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“20 YEARS OF PEACE AND CREATION”
— Nursultan Nazarbayev
President of the Republic of Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan
Business & Culture
An A–Z Guide
By Jeremy Tredinnick
Produced in celebration of the
20th Anniversary of Independence of the
Republic of Kazakhstan
Foreword
T
his year Kazakhstan is celebrating the 20th anniversary of its
independence. During the first and the most challenging decade of
its sovereignty our nation strove towards progress and modernisation
courtesy of the spirit, persistence and enthusiasm of its people, thus
having embarked on its own “Kazakhstan way” of development,
maintaining the core values of Freedom, Unity, Stability and Prosperity.
Consistent efforts of the government in the second decade have
brought fruitful results to the country. Blessed with huge natural
resources, we have carefully but swiftly grown into a modern
and dynamic nation with a vibrant economy and an international
reputation as a valuable global partner, contributing to international
peace and stability ranging from non-proliferation to energy security,
religious tolerance and coexistence. As the current Chairman of the
38th Session of the Council of Foreign Ministers of the Organisation of
Islamic Cooperation (OIC) and the former Chair of the Organization
for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE), Kazakhstan today
plays an important role in the international arena.
As a matter of fact, Kazakhstan’s economy is mostly based on
the energy and mining sectors. The introduction of the Strategic
Development Plan for 2020 under the motto “Modernisation,
People’s Wellbeing, Innovation and Integration”, however, enables the
country to diversify and develop in a wide range of other fields, from
high technology to innovative research and development. As such,
Kazakhstan presents a wide array of business opportunities.
This book aims to provide a brief insight into many aspects
of Kazakhstan, providing information about business, industry,
infrastructure and the major tourism and cultural attractions of our
beautiful country. I hope the reader will find it both enjoyable and
informative.
Yerzhan Kazykhanov
Minister of Foreign Affairs of the
Republic of Kazakhstan
Introduction
I
n 2011 Kazakhstan celebrates the 20th Anniversary of its
Independence. In international terms it is still a relatively young
nation, yet in only two decades it has risen further and faster than
any other Eurasian country, leveraging its vast natural resources in
combination with astute, foresighted government to modernise and
develop rapidly on the socioeconomic and geopolitical stage.
President Nursultan Nazarbayev has focused on creating a stable
and forward-thinking country that is able and willing to fulfil a role as
pioneer, partner, intermediary or leader across a range of fields, from
economic and political to religious and environmental. To this end,
Kazakhstan has been very proactive in a large number of international
organisations. In January 2010 it took over the Chairmanship of the
Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe (OSCE); in June
2011 it accepted the Chairmanship of the Organisation of Islamic
Cooperation (OIC); and it is heavily involved in the increasingly
influential Shanghai Cooperation Organization (SCO).
Kazakhstan has emerged as Central Asia’s economic and political
leader, and garners a constantly growing reputation as the voice of
reason, wisdom and experience across a broad range of issues on the
global stage. In many ways this central, often pivotal role parallels its
geographical location at the heart of Eurasia. Covering an area larger
than all of Western Europe, it occupies a strategic position astride the
worlds of both East and West, linked to both by geography, a rich
multicultural heritage, and today through an increasing importance in
the energy and other economic sectors.
As it develops its vast oil and natural gas resources, pipelines
stretch north into Russia, west to Mediterranean ports for transport
to European markets, and east into China, with whom Kazakhstan
has a flourishing strategic partnership, supplying the booming energy
needs of Beijing, Shanghai and even Guangzhou, many thousands of
kilometres away. It is the world’s top uranium producer, has a diverse
and booming
mining industry,
and also serves as
a vital overland
bridge for both
railways and
highways – an
intrinsic part of
the New Eurasian
Land Bridge
that provides
an important
economic corridor
for the modern
world.
All this comes
at a time when a
new generation
of Kazakhstanis
reach voting age
– a generation
born into an
independent
Kazakhstan, with
no memory of
the hardships of
old. This new wave of young people are well educated, progressive in
their attitudes, sophisticated and modern in outlook, and will inherit
a Kazakhstan ripe with potential to become one of the world’s leading
nations.
President Nursultan Nazarbayev understands this, and in his
seminal book The Kazakhstan Way he says: “I devote this book to
our young generation – a special generation. You have been born and
are maturing in an independent Kazakhstan already. The time of your
youth is the time of our country’s rising and blossoming. You have
absorbed the spirit of achievement and success. Your destinies will
define the destiny of our country.”
In just 20 years Kazakhstan has modernised and developed to
an amazing extent, whilst remaining true to the fundamental values
of “Freedom, Unity, Stability and Prosperity”. With its Government
committed to building a diversified, highly technological, flexible and
competitive economy with a high value-added component, following
a motto of “Modernisation, People’s Wellbeing, Innovation and
Integration”, the next two decades look very bright indeed.
Jeremy Tredinnick, August 2011
Acknowledgement & Thanks
This book could not have been realised without the generous support
and valuable contributions of Consul General Nurzhan Abdymomunov
and his staff at the Consulate General of the Republic of Kazakhstan in
Hong Kong and Macao.
7
A
Ablai Khan
T
he leader of central and northern Kazakhstan’s Middle Horde
in the 18th century, Ablai Khan played an important role in the
unification of the three Kazakh hordes at a time when the region was
threatened by the Zhungars, a Mongol group from the east. He swore
allegiance to Russia and requested integration to protect his people from
the rampant Zhungars, and this opened the door for the inexorable
advance of the Russian Empire into Central Asia in the 19th century.
Air Travel – www.airastana.com
K
azakhstan has an extensive network
of 54 airports, 12 of which cater
to international flights (many to Russia
and Germany from the northern oil and
mining cities). The three main international hubs are Astana, Almaty
and Atyrau – the centre of government, tourism and the oil industry
respectively (although by no means exclusively).
The national carrier is Air Astana, which operates international
routes to Moscow, St Petersburg, Samara, Yekaterinburg, Amsterdam,
Hanover, Frankfurt, London, Istanbul, Antalya, T’Blisi, Baku, Abu
Dhabi, Dushanbe, Tashkent, Delhi, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, Urumqi,
Beijing and Seoul. More than a dozen foreign airlines also fly into/out
of the country, including KLM, Lufthansa, Turkish Airlines and Asiana
Airlines.
Distances are often so great within Kazakhstan that travel between
cities is only practical by air. Air Astana has a comprehensive domestic
network, which operates alongside a number of other small Kazakh
domestic airlines such as SCAT Air (www.scat.kz) and Euro-Asia Air
(www.euroasiaair.kz).
8
Aksu-Zhabagly Nature
Reserve – www.aksuzhabagly.com
A
superb protected
mountain region
near Shymkent in South
Kazakhstan that is home to
a rich variety of flower and
plant life, many bird species
and mammals such as the
lynx, snow leopard, Tien Shan
bear and argali sheep. Huge,
steep-sided gorges such as the
Aksu and Zhulsaly canyons
make this an excellent horse
riding or trekking destination.
Aktau – www.aktaubusiness.com
L
ocated on the coast of the
Caspian Sea, this young
city’s name means “White
Mountain”, a nod to the white
chalk cliffs upon which it was
built in the late 1950s after oil
was discovered in the desert hinterlands of the Mangystau Province.
Today it is still predominantly associated with the oil/gas and mining
industries, but a new vision has been created for it, and a master
plan to create a new Aktau titled the “City of Energy” is in motion.
Comprising a complete makeover that will cost dozens of billions of US
dollars, this new metropolis will not only be a high-rise centre of the
region’s energy infrastructure, but will capitalise on its coastal location
to become a centre for tourism, a “Kazakhstan on Sea” destination
where sun, sea and sand allow for beach-style resort holidays and water
sports in the clear, unpolluted waters of the Caspian Sea.
9
Aktobe
H
istorically this city was a fortress on the frontier between the
Russian Empire and the Kazakh Khanate, but today it is an
industrial centre of metallurgy, chrome smelting and petrochemicals.
Located on the plains near the southern foothills of the Ural
Mountains, it is surrounded by grass steppe scattered with salt lakes,
and is an important rail junction within the country and from/to
Russia.
Alakol Lake
A
lakol is the largest of four salt lakes in the Alakol Depression, a
barren landscape in far eastern Kazakhstan near the border with
China at the Zhungar Gate. Alakol measures 104km long, 54km wide
and up to 54 metres deep, and its unpolluted salty water is considered
to have great curative powers, hence the small number of health resorts
on its shore. Parts of this lake system have been protected as the Alakol
Nature Reserve, since the reed-lined shores of the lakes are home to
more than 200 bird species, including pelicans, bustards, herons and
divers.
Alatau Mountain Ranges
T
wo mountain spurs comprise the northern section of the Tien Shan
range between Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan: the Zailiyskiy Alatau
and the Kungey Alatau. The Zailiyskiy Alatau is the most northerly
and closest to Almaty; it runs about 350km west-east, with peaks rising
to just under 5,000 metres. The central section of deep, forested valleys
and high meadows and peaks is protected as the Ile-Alatau National
Park. Behind this range and to the east is the Kungey Alatau, much of
which is in Kyrgyzstan
but which extends into
Kazakhstan eastwards
to Kegen and the
Khan Tengri Massif.
The rich alpine flora
and fauna of these
mountains, their great
beauty and proximity
to Almaty make them a
playground for Kazakhs
seeking an escape from
the city.
Al-Farabi
A
l-Farabi lived in the
9th-10th centuries
in the renowned city
of Otrar in modernday South Kazakhstan
Province, and was
called the “second
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Aristotle”. He spent years in centres of learning such as Baghdad,
Aleppo, Cairo and Damascus, where he studied science, philosophy,
the concept of faith, and the teachings of the Greek philosophers Plato,
Aristotle, Pythagoras and Ptolemy. He used his remarkable knowledge
creatively to publish a world of ideas on virtually every scientific and
philosophical subject. His name graces Kazakhstan’s pre-eminent
scientific institute – the Al-Farabi Kazakh National University.
Almaty – www.almaty.kz or www.expat.kz
T
his attractive city began its existence as Fort Verniy in 1854, but
by the 20th century it had grown into the capital of the Kazakh
territory of the Soviet Union, complete with wonderful architecture
such as the Zenkov Cathedral and the Opera and Ballet Theatre.
Almaty was the capital of independent Kazakhstan from 1991 to
1998, but although its role as administrative and political centre came
to an end with the government’s shift to Astana, it has reinvented itself
as the country’s financial centre, complete with a brand-new glassand-steel uptown business area, and it remains the cultural heart of
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Kazakhstan. With broad, tree-lined boulevards, a more temperate
climate than the open steppe, and the Tien Shan mountains on its
doorstep – the immediate area has been made the Almaty Nature
Reserve – this is still most people’s favourite city. Most large foreign
and Kazakh companies have an office here, even if their main offices
are in Astana, Atyrau or Karagandy, and many foreign embassies now
based in Astana still keep consular offices here as well. For general and
business information visit www.infokz.com
Altai Mountains
A
small portion of the vast Altai mountain range extends into
Kazakhstan in its far northeast, but this region is steeped in
legend as it is the homeland of the Turkic nations, and ancient rock
carvings and burial sites have been found here. Although not as high
or dramatic as the Tien Shan, the immense biodiversity of the Altai has
led the Worldwide Fund for Nature to name it on its list of 200 areas
worldwide of exceptional natural value. Much of the Kazakh Altai has
national park or nature reserve status.
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Alternative Energy
K
azakhstan has huge potential in the fields of solar, wind and
hydroelectric energy. Southern Kazakhstan benefits from a sunrich climate, and solar panel-based technology shows great promise –
Kazatomprom’s Ulba Metal Mill is projected to produce 35Mw
worth of solar panels annually, and remote areas in particular stand
to benefit.
The country’s wind-energy potential is estimated at 1.82 trillion
kilowatt hours per year – the world’s largest per capita – because
of the almost constant Buran wind that blows from Siberia across
much of Kazakhstan in both summer and winter. Fifteen sites have
been identified for large wind farms; the first major wind power
stations are under construction in the Zhungar Gate and Chilik
Corridor regions of southeast Kazakhstan, jointly funded by the GEF
(Global Environmental Facility), the Kazakh Government and private
investment. The target is to build 500Mw of installed wind power
capacity by 2030.
Hydroelectric power from dams is more advanced, but it still
represents less than 10% of Kazakhstan’s electricity production, while
wind and solar power contributes less than 1%. However, with the
Government’s positive attitude to renewable energy programmes and its
intention to wean the country off oil, gas and coal dependence, “green”
energy is seen as a growth market. For more information, visit http://
en.government.kz
Altyn Emel National Park – http://whc.unesco.org/en/
tentativelists/1682
S
ituated on the right bank of the Ili River at the northeastern edge
of Kapshagay Reservoir, this 4,600sq km area of scrub desert and
rocky hills boasts herds of kulan (wild ass), goitred gazelle, argali
sheep and many birds of prey. But its main attractions are the Singing
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Sand Dunes, three kilometres of huge dunes that beg to be climbed for
stunning panoramic views, and the Beshshatyr kurgans, an important
collection of 31 Sak-era grave mounds or barrows, situated in the east
of the park and dating to between the 6th and 3rd centuries BCE. The
largest mounds are 105 metres in diameter and 17 metres high.
Aral Sea – www.icwc-aral.uz
O
nce the world’s fourth largest inland sea (the size of Ireland),
the story of the Aral Sea is a tragedy of mismanagement and
grandiose plans gone wrong. The infamous Soviet “Virgin Lands
programme”, designed to create huge cotton farms in the steppe using
massive irrigation canals from the Amu Darya and Syr Darya rivers
which fed the Aral Sea, not only failed dismally but spelled disaster for
the Aral. Starved of water, both then and since – as demand on water
resources has grown in the Central Asian countries – it has evaporated
and almost disappeared.
Only a brave decision by the Government to dam the northern
section – now known as the North Aral Sea – from the main area in
14
the south has allowed this smaller expanse to begin to grow again, its
return to better health creating a lifeline for the town of Aralsk on its
north shore.
Asia Cooperation Dialogue (ACD) – www.acddialogue.com
C
reated in 2002, the ACD is a continent-wide forum – the first
of its kind – that aims to consolidate Asian strengths and
fortify Asian competitiveness by maximising its diversity and rich
resources. Cooperation takes place on projects in areas such as
energy, agriculture, biotechnology, poverty alleviation and education.
Kazakhstan joined the forum in 2003.
Asian Winter Games – www.astana-almaty2011.kz
K
azakhstan’s largest multi-sporting event was hosted jointly in
Astana and Almaty in January-February 2011. With a motto of
“Unity of purpose – unity of spirit!” the Games was a great success,
boasting 26 participating countries. Kazakhstan was the overall winner
with a total of 70 medals.
Astana – www.astana.kz
T
he capital city of Kazakhstan is only 13 years old in its present
form, but lies on the site of an ancient settlement called Akmola
that stood near a ford of the Esil (Ishim) River on a sub-branch of
the ancient Silk Road. Many were perplexed when in 1998 President
Nazarbayev moved his entire government to a small town in the
middle of the Great Steppe, but his vision and relentless drive has
resulted in an astonishing frenzy of city planning and construction that
includes some truly world-class architectural wonders, from the grand
Presidential Palace and the gleaming KazMunayGaz Building to the
iconic Baiterek tower, the glass-pyramid Palace of Peace and Harmony,
and the stunning Khan Shatyr, the world’s largest “tent”. Astana is the
political and administrative heart of the country. Foreign embassies are
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now located here, as are all
governmental departments
and institutions. For more
information visit www.
inform.kz
Astana Economic
Forum – www.aef.kz/en
A
n annual international
economic forum
hosted by the capital city,
which attracts leaders
from institutions such as
the United Nations, the
Food and Agriculture
Organisation and the World
Tourism Organisation,
as well as Nobel Prize
winners. In 2011 it focused
on three key areas: Global
Economy and Finance;
Business and Investment;
and Society and Sustainable
Development, and has
emerged as a significant
platform for leaders from
East and West to discuss global challenges.
Atyrau – www.e-atyrau.kz
S
ituated astride the Ural (Oral) River in the northeast, Atyrau is
the oil capital of Kazakhstan, a boomtown that is home to both
local and foreign oil companies and a fair-sized expat community as a
result. Construction continues at great pace, with a modern metropolis
planned around an urban centre of parks, skyscrapers and shopping/
leisure centres.
16
B
Baikonur Cosmodrome – www.
russianspaceweb.com/baikonur.html
T
he world’s largest space launch
facility was created by the Soviet
Union in the 1950s and was the launch
site of the famous first manned spaceflight
by Yuri Gagarin in 1961. Situated in
the deep desert steppe about 200km
east of the Aral Sea, Baikonur is leased
to Russia by the Kazakh Government
and is managed by the Russian Federal
Space Agency, but Kazakhstan operates
its own National Space Agency – called
KazKosmos – within the 90km x 85km
area. In recent years a growing number
of tourists have paid for guided tours to
watch launches. For more information
visit www.kazakhstan.orexca.com
Baiterek
T
he most iconic landmark in Astana is Baiterek, a 97-metre
observation tower set in the middle of a massive quadrangle that is
flanked by many of the Government’s top administrative and business
headquarters. Designed to look like a white tree trunk branching at the
top to hold a golden egg from the mythical Samruk bird, it is a major
tourist attraction, with stunning
views from inside the golden
globe.
Balkhash Lake
S
ituated on the northern
border of Zhetisu, the Land
of Seven Rivers, Lake Balkhash
is one of the largest lakes in Asia
at 614km long, though it is very
shallow, with a maximum depth
of just 26 metres. The Ili River
flows into it at its southwestern
end, while the Karakol, Aksu
and Lepsy rivers feed its eastern
section. Unusually, the lake
is freshwater in the west but
saltwater in the east, divided by
a narrow strait at the Saryesik
Peninsula. The freshwater half is
rich in fish life, and fishing is a
major attraction.
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Banking & Finance – www.minfin.kz/index.php?lang=eng
K
azakhstan has a two-tier banking system, with the National
Bank of Kazakhstan (NBK) occupying the top tier and all
other commercial banks and financial institutions the second. The
global financial crisis of 2008 hit the country hard (though not as
disastrously as elsewhere in the world) but swift, bold moves by the
state holding company Samruk-Kazyna and tough measures by the
NBK helped it to recover much faster than many more developed
nations. Recapitalisation was possible from the government’s “rainy
day” fund, and with the key oil and mining sectors growing healthily,
Kazakhstan’s economy is in rude health, now backed by a better
capitalised banking system.
Almaty has been the target of heavy construction in creating a
new business and finance district in the southern part of the city, and
is set to become the main finance hub of Central Asia because of the
country’s overall stability.
Barsakelmes Nature Reserve
B
arsakelmes was once an island in the Aral Sea, and was designated
a nature reserve to protect classic desert-steppe terrain and the flora
and fauna living there, like saskaul and tamarisk trees, and kulan (wild
ass), saiga antelope and dzheyran (steppe gazelles). Since the Aral Sea
disappeared in this region it is now part of the mainland, but wildlife
populations remain healthy.
Bayanaul National Park
L
ocated 180km
southwest of
Pavlodar, halfway
between Astana and
Semey, this 450-squarekilometre national park
is made up of beautiful
hill steppe with massive
rock formations and
dense pine forests.
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Big Almaty Lake
T
his man-made lake an hour’s drive to the south of Almaty is set
like a jewel in beautiful alpine landscape, and is a popular picnic
spot or campsite for hikers. It is 38 metres deep and perennially cold
as it is fed by glacial meltwater from the surrounding mountains.
Looming over it is the 3,681-metre Big Almaty Peak.
Botai Culture
R
ecent excavation of Copper Age villages near Kokshetau in the
Akmola Province north of Astana has revealed an important
archaeological discovery. Strong evidence has shown that the people of
the Botai culture both harnessed and milked horses here during the 4th
millennium BCE – around 1,000 years earlier than previous accepted
theories relating to horse domestication. This is therefore the earliest
known place where man first mastered the horse – a momentous
partnership that led to the rapid
growth of human civilisation
around the world.
Building & Construction
Industry
W
ith a solid foundation
of capital from oil and
mining revenues, Kazakhstan’s
construction industry boomed
in the early 2000s. However, the
global financial crisis in 2008
caused a collapse in the industry
that left numerous projects
unfinished. By 2010 though, a
recovery of pre-crisis confidence
and stability had been seen, and
in 2011 the state holding company
Samruk-Kazyna announced a
huge monetary allocation from the
National Fund and government
19
reserves to ensure all construction projects are completed. The signs
now look very positive for the future.
Bukhtarma Reservoir
A
n enormous reservoir formed by the dam of the Bukhtarma
Hydroelectric Power Plant on the Irtysh River in northeast
Kazakhstan. It extends from Lake Zaysan into the Irtysh River Valley,
is 500km long and 35km at its widest point, and is a popular fishing
and water-sports destination. As well as providing vital electric
power to the region, it regulates irrigation flows for the agricultural
floodplains of the Semey and Pavlodar regions downstream.
Burabay-Kokshetau National Park
A
small national
park in the
Kokshetau region
a few hours north
of Astana, Burabay
is a mix of rolling
steppe and forested
uplands scattered
with beautiful
spring-fed lakes.
It is marketed as
“Little Switzerland”,
and is a favourite
leisure destination
for Kazakhstanis
because of its clean air, gorgeous woodlands and bizarre rock
formations, which have given rise to many legends.
Byelukha Mountain
S
acred to the shamanistic inhabitants who once lived here, Byelukha
(meaning “white one”) is a twin-peaked mountain on the border
20
between Russia and far northeast Kazakhstan in the Katun range of
the Altai Mountains. Its eastern peak is 4,506 metres above sea level,
making it the Altai’s highest point. It is a popular trekking region due
to its remoteness and pristine wilderness.
C
Caspian Depression
T
his low-lying flatland area encompasses the northern part of the
Caspian Sea and stretches east to the Aral Sea. The Ural River
flows across it from north to south, but much of this region is below
sea level and it is mostly marshland or steppe – only a small proportion
is used for agriculture. However, it is rich in oil and natural gas
reserves – as well as archaeological heritage – and is therefore of great
importance.
Caspian Sea
T
he largest enclosed body of water on the planet, the Caspian Sea
covers 371,000 square kilometres. The West Kazakhstan Province
borders it on its northeastern shores, and the cities of Aktau and
Atyrau are located on its coast. Kazakhstan’s territorial waters contain
plentiful underground oil and natural gas reserves, and two major
offshore oil fields (Kashagan and Kurmangazy) are in operation there.
The Caspian Sea is also home to rare and important wildlife, such as
the sturgeon – from which caviar comes – and the endangered Caspian
seal.
Central State Museum (Almaty) – www.heritagenet.unesco.kz
L
ocated in Almaty, this large museum houses 200,000 items of
historical and cultural importance.
Climate
K
azakhstan has a severe continental climate, thus winters are
extremely cold, especially on the steppe, while summers can be
21
very hot and dry. However, in the mountain regions you can still have
snow in July at high altitudes, and the Altai can receive rainfall while
western regions are bone dry.
Clothing (Traditional)
T
he kalpak is a felt hat with an upturned brim that is still sometimes
worn outside the cities, but the traditional shapan (long coat) for
men or kamsol (a woman’s waistcoat) – both decorated with beautiful
embroidery in animal, floral or geometric motifs – are only seen at
festivals.
Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) – www.cis.minsk.by
(Russian only)
A
regional organisation whose members are
former Soviet republics. Though lacking any real
supranational power, it nevertheless provides a focus
for coordinating trade, finance, lawmaking and security
between its 11 member states.
Currency & Credit Cards – www.nationalbank.kz
T
he national currency is the tenge, which was introduced in 1993.
In 2009 it was devalued by 20%, but has rallied strongly. Current
exchange rates can
be found daily at the
National Bank’s website
(shown above). All
major credit cards are
accepted at large hotels
and upmarket shops,
or wherever a label is
shown in the window.
However, it’s always a
good idea to carry some
cash – including small
denomination notes –
with you.
22
D
Dastarkhan & Dining Etiquette
D
astarkhan means “dinner table”, and being invited to dine as an
honoured guest is common but always a great privilege. There
will be plenty of toasts from your hosts – but you will also be expected
to make toasts of thanks too. Bring a small gift to a dinner party, and
follow the custom at the end by cupping your hands in front of you,
then lightly wiping them down your face – this is the traditional Omin,
or Amen.
Drinking
T
he love of alcohol is an imported “culture” from Russia, and you
will be plied with vodka or brandy wherever you go. If you can
keep up or control your intake then your hosts will be very happy, but
for those who do not wish to drink it is perfectly acceptable to use tea
as a substitute when making toasts.
E
Economic Cooperation Organization (ECO) –
www.ecosecretariat.org
T
he ECO is an intergovernmental regional
organisation created in 1985 by Turkey, Iran and
Pakistan to promote economic, technical and cultural
cooperation. In 1992 it expanded to include seven
new members: Afghanistan, Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan,
Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan. It seeks to
improve development, promote trade and investigate investment
opportunities, with a main aim of establishing a single market for
goods and services.
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Economy
K
azakhstan’s main economy sector is oil and natural gas, and
the country’s relative stability and financial strength is built
on its impressive output figures and reserve estimates. However,
the Government is spending the proceeds of this cash cow wisely
by diversifying in key areas. It is developing its mining industry
aggressively – it is now the world’s leading uranium exporter, and it
has significant deposits of lead, zinc, chromium, manganese, copper
and coal as well. Grain and livestock products are also major exports,
while a policy of encouraging and educating a workforce skilled in
the engineering, research and high technology fields is also aimed at
producing a more balanced economic platform in the future.
Ekibastuz
T
his town of 142,500 in Pavlodar Province is the site of one of the
largest open-cast coal mines in the world – a 62-square-kilometre
area around it contains 13 billion tons of coal. Two massive coalfired power plants provide electricity for a large area in northern
Kazakhstan.
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Electricity
K
azakhstan’s power network uses 220V and 50 Herz frequency.
Electric plugs are the two-pin round type, EU standard.
Ethnic Diversity
K
azakhstan is home to more than 100 ethnic groups, partly due to
its location as a historical crossroads of human migration, but also
because of Stalin’s wicked forced deportation policy during the 1930s.
Kazakhs comprise roughly 64% of the population, with Russians
the second largest ethnic grouping at around 24%. Other significant
communities include Uzbeks, Kyrgyz, Uighurs, Tatars, Germans,
Ukrainians, Poles, Koreans and Jews.
Eurasian Economic Community (EAEC) – http://evrazes.com
(Russian only)
T
he EAEC originated from a Customs Union
between Kazakhstan, Russia and Belarus, and
was established for the effective promotion of a
Common Economic Space comprising the member
states of Kazakhstan, Russia, Belarus, Kyrgyzstan
and Tajikistan. By formalising a free trade regime with a unified
customs tariff and coordinating social and economic reforms, they aim
to integrate into the world economy and the international trade system.
F
Food
K
azakh food is heavily based around
meat dishes, but fresh vegetables, dairy
products, fruits and tasty bread are also
enjoyed. Kumis is a fermented mare’s milk
drink, shubat is fermented camel’s milk, and
the classic Kazakh dish is beshparmak, a
wonderfully filling meal of mutton, beef or
horsemeat with onions, herbs, potatoes and
square noodles cooked into a stew and served
on a single platter. For more information
visit http://aboutkazakhstan.com/aboutkazakhstan-food
Foreign Investors’ Council (FIC) www.fic.kz
C
haired by President Nazarbayev, the FIC is an advisory body
established to promote direct dialogue between the Government
and foreign investors, to improve the efficiency of investment activities
and enhance the
investment climate
in general.
25
Games (Traditional)
G
P
hysical contests are popular in Kazahstan, including wrestling,
archery and horsemanship. The bayga is straightforward saddleless
horseracing across long
distances by young
boys. Kokpar (called
buzkashi in other parts
of Central Asia) is a sort
of ferocious horseback
rugby played by teams
using a goat carcass.
Kyz-kuu (“catch the
girl”) is a horserace
whereby a girl is chased
by a group of boys all
trying to catch her and
give her a kiss at full
gallop. When played on-on-one, if the boy fails to catch the girl by an
agreed distance, she is allowed to whip him all the way back to the
starting point, much to the onlookers’ amusement.
Genghis Khan
A
lso known as Chinggis Khaan, the creator
of the Mongol Empire – the largest the
world has ever seen – swept across Central Asia
in the early 13th century. First he conquered
the Land of Seven Rivers, then moved on to
Otrar and Samarkand to the southwest, and
soon all of modern-day Kazakhstan’s territory
was under his sway. On his death he divided the
land between three of his sons, Juchi (northen
Kazakhstan from Balkash and the Irtysh River
to the Volga); Chaghadai (south and southeast
into Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan); and
Ogedei (northeast Zhetisu, Altai mountains and
western Mongolia). From these divisions arose
the Greater, Middle and Lesser Hordes – tribal
confederations that, eventually, would lead to
the concept of a united Kazakh nation in the
16th century.
The Golden Man
I
n 1969 the Issyk Kurgan was excavated and
Kazakhstan’s most famous archaeological
discovery was made – the skeleton of a Sak
prince or princess dressed in a warrior’s
ornamental golden mail finely wrought with
a variety of animals including winged horses,
26
snakes and leopards. It has been adopted as one of the symbols of
modern-day Kazakhstan, and the original is housed in Astana, though
a replica can be seen in Almaty’s State Central Museum entrance hall.
Green Market (Almaty)
J
ust north of Panfilov Park in central Almaty, this bustling market
is a must-visit destination for visitors. The main hall is full of stalls
selling meat products,
dried fruits, herbs,
honey and flowers, with
colourful merchants
touting their wares.
Outside, more stalls sell
bread, clothing, tools,
CDs, ice cream, snacks,
etc. It is a sensory feast
typical of Central Asian
markets throughout the
region. The market is
closed on Mondays.
H
Handicrafts
F
elt rugs, hats and
slippers make great
souvenirs to take home,
and leather items are
also beautifully made.
Jewellery is usually
of silver intricately
styled and set with
semiprecious stones, and
musical instruments like
the dombra and kobyz
are also popular.
Holy Ascension
Cathedral (Almaty)
A
lso called the
Zenkov Cathedral,
after the master builder
from St Petersburg who
designed and built it
in 1907, this exquisite
56-metre-tall Russian
Orthodox church in
Almaty’s Panfilov Park
27
was constructed entirely of wood. Beautifully renovated first in the
1970s and then the 1990s, it was reopened for religious services in
1997, and is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Kazakhstan.
Horses
T
he horse holds a very special place in the Kazakh psyche, given that
their nomadic forbears could not have colonised and dominated
the Eurasian steppes without domesticating and mastering horses.
Such a crucial role in a people’s survival and success meant that horses
were – and are – revered and coveted as prize possessions. Outside the
cities, children in countryside communities can ride almost as soon as
they can walk, and good horsemanship is an essential mark of a man.
Horsemeat is also considered a delicacy, and is eaten boiled, cooked, or
salted and dried.
28
Hunting
H
unting is in the blood for Kazakhs, and the introduction of
official hunting seasons and delineated hunting reserves has not
blunted their enthusiasm. Ducks and other water birds are shot on
lakes, wild boars, wolves and gazelles are hunted on the open steppe
and along rivers, while in the Tien Shan and Altai mountains there
are limited quotas for such animals as maral (Siberian red deer), argali
sheep and ibex.
Hunting on horseback with eagles and tazy (saluki) dogs is an
iconic feature of traditional Kazakh life. Those who train and hunt
these birds are called berkutsche and are highly respected. Eagle
hunters chase game such as hares, foxes, badgers, wolves and gazelles.
I
Ili River
B
eginning its journey in the Ili Kazakh Autonomous Prefecture
of China’s Xinjiang Province, the Ili River runs for 1,439km
– 815km of which is in Kazakhstan’s Zhetisu Province – to empty
into Lake Balkhash in a vast delta of reeds and marshland. Along its
course it passes through the Kapshagay Reservoir. The Ili is a popular
destination for rafting tours in its middle reaches, and hunting and
fishing in its delta area.
29
Ili-Alatau National Park
T
his is the most visited of all Kazakhstan’s national parks because
of its proximity to Almaty, the country’s largest city. It stretches
120km from the Turgen Gorge in the east to the Shamalghan River
in the west, while its north-south boundaries are the city’s southern
suburbs and the ridge of high peaks of the Zailiyskiy Alatau. It is an
alpine wonderland of 1,400 plant species and 240 vertebrate animals,
including the mighty Tien Shan spruce, Tien Shan bears and snow
leopards.
Independence Day
K
azakhstan declared its independence from the USSR on 16
December 1991. This date was chosen by President Nazarbayev
in memory of the hundreds of Kazakh students shot while protesting
for more autonomy in Almaty’s main square on that day in 1986.
Zheltoksan, or Independence Day, is a national public holiday and is
celebrated proudly.
Independence Square (Almaty)
A
huge open area in front of the old Presidential Palace in Almaty,
Independence Square’s focal point is Independence Monument,
a huge column topped by a statue of a Scythian warrior standing on
a winged snow leopard and holding a bow and falcon. At its base is a
semicircular set of reliefs depicting the history of Kazakhstan in carved
stone panels, and a stone
imprint of President
Nazarbayev’s hand.
Irtysh (Ertis) River
A
rising in the Altai
Mountains in China’s
Xinjiang Province,
the Irtysh River enters
30
northeast Kazakhstan and flows into Lake Zaysan and the Bukhtarma
Reservoir, before continuing on its 4,248km course to the Ob River
in Russian Siberia. It flows through rich steppe and passes through
the cities of Oskemen, Semey and Pavlodar. In ancient times the most
northerly branch of the Silk Road passed along its banks.
J
T
he sound “J” is usually transliterated in English as “Zh”, but you
will sometimes see it used, for example the “Zhungar Gate” is
also spelt “Junggar Gate”, and “Zhambyl” can also be spelt “Jambyl”.
However, the most common usage remains “Zh”.
K
Kapshagay Reservoir
A
n artificial lake created by the Kapshagay Hydroelectric Power
Plant in 1970 on the Ili River, Kapshagay Reservoir is over 100km
long and up to 25km wide, and is a popular “riviera” destination for
Almaty residents, being only 90km north of that city. A multimilliondollar resort complex is under development there, with an autobahn
and improved infrastructure to cater for the large numbers expected to
use it for a range of water sports and other leisure activities.
Karagandy (Karaganda) – www.karaganda-akimat.kz (Russian and
Kazakh only)
T
he fourth largest city in Kazakhstan with a population just under
500,000, Karagandy lies in the Central Steppe south of Astana,
and is an industrial city established to exploit the huge coal reserves in
the area. During the Stalin era prison camp labour was used to mine
31
the coal, and conditions were appalling, but today it is a pleasant place
with a large central square and tree-lined avenues. Its railway station is
one of the most important travel hubs in the country.
Karatau Mountains
T
he Karatau, or Black Mountains, form the western tip of the Talas
Alatau, stretching between Taraz and Shymkent northwest into the
Moiynkum Desert. Due to a relative abundance of water from glacierfed rivers, these low mountains are rich in wildlife and archaeological
sites from the Stone and Bronze ages, and a portion is protected as the
Karatau Nature Reserve. People continue to be drawn to its natural
wealth and it has a high population density; the language and culture
of the Kazakhs is strong in this region.
Kashagan Offshore Oilfield – www.kmg.kz/en
T
he Kashagan oilfield was discovered in 2000, one of the largest
discoveries in the last 30 years. It lies under water on the northern
shelf of the Caspian Sea south of Atyrau, covers an area of 5,500
square kilometres, and is estimated to contain 1,475.5 million tons of
recoverable oil reserves. The environment for oil extraction is harsh and
difficult, but it is scheduled to start commercial production by the end
of 2012. It is owned by the state oil and gas company KazMunayGaz.
Katon-Karagay National Park – http://katon-karagay.vko.gov.kz
(Russian and Kazakh only)
I
n 2001 a 1,300-square-kilometre tract of land in the far northeastern
corner of Kazakhstan was declared the Katon-Karagay National
Park. It ranges from the borders of Russia and China to the northern
slopes of the Sarymsaktiy and Tarbagatay mountains, and is incredibly
32
rich in biodiversity, covering hill steppe, taiga forest and high alpine
slopes. One of the most beautiful regions Kazakhstan, this is a prime
area for adventure tourism.
Kazakh Khanate
C
onsidered a defining period in Kazakh history, during the 15th
century three tribal confederations, known as the Senior, Middle
and Lesser Hordes, occupied much of modern-day Kazakhstan’s
territory. At this time they began to be called “Kazakh”, meaning
“free” or “independent”, and in the 1450s the nomad lords Zhanibek
(Janibek) and Kerei declared themselves free of the Khanate of
Abulkhair in present-day Uzbekistan. In 1456 they proclaimed the
Kazakh Khanate, laying the foundation for the first formation of a
Kazakh state.
33
KazMunayGaz – www.kmg.kz/en
T
he state-owned oil and gas company KazMunayGaz (also spelt
KazMunaiGaz) was formed in 2002 by the merger of Kazakhoil
and Transport Nefti I Gaza. It owns 44 onshore oil and gas fields in
the Mangistau and Atyrau regions covering an area of 837.4 square
kilometres, and through subsidiary companies provides 65% of the oil
transportation in Kazakhstan territory, 100% of its gas transportation
and 50% of tanker transportation. It also runs major refineries within
the country, selling petrochemicals for export. Through joint ventures
it is involved in the offshore oilfields of the northern Caspian Sea, and
the KazMunaiGaz Exploration and Production company is listed on
both the Kazakhstan and London stock exchanges.
Khan Shatyr – www.khanshatyr.com
T
he largest “tent” in the world was officially opened on 5 July, 2010.
Khan Shatyr is an enormous entertainment complex designed by
Foster and Partners; it
uses a special transparent
plastic compound that
absorbs the sun and
helps to keep the interior
temperature at a constant
moderate temperature,
regardless of the outside
conditions, which range
from -35˚C to 40˚C
throughout the year. It
covers 140,000 square
metres and at 150 metres
tall is the highest tensile
structure on the planet. A
phenomenal architectural
achievement, its multilevel interior contains an
34
urban-scale park, shopping and entertaining venues, a boating river,
piazzas, cobbled streets and even an indoor beach resort.
Khan Tengri
I
ts name means “Lord of Heaven”, a suitable moniker for
Kazakhstan’s highest mountain, standing 7,010 metres above sea
level. Khan Tengri marks the point where Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan and
China meet in the country’s far southeast. A picturesque pyramidal
peak, it is surrounded by superb trekking country, and is a magnet for
mountaineers.
Khoja Ahmed Yasawi
K
hoja Ahmed Yasawi was an Islamic prophet, poet and mystic
who founded the Sufi Tariqah order. Born in Sayram in 1094,
he studied Islam, oriental literature and philosophy in Bukhara, but
returned to Yassi (now named Turkistan) in today’s South Kazakhstan
to teach the Koran in the Turkic language, thus spreading its word
across the Kazakh Steppe. Highly revered, he was declared a saint
while still alive. He died in 1166 and was buried with great honour (see
Yasawi Mausoleum on page 75).
Koktobe Hill (Almaty) – www.expat.kz
T
he “Green Hill” of Almaty lies just to the southeast of the
city, a small rock outcrop of the Tien Shan mountains in the
distance. A huge
television tower
is surrounded by
a beautiful park
that boasts cafés
and restaurants,
children’s
entertainment,
and viewpoints
where a
magnificent
panorama shows
35
the city spread out below, with the mighty Tien Shan peaks stretching
away to the horizon.
Kolsay Lakes National Park
S
ituated on the northern slopes of the Kungey Alatau about 320km
east of Almaty, the three Kolsay lakes boast breathtaking natural
beauty and are a very popular camping and hiking weekend trip for
Almaty locals. Made a national park in 2007, visitor numbers are
limited to try to preserve the environment, which is rich in flora and
fauna. Each lake is at a different altitude and all are surrounded by
pristine alpine forest and meadows dissected by clear streams.
36
Korgalzhin-Tengiz Nature Reserve
T
his vast water basin among the central Kazakh hill country about
135km southwest of Astana contains a host of steppe lakes that
draw tens of thousands of migratory and indigenous birds – around
330 species have been sighted here, making this a bird-watcher’s
paradise. Combined with Naurzum Nature Reserve, 300km to the east,
it comprises UNESCO’s “Saryarka – Steppe and Lakes of Northern
Kazakhstan” World Heritage natural biosphere.
Kostanay – www.kostanay.gov.kz (Russian only)
T
he capital of the province of the same name in northern
Kazakhstan, Kostanay is principally a mining town processing
the iron and bauxite ore, titanium, zirconium and gold that is mined
in this area. It lies on the Tobol River, and the surrounding steppe was
successfully turned into agricultural land during the 1950s. Today
Kostanay is a prosperous and attractive city with a Russian flavour due
to its proximity to the border.
Kunanbayev, Abai (1845–1904)
C
onsidered the father of Kazakh literature, the self-named “Abai the
Righteous” was born Ibrahim Kunanbayev, the son of a provincial
lord in northeast Kazakhstan. He was sent to school in Semipalatinsk
(Semey) where he mixed with exiled Russian intellectuals, and on
returning to the steppe world of the nomads he dedicated his life’s
work to Kazakh national self-consciousness. A proponent of education
and moral integrity, he translated Russian literature into Kazakh, and
wrote many original works, but the Book of Words was his literary
and philosophical masterpiece – it provided a powerful impulse to the
development of Kazakh writing.
Kurgans
T
hese are large grave mounds marking the burial sites of ancient
peoples. Kurgans have been discovered dating from the Eneolithic
37
38
or Copper Age right through to the Middle Ages, but in Kazakhstan
the most famous kurgans are from the Sak (Scythian) era. Warriors and
important individuals were buried with their most valuable treasures
and possessions, including gold items and sacrificed horses. Superb
examples of this have been unearthed in Zhetisu at Issyk Kurgan and in
the Valley of Kings in Berel, East Kazakhstan.
Kurmangazy Offshore Oilfield – www.kmg.kz/en/manufacturing/
upstream/kurmangazy
T
his extensive 1,632-square-kilometre oilfield, discovered under the
sea floor in the Caspian Sea about 80km from the port of Bautino
(near Fort Shevchenko) in Mangistau Province, has estimated reserves
of 7–10 billion barrels of oil. An exploration well was drilled in 2006,
but further exploration is under way before production can begin.
Kyzylkum Desert
K
yzylkum means “Red Sand”, and this vast 300,000-squarekilometre desert in southern Kazakhstan stretches from the Syr
Darya south and
west into Uzbekistan,
extending to the Amu
Darya. It is a barren,
inhospitable land of
sand dunes only very
sparsely populated,
and what habitation
exists is concentrated
along rivers and at
oases.
Kyzylorda
H
istorically a major trading hub for caravan routes passing along
the Syr Darya or crossing from Khiva and Bukhara to the
north, a fortress outpost was established by the Russians in 1817, and
Kyzylorda became the headquarters of the Russian governorate once
it had conquered all of Central Asia. From 1925–29 it was the capital
of Kazakhstan, but it fell on hard times; however, the development of
the Kumkol oil field to the north has given it a new lease of life, and
major investment in construction is returning the city to something of
its former glory.
L
Language
A
lthough Kazakh is the state language of Kazakhstan, the lingua
franca remains Russian. President Nazarbayev has tasked his
entire government and people with becoming proficient in Russian,
Kazakh and English by 2030, but this is a difficult proposition. For
39
now, English is spoken very little outside the obvious tourist centres,
and Russian is by far the most useful language to know.
However, learning some Kazakh phrases is definitely beneficial,
and will bring you kudos from Kazakh friends and business associates. The 33-letter Russian Cyrillic alphabet is widely used, but the
Kazakh Cyrillic alphabet has 42 letters – the nine extra letters for
vowels and consonants that do not exist in Russian.
Literature
K
azakh literature is founded in
the oral tradition of storytelling
and epic poetry that is so strong
in nomadic culture. Starting with
Abai Kunanbayev, a growing
number of scholars began to commit
local legends and folktales to the
page, while writers such as Ibray
Altynsarin and Chokan Valikhanov
expanded on this to offer material
provoking deep thought. The Stalin
years were tragic for the Kazakh
literary world, with humanist writers
such as Seyfullin, Baytursinuly and
Dulatov succumbing to the death
camps. Fortunately, some survived,
including Mukhtar Auezov, whose four-volume Abai’s Way offers
an encyclopaedic view on Kazakh life. Ilyas Yesinberlin’s trilogy The
Nomads tells the story of the Kazakh Khanate in thrilling form, while
Chingis Aitmatov was a renowned social commentator famous for
books such as The Day Lasts More Than a Hundred Years.
From this base has grown a rich and broad-stroked literary culture
boasting talented lyricists, essayists, playwrights and authors, many
of whom – including Mukhtar Shakhanov and Dukenbay Doszhan
– have had their work translated into dozens of languages. President
Nursultan Nazarbayev himself is a talented and prolific writer.
M
Mangyshlak Peninsula
T
his chunk of land
that juts out into the
Caspian Sea is part of
Mangistau Province in
western Kazakhstan, and
Aktau is its major city. It
was populated in earlier
times by the Lesser Horde
of Kazakh nomads, but was