 9⁄16" hole in top door girt. Bottom Chord of End Frame (For endwall applications) 2×12 Header (For sidewall applications) Door Track 2×6 Track Board Trolley Hanger Lateral Adjustment Bolt 2×6 Top Girt Flange Nut Lock Nut 22 • Adjust flange nut to provide 1" space between top girt on the door and bottom of door track. • Hanging the door - make vertical adjustments with flange nut and tighten lock nut. • To adjust door in and out, turn the lateral adjustment bolt with a wrench to obtain desired clearance. Hang the door in the track and square with the door opening. Lift door up 1" so weight is taken off the hangers. Nail temporarily on bottom corners making sure the door is plumb. Apply door steel keeping each sheet flush with the top girt. After all steel is applied, remove temporary nails from bottom corners. Temporary 1" Nail Rise 2" Overhead Door Framing Overhead Door on a Sidewall Overhead door 2×6 frame outs are to be placed so the bottom of the frame outs to the top of the finished floor is the height required for the door. Door jambs - Outside jamb is typically a 2×4. Inside jamb is typically a 2×4 or 2×6 depending on the door size. See trim detail for more information. Pro-Rib Steel Panel Roof Purlin Roof Purlin Truss Edge Purlin Eave Trim Treated Post Pro-Rib Steel Panel 2 Ply Door Header Door Path Torsion Spring 2 Ply Door Frame-Out 12" Minimum SIDEWALL J-Trim L-8 Trim l-8 fascia l-8 Door 8-1/4" Weather Seal Roller Overhead Door Pin and Mounting Bracket HEM TRIM Jamb Post 1" 1/2" 1/4" 1-1/2" Door Track Tip: For best results the L-8 is installed before the wall steel. The J-Trim and Hem Trim are installed after the steel is up. Do not fasten the steel panels around the opening until the J-Trim and Hem Trim are in place. If the door is located on the sidewall and the height of the door is 1’ less than the sidewall height, then the header will be used as the nailing surface of the trim instead of the 2×6 headers. 2-1/2" Door Path Treated Post End Frame Door Mounting Torsion Spring Board Pro-Rib Steel Panel 2 Ply Door Frame-Out 12" Minimum Warning: For buildings with concrete floors the height of the opening needs to be adjusted to accommodate the thickness of the concrete floor and the turning radius of an overhead door. Note: 2×6 door mounting board to be adjusted as necessary for the type of overhead door selected. J-Trim Roller Pin and Mounting Bracket L-8 Trim Weather Seal ENDWALL Overhead Door Door Track 23 Bookshelf Post Frame Construction Follow the same steps for Traditional Post Frame Construction from Page 6 to Page 7; Except, the sidewall posts DO NOT require 1½" between the post and the mason line when plumbing the posts. Install Grade Board Check for plumb with level on two sides. Endwall Corner 1½" Post Corner Post 1½" 1. Locate the corner post with the highest grade. 2. Place a nail in the post at the grade at the corner post on the sidewall and on the outside of the end wall to set the grade of the building. 3. Use a line level or transit to establish a level line where the nails are located. Sidewall Bookshelf Gradeboard to be Installed between posts 4. Install grade board keeping the bottom of the gradeboard on top of the nails securing with 30d - 4½" ring shank nails at each post location. Toe-nail when on sidewall. rd eboa Grad 5. Once all the grade boards are in place, remove grade nails. Note: Treated gradeboard may require plastic flashing. For Bookshelf Girt styled building, sidewall grade boards are placed between the columns and end wall grade boards are placed on the outside of the columns. Sidewall Post Pro-Rib Steel Panel Treated Grade Board 24 2x6 Treated Bookshelf Girt Treated Interior Grade Board BOOKSHELF GIRT AND GRADE BOARD ON SIDEWALL APPLICATION Girt Pro-Rib Steel Panel Treated Grade Board Sidewall Post 2x6 Treated Bookshelf Girt Treated Interior Grade Board BOOKSHELF GIRT AND GRADE BOARD ON END WALL APPLICATION Bookshelf Girts Note: Make any adjustments as necessary to girts to accommodate special options such as eavelite and wainscot panels. See page 41 for details. Cut 2 spacer blocks 22½" in length. The Girt chart shows how many rows of girts are needed depending on your wall height. 2×6Girts Wall # Rows Height of Girts 7' 3 8' 3 9' 4 Rest the spacer blocks on the 10' 4 grade board and temporarily tack 11' 5 into place between the posts. 12' 5 Rest a girt on top of the spacer 13' 6 block and toenail girts into place 14' 6 using 30d - 4½" ring shank nails. 15' 7 16' 7 Tip: Keep posts plumb while 17' 8 installing girts. 18' 8 19' 9 20' 9 2nd Row of Sidewall Girts 22½" Space 22½" Space Remove the spacer block above the grade board and place spacer blocks on top of the first row of girts, and nail second row of girts into place on both sidewalls and end walls. Repeat. Special Note: If you have a sidewall overhang: The overhang soffit nailer is not installed at the same time as the girts and should be installed when the overhangs are being framed. See page 28. Allow room for jamb material when placing girts on a jamb post. See door framing details pages 16-17. Before installing the last girt set all headers. d boar e Grad rd G boa rade 1st Row of Sidewall Girts ow of 2nd R Girts all Sidew 1st Row of Sidewall Girts Header Bookshelf buildings’ sidewall headers get notched into columns, and are flush with the inside and outside face. 25 Bookshelf Truss Placement Truss Location Field cut exterior plies of laminated column 3" above top of truss. This will allow nailing area for edge purlin or overhang jack. Measuring from the bottom of the grade board up each post, the height of your wall, put a mark. This is where your truss bearing will be located. For example: If your wall height is 10' tall, the measurement from the bottom of your grade board to the bottom of the truss would be 10' (120"). Warning: If you are planning to have a concrete floor now or in the future make sure the material list has been adjusted properly for this particular feature. To maintain the interior clearance from the top of the finished floor to the bottom chord of the truss, the thickness of the slab will have to be added on to the height of the building. Truss Truss placed into column Bearing Block - Field cut to proper length Bearing Block secured to column with 30d-4½" ring shank nails Post Notch End Truss Warning: Do not notch corner posts or endwall posts. Solid Posts - Double check your measurements from bottom of grade board to the bottom of truss notch. It should be the same as the sidewall height. Use a square to mark post for notching. Trusses will sit in notch and may not extend beyond post. Laminated Columns The truss will sit in the saddle of the laminated column. The bearing block will need to be cut to the proper length and secured to column to bring the truss bearing height equal to the buildings wall height. 26 Mark truss bearing with square Hang truss flush with post Corner Post Building Height Building height measured d r eboa from bottom of gradeboard Grad to bottom of truss Bookshelf Trusses, Purlins, and Braces Raising Trusses Before raising trusses, mark the top edge of the truss for the proper purlin spacing, starting at the peak of the truss and move towards the eave. Place the mark for the bottom edge of the peak purlin. See diagram. Note: Purlins will not exceed 24" O.C. for agricultural buildings. For engineered buildings please refer to Engineered Prints. Raising the End Frames 24" 24" At one end of the building, 24" Eave 24" raise an end frame on the outside of the end wall posts. The bottom edge of the truss must align with the building height you marked on the post. The heel of the end frame should be flush with the outside edge of the post. Nail the end frame to the corner post first, checking to be sure the corner post and endwall posts are plumb. Finish nailing the end frame to the endwall posts at each frame to post location. Peak Dimension 6" with 13" Ridgecap 8" with 20" Ridgecap 10" with RidgeLite Use 30d - 4½" ring shank nails to attach end frame to posts. Edge Purlin Placement Corner Brace INSTALL OVERHANG JACKS FIRST. SEE Placement PAGE 28. Notch posts if necessary, but do not notch truss. Secure edge purlins on top of trusses and flush with outside of posts. End Truss Edge Purlin Corner braces are notched into the girts on bookshelf buildings. End Frame Truss Corner 2×6 Corner brace Post secured at each end and each brace to girt Sidewall Post Edge purlins to be secured on top of truss and flush with outside of post. Corner Post Note: Number of wall girts on this detail may not apply to your building. Corner brace shall extend from grade board at first sidewall post to top corner post at truss. 27 Sidewall Overhang Note: Don’t install edge purlins at this time. First install overhang jacks on your end frames. The distance of the overhang is measured from the outside edge of the girt less 1½" to the end of the overhang jack. With your jacks on your end frames, run a mason line from end overhang jack to end overhang jack along the sidewall. Then install overhang jacks on trusses, making sure the ends of overhang jacks are flush with mason line. When all of your jacks are in place install your 2×4 soffit nailer and fascia board. Fascia Inside Board Closure Strip Roof Purlin Roof Steel Overhang Jack Truss Soffit Panel Fascia Trim Overhang length less 1½" Truss Sidewall Steel Sidewall Post Soffit Small J-Trim with Frieze Sidewall Post 2x4 Soffit Nailer Sidewall Steel Bookshelf Sidewall Overhang 1" 1/4" 7/16" Small Truss J-Trim with Frieze Soffit 1" 2-13/16" 3/4" Soffit Small J-Trim with Frieze 2x4 Soffit Nailer Sidewall Steel Endwall Overhang Note: Do not notch truss to install soffit nailer. Soffit nailer to be secured between trusses. For endwall overhang, extend the purlins past end frame, 1½" less than the desired overhang. Attach fascia board. Install small J-trim with frieze as shown. Install boxed end fascia after installing roof steel. Install the soffit. boxed end fascia Roof Steel 7/8" 1-3/4" Roof Purlin 1-1/2" 1-1/2"1-1/2" 4-1/2" 5-1/2" 3-1/2" 7/8" 28 Overhang length less 1½" Truss End Frame Corner Post Soffit Small J-Trim with Frieze Endwall Steel 2×4 Fascia Board Boxed End Fascia Trims CORNER & GABLE TRIM PREMIUM GABLE TRIM Roof Steel Eave Trim Corner Sidewall Steel Trim 1 2 1 Roof Steel 10 Gable Trim 150° 1 2 1 3 4 Eave Trim 2-1/4" Roof Steel 2" Gable Trim 5-1/8" Premium Gable Trim EAVE TRIM Eave Trim 121 4 3 4 Corner Trim Sidewall Steel 5-1/8" Corner Trim l-4 fascia 7/16" 4-1/4" 1/4" 1" 3/4" Sidewall Steel 13/16" frieze Starter 1" 5/8" 1/4" 1-1/2" SOFFIT PANELS FASCIA CAP 5/8" 4" solid • Covers 2x4 Fascia board on Eave • Supports Soffit Precut Sizes 1/2" 1" Gives quick, clean, easy cut vented 1¼" Soffit Nails Fascia Trim All Colors Available Steel Soffit Soffit Nail Panel Frieze Starter soffit shear panel shear 155-8659 155-8630 29 Post Frame Windows Install window unit before steel is applied. For best results, the side of the window should be located between the ribs of the steel. Frame out openings as shown. For traditional window framing, cut out girts between vertical 2×4’s last. Insert the window into the frame-out and fasten it in place from the outside. TOP VIEW Traditional Window Framing Treated Post FRONT VIEW Vertical Nailer Girt Horizontal Nailers Vertical Nailer Girt Rough Opening Rough Opening Girt 2×4 Spacer Blocks Girt TOP VIEW FRONT VIEW Bookshelf Window Framing Treated Posts 2×6 Horizontal Jamb Rough Opening Rough Opening 2×6 Bookshelf Girt 2×6 Bookshelf Girt 2×6 Bookshelf Girts 2×6 Uprights 2×6 Treated Bookshelf Girt Gradeboard 2×6 Uprights NOTE: Windows with built in J Channel are flashed in white or brown. Windows with no J flashing allow you to order color matched J-Trim to flash around window. • Built in “J” Channel on screen units. • Frame and Sash are completely weather stripped with woven pile. • A durable baked enamel finish is standard, and is available in white or brown. • Shipped ready to install. • Center mullion for a sturdier window. • Nylon track for an easy sliding sash. 30 Built in “J” channel Service Doors Door units should be installed before the steel is applied. For best results, the side of the door should be located between the ribs of the steel. 1.Nail (2) 2×4 vertical nailer onto the inside of the girts (R.O. width +3"). 2.Nail a 2×4 horizontal nailer onto the outside of the vertical nailer (R.O. height+1½"). 3.Cut out girts between vertical nailer. 4.Nail a 2×4 horizontal jamb to the bottom of the horizontal nailer. 5.Nail 2×4 vertical jambs to insides of the vertical nailer. 6.Add 2×4 spacer blocks, cut to fit, between girts. Insert the door into the frameout and fasten it in place from the outside. TOP VIEW FRONT VIEW Traditional Door Framing Treated Post Vertical Nailer Horizontal Nailer Vertical Nailer Rough Opening Girt Rough Opening Girt 2×4 Spacer Blocks 2×4 Vertical Jamb * Notch as necessary TOP VIEW FRONT VIEW Bookshelf Door Framing Treated Posts 2×6 Horizontal Jamb Rough Opening 2×6 Bookshelf Girt Rough Opening 2×6 Bookshelf Girt 2×6 Bookshelf Girts Treated Bookshelf Girt 2×6 Vertical Jambs Gradeboard 2×6 Vertical Jamb Double Angle Trim * Notch as necessary DRIP CAP 2" 1/2" Window Unit 2-1/2" 1/4" Window Unit 1-1/2" 1-1/4" 31 Service Doors - Continued Prehung in jamb Low maintenance Baked on enamel finish R-10 insulation factor Self flash J-trim side panel Ease of installation Universal swing Inswing or outswing Attractive textured door panel Bored for lockset - lockset not included Custom door sizes available special order. Post Frame Service Door 36"×80" RO 381⁄16"×8015 ⁄16" J-Trim 1" Soffit Panel Top Girt 1" 1-3/4" Sidewall Steel Baked on enamel finish R-16 insulation factor Heavy duty 16 gauge galvanized steel frame jambs 24 gauge smooth steel panels Code approved ½" low profile threshold Thermopane nine-lite window Bored for lockset - lockset not included Custom door sizes available special order White or brown blank White or brown with 22"×36" lite Commercial Grade Service Door 36"×80" RO 405 ⁄16"×811⁄8" HEM Trim Jamb Post 1" 1/2" 2-1/2" 32 White blank White 9 lite with crossbuck 2x4 Vertical Jamb Service Doors - Continued NOTE: If 2x4 framing is not followed or the door is not installed for inswing application, additional trim may be required. www.midwestmanufacturing.com Hinge Reversing Procedure for Prehung 4-Way Doors with Factory Installed Window 1. 1. Place the door on saw horses with the hinge knuckles up. 2. 2. After removing the retaining clip and frame spacers, open the door. 3. 3. Remove the nine hinge screw from the door panel. 4. 4. Lift and turn the panel end for end. Do not move the frame. 5. 5. Flip the panel over to re-attach the hinges. 6. 6. Install the nine hinge screw which were removed in step 3. 7. 8. Close the door panel back into the frame and replace frame spacers. Install the parting stop at the top of the door frame. Install the sweep at the bottom of the door panel. NOTE: Doors without lites may be rotated and turned to achieve the desired swing without removing the frame. 33 Dutch Doors Dutch Doors are much heavier than typical service doors so 4x6 posts or larger are required. TOP VIEW FRONT VIEW Traditional Dutch Door Framing Treated Post Vertical Posts Horizontal Nailer Vertical Posts Rough Opening Girt Rough Opening Girt 2×4 Spacer Blocks Dutch Door RO 49¼" × 87 3 ⁄8" Step 1 Open the boxes and place the door halves on the floor wih the fronts facing up. Place the hinges over the holes in the door halves. Drill through the wood using the holes in the hinge side as guides. Insert bolts into the holes. Make sure that the hinges are level and then fasten using a washer and nut. Step 2 Place the bottom half of the door into the door jamb. Make sure the door is level and there is a ½" gap from the bottom of the door to the floor. When the door is level, place the hinges on the door jamb. Use the holes on the hinges as a guide for pre-drilling. After pre-drilling the holes insert the screws and fasten. Step 3 Place the top half of the door on top of the lower half. Make sure the door is level and ¼" above the bottom half of the door. When the top half is in place, put the hinges on the door jamb as a guide for predrilling. When the holes are completed insert the screws and fasten. Door Jamb Predrill holes and insert screws Door Jamb Predrill holes and insert screws ¼" Predrill holes and insert screws ½" 34 Dutch Door with Crossbuck156-8282 Optional Dutch Door Jamb Frame 156-8284 Dutch Doors - Continued TOP VIEW FRONT VIEW Bookshelf Dutch Door Framing Horizontal Jamb Treated Posts Rough Opening 2×6 Bookshelf Girt 2×6 Bookshelf Girt Rough Opening 2×6 Bookshelf Girts Vertical Posts Treated Bookshelf Girt Gradeboard Vertical Posts Step 4 Place the astragal between the two halves of the door with the double sided edge to the front. Keep it flush with the front of the bottom half of the door. Hold it in place and open the top half of the door. Pre-drill holes and fasten it in place. Step 5 Place the barn latch on the bottom door as shown. Use the latch holes for a guide when pre-drilling the holes for the latch. Make sure the latch is level when fastening. Use the supplied plastic caps to plug the remaining holes in the door. Step 6 Place the bolt latch on the back of the door. Place the receiving end on the bottom half of the door. Make sure that the latch is level and the crack between the door halves lines up with the separation of the latch. Use the holes of the latch as guides for pre-drilling theView holesof and fasten in place. Back of the Door Door Latch Bolt Latch Backside of the door Top Half Astragal Bottom Half 16 gauge one piece perimeter door with crossbuck. Available in all colors. Backer panels available in all colors. Top Half Astragal Bottom Half Bolt Latch 35 Back side of door Storing, Handling, and Cutting Steel Panels Storing • Specifically check your quantities, colors, and lengths • All materials should be used as soon as possible • Steel bundles should be stored indoors with enough of a slope to allow any moisture from condensation to drain out of the bundle • Bare galvanized panels should be installed immediately and not be stored outside • Condensation or rain water trapped on bare galvanized panels can form a wet storage stain, also known as white rust. Handling • Do not slide steel panels across each other. • To properly lift a panel from the bundle place hands underneath the under lap side of the panel and lift up and away from the bundle. • Lifting steel onto roof or building grab the panel in the flat of the panel and not in the rib. • Bending steel is best done with a hand seamer or a brake press. Scratches • A scratch in the panel may only cause rust if it is deep enough to cut through the paint and zinc coat. • Color-matched touch-up and spray can paint is available if you happen to scratch a panel. • Touch-up paint is color matched to all Pro-Rib® • Perfect for scratches and nicks • Beveled brush great for tiny spots or thin lines. • Quarts and gallons available for color matching other components of your building. • 25 colors: 1 oz 156-7869 Qt 156-7872 Gal 156-7885 Touch-Up Paint Color Matched Spray can Cutting Panels Panel Shears Tin Snips Nibbler Shears Cutting steel is best done with a panel shear, tin snips, nibblers, or panel shears. Cut edge does not require paint touch up. Do not use a circular saw to cut steel panels. 36 Steel Panel Installation: Proper lapping of Steel Underseat Proper Overseat Proper lapping of steel panel is very important in the panel’s ability to prevent leaking. The anti-syphon drain channel must be clear of debris and obstructons for the panel’s ability to minimize the potential of capillary action of water from getting under the steel panel. Undertight Proper Fastener Tightness Proper Overtight Fastener tightness is critical in the longevity of the fastener’s ability to help prevent leaks and structural load carrying capacity. Over-torquing of screws will reduce the screw’s withdrawal capacity, regardless of the construction materials involved. Under-torquing of screws will increase the potential of roof leaks. Fastener location is critical for installers to minimize the potential of oil canning, dimples, and other appearance related issues. Note: Both professional and first time installers have fewer problems with oil canning, dimples, and other appearance related fastener seating problems if they install them on top of the rib. Fastener Specifications: Roof: Nails must be installed on top of the rib. Screws can be installed on top of the rib or in the flat surface of the panel between the ribs. Wall: Nails or screws can be installed on top of the rib or in the flat surface between ribs. Nailing of Steel Panels Roof Sheets Top & Bottom of wall sheets Wall sheets -Use 2½" E-Z Seal nails installed on top of the rib. -Use 1½" Neoprene nails installed in the flat surface -Use 2½" E-Z Seal nails installed on top of the rib Overlap Screwing of Steel Panels Roof Sheets Peak & Eave of roof sheets Wall sheets -Use 2" Woodgrip screws on rib top or 1" screws in the flat. -Use 1" Woodgrip screws installed in the flat surface -Use 1" Woodgrip screws installed in the flat surface Note: Screw lengths may need to be adjusted. Note: If an alternative fastening method is used, then the material list may have to be altered for proper fastener lengths. 37 Hanging Sidewall Steel Note: Optional Bottom Trim May be installed at this time. Note: Positioning of the first panel is critical. The first panel installed establishes the alignment and layout of the entire wall. It is very important that the first panel is accurately positioned and squared before fastening it in place. Tip: When laying out the steel panel have the overlap side of the panel away from the main line of sight. Tip: You may want to start at a corner away from the prevailing wind. Cut the first rib off leaving ¼" of rib on the first sheet of side steel (Fig. 1). Position the first panel so it is square in the corner. Make sure the first sheet of sidewall steel is level and the top of the sheet is even with the top edge of the edge purlin. This should leave approximately 3" of grade board exposed at the bottom (Fig.2). Using 1½" washer nails or 1" screws, secure the top and bottom of the steel panel at the lap next to the rib, to assure proper lap and seating of the steel panel. Securing the panel in this manner will assure all laps to be seated and will not allow the steel to grow or stretch as you are running it. Once all the panels are in place and secure only at the lap, snap a chalk line at each mid-girt location and finish fastening the wall with 2" neoprene washer nails or 2" screws on top of the rib. At the top and bottom of the panels use 1½" fasteners on both sides of each rib, for the length of the building. Bottom Trim 1" Wall Steel 1" 1" Grade Board Fig. 1 ¼" Fig. 2 Grade Post Hanging Endwall Steel 38 Composite Grade Board Steel Panel Note: Do not put fasteners on the rib at the top and bottom of the panel. Doing this may crush the end of the panel. Endwall panels are fastened in the same manner as the sidewall panels. The only difference is the gable sheets are always started from the middle of the building and run towards the corners. The panels should be measured and the gable angle cut off of the top before installing the panels. 1" Start Installing Roof Steel Note: Install optional Eave Trim before roof steel is installed. Note: Install optional inside closure strips before placing each roof panel. Be careful not to stretch the closure strips. Nail a temporary 2×4 block on the outside of each end truss extending 4" to 6" beyond the heel of the truss on both ends. The length that you extend the 2×4 will determine the overhang length. Run a mason line the full length of the building between these blocks. This mason line determines the length of the eave. Cut the first rib off leaving ¼" of rib on the first roof sheet of roof steel. Lay down the first roof steel panel, squaring it with the mason line. The roof panels are installed similar to the wall panels in layout. The only difference is the middle fastener is secured to the top of the rib instead of the flat. Fasten the sheets on the rib only. Inside Closure Strip Edge Purlin Temporary 2×4 Desired Steel Overhang End Truss Edge Purlin Nail Mason Line Using 2½" washer nails or 2" screws, fasten roof at top and bottom of the sheet in the flat next to each rib. All intermediate fasteners can be put on the rib or in the flat when using screws; on the rib only when using nails. Corner and Gable Trim Corner trim: Level the face of the trim with one side holding it up tight to the roof steel. Fasten into place when level. Gable trim: When applying the gable trim, make sure the top side of the trim is in line with the roof and the side of the gable trim is in line with the end wall. Fasten the top part to every purlin and the bottom part to the ribs on the end wall steel. CORNER & GABLE TRIM PREMIUM GABLE TRIM Roof Steel Eave Trim Corner Sidewall Steel Trim 1 2 1 EAVE TRIM Roof Steel 10 Gable Trim 150° 1 2 1 3 4 Eave Trim 2-1/4" Roof Steel 2" Gable Trim 5-1/8" Premium Gable Trim Eave Trim 121 4 3 4 Corner Trim Sidewall Steel 5-1/8" Corner Trim Sidewall Steel 3/4" 13/16" 39 Skylites Universal Ridgecap Outside Closure Strip Skylite Panel Peak Purlin Clear Polycarbonate Lap skylite over roof steel minimum of 12" Truss Pro-Sky® Ridgecap Roof Purlin Pro-Sky® Ridgecap is a translucent polycarbonate cover that has the same basic shape as the universal ridgecap. This cover has 100% light transmittance. Roof Steel Mastic sealants help provide a weatherproof seal and stop water from siphoning between sheets. • Same configuration as Pro-Rib® panels. • 20 Times Stronger than 5 oz. fiberglass • Highest light transmission • Class “A” Fire Rating • 10 Year Limited Warranty • Polycarbonate • 36" coverage 3' 155-8739 4' 155-8742 7' 155-8755 9' 155-8769 11' 155-8771 Clear as Glass teel as S Strong UNIVERSAL snow bar 1/4" 1" 1-1/4" 1" 2" 1-1/8" 1/4" 40 1-1/8" snow jack Crystal clear Polycarbonate with UV stabilizers Added strength due to a three to one base to blade ratio Provides maximum protection against roof avalanches and ice damage to gutters, plants, cars and pedestrian walkways. Dimensions: 3½" wide × 6" long × 2½" high Snow Jacks are located in the flat between the ribs located approximately 1'-2' up from the eave on the roof. Every other Jack should be staggered for maximum effectiveness. The number of pieces and spacing will vary depending on building width. Wainscot Lower decorative panel, usually a contrasting color from main building and matches trim Eavelite Translucent panel placed at the eaves Wall Steel Panel Pro-Rib Steel Panel 2x6 Wainscot nailer D-2 Trim Truss Edge Purlin Wainscot Length Wainscot Panels over 36" require a 2×4 placed between wainscot nailer and grade board. Steel Wainscot Panel Grade Board Eavelite Length Eavelite Panels over 36" require a 2×4 placed between eavelite nailer and edge purlin. Eavelite Panel Treated Post Treated Post D-2 Trim 2×6 Eavelite nailer Pro-Rib® Steel Panel 41 5 6" Universal /8" 5 5 13" /16" 13" 5 5" 3½" 5 8" Universal /16" 18" 5 18" /8" 5 /16" ½" ½" 7" 3½" 8" Series /8" 5 /16" ½" ½" 5" 6" Series /8" 3½" 7" 3½" PRO-ANCHOR TM Economical Powder coated finish Cutting edge technology Flexible - Wet set or drill set Professional engineered anchor Lightweight, quick, and easy to install Designed specifically for post frame buildings Brackets Special Order 6" L-Bracket......... 110-4996 4x6 Post............... 110-4970 6x6 Post............... 110-4982 3 Ply 2x8............... 110-4986 3 Ply 2x6............... 110-4974 4 Ply 2x8............... 110-4990 8" L-Bracket.........110-5000 4 Ply 2x6............... 110-4978 Hardware included with bracket for drill set application Post Covers Protect investment in building Easily installed on new or existing buildings Exterior or interior use Comes in 2 halves for easy installation Gives a professional clean finished look Affordable one time fix Measure, Cut, Fasten Custom Trim You Design it. We bend it. Go to: midwestmanufacturing.com for details. 42 Midwest offers coil stock in lengths up to 50 feet. This steel is not roll formed and thus will have no ribs. All trim coil stock is .018 inches nominal thickness after painting. (50 Ft. Max. per roll) Interior Liner Panel Dura-Panel™ Offers: • Significantly more durable than waferboard or drywall when used as a liner. • Matches Pro-Rib® configuration. • Special duty panels light and easy to handle. • Economically priced to save money with great results. • Virtually maintenance free. Available in these 2 colors White Acoustical Panel Large J-Trim 1" 1/4" with Frieze • Perforated between the ribs • Sound deadening liner • Used for walls and ceilings 3/4" 2-5/16" Inside INSIDE Corner CORNER Trim TRIM 5-1/2" 1" 1 5-1/2" 2 5 3 4 3/4" LARGE 3/4" J-TRIM WITH FRIEZE 1 11-1/4" 4 1-1/4" 114 13 16 13/16" Designed for lining inside buildings with steel panels. STEEL Inside INSIDE Corner CORNER HEM HEM Trim TRIM 5 21 ACRYLIC COATED GALVANIZED WHITE 1 2 3 4 1 Double J-Trim Option 1" 1" 1-3/4" 1-3/4" 43 Insulating Building Pro-Therm™ gives you these advantages: • Condensation control • R-6 Insulation value (estimated) • Lightweight, quick, and easy to install • Fire rating UL-723 • Facing meets ASTM C1136 • 87% light reflectance • Brite white facing for easy cleaning • 6" taped tabs allow easy lapping of insulation rolls. Pro-Therm™ Condensation Blanket R-40 Ceiling Double Girt Insulating method utilizing fiberglass batts of insulation up to 72" wide. 2×6 girts, applied flat, are used on Outside the outside of Girts the building and 2×4 girts, applied flat, are used on the interior of the building. Most common method of insulating an existing building. 2x4 Inside Girts Insulation R-40 Ceiling Bookshelf Girts Insulating method utilizing fiberglass batt insulation 24" wide. 2×6 girts are applied flat between the posts, and are used to finish off the outside and inside of the building at the same time. 44 R-19 Walls R-19 Walls Bookshelf Girts Laid flat & “Sandwiched” between posts Insulation Ventilation Fasten ridgecap and closure strip to the rib of the roof steel. Overhangs (See Page 28) Economy Vented Closure Strips Note: 1' overhangs intake approximately 7 square inches of air per foot. Vented closure strips exhaust 6 square inches of air per foot. Therefore, continuous vented closure strips equal a 1' overhang system. Repeat on both sides, making sure the cap runs straight with the peak. Lap cap approximately 6" over each other, using 2 beads of silicone sealant in the lap. Premium Vented Closure Strips • 40 year limited warranty • 8 square inches per lineal foot of closure strip • Conforms to roof pitch 2/12-20/12 • Industrial strength adhesive for permanent installation • Will not crack, clog or rust • Will not dent or scratch paint finish Ridge C ap te fS o Ro el Outside Vented Closure Strip directly over the Peak Purlin ACRYLIC PREMIUM 8" MW-35 Ridge Vent •3½" throat •36 square inches of free area per lineal foot. •Approximately 500 cfm of air exhausted when equal air is provided. •Special fiberglass rain diverter to allow natural light inside building •Splice plate and end flashing included. Gable Vent •Size is actual rough opening size •Nailing flange on all 4 sides •All steel construction •Square inches of free area: 14"×18" = 54" 18"×24" = 90" 45 Roof Cupolas 24" or 36" Available Pre-painted .018 steel construction. Slide on metal connectors for roof & wall sections. Weatherproof louver side vents. Bird screen included for mounting over roof cutout. 4/12 pitch flashing included Special pitch available Shipped unassembled. Mix or match any color of roof, corner post, louvered sides, and flashing color. Includes threaded base for weather vanes. 24x24x30 4/12156-9401 36x36x45 4/12156-9427 24x24x30 Special Pitch 156-9435 36x36x45 Special Pitch 156-9445 Carriage156-9508 Cow 156-9472 Duck 156-9480 Eagle 156-9476 Hog 156-9474 Horse 156-9469 Pheasant156-9470 Retriever156-9478 Rooster156-9485 Sailboat156-9524 Weather Vanes 46 ⁵⁄8" threaded top plate included Slide on Roof Sections Corner Post Bird wire mesh included 4/12 Pitch stocked Other pitches available Reverse flashing nail flange on the inside Standard flashing nail flange on the outside Choose color combinattion to match your building Hand cast aluminum with satin black enamel finish for maintenance-free service. 18" arrow length 4 lbs. Overall Height 205 ⁄8" 5 ⁄8" NC threaded (male) to attach to cupola’s Will not attach directly to roof Flashing Assembly Lay out the six pieces as shown and bend the designated pieces* to conform to the pitch of the roof. * Assemble the end pieces as shown with sheet metal screws. The flashing is pre-cut to a 4/12 pitch. Trimming the designated areas (*) may be required for other pitches. Attach the side pieces as shown to complete the flashing assembly. Cupola Installation Corner Post Trim * * * Fasteners * * * * Reverse Flashing Nail Flange on the inside. Roof Connecting Flange Fasteners * * Base Assembly Slide the four corner posts trim on the side assemblies. Roof Section Roof Cap Once all four sides are connected, turn the base over so the roof connecting flange is up. Roof Assembly Slide the roof sections into the roof connecting flange of each side assembly. Screw the roof cap to each of the roof sections using the steel plate provided. Slide each roof connector 4-6" at a time until all of the connectors are under the roof cap. After all of the roof connectors are driven under the roof cap, tighten the bolts and trim the roof connectors off to create a finished appearance. Roof Connectors Attach the cupola to the flashing assembly with sheet metal screws. Attach weathervane. Place the bird screen underneath the flashing assembly and attach the unit to the roof. 47 Horse Stalls Lumber Requirements The first step in building your stall is to decide on your finished dimensions, which determines the lengths of lumber required. The following specifications cover the lumber requirements for each wall model. Lumber listed is for 12' wide walls. Should your needs be different, just change the lumber lengths accordingly. Treated lumber is recommended if using 2×6 × 12'. Lumber from front wall can be used for door bottom rather than plywood. Front Wall with Grillwork and Door: • 1 pc. ¾" × 48" × 96" plywood (smooth 1 side) - for bottom half of sliding door. • 1 pc. 2×6 × 48" door header board • 9 pcs. 2×6 × 96" wall boards • 1 pc. 2×12 × 144" track board • 2 pcs. 2×2 × 36" door channel filler Front Wall System Door dimensions are 48" wide, 86" high. Overhead clearance must be at least 94½" to accommodate the door, trolley, and track. System comes complete with the following: Grillwork sections: 10' front includes 1 - 24" & 1 - 48" 12' front includes 2 - 48" • 2 End channels • 4 Header channels • 1 Wall Brace Assembly Screws Side Wall System System comes complete with the following: Grillwork sections: 10' sidewall includes 2 - 48" & 1 - 24" 12' sidewall includes 3 - 48" • 2 End channels • 2 Header channels • 1 Wall brace assembly screws Partition or Rear Wall System System comes complete with the following: • 4 End channels • 2 Wall brace assembly screws 48 Solid Front Wall with Door: • 1 pc. ¾" × 48" × 96" plywood (smooth 1 side) - for bottom half of sliding door. • 1 pc. 2×6 × 48" door header board • 9 pcs. 2×6 × 96" wall boards • 1 pc. 2×12 × 144" track board • 2 pcs. 2×2 × 36" door channel filler • 11 pcs. 2×6 × 144" wall boards Solid Side Wall: • 17 pcs. 2×6 × 144" wall boards Typical corner posts are standard 4×4 lumber. Five (5) posts are required for the first stall and three (3) additional posts for each stall thereafter, when constructed side-by-side. Note: All 4×4 posts should be 8' in length above the ground. Longer posts are required if they are to be anchored in the ground. Horse Stalls Assembly Instructions Post Installation After making your lumber list, the next step is to layout the stall. Install all corner posts with 8' of length above ground and lateral dimensions at 10' or 12' on centers, depending on the width of the walls you have selected. Be sure they’re all plumb, level and true. Next, install the center door post wall with a 4' dimension (on centers) from the corner post on the side that you want the door (see Stall Arrangement drawing). Take note of the 1½" offset of the center post, which is necessary so that the sliding door can open past the post. The front wall and center post must all be flush. With all posts in place, you are now ready to install the walls you’ve selected. Unpack each carton as you’re ready for installation and account for all parts on the packing list. Review the assembly drawings to familiarize yourself with parts placement and read all instructions carefully. Stall Arrangement X = 10' or 12' Y = 4' Z = 6' or 8' Note post offset flush with wall Y a Door Kit X X Z b i b A. 1 8' #3B round track e B. 1 pair 203-L trolley hangers C. 1 45"x36" welded grille section c D. 86" lumber fit vertical channel d f E. #630 sliding latch F. 50-3 door pull d G. 1 4' #61 bottom guide H. #401 bottom guide retainer g I. #540 door stop h 49 Contractor grade jumbo gutter systems Left end cap Hidden hangers 2' O.C. Right end cap 6" Jumbo gutter Inside corner Outside corner Front elbow 2 per downspout • Available in all matching 25 colors • Premium paint system • Made with heavy duty 28 gauge steel • 58% more volume than 5" gutters • Quick and easy to install • All the right accessories available give the professional finished look • Downspouts offer twice the volume as standard, reducing clogs • Designed to fit with 6" fascia Bead of lap sealant Downspout bands 2 per downspout Downspout Side Elbow Notch upstream * * * gutter systems 1.Lap gutter 6" overlap (min.) (Relief cut up stream section) *Placement of A. Make relief cut on gutter lap. pop rivets or B. Bead of silicone in lap joint. srews C. Interlock gutter. D. Pop rivet or screw together. 2.End caps Apply A. Apply sealant to end cap channel. sealant B. Attach end cap. in channel C. Crimp on end cap. all the way 3.Downspout outlet A. Mark and cut outlet hole. around. B. Apply sealant to outlet. C. Rivet or screw outlet to gutter. 4.Install gutter A. Place hidden hangers 24" o.c. B. Place gutter against fascia. C. Install hex head screw into fascia board. 5. Install downspout A. Assemble downspout and elbows as required. B. Rivet or screw assembly together. C. Attach assembly to gutter and downspout. D. Attach downspout bands as needed to downspout and wall. Mark and cut out hole using jig saw or snips. To properly lap 2 pieces of gutter, make a relief cut on the gutter lap. Be sure this relief cut is on the upstream portion of the gutter. Apply a bead of silicone between the overlapped gutter portions. This will prevent the seam from leaking. Finally, apply two pop rivets in the designated locations. 50 Gutter installation Determine your downspout locations. Mark and cut outlet hole for downspouts outlet. Apply silicone to the bottom side of the downspout outlet. Place the outlet from the top side of the gutter. Using four pop-rivets rivet the downspout outlet to the gutter. It is also possible to install the downspout outlet before attaching your gutter to the fascia board. To attach the downspout to the outlet, slide the downspout over the bottom of the outlet. Rivet the downspout to the outlet using four rivets. Apply silicone sealant on the interior channel of the end cap To install the end cap to the gutter apply a generous bead of silicone sealant. The cap will slide onto the end of the gutter. It is also possible to install End Caps before attaching your gutter to the Fascia Board. 51 Our columns are an engineered product. You know what you are getting and what the column is capable of withstanding before you install it. You don’t get that with a 4x6 or 6x6 piece of timber. It’s not just glue and finger joints holding these columns together. There are thread locked wires driven straight through the layers of these columns and then rivet clenched on both sides to provide superior holding power. Our columns feature a 20 gauge stainless steel plate at all splice points in the column. This provides maximum strength even at what would normally be the weakest point. 29 Gauge Panel Actual .0142" minimum thickness before painting .0165" nominal thickness after painting G-60 Galvanized Coating plus Zinc Phosphate Limited 40 Year Paint Warranty ® Pro-Rib is the leading steel panel in the post frame industry offered at competitive prices and is comparable with nearly all of the standard panels ® on the market today. Pro-Rib is also increasing its usage in the residential and light commercial markets. 28 Gauge Panel Actual .0157” minimum thickness before painting .018” nominal thickness after painting G-100 Galvanized Coating plus Zinc Phosphate Limited Lifetime Paint Warranty ® ® Premium Pro- Rib is one of the most versatile members of the Pro-Rib family of quality products. It is truly a premium wall and roof panel whose applications span a tremendous variety of residential, commercial, and industrial construction projects. The superior performance of the Premium Paint System sets this panel apart from the crowd. Our columns are straight. Hydraulic pressures systems generate hundreds of pounds of pressure over the entire length of the column to straighten it before it is manufactured. Our columns are more versatile. We build columns up to 60' or greater. Try getting a 6x6 - 60' from your local lumber yard! We also provide multiple lumber grades so that your columns are built for your application. Not overbuilt or overpriced. We use a galvanized thread lock wire in all areas of the column except for the treated portion that will contact the ground. This area gets coated stainless steel wire protection. Midwest columns can also be built with 4 or 5 plys. Our columns are safer. They feature a pre-built notch. This allows for the truss to sit firmly in the column and eliminates the need to carry a chain saw up a ladder to notch the timber. The nations’s leading nail manufacturer does not make a nail long enough to go completely through three layers of dimensional 2" lumber. Our process doesn’t need a nail because it makes its own. We drive all the way through the layers, making this the column you can count on! 20 gauge stainless steel plates at all joints 9" On Center steel panel profile 38" Nominal Underlap 3/4" high 36" Nominal 9" On Center Overlap Pro-Rib One Hundred Square Foot Calculation Length.................................... 96" Number of pieces.................. ×20 Equals................................. 1920 100 sq ft conversion..... ×.002639 Equals.......................... 5.067 SQ 100 square ft. conversion factor is based on the overall formed 38" width of the Pro-Rib® panel. Pro-Snap One Hundred Square Foot Calculation Length.................................... 96" Number of pieces.................. ×20 Equals................................. 1920 100 sq ft conversion......×.001215 Equals........................ 2.3328 SQ 100 square ft. conversion factor is based on the overall formed width of the Pro-Snap® panel, 17½". Available in 24 Panel Colors Grade 80 (Full Hard Steel) 100,000 p.s.i. nom.Tensile Strength UL 2218 Class 4 Hail Resistance UL 790 Class A Fire Resistance UL 580 Class 90 Wind Uplift ® ® 28 Gauge Panel Actual .0157” minimum thickness before painting .018” nominal thickness after painting G-100 Galvanized Coating plus Zinc Phosphate Limited Lifetime Paint Warranty ® Premium Pro-Snap is an excellent choice for your residential or light ® commercial applications. Premium Pro-Snap is an economical, snap ® together, concealed fastener roofing panel. Premium Pro-Snap offers ease of installation, longevity, energy savings and exceptional durability. The superior performance of the Premium Paint System sets this steel roofing panel apart from the crowd. -Plus Copper Colored in Lifetime Products Trim Available in All Colors Zinc Phosphate Pre-Treatment Coil Coating “Paint” Process ASTM-A755 Structural Strength ASTM-A653 For Underwriters Laboratory Product Certifications see www.ul.com Steel Colors: Ash Gray, Beige, Black, Brite Red, Brite White, Bronze, Brown, Burgundy, Burnished Slate, Charcoal Gray, Colonial Red, Emerald Green, Forest Green, Galvanized, Ivory, Lt. Gray, Midnight Gray, Ocean Blue, Patina Green, Pinewood, Prairie Wheat, Red, Slate Blue, Tan, White Copper colored & Multi-Tone steel avialable in Premium Products 2½" Galvanized @75/# 230-1011 2½" Painted @75/# 230-1105 3" Galvanized @60/# 230-1040 3" Painted @60/# 230-1134 4" Galvanized @50/# 230-1079 4" Painted @50/# 230-1163 • Ringshank for holding power • Preferred by professionals for Roofing • Extra thick silicone washer resists drying out and provides superior water tight seal • Available in all 25 colors • All Galvanized for long life 1¼" SOFFIT NAILS NEOPRENE POLE BARN NAILS CORNER AND GABLE TRIM FOR SIDEWALL APPLICATION Roof Steel 1½" Galvanized @125/# 230-1192 1½" Painted @125/# 230-1286 2" Galvanized @100/# 230-1228 2" Painted @100/# 230-1312 2½” Galvanized @80/# 230-1257 2½” Painted @80/# 230-1341 • Ringshank for holding power • Preferred by professionals for Sidewalls • Neoprene washer for water tight seal • Available in all 25 colors • All Galvanized for long life RING SHANK POLE BARN NAILS, HARDENED SHANK Eave Trim 10-3/4" 3/4" Sidewall Steel Corner Trim 5-1/8" • Cover and trim outside siding corners and gable ends. White Brown SO Colors 8' 156-3889 10'156-3520 156-3708 156-3915 12'156-3546 156-3724 156-3931 14'156-3562 156-3740 156-3957 16'156-3588 156-3766 156-3973 STITCH SCREWS EAVE TRIM FASCIA CAP L-4 FASCIA Premium Gable Trim J-Trim 140˚ 1 3 4 121 4-1/4" • Top edge of roof panel flashing • Used with outide closure strips • 20" wide 10' 155-8412 SO Color 155-8425 SO Galvanized 155-8409 RAKE TRIM RESIDENTIAL RIDGE 1 3 4 156-5645 Roof Steel 181 3/4" 3 16 Hem 2-3/4" 1-1/8" Soffit 9/16" • Rake trim flashes the endwall edge overhangs of the steel of the roof. 12' Lengths SO Colors 156-4040 2-1/4" Gable Trim 2" 13/16" 3/4" Corner Trim 22 3-5/8" 3-5/8" 3 4 2 43 1-3/8" Hem SNAP RIDGE Sidewall Steel • Used as alternative to rake and gable trim to create a 6" overhang. 14' Lengths SO Colors 156-5645 SNAP RIDGE L-6 FASCIA 5-1/2" 3-1/2" 7/8" 7/8" Soffit Sidewall Steel 1-1/2" • Used as Fascia on 6" wide material • Used for overhang flashing 12' Lengths; SO 12' 156-4587 12' Wht 156-6831 Door Jamb Trim L-8 FASCIA DOOR JAMB TRIM 3-1/2" 1-1/2" Door Jamb 1-1/2" 1-3/4" REVERSE “J” 1" 1" 1-3/4" • Used as closure and trim along the top edge of a sidewall and around door and window openings 39.5" 156-6284 8'6" 156-6310 10' Wht 156-6336 10' 156-6349 10'6" 156-6378 12'6" 156-6404 16'3" 156-6433 • Reverse “J” is used on the hip of a roof with snap ridge. 10' Lengths SO Colors 156-4150 FRIEZE & “J” TRIM SMALL FRIEZE & “J” TRIM LARGE 1" 1/4" 1" 1/4" 1 7/16" Soffit 2 ° 1601" 160° 1 • The small is a great time saver 2-13/16" 2 3/4" 1 when installing an overhang. 2 • The large is designed for lining 12' Small 156-4354 inside buildings with steel panels. 1 2 FRIEZE STARTER 12' 156-4341 SOFFIT 1 3 1-1/2" 5/8" • Used as alternative to rake and gable trim to create a 6" overhang. 10' Lengths SO Colors 156-4163 1" 1" 1-3/4" 1/4" Reverse J Top Girt • Used to cover gable ends on overhangs • Supports soffit panels 9' 156-5599 14' Wht 156-5641 Door Jamb 3-3/8" Soffit Panel BOXED END FASCIA 1-3/8" 330° 9 3 • Ridge cap for the peak of the roof 16 16 • Hip of a roof 10' Lengths; 4, 5, 6, 8, or 10/12 pitch 4/12 pitch All Colors 156-4215 5/12 pitch All Colors 156-4257 4/12 pitch All Colors 156-4228 4/12 pitch All Colors 156-4231 4/12 pitch All Colors 156-4244 Specify color on order Soffit Panel 1-1/2" 1-1/2"1-1/2" 4-1/2" • Used as Fascia on 4" wide material • Used for overhang flashing • Used as snow guard on endwall purlins 10' Lengths; SO 10' 156-4590 12' 156-4370 12' White 156-6828 150˚ 13/16" 4 RESDIENTIAL • Used as alternative to rakeTRIM and gable RAKE trim to create a 6" overhang. 1/2" 1" • Supports Soffit Panel • Used to cover 2x4 fascia board on eave of building 12'3" Lengths; SO 156-5670 Snow guard must be installed before roof steel & gable steel 1 1 • Used as trim for sliding doors and service doors 7/16" 9'156-5269 10'156-5272 10' Wht 156-5243 12' 156-5285 14' 156-5298 16' 156-5308 1" 3/4" 2-5/16" Steel 1" 3/4" 12' Large 156-4367 1/4" 1" Used as trim for sliding doors and service doors 8-1/4" Soffit RIDGECAP “J” TRIM 1/4" 1-1/2" Soffit 1 2-1/2" 4" 6-1/4" UNIVERSALRIDGECAP UNIVERSAL 5" 150° 1 2 14' Lengths SO Colors 5/8" • Available in 3/12 or 4/12 pitch 3/12 155-5965 4/12 155-5978 10 1 2 Eave Trim 4-1/4" Soffit Roof Steel Corner Sidewall Steel Trim 1" Galvanized @140/# 155-9842 2" Painted @70/# 155-9846 • Preferred siding & roofing screw used to fasten Pro-Snap ® steel roofing panels • Use 40 screws per square or 1 screw every 2' of panel 3-3/4" 13/16" 5-1/4" 13/16" PREMIUM GABLE TRIM PRO-SNAP® SCREWS 3/4" Gable Trim A 1# box covers 150' or 112 pieces of soffit. 10D (3") Galvanized @45/# 230-1370 1 # Box - Specify color 156-4396 30D (4½") Galvanized @35/# 230-1435 60D (6") Oil Quenched @25/# 230-1464 WOODGRIP SCREWS • Ringshank for holding power 1" Galvanized @115/# 230-1493 • Hardened Shank for easy application 1" Painted @115/# 230-1613 1½" Galvanized @95/# 230-1529 SELF TAPPING SCREWS 1½" Painted @95/# 230-1642 ¾" Galvanized @85/# 230-1736 2" Galvanized @75/# 230-1558 ¾" Painted @85/# 230-1820 2" Painted @75/# 230-1671 1" Galvanized @75/# 230-1765 2½" Galvanized @65/# 230-1587 1" Painted @75/# 230-1859 2½" Painted @65/# 230-1707 1½" Galvanized @60/# 230-1794 • Preferred siding & roofing screw used to 1½" Painted @60/# 230-1888 fasten steel panels to wood structures • Used to attach steel panels to steel • No Predrilling required #9 Diamater structure and steel frame sliding doors • ¼" Hex Head • No Predrilling required #12 Diamater • Neoprene washer for water tight seal • ⁵⁄16 " Hex Head • Available in all 25 colors • Neoprene washer for water tight seal • All Galvanized for long life • Available in all 25 colors ¾" Galvanized @100/# 230-1914 ¾" Painted @100/# 230-1943 • Used to stitch at overlap location and to plug holes in steel panels • Neoprene washer for water tight seal • #12 diameter, ¼" Hex Head END CAPS 5-1/8" E-Z SEAL POLE BARN NAILS FOR ROOF APPLICATION Door Jamb 1/4" 1-1/2" HEM TRIM Weather strip • Used as Fascia on 8" wide material • Used for overhang flashing 8'6" 156-6857 10'6" 156-6886 SO 12' 156-6912 12' Wht 156-6844 ⁷⁄16" “J” 1" Steel Panel • Used at the top of the wall to support the soffit 2-1/2" TRIM 5/8" 1/2" Wall Sheathing 4 2x ailer N 2-1/2" • Covers cut steel edge around openings 10' Lengths; SO 156-6721 Lap Siding 7/16" Soffit Panels 1/4" Hem 9/16" 12' 156-4338 • J-Trim used with soffit • Covers overhangs at top of the wall VENTED: 1'×16" 156-4309 2'×16" 156-4312 12'×16" 156-4312 SOLID: 12'×16" 156-4406 53 SIDEWALL FLASHING • To be used where flashing is needed to go behind the wall 4-3/4" steel and on top of the roof steel 10' SO 156-7173 1-1/2" 150˚ 13/16" 5" END WALL FLASHING 3/4" • To be used where there is a lean-to type roof sloping, away from the vertical wall. 13/16" 10' SO 156-7209 126˚ 6" 3/4" Sidewall flashing End wall flashing OUTSIDE VERTICAL DOOR TRIM 2-1/4" & INSIDE GAMBREL 2" BREAK TRIM 3-3/4" 4-3/8" 13/16" Roof Steel Panels Outside 156-7267 • Used at the hip 155˚ and flared joint on a 4-3/8" gambrel 13/16" roof 10' SO Inside 156-7238 3/4" 2x4 SPF Purlins ROOF EDGE Overhang Jack 3-3/4" POST FRAME WINDOWS 3/4" 1-1/8" 1" 1" 1-1/4" 1" 19" 2" 1-1/8" 1/4" • Used for roof valley flashing 10' Lengths 156-1066 18" VALLEY FLASHING • Universal snow bar 10' Lengths; SO 156-6740 SNOW JACK 1" 1" 8" 8" • Used for roof valley flashing 10' Lengths 156-1037 INSIDE CORNER HEM INSIDE CORNER HEM TRIM • Helps prevent snow avalanches 157-2676 VALLEY CAP 1-1/4" 1 Valley cap Valley flashing INSIDE CORNER INSIDE CORNER TRIM TRIM• An attractive detail trim for 140° 5-1/2" inside corners 1 • Provides larger 2 coverage 5 5-1/2" 6-1/2" • Used to cover roof valley flashing 10' Lengths 156-0999 CLOSURE STRIPS 3/4" 8' 156-7076 12' 156-7092 Pro-Rib ® Inside 4 pk SO 155-8616 Stock 155-8577 Pro-Snap ® Outside 8 pk SO 155-9862 SO 1 2 Colors 5 10' 156-7089 14' 156-7144 OUTSIDE CLOSURE Regular or vented End wall Pro-Rib ® Outside 4 pk SO 155-8603 Stock 155-8580 Pro-Rib ® Outside Vented 4 pk SO 155-8593 OUTSIDE CLOSURE Pro-Snap® configuration 54 RIDGE VENTILATION Premium vented closure strip Window Unit • Used for flashing and breaks in sidewalll panels 12'3" Lengths; SO 156-5861 Pro-Rib ® 155-8548 Pro-Snap ® 155-9858 DRIP CAP 2-1/2" 1/4" 1-1/4" • Flashing for window and door headers 10' Lengths; SO 156-4574 SINGLE SLIDING DOOR 112TRACK 2 12 COVER 1" 3-1/2" 2-3/8" 135˚ Track • Coceals single 2x4 trackboard header 10' Lengths; SO 155-5871 DOUBLE TRACKBOARD TRIM 3" 3" 2" 3 4 2 Track Board Support Track Support OVERDOOR TRACKBOARD TRIM • Coceals sliding door header 10' Lengths; SO 155-5907 1" 3-1/8" 8 MINI-WAREHOUSE TRIM 1-1/8" Sidewall Steel Panel 1-1/8" 2-5/8" MM Truss Mini-Warehouse Frame 1-1/8" Pole 2" • Used to trim openings on Mini-warehouse overhead doorways 6'6" 156-6909 9'6" 156-7005 7'6" 156-6967 10'6" 156-7021 8'6" 156-6983 5/8" Track Board 3 3 DOUBLE SLIDING DOOR TRACK COVER 2" 1-1/2" 145º 7-3/4" 145º 3/4" 2-1/2" 135º 2-1/4" 3 78 31 2-1/2" • Coceals door track • Serves as sliding door flashing • Hemmed edge locks into tab brackets 10' Lengths; SO 155-5842 • Coceals double 2x4 trackboard header and stopblock 10' Lengths; SO 155-5897 3-7/8" INSIDE CLOSURE 1-1/2" 2 13 16 13/16" 6-1/2" 1/2" 2-1/2" 1-1/4" 2" 1 2" Window Unit 1-1/4" SINGLE12TRACKBOARD TRIM 1-3/4" 1" 1 2 DOUBLE ANGLE TRIM 4' × 3' 403-3840 5' × 4' 403-3853 134 158 • Used as a break on vertical wall steel for eavelites/wainscot 10' Lengths; SO 156-4710 NOTE: Screen units are to be installed on the exterior of the bldg. Storm units are installed on the inside of the building. Therefore when ordering windows you generally just order a screen unit. Sometimes you may order a screen and a storm, but it is highly doubtful that you would be using a storm unit alone. 1 7 7/8" 8 1/2" • Built in “J” Channel on screen units. • Frame and Sash are completely weather stripped with woven pile. • A durable standard baked enamel finish available in white or brown. • Shipped ready to install. • Center strong mullion • Nylon track for easy sliding sash. 48" W×36" H 60" W×20" H Wht w J 403-3730 403-3756 Brn w J 403-3772 403-3785 Wht Strm 403-3743 403-3769 4' × 2' 403-3824 4 3' × 4' 403-3837 • Attractive detail inside corner trim Hidden fasteners 10' SO 156-4710 HEMMED D-2 TRIM 1-5/8" THERMOPANE INSULATED WINDOWS 114 • To be used with Midest all steel frame sliding door systems • Use to seal where doors meet 10' 156-6527 14' 156-6543 16' 156-6556 48" W × 36" H Rough Opening Storm unit White only 60" W × 20" H Rough Opening Screen unit White or Brown • Roof Edge flashes the top edge of sidewall overhangs 10' Lengths; SO 156-4095 1/2" 2" 13/16" 3/4" • To be used with Midest all steel frame sliding door systems • Covers the edge of the door 10' 156-6653 14' 156-6679 12' 156-6666 16' 156-6682 1/2" 1-1/2" 3-1/2" 3/4" 150° 13 3 16 1 4 4 Hem 3-1/2" 1/4" 19" 343 13/16" 150° UNIVERSAL SNOW BAR 1" 4 38 Gambrel Truss 7/8" 40" VALLEY FLASHING 155° 3/4" ASTRAGAL TRIM • Coceals double door track • Serves as sliding door flashing • Hemmed edge locks into tab brackets 1 10' Lengths; SO 155-5855 FLAT STEEL MIDWEST offers flat steel in lengths up to 50 fet. This steel is not roll formed and thus will have no ribs. .018 steel 4" 155-6773 11" 155-6841 6" 155-6799 15" 155-6860 8" 155-6812 18" 155-6870 10" 155-6812 40.625" 155-6896 CUSTOM BENT STEEL TRIM AVAILABLE 55 Sku# 101-7835 9/14 www.midwestmanufacturing.com