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Surface Treatment Guide
Surface Treatment Guide
Surface characteristics of pigments, composite materials and other particles can be modified with surface
treatments. Increased hydrophobicity and softness are often desired for colour care applications, whereas
liposome systems and other speciality applications have other requirements. Photostabilizing otherwise
reactive ingredients such as Iron Oxides, is of importance in day care applications and colour cosmetics.
Créations Couleurs offers a wide range of surface treatments in many product ranges. The following treatments
are available for our Colourmat® and Serisoft® colour composites and for our Micapoly®, Nylonpoly® and
Talcpoly® products. We can also custom tailor surface treatments to fit individual formulating needs, and
The Innovation Company®
any of the preservative systems in our treatments can be modified upon request.
AF
surface treatment is based on Hydrogenated Polydecene, which is a completely photostable and inert
emollient. AF gives additional softness and emolliency to powder products. Due to the branched
structure of Hydrogenated Polydecene, AF treated materials bring good binding properties to powder
formulations.
INCI: Hydrogenated Polydecene
DF
products are treated with Hydrogenated Polyisobutene and Dimethicone, which give a silicone-like
softness and hydrophobic surface characteristics. DF treated products have excellent photostability.
They are ideal for colour care applications.
INCI: Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (and) Dimethicone
FLWJ
treatment consists of Soy amino acids and Jasmine flower wax. The surface charge is modified so that
the FLWJ treated particles create 3D-structures. This makes them ideal for volume compacting as the
3D-structure gives airiness and lightness to powder applications. FLWJ treatment is suitable for natural
cosmetics.
INCI: Soy Amino Acids (and) Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Flower Wax
HB
is a Methicone treatment, which gives soft feel and hydrophobic characteristics. Methicone treatment
enhances wetting properties of the particles, and it has excellent photostablility.
INCI: Methicone
LL
treated particles bring a rich, creamy and soft feel to products due to the skin conditioning Lauroyl
Lysine. LL treated materials are suitable for formulations in which long lasting application is desired.
The LL treatment works as a binding aid and it is stable under high heat conditions.
INCI: Lauroyl Lysine
LVS
treated products have soft and smooth feel and they provide skin care benefits as they contain Lecithin,
Meadowfoam Seed Oil and Squalane. Due to the hydrogenated natural ingredients as coating materials,
LVS treated products are very stable against oxidation, and they are photostable, so they permit to
use skin care claims, such as anti-aging, in colour care applications. LVS treatment is ideal for natural
cosmetics.
INCI: Zea Mays (Corn) Starch (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) Hydrogenated Meadowfoam Seed Oil (and)
Squalane
MSL
treatment consists of Sorbitan Stearate, Glycoproteins and Isododecane. MSL treatment is the type of
surface treatment, which is suitable for liposome systems, as it does not disrupt their structure.
INCI: Sorbitan Stearate (and) Glycoproteins (and) Isododecane
PFC
is a treatment based on an omniphobic perfluorocarbon, Perfluoroperhydroanthrene. This treatment is
especially compatible with Tefpoly® range, which is based on PTFE. PFC treatment creates a bonding
between the PTFE and pigments and lakes offering a smooth feel and superior lasting properties.
INCI: Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene
SIL
is a Dimethicone treatment, which gives soft feel and hydrophobic surface characteristics. HB treated
products have excellent photostability and binding properties. They make powders compactable due to
the improved cohesion as well as ease the application of the powder.
INCI: Dimethicone
TZ
treatment is ideal for mattifying applications as the treatment contains a bio-polymer, which reduces the
size of sebum droplets allowing them to be absorbed by the underlying material such as mica or nylon. TZ
treated materials have a long lasting mattifying effect for powders or emulsions.
INCI: Sodium C8-16 Isolkylsuccinyl Soy Protein Sulfonate (and) Dimethicone (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate
ZP
treatment modifies the material so that it has positive surface charge at skin pH of 5,5. This makes ZP
treated materials ideal for very long lasting colour care applications, especially eye shadows and blushers.
INCI: Corn Starch Modified (and) Polyquaternium-10 (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and)
Butylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben*
*Preservative system can be modified upon customer’s request.
This is not a comprehensive list of our treatments, as we make custom tailored products as well. If you are looking
for a treatment based on a specific ingredient, we could be your partner with new colour developments.
Surface Treatment Table
Each surface treatment improves the functionality and gives additional properties to their base materials. In order to find a
suitable treatment according to the formulation, this table defines the characteristics of each surface treatment and guides on
the suitable applications.
Surface
Treatment
Properties
INCI Name
Function
Typical Application
Hydrogenated Polydecene
binder, emolliency, softness
powders
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
(and) Dimethicone
hydrophobicity, silky skin feel
foundations,
emulsions
Soy Amino Acids (and) Jasminum
Officinale (Jasmine) Flower Wax
binder, lightness in skin feel
foundations,
two way cakes
HB
Methicone
hydrophobicity, enhanced
wetting properties, smoothness
powders,
foundations
LL
Lauroyl Lysine
creamy softness, heat stability
binding aid
foundations,
emulsions,
stick applications
LVS
Zea Mays (Corn) Starch (and)
Hydrogenated Lecithin (and)
Hydrogenated Meadowfoam
Seed Oil (and) Squalane
softness and skin care claims
emulsions
MSL
Sorbitan Stearate (and)
Glycoproteins (and) Isododecane
emulsion stabilizer
liposomes and
other delivery systems
PFC
Perfluoroperhydrophenanthrene
superior lasting properties,
omniphobicity, anti-age
powders, foundations,
lipsticks
SIL
Dimethicone
hydrophobicity, smoothness
in application
foundations,
emulsions
TZ
Sodium C8-16 Isolkylsuccinyl
Soy Protein Sulfonate (and)
Dimethicone (and)
Trimethylsiloxysilicate
mattifying, long lasting
properties, anti-sebum
powders,
foundations,
emulsions
ZP
Corn Starch Modified (and)
Polyquaternium-10
*preservative system
improved skin adherence, long
lasting application
powders,
foundations
AF
DF
© TIC 0912 / 0912
FLWJ
Skin Care Suitable for natural
cosmetics
Sun Care
Hydrophobic
Colour Care
Hydrophilic
The Innovation Company
6 rue Jules Pasdeloup
28109 Dreux France
theinnovationcompany.fr
+33 (0)2 37 42 18 34