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Simple EL84 Basic layout DIY Paradise 13 June 2003 “EL84 doesn’t sing without feedback.” “EL84 has no bass.” These are comments I gleamed off the World Wide Web from various places. The truth is, if the circuit is done CORRECTLY, then all the above points are moot. This circuit uses NO GLOBAL FEEDBACK and it has BASS! Listening is king. But you can’t listen to one until you have built one right? Note that the layout shown in the following pages are specific for • this implementation wires the EL84 in ultra-linear configuration. • this implementation has filaments of 4-0-4V, meant for 8BQ5. Use 3.150-3.15V for 6BQ5 or use a resistor to drop the voltage to 6.3V. • Hammond output transformer, particularly the 1650x series. • using one half of ECC99 for each channel. You could, of course, opt to use one tube for both channels, or use some other tube, say 5687. Wiring will be different then. Schematic Signal circuitry property of diyparadise.com Schematic Power supply circuitry property of diyparadise.com Wiring the Simple EL84 is just a tad more complicated than the Simple 5687. If you can understand the wiring of the Simple 5687, the Simple EL84 shouldn’t be too difficult. Basic rules still apply. If you have forgotten them, please read the Simple 5687 layout file again. Layout of the Simple EL84 is slightly different. We are dealing with very hot components here. The EL84 is one hot tube! When planning the layout, please ensure adequate ventilation between tubes. 1.5-2” between each tubes should be okay. Please note that I didn’t show wiring of volume pot, input RCA socket etc. If you have built the Simple 5687, then I don’t want to repeat myself. As usual, safety first. SAFETY FIRST: REMEMBER TO SOLDER IN BLEEDER RESISTOR! REMEMBER TO “EARTH THE CHASSIS”! Input RCA jack Speaker binding post IEC socket Power transformer Choke EL84 EL84 Output trans ECC99 Chassis Layout Top View Output trans ECC99 EL84 Stereo volume pot EL84 Input RCA jack Speaker binding post IEC socket 100uf/ 450V Choke Ground Signal lines run from RCA socket to volume pot. Chassis Layout Bottom View Ground Layout Stereo volume pot 240-0-240V 100uf/ 450V Ground 100kohm 5W Bleeder resistor. Very important!!!!! Tap B+ from here Colour-coded Wire from Hammond Output Trans Chassis Layout Bottom View Power supply circuitry layout Colour-coded Wire from Hammond Output Trans Bias network Goes to B+ (be careful!) 23kohm / 4W 0.33uF 390ohm / ½ W 470uF/10V (optional) 9 1 8 2 7 3.15-0-3.15V 9 3 6 5 4 1 8 9 2 7 3 6 5 4 1 8 2 7 3 6 5 4 ECC99 EL84 220kohm / ½ W Stereo volume pot 4-0-4V Chassis Layout Bottom View Signal circuitry layout (One channel only) EL84 In case this isn’t clear enough, pot center tap goes to YHLMCCS, while the other 2 ends, go to both cathodes (pin 3) of EL84. 15 ohm / ½ W 500 ohm pot / ½ W Current sensing resistor 1-1.2 ohm / ½ W YHLMCCS Current sensing resistor 1-1.2 ohm / ½ W 9 1 8 EL84 9 2 7 3 6 Ground 5 1 8 2 7 4 Chassis Layout Bottom View Bias network (One channel only) 3 6 5 4 EL84 YH’s Lazy Man Constant Current Source Using LM317, TO-220 package, preferably with heatsink. Vin goes to pot (bias network) center tap. Vout goes to GND. Resistor between ADJ and Vout determines current. For Simple EL84, 40mA per EL84, use 16 ohm 1W. Chassis Layout Bottom View YHLMCCS (One channel only) Build the YHLMCCS on a small protoboard to make life easier for you. 0 4 ohm Colour-coded Wire from Hammond Output Trans (secondary side) Chassis Layout Bottom View Output section (speaker binding post) 8 ohm Very easy to build. Start with the grounding scheme first, followed by heaters. The heater center taps, you could bring to GND or elevate it to some potential. Then build the power supply, followed by the signal circuitry. Check wiring, again and again and again. Oh yeah, please fit in 5A fuse before powering up. Power it up, check all the voltage points are within 10% of the schematic. If they are different, check for incoming AC and/or heater voltage. After tubes are warmed up (say after a minute), check voltage on current sensing resistor. It should read ~40mV. Both tubes on each channel should draw the same amount. If current draw is different, adjust 500 ohm pot. Be careful that you don’t touch any high voltage points. When both tubes conduct same amount of current (+/-5mA), you are ready to play! By the time you reach this point, you should be having a truly wonderful musical machine. This amp has surpassed all my expectations. It delivers 10W and oh! What a sweet beautiful 10W! 10W can drive lots of speakers, but it’s no slouch either with high sensitivity speakers. In other words, this amp should be able to last for a while as you change your speakers. Just don’t give it power hungry speakers. I’ve talked too much. Enjoy your music.