Download TREE WORK SAFETY

TREE WORK SAFETY What can I expect if I fall while working on a tree? If you fall 10 feet, you’ll hit about 17mph top speed, resulting in cuts, scrapes, bruises, dislocations and cracked bones like vertebrae. If you fall 30 feet, you’ll be motoring along at about 30 mph, leading to concussion, fractures (multiple), pelvis issues and potentially death. If you fall 40 feet, which ups the speed to a mere 35 mph, more often death, or injuries listed above. If you fall 50 feet, you will be up to 39 mph, USUALLY death, severed spinal cord, broken back, head injury, etc. If you fall 70 feet, at a speed of 46 mph, ALMOST ALWAYS death, and injuries as above along with ruptured aortas, lungs, etc. Diagnosing A Girdling Root
What is a girdling root?
A girdling root is a root that wraps around a tree or shrub and eventually cuts into the
tissue of the stem or trunk so far that it kills the plant. There is also such a thing as
girdling soil or girdling wrappings such as rope or wire used to tied the root system to the
trunk.
Are there certain plants very susceptible to girdling roots?
Yes, maples and evergreens.
Why do plants develop girdling roots?
Because they are planted or mulched too deeply, have too small a planting hole, or have
been in pots so long that the roots begin to circle. Make sure that the planting hole is not
too deep, since a shrub or tree planted low enough to have stem tissue crossed by a root is
a good candidate for strangulation. This is also true of a deep hole that has been back
filled with loose soil, because eventually the plant has to settle!
What are some signs and symptoms of girdling roots?
Trees or shrubs that have a stem diameter that remains the same rather than increasing
and extensive branch dieback over several years may be suffering from a girdling root.
When you look at the trunk at the soil line, there is no normal root flare, and one side of
the trunk goes straight into the ground like a utility pole.
What do I do if I find a girdling root?
Prune the offending roots off and if very large and numerous do one each year so you
don’t compromise the anchorage of the planting.
How do I safely remove a really BIG girdling root?
You may have to resort to a mallet and chisel. Disinfect the tools before removal of the
root.
Is there anything I can do to determine the presence of a girdling root BEFORE I buy?
If you are looking at containerized specimens, pull a few out and look for root circling.
Once the roots begin to circle THEY NEVER GROW OUT OF IT.
If you are purchasing a few months before you are ready to install, make sure that the
pots have been treated with copper compounds, which will prevent circling during the
interim, but will not permanently affect the plant.
If you did buy a plant with circling roots you need to tease out the roots with a weed
scratcher, a dinner or cooking fork, or a spading fork to get them out of the circular
pattern.
How large a space should I leave around new trees to reduce the chances of a girdling
root?
Keep a three foot wide barrier without turf or weeds around new trees. Cover the area
with up to but no more than three inches of mulch, leaving a few inches of breathing
space right around the trunk. Avoid finely shredded mulch which acts more as a soil.
Dealing with a Tree That Has Been Planted Incorrectly or Over Mulched
Does it still need to be staked or tied?
A tree needs staking at planting time only if it is unable to stand upright without stakes, or if it
needs protection from wind or people.
If it is staked and or tied, how long do the stakes and ties need to remain in place?
After a year the tree should be able to stand on its own. If its roots can’t hold it up after that
period, there’s another issue to problem solve, such as poor roots, or soil conditions. These will
not be resolved with staking.
Is there an advantage to NOT staking?
Trees that are unstaked will develop trunk girth faster, and will also have the strength to keep
their posture when hit by wind.
What if the ties have been on so long they are begining to grow into the bark?
Untie trees immediately so that the material used to connect the stake to the tree doesn’t “girdle”
or do any more damage to the bark. Girdling restricts water and food movement in a tree and
leads to a decline in growth. It might even create a weak spot above the girdle that could break
off sometime later. Also remove any labels or tags that are still attached.
The tree came with a wrapping that was never removed. What should I do?
Remove any kind of trunk protecting wrapping that was installed at planting time. Just as with
unnecessary staking, there is unnecessary wrapping. In a few specific situations trunk wrapping
may have some value – trunk protection at digging or shipping time or heat protection if trees are
planted into paved areas during the spring or summer.
What kinds of problems occur if the wrapping is left in place?
Wraps don’t encourage trees to become established and may actually cause problems. Bark
rotting, enlargement of trunk breathing pores or “lenticels”, insect and disease problems and
girdling from the wrapping’s method of attachment are just a few problems that can occur. If a
tree’s trunk is protected with a metal, plastic or other type of guard to prevent damage caused by
machinery, animal feeding or vandalism, be sure it’s loose. Otherwise, girdling may occur at the
guard site.
The tree I have been asked to care for has at least a foot high pile of mulch around it. What
should I do?
If you’re dealing with volcano mulch or have more than the recommended 3-4 inches of mulch,
remove the excess. Mulch against the trunk encourages bark decay or disease or insect problems.
Excessive mulch can also create a welcoming habitat for animals such as voles that might feed
on the base of plants. While you remove excess mulch check to be sure that the trees and shrubs
were not planted too deep. The trunk flare or root-stem transition area should be at the soil
surface.
What if the tree IS planted too deeply and I cannot see the flare at soil level?
If the tree is too deeply set and has been in place for just a short time – three to six months – dig
it up and plant is less deeply. If that’s not possible, remove soil from around the trunk base,
gradually tapering back to grade.
Is there anything to look for and remove at planting time that can cause problems in the
future?
Be sure that any root packaging or balling materials are removed at planting time. These include
natural jute or synthetic burlaps, natural hemp or synthetic ropes, the tops of wire baskets, plastic
sleeves, even plastic pots. Even the tops of “plantable” peat-paper fiber pots should be broken
away. Their slow rate of biodegradation often limits root development and the fibers wick
moisture away from the roots.
Installing a Planting
Here are the brass tacks of installation itself.
•The width of the planting hole should always be three times the diameter of the ball.
•If there is insufficient room between the curb and the sidewalk, don't do it!
•Even better, try to set aside LARGE areas around your property for large groupings
rather than solitary specimens in a line.
•This will give a greater area of open ground for roots to spread.
•The planting depth should be so that the widened part of the plant base JUST BEFORE
the root system starts will ultimately be even with the top of the soil.
•DO NOT TRUST THAT THE TOP OF THE BALL IS THIS AREA.
•Often the specimen will be purchased already too deep in the ball and it is your job to
open the ball and excavate a bit of soil until you can see the widening or the flare of the
crown of the plant.
•Thin, hair-like roots above the widened area should be carefully snipped off.
•These have formed in response to having soil piled too high above the flare…this is akin
to you using a straw to try to catch some oxygen if you are forced to hide underwater
during the annual office skinny dip. <
•For a group planting, select species wisely so that cultural requirements for different
species will be somewhat similar, i.e., similar pH, similar moisture and similar sun
requirements.
•When you purchase balled and burlapped stock, cut the ties or string around the base of
the tree that hold the wrapping in place once the specimen is in the planting hole and you
are sure you will not remove it again for any other reason.
•Remove synthetic burlap completely. Some times a piece of this will be wrapped loosely
around the true ball covered by natural burlap as a kind of “diaper” to make sure the
whole thing stays together. Natural burlap can be left in place in the hole to rot away, but
tuck edges INTO the planting hole so it doesn’t act as a wick for water to evaporate.
•For trees in cages, the hole should be wide enough to accommodate snipping of the cage
1/2-2/3 of the way down from the surface of the hole. You don’t have to remove the cage,
simply cut the first layer of wire in a couple of places.
•There's No Need to Stake and Tie
•Staking and tying is really not necessary unless you are in a very windy area. Woody
ornamentals also need to flex with the wind, a kind of plant physical therapy.
•The other problem with the ties is that they invariably remain on the tree too long and
begin to cut into the trunk, effectively cutting off the flow of nutrients and water and
eventually killing or deforming the specimen.
•Plants with greater root volume will establish more easily. Therefore site preparation is
critical. A good site will have more consistent water movement.
•A bed that is more than 30% clay should not be amended unless you are prepared to
pump up the organic matter to about 80%! A much more reasonable option is to grow the
specimen in a raised bed.
•When you prepare the site, remember that most transplants have a greatly impaired root
system. Root hormones are disrupted, there is less photosynthesis, and there is transplant
shock which leads to vastly reduced growth the year of transplantation.
•Root pruning does essentially the same thing to the plant. DO NOT ROOT PRUNE
•When roots have been pruned, you get re-growth ONLY at the cut ends, and then mostly
only on thicker roots, which are not the ones doing most of the nutrient and water
absorbing.
•You end up with a witch's broom effect just like when tree crowns are topped. After a
few years, dominance is achieved by one of these root broom straws and the tree begins
to recover.
TreestoPlantONLYintheSpring;NOTRecommendedforFallPlanting
1. Acer rubrum (red or swamp maple) 2. Betula spp. (birch) 3. Carpinus (hornbeam) 4. Carya (hickory) 5. Cercis (redbud) 6. Cornus florida (flowering dogwood) 7. Cratagus spp. (hawthorne) 8. Gymnocladus dioicus (Kentucky coffee tree) 9. Koelreuteria paniculata (golden rain tree) 10. Lagerstroemia indica (crepe myrtle) 11. Liquidambar (sweet gum) 12. Lirodendron tulipifera (tulip tree or tulip poplar) 13. Magnolia 14. Nyssa sylvatica (sourgum, tupelo) 15. Ostrya virginica (hop hornbeam) 16. Platanus (sycamore) 17. Populus (poplar) 18. Pyrus calleryana (callery pear) 19. Quercus alba (white oak) 20. Q. coccinea (scarlet oak) 21. Q. macrocarpa (bur oak) 22. Q. phellos (willow oak) 23. Q. robus (English oak) 24. Q. rubra (red oak) 25. Salix (willow) 26. Tiliatomentosa (silver linden) 27. Zelcova Tree Hazards
What if the problem tree is a dedicated tree or has some other high value?
If the tree is high value but looks like it might be developing into a hazard, redirect traffic
with landscaping such as shrubs and hedges as barriers to foot traffic to keep people out
of harm’s way until a decision can be reached
Are there any tips for evaluating hazard trees and staying safe at the same time?
Always look with binoculars and probe around the base before you do or say anything.
After reviewing the crown, look downward along the trunk, then carefully examine the
root zone
The more questions answered “yes” below, the greater the chance that the tree has
problems.
Take the following test to help to determine if a tree is a hazard
and should be remove by adding up points. A higher score
means a greater likelihood of hazard.
JUDGING BRANCH AND CANOPY HEALTH
1 point Are there loose, dead branches hung up in the canopy? Yes No
2 points Are there dead limbs (if they are over 1” in diameter, this is a major red flag)?
Yes No
2 points Has the tree been previously topped which will almost invariably result in
weakly attached re-growth? Yes No
1 point Are there broken branches with stubs unpruned or sprout-like regrowth after
storm damage? Yes No
2 points Has there been recent unexplained loss of large limbs? Yes No
2 points Are there multiple branches that cross or rub (they should be pruned ASAP)?
Yes No
2 points Is there decay around branch collars (a source of unexpected breakage)? Yes
No
1 point Are there multiple clusters of leaves right on the trunk, or short, whip-like
branches in clusters on the trunk or on ends of a large branch? Yes No
2 points Does the tree have a broad canopy to catch the wind coupled with other things in
this list? Yes No
1 point Was the tree pruned from the outside inward (a shade tolerant plant uses its
uppermost leaves better than its interior leaves because they are not adapted to higher
light intensities so you may weaken the trees by pruning in this manner)? Yes No
2 points Are there cankers? Yes No
2 points Are there wounds? Yes No
1 point Is there wound paint on wounds or on pruning cuts? Yes No
2 points Are there flush cuts? Yes No
2 points Are there stub cuts? Yes No
2 points Is there decay around any pruning wounds? Yes No
2 points Was more than 10% of live wood removed in a single year? Yes No
2 points Was more than 25% of the crown removed in a single year (crown should be
60% of the plant) ? Yes No
JUDGING TRUNK HEALTH
2 points Are there shelf mushrooms jutting out from trunk? Yes No
1 point Is there loose bark (this is often ignored but do not mistake loose bark for
normally exfoliating bark on particular species)? Yes No
2 points If loose bark is at the base of the tree, are there black shoe strings underneath
(Armillaria)? Yes No
2 points Are there weed eater wounds greater than 2/3 the diameter of the trunk? Yes
No
1 point Are there insect borer holes? Yes No
1 point Are there drips of resin? Yes No
1 point Are there forks that have a narrow angle? Yes No
2 points Is there sap or pitch in the narrow angled fork? Yes No
2 points Are there forks where one side goes up and the other goes outward? Yes No
2 points Are there cavities? Yes No
2 points Are there seedlings or saplings growing in any cavity or in forks? Yes No
2 points Are there cankers? Yes No
2 points Are there wounds? Yes No
1 point Is there wound paint on wounds or on pruning cuts? Yes No
2 points Are there flush cuts? Yes No
2 points Are there stub cuts? Yes No
2 points Is there decay around any pruning wounds? Yes No
1 point Are there cracks? Yes No
2 points Are any of the vertical cracks paired on opposite sides of the tree (sign of root
injury or breakage, VERY dangerous)? Yes No
1 point Are there wounds that extend into the ground (like lightning scars that extend
from the top of the tree into the ground---these should be examined regularly)? Yes
No
2 points Are there sprinklers hitting trees everyday, which leads to infection of the main
stem or root collar (crown gall, bleeding canker and Armillaria)? Yes No
2 points Does the tree lean (leaning or lopsided trees are more of a hazard than those
growing vertically, but if a tree has ALWAYS grown off center, it is generally not an
undue risk)? Yes No
2 points Is there a SUDDEN lean (indicates breakage or weakening of support roots,
should be cause for alarm and immediate action)? Yes No
JUDGING LEAF HEALTH AND TREE VIGOR
Vigor is reflected in the amount of leaf cover, leaf size, color and condition…compare
your tree with others of like size you’ll be able to detect a less vigorous crown
2 points Does your plant have small or no new leaves or buds? Yes No
1 point Does your plant have small leaf size? Yes No
1 point Does your plant have unusual or darker than normal color? Yes No
2 points Does your plant have reduced twig growth? Yes No
2 points Does your plant have evidence of crown dieback (on one side only may indicate
Verticillium)? Yes No
2 points Is your plant persistently suckering and it is not a species that normally suckers?
Yes No
1 point Did your plant bloom during the off season (this may be a signal that the tree is
about to die)? Yes No
2 points Did your established tree have less than two inches of new growth between the
tip of a branch and the bud scale scar from the previous year or did the entire plant grow
less than 6 inches in height compared to last year (newly established plants will have
growth reductions for the first 2-3 years, perhaps as little as 0-1”, but as longs as the plant
keeps its leaves it is likely to survive)? Yes No
JUDGING ROOT AND BASE HEALTH
Always clear away ivy or other obstructions from the base of the tree so that you get a
good look and take the time to look at the side that is in an awkward position such as
backed up against a fence, and even peek over the fence to see what is on the other side.
2 points Is the soil cracking or bulging around the base (if so, it could indicate the
buttress roots are getting ready to heave)? Yes No
2 points Has there been a grade change (look for horizontal lines of color change on base
to indicate)? Yes No
2 points Does tree look like a telephone pole at the base (should widen at the base: if
looks like telephone pole, extreme red flag)? Yes No
1 point If you take a sample of the soil near the drip line of a suspect tree in a vertical
manner (about 6-8 inches straight down) do you see two distinct layers usually at about a
three inch depth (indicates potential soil incompatibility)? Yes No
1 point Is there more than three inches of mulch? Yes No
2 points Are there mushrooms at the base? Yes No
2 points Are roots brown in cross section? Yes No
2 points Does the outer covering of the root slip easily off the inner root cylinder? Yes
No
2 points Has there been trenching or construction within the root zone (lose ability to
support trunk and crown, especially if located on windward side of tree)? Yes No
2 points Has the tree had more than 20% of its roots cut within the last 5 years due to
construction (try to find out what time of year this root cutting was performed…the least
physically offensive time is from leaf drop to bud-break)? Yes No
1 point Trees that respond the worst to having their roots cut: beech, tulip, sugar maple,
dogwood, hemlock, white pine. Is the tree one of these? Yes No
2 points Has there been construction in the last 5-7 years (unfortunately trees may
survive with no apparent changes for several years after the construction is finished
THEN begins a slow decline)? Yes No
1 point Has a deciduous tree had early or abnormal fall coloring (a good sign of
construction damage)? Yes No
1 point Has a deciduous tree dropped leaves earlier in the fall than others of the same
species on perimeter (a good sign of construction damage)? Yes No
1 point Has a tree in a construction zone had stem and twig dieback, and or abnormally
shaped leaves (advanced signs of construction damage: appear months or years after the
fact)? Yes No
2 points Is there asphalt or concrete over all or part of the root system (same suffocating
effect as raising the grade)? Yes No
2 points Has a RAISED flower bed been built beneath the tree (some trees are affected
by less than an inch of added soil eg, dogwood, Japanese maples)? Yes No
1 point Are there visible surface roots (not normal unless they are over a rock or you
have a high water table)? Yes No
2 points Are there clusters of mushrooms at the base of the tree (which may indicate
Armillaria or shoestring rot which chews away the butt of the tree---major red flag)?
Yes No
2 points Does the trunk have one side that does not widen at the base (major red flag)?
Yes No
2 points Does the tree have “muffin top” (If you find a horizontal roll at the base
however small, with a slightly narrower trunk below, that indicates a girdling root, rope, a
defect from being balled and burlapped, etc. ---often there will be a corresponding dieback in the crown correlated with the side with the worst muffin top) ? Yes No
.
JUDGING A DISTURBED ENVIRONMENT
2 points Are other trees and shrubs in the vicinity doing poorly (if other trees and shrubs
in the area are doing poorly, it is likely that the tree you are eyeballing will be suffering
to some extent from the same thing in terms of cultural issues)? Yes No
2 points Are there new specimens that have been installed around the tree that is in
trouble (the most common thing is new specimens installed around an established tree so
that the root system is disturbed by physical digging or compaction, change in soil level,
excessive irrigation or fertility and too much mulch---you will expect the new plantings
to croak first, followed in 1-2 years by decline of the established tree)? Yes No
1 point Has new sod been installed or turf renovation occurred around the tree (you may
see decline after sod installation or turf renovation around trees with a 3-5 year decline
mark)? Yes No
.
SHOULD THE TREE BE REMOVED AFTER A STORM?
2 points Is 50% or more of the crown destroyed or heavily damaged, especially if the
loss is mostly on one side (should probably be removed) ? Yes No
2 points Does the tree have leaders broken back to the main trunk (should probably be
removed)? Yes No
2 points Is the tipped or large split tree weak wooded such as basswood, black locust,
boxelder, cottonwood, poplars, silver maple or willow (should probably be removed)?
Yes No
Seasonal Prep For Trees and Other Plants
 What is the most important fall task? Should I water?
ABSOLUTELY! Often the tree goes into dormancy with insufficient moisture, especially if it is newly planted. A late fall and mid winter thaw watering can prevent winter damage, heaving and fall watering can prolong fall color of the leaves. It sets your tree up for less stress and therefore a healthier spring. It is the most important thing you can do.  Should I mulch?
ABSOLUTELY, but no more than 3 inches deep using large wood chips, NOT shredded, dyed palates or soil. Keep the mulch about 6 inches away from the trunk to provide air space and the opportunity for the trunk to remain dry. Make your mulch ring extend out to edge of the tree branches or at least three feet outwards.  How do I prune trees for next year’s growth?
Use late fall to make note of your tree’s pruning needs when foliage is off and branch structure can easily be seen. Prune in winter when you have fewer routine grounds maintenance tasks and you can see structure. Pruning at this time is also less stressful for the tree and will reduce the chance for late winter storm damage and problems caused by storm damaged tree branches falling on building roofs, gutters and structures.  When should I remove trees altogether?
Winter is ideal. Frozen ground prevents tearing of soil and turf during removal. There will be no leaf removal, you’ll be able to see better and have better access.  When should I fertilize trees?
Fertilize sparingly with slow release products designed for fall application after trees are dormant. Sample soil FIRST to determine what if any needs your trees have. This can be done anytime. Often an adjustment of pH will release nutrients that are present, but unavailable to your tree.  What should I do if the soil around my trees is compacted or the tree was
planted too deeply?
Using an air spade at 150 psi is an excellent way to break up compacted soil and blow excess soil and mulch away from the trunk until you can just see where the trunk begins to widen slightly before the roots. As you uncover the trunk, clip away any hair‐like roots that have formed above the space where the trunk becomes wider.  When should I spray?
If you are able to use dormant sprays and you need to use them, choose spring days when day and night temperatures will remain above 40 degrees for trees that lose their leaves but before the tree begins to break bud. SPRING TIPS in the Perennial Garden  What are some of the chores that I should think about doing in the spring?
Check trees and shrubs for damage and prune dead or diseased branches in early spring. Be careful and know the flowering habits of your shrubs. For example, hydrangea macrophyllia generally flower on old wood. This means that the flower buds have been formed in late summer and any early spring pruning will surely remove sleeping flowers prematurely. Lilacs, and rhododendrons and azaleas also flower on old wood. Any pruning of these shrubs should only be done immediately after flowering or no later than July 4th. Cut back winter damaged dead canes on rose bushes  Is there any special treatment for roses in springtime? If you covered your roses with soil or mulch, gently remove this material now. Roses require well drained soil to thrive, add some organic matter at this time. If you’re on a fungicide regiment you can begin about 14 days after pruning and rotate through different fungicides during the season. Be careful not to use pesticides unless you see evidence of damage. Hit aphids with a blast of water from the hose. A good fertilizer, 10‐10‐10 or a slow released one such as Osmocote should be applied every other week during the growing season.  How often should the pH be tested? Periodically check the pH of the soil in your garden, at least every two or more years.  Do evergreens require spring pruning? Evergreen perennials including many alpines will require no cutting back or only a minimal amount of tidying up. Wall Cress (Arabis), Rock Cress (Aubrieta), Basket –of‐
Gold (Aurinia), Pinks (Dianthus), Candytuft (Iberis), Moss Phlox (Phlox subulata), may be trimmed back to half their height using a pair of hedge shears, to encourage a dense and  Semi‐evergreen perennials may look so beat up by spring that some of the more tattered leaves need to be removed. Among these are: Bergenia, Coral Bells, (Heuchera), Foamy Bells (Heucherella), Foam Flower (Tiarella), and some ferns.  When is a good time to cut back my Shasta daisies and Rudbeckia? The tall, upright flower stems of Shasta Daisies (Leucanthemum), Coreopsis and Rudbeckia die back in late fall, but these plants can be trimmed at that time.  How do you know you’re purchasing a healthy plant when they’re balled and burlapped? Closely examine the ball on the plant. Sometimes when a plant is being balled and burlapped the growers tend to pile soil above the root flare of the plant creating a false sense of where the flare actually is. Make sure you remove excess soil to ensure the proper planting depth. Remove any nylon twine completely. Cut and remove metal capes from the ball. Burlap should also be partially removed to aid in the decomposing process. Remember to dig a hole twice the width but not too deep. The depth should only be deep enough to have the root flare at ground level. Research has shown that trees that are staked without any ability to move slightly in the wind have less density in the caliper as compared to the height of that tree. Trees that have been left unstaked or staked loosely so they do have some play are able to sway in the wind are much thicker in caliper and stronger overall.  What’s the best way to buy a container grown plant? For container grown plants examine the roots by inverting the plant in your hand and removing the plastic pot. Sometimes when plants have been growing in a container for extensive periods of time the roots start to grow in a circular pattern “girdling” roots are not good, and you should disturb these roots before planting by breaking this circular pattern. You can take a knife and slice from the top of the root mass to the bottom or tease out the roots with your fingers. This will stimulate new roots that will grow outward into the soil.  Can you cut back perennials stalks from last year now? Now is a good time to cut down all the old stalks that remain standing from last year’s perennial garden. Toss them into the compost pile along with extra grass clippings.  What are some other chores that should be taken care of in the spring?  Sharpen mower blades and other garden tools ahead of time. A sharpened lawn mower blade will give the lawn a nice clean cut and avoid ripping grass blades which lend themselves to pathways for pathogens.  Make sure your tools and equipment are oiled, sharpened, cleaned and serviced.  Start a compost bin.  Start seeds early indoors and when the weather is warm enough your transplants will be ready to go.  Pre warming soils can be done by covering them with black plastic to boost root growth and reduce weed seed germination. It is not necessary to leave the plastic on all season long because mid summer heat may put too much heat into the soil. Rejuvenate garden soil by amending it with compost and organic matter  Spring blooming flowers – (e.g. tulips, daffodils), after they have faded do not remove the foliage until it turns brown. While it is still green, it is manufacturing strength to the bulb for next year’s flowering.  Summer bulbs (cannas, caladiums, gladiolo etc.) can be planted in April when the soil has warmed. TreesThatTolerateSalt
Thesetreeswithstandsoilsaltinjury.
Ash, Green (Fraxinus pennsylvanica) Baldcypress (Taxodium distichum) Blacklocust (Robinia pseudoacacia) Callery Pear (Pyrus calleryana) Cherry, Sargent (Prunus sargentii) Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba) Goldenraintree (Koelreuteria paniculata) Hawthorne (Crataegus spp.) Honeylocust (Gleditsia triacanthos inermis) London Planetree (Platanus x acerifolia) Maple, Hedge (Acer campestre) Maple, Norway (Acer platanoides) Maple, Sycamore (Acer pseudoplatanus) Maple, Trident (Acer buergeranum) Oak, English (Quercus robur) Oak, Northern Red (Quercus rubra) Osage Orange (Maclura pomifera) Scholar Tree (Styphnolobium japonicum) (Sophora japonica) Siberian Pea Tree (Caragana arborescens) Treesthatwithstandsaltsprayinjury.
Pine, Austrian (Pinus nigra) Pine, Japanese Black (Pinus thunbergii) Pine, Ponderosa (Pinus ponderosa) Treessensitivetosoilsaltinjury.
Basswood, Redmond ( Tilia americana ‘Redmond’) Hophornbeam (Ostrya virginiana) Hornbeam, European (Carpinus betilus) Linden, Crimean (Tilia euchlora) Maple, Red (Acer rubrum) Oak, Pin (Quercus bicolor) Pine, White (Pinus strobes) Tulip Tree (Lirodendron tulipifera) TREE TRANSPLANTING AND MOVING
What are some of the risks in moving large trees?
The process of moving trees can induce drought symptoms, usually resulting in stress due to the
large amount of root system that is lost.
Are there any cultural practices that can be performed prior to the removal of trees before
transplanting?
Irrigating thoroughly two to three times within a two to three week period prior to any root
pruning or excavation will help reduce stress and may allow the tree to take up water for storage,
which will aid in its sustenance until new roots develop.
Would you recommend a heavy pruning after transplanting trees?
Keep pruning as limited as possible after relocating trees. Foliage is necessary for the
manufacture of hormones and photosynthesis required for root regeneration.
Should I fertilize right after planting my new tree?
Only if the site of transplanting has been graded, or altered, resulting in a near sterile soil
condition are amendments beneficial. Fertilizers or supplements otherwise do not provide a
significant difference in the survival of relocated trees. Should a soil analysis reveal toxicity or
deficiencies, however, it will be wise to take corrective measure and amend the soil.
How should the planting site be prepared for the new installations?
In normal planting conditions, the planting pit dimensions will be 1 foot to 3 feet larger around
than the root ball depth. Backfill is rarely amended unless required to correct specific problems
identified by soil analysis. A perc test is recommended before planting to see if you need to
install a drainage system for the hole.
What are the recommendations for watering newly planted trees?
When almost 80% of a transplanted tree might be removed prior to planting, the remaining root
zone will be extremely sensitive to soil moisture. There is also the limited root zone to take up
water to also consider, therefore normal watering practices are altered and it is imperative to
check soil moisture by use of a soil probe before and after watering to determine the correct
amount of water being delivered. Two of the most common problems are over or under watering.
Which is worst over or under watering a newly transplanted tree?
The highest danger is over watering!! Over watering can occur when the tree is either planted too
deeply or soil grade has been increased around a tree (volcano mulching with soil). Other
problems can occur with broken irrigation lines, planting at the base of a slope, and poor
drainage.
What about under watering?
Under watering occurs most often when the water is not percolating into the root ball and just
sheets over the top of the root ball and into the backfill. Soil watering basins can be used to
increase percolation. They should be maintained just inside the edge of the root ball. Mulching
can be beneficial to reduce water loss because it helps maintain moisture and reduce soil
temperature which helps in new root growth development.
What trees should not be transplanted in the fall?
The following list should be planted or transplanted in spring only:
Fir
Birch
Hornbeam
Beech
Fringetree
Yellow wood
Dogwood
Hickory
Ginko
Holly or all other Ilex
Larch
All Oaks
Magnolia
Sour Gum
Flowering cherry, almond, plum
Willow
Sassafrass
Magnolia
Tulip Tree
Sweet Gum
Dealing With Drought
What are the short term effects of drought?
Short term effects: wilting of deciduous foliage, browning of leaf margins (sometimes
with a black inner rim), premature drop of green leaves, browning of all foliage.
What should I look for in ornamentals?
Tree canopy may be thin (but this may be due to secondary insect or disease problems).
Plants may leaf out, then die later in the growing season or even a few years after, a
drought event. Suckers develop on branches and trunk and stems and twigs may die, with
the outermost and upper ones dying first. Maples, lindens and hollies shed leaves.
What should I look for in evergreens?
Evergreen needles brown from the tip and outside to downward and inside.
What are the most common insects and diseases associated with drought?
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Armillaria root rot
Borers on birch, oak, and dogwood
Dogwood anthracnose
Pine wilt nematode
Verticillium wilt on maples
Hypoxylon canker (oak)
Nectria canker (hardwoods)
Cankers: Botryosphaeria canker (all trees, especially rhododendron and
redbud)
Cytospora canker (Prunus, popular, willow, maple, and spruce and other
conifers)
Thyronectria canker (honeylocust)
Drought stress enhances botrysphaeria canker and verticillium wilt where one part of the
plant will suddenly wilt and die---don’t assume a plant like this simply needs more water
Root rots are favored by hot dry conditions on poorly drained sites and cause an off color
to young perennials that are just being installed
Are lawns or ornamentals affected worse by drought?
Ornamentals are likely to suffer more than grass during a drought. Trees and bushes are
especially vulnerable during drought
If my plants are not drooping does that mean they are not affected by drought?
NO! Visual drooping is not universal.
If my plants drop their leaves does it mean they are dead?
No, leaf drop doesn’t necessarily equal death.
How can I tell if my drought stricken tree or shrub is still alive?
Peel back bark on twigs: if green layer beneath, it is still alive and if the base of buds are
green, then you have a live plant.
Are there particularly bad signs of drought on evergreens?
Yes: drooping or curling of evergreens, especially on spruce and , is a sign of severe
water stress.
My evergreens are still green---but I think they are dead. How can this be?
Evergreens can be green for several weeks after they are completely dead. Think about
cut Christmas trees!!!
Is there a difference in visible symptoms between late season and early season
drought?
Yes. Late season drought does NOT usually cause wilting.
My boss says I have to install a new bed during a drought. Is there anything I can
do to enhance survival??
Yes. Incorporate a 2-4” layer of organic material into the top 8-10 inches of soil for
every 100 sq. feet of planting bed
Are younger or older plants more likely to be more deeply affected by water
deprivation?
We tend to think that old, established plantings like trees are much better able to
withstand water deprivation. This is NOT TRUE! These are the plants likely to suffer
more and by the time they show symptoms it may be too late
Doesn’t lawn irrigation take care of the water needs of other plantings???
NO. Lawn irrigation doesn’t take care of OTHER plants!
I don’t have time to hand water new plantings. Won’t my automatic irrigation
system be enough?
No. New plantings should be watered by hand even if you have irrigation, but check to
see how much water plants really thrive in because you can certainly OVER water and
this is what we most often see diagnostically
Which dries out more quickly, container or in ground plantings?
Container plants dry out much more quickly than in ground plants!
What does a better job: in ground irrigation with pop up spray heads, elevated mist
heads or drip irrigation?
Drip irrigation does best job since water goes directly underground.
My boss likes the colored mulch and insists that we purchase it exclusively even
though I do not have it in my budget. I have been using a couple inches of soil and
top dressing that with an inch or so of mulch. That’s okay isn’t it???
NO!!!! The extra soil will suffocate the roots of the plant. If you must use the finely
shredded colored mulch (NOT the best choice), layer newspaper which will break down
and permit air and water movement underneath. Do not use over 40 sheets thickness and
wet the layers down as you install them. The newspaper under expensive mulch does a
good job conserving moisture.
Is solid hardscape or permeable hardscape better for retaining moisture?
Permeable hardscape is much better since it allows slow percolation and moisture
retention beneath rather than sheeting and runoff from impermeable hardscape.
What it the most vulnerable planting to drought?
Street trees because of their limited root system and the pressure of deicing salts on the
water around the roots. If these salts concentrate around roots, then water will be pulled
away from roots whether there is a drought or not. Rainwater also tends to be carried
away from these trees by storm drains.
I have heard that to maintain trees and shrubs during a heat wave coupled with
drought, I should apply light frequent irrigation or they will die. Is this true?
No. Frequent, shallow encourages new rootlet growth near the soil surface which will be
the first to fry and die even if the soil dries for only a short period.
What is the best time of day to water?
Between midnight and 8 AM to reduce water losses by evaporation or wind.
What are some inexpensive tools I can use to combat drought?
Use a rain gauge to measure precipitation and sprinkler output. Keep on top of weeds
since they can steal moisture very efficiently.
I am confused by drip irrigation. How do I know if I giving my plants enough?
For efficient drip systems: One 1-gallon emitter by 2-4 foot plants, two 1-gallon emitters
by each 4-6 foot plant, four 1-gallon emitters by each 7-8 foot plant.
To further refine your watering strategies: for low shrubs with size of 1-3 feet in clay use
1 emitter providing a half gallon per hour, in loam use 1 emitter providing 1 gallon per
hour, and for sand use 1 emitter delivering 2 gallons per hour. All of these would located
next to the plant
For containers with potting soil use 1 or more (depending on size of pot) half to one
gallon emitters
For flower beds or shrub or subshrub ground covers in clay soil, use 2-3 emitters
providing half to one gallon/hour every 18 inches; in loam soil, 2-4 emitters providing 1
gallon/hour every 18 inches, in sandy soil, 2-4 half gallon/hour emitters every 12 inches
For shrubs and trees 3-6 feet in clay use 3 half gallon/hour emitters spaced 6-12 inches
from base of plants, for loam, use 2-3 one gallon/hour emitters spaced 6-12 inches from
base of plants, and for sandy soil use 2-3 two gallon/hour emitters spaced 6-12 inches
from base of plants
For shrubs and trees 6-12 feet in clay use 4 half gallon/hour emitters evenly spaced
around base of plants, for loam, use 2-3 one gallon/hour emitters spaced evenly around
base of plants, and for sandy soil use 4 one gallon or 2 two gallon/hour emitters spaced
evenly arond base of plants
For large trees in clay use 3-6 one gallon per hour emitters evenly spaced around the base
of the tree, in loam use 3-5 two gallon per hour emitters evenly spaced around the tree
and for sandy soil, use 4-8 two gallon per hour emitters evenly spaced around the tree
I have to install trees at the height of a drought. Is there anything I should do
differently?
Newly planted trees and shrubs MUST be watered individually, leaving the hose in the
saucer running slowly for 10-15 minutes at least twice a week, or install a drip irrigation
system in the entire bed that operates twice per week. DO NOT presume an overhead
lawn irrigation system is going to properly water new or established ornamental trees and
shrubs! Mulch beds with 2-3” (no more) of bark, chips, etc. for water retention. If it is a
BED and NOT an individual hole, incorporate plenty of compost/ organic matter into the
soil.
I need to purchase plant materials to install in the middle of a drought. Is there
anything I should look for?
Look for plants with lots of SMALL roots. Most of the water absorbing capability in a
transplant root ball is in the small diameter roots, which naturally are the first to desiccate.
Root weight is NOT an indicator of potential transplant success as much as the size of the
roots are!
My plant material wilted by the planting hole. I watered it right away when I noticed
but now some of the branches are dying. How much trouble am I in?
Trees lose as much as 98% of their root system when they are transplanted, so end up
“topping” themselves due to water stress. This is DIFFERENT from transplant shock; a
single episode of wilting by the planting hole can lead to reduced establishment success.
Proactive irrigation results in over 3 times the weight of new roots growing into backfill
soil compared to reactively irrigated trees (after wilt).
How should I irrigate my trees the first season after installation during a drought, and
how much water should they be receiving?
Target irrigation to ROOTBALLS for first season after planting. For a 3” caliper tree,
this is about 10 gallons every 3 days: this gives you a saturated rootball PLUS moist soil
for the roots to spread into.
Are there any tips for installing and watering containerized plants during drought?
Yes: plunge the pot up to the rim in slightly larger vessel filled with water and let it soak
there until no air bubbles come to the surface. This means there are no hidden dry spots
in the root mass which will later become unwettable, leading to root death kin those areas.
What are the effects of extended drought?
Plants produce additional fine absorbing roots at the beginning of a drought period to
help them absorb more water but these will die as drought extends and soil becomes
progressively drier. Early drought causes the increased production of secondary
metabolites for defense against secondary invaders but as drought worsens they become
“immune deficient”.
What can I expect the year AFTER a drought?
Certain trees shed green leaves to reduce area for water loss BUT they do not replace
them until drought is over, which leads to reduction in photosynthesis and decreased
overall fitness of the tree. Branch loss increases but not until 1-2 years after a drought!
Bud-set, shoot growth, winter hardiness, food reserves, growth and ability to deal with
stress are all reduced the year after a drought
What effects will I see on insect pest populations the year of and after the drought?
The effect is not directly on the insect population, but rather a decrease in levels of
defense chemicals within the plants that allow them to tolerate or repel extensive feeding.
Resin flow reduction during drought can lead to an increase in bark beetles as can
reduced levels of repellent chemicals manufactured by the plants.
Are there some specific plants that need extra preparation or attention under the threat
of drought?
Yes, birches require extra attention. Bronze birch borer cannot survive in a healthy tree,
but a drought allows the borer to survive and wound the vascular system of the tree until
it dies. A simple pattern of watering regularly from the outset can prevent borer attack.
Birch can be immune to birch borer with as little as 1” of water per week in summer.
Are there specific pests that use the one two punch of extreme heat and drought to pick
on specific plants?
Piercing-sucking insects also pick on drought stressed trees, particularly lace-bugs and
mites. During drought, the tree cannot outgrow the injury, plus the cells where feeding
occurs collapse leading to more water problems. Extreme heat coupled with drought also
increases the number of pest generations per season and decreases activity by natural
predators and pathogens of the pests so you have a no-win situation.
Does drought have any effects on canker?
Yes. Extended drought also reduces the ability of plants to wall off disease attack so a
sharp increase in cankers is usually seen the year after drought, e.g., Cytospora on
Colorado blue spruce, and Armillaria (shoestring rot).
Many of my plantings died during the drought even though I did every thing right.
Why?
If a plant DOES die due to drought it may indicate that the patient wasn’t too healthy to
begin with. Pests and diseases are often NOT the first signs or symptoms of trouble but
they may be one of the last.