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Graves 1 Harry Graves Paper #1 November 7, 2004 Christmas in Northeast A light wind blows from the north, swirling large snowflakes as I walk east on Independence Avenue, which, if Kansas City were a Monopoly board, would be Oriental Avenue, in my estimation—a bit more upscale than Baltic or Mediterranean but not as chic as St. Charles, States, or Virginia. The air itself smells cold, and the breeze carries the homey smell of smoke from the woodburning stoves and fireplaces and the pungent odor of amphetamines simmering in the neighborhood’s many meth labs. I hear a customer placing his order at the McDonald’s drive-through: “Yes, I'd like a number three value meal supersized with a large Coke, a nickel-bag, and a speed ball.” In Northeast, even the drug dealers are so poor that that have to work at McDonalds. The good news is that this provides handy one-stop shopping. After a few second’s delay, the speaker crackles, and then a voice replies: “That’s a number three value meal supersized with a Dr. Pepper, a nickel-bag, and a speed ball?’ “No,” the customer says, somewhat wearily, “a number three value meal supersized with a large Coke, a nickel-bag, and a speed ball.” Graves 2 Moments later, the speaker crackles again, and the voice from within says “It’ll be just a couple minutes on the speed ball. Pull over to the curb, and the manager will bring it out to you. Please pull forward and pay at the window.” Across the street a pair of female police officers are masquerading as hookers, though they might as well be wearing their uniforms, as they’re not fooling anyone. They have teeth, shoes, and no visible scars or tattoos, and they look as if they eat on a regular basis. There are nineteen tattoo parlors in Northeast. There are no dentists. I turn north on Hardesty, and I see a variety of colorful Christmas displays glowing cheerfully in people’s front yards. The first one is an upside-down shopping cart with a crucifix sticking up from it, all intertwined with small white lights. In the next yard illuminated figures of Joseph and Mary look down from a Price Chopper shopping cart; the three wise men look down from an Apple Market shopping cart; and a camel, sheep, cow, and donkey are crowded into an Aldi shopping cart. All gaze adoringly at the baby Jesus cradled in a Family Dollar shopping cart stuffed with straw and a white sheet left over from the Halloween display. In the next yard is a twenty-foot pole mounted on a tripod base, around which are four pink flamingoes festooned with garlands of Christmas greenery decorated with red balls and bows. At the top of the pole is an unidentifiable shopping cart outlined in small white lights and set at a rakish angle as if it’s taking Graves 3 off toward the North Pole. In a yard across the street are the wire frames formed like deer outlined in small white lights. The display fills me with serenity until I notice the deer are positioned so that one is mounting the other, and I wonder if this conveys the proper Christmas message or if it’s appropriate for children to see. As I walk, I glance up and down the side streets and notice the power lines are festooned with pairs of shoes, all kinds of shoes, enough, I would imagine, to shoe the entire barefoot population of Arkansas. This hanging of shoes from the utility lines is a local custom, as I learned from a neighbor, who makes his living tossing the shoes over the lines, which is no easy task and for which he is paid five dollars per pair, fifteen if he provides the shoes. I notice that some of the shoes have colorful Christmas balls hanging from the laces while others have tiny silver sleigh bells which jingle softly in the breeze, evidence that those who wanted the shoes in front of their houses, like everyone else in Northeast, apparently, is filled with the spirit of the holiday. The pavement, where it is visible, sparkles with broken glass from car windows that have been broken out, not by thieves necessarily but by young people expressing that joy and vitality of youth, who magically transform every night in Northeast into Crystal Nacht. Along with the sparkle of the broken glass I see the occasional gleam of needles from syringes in the gutter. Apparently there are many diabetics in Graves 4 Northeast, and while I feel sorry for them, I wish they would dispose of their needles in a more responsible and sanitary manner, though that would deprive the local kids of a favorite amusement: playing doctor with the needles and giving each other shots. Through the snow-filled air I hear the bells at Holy Cross church chiming and the usual sporadic gunfire in the distance. As I pass one house, I notice several men bent over in the driveway, their heads stuck beneath the lime-green hood of a black 1988 Ford Escort LE with one yellow and one red quarter panel. On the back window is a decal that says “Bad A** (Armenian?) Boys Drive Bad A** (Alpine?) Toys.” The doors of the car are open, and from the stereo I hear Christmas rap: “Yo, Homies! Listen up to what I’m laying down! Better not jump ugly! Better not cop an attitude! I’m rappin straight to y’all! M * * * * F * * * * (my friend?) Santa Clause is comin to the M * * * * * F * * * * * (moderately friendly?) hood, know what I'm sayin, N * * * * ?! (neighbors?)” Nailed to a utility pole is a handmade sign advertising a yard sale from last fall, with the drugs and their prices listed in a black magic marker scrawl with many misspellings. I look across the street into Budd Park. The streetlamps cast a soft glow, like a scene from a greeting card, and I see that the sparkling snow, as well as the pool pavilion and the circumambient houses, is spray-painted with gang graffiti in a variety of festive colors. Graves 5 In Northeast, even the wild animals have tattoos and belong to gangs. For instance, “The Tree Posse,” which includes the squirrels, birds, and possums, controls Budd Park, whereas Gladstone Boulevard, the reservoir, and Cliff Drive are definitely “The Gutter Boyz” (the raccoons, foxes, and stray dogs) turf. A pair of spotlights shine through the falling snow, casting small, dancing shadows on the large American flag waving majestically on the roof of the Northeast post office, which is housed in “Brother Hood’s” New and Used Guns and Ammo, Indoor Firing Range, Reloading Supplies, and Survival Gear; We BuySell-Trade War Trophies; Viet Nam Veteran Anger Management Clinic and Employment Office; Beer, Wine-Making, and Bow Hunting Supplies; Deer Processing, Camouflage Clothing, Organic Anti-Depressant, and Live Bait Boutique. I turn right on St. John and continue past Barrio Burger, Mafia Cuts hair styling, El Pollution y Carbon Taco-teria, and Northeast’s only legitimate industry: “Fresh out O’the Tap” Bottled Water. As I reach the bottom of the long hill, I smell irresistible odors of cooking from Mohammed Nguyen’s check-cashing/ pawn/ payday loan/ coin-operated laundry/ dry cleaners/ tattoo/ psychic palm reader/ acupuncture/ beauty/ nail salon/ discount liquors/ quality used cars and front end alignment/ day care/ cell phone and pager/ Northeast Democratic Club/ license bureau/ notary public/ immigration legal services/ bail bonds/ pet store/ Graves 6 rent-a-center/ Vietnamese/ Chinese/ Thai/ sushi/ Cajun/ Tex-Mex restaurant and carwash with its four slogans: “We are Vietnamese if you please; but by the same token, we are Vietnamese if you don’t please,” “We wok your dog!” “Se Habla Espanol,” and “We accept food stamps—50¢ on the dollar” in purple and green neon script. In the front window is posted the daily special: my choice of Kung Pao Peek-a-Poo or Moo Goo Gai Calico with fried rice, Rottweiler Rangoon, gerbil-drop soup, and fortune cookie for only $3.75. This sounds too good to pass up, so I walk inside, order the Moo Goo Gai Calico plate and pay at the counter, receive my change in pesos, food stamps, and yen, and slump into a booth by the window. Soon Rosa brings the steaming food to my table. “Quatro sir vesa. Dondey estay la bibliotecka, see voo play moochachose,” I tell her, sliding the food stamps from my change toward her as a gratuity (most of us Nor’easters are at least nominally multilingual, as even the briefest visit to O'Reilly's at Van Brunt and Independence Avenue will prove). She smiles and nods, slipping the tip into her apron pocket. The food is rich and salty—delicious! After cleaning my plate, I open my fortune cookie and see that the fortune is written in Swedish, Swahili, Sudanese, and Spanish. I ask Rosa to translate for me, and she tells me that according to my fortune, I will die at 4:36 tomorrow afternoon. Full and warm, I lean back and look out the window to see a commotion in the intersection of St. John and Topping. Soon I realize that two armed men Graves 7 involved in a road-rage incident have inadvertently interfered with a carjacking, and the various parties are noisily trying to sort things out. I sigh with contentment. All is well—Christmas has arrived in “The Hood.”