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“20 YEARS OF PEACE AND CREATION” — Nursultan Nazarbayev President of the Republic of Kazakhstan Kazakhstan Business & Culture An A–Z Guide By Jeremy Tredinnick Produced in celebration of the 20th Anniversary of Independence of the Republic of Kazakhstan Foreword T his year Kazakhstan is celebrating the 20th anniversary of its independence. During the first and the most challenging decade of its sovereignty our nation strove towards progress and modernisation courtesy of the spirit, persistence and enthusiasm of its people, thus having embarked on its own “Kazakhstan way” of development, maintaining the core values of Freedom, Unity, Stability and Prosperity. Consistent efforts of the government in the second decade have brought fruitful results to the country. Blessed with huge natural resources, we have carefully but swiftly grown into a modern and dynamic nation with a vibrant economy and an international reputation as a valuable global partner, contributing to international peace and stability ranging from non-proliferation to energy security, religious tolerance and coexistence. As the current Chairman of the 38th Session of the Council of Foreign Ministers of the Organisation of Islamic Cooperation (OIC) and the former Chair of the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE), Kazakhstan today plays an important role in the international arena. As a matter of fact, Kazakhstan’s economy is mostly based on the energy and mining sectors. The introduction of the Strategic Development Plan for 2020 under the motto “Modernisation, People’s Wellbeing, Innovation and Integration”, however, enables the country to diversify and develop in a wide range of other fields, from high technology to innovative research and development. As such, Kazakhstan presents a wide array of business opportunities. This book aims to provide a brief insight into many aspects of Kazakhstan, providing information about business, industry, infrastructure and the major tourism and cultural attractions of our beautiful country. I hope the reader will find it both enjoyable and informative. Yerzhan Kazykhanov Minister of Foreign Affairs of the Republic of Kazakhstan Introduction I n 2011 Kazakhstan celebrates the 20th Anniversary of its Independence. In international terms it is still a relatively young nation, yet in only two decades it has risen further and faster than any other Eurasian country, leveraging its vast natural resources in combination with astute, foresighted government to modernise and develop rapidly on the socioeconomic and geopolitical stage. President Nursultan Nazarbayev has focused on creating a stable and forward-thinking country that is able and willing to fulfil a role as pioneer, partner, intermediary or leader across a range of fields, from economic and political to religious and environmental. To this end, Kazakhstan has been very proactive in a large number of international organisations. In January 2010 it took over the Chairmanship of the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE); in June 2011 it accepted the Chairmanship of the Organisation of Islamic Cooperation (OIC); and it is heavily involved in the increasingly influential Shanghai Cooperation Organization (SCO). Kazakhstan has emerged as Central Asia’s economic and political leader, and garners a constantly growing reputation as the voice of reason, wisdom and experience across a broad range of issues on the global stage. In many ways this central, often pivotal role parallels its geographical location at the heart of Eurasia. Covering an area larger than all of Western Europe, it occupies a strategic position astride the worlds of both East and West, linked to both by geography, a rich multicultural heritage, and today through an increasing importance in the energy and other economic sectors. As it develops its vast oil and natural gas resources, pipelines stretch north into Russia, west to Mediterranean ports for transport to European markets, and east into China, with whom Kazakhstan has a flourishing strategic partnership, supplying the booming energy needs of Beijing, Shanghai and even Guangzhou, many thousands of kilometres away. It is the world’s top uranium producer, has a diverse and booming mining industry, and also serves as a vital overland bridge for both railways and highways – an intrinsic part of the New Eurasian Land Bridge that provides an important economic corridor for the modern world. All this comes at a time when a new generation of Kazakhstanis reach voting age – a generation born into an independent Kazakhstan, with no memory of the hardships of old. This new wave of young people are well educated, progressive in their attitudes, sophisticated and modern in outlook, and will inherit a Kazakhstan ripe with potential to become one of the world’s leading nations. President Nursultan Nazarbayev understands this, and in his seminal book The Kazakhstan Way he says: “I devote this book to our young generation – a special generation. You have been born and are maturing in an independent Kazakhstan already. The time of your youth is the time of our country’s rising and blossoming. You have absorbed the spirit of achievement and success. Your destinies will define the destiny of our country.” In just 20 years Kazakhstan has modernised and developed to an amazing extent, whilst remaining true to the fundamental values of “Freedom, Unity, Stability and Prosperity”. With its Government committed to building a diversified, highly technological, flexible and competitive economy with a high value-added component, following a motto of “Modernisation, People’s Wellbeing, Innovation and Integration”, the next two decades look very bright indeed. Jeremy Tredinnick, August 2011 Acknowledgement & Thanks This book could not have been realised without the generous support and valuable contributions of Consul General Nurzhan Abdymomunov and his staff at the Consulate General of the Republic of Kazakhstan in Hong Kong and Macao. 7 A Ablai Khan T he leader of central and northern Kazakhstan’s Middle Horde in the 18th century, Ablai Khan played an important role in the unification of the three Kazakh hordes at a time when the region was threatened by the Zhungars, a Mongol group from the east. He swore allegiance to Russia and requested integration to protect his people from the rampant Zhungars, and this opened the door for the inexorable advance of the Russian Empire into Central Asia in the 19th century. Air Travel – www.airastana.com K azakhstan has an extensive network of 54 airports, 12 of which cater to international flights (many to Russia and Germany from the northern oil and mining cities). The three main international hubs are Astana, Almaty and Atyrau – the centre of government, tourism and the oil industry respectively (although by no means exclusively). The national carrier is Air Astana, which operates international routes to Moscow, St Petersburg, Samara, Yekaterinburg, Amsterdam, Hanover, Frankfurt, London, Istanbul, Antalya, T’Blisi, Baku, Abu Dhabi, Dushanbe, Tashkent, Delhi, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Urumqi, Beijing and Seoul. More than a dozen foreign airlines also fly into/out of the country, including KLM, Lufthansa, Turkish Airlines and Asiana Airlines. Distances are often so great within Kazakhstan that travel between cities is only practical by air. Air Astana has a comprehensive domestic network, which operates alongside a number of other small Kazakh domestic airlines such as SCAT Air (www.scat.kz) and Euro-Asia Air (www.euroasiaair.kz). 8 Aksu-Zhabagly Nature Reserve – www.aksuzhabagly.com A superb protected mountain region near Shymkent in South Kazakhstan that is home to a rich variety of flower and plant life, many bird species and mammals such as the lynx, snow leopard, Tien Shan bear and argali sheep. Huge, steep-sided gorges such as the Aksu and Zhulsaly canyons make this an excellent horse riding or trekking destination. Aktau – www.aktaubusiness.com L ocated on the coast of the Caspian Sea, this young city’s name means “White Mountain”, a nod to the white chalk cliffs upon which it was built in the late 1950s after oil was discovered in the desert hinterlands of the Mangystau Province. Today it is still predominantly associated with the oil/gas and mining industries, but a new vision has been created for it, and a master plan to create a new Aktau titled the “City of Energy” is in motion. Comprising a complete makeover that will cost dozens of billions of US dollars, this new metropolis will not only be a high-rise centre of the region’s energy infrastructure, but will capitalise on its coastal location to become a centre for tourism, a “Kazakhstan on Sea” destination where sun, sea and sand allow for beach-style resort holidays and water sports in the clear, unpolluted waters of the Caspian Sea. 9 Aktobe H istorically this city was a fortress on the frontier between the Russian Empire and the Kazakh Khanate, but today it is an industrial centre of metallurgy, chrome smelting and petrochemicals. Located on the plains near the southern foothills of the Ural Mountains, it is surrounded by grass steppe scattered with salt lakes, and is an important rail junction within the country and from/to Russia. Alakol Lake A lakol is the largest of four salt lakes in the Alakol Depression, a barren landscape in far eastern Kazakhstan near the border with China at the Zhungar Gate. Alakol measures 104km long, 54km wide and up to 54 metres deep, and its unpolluted salty water is considered to have great curative powers, hence the small number of health resorts on its shore. Parts of this lake system have been protected as the Alakol Nature Reserve, since the reed-lined shores of the lakes are home to more than 200 bird species, including pelicans, bustards, herons and divers. Alatau Mountain Ranges T wo mountain spurs comprise the northern section of the Tien Shan range between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan: the Zailiyskiy Alatau and the Kungey Alatau. The Zailiyskiy Alatau is the most northerly and closest to Almaty; it runs about 350km west-east, with peaks rising to just under 5,000 metres. The central section of deep, forested valleys and high meadows and peaks is protected as the Ile-Alatau National Park. Behind this range and to the east is the Kungey Alatau, much of which is in Kyrgyzstan but which extends into Kazakhstan eastwards to Kegen and the Khan Tengri Massif. The rich alpine flora and fauna of these mountains, their great beauty and proximity to Almaty make them a playground for Kazakhs seeking an escape from the city. Al-Farabi A l-Farabi lived in the 9th-10th centuries in the renowned city of Otrar in modernday South Kazakhstan Province, and was called the “second 10 Aristotle”. He spent years in centres of learning such as Baghdad, Aleppo, Cairo and Damascus, where he studied science, philosophy, the concept of faith, and the teachings of the Greek philosophers Plato, Aristotle, Pythagoras and Ptolemy. He used his remarkable knowledge creatively to publish a world of ideas on virtually every scientific and philosophical subject. His name graces Kazakhstan’s pre-eminent scientific institute – the Al-Farabi Kazakh National University. Almaty – www.almaty.kz or www.expat.kz T his attractive city began its existence as Fort Verniy in 1854, but by the 20th century it had grown into the capital of the Kazakh territory of the Soviet Union, complete with wonderful architecture such as the Zenkov Cathedral and the Opera and Ballet Theatre. Almaty was the capital of independent Kazakhstan from 1991 to 1998, but although its role as administrative and political centre came to an end with the government’s shift to Astana, it has reinvented itself as the country’s financial centre, complete with a brand-new glassand-steel uptown business area, and it remains the cultural heart of 11 Kazakhstan. With broad, tree-lined boulevards, a more temperate climate than the open steppe, and the Tien Shan mountains on its doorstep – the immediate area has been made the Almaty Nature Reserve – this is still most people’s favourite city. Most large foreign and Kazakh companies have an office here, even if their main offices are in Astana, Atyrau or Karagandy, and many foreign embassies now based in Astana still keep consular offices here as well. For general and business information visit www.infokz.com Altai Mountains A small portion of the vast Altai mountain range extends into Kazakhstan in its far northeast, but this region is steeped in legend as it is the homeland of the Turkic nations, and ancient rock carvings and burial sites have been found here. Although not as high or dramatic as the Tien Shan, the immense biodiversity of the Altai has led the Worldwide Fund for Nature to name it on its list of 200 areas worldwide of exceptional natural value. Much of the Kazakh Altai has national park or nature reserve status. 12 Alternative Energy K azakhstan has huge potential in the fields of solar, wind and hydroelectric energy. Southern Kazakhstan benefits from a sunrich climate, and solar panel-based technology shows great promise – Kazatomprom’s Ulba Metal Mill is projected to produce 35Mw worth of solar panels annually, and remote areas in particular stand to benefit. The country’s wind-energy potential is estimated at 1.82 trillion kilowatt hours per year – the world’s largest per capita – because of the almost constant Buran wind that blows from Siberia across much of Kazakhstan in both summer and winter. Fifteen sites have been identified for large wind farms; the first major wind power stations are under construction in the Zhungar Gate and Chilik Corridor regions of southeast Kazakhstan, jointly funded by the GEF (Global Environmental Facility), the Kazakh Government and private investment. The target is to build 500Mw of installed wind power capacity by 2030. Hydroelectric power from dams is more advanced, but it still represents less than 10% of Kazakhstan’s electricity production, while wind and solar power contributes less than 1%. However, with the Government’s positive attitude to renewable energy programmes and its intention to wean the country off oil, gas and coal dependence, “green” energy is seen as a growth market. For more information, visit http:// en.government.kz Altyn Emel National Park – http://whc.unesco.org/en/ tentativelists/1682 S ituated on the right bank of the Ili River at the northeastern edge of Kapshagay Reservoir, this 4,600sq km area of scrub desert and rocky hills boasts herds of kulan (wild ass), goitred gazelle, argali sheep and many birds of prey. But its main attractions are the Singing 13 Sand Dunes, three kilometres of huge dunes that beg to be climbed for stunning panoramic views, and the Beshshatyr kurgans, an important collection of 31 Sak-era grave mounds or barrows, situated in the east of the park and dating to between the 6th and 3rd centuries BCE. The largest mounds are 105 metres in diameter and 17 metres high. Aral Sea – www.icwc-aral.uz O nce the world’s fourth largest inland sea (the size of Ireland), the story of the Aral Sea is a tragedy of mismanagement and grandiose plans gone wrong. The infamous Soviet “Virgin Lands programme”, designed to create huge cotton farms in the steppe using massive irrigation canals from the Amu Darya and Syr Darya rivers which fed the Aral Sea, not only failed dismally but spelled disaster for the Aral. Starved of water, both then and since – as demand on water resources has grown in the Central Asian countries – it has evaporated and almost disappeared. Only a brave decision by the Government to dam the northern section – now known as the North Aral Sea – from the main area in 14 the south has allowed this smaller expanse to begin to grow again, its return to better health creating a lifeline for the town of Aralsk on its north shore. Asia Cooperation Dialogue (ACD) – www.acddialogue.com C reated in 2002, the ACD is a continent-wide forum – the first of its kind – that aims to consolidate Asian strengths and fortify Asian competitiveness by maximising its diversity and rich resources. Cooperation takes place on projects in areas such as energy, agriculture, biotechnology, poverty alleviation and education. Kazakhstan joined the forum in 2003. Asian Winter Games – www.astana-almaty2011.kz K azakhstan’s largest multi-sporting event was hosted jointly in Astana and Almaty in January-February 2011. With a motto of “Unity of purpose – unity of spirit!” the Games was a great success, boasting 26 participating countries. Kazakhstan was the overall winner with a total of 70 medals. Astana – www.astana.kz T he capital city of Kazakhstan is only 13 years old in its present form, but lies on the site of an ancient settlement called Akmola that stood near a ford of the Esil (Ishim) River on a sub-branch of the ancient Silk Road. Many were perplexed when in 1998 President Nazarbayev moved his entire government to a small town in the middle of the Great Steppe, but his vision and relentless drive has resulted in an astonishing frenzy of city planning and construction that includes some truly world-class architectural wonders, from the grand Presidential Palace and the gleaming KazMunayGaz Building to the iconic Baiterek tower, the glass-pyramid Palace of Peace and Harmony, and the stunning Khan Shatyr, the world’s largest “tent”. Astana is the political and administrative heart of the country. Foreign embassies are 15 now located here, as are all governmental departments and institutions. For more information visit www. inform.kz Astana Economic Forum – www.aef.kz/en A n annual international economic forum hosted by the capital city, which attracts leaders from institutions such as the United Nations, the Food and Agriculture Organisation and the World Tourism Organisation, as well as Nobel Prize winners. In 2011 it focused on three key areas: Global Economy and Finance; Business and Investment; and Society and Sustainable Development, and has emerged as a significant platform for leaders from East and West to discuss global challenges. Atyrau – www.e-atyrau.kz S ituated astride the Ural (Oral) River in the northeast, Atyrau is the oil capital of Kazakhstan, a boomtown that is home to both local and foreign oil companies and a fair-sized expat community as a result. Construction continues at great pace, with a modern metropolis planned around an urban centre of parks, skyscrapers and shopping/ leisure centres. 16 B Baikonur Cosmodrome – www. russianspaceweb.com/baikonur.html T he world’s largest space launch facility was created by the Soviet Union in the 1950s and was the launch site of the famous first manned spaceflight by Yuri Gagarin in 1961. Situated in the deep desert steppe about 200km east of the Aral Sea, Baikonur is leased to Russia by the Kazakh Government and is managed by the Russian Federal Space Agency, but Kazakhstan operates its own National Space Agency – called KazKosmos – within the 90km x 85km area. In recent years a growing number of tourists have paid for guided tours to watch launches. For more information visit www.kazakhstan.orexca.com Baiterek T he most iconic landmark in Astana is Baiterek, a 97-metre observation tower set in the middle of a massive quadrangle that is flanked by many of the Government’s top administrative and business headquarters. Designed to look like a white tree trunk branching at the top to hold a golden egg from the mythical Samruk bird, it is a major tourist attraction, with stunning views from inside the golden globe. Balkhash Lake S ituated on the northern border of Zhetisu, the Land of Seven Rivers, Lake Balkhash is one of the largest lakes in Asia at 614km long, though it is very shallow, with a maximum depth of just 26 metres. The Ili River flows into it at its southwestern end, while the Karakol, Aksu and Lepsy rivers feed its eastern section. Unusually, the lake is freshwater in the west but saltwater in the east, divided by a narrow strait at the Saryesik Peninsula. The freshwater half is rich in fish life, and fishing is a major attraction. 17 Banking & Finance – www.minfin.kz/index.php?lang=eng K azakhstan has a two-tier banking system, with the National Bank of Kazakhstan (NBK) occupying the top tier and all other commercial banks and financial institutions the second. The global financial crisis of 2008 hit the country hard (though not as disastrously as elsewhere in the world) but swift, bold moves by the state holding company Samruk-Kazyna and tough measures by the NBK helped it to recover much faster than many more developed nations. Recapitalisation was possible from the government’s “rainy day” fund, and with the key oil and mining sectors growing healthily, Kazakhstan’s economy is in rude health, now backed by a better capitalised banking system. Almaty has been the target of heavy construction in creating a new business and finance district in the southern part of the city, and is set to become the main finance hub of Central Asia because of the country’s overall stability. Barsakelmes Nature Reserve B arsakelmes was once an island in the Aral Sea, and was designated a nature reserve to protect classic desert-steppe terrain and the flora and fauna living there, like saskaul and tamarisk trees, and kulan (wild ass), saiga antelope and dzheyran (steppe gazelles). Since the Aral Sea disappeared in this region it is now part of the mainland, but wildlife populations remain healthy. Bayanaul National Park L ocated 180km southwest of Pavlodar, halfway between Astana and Semey, this 450-squarekilometre national park is made up of beautiful hill steppe with massive rock formations and dense pine forests. 18 Big Almaty Lake T his man-made lake an hour’s drive to the south of Almaty is set like a jewel in beautiful alpine landscape, and is a popular picnic spot or campsite for hikers. It is 38 metres deep and perennially cold as it is fed by glacial meltwater from the surrounding mountains. Looming over it is the 3,681-metre Big Almaty Peak. Botai Culture R ecent excavation of Copper Age villages near Kokshetau in the Akmola Province north of Astana has revealed an important archaeological discovery. Strong evidence has shown that the people of the Botai culture both harnessed and milked horses here during the 4th millennium BCE – around 1,000 years earlier than previous accepted theories relating to horse domestication. This is therefore the earliest known place where man first mastered the horse – a momentous partnership that led to the rapid growth of human civilisation around the world. Building & Construction Industry W ith a solid foundation of capital from oil and mining revenues, Kazakhstan’s construction industry boomed in the early 2000s. However, the global financial crisis in 2008 caused a collapse in the industry that left numerous projects unfinished. By 2010 though, a recovery of pre-crisis confidence and stability had been seen, and in 2011 the state holding company Samruk-Kazyna announced a huge monetary allocation from the National Fund and government 19 reserves to ensure all construction projects are completed. The signs now look very positive for the future. Bukhtarma Reservoir A n enormous reservoir formed by the dam of the Bukhtarma Hydroelectric Power Plant on the Irtysh River in northeast Kazakhstan. It extends from Lake Zaysan into the Irtysh River Valley, is 500km long and 35km at its widest point, and is a popular fishing and water-sports destination. As well as providing vital electric power to the region, it regulates irrigation flows for the agricultural floodplains of the Semey and Pavlodar regions downstream. Burabay-Kokshetau National Park A small national park in the Kokshetau region a few hours north of Astana, Burabay is a mix of rolling steppe and forested uplands scattered with beautiful spring-fed lakes. It is marketed as “Little Switzerland”, and is a favourite leisure destination for Kazakhstanis because of its clean air, gorgeous woodlands and bizarre rock formations, which have given rise to many legends. Byelukha Mountain S acred to the shamanistic inhabitants who once lived here, Byelukha (meaning “white one”) is a twin-peaked mountain on the border 20 between Russia and far northeast Kazakhstan in the Katun range of the Altai Mountains. Its eastern peak is 4,506 metres above sea level, making it the Altai’s highest point. It is a popular trekking region due to its remoteness and pristine wilderness. C Caspian Depression T his low-lying flatland area encompasses the northern part of the Caspian Sea and stretches east to the Aral Sea. The Ural River flows across it from north to south, but much of this region is below sea level and it is mostly marshland or steppe – only a small proportion is used for agriculture. However, it is rich in oil and natural gas reserves – as well as archaeological heritage – and is therefore of great importance. Caspian Sea T he largest enclosed body of water on the planet, the Caspian Sea covers 371,000 square kilometres. The West Kazakhstan Province borders it on its northeastern shores, and the cities of Aktau and Atyrau are located on its coast. Kazakhstan’s territorial waters contain plentiful underground oil and natural gas reserves, and two major offshore oil fields (Kashagan and Kurmangazy) are in operation there. The Caspian Sea is also home to rare and important wildlife, such as the sturgeon – from which caviar comes – and the endangered Caspian seal. Central State Museum (Almaty) – www.heritagenet.unesco.kz L ocated in Almaty, this large museum houses 200,000 items of historical and cultural importance. Climate K azakhstan has a severe continental climate, thus winters are extremely cold, especially on the steppe, while summers can be 21 very hot and dry. However, in the mountain regions you can still have snow in July at high altitudes, and the Altai can receive rainfall while western regions are bone dry. Clothing (Traditional) T he kalpak is a felt hat with an upturned brim that is still sometimes worn outside the cities, but the traditional shapan (long coat) for men or kamsol (a woman’s waistcoat) – both decorated with beautiful embroidery in animal, floral or geometric motifs – are only seen at festivals. Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) – www.cis.minsk.by (Russian only) A regional organisation whose members are former Soviet republics. Though lacking any real supranational power, it nevertheless provides a focus for coordinating trade, finance, lawmaking and security between its 11 member states. Currency & Credit Cards – www.nationalbank.kz T he national currency is the tenge, which was introduced in 1993. In 2009 it was devalued by 20%, but has rallied strongly. Current exchange rates can be found daily at the National Bank’s website (shown above). All major credit cards are accepted at large hotels and upmarket shops, or wherever a label is shown in the window. However, it’s always a good idea to carry some cash – including small denomination notes – with you. 22 D Dastarkhan & Dining Etiquette D astarkhan means “dinner table”, and being invited to dine as an honoured guest is common but always a great privilege. There will be plenty of toasts from your hosts – but you will also be expected to make toasts of thanks too. Bring a small gift to a dinner party, and follow the custom at the end by cupping your hands in front of you, then lightly wiping them down your face – this is the traditional Omin, or Amen. Drinking T he love of alcohol is an imported “culture” from Russia, and you will be plied with vodka or brandy wherever you go. If you can keep up or control your intake then your hosts will be very happy, but for those who do not wish to drink it is perfectly acceptable to use tea as a substitute when making toasts. E Economic Cooperation Organization (ECO) – www.ecosecretariat.org T he ECO is an intergovernmental regional organisation created in 1985 by Turkey, Iran and Pakistan to promote economic, technical and cultural cooperation. In 1992 it expanded to include seven new members: Afghanistan, Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. It seeks to improve development, promote trade and investigate investment opportunities, with a main aim of establishing a single market for goods and services. 23 Economy K azakhstan’s main economy sector is oil and natural gas, and the country’s relative stability and financial strength is built on its impressive output figures and reserve estimates. However, the Government is spending the proceeds of this cash cow wisely by diversifying in key areas. It is developing its mining industry aggressively – it is now the world’s leading uranium exporter, and it has significant deposits of lead, zinc, chromium, manganese, copper and coal as well. Grain and livestock products are also major exports, while a policy of encouraging and educating a workforce skilled in the engineering, research and high technology fields is also aimed at producing a more balanced economic platform in the future. Ekibastuz T his town of 142,500 in Pavlodar Province is the site of one of the largest open-cast coal mines in the world – a 62-square-kilometre area around it contains 13 billion tons of coal. Two massive coalfired power plants provide electricity for a large area in northern Kazakhstan. 24 Electricity K azakhstan’s power network uses 220V and 50 Herz frequency. Electric plugs are the two-pin round type, EU standard. Ethnic Diversity K azakhstan is home to more than 100 ethnic groups, partly due to its location as a historical crossroads of human migration, but also because of Stalin’s wicked forced deportation policy during the 1930s. Kazakhs comprise roughly 64% of the population, with Russians the second largest ethnic grouping at around 24%. Other significant communities include Uzbeks, Kyrgyz, Uighurs, Tatars, Germans, Ukrainians, Poles, Koreans and Jews. Eurasian Economic Community (EAEC) – http://evrazes.com (Russian only) T he EAEC originated from a Customs Union between Kazakhstan, Russia and Belarus, and was established for the effective promotion of a Common Economic Space comprising the member states of Kazakhstan, Russia, Belarus, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan. By formalising a free trade regime with a unified customs tariff and coordinating social and economic reforms, they aim to integrate into the world economy and the international trade system. F Food K azakh food is heavily based around meat dishes, but fresh vegetables, dairy products, fruits and tasty bread are also enjoyed. Kumis is a fermented mare’s milk drink, shubat is fermented camel’s milk, and the classic Kazakh dish is beshparmak, a wonderfully filling meal of mutton, beef or horsemeat with onions, herbs, potatoes and square noodles cooked into a stew and served on a single platter. For more information visit http://aboutkazakhstan.com/aboutkazakhstan-food Foreign Investors’ Council (FIC) www.fic.kz C haired by President Nazarbayev, the FIC is an advisory body established to promote direct dialogue between the Government and foreign investors, to improve the efficiency of investment activities and enhance the investment climate in general. 25 Games (Traditional) G P hysical contests are popular in Kazahstan, including wrestling, archery and horsemanship. The bayga is straightforward saddleless horseracing across long distances by young boys. Kokpar (called buzkashi in other parts of Central Asia) is a sort of ferocious horseback rugby played by teams using a goat carcass. Kyz-kuu (“catch the girl”) is a horserace whereby a girl is chased by a group of boys all trying to catch her and give her a kiss at full gallop. When played on-on-one, if the boy fails to catch the girl by an agreed distance, she is allowed to whip him all the way back to the starting point, much to the onlookers’ amusement. Genghis Khan A lso known as Chinggis Khaan, the creator of the Mongol Empire – the largest the world has ever seen – swept across Central Asia in the early 13th century. First he conquered the Land of Seven Rivers, then moved on to Otrar and Samarkand to the southwest, and soon all of modern-day Kazakhstan’s territory was under his sway. On his death he divided the land between three of his sons, Juchi (northen Kazakhstan from Balkash and the Irtysh River to the Volga); Chaghadai (south and southeast into Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan); and Ogedei (northeast Zhetisu, Altai mountains and western Mongolia). From these divisions arose the Greater, Middle and Lesser Hordes – tribal confederations that, eventually, would lead to the concept of a united Kazakh nation in the 16th century. The Golden Man I n 1969 the Issyk Kurgan was excavated and Kazakhstan’s most famous archaeological discovery was made – the skeleton of a Sak prince or princess dressed in a warrior’s ornamental golden mail finely wrought with a variety of animals including winged horses, 26 snakes and leopards. It has been adopted as one of the symbols of modern-day Kazakhstan, and the original is housed in Astana, though a replica can be seen in Almaty’s State Central Museum entrance hall. Green Market (Almaty) J ust north of Panfilov Park in central Almaty, this bustling market is a must-visit destination for visitors. The main hall is full of stalls selling meat products, dried fruits, herbs, honey and flowers, with colourful merchants touting their wares. Outside, more stalls sell bread, clothing, tools, CDs, ice cream, snacks, etc. It is a sensory feast typical of Central Asian markets throughout the region. The market is closed on Mondays. H Handicrafts F elt rugs, hats and slippers make great souvenirs to take home, and leather items are also beautifully made. Jewellery is usually of silver intricately styled and set with semiprecious stones, and musical instruments like the dombra and kobyz are also popular. Holy Ascension Cathedral (Almaty) A lso called the Zenkov Cathedral, after the master builder from St Petersburg who designed and built it in 1907, this exquisite 56-metre-tall Russian Orthodox church in Almaty’s Panfilov Park 27 was constructed entirely of wood. Beautifully renovated first in the 1970s and then the 1990s, it was reopened for religious services in 1997, and is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Kazakhstan. Horses T he horse holds a very special place in the Kazakh psyche, given that their nomadic forbears could not have colonised and dominated the Eurasian steppes without domesticating and mastering horses. Such a crucial role in a people’s survival and success meant that horses were – and are – revered and coveted as prize possessions. Outside the cities, children in countryside communities can ride almost as soon as they can walk, and good horsemanship is an essential mark of a man. Horsemeat is also considered a delicacy, and is eaten boiled, cooked, or salted and dried. 28 Hunting H unting is in the blood for Kazakhs, and the introduction of official hunting seasons and delineated hunting reserves has not blunted their enthusiasm. Ducks and other water birds are shot on lakes, wild boars, wolves and gazelles are hunted on the open steppe and along rivers, while in the Tien Shan and Altai mountains there are limited quotas for such animals as maral (Siberian red deer), argali sheep and ibex. Hunting on horseback with eagles and tazy (saluki) dogs is an iconic feature of traditional Kazakh life. Those who train and hunt these birds are called berkutsche and are highly respected. Eagle hunters chase game such as hares, foxes, badgers, wolves and gazelles. I Ili River B eginning its journey in the Ili Kazakh Autonomous Prefecture of China’s Xinjiang Province, the Ili River runs for 1,439km – 815km of which is in Kazakhstan’s Zhetisu Province – to empty into Lake Balkhash in a vast delta of reeds and marshland. Along its course it passes through the Kapshagay Reservoir. The Ili is a popular destination for rafting tours in its middle reaches, and hunting and fishing in its delta area. 29 Ili-Alatau National Park T his is the most visited of all Kazakhstan’s national parks because of its proximity to Almaty, the country’s largest city. It stretches 120km from the Turgen Gorge in the east to the Shamalghan River in the west, while its north-south boundaries are the city’s southern suburbs and the ridge of high peaks of the Zailiyskiy Alatau. It is an alpine wonderland of 1,400 plant species and 240 vertebrate animals, including the mighty Tien Shan spruce, Tien Shan bears and snow leopards. Independence Day K azakhstan declared its independence from the USSR on 16 December 1991. This date was chosen by President Nazarbayev in memory of the hundreds of Kazakh students shot while protesting for more autonomy in Almaty’s main square on that day in 1986. Zheltoksan, or Independence Day, is a national public holiday and is celebrated proudly. Independence Square (Almaty) A huge open area in front of the old Presidential Palace in Almaty, Independence Square’s focal point is Independence Monument, a huge column topped by a statue of a Scythian warrior standing on a winged snow leopard and holding a bow and falcon. At its base is a semicircular set of reliefs depicting the history of Kazakhstan in carved stone panels, and a stone imprint of President Nazarbayev’s hand. Irtysh (Ertis) River A rising in the Altai Mountains in China’s Xinjiang Province, the Irtysh River enters 30 northeast Kazakhstan and flows into Lake Zaysan and the Bukhtarma Reservoir, before continuing on its 4,248km course to the Ob River in Russian Siberia. It flows through rich steppe and passes through the cities of Oskemen, Semey and Pavlodar. In ancient times the most northerly branch of the Silk Road passed along its banks. J T he sound “J” is usually transliterated in English as “Zh”, but you will sometimes see it used, for example the “Zhungar Gate” is also spelt “Junggar Gate”, and “Zhambyl” can also be spelt “Jambyl”. However, the most common usage remains “Zh”. K Kapshagay Reservoir A n artificial lake created by the Kapshagay Hydroelectric Power Plant in 1970 on the Ili River, Kapshagay Reservoir is over 100km long and up to 25km wide, and is a popular “riviera” destination for Almaty residents, being only 90km north of that city. A multimilliondollar resort complex is under development there, with an autobahn and improved infrastructure to cater for the large numbers expected to use it for a range of water sports and other leisure activities. Karagandy (Karaganda) – www.karaganda-akimat.kz (Russian and Kazakh only) T he fourth largest city in Kazakhstan with a population just under 500,000, Karagandy lies in the Central Steppe south of Astana, and is an industrial city established to exploit the huge coal reserves in the area. During the Stalin era prison camp labour was used to mine 31 the coal, and conditions were appalling, but today it is a pleasant place with a large central square and tree-lined avenues. Its railway station is one of the most important travel hubs in the country. Karatau Mountains T he Karatau, or Black Mountains, form the western tip of the Talas Alatau, stretching between Taraz and Shymkent northwest into the Moiynkum Desert. Due to a relative abundance of water from glacierfed rivers, these low mountains are rich in wildlife and archaeological sites from the Stone and Bronze ages, and a portion is protected as the Karatau Nature Reserve. People continue to be drawn to its natural wealth and it has a high population density; the language and culture of the Kazakhs is strong in this region. Kashagan Offshore Oilfield – www.kmg.kz/en T he Kashagan oilfield was discovered in 2000, one of the largest discoveries in the last 30 years. It lies under water on the northern shelf of the Caspian Sea south of Atyrau, covers an area of 5,500 square kilometres, and is estimated to contain 1,475.5 million tons of recoverable oil reserves. The environment for oil extraction is harsh and difficult, but it is scheduled to start commercial production by the end of 2012. It is owned by the state oil and gas company KazMunayGaz. Katon-Karagay National Park – http://katon-karagay.vko.gov.kz (Russian and Kazakh only) I n 2001 a 1,300-square-kilometre tract of land in the far northeastern corner of Kazakhstan was declared the Katon-Karagay National Park. It ranges from the borders of Russia and China to the northern slopes of the Sarymsaktiy and Tarbagatay mountains, and is incredibly 32 rich in biodiversity, covering hill steppe, taiga forest and high alpine slopes. One of the most beautiful regions Kazakhstan, this is a prime area for adventure tourism. Kazakh Khanate C onsidered a defining period in Kazakh history, during the 15th century three tribal confederations, known as the Senior, Middle and Lesser Hordes, occupied much of modern-day Kazakhstan’s territory. At this time they began to be called “Kazakh”, meaning “free” or “independent”, and in the 1450s the nomad lords Zhanibek (Janibek) and Kerei declared themselves free of the Khanate of Abulkhair in present-day Uzbekistan. In 1456 they proclaimed the Kazakh Khanate, laying the foundation for the first formation of a Kazakh state. 33 KazMunayGaz – www.kmg.kz/en T he state-owned oil and gas company KazMunayGaz (also spelt KazMunaiGaz) was formed in 2002 by the merger of Kazakhoil and Transport Nefti I Gaza. It owns 44 onshore oil and gas fields in the Mangistau and Atyrau regions covering an area of 837.4 square kilometres, and through subsidiary companies provides 65% of the oil transportation in Kazakhstan territory, 100% of its gas transportation and 50% of tanker transportation. It also runs major refineries within the country, selling petrochemicals for export. Through joint ventures it is involved in the offshore oilfields of the northern Caspian Sea, and the KazMunaiGaz Exploration and Production company is listed on both the Kazakhstan and London stock exchanges. Khan Shatyr – www.khanshatyr.com T he largest “tent” in the world was officially opened on 5 July, 2010. Khan Shatyr is an enormous entertainment complex designed by Foster and Partners; it uses a special transparent plastic compound that absorbs the sun and helps to keep the interior temperature at a constant moderate temperature, regardless of the outside conditions, which range from -35˚C to 40˚C throughout the year. It covers 140,000 square metres and at 150 metres tall is the highest tensile structure on the planet. A phenomenal architectural achievement, its multilevel interior contains an 34 urban-scale park, shopping and entertaining venues, a boating river, piazzas, cobbled streets and even an indoor beach resort. Khan Tengri I ts name means “Lord of Heaven”, a suitable moniker for Kazakhstan’s highest mountain, standing 7,010 metres above sea level. Khan Tengri marks the point where Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and China meet in the country’s far southeast. A picturesque pyramidal peak, it is surrounded by superb trekking country, and is a magnet for mountaineers. Khoja Ahmed Yasawi K hoja Ahmed Yasawi was an Islamic prophet, poet and mystic who founded the Sufi Tariqah order. Born in Sayram in 1094, he studied Islam, oriental literature and philosophy in Bukhara, but returned to Yassi (now named Turkistan) in today’s South Kazakhstan to teach the Koran in the Turkic language, thus spreading its word across the Kazakh Steppe. Highly revered, he was declared a saint while still alive. He died in 1166 and was buried with great honour (see Yasawi Mausoleum on page 75). Koktobe Hill (Almaty) – www.expat.kz T he “Green Hill” of Almaty lies just to the southeast of the city, a small rock outcrop of the Tien Shan mountains in the distance. A huge television tower is surrounded by a beautiful park that boasts cafés and restaurants, children’s entertainment, and viewpoints where a magnificent panorama shows 35 the city spread out below, with the mighty Tien Shan peaks stretching away to the horizon. Kolsay Lakes National Park S ituated on the northern slopes of the Kungey Alatau about 320km east of Almaty, the three Kolsay lakes boast breathtaking natural beauty and are a very popular camping and hiking weekend trip for Almaty locals. Made a national park in 2007, visitor numbers are limited to try to preserve the environment, which is rich in flora and fauna. Each lake is at a different altitude and all are surrounded by pristine alpine forest and meadows dissected by clear streams. 36 Korgalzhin-Tengiz Nature Reserve T his vast water basin among the central Kazakh hill country about 135km southwest of Astana contains a host of steppe lakes that draw tens of thousands of migratory and indigenous birds – around 330 species have been sighted here, making this a bird-watcher’s paradise. Combined with Naurzum Nature Reserve, 300km to the east, it comprises UNESCO’s “Saryarka – Steppe and Lakes of Northern Kazakhstan” World Heritage natural biosphere. Kostanay – www.kostanay.gov.kz (Russian only) T he capital of the province of the same name in northern Kazakhstan, Kostanay is principally a mining town processing the iron and bauxite ore, titanium, zirconium and gold that is mined in this area. It lies on the Tobol River, and the surrounding steppe was successfully turned into agricultural land during the 1950s. Today Kostanay is a prosperous and attractive city with a Russian flavour due to its proximity to the border. Kunanbayev, Abai (1845–1904) C onsidered the father of Kazakh literature, the self-named “Abai the Righteous” was born Ibrahim Kunanbayev, the son of a provincial lord in northeast Kazakhstan. He was sent to school in Semipalatinsk (Semey) where he mixed with exiled Russian intellectuals, and on returning to the steppe world of the nomads he dedicated his life’s work to Kazakh national self-consciousness. A proponent of education and moral integrity, he translated Russian literature into Kazakh, and wrote many original works, but the Book of Words was his literary and philosophical masterpiece – it provided a powerful impulse to the development of Kazakh writing. Kurgans T hese are large grave mounds marking the burial sites of ancient peoples. Kurgans have been discovered dating from the Eneolithic 37 38 or Copper Age right through to the Middle Ages, but in Kazakhstan the most famous kurgans are from the Sak (Scythian) era. Warriors and important individuals were buried with their most valuable treasures and possessions, including gold items and sacrificed horses. Superb examples of this have been unearthed in Zhetisu at Issyk Kurgan and in the Valley of Kings in Berel, East Kazakhstan. Kurmangazy Offshore Oilfield – www.kmg.kz/en/manufacturing/ upstream/kurmangazy T his extensive 1,632-square-kilometre oilfield, discovered under the sea floor in the Caspian Sea about 80km from the port of Bautino (near Fort Shevchenko) in Mangistau Province, has estimated reserves of 7–10 billion barrels of oil. An exploration well was drilled in 2006, but further exploration is under way before production can begin. Kyzylkum Desert K yzylkum means “Red Sand”, and this vast 300,000-squarekilometre desert in southern Kazakhstan stretches from the Syr Darya south and west into Uzbekistan, extending to the Amu Darya. It is a barren, inhospitable land of sand dunes only very sparsely populated, and what habitation exists is concentrated along rivers and at oases. Kyzylorda H istorically a major trading hub for caravan routes passing along the Syr Darya or crossing from Khiva and Bukhara to the north, a fortress outpost was established by the Russians in 1817, and Kyzylorda became the headquarters of the Russian governorate once it had conquered all of Central Asia. From 1925–29 it was the capital of Kazakhstan, but it fell on hard times; however, the development of the Kumkol oil field to the north has given it a new lease of life, and major investment in construction is returning the city to something of its former glory. L Language A lthough Kazakh is the state language of Kazakhstan, the lingua franca remains Russian. President Nazarbayev has tasked his entire government and people with becoming proficient in Russian, Kazakh and English by 2030, but this is a difficult proposition. For 39 now, English is spoken very little outside the obvious tourist centres, and Russian is by far the most useful language to know. However, learning some Kazakh phrases is definitely beneficial, and will bring you kudos from Kazakh friends and business associates. The 33-letter Russian Cyrillic alphabet is widely used, but the Kazakh Cyrillic alphabet has 42 letters – the nine extra letters for vowels and consonants that do not exist in Russian. Literature K azakh literature is founded in the oral tradition of storytelling and epic poetry that is so strong in nomadic culture. Starting with Abai Kunanbayev, a growing number of scholars began to commit local legends and folktales to the page, while writers such as Ibray Altynsarin and Chokan Valikhanov expanded on this to offer material provoking deep thought. The Stalin years were tragic for the Kazakh literary world, with humanist writers such as Seyfullin, Baytursinuly and Dulatov succumbing to the death camps. Fortunately, some survived, including Mukhtar Auezov, whose four-volume Abai’s Way offers an encyclopaedic view on Kazakh life. Ilyas Yesinberlin’s trilogy The Nomads tells the story of the Kazakh Khanate in thrilling form, while Chingis Aitmatov was a renowned social commentator famous for books such as The Day Lasts More Than a Hundred Years. From this base has grown a rich and broad-stroked literary culture boasting talented lyricists, essayists, playwrights and authors, many of whom – including Mukhtar Shakhanov and Dukenbay Doszhan – have had their work translated into dozens of languages. President Nursultan Nazarbayev himself is a talented and prolific writer. M Mangyshlak Peninsula T his chunk of land that juts out into the Caspian Sea is part of Mangistau Province in western Kazakhstan, and Aktau is its major city. It was populated in earlier times by the Lesser Horde of Kazakh nomads, but was