Download Post Frame

Helpful Hints for
Constructing Post Frame
Buildings
Commercial
Suburban
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Agricultural
Post Frame
STEEL PANELS
• UL Class “A” fire rated • Highest impact resistance (Class 4) • UL580 Class 90 Wind Uplift
• 100,000 PSI Minimal tensile strength
Not available in Copper Colored or Multi-Tone.
COPPER
COLOR
BARKDUST
BAY HARBOR BLUE
GOLD RUSH
NORTHWEST SLATE
TWILIGHT BLACK
WOODLAND TIMBER
Table of Contents
Before Getting Started
Talk to Local Building Inspector
Items Recommended
Traditional Post Frame Construction
Page
4
4
String Line Building Dimensions
5
Square the Building
5
Setting Corner Posts
6
Post Location
7
Grade Board
9
Girts10
Headers11
Truss Location
12
Raising Trusses
13
Purlins14
Bracing14-15
Sliding Door Framing
16-17
Sliding Door Accessories and Trim
18-19
Tab Lock Sliding Doors
20-21
Kwik Frame Sliding Doors
22
Overhead Door Framing
23
Bookshelf Post Frame Construction
24-27
Accessories & Trim
52-54
Overhangs and Trim
28-29
Windows30
Service Doors
31-33
Dutch Doors
34-35
Storing, handling, and cutting panels
36
Panel Installation
37-39
Skylite40
Wainscot and Eavelite
41
Pro-Anchor™, Post covers, Coil stock trim
42
Interior Liner Panel
43
Insulation44
Ventilation45
Cupola Installation
46-47
Horse Stalls
48-49
Gutter Installation
50-51
3
Before Getting Started
This Helpful Hints Guide has been developed to help you construct your post frame
building and makes no representation or guarantee that you will be able to successfully
complete your building. It is important that questions be asked before you get too far
into construction. Study this manual carefully before starting construction. You can use
it as a guide and refer to it during construction.
Have you talked to your local building inspector? We suggest you check with your
local building official regarding site location, permit procedures, safety regulations and
specifications of the materials used to construct your new building.
PLEASE NOTE: This Helpful Hints Guide is intended solely to provide general
knowledge as to one of the many ways that a post frame building may be
constructed. Builders who utilize this guide must proceed at their own risk and
are solely responsible for complying with all the building codes which pertain
to their community.
hereby disclaims all liability for any damages
whether consequential, incidental, special or otherwise, which may result from
following this Helpful Hints Guide.
has many prints available to the builder to better aid them in the
construction of the post frame building: Mini-Prints, Code Exempt Prints, and
Engineered Prints. See your store for details.
Before the building is delivered make sure that your site is clear. Prepare the site
so it is level 6' beyond the building on all sides. Remember to make sure there is
enough room for the delivery truck to move around on your site. The bigger the
building, the bigger the truck delivering the building will be.
Warning: If metal is not being used immediately, store panels and trim in a dry
area out of the sun. See handling instructions on page 36 for more information.
Tip: If you plan to have a concrete floor now or at a later date please make sure
the material list has been adjusted properly to accommodate this feature. By
putting in a concrete floor into your building you may lose the thickness of the floor
from your total interior height. Check for proper turning radius and clearance for
overhead doors.
Items recommended for the construction of your post frame building:
• Mason line
• Post Frame Building Hammer
• Tape Measure
• Hand Saw
• Framing Square • Level
• Chalk Line
• Nail Apron
• Metal Snips
• Pencil
• Chain Saw
• Circular Saw
• Drill• Mini-Print
4
All of the above items can be purchased at your local
store.
Traditional Post Frame Construction
String Line Building Dimensions
• Locate and stake corners of the building. Grade should be level and free of obstructions.
• Drive three stakes into the ground spaced about 6' apart and approximately 4' behind
each building corner stake.
• Nail batter boards to the outside of the stakes, approximately 12" above the grade.
• Starting at corner #1, stretch a mason line directly over the top of the corner stakes for one
side of the building. Finish stretching the mason line between the remaining corners to form
the outline of the building. Check for proper dimensions, making adjustments as needed.
6'
Approx. 4'
6'
e
Corner
#2
n Lin
Maso
Approx. 4'
W
id
Corner
#1
Batter
Boards
th
Corner
#3
th
Leng
Corner
#4
Call your local digger’s hotline to check for
underground lines before digging.
Square the Building
• Measure 6' from any corner along the sideline and make a mark. Measure 8' from the
same corner along the end line and make a mark. The diagonal distance between the
marks should be exactly 10'. If not, adjust a line at the corner to fit. Repeat this process
at the next three corners.
• To square mason lines, measure diagonally. To be squared, their
measurements need to be the same. Adjust as necessary.
Make sure your sidewall and end wall
8'
6'
dimensions are correct.
Diagonal A =
Diagonal B
ia
Diagonal B
go
na
lA
10'
D
5
Set and Plumb Corner Posts /Laminated
Dig holes at least 4 feet deep, any less may compromise
Columns
your strength for wind loads and frost protection.
Dig the corner holes first. Tamp the bottom of the hole to
avoid settling. Place a concrete pad in the bottom of each
hole.
Secure treated anchor blocks 1⁄8" from the bottom of each
post with 10d, 3" nails on each side of the post. Repeat for
all posts. These anchor blocks increase the building’s wind
uplift rating.
Note: If treated anchor blocks are wider than the post, use
the pattern in the diagram.
Grade
For buildings with bookshelf girts refer to page 24.
Fit the sides of the post into the corner of mason line layout,
allowing room (1½") for girts between the mason line and the
post for both the sidewall and end wall. The outside of the
girts is the final dimension measurements for the building.
Keep checking to make sure the post is plumb and in line
with the mason line. Nail a temporary 2" × 4" brace on the
inside of the corner post near the top extending to stakes in
the ground. Bracing should be applied in both the sidewall
and end wall directions.
- Fill the hole with dirt and tamp solid.
- Repeat this with all corner posts.
Treated
Anchor
Blocks
Thickness of Footing
Width
Follow your print for the correct post length.
Stand the corner post vertically in the hole so the longer
width sets perpendicular to the sidewall and the shorter
width runs parallel to the sidewall. I.E. for 4×6 post, the
4" dimension runs parallel and the 6" dimension runs
perpendicular to the sidewall.
P
O
S
T
Embedment
Depth - 4'
Minimum
Concrete
Footing
Post
Anchor Blocks
Check for
plumb with level
on two sides.
Corner
Post
1½"
Endwall
Corner 1½"
Post
1½"
Laminated Columns; A Stronger Choice
Midwest Manufacturing has incorporated Laminated Columns for certain building specifications.
Rivet clinched Laminated Columns are an option to solid treated posts. Rivet clinched
Laminated Columns provide advantages over solid posts: More versatile - up to 60' or more in
length; Engineered straight with hydraulic pressure, then rivet clinched for superior holding power;
Reinforced joints with 20 gauge steel plates; Multiple lumber grades - custom built with treated
6
lumber at the base; Safer with pre-built notch - no chain saw on ladder needed.
Locate Sidewall Posts /Laminated Columns
Temporarily tack a 2" × 4" block on the end wall side
of the corner post, approximately 1' up from grade.
Measure to your particular spacing along mason line,
stick a nail in the ground directly under the mason line.
Continue down the sidewall in the same fashion. At
each nail location, dig a hole on the inside of the string
for the sidewall posts.
Jamb Posts (Door Posts)
Note: For overhead doors the door width is
measured from inside of post to inside of post.
For sliding doors the door width is measured from
center of post to center of post. See pages 16-23.
Sidewall
Post
Corner
Post
2×4 Block
on Endwall
Level
ng
paci
tS
Pos
Measure to your particular spacing from the
temporary 2"×4" block on the corner post to the
closest edge of the first sidewall post. Set in pads
and posts. Allow room for girts between the mason
line and post. Make sure the post remains plumb.
Nail
Fill hole with dirt and tamp solid.
Measure to your particular spacing from far edge of
the second post to the closest edge of the next post.
Set in pad and post. Allow 1½" between the mason
line and post. Make sure the post remains plumb.
Fill hole with dirt and tamp solid. Continue down the
rest of the sidewall.
Sidewall
Post
Sidewall
Post
Level
Repeat procedure starting from the same endwall, on
the opposite side.
g
acin
t Sp
Pos
Nail
Endwall Posts
Using print specifications, extend endwall posts up to
the top of the roofline.
In order for stability and safety in the construction
process, posts on end walls should be set an equal
distance apart and are not to exceed 10' on center.
(Excluding door openings.)
Endwall
Post
10' Max
Endwall
Post
C
L
10' Max
Endwall
Post
C
L
10' Max
C
L
10' Max
7
Wainscot
Trusses
Laminated
Columns
Purlins
Gradeboard
Girts
8
Anchor Blocks
Install Grade Board
Composite Grade Board:
1. Locate the corner post with the highest grade.
2. Place nail at post, setting building grade.
3. Establish a level line around the perimeter.
End gap distance for every 16' of plank
Current Maximum expected temperature
Temp 70
80
90
100 110 120
40 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 3/16" 7/32" 1/4"
50 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 3/16" 7/32"
60 1/32" 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 5/32" 3/16"
70 ---
1/32" 1/16" 3/32" 1/8" 5/32"
80 ---
---
1/32" 1/16" 3/32" 1/8"
90
---------1/32"
1/16"
3/32"
4. Place a nail in each post at the level line.
5. Install grade board to posts with 30d - 4½"
ring shank nails on top of level line nail. Nails
should be placed in the three built-in grooves
extruded in composite grade board.
Grooves
6. Keep boards flush with end of post to allow
for corner cap to be applied. (Boards can also be
mitered and butted together at ends.)
7. Remove grade nails once grade board is attached.
For proper spacing between boards see chart.
Composite Grade Board Accessories:
Outside
Corner
Inside
Corner
Endcap
Nail at base of post where grade
is highest
Connector Expansion
Spacer
Sidewall
Post
Sidewall
Post
Nail at line
level mark
Treated Grade Board:
e
n Lin
Maso
Line Level
1. Locate the corner post with the highest grade.
2. Place nail at post, setting building grade.
3. Establish a level line around the perimeter.
Sidewall
Post
4. Place a nail in each post at the level line.
5. Install grade board to posts with 30d (4½"
ring shank) nails on top of level line nails.
6. Remove grade nails once grade board is attached.
Note: Treated grade board may require plastic flashing.
e
Grad
d
Boar
Grade
Nail
Plastic
Flashing
9
Place Wall Girts
Cut three 2x4 spacer blocks at correct size using girt
chart below:
2×6 Girts
Wall # Rows Spacer On Center
Height of Girts Block Size Spacing
7' 2 25.5" 31.0"
8' 2 29.5" 35.0"
9' 3 23.5" 29.0"
10' 3 26.5" 32.0"
11' 3 29.5" 35.0"
12' 4 25.0" 30.5"
13' 4 27.5" 33.0"
14' 4 30.0" 35.5"
15' 5 26.0" 31.5"
16' 5 28.0" 33.5"
17' 5 30.0" 35.5"
18' 6 26.5" 32.0"
19' 7 28.5" 34.0"
20' 7 30.0" 35.5”
Sidewall
Girt
30d - 4½" Ring
Shank Nails
Note: Make any adjustments as necessary to
girts to accommodate any special options such as
eavelite and wainscot panels. See page 41 for details.
Tip: Keep posts plumb while installing girts.
Remove the spacer block above the grade board and
place spacer blocks on top of the first row of girts, and
nail second row of girts into place on both sidewalls and
end walls. Repeat.
Special Note: If you have a sidewall overhang: The
overhang soffit nailer is not installed at the same time
as the girts and should be installed when the overhangs
are being framed. See page 28. Allow room for jamb
material when placing girts on a jamb post. See door
framing details page 16-17. Before installing the last
girt, set all headers.
10
Spacer
Blocks
Spacer
Blocks
Bay
d
boar
e
Grad
Rest the spacer blocks on top of the grade board,
temporarily tack the blocks into place.
Rest a girt (two bays at once) on top of the spacer
blocks and nail girts into place using 30d - 4½"
ring shank nails.
rd
eboa
Grad
Ring Shank Nails
Galvanized for Long Life
10d 3" Galvanized
30d 4½" Galvanized
60d 6" Oil Quenched
75/lb.
29/lb.
21/lb.
Ring shanks for holding power.
Hardened shank for easy
application.
Headers on Sidewalls for
Openings or Overhead
Doors
Header
Depth
Headers are to be installed under the truss for direct
bearing.
Building
Height
Measure from the bottom of the grade board up each
post to the height of your wall, put a mark.
Measure from the previous mark down the post, the
depth of the header and place another mark. This will
be your header bearing location.
See pages 16-17 for Sliding door header information.
Notch jamb posts for headers greater than 2-ply,
or as needed. Install stub columns between plys at
each truss to ply location.
Tip: Dimensional lumber is 1½" thick. LVL headers
are 1¾" thick. Adjust header notches as needed.
Stub
Column
Truss
Header
2 Ply
Header
3 Ply
Header
4 Ply
Header
11
Truss Location
Measuring from the bottom of the grade board up
each post, the height of your wall, put a mark. This
is where your truss bearing will be located.
For example: If your wall height is 10' tall, the
measurement from the bottom of your grade board
to the bottom of the truss would be 10' (120").
Warning: If you are planning to have a concrete
floor now or in the future make sure the material list
has been adjusted properly for this particular feature.
To maintain the interior clearance from the top of the
finished floor to the bottom chord of the truss, the
thickness of the slab will have to be added on to the
height of the building.
Mark for Truss
Bearing
Sidewall
Height
Bottom of Gradeboard
Solid Posts
Warning: Do not notch corner posts or end wall posts.
Double check your measurements from bottom of
grade board to the bottom of truss notch. It should
be the same as the sidewall height.
1½"
Use a square to mark post for notching.
Notch Posts 1½" for single ply truss so entire truss
can rest on notch.
Laminated Columns
The truss will sit in the saddle of the laminated
column. The bearing block will need to be cut to
the proper length and secured to column to bring the
truss bearing height equal to the building’s wall height.
Truss
Saddle
Truss to Post
connection
Bearing
Block
- Field cut
to proper
length
12
Bearing Block
Secured to
column with
30d- 4½" ring
shank nails.
Raising Trusses
Before raising trusses, mark the top edge of the truss for the
proper purlin spacing, starting at the peak of the truss and
move towards the eave. Place the mark for the bottom
edge of the peak purlin. See diagram.
Note: Purlins will not exceed 24" O.C. for
agricultural buildings. For engineered
buildings please refer to
Engineered Prints.
Raising the End Frames
At one end of the building, Eave
raise an end frame on the
outside of the end wall posts.
The bottom edge of the truss
must align with the building
height you marked on the
post. The heel of the end
frame should extend 1½"
past the outside edge of the
post. Nail the end frame to
the corner post first, checking to be sure the corner post
and endwall posts are plumb.
Finish nailing the end frame
to the endwall posts at each
frame to post location.
24"
24"
24"
24"
1½"
Endframe
Building
Height
Use 30d - 4½" ring shank
nails to attach end frame
to posts.
Endframe
Note: Endwall posts shall be cut off just above top
chord. Endwall Laminated columns are 3' nail free
at the top for ease of cutting and shall be nailed
together at jobsite after cut has been made.
Raising the main trusses
Truss will rest directly on top of the notch in the
post. Fasten starter purlins at approximately 8'
apart using 60d - 6" ring shank nails to hold them in
place. Starter purlins can be premarked for proper
spacing. Use 30d - 4½" ring shank nails to attach
trusses to posts.
Peak Dimension
6" with 13" Ridgecap
8" with 20" Ridgecap
10" with RidgeLite
Starter
Purlin
Hang Truss
past post 1½".
Truss
Bearing
Mark
13
Roof Purlins
Peak Purlins Butted Together
Using 60d - 6” ring shank nails, attach
purlins to trusses.
For buildings with side wall overhangs
first consult the side wall overhang
details on page 28.
Nail all other purlins into place where you
put the marks on the top edges of the
trusses.
Peak purlins and edge purlins should be
butted together, all the other roof purlins
should be overlapped and nailed together
at the trusses a minimum of 6".
6"
6"
Inside Purlins are Overlapped-Nail together
Edge
Purlin
For buildings with a sidewall overhang, do
not install the edge purlin, and refer to
sidewall overhang details on page 28.
Edge purlins can be nailed to the sidewall
posts and must be in line with roof purlins.
Applying Braces
Knee Braces
After all trusses are raised and purlins are in place, use a mason line to see if both sidewalls are
straight and plumb. After the wall is straight, secure 2×6 knee braces to posts using 30d - 4½"
ring shank nails and the knee brace to truss using 10d - 3" ring shank nails.
Knee
Building Brace Brace
Height Depth Length
8'1' 6"6'
9'1' 6"6'
10'
2' 0"
6'
11'
2' 0"
6'
12'
3' 0"
8'
13'
3' 0"
8'
14'4' 0"10'
15'4' 0"10'
16'4' 0"10'
17'4' 0"10'
18'4' 0"10'
19'4' 0"10'
20'4' 0"10'
14
Note: Buildings with
laminated columns,
using a center notch,
require 2 ply 2x6
knee braces.
Braces Secured
to Top Chord
Braces Secured
to Bottom Chord
2×6 Knee Brace
Braces Secured
to Column
3 Ply Laminated
Column
Knee Brace
Depth
Braces
Secured
to Post
Applying Braces
Continued
Corner Post
Corner Braces
The 2×6 corner braces are applied from
the bottom of the first post to the top of the
corner post.
2×6 Corner
Braces
Sidewall
Post
Do this to all corners. Use 10d - 3" ring
shank nails to secure brace at each girt
to brace location.
Wind Braces
Endwall Post
These 2×4 braces are installed under the
roof purlins, angled from the first pole on
the sidewall to the end trusses at a point
approximately 2' from the peak.
After nailing both ends of the wind brace,
nail to each purlin using 60d - 6" ring shank
nails.
Buildings wider than 40' will require 2 or
more bays of wind bracing.
End Frame
2×4 Wind
Brace
Sidewall
Post
Lateral Braces
These 2×4 braces are installed with 60d 6" ring shank nails to the tops of the bottom
chords, approximately 10' on center across
the bottom chords and designated webs of
the trusses.
Lateral braces are to be placed at
stamped locations on the truss. See the
truss specification sheets for more
information.
2×4 Lateral
Brace
Truss Bottom
Chord
15
Endwall and Sidewall Sliding Door Framing
2×8 Bottom Chord
of End Frame
Chalkline
5½" up
Chalkline
5½" up
2×12 Door
Track Support
Header
Jamb Posts
with 2×4 door
jambs cut to fit
and secured
between girts
Jamb Posts
with 2×4 door
jambs cut to fit
and secured
between girts
Door opening
Door opening
Endwall
For Endwall: Use the 2×8 bottom chord of the
end frame as the header for the door
Sidewall
For Sidewall: A 1 ply 2×12 door track support
board is placed to the side in which the door
opens.
On sidewall and/or endwall measure 5½" up from the bottom of the
header at each jamb post.
Truss
Snap a chalk line from mark to mark across the header and/or 2×12.
Track Board
Support
2×6 track board is placed so the top edge is flush with the chalk line,
starting from the center of post jamb to center of the other post jamb,
secured with 10d 3" nails.
Chalkline
Jamb
Post
2×4 track board is placed so the top of a 2×4 is flush with the line
extending from the center of the post jamb to end of the door in its
open position secured with 10d 3" nails.
Note: For sliding doors on end walls the 2×4 track board shall extend
from end to end.
Note: Track board shall stop 45⁄16" from the corner to allow for corner
trim.
5½"
Corner
Post
Track Board
Support Chalkline
2×4 door jambs are cut to fit between girt rows and secured flush to
the inside face of the post at the door opening secured with 10d 3" nails.
Track
Board
End
Truss
5½"
45⁄16"
2×4 treated door runner, for Kwik Frame doors only, is placed so the bottom of
the door runner is flush with the bottom
of the grade board to the side which the
door is to open. Door track is screwed
2×8 Bottom Chord or
to the top of the 2×4/2×6 track boards.
2×12
Track Board Suppport
The top of the door runner is flush with
the steel rise. The door track should start
at
2×4 Track Board 2×6 Track
the jamb post and run a distance equal to
Board
¾ of the door opening on each side of the
jamb post.
Jamb Door
16
Post Opening
Sliding Door Framing
Track board
support
2×4 Stop
Block
¼ Door
Width
2×
4T
rac
Do
kB
or
Door Track
Cover
¾ Door
Width
Tra
c
k
Track
Board
Support
oa
rd
Headers
¼ Door
Width
To
O
2×4/2×6
Track
Board
Chalkline
pe
nD
¾ Door
Width
2×
6T
rac
2×4 Stop
Block
oo
r
Track
Do
or
kB
oa
rd
5½"
Sh
ow
nC
Track cover
support bracket
¼ Door
Width
los
ed
2×4 Door Jamb
2×4 stop blocks are placed at the ends of the door track to help keep
the door from sliding off the track.
Track Cover Support Brackets are nailed to the top of the track board
to secure the track cover where there is no sliding door track.
Track Cover is placed on top of the door track and track
brackets and nailed on the vertical lip above the door track.
Sliding
Door Track
Optional Special Order Track board trims are available to cover
any exposed wood on a sliding door. See page 19.
Post
Track
Track Board Cover
Support
Support
Bracket
2×4 Stop Post
Block
Split Slider on Side Wall
Same steps as listed above except place
a 2×12 on each side of the door opening.
Truss
Door
Jamb Trim
Door
Jamb
3-1/2"
1-1/2"
1-1/2"
L-6
Fascia
1-1/2"
17
Sliding Door Accessories
STEEL DOOR
CENTER GUIDE
• Installed back to back. Tabloc
• Used on all steel frame doors.
• Stops door in closed position.
• 2 required per door, 2 per sku
Steel
SINGLE
DOOR STOP
• Used on a steel frame sliding door.
• Meets bottom door lateral in open and closed
positions holding door firmly against the building.
SLIDING DOOR
JAMB STOP
• Stops and holds all steel frame sliding
doors in both open and closed positions.
Kwik Frame Wood
WOOD DOOR
CENTER GUIDE
• Floor mounted, adjustable for
single and double sliding doors.
• Heavy duty shock resistant design.
STAY ROLLER
• Slots in frame provide adjustment for
holding sliding doors.
• Extra-Heavy wheel.
Universal
CENTER
LATCH
• Holds split sliding doors tightly secure.
HEAVY DUTY
DOOR HANDLE
• Galvanized for long life.
• 6" Heavy duty handle.
SLIDING
DOOR LATCH
• Cam action latch holds door firmly
against the jamb.
• Includes 7" hook, and latch.
ADJUSTABLE
DOOR STOP
• Adjustable for door thickness 2½" to 3¹/8".
• Used on single or split sliding doors.
DOOR
TRACK
18
• 16 Gauge galvanized steel with mounting/flashing
brackets for mounting on 2×6 track board.
2¼" 1¾"
• Used for doors weighing up to 400 lbs. 8'-16' in 2'
increments; Stock/SO
Optional Sliding Door Trim
single
trackboard
Over Door
trackboard
3-7/8"
2-1/2"
1-1/4"
1"
2"
3-1/8"
TRACK
COVER
SUPPORT
BRACKET
DOUBLE
trackboard
3"
3"
sLIDing DOOR
track COVER
2"
double track
bracket
5¾"
1"
¾"
2-3/8"
⁄16"
7
Holes
3-1/2"
135˚
2½"
2-1/2"
Track
41⁄8"
Track
Support
Track
Board
Support
5/8"
Track Board
double track
cover
2" 1-1/2"
2¾"
115 ⁄16"
145º
7-3/4"
145º
3/4"
door
laterals
2¼" Minimum
3¼" Maximum
2-1/2"
135º
2-1/4"
Track Cover Support
19
Sliding Door Components
Door Laterals Spacing of
Height Required Laterals
7'
4
27"
8'
4
32"
9'
4
36"
10'
5
30"
11'
5
32"
12'
5
36"
13'
6
30"
14'
6
34"
15'
6
36"
16'
7
32"
17'
7
34"
18'
8
30''
19'
97
28"
20'
98
30"
1
We recommend Tab-Loc
stiffeners3 for 16' wide or tall
2 8 rigidity. 3
for added
• Fast, simple, strong8
1
assembly
2
• Tab-Loc design
• Galvanized for long life
Door
Track
2×6
Track
Cover
Trolley
Hanger
steel
door
lateral
steel
door
VERTICAl
7
1
5 8
8
2
1
2 38
3
4
1378
1
End view
of door at
bottom.
Guide
Rail
8
1
1 2
2
Steel Door
Laterals
2
Steel Door
Verticals
guide
Rail
Door Widths Brackets
3' up to 6'
2
6' up to 16'
3
16' up to 20'4.
4
2×6 Treated or
Larger
guide Rail
bracket
Steel door verticals are part of the Tab-Loc sliding door system.
Used with door laterals to make sliding doors. Galvanized for
long life, tab system makes assembly a snap.
STAP
TROLLEY
HANGERS
• Can be used on wood frame
sliding doors.
• Threaded adjustment vertically.
• Slotted adjustment laterally.
• Designed for horizontal
mounting to the door.
5
8
1 34
Steel Door
Lateral
Guide Rail Bracket
20
2×8 or
Larger
STEEL
BEARING
TROLLEY
HANGERS
• Steel roller bearing for
long life.
• Can be used on wood or
steel frame sliding doors.
• Threaded adjustment
both vertically & laterally.
1
Tab-Loc Sliding Door Assembly
1. Important! Check opening size prior to assembling. If vertical members need to be shortened,
it must be done at this time. Verticals may be shortened to almost any desired length.
2. Select level assembly area with clearance to turn door and lay out members.
3. Align the vertical tabs with the lateral member cutouts keeping
the open channel of door laterals towards bottom of door.
4. With laterals and verticals in place, bend tabs loosely.
5. After assembling loosely, bend tabs to tight position, working
from center lateral toward top and bottom of door.
6. Square door frame.
7. Pry tab in final lock position
with a screwdriver. This aligns all
members and holds frame square.
8. Turn door frame over and repeat
Step 4
Step 5
Step 7
steps 4 - 7.
9. After completely assembling door frame, fasten panels to frame.
Installation of Trolley Hangers
Bottom Chord
of End Frame
(For endwall
applications)
2×12 Header
(For sidewall
applications)
• Trolley hangers to be located at the top of the door.
• For placement of the trolleys divide the door width by 4
and this will equal the trolley inset from each side of the
door.
• Drill a 9⁄16" hole in the top of the top steel door lateral at
the trolley inset if it falls where there is no predrilled hole.
• Insert trolley drop bolt through 9⁄16" hole in top lateral.
• Adjust flange nut to provide 1" between top door lateral
and bottom of the door track.
• Hang door - make vertical adjustments with flange nut and
tighten lock nut.
• To adjust door in and out, turn the lateral adjustment bolt
with a wrench to obtain desired clearance.
DoorTrack
2×6 Track Board
Trolley Hanger
Top Steel Lateral
Flange Nut
Lock Nut
Installation of Guide Rail Brackets
Attach guide rail brackets to guide rail loosely with 3⁄8" × ¾" bolts. One bracket and one bolt is
furnished for each hole in guide rail. Align end of guide rail with inside of door opening.
Important! To prevent the wind from lifting doors away from the building, fasten guide rail
brackets to the gradeboard with 5⁄16" carriage bolts or 3⁄8" lags. Do not use Nails. Hold the
bottom of guide rail approximately 1¼" below the bottom of the door.
Make adjustments so doors operate properly. Tighten
all fasteners to secure brackets and guide rail in its
final position.
Tips: Continuous guide rail engages bottom lateral
of door and guides the door along building keeping it
secure and away from the siding. Slotted holes in
guide rail bracket allow lateral and vertical adjustments.
To adjust door in and out, turn the lateral adjustment
bolt with wrench to obtain desired clearance.
Steel
Door
Vertical
End view of door
at bottom
Steel
Door
Lateral
Guide Rail
Guide Rail Bracket
Grade
Board
Grade
21
Kwik Frame Sliding Door Assembly
KWIK
FRAME
DOUBLE
COUPLE
1½"
1½"
2×4 or 2×6
Lateral
2×4 or 2×6
Lateral
1¾"
• Serves as the side frames for sliding doors. • Eliminates gap between split sliding doors.
• Designed as a receiver for 2 × material.
• Built in Astragal to seal a double/split door system.
• Built in J-Trim for self-flashing.
• Designed as a receiver for 2 × material.
• Built in J-Trim for self-flashing.
Use a standard 2" × 6" for the top girt and a treated
Trolley Inset
Trolley Inset
2" × 6" for the bottom girt. Cut those 6" longer than
2×6 Top Girt
the door opening. Remaining door girts should be
cut ½" shorter than top and bottom girts.
2×6 Door Girt
Lay Kwik frame verticals on a flat surface and nail
top and bottom girts horizontally to frames. The
bottom girt should extend 2" below the end of the
Kwik frame. Girts should be spaced the same as the
other sidewall girts, measuring from the top down.
2×6 Door Girt
Installation of trolley hangers.
2×6 Door Girt
• For placement of the trolleys divide the
door width by 4 and add 3". This will equal
2×6 Treated Girt Bottom
the trolley inset from each side of the door.
9
• Drill a ⁄16" hole in the top of the 2" × 6" top
girt for the trolley inset.
• Insert trolley drop bolt through 9⁄16" hole in top door girt.
Bottom Chord
of End Frame
(For endwall
applications)
2×12 Header
(For sidewall
applications)
Door
Track
2×6 Track Board
Trolley Hanger
Lateral Adjustment Bolt
2×6 Top Girt
Flange Nut
Lock Nut
22
• Adjust flange nut to provide 1" space between top girt on
the door and bottom of door track.
• Hanging the door - make vertical adjustments with flange
nut and tighten lock nut.
• To adjust door in and out, turn the lateral adjustment bolt
with a wrench to obtain desired clearance.
Hang the door in the track and square
with the door opening. Lift door up
1" so weight is taken off the hangers.
Nail temporarily on bottom corners
making sure the door is plumb.
Apply door steel
keeping each sheet
flush with the top girt.
After all steel is applied,
remove temporary nails
from bottom corners. Temporary 1"
Nail
Rise
2"
Overhead Door Framing
Overhead Door on a Sidewall
Overhead door 2×6 frame
outs are to be placed so
the bottom of the frame
outs to the top of the
finished floor is the height
required for the door.
Door jambs - Outside
jamb is typically a 2×4.
Inside jamb is typically a
2×4 or 2×6 depending on
the door size. See trim
detail for more
information.
Pro-Rib
Steel Panel
Roof Purlin
Roof Purlin
Truss
Edge Purlin
Eave Trim
Treated Post
Pro-Rib
Steel Panel
2 Ply Door Header
Door Path
Torsion Spring
2 Ply Door
Frame-Out
12" Minimum
SIDEWALL
J-Trim
L-8 Trim
l-8 fascia
l-8 Door
8-1/4"
Weather
Seal
Roller
Overhead
Door
Pin and
Mounting
Bracket
HEM TRIM
Jamb Post
1"
1/2"
1/4"
1-1/2"
Door Track
Tip: For best results the L-8 is installed before the wall steel.
The J-Trim and Hem Trim are installed after the steel is up.
Do not fasten the steel panels around the opening until the
J-Trim and Hem Trim are in place.
If the door is located on the
sidewall and the height of the
door is 1’ less than the sidewall
height, then the header will be
used as the nailing surface of the
trim instead of the 2×6 headers.
2-1/2"
Door Path
Treated Post
End Frame
Door Mounting
Torsion Spring Board
Pro-Rib
Steel Panel
2 Ply Door
Frame-Out
12" Minimum
Warning: For buildings with concrete floors the height
of the opening needs to be adjusted to accommodate
the thickness of the concrete floor and the turning
radius of an overhead door.
Note: 2×6 door mounting board to be adjusted as
necessary for the type of overhead door selected.
J-Trim
Roller
Pin and
Mounting
Bracket
L-8 Trim
Weather
Seal
ENDWALL
Overhead
Door
Door Track
23
Bookshelf Post Frame Construction
Follow the same steps for Traditional
Post Frame Construction from Page
6 to Page 7; Except, the sidewall
posts DO NOT require 1½" between
the post and the mason line when
plumbing the posts.
Install Grade Board
Check for
plumb with level
on two sides.
Endwall
Corner 1½"
Post
Corner
Post
1½"
1. Locate the corner post with the highest grade.
2. Place a nail in the post at the grade at the
corner post on the sidewall and on the
outside of the end wall to set the grade
of the building.
3. Use a line level or transit to establish a level line
where the nails are located.
Sidewall
Bookshelf
Gradeboard
to be Installed
between posts
4. Install grade board keeping the bottom of the
gradeboard on top of the nails securing with 30d
- 4½" ring shank nails at each post location.
Toe-nail when on sidewall.
rd
eboa
Grad
5. Once all the grade boards are in place, remove
grade nails.
Note: Treated gradeboard may require plastic flashing.
For Bookshelf Girt styled building, sidewall grade boards are placed between the columns and
end wall grade boards are placed on the outside of the columns.
Sidewall
Post
Pro-Rib
Steel
Panel
Treated
Grade Board
24
2x6 Treated
Bookshelf Girt
Treated Interior
Grade Board
BOOKSHELF GIRT AND
GRADE BOARD ON
SIDEWALL APPLICATION
Girt
Pro-Rib
Steel
Panel
Treated
Grade Board
Sidewall
Post
2x6 Treated
Bookshelf Girt
Treated Interior
Grade Board
BOOKSHELF GIRT AND
GRADE BOARD ON
END WALL APPLICATION
Bookshelf Girts
Note: Make any adjustments as necessary to girts to accommodate special options such as
eavelite and wainscot panels. See page 41 for details.
Cut 2 spacer blocks 22½"
in length. The Girt chart shows
how many rows of girts are
needed depending on your
wall height.
2×6Girts
Wall # Rows
Height of Girts
7' 3
8' 3
9' 4
Rest the spacer blocks on the
10' 4
grade board and temporarily tack 11' 5
into place between the posts.
12' 5
Rest a girt on top of the spacer 13' 6
block and toenail girts into place 14' 6
using 30d - 4½" ring shank nails. 15' 7
16' 7
Tip: Keep posts plumb while
17' 8
installing girts.
18' 8
19' 9
20' 9
2nd Row of
Sidewall Girts
22½"
Space
22½"
Space
Remove the spacer block above the grade board
and place spacer blocks on top of the first row of
girts, and nail second row of girts into place on both
sidewalls and end walls. Repeat.
Special Note: If you have a sidewall overhang: The
overhang soffit nailer is not installed at the same
time as the girts and should be installed when the
overhangs are being framed. See page 28. Allow
room for jamb material when placing girts on a jamb
post. See door framing details pages 16-17. Before
installing the last girt set all headers.
d
boar
e
Grad
rd
G
boa
rade
1st Row of
Sidewall Girts
ow of
2nd R Girts
all
Sidew
1st Row of
Sidewall Girts
Header
Bookshelf buildings’ sidewall headers
get notched into columns, and are
flush with the inside and outside face.
25
Bookshelf Truss Placement
Truss Location
Field cut exterior plies of
laminated column 3" above
top of truss. This will allow
nailing area for edge purlin
or overhang jack.
Measuring from the bottom of the grade board
up each post, the height of your wall, put a mark.
This is where your truss bearing will be located.
For example: If your wall height is 10' tall, the
measurement from the bottom of your grade board
to the bottom of the truss would be 10' (120").
Warning: If you are planning to have a concrete
floor now or in the future make sure the material
list has been adjusted properly for this particular
feature. To maintain the interior clearance from
the top of the finished floor to the bottom chord of
the truss, the thickness of the slab will have to be
added on to the height of the building.
Truss
Truss placed
into column
Bearing Block
- Field cut to
proper length
Bearing Block
secured to column
with 30d-4½" ring
shank nails
Post Notch
End
Truss
Warning: Do not notch corner posts or
endwall posts.
Solid Posts - Double check your
measurements from bottom of grade
board to the bottom of truss notch. It
should be the same as the sidewall height.
Use a square to mark post for notching.
Trusses will sit in notch and may not
extend beyond post.
Laminated Columns
The truss will sit in the saddle of the
laminated column. The bearing block
will need to be cut to the proper length
and secured to column to bring the truss
bearing height equal to the buildings wall
height.
26
Mark
truss
bearing
with
square
Hang
truss flush
with post
Corner
Post
Building
Height
Building
height
measured
d
r
eboa from bottom of gradeboard
Grad
to bottom of truss
Bookshelf Trusses, Purlins, and Braces
Raising Trusses
Before raising trusses, mark the top edge of the truss for
the proper purlin spacing, starting at the peak of the truss
and move towards the eave. Place the mark for the bottom
edge of the peak purlin. See diagram.
Note: Purlins will not exceed 24" O.C. for
agricultural buildings. For engineered
buildings please refer
to Engineered Prints.
Raising the End Frames
24"
24"
At one end of the building,
24"
Eave
24"
raise an end frame on the
outside of the end wall posts. The bottom edge of the truss must align with the
building height you marked on the post. The heel of the end frame should be
flush with the outside edge of the post. Nail the end frame to the corner post
first, checking to be sure the corner post and endwall posts are plumb. Finish
nailing the end frame to the endwall posts at each frame to post location.
Peak Dimension
6" with 13" Ridgecap
8" with 20" Ridgecap
10" with RidgeLite
Use 30d - 4½" ring shank nails to attach end frame to posts.
Edge Purlin Placement Corner Brace
INSTALL OVERHANG JACKS FIRST. SEE
Placement
PAGE 28. Notch posts if necessary, but do
not notch truss. Secure edge purlins on top of
trusses and flush with outside of posts.
End
Truss
Edge
Purlin
Corner braces are notched into the girts on
bookshelf buildings.
End Frame
Truss
Corner 2×6 Corner brace
Post
secured at each end
and each brace to girt
Sidewall
Post
Edge purlins to be
secured on top of
truss and flush with
outside of post.
Corner
Post
Note: Number of wall girts on this
detail may not apply to your building.
Corner brace shall extend from grade
board at first sidewall post to top
corner post at truss.
27
Sidewall Overhang
Note: Don’t install edge purlins at this
time.
First install overhang jacks on your
end frames. The distance of the
overhang is measured from the
outside edge of the girt less 1½"
to the end of the overhang jack.
With your jacks on your end frames,
run a mason line from end overhang
jack to end overhang jack along the
sidewall. Then install overhang jacks
on trusses, making sure the ends of
overhang jacks are flush with mason
line. When all of your jacks are in
place install your 2×4 soffit nailer and
fascia board.
Fascia
Inside Board
Closure
Strip
Roof Purlin
Roof Steel
Overhang Jack
Truss
Soffit
Panel
Fascia
Trim
Overhang
length less
1½"
Truss
Sidewall Steel
Sidewall Post
Soffit
Small J-Trim with Frieze
Sidewall
Post
2x4 Soffit Nailer
Sidewall Steel
Bookshelf
Sidewall Overhang
1" 1/4"
7/16"
Small
Truss
J-Trim with Frieze
Soffit
1"
2-13/16"
3/4"
Soffit
Small J-Trim with Frieze
2x4 Soffit Nailer
Sidewall Steel
Endwall Overhang
Note: Do not notch truss to install soffit nailer.
Soffit nailer to be secured between trusses.
For endwall overhang, extend the purlins past end frame, 1½" less than the desired overhang.
Attach fascia board. Install small J-trim with frieze as shown. Install boxed end fascia after
installing roof steel. Install the soffit.
boxed
end
fascia
Roof Steel
7/8"
1-3/4"
Roof Purlin
1-1/2" 1-1/2"1-1/2"
4-1/2"
5-1/2"
3-1/2"
7/8"
28
Overhang length
less 1½"
Truss End
Frame
Corner
Post
Soffit
Small J-Trim
with Frieze
Endwall Steel
2×4
Fascia
Board
Boxed
End
Fascia
Trims
CORNER
& GABLE
TRIM
PREMIUM
GABLE TRIM
Roof Steel
Eave Trim
Corner Sidewall Steel
Trim
1
2
1
Roof Steel
10
Gable
Trim
150°
1
2
1
3
4
Eave Trim
2-1/4"
Roof Steel
2"
Gable
Trim
5-1/8"
Premium
Gable
Trim
EAVE
TRIM
Eave Trim
121
4
3
4
Corner
Trim
Sidewall Steel
5-1/8"
Corner
Trim
l-4 fascia
7/16"
4-1/4"
1/4"
1"
3/4"
Sidewall Steel
13/16"
frieze
Starter
1"
5/8"
1/4"
1-1/2"
SOFFIT PANELS
FASCIA CAP
5/8"
4"
solid
• Covers 2x4 Fascia
board on Eave
• Supports Soffit
Precut
Sizes
1/2"
1"
Gives quick, clean, easy cut
vented
1¼" Soffit
Nails
Fascia
Trim
All Colors Available
Steel Soffit
Soffit Nail Panel
Frieze Starter
soffit
shear
panel
shear
155-8659
155-8630
29
Post Frame Windows
Install window unit before steel
is applied. For best results, the
side of the window should be
located between the ribs of the
steel.
Frame out openings as shown.
For traditional window framing,
cut out girts between vertical
2×4’s last.
Insert the window into the
frame-out and fasten it in
place from the outside.
TOP VIEW
Traditional Window Framing
Treated Post
FRONT VIEW
Vertical Nailer
Girt
Horizontal Nailers
Vertical Nailer
Girt
Rough
Opening
Rough Opening
Girt
2×4 Spacer Blocks
Girt
TOP VIEW
FRONT VIEW
Bookshelf Window Framing
Treated Posts
2×6 Horizontal Jamb
Rough
Opening
Rough Opening
2×6 Bookshelf
Girt
2×6 Bookshelf
Girt
2×6 Bookshelf
Girts
2×6 Uprights
2×6 Treated
Bookshelf Girt
Gradeboard
2×6 Uprights
NOTE: Windows with built in J Channel are
flashed in white or brown. Windows with no
J flashing allow you to order color matched
J-Trim to flash around window.
• Built in “J” Channel on screen units.
• Frame and Sash are completely weather
stripped with woven pile.
• A durable baked enamel finish is standard,
and is available in white or brown.
• Shipped ready to install.
• Center mullion for a sturdier window.
• Nylon track for an easy sliding sash.
30
Built in “J” channel
Service Doors
Door units should be installed
before the steel is applied. For
best results, the side of the
door should be located between the ribs of the steel.
1.Nail (2) 2×4 vertical nailer
onto the inside of the girts
(R.O. width +3").
2.Nail a 2×4 horizontal nailer
onto the outside of the vertical
nailer (R.O. height+1½").
3.Cut out girts between vertical nailer.
4.Nail a 2×4 horizontal jamb
to the bottom of the horizontal
nailer.
5.Nail 2×4 vertical jambs to
insides of the vertical nailer.
6.Add 2×4 spacer blocks, cut
to fit, between girts.
Insert the door into the frameout and fasten it in place from
the outside.
TOP VIEW
FRONT VIEW
Traditional Door Framing
Treated Post
Vertical Nailer
Horizontal Nailer
Vertical Nailer
Rough Opening
Girt
Rough
Opening
Girt
2×4 Spacer Blocks
2×4 Vertical Jamb
* Notch as necessary
TOP VIEW
FRONT VIEW
Bookshelf Door Framing
Treated Posts
2×6 Horizontal Jamb
Rough Opening
2×6 Bookshelf
Girt
Rough
Opening
2×6 Bookshelf
Girt
2×6 Bookshelf
Girts
Treated
Bookshelf Girt
2×6 Vertical
Jambs
Gradeboard
2×6 Vertical Jamb
Double
Angle
Trim
* Notch as necessary
DRIP
CAP
2"
1/2"
Window Unit
2-1/2"
1/4"
Window Unit
1-1/2"
1-1/4"
31
Service Doors - Continued
Prehung in jamb
Low maintenance
Baked on enamel finish
R-10 insulation factor
Self flash J-trim side panel
Ease of installation
Universal swing
Inswing or outswing
Attractive textured door panel
Bored for lockset - lockset not included
Custom door sizes available special order.
Post Frame Service Door
36"×80" RO 381⁄16"×8015 ⁄16"
J-Trim
1"
Soffit
Panel
Top Girt
1"
1-3/4"
Sidewall
Steel
Baked on enamel finish
R-16 insulation factor
Heavy duty 16 gauge
galvanized steel frame jambs
24 gauge smooth steel panels
Code approved ½" low profile threshold
Thermopane nine-lite window
Bored for lockset - lockset not included
Custom door sizes available special order
White or brown
blank
White or brown
with 22"×36" lite
Commercial Grade Service Door
36"×80" RO 405 ⁄16"×811⁄8"
HEM Trim
Jamb Post
1"
1/2"
2-1/2"
32
White blank
White 9 lite
with crossbuck
2x4 Vertical Jamb
Service Doors - Continued
NOTE: If 2x4 framing is not followed or the door is not installed for inswing application, additional trim may be required.
www.midwestmanufacturing.com
Hinge Reversing Procedure for
Prehung 4-Way Doors with Factory Installed Window
1.
1. Place the door on saw horses
with the hinge knuckles up.
2.
2. After removing the
retaining clip and frame
spacers, open the door.
3.
3. Remove the nine hinge screw
from the door panel.
4.
4. Lift and turn the panel end for
end. Do not move the frame.
5.
5. Flip the panel over to
re-attach the hinges.
6.
6. Install the nine hinge screw
which were removed in step 3.
7.
8. Close the door panel back
into the frame and replace
frame spacers.
Install the parting stop at the
top of the door frame. Install
the sweep at the bottom
of the door panel.
NOTE: Doors without lites may be rotated and turned to achieve the desired swing without removing the frame.
33
Dutch Doors
Dutch Doors are much heavier than typical service doors so 4x6 posts or larger are required.
TOP VIEW
FRONT VIEW
Traditional Dutch Door Framing
Treated Post
Vertical Posts
Horizontal Nailer
Vertical Posts
Rough Opening
Girt
Rough
Opening
Girt
2×4 Spacer Blocks
Dutch Door RO 49¼" × 87 3 ⁄8"
Step 1
Open the boxes and place the
door halves on the floor wih
the fronts facing up. Place the
hinges over the holes in the
door halves. Drill through the
wood using the holes in the
hinge side as guides. Insert
bolts into the holes. Make sure
that the hinges are level and
then fasten using a washer
and nut.
Step 2
Place the bottom half of the
door into the door jamb. Make
sure the door is level and
there is a ½" gap from the
bottom of the door to the floor.
When the door is level, place
the hinges on the door jamb.
Use the holes on the hinges
as a guide for pre-drilling.
After pre-drilling the holes
insert the screws and fasten.
Step 3
Place the top half of the door
on top of the lower half. Make
sure the door is level and ¼"
above the bottom half of the
door. When the top half is in
place, put the hinges on the
door jamb as a guide for predrilling. When the holes are
completed insert the screws
and fasten.
Door Jamb
Predrill holes and insert screws
Door Jamb
Predrill holes and
insert screws
¼"
Predrill holes and insert screws
½"
34
Dutch Door with Crossbuck156-8282
Optional Dutch Door Jamb Frame 156-8284
Dutch Doors - Continued
TOP VIEW
FRONT VIEW
Bookshelf Dutch Door Framing
Horizontal Jamb
Treated Posts
Rough Opening
2×6 Bookshelf
Girt
2×6 Bookshelf
Girt
Rough
Opening
2×6 Bookshelf
Girts
Vertical
Posts
Treated
Bookshelf Girt
Gradeboard
Vertical Posts
Step 4
Place the astragal between
the two halves of the door
with the double sided edge
to the front. Keep it flush with
the front of the bottom half of
the door. Hold it in place and
open the top half of the door.
Pre-drill holes and fasten it in
place.
Step 5
Place the barn latch on the
bottom door as shown. Use
the latch holes for a guide
when pre-drilling the holes for
the latch. Make sure the latch
is level when fastening. Use
the supplied plastic caps to
plug the remaining holes in
the door.
Step 6
Place the bolt latch on the
back of the door. Place the
receiving end on the bottom
half of the door. Make sure
that the latch is level and the
crack between the door halves
lines up with the separation of
the latch. Use the holes of the
latch as guides for pre-drilling
theView
holesof
and
fasten
in place.
Back
of the
Door
Door Latch
Bolt Latch
Backside of the door
Top Half
Astragal
Bottom Half
16 gauge one piece perimeter
door with crossbuck.
Available in all colors.
Backer panels available in
all colors.
Top Half
Astragal
Bottom Half
Bolt
Latch
35
Back side
of door
Storing, Handling, and Cutting Steel Panels
Storing
• Specifically check your quantities, colors, and lengths
• All materials should be used as soon as possible
• Steel bundles should be stored indoors with enough of a slope to allow
any moisture from condensation to drain out of the bundle
• Bare galvanized panels should be installed immediately and not be stored outside
• Condensation or rain water trapped on bare galvanized panels can form a wet
storage stain, also known as white rust.
Handling
• Do not slide steel panels across each other.
• To properly lift a panel from the bundle place hands underneath the
under lap side of the panel and lift up and away from the bundle.
• Lifting steel onto roof or building grab the panel
in the flat of the panel and not in the rib.
• Bending steel is best done with a hand seamer
or a brake press.
Scratches
• A scratch in the panel may only cause rust
if it is deep enough to cut through the paint
and zinc coat.
• Color-matched touch-up and spray can paint
is available if you happen to scratch a panel.
• Touch-up paint is color matched to all Pro-Rib®
• Perfect for scratches and nicks
• Beveled brush great for tiny spots or thin lines.
• Quarts and gallons available for color matching
other components of your building.
• 25 colors: 1 oz 156-7869 Qt 156-7872 Gal 156-7885
Touch-Up
Paint
Color Matched
Spray can
Cutting Panels
Panel
Shears
Tin
Snips
Nibbler
Shears
Cutting steel is best done with a panel shear, tin snips, nibblers, or panel shears.
Cut edge does not require paint touch up.
Do not use a circular saw to cut steel panels.
36
Steel Panel Installation:
Proper lapping of Steel Underseat
Proper
Overseat
Proper lapping of steel panel is very important in the panel’s ability to prevent leaking.
The anti-syphon drain channel must be clear of debris and obstructons for the panel’s ability
to minimize the potential of capillary action of water from getting under the steel panel.
Undertight
Proper Fastener Tightness
Proper
Overtight
Fastener tightness is critical in the longevity of the fastener’s ability to help prevent leaks and
structural load carrying capacity. Over-torquing of screws will reduce the screw’s withdrawal
capacity, regardless of the construction materials involved. Under-torquing of screws will
increase the potential of roof leaks.
Fastener location is critical for installers to minimize the potential of oil canning, dimples, and
other appearance related issues.
Note: Both professional and first time installers have fewer problems with oil canning, dimples,
and other appearance related fastener seating problems if they install them on top of the rib.
Fastener Specifications:
Roof: Nails must be installed on top of the rib. Screws can be installed
on top of the rib or in the flat surface of the panel between the ribs.
Wall: Nails or screws can be installed on top of the rib or in the flat surface between ribs.
Nailing of Steel Panels
Roof Sheets
Top & Bottom of wall sheets
Wall sheets
-Use 2½" E-Z Seal nails installed on top of the rib.
-Use 1½" Neoprene nails installed in the flat surface
-Use 2½" E-Z Seal nails installed on top of the rib
Overlap
Screwing of Steel Panels
Roof Sheets
Peak & Eave of roof sheets
Wall sheets
-Use 2" Woodgrip screws on rib top or 1" screws in the flat.
-Use 1" Woodgrip screws installed in the flat surface
-Use 1" Woodgrip screws installed in the flat surface
Note: Screw lengths may need to be adjusted.
Note: If an alternative fastening method is used, then the material list may have to be altered
for proper fastener lengths.
37
Hanging Sidewall Steel
Note: Optional Bottom Trim May be installed at this time.
Note: Positioning of the first panel is critical. The first panel
installed establishes the alignment and layout of the entire
wall. It is very important that the first panel is accurately
positioned and squared before fastening it in place.
Tip: When laying out the steel panel have the overlap
side of the panel away from the main line of sight.
Tip: You may want to start at a corner away from the
prevailing wind.
Cut the first rib off leaving ¼" of rib on the first sheet of
side steel (Fig. 1). Position the first panel so it is square in
the corner. Make sure the first sheet of sidewall steel is
level and the top of the sheet is even with the top edge
of the edge purlin. This should leave approximately 3" of
grade board exposed at the bottom (Fig.2).
Using 1½" washer nails or 1" screws, secure the top and
bottom of the steel panel at the lap next to the rib, to
assure proper lap and seating of the steel panel. Securing
the panel in this manner will assure all laps to be seated
and will not allow the steel to grow or stretch as you are
running it. Once all the panels are in place and secure
only at the lap, snap a chalk line at each mid-girt location
and finish fastening the wall with 2" neoprene washer nails
or 2" screws on top of the rib. At the top and bottom of the
panels use 1½" fasteners on both sides of each rib, for the
length of the building.
Bottom
Trim
1"
Wall
Steel
1"
1"
Grade Board
Fig. 1
¼"
Fig. 2
Grade
Post
Hanging Endwall Steel
38
Composite
Grade
Board
Steel
Panel
Note: Do not put fasteners on the rib at the top and bottom
of the panel. Doing this may crush the end of the panel.
Endwall panels are fastened in the same
manner as the sidewall panels. The only
difference is the gable sheets are always
started from the middle of the building
and run towards the corners. The panels
should be measured and the gable angle
cut off of the top before installing the
panels.
1"
Start
Installing Roof Steel
Note: Install optional Eave Trim before roof steel is installed.
Note: Install optional inside closure strips before placing
each roof panel. Be careful not to stretch the closure strips.
Nail a temporary 2×4 block on the outside of each end truss
extending 4" to 6" beyond the heel of the truss on both ends.
The length that you extend the 2×4 will determine the
overhang length.
Run a mason line the full length of the building between
these blocks. This mason line determines the length of the
eave.
Cut the first rib off leaving ¼" of rib on the first roof sheet
of roof steel. Lay down the first roof steel panel, squaring it
with the mason line. The roof panels are installed similar to
the wall panels in layout. The only difference is the middle
fastener is secured to the top of the rib instead of the flat.
Fasten the sheets on the rib only.
Inside
Closure Strip
Edge
Purlin
Temporary 2×4
Desired
Steel
Overhang
End
Truss
Edge
Purlin
Nail
Mason
Line
Using 2½" washer nails or 2" screws, fasten roof at top
and bottom of the sheet in the flat next to each rib. All
intermediate fasteners can be put on the rib or in the flat
when using screws; on the rib only when using nails.
Corner and Gable Trim
Corner trim: Level the face of the trim with one side holding it up tight to the roof steel.
Fasten into place when level.
Gable trim: When applying the gable trim, make sure the top side of the trim is in line with the
roof and the side of the gable trim is in line with the end wall.
Fasten the top part to every purlin and the bottom part to the ribs on the end wall steel.
CORNER
& GABLE
TRIM
PREMIUM
GABLE TRIM
Roof Steel
Eave Trim
Corner Sidewall Steel
Trim
1
2
1
EAVE
TRIM
Roof Steel
10
Gable
Trim
150°
1
2
1
3
4
Eave Trim
2-1/4"
Roof Steel
2"
Gable
Trim
5-1/8"
Premium
Gable
Trim
Eave Trim
121
4
3
4
Corner
Trim
Sidewall Steel
5-1/8"
Corner
Trim
Sidewall Steel
3/4"
13/16"
39
Skylites
Universal Ridgecap
Outside Closure
Strip
Skylite Panel
Peak
Purlin
Clear Polycarbonate
Lap skylite over
roof steel
minimum
of 12"
Truss
Pro-Sky®
Ridgecap
Roof
Purlin
Pro-Sky® Ridgecap is a
translucent polycarbonate cover
that has the same basic shape as
the universal ridgecap. This cover
has 100% light transmittance.
Roof Steel
Mastic
sealants help
provide a weatherproof
seal and stop water from
siphoning between sheets.
• Same configuration as
Pro-Rib® panels.
• 20 Times Stronger than
5 oz. fiberglass
• Highest light transmission
• Class “A” Fire Rating
• 10 Year Limited Warranty
• Polycarbonate
• 36" coverage
3' 155-8739
4' 155-8742
7' 155-8755
9' 155-8769
11' 155-8771
Clear as
Glass
teel
as S
Strong
UNIVERSAL
snow bar
1/4"
1"
1-1/4"
1"
2"
1-1/8"
1/4"
40
1-1/8"
snow
jack
Crystal clear Polycarbonate with UV stabilizers
Added strength due to a three to one base
to blade ratio
Provides maximum protection against roof
avalanches and ice damage to gutters,
plants, cars and pedestrian walkways.
Dimensions: 3½" wide × 6" long × 2½" high
Snow Jacks are located in the flat between
the ribs located approximately 1'-2' up from
the eave on the roof. Every other Jack should
be staggered for maximum effectiveness.
The number of pieces and spacing will vary
depending on building width.
Wainscot
Lower decorative panel, usually
a contrasting color from main
building and matches trim
Eavelite
Translucent panel placed at
the eaves
Wall Steel
Panel
Pro-Rib Steel
Panel
2x6 Wainscot
nailer
D-2 Trim
Truss
Edge
Purlin
Wainscot
Length
Wainscot Panels
over 36" require a
2×4 placed
between wainscot
nailer and grade
board.
Steel
Wainscot
Panel
Grade
Board
Eavelite
Length
Eavelite Panels
over 36" require a
2×4 placed between
eavelite nailer and
edge purlin.
Eavelite
Panel
Treated
Post
Treated
Post
D-2 Trim
2×6 Eavelite nailer
Pro-Rib®
Steel
Panel
41
5
6"
Universal
/8"
5
5
13"
/16" 13"
5
5"
3½"
5
8"
Universal
/16"
18"
5
18"
/8"
5
/16"
½"
½"
7"
3½"
8" Series
/8"
5
/16"
½"
½"
5"
6"
Series
/8"
3½"
7"
3½"
PRO-ANCHOR
TM
Economical
Powder coated finish
Cutting edge technology
Flexible - Wet set or drill set
Professional engineered anchor
Lightweight, quick, and easy to install
Designed specifically for post frame buildings
Brackets
Special Order
6" L-Bracket......... 110-4996
4x6 Post............... 110-4970
6x6 Post............... 110-4982
3 Ply 2x8............... 110-4986
3 Ply 2x6............... 110-4974
4 Ply 2x8............... 110-4990
8" L-Bracket.........110-5000
4 Ply 2x6............... 110-4978
Hardware included with bracket for drill set application
Post Covers
Protect investment in building
Easily installed on new or existing buildings
Exterior or interior use
Comes in 2 halves for easy installation
Gives a professional clean finished look
Affordable one time fix
Measure,
Cut,
Fasten
Custom Trim
You Design it.
We bend it.
Go to:
midwestmanufacturing.com
for details.
42
Midwest offers coil stock in lengths up to 50
feet. This steel is not roll formed and thus will
have no ribs. All trim coil stock is .018 inches
nominal thickness after painting. (50 Ft. Max.
per roll)
Interior Liner Panel
Dura-Panel™ Offers:
• Significantly more durable than waferboard
or drywall when used as a liner.
• Matches Pro-Rib® configuration.
• Special duty panels light and easy to handle.
• Economically priced to save money with
great results.
• Virtually maintenance free.
Available in these 2 colors
White Acoustical Panel
Large J-Trim
1" 1/4" with Frieze
• Perforated between the ribs
• Sound deadening liner
• Used for walls and ceilings
3/4"
2-5/16"
Inside
INSIDE
Corner
CORNER
Trim
TRIM
5-1/2"
1"
1
5-1/2"
2
5
3
4
3/4"
LARGE
3/4"
J-TRIM WITH FRIEZE
1
11-1/4"
4
1-1/4"
114
13
16
13/16"
Designed for lining
inside buildings
with steel panels.
STEEL
Inside
INSIDE
Corner
CORNER
HEM
HEM
Trim
TRIM
5 21
ACRYLIC COATED
GALVANIZED
WHITE
1
2
3
4
1
Double
J-Trim
Option
1"
1"
1-3/4"
1-3/4"
43
Insulating Building
Pro-Therm™ gives you these advantages:
• Condensation control
• R-6 Insulation value (estimated)
• Lightweight, quick, and easy to install
• Fire rating UL-723
• Facing meets ASTM C1136
• 87% light reflectance
• Brite white facing for easy cleaning
• 6" taped tabs allow easy lapping of
insulation rolls.
Pro-Therm™ Condensation
Blanket
R-40 Ceiling
Double Girt
Insulating method
utilizing fiberglass
batts of insulation
up to 72" wide.
2×6 girts, applied
flat, are used on
Outside
the outside of
Girts
the building and
2×4 girts, applied
flat, are used on
the interior of the
building. Most
common method
of insulating an
existing building.
2x4 Inside
Girts
Insulation
R-40 Ceiling
Bookshelf Girts
Insulating method
utilizing fiberglass
batt insulation
24" wide. 2×6
girts are applied
flat between the
posts, and are
used to finish off
the outside and
inside of the
building at the
same time.
44
R-19
Walls
R-19
Walls
Bookshelf Girts
Laid flat &
“Sandwiched”
between posts
Insulation
Ventilation
Fasten ridgecap and closure strip to the rib
of the roof steel.
Overhangs (See Page 28)
Economy Vented Closure Strips
Note: 1' overhangs intake approximately 7
square inches of air per foot. Vented closure
strips exhaust 6 square inches of air per foot.
Therefore, continuous vented closure strips
equal a 1' overhang system.
Repeat on both sides, making sure the cap
runs straight with the peak. Lap cap
approximately 6" over each other, using 2
beads of silicone sealant in the lap.
Premium Vented Closure Strips
• 40 year limited warranty
• 8 square inches per lineal foot of closure strip
• Conforms to roof pitch 2/12-20/12
• Industrial strength adhesive for
permanent installation
• Will not crack, clog or rust
• Will not dent or scratch paint finish
Ridge C
ap
te
fS
o
Ro
el
Outside Vented
Closure Strip
directly over
the Peak Purlin
ACRYLIC
PREMIUM
8"
MW-35 Ridge Vent
•3½" throat
•36 square inches of free area per lineal foot.
•Approximately 500 cfm of air exhausted when
equal air is provided.
•Special fiberglass rain
diverter to allow natural
light inside building
•Splice plate and end
flashing included.
Gable Vent
•Size is actual rough opening size
•Nailing flange on all 4 sides
•All steel construction
•Square inches of free area:
14"×18" = 54"
18"×24" = 90"
45
Roof Cupolas
24" or 36" Available
Pre-painted .018 steel construction.
Slide on metal connectors for roof
& wall sections.
Weatherproof louver side vents.
Bird screen included for
mounting over roof cutout.
4/12 pitch flashing included
Special pitch available
Shipped unassembled.
Mix or match any color
of roof, corner post,
louvered sides, and
flashing color.
Includes threaded
base for weather vanes.
24x24x30 4/12156-9401
36x36x45 4/12156-9427
24x24x30 Special Pitch 156-9435
36x36x45 Special Pitch 156-9445
Carriage156-9508
Cow
156-9472
Duck
156-9480
Eagle
156-9476
Hog
156-9474
Horse
156-9469
Pheasant156-9470
Retriever156-9478
Rooster156-9485
Sailboat156-9524
Weather Vanes
46
⁵⁄8" threaded top
plate included
Slide on Roof
Sections
Corner
Post
Bird wire
mesh
included
4/12 Pitch
stocked
Other
pitches
available
Reverse flashing
nail flange on the
inside
Standard flashing
nail flange on the
outside
Choose color combinattion to match your building
Hand cast aluminum with satin black enamel finish
for maintenance-free service.
18" arrow length 4 lbs. Overall Height 205 ⁄8"
5
⁄8" NC threaded (male) to attach to cupola’s
Will not attach directly to roof
Flashing Assembly
Lay out the six pieces as shown and bend the designated
pieces* to conform to the pitch of the roof.
*
Assemble the end pieces as shown with sheet
metal screws. The flashing is pre-cut to a 4/12 pitch.
Trimming the designated areas (*) may be required
for other pitches.
Attach the side pieces as shown to
complete the flashing assembly.
Cupola
Installation
Corner Post Trim
*
*
*
Fasteners
*
*
*
*
Reverse Flashing Nail
Flange on the inside.
Roof Connecting
Flange
Fasteners
*
*
Base Assembly
Slide the four corner posts trim on the side
assemblies.
Roof
Section
Roof
Cap
Once all four sides are connected, turn the
base over so the roof connecting flange is up.
Roof Assembly
Slide the roof sections into the roof connecting
flange of each side assembly.
Screw the roof cap to each of the roof sections
using the steel plate provided.
Slide each roof connector 4-6" at a time until
all of the connectors are under the roof cap.
After all of the roof connectors are driven under
the roof cap, tighten the bolts and trim the roof
connectors off to create a finished appearance.
Roof Connectors
Attach the cupola to the flashing assembly with
sheet metal screws. Attach weathervane.
Place the bird screen underneath the flashing
assembly and attach the unit to the roof.
47
Horse Stalls
Lumber Requirements
The first step in building your stall is to decide
on your finished dimensions, which determines
the lengths of lumber required. The following
specifications cover the lumber requirements for
each wall model. Lumber listed is for 12' wide walls.
Should your needs be different, just change the
lumber lengths accordingly. Treated lumber is
recommended if using 2×6 × 12'. Lumber from
front wall can be used for door bottom rather
than plywood.
Front Wall with Grillwork and Door:
• 1 pc. ¾" × 48" × 96" plywood (smooth 1 side)
- for bottom half of sliding door.
• 1 pc. 2×6 × 48" door header board
• 9 pcs. 2×6 × 96" wall boards
• 1 pc. 2×12 × 144" track board
• 2 pcs. 2×2 × 36" door channel filler
Front Wall System
Door dimensions are 48" wide, 86" high.
Overhead clearance must be at least 94½"
to accommodate the door, trolley, and track.
System comes complete with the following:
Grillwork sections:
10' front includes 1 - 24" & 1 - 48"
12' front includes 2 - 48"
• 2 End channels
• 4 Header channels
• 1 Wall Brace Assembly Screws
Side Wall System
System comes complete with the following:
Grillwork sections:
10' sidewall includes 2 - 48" & 1 - 24"
12' sidewall includes 3 - 48"
• 2 End channels
• 2 Header channels
• 1 Wall brace assembly screws
Partition or Rear
Wall System
System comes complete with the following:
• 4 End channels
• 2 Wall brace assembly screws
48
Solid Front Wall with Door:
• 1 pc. ¾" × 48" × 96" plywood (smooth 1 side)
- for bottom half of sliding door.
• 1 pc. 2×6 × 48" door header board
• 9 pcs. 2×6 × 96" wall boards
• 1 pc. 2×12 × 144" track board
• 2 pcs. 2×2 × 36" door channel filler
• 11 pcs. 2×6 × 144" wall boards
Solid Side Wall:
• 17 pcs. 2×6 × 144" wall boards
Typical corner posts are standard 4×4 lumber.
Five (5) posts are required for the first stall and
three (3) additional posts for each stall thereafter,
when constructed side-by-side.
Note: All 4×4 posts should be 8' in length above
the ground. Longer posts are required if they are
to be anchored in the ground.
Horse Stalls Assembly Instructions
Post Installation
After making your lumber
list, the next step is to layout
the stall. Install all corner posts
with 8' of length above ground
and lateral dimensions at 10' or
12' on centers, depending on
the width of the walls you have
selected. Be sure they’re all
plumb, level and true.
Next, install the center door
post wall with a 4' dimension
(on centers) from the corner
post on the side that you want
the door (see Stall Arrangement drawing).
Take note of the 1½" offset
of the center post, which is
necessary so that the sliding
door can open past the post.
The front wall and center post
must all be flush.
With all posts in place, you
are now ready to install the
walls you’ve selected. Unpack
each carton as you’re ready for
installation and account for all
parts on the packing list.
Review the assembly drawings
to familiarize yourself with parts
placement and read all
instructions carefully.
Stall
Arrangement
X = 10' or 12'
Y = 4'
Z = 6' or 8'
Note post offset flush with wall
Y
a
Door Kit
X
X
Z
b
i
b
A. 1 8' #3B round track
e
B. 1 pair 203-L trolley hangers
C. 1 45"x36" welded grille section
c
D. 86" lumber fit vertical channel
d
f
E. #630 sliding latch
F. 50-3 door pull
d
G. 1 4' #61 bottom guide
H. #401 bottom guide retainer
g
I. #540 door stop
h
49
Contractor grade
jumbo gutter systems
Left end cap
Hidden hangers
2' O.C.
Right
end
cap
6" Jumbo
gutter
Inside corner
Outside corner
Front elbow
2 per downspout
• Available in all matching 25 colors
• Premium paint system
• Made with heavy duty 28 gauge steel
• 58% more volume than 5" gutters
• Quick and easy to install
• All the right accessories available
give the professional finished look
• Downspouts offer twice the volume as standard, reducing clogs
• Designed to fit with 6" fascia
Bead of lap
sealant
Downspout
bands
2 per downspout
Downspout
Side Elbow
Notch upstream
* *
*
gutter systems
1.Lap gutter 6" overlap (min.)
(Relief cut up stream section)
*Placement of A. Make relief cut on gutter lap.
pop rivets or
B. Bead of silicone in lap joint.
srews
C. Interlock gutter.
D. Pop rivet or screw together.
2.End caps
Apply
A. Apply sealant to end cap channel.
sealant
B. Attach end cap.
in channel
C. Crimp on end cap.
all the way 3.Downspout outlet
A. Mark and cut outlet hole.
around.
B. Apply sealant to outlet.
C. Rivet or screw outlet to gutter.
4.Install gutter
A. Place hidden hangers 24" o.c.
B. Place gutter against fascia.
C. Install hex head screw into
fascia board.
5. Install downspout
A. Assemble downspout and elbows
as required.
B. Rivet or screw assembly together.
C. Attach assembly to gutter and
downspout.
D. Attach downspout bands as
needed to downspout and wall.
Mark and cut out hole using jig
saw or snips.
To properly lap 2 pieces of gutter, make a relief cut on the
gutter lap. Be sure this relief cut is on the upstream
portion of the gutter. Apply a bead of silicone
between the overlapped gutter portions.
This will prevent the seam from leaking.
Finally, apply two pop rivets in the
designated locations.
50
Gutter installation
Determine your downspout locations.
Mark and cut outlet hole for downspouts
outlet. Apply silicone to the bottom side
of the downspout outlet. Place the outlet
from the top side of the gutter. Using four
pop-rivets rivet the downspout outlet to
the gutter.
It is also possible to install the downspout
outlet before attaching your gutter to the
fascia board.
To attach the downspout to the outlet,
slide the downspout over the bottom of
the outlet. Rivet the downspout to the
outlet using four rivets.
Apply silicone
sealant on the
interior channel
of the end cap
To install the end cap to the gutter apply
a generous bead of silicone sealant. The
cap will slide onto the end of the gutter.
It is also possible to install End Caps
before attaching your gutter to the
Fascia Board.
51
Our columns are an engineered product.
You know what you are getting and what
the column is capable of withstanding
before you install it. You don’t get that
with a 4x6 or 6x6 piece of timber.
It’s not just glue and finger joints holding
these columns together. There are thread
locked wires driven straight through the
layers of these columns and then rivet
clenched on both sides to provide
superior holding power.
Our columns feature a 20 gauge
stainless steel plate at all splice points
in the column. This provides maximum
strength even at what would normally
be the weakest point.
29 Gauge Panel
Actual .0142" minimum thickness before painting
.0165" nominal thickness after painting
G-60 Galvanized Coating plus Zinc Phosphate
Limited 40 Year Paint Warranty
®
Pro-Rib is the leading steel panel in the post frame industry offered at
competitive prices and is comparable with nearly all of the standard panels
®
on the market today. Pro-Rib is also increasing its usage in the residential
and light commercial markets.
28 Gauge Panel
Actual .0157” minimum thickness before painting
.018” nominal thickness after painting
G-100 Galvanized Coating plus Zinc Phosphate
Limited Lifetime Paint Warranty
®
®
Premium Pro- Rib is one of the most versatile members of the Pro-Rib
family of quality products. It is truly a premium wall and roof panel whose
applications span a tremendous variety of residential, commercial, and
industrial construction projects. The superior performance of the Premium
Paint System sets this panel apart from the crowd.
Our columns are straight. Hydraulic
pressures systems generate hundreds of
pounds of pressure over the entire length
of the column to straighten it before it is
manufactured.
Our columns are more versatile. We build
columns up to 60' or greater. Try getting
a 6x6 - 60' from your local lumber yard!
We also provide multiple lumber grades
so that your columns are built for your
application. Not overbuilt or overpriced.
We use a galvanized thread lock wire
in all areas of the column except for
the treated portion that will contact the
ground. This area gets coated stainless
steel wire protection. Midwest columns
can also be built with 4 or 5 plys.
Our columns are safer. They feature a
pre-built notch. This allows for the truss
to sit firmly in the column and eliminates
the need to carry a chain saw up a ladder
to notch the timber.
The nations’s leading nail manufacturer
does not make a nail long enough to
go completely through three layers of
dimensional 2" lumber. Our process
doesn’t need a nail because it makes its
own. We drive all the way through the
layers, making this the column you can
count on!
20 gauge
stainless
steel
plates
at all
joints
9" On Center steel panel profile
38" Nominal
Underlap
3/4" high
36" Nominal
9" On Center
Overlap
Pro-Rib One Hundred
Square Foot Calculation
Length.................................... 96"
Number of pieces.................. ×20
Equals................................. 1920
100 sq ft conversion..... ×.002639
Equals.......................... 5.067 SQ
100 square ft. conversion factor is
based on the overall formed 38"
width of the Pro-Rib® panel.
Pro-Snap One Hundred
Square Foot Calculation
Length.................................... 96"
Number of pieces.................. ×20
Equals................................. 1920
100 sq ft conversion......×.001215
Equals........................ 2.3328 SQ
100 square ft. conversion factor is
based on the overall formed width
of the Pro-Snap® panel, 17½".
Available in 24 Panel Colors
Grade 80 (Full Hard Steel)
100,000 p.s.i. nom.Tensile Strength
UL 2218 Class 4 Hail Resistance
UL 790 Class A Fire Resistance
UL 580 Class 90 Wind Uplift
®
®
28 Gauge Panel
Actual .0157” minimum thickness before painting
.018” nominal thickness after painting
G-100 Galvanized Coating plus Zinc Phosphate
Limited Lifetime Paint Warranty
®
Premium Pro-Snap is an excellent choice for your residential or light
®
commercial applications. Premium Pro-Snap is an economical, snap
®
together, concealed fastener roofing panel. Premium Pro-Snap offers
ease of installation, longevity, energy savings and exceptional durability.
The superior performance of the Premium Paint System sets this steel
roofing panel apart from the crowd.
-Plus Copper Colored in Lifetime Products
Trim Available in All Colors
Zinc Phosphate Pre-Treatment
Coil Coating “Paint” Process
ASTM-A755
Structural Strength ASTM-A653
For Underwriters Laboratory Product
Certifications see www.ul.com
Steel Colors: Ash Gray, Beige, Black, Brite Red, Brite White, Bronze,
Brown, Burgundy, Burnished Slate, Charcoal Gray, Colonial Red, Emerald
Green, Forest Green, Galvanized, Ivory, Lt. Gray, Midnight Gray, Ocean
Blue, Patina Green, Pinewood, Prairie Wheat, Red, Slate Blue, Tan, White
Copper colored & Multi-Tone steel avialable in Premium Products
2½" Galvanized @75/# 230-1011
2½" Painted
@75/# 230-1105
3" Galvanized @60/# 230-1040
3" Painted
@60/# 230-1134
4" Galvanized @50/# 230-1079
4" Painted
@50/# 230-1163
• Ringshank for holding power
• Preferred by professionals for Roofing
• Extra thick silicone washer resists drying
out and provides superior water tight seal
• Available in all 25 colors
• All Galvanized for long life
1¼" SOFFIT NAILS
NEOPRENE POLE BARN NAILS CORNER AND GABLE TRIM
FOR SIDEWALL APPLICATION
Roof Steel
1½" Galvanized @125/# 230-1192
1½" Painted
@125/# 230-1286
2" Galvanized @100/# 230-1228
2" Painted
@100/# 230-1312
2½” Galvanized @80/# 230-1257
2½” Painted
@80/# 230-1341
• Ringshank for holding power
• Preferred by professionals for Sidewalls
• Neoprene washer for water tight seal
• Available in all 25 colors
• All Galvanized for long life
RING SHANK POLE BARN
NAILS, HARDENED SHANK
Eave Trim
10-3/4"
3/4"
Sidewall Steel
Corner
Trim
5-1/8"
• Cover and trim outside siding
corners and gable ends.
White
Brown SO Colors
8'
156-3889
10'156-3520 156-3708 156-3915
12'156-3546 156-3724 156-3931
14'156-3562 156-3740 156-3957
16'156-3588 156-3766 156-3973
STITCH SCREWS
EAVE TRIM
FASCIA CAP
L-4 FASCIA
Premium
Gable
Trim
J-Trim
140˚
1
3
4
121
4-1/4"
• Top edge of roof panel flashing
• Used with outide closure strips
• 20" wide
10' 155-8412 SO Color 155-8425
SO Galvanized 155-8409
RAKE TRIM
RESIDENTIAL
RIDGE
1
3
4
156-5645
Roof Steel
181
3/4"
3
16 Hem
2-3/4"
1-1/8"
Soffit
9/16"
• Rake trim flashes the endwall edge
overhangs of the steel of the roof.
12' Lengths SO Colors
156-4040
2-1/4"
Gable
Trim
2"
13/16"
3/4"
Corner
Trim
22
3-5/8"
3-5/8"
3
4
2 43
1-3/8"
Hem
SNAP
RIDGE
Sidewall Steel
• Used as alternative to rake and gable
trim to create a 6" overhang.
14' Lengths SO Colors
156-5645
SNAP RIDGE
L-6 FASCIA
5-1/2"
3-1/2"
7/8"
7/8"
Soffit
Sidewall
Steel
1-1/2"
• Used as Fascia on 6" wide material
• Used for overhang flashing
12' Lengths; SO
12' 156-4587 12' Wht 156-6831
Door
Jamb
Trim
L-8 FASCIA
DOOR JAMB TRIM
3-1/2"
1-1/2"
Door
Jamb
1-1/2"
1-3/4"
REVERSE “J”
1"
1"
1-3/4"
• Used as closure and trim along the
top edge of a sidewall and around
door and window openings
39.5" 156-6284
8'6" 156-6310
10' Wht 156-6336 10' 156-6349
10'6" 156-6378
12'6" 156-6404
16'3" 156-6433
• Reverse “J” is used on the hip of a
roof with snap ridge.
10' Lengths SO Colors
156-4150
FRIEZE & “J” TRIM SMALL
FRIEZE & “J” TRIM LARGE
1" 1/4"
1" 1/4"
1
7/16" Soffit
2
°
1601"
160°
1
• The small is a great time saver
2-13/16"
2 3/4"
1 when installing an overhang.
2 • The large is designed for lining
12' Small 156-4354 inside buildings with steel panels.
1
2
FRIEZE STARTER
12' 156-4341 SOFFIT
1
3
1-1/2"
5/8"
• Used as alternative to rake and gable
trim to create a 6" overhang.
10' Lengths SO Colors
156-4163
1"
1"
1-3/4"
1/4"
Reverse J
Top Girt
• Used to cover gable ends on overhangs
• Supports soffit panels
9' 156-5599 14' Wht 156-5641
Door
Jamb
3-3/8"
Soffit
Panel
BOXED END
FASCIA
1-3/8"
330°
9
3
• Ridge cap for
the
peak of the roof
16
16
• Hip of a roof
10' Lengths; 4, 5, 6, 8, or 10/12 pitch
4/12 pitch All Colors 156-4215
5/12 pitch All Colors 156-4257
4/12 pitch All Colors 156-4228
4/12 pitch All Colors 156-4231
4/12 pitch All Colors 156-4244
Specify color on order
Soffit
Panel
1-1/2" 1-1/2"1-1/2"
4-1/2"
• Used as Fascia on 4" wide material
• Used for overhang flashing
• Used as snow guard on endwall purlins
10' Lengths; SO 10' 156-4590
12' 156-4370 12' White 156-6828
150˚
13/16"
4
RESDIENTIAL
• Used as alternative
to
rakeTRIM
and gable
RAKE
trim to create a 6" overhang.
1/2" 1"
• Supports Soffit Panel
• Used to cover 2x4 fascia board on
eave of building
12'3" Lengths; SO 156-5670
Snow guard
must be installed
before roof steel
& gable steel
1
1
• Used as trim for sliding doors and
service doors
7/16"
9'156-5269 10'156-5272 10' Wht 156-5243
12' 156-5285 14' 156-5298 16' 156-5308
1"
3/4"
2-5/16"
Steel
1"
3/4"
12' Large 156-4367
1/4"
1"
Used as trim for sliding doors and service doors
8-1/4"
Soffit
RIDGECAP
“J” TRIM
1/4"
1-1/2"
Soffit
1
2-1/2"
4"
6-1/4"
UNIVERSALRIDGECAP
UNIVERSAL
5"
150°
1
2
14' Lengths SO Colors
5/8"
• Available in 3/12 or 4/12 pitch
3/12 155-5965 4/12 155-5978
10
1
2
Eave Trim
4-1/4"
Soffit
Roof Steel
Corner Sidewall Steel
Trim
1" Galvanized @140/# 155-9842
2" Painted
@70/# 155-9846
• Preferred siding & roofing screw used
to fasten Pro-Snap ® steel roofing panels
• Use 40 screws per square or 1 screw
every 2' of panel
3-3/4"
13/16"
5-1/4"
13/16"
PREMIUM GABLE TRIM
PRO-SNAP® SCREWS
3/4"
Gable
Trim
A 1# box covers 150' or 112 pieces of soffit. 10D (3") Galvanized @45/# 230-1370
1 # Box - Specify color 156-4396
30D (4½") Galvanized @35/# 230-1435
60D (6") Oil Quenched @25/# 230-1464
WOODGRIP SCREWS
• Ringshank for holding power
1" Galvanized @115/# 230-1493
• Hardened Shank for easy application
1" Painted
@115/# 230-1613
1½" Galvanized @95/# 230-1529
SELF TAPPING SCREWS
1½" Painted
@95/# 230-1642
¾" Galvanized @85/# 230-1736
2" Galvanized @75/# 230-1558
¾" Painted
@85/# 230-1820
2" Painted
@75/# 230-1671
1" Galvanized @75/# 230-1765
2½" Galvanized @65/# 230-1587
1" Painted
@75/# 230-1859
2½" Painted
@65/# 230-1707
1½" Galvanized @60/# 230-1794
• Preferred siding & roofing screw used to 1½" Painted
@60/# 230-1888
fasten steel panels to wood structures
• Used to attach steel panels to steel
• No Predrilling required #9 Diamater
structure and steel frame sliding doors
• ¼" Hex Head
• No Predrilling required #12 Diamater
• Neoprene washer for water tight seal
• ⁵⁄16 " Hex Head
• Available in all 25 colors
• Neoprene washer for water tight seal
• All Galvanized for long life
• Available in all 25 colors
¾" Galvanized @100/# 230-1914
¾" Painted
@100/# 230-1943
• Used to stitch at overlap location
and to plug holes in steel panels
• Neoprene washer for water tight seal
• #12 diameter, ¼" Hex Head
END CAPS
5-1/8"
E-Z SEAL POLE BARN NAILS
FOR ROOF APPLICATION
Door
Jamb
1/4"
1-1/2"
HEM TRIM
Weather
strip
• Used as Fascia on 8" wide material
• Used for overhang flashing
8'6" 156-6857 10'6" 156-6886 SO
12' 156-6912 12' Wht 156-6844
⁷⁄16" “J”
1"
Steel
Panel
• Used at the top of the
wall to support the soffit
2-1/2"
TRIM
5/8"
1/2"
Wall
Sheathing
4
2x ailer
N
2-1/2"
• Covers cut steel edge around openings
10' Lengths; SO 156-6721
Lap
Siding
7/16"
Soffit
Panels
1/4" Hem
9/16"
12' 156-4338
• J-Trim used with soffit
• Covers overhangs at top of the wall
VENTED: 1'×16" 156-4309
2'×16" 156-4312 12'×16" 156-4312
SOLID: 12'×16" 156-4406
53
SIDEWALL FLASHING
• To be used where flashing is
needed to go behind the wall
4-3/4"
steel and on top of the roof steel
10' SO 156-7173
1-1/2" 150˚
13/16"
5"
END WALL
FLASHING
3/4"
• To be used where there is
a lean-to type roof sloping,
away from the vertical wall.
13/16" 10' SO 156-7209
126˚
6"
3/4"
Sidewall
flashing
End wall
flashing
OUTSIDE VERTICAL DOOR TRIM
2-1/4"
& INSIDE
GAMBREL
2"
BREAK TRIM
3-3/4"
4-3/8"
13/16"
Roof Steel
Panels
Outside 156-7267
• Used at the hip
155˚
and flared
joint on a
4-3/8"
gambrel
13/16"
roof 10' SO
Inside 156-7238
3/4"
2x4 SPF
Purlins
ROOF EDGE
Overhang
Jack
3-3/4"
POST FRAME WINDOWS
3/4"
1-1/8"
1"
1"
1-1/4"
1"
19"
2"
1-1/8"
1/4"
• Used for roof valley flashing
10' Lengths 156-1066
18" VALLEY FLASHING
• Universal snow bar
10' Lengths; SO 156-6740
SNOW JACK
1"
1"
8"
8"
• Used for roof valley flashing
10' Lengths 156-1037
INSIDE
CORNER
HEM
INSIDE
CORNER HEM
TRIM
• Helps prevent
snow avalanches
157-2676
VALLEY CAP
1-1/4"
1
Valley
cap
Valley
flashing
INSIDE
CORNER
INSIDE CORNER TRIM
TRIM• An attractive detail trim for
140°
5-1/2"
inside corners
1
• Provides larger
2 coverage
5
5-1/2"
6-1/2"
• Used to cover roof valley flashing
10' Lengths 156-0999
CLOSURE STRIPS
3/4"
8' 156-7076
12' 156-7092
Pro-Rib ® Inside 4 pk
SO 155-8616 Stock 155-8577
Pro-Snap ® Outside 8 pk
SO 155-9862
SO 1
2
Colors
5
10' 156-7089
14' 156-7144
OUTSIDE CLOSURE
Regular or vented
End
wall
Pro-Rib ® Outside 4 pk
SO 155-8603 Stock 155-8580
Pro-Rib ® Outside Vented 4 pk
SO 155-8593
OUTSIDE CLOSURE Pro-Snap® configuration
54
RIDGE VENTILATION
Premium vented closure strip
Window Unit
• Used for flashing and breaks in
sidewalll panels
12'3" Lengths; SO 156-5861
Pro-Rib ® 155-8548
Pro-Snap ® 155-9858
DRIP CAP
2-1/2"
1/4"
1-1/4"
• Flashing for window and door headers
10' Lengths; SO 156-4574
SINGLE SLIDING DOOR
112TRACK
2 12 COVER
1"
3-1/2"
2-3/8"
135˚
Track
• Coceals single 2x4 trackboard header
10' Lengths; SO 155-5871
DOUBLE TRACKBOARD TRIM
3"
3"
2"
3
4
2
Track
Board
Support
Track
Support
OVERDOOR TRACKBOARD
TRIM
• Coceals sliding door header
10' Lengths; SO 155-5907
1"
3-1/8" 8
MINI-WAREHOUSE TRIM
1-1/8"
Sidewall Steel Panel
1-1/8"
2-5/8"
MM Truss
Mini-Warehouse
Frame
1-1/8"
Pole
2"
• Used to trim openings on
Mini-warehouse overhead doorways
6'6" 156-6909
9'6" 156-7005
7'6" 156-6967 10'6" 156-7021
8'6" 156-6983
5/8"
Track Board
3
3
DOUBLE SLIDING DOOR
TRACK COVER 2" 1-1/2"
145º
7-3/4"
145º
3/4"
2-1/2"
135º
2-1/4"
3 78
31
2-1/2"
• Coceals door track
• Serves as sliding door flashing
• Hemmed edge locks into tab brackets
10' Lengths; SO 155-5842
• Coceals double 2x4 trackboard header
and stopblock
10' Lengths; SO 155-5897
3-7/8"
INSIDE CLOSURE
1-1/2"
2
13
16
13/16"
6-1/2"
1/2"
2-1/2"
1-1/4"
2"
1
2"
Window Unit
1-1/4" SINGLE12TRACKBOARD TRIM
1-3/4"
1"
1
2
DOUBLE ANGLE TRIM
4' × 3' 403-3840
5' × 4' 403-3853
134
158
• Used as a break on vertical wall steel
for eavelites/wainscot
10' Lengths; SO 156-4710
NOTE: Screen units are to be installed on the
exterior of the bldg. Storm units are installed
on the inside of the building. Therefore when
ordering windows you generally just order
a screen unit. Sometimes you may order a
screen and a storm, but it is highly doubtful
that you would be using a storm unit alone.
1
7
7/8" 8
1/2"
• Built in “J” Channel on screen units.
• Frame and Sash are completely
weather stripped with woven pile.
• A durable standard baked enamel
finish available in white or brown.
• Shipped ready to install.
• Center strong mullion
• Nylon track for easy sliding sash.
48" W×36" H 60" W×20" H
Wht w J 403-3730
403-3756
Brn w J 403-3772
403-3785
Wht Strm 403-3743
403-3769
4' × 2' 403-3824
4
3' × 4' 403-3837
• Attractive detail inside corner trim Hidden fasteners 10' SO 156-4710
HEMMED D-2 TRIM
1-5/8"
THERMOPANE
INSULATED WINDOWS
114
• To be used with Midest all steel frame
sliding door systems
• Use to seal where doors meet
10' 156-6527 14' 156-6543
16' 156-6556
48" W × 36" H
Rough Opening
Storm unit
White only
60" W × 20" H
Rough Opening
Screen unit
White or Brown
• Roof Edge flashes the top edge of
sidewall overhangs
10' Lengths; SO 156-4095
1/2" 2"
13/16"
3/4"
• To be used with Midest all steel frame
sliding door systems
• Covers the edge of the door
10' 156-6653 14' 156-6679
12' 156-6666 16' 156-6682
1/2"
1-1/2"
3-1/2"
3/4"
150°
13
3 16
1
4
4 Hem
3-1/2"
1/4"
19"
343
13/16"
150°
UNIVERSAL SNOW BAR
1"
4 38
Gambrel
Truss
7/8"
40" VALLEY FLASHING
155°
3/4"
ASTRAGAL TRIM
• Coceals double door track
• Serves as sliding door flashing
• Hemmed edge locks into tab brackets
1
10' Lengths; SO 155-5855
FLAT STEEL
MIDWEST offers flat
steel in lengths up to
50 fet. This steel is
not roll formed and
thus will have no ribs. .018 steel
4" 155-6773
11" 155-6841
6" 155-6799
15" 155-6860
8" 155-6812
18" 155-6870
10" 155-6812
40.625" 155-6896
CUSTOM BENT STEEL TRIM
AVAILABLE
55
Sku# 101-7835
9/14
www.midwestmanufacturing.com