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Lotions:
Beauty As Medicine
Aging with style, health & sex-appeal.
Dale Bellisfield, RN, RH(AHG)
Medical Herbalist
www.herbaldale.com
Potions, Notions & Lotions Medicine Series
New Jersey Center for Healthy Living
Montclair, NJ
21 October, 2012
The information contained in the following presentation is
not intended to substitute for a health care practitioner’s diagnosis,
advice or treatment.
It is based on the education, experience and research of the
author, and is included as part of an overall program for wellness.
Before using any drug, supplement, food or herb described
in this material or in the presentation, each individual should
consult with a qualified health care practitioner for guidance with
individual medical problems.
Any attempt to diagnose or treat an illness should be done
under the supervision of a health care professional.
The author is not responsible for any adverse effects or
consequences resulting from the use of the following information.
Always discontinue any substance taken if signs of skin
rash, light sensitivity, difficulty breathing or gastro-intestinal upset
occurs, and report this to your health care professional.
Prescription medication should be discontinued ONLY with
the approval and supervision of a physician.
©2012
Contents
Intro Current Situation.
 Aging Overview
 Skin Nutrients, Wrinkles, Irritants.
 Within Nourishment, Sleep, Movement,






Stress Management, Intimacy.
Beauty Medicines Terms, Essential Oils,
Action, Carrier Oils, Baths.
Recipes Massage Oil, Bath Salts, Lotion, Salve.
Hot Topics Hormones.
Resources Web, Books, Products.
Summary Take-Home Info.
Intro
Intro
 Do
not regret growing older. It is a privilege
denied to many.
 Hard to think of it as a blessing in our youthobsessed culture.
 Anti-aging medicine is now a clinical specialty.
 Goal to prolong the healthy lifespan in humans:
 Fasting & calorie restriction. (+35-70 years)
 High-tech biomedicine. (+15-30)
 Anti-aging drugs. (+10-20)
 Exercise & lifestyle. (+10-20)
 Artificial organs. (+8-20)
 Nanotechnology. (+7-20)
 Stem cell therapies. (+6-15)
 Genetic screening & interventions. (+3-10)
 Advanced prospective diagnostics. (+3-10)
http://www.worldhealth.net/static/images/slideshow/AboutAAM_Primer.pdf
Intro
 Maintain telomere health.
 Telomeres are structures on
ends of chromosomes
that protect DNA.
 Shorten with age, cell damage, inflammation,
alcohol.
 Increases risk of heart disease, cancer, arthritis,
Alzheimer’s, etc.
 Keeping telomeres lengthened/slow rate of decay
may help.
 Fish oil, acetyl-l-carnitine, anthocyanidins,
N-acetylcysteine, Vitamin D, associated with/
protect long telomeres.

Fossel M, Woynarowski D, Can You “Reset” Your Genes?, Bottom Line Health, 5-6, March 2012.
 Much else you can do.
 Diet, exercise, lifestyle
interventions.
Aging
Aging
 Researchers
from Harvard School of Public
Health found that the longest-living Americans
are Asian-American women living in
Bergen County, NJ!!!
 They live longer than any other US ethnic group,
average lifespan of 91.1 years.
 Bergen County overall, people live longer than
any other county in northeastern US, @80 years.
http://www.nytimes.com/2006/09/12/nyregion/12longevity.html?pagewanted=print
 Researchers
also found that anti-aging lifestyle
can add 24.6 more years of productive lifespan.
 All risk factors & diseases that led to mortality
differences in the study were modifiable.
Murray C, et al, Eight
Americas: Investigating Mortality Disparities across Races, Counties, and Race-Counties in the United States, Harvard School of Public
Health, PLOS Medicine, online, http://www.plosmedicine.org/article/info:doi/10.1371/journal.pmed.0030260, 12 Sept 2006.
Aging
 Portland
State U. study examined how 2,432
elders maintained exceptionally good health.
 Tracked participants’ health for 10 years.
 Found the most important predictors of excellent
health throughout the decade:
 Absence of chronic illness.
 Income over $30,000.
 Never smoked.
 Moderate alcohol intake.
 Maintained a positive outlook.
 Managed stress levels.
 Many of these factors can be modified now (in
youth or middle-age).
Kaplan MS, Huguet N, Orpana H, Feeny D, McFarland BH, Ross N. “Prevalence and factors associated with thriving in older
adulthood: a 10-year population-based study.” J Gerontol A Biol Sci Med Sci. 2008 Oct;63(10):1097-104.
Aging
 Americans
are living longer, 79.4 in 1950,
84 years old in 2000.
 About 1 in 8 Americans are over 65, by 2030
it will be 1 in 5.
 Aging is slow, relatively minor process until 9th
or 10th decade.
 We can slow the process in many ways, &
thrive instead of just survive.
 Age gracefully: enjoy healthful diet, exercise
moderately, reduce chronic stress impact, nurture
close relationships, cultivate spiritual practice,
discover what gives meaning to your life.
 Change what we can, release everything else.
Howard B, What to Expect in Your 60’s, AARP Magazine, 57-61, Oct/Nov 2012.
Aging
 Menopause is not pathology, but natural process.
 Estimated by 2015, 50% of all US women will
be menopausal.
 Estimated 50-75% women use alternative
therapies to manage symptoms.
Romm A , Botanical Medicine for Women’s Health, Churchill Livingstone, 455, 2010.
Romm A, Botanical Medicine & Women’s Health,Curchill/Livingtone, 469, 2009.
 Integrative
/holistic program is person-specific,
including foods, supplements, customformulated herbal blends & lifestyle guidance.
 Reframe concept from loss & dread to honoring.
Aging
Oldest
known images of women, 35-40,000
years old.
(no male images found…)
Embrace inner (neolithic) goddess.
Seek new elder role models.
Recent AARP survey showed from early 50’s on,
happiness increases over time: we get happier.
Iris Apfel, interior designer, fashion icon,
2011 face of MAC cosmetics, 91.
Jane Goodall, primatologist, ethologist,
anthropologist, UN Messenger of Peace, 78.
Skin
Skin
Plays major role in health—
 Largest organ of the body.
 Protects internal organs from injury & infection.
 Provides a barrier to keep moisture in,
microorganisms out.
 Protects against temperature changes between
outer & inner environment.
 Absorbs & excretes nutrients & toxins via pores.
 Clears wastes & cools the body via sweat.
 Waterproofs & lubricates via waxy/oily sebum.
 Helps make vitamin D from the sun.
 Provides sense of touch, pressure, pain, heat, cold.
Skin
 Each
cubic centimeter (@3/8” x 3/8” x 3/8”)
contains 6 million cells, 15 sebaceous glands,
100 sweat glands, 5,000 nerve endings,
5 yards of blood vessels.
 Plus collagen fibers for strength & stability,
elastin fibers for resilience & elasticity.
 Over half the body’s blood supply feeds the skin.
 Healthy skin is over 50% water.
 Needs nutrients & oxygen from the blood to
make new cells.
 The epidermis has no blood vessels, receives
nutrition from the underlying dermis layer.
Skin
 Skin dries with age & more age spots.
 Our skin is driest in winter when temperatures
& humidity levels drop.
 Central heating, wood burning stoves, space
heaters, fireplaces all draw out moisture.
 Frequent showering or bathing, especially in
heavily chlorinated water, frequent swimming,
break down skin’s lipid barriers.
 Many soaps/detergents strip lipids & water.
 Products containing fragrances are harsher, more
irritating than unscented.
 Deodorant & antibacterial soaps usually the most
damaging.
Skin
 Skin conditions reflect body’s internal situation.
 Liver & kidney insufficiency, constipation,
low fluid intake, diet, stress often relate to
chronic skin issues.
 Mind-skin connection in many skin disorders
(acne, eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, vitiligo, etc).
 Massage & other relaxation therapies enhance
mood & also improve skin.
 Exercise helps body sweat out toxins from pores
in skin.
Skin
Nutrients
 Everything
you eat & apply becomes part of
your skin.
 60% of compounds absorbed through the skin,
to protect, heal, moisturize (or irritate, inflame,
injure) tissues.
 Healthier your foods, the better your skin.
 Feed your skin from inside & outside.
 Treat the symptom and underlying condition.
 External applications are good for treating tissues
close to the surface—cut, burn, rash, abrasion.
 Internal applications good for chronic issues.
Skin
Nutrients
 Study demonstrates that a carotenoid-rich diet
(beta-carotene, lycopene, lutein, zeaxanthin, etc.)
can help reduce skin aging.
 Strong correlation between skin wrinkles
& levels of lycopene in the skin.
 Consuming tomato paste, 2½ Tablespoons a day
for 10 weeks, reduced sunburn 40%.
 Peel of fruit and vegetables usually contains a
higher amount of carotenoids than the pulp.
Darvin M, et al, Resonance Raman spectroscopy for the detection of carotenoids in foodstuffs. Influence of the nutrition on the
antioxidative potential of the skin, Laser Physics Letters, 4(6), 452-456, June 2007.
 Diets
rich in olive oil, vegetables, legumes
correlate with less wrinkles.
Skin
Nutrients
Internally
Topically
 Alpha Lipoic Acid
 Aloe Vera
 Omega-3 Ess. Fats
 Avocado Oil
 Selenium
 Beneficial Microbes
 Silica
 Coconut Oil
 Vitamin A/Carotenes  Colloidal Oatmeal
 Vitamin B Complex  Evening Primrose Oil
 Vitamin C
 Jojoba Oil
 Vitamin E
 Olive Oil
 Vitamin K
 Rosehip Seed Oil
 Water
 Sea Buckthorn Oil
 Zinc
 Water
 White/Green Tea…
Skin
Nutrients
Green or White Tea
 Japanese adults who consumed higher amounts
of green tea had a lower risk of death due to all
causes.
 Internally, protects against sun damage, prevents
skin & other cancers, antioxidant.
 Topical formulations are antioxidant, reduce sun
damage, protect against UV light, reduce skin
inflammation.
 Combine green tea with zinc oxide-based
sunscreen.
 Drink green or white tea daily, steeped 3 minutes.
without milk (inactivates antioxidants).
 Supplement green tea extract in capsules,
standardized for polyphenols & catechins.
ScienceDaily, online, 13 Sept 2006.
Skin
Nutrients
In a 2007 University of Alabama Birmington study, mice were
exposed to skin carcinogens.
The mice were divided into groups. Some of the groups were
treated with green tea by substituting it for their drinking water.
Others were treated topically with green tea extract. Some of the
groups of mice were already suffering from skin cancer, as well.
The research concluded that all of the mice benefited from the
green tea treatment, whether it was given orally or applied topically.
In every group, the green tea was effective at preventing skin cancer.
The study found that green tea applied topically seems to scavenge
and destroy skin cells that are likely to become cancerous before they
can mutate.
The green tea, whether given orally or applied topically, slowed
down the cancer growth in the mice that were already infected.
In addition, green tea given orally seemed to cause some regression of
existing skin cancer.
Katiyar S, Elmets CA, Katiyar SK. Green tea and skin cancer: photoimmunology, angiogenesis and DNA repair. J Nutr Biochem. 2007
May;18(5):287-96.Univ
Skin
Nutrients
 Jeanne-Louise
Calment lived to 122, the oldest
authenticated person in history
(February 21, 1875 - August 4, 1997).
 She smoked until she was 117.
 But she ate more than two pounds of chocolate
a week until her MD had her give up sweets
at 119.
 2006 study showed drinking high antioxidant
cocoa drink daily for 12 weeks improved skin
texture & hydration.
Skin
Lifestyle Irritants
 Alcohol and caffeinated drinks
Increase skin dehydration/dryness.
 Environmental conditions
Weather, sleep, circulation, exercise, health, diet.
 Smoking
Irritates the skin, slows wound healing, brings
premature wrinkles, deprives skin of oxygen &
nutrients, damages collagen & elastin, decreases
blood flow to the skin, depletes vitamin C.
 Stress
Triggers or aggravates skin conditions.
 Sun damage Excess sun exposure & burns harm
the skin & promote aging, cancer.
 Trans fats
Promote inflammation, speed aging of the skin.
Skin
Chemical Irritants
 Put
on your skin only what you would put in
your mouth.
 Average adult American uses 9 personal care
products daily, exposing themselves to 126
different ingredients, including many industrial
chemicals.
 No definitions for natural, hypoallergenic,
alcohol-free, fragrance-free.
 Read labels carefully.
http://www.cleanandhealthyme.org/LinkClick.aspx?fileticket=7uqB2t8lR7U%3D&tabid=36
Skin
Chemical Irritants
“Dirty Dozen” cosmetic chemicals to avoid—
 BHA & BHT
 Coal-tar dyes
 DEA, cocamide DEA, lauramide DEA
 Dibutyl pthalate
 Formaldehyde releasing preservatives
 Paraben, methylparaben, butylparaben &
propylparaben
 Parfum
 PEG Compounds, PEG-60
 Petrolatum
 Siloxanes
 Sodium laureth sulphate
 Triclosan
David Suzuki Foundation 2010
Skin
Chemical Irritants
 Lead: Lipsticks (Y.S.L. has highest lead amount.)
Dr. Nahid Neman, Mt. Sinai Hospital, Toronto, Canada
 Mineral Oil
 Phenol Carbolic Acid
 Phthalate Family: Di-n-butyl
Phthalate (DBP)/Di
(2-ethylhexyl) Phthalate (DEHP)
 Women with high urinary phthalates linked with
50-70% risk of diabetes.
 Phthlates found in soaps, nail polishes, hair
sprays, perfumes, moisturizers.
Preidt R, Study Ties Chemicals in Beauty Products to Women’s Diabetes Risk, Haelth Day online, 13 July 2012.
 Propylene Glycol: Butylene Glycol
 Synthetic colorants: Red No. 3,Yellow
 Talc www.greenlivingonline, Jan 30, 2008
No.5
Skin
Wrinkles
 Wrinkles
come with age, but prevention helps
lessen them.
 Caused by smoking, sun exposure damage,
low skin pigment, heredity.
 Worse on areas exposed to sun.
 Topical treatments more effective for fine lines.
 Deeper furrows require more invasive techniques.
 Peels, dermabrasion, resurfacing, heat/radiofrequency, fillers, botox, surgery.
Within
Within
Self-care checklist.
Restoratives to protect
& sustain us,
grow us into & through our elder years:
Nourishment
Sleep
Movement
Stress management
Intimacy
Self actualization
Resilience & humor
Love & gratitude
Social connection
Spiritual life
Within
Nourishment
Quality fluids (water, green tea, rooibos, tulsi tea).
Avoid hot foods in plastic/cooking in plastic.
Avoid/minimize high-temp cooked foods.
Incorporate low glycemic/Mediterranean,
varied diet of phytoestrogen-rich, whole foods:
Nuts & seeds (flax)
Fruits & vegetables (crucifers, pomegranates)
Organic/hormone-free/grass-fed meats, dairy
Whole grains
Mushrooms
Healthy fats & oils (coconut, seeds, chocolate...)
Seaweeds
Safe seafood
Beans, legumes (traditional soy)
Within
Sufficient Sleep
 Lack
of sufficient sleep (6+ hours) results in
elevation of stress hormone, cortisol.
 Cortisol raises blood sugar & insulin levels,
setting up carb craving.
 Low sleep interferes with appetite-regulating
hormones, blunts insulin response.
 Low sleep is associated with a 60% higher rate
of diabetes.
 Low sleep linked to higher breast cancer risk.
U of Md Med nter, 2009.
Within
Movement
shows those the least fit in their 40’s &
50’s developed the most chronic conditions
early in their aging process.
 The most fit lived longer, with less debility.
 Exercise reduces inflammation, a component of
many chronic conditions.
 Moderate exercise, 30 minutes a day, more
efficient for weight loss than an hour a day.
 Reduces coronary artery disease risk 14%.
 Reduces breast cancer risk, increases survival.
 Study
National
Cancer Inst., 12 March 10.
 Training
in interval, strength, core & stretching.
Mercola J, Getting Fit By the Age of 50 Helps Prevent Disease in Your “Golden Years”, Peak Fitness, Mercola.com, 9 Oct 2012.
Within
Stress Management
 Greater
life stress & stress reactivity cause central
fat accumulation, especially in lean women.
 Fat is sensitive to the stress hormone cortisol,
& grows in response to it.
 Some make more cortisol than others.
 Central fat linked to risk of heart disease, stroke,
diabetes, cancer.
 Those with high waist-to-hip ratio (>0.80 F)
indicates fat storage at the waist, lean or obese,
& more vulnerable to stress.
 Other factors for central fat include sex hormones,
smoking, alcohol, sedentary, insufficient sleep.
Epel E, et al, Stress and Body Shape: Stress-Induced Cortisol Depletion in Consistently Greater Among Women with Central Fat,
Psychosomatic Medicine, 62(5), 623-632, 1 Sept 2000.
Within
Stress Management
 High
levels of stress may increase breast cancer
risk via increased cortisol.
Czyzewski A, MEDWIRENEWS, Oncology 25 Jan 2008.
 Women
with prolonged stress and trauma have
doubled risk of breast cancer recurrence.
Bankhead C, Medpage Today, 27 Sept 2007.
 Participants
in relaxation program show lower
levels of stress hormone & higher breast tumor
antibody levels.
 Also allowed full dosage of chemo and reduced
depression.
Doctor’s Guide, 23 Aug 1999.
Within
Intimacy
 Recent U. of California San Diego School of
Medicine study found 2/3 of sexually active
women, average age 67, moderately or very
satisfied with their sex lives.
Howard B, What to Expect in Your 60’s, AARP Magazine, 57-61, Oct/Nov 2012.
sex-related hormones decline, women’s
sexual satisfaction rises with age.
 Sex boosts immunity, linked to higher infectionprotecting IgA in once or twice a week activity.
 Physical contact increases hormone oxytocin,
which builds trust, generosity, reduces pain,
promotes sleep.
 Many effective personal lubricants available,
including organic coconut oil (extra virgin!).
 While
Doheny K, Health & Sex, WebMD online, 19 Oct 2012.
Beauty
Medicine
Beauty
Terms
 Bath Herbal infusions, salts &/or essential oils (5-10 drops) can be added to
bathwater to promote relaxation, reduce pain, open sinuses.
 Carrier Oil Base oil to dilute essential oil, spread its benefits & slow its
absorption into the skin. Sweet almond, organic lanolin, cocoa butter , herbinfused oils, other pressed oils. Max 5-10% of massage oil is essential oil.
@ 25 drops total essential oil in 1 oz. carrier oil
 Compress Direct application of a cloth, soaked in hot or cold herbal
infusion or decoction, to painful muscles/joints, headaches.

Emulsified blend of water- & oil-based plant material., with
beeswax added to firm the texture.
 Decoction Simmered infusion. Tougher plant materials added to cold
water, heated to boiling, simmered 20-40 minutes, then strained.
Cream
Beauty
 Essential
Terms
Oil Oil within the plant extracted out via distillation process.
Much plant material yields very little oil. Oils have many actions topically,
internally, via inhalation. Used in aromatherapy, massage oils, foods, topical
products. Buy only pure aromatherapy-grade.
 Hot-Cold Soak Water therapy to increase circulation & relieve pain
in body part soaked. Soak (hands/feet) in very hot water 2 minutes, then very
cold water 30 seconds. Repeat 2 more times. Do 1-2 times a day.
 Infused Herb A tea of fresh or dried herbs in just-boiled water.
Steep covered 3-30 minutes (based on herb), strain & drink hot or cold.
Refrigerate up to 48 hours.

Plant material steeped in oil to extract oil-soluble
compounds . Used in massage oils, creams, salves/ointments.
 Liniment Herbal blend formulated for easy absorption through the skin,
often with alcohol or vinegar. Used for pain relief on muscles, joints, ligaments.
Infused Oil
Beauty
Terms
 Lotion A water-based mixture applied to moisten, soothe or blend
with skin.
 Poultice Chopped fresh herbs are heated and applied directly to an injury,
held in place with gauze.
 Salve/Ointment Semi-solid preparation of only oil-infused herbs,
with beeswax added to firm the texture. Used to protect skin.
 Steam Inhalation Used for relief of respiratory conditions. Basin is
half-filled with steaming water. Essential oils (5-10 drops) or 16 oz hot herbal
infusion added. Drape towel over head & basin to contain the steam. Inhale
normally 10 minutes , or until scent no longer detected., 1 to 2 times a day.
 Tincture A water-alcohol (25%-75%) extract of the herb, usually prepared
in a 1 to 5 part ratio (herb to liquid/menstruum). The mix is steeped several
weeks, pressed & strained.
Beauty
Essential Oils
 Molecules
of aromatic compounds transmitted to
the brain via receptors above & behind the nose.
 Effect is instantaneous, sending impulses to
amygdala, brain structure playing a key role in
processing emotions of fear & pleasure.
 Aromatic compounds enter the lungs, absorbed
by alveoli into blood.
 Pass into systemic circulation.
 Compounds also enter topically via skin, rates
vary per compound (20-120 minutes).
 Use of aromatics dates back to antiquity for
medicinal, personal & ceremonial use.
Beauty
Essential Oils
 Aromatic
compounds found in leaf, rind, blossom,
bark, root, seed, etc., but not found in all plants.
 Ancients crushed plant part, mixed it with animal
fat, then processed fat to remove oils.
 Modern essential oils are extracted via pressing,
steam distillation or solvent to release aromatic
oils bound within the plant.
 Very concentrated.
 1 ton of rose petals yields 10.5 oz. rose oil.
Lawless J, The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Essential Oils, 13, Barnes & Noble Books, 1995.
 May irritate sensitive skin if applied
 Most mixed with a carrier oil.
directly.
Beauty
Essential Oils
 Not studied scientifically until early 20th century.
 Many properties: powerfully anti-microbial,
wound-healing, mood altering, anti-inflammatory,
pain-relieving, broncho-dilating, anti-cancer, etc.
 Not oily, evaporate quickly, “volatile oils.”
 Like fixed oils, essential oils are easily absorbed
into our bodies.
 Small molecular size allows quick penetration
into skin, & general circulation.
 They dissolve in pure alcohol, fats & oils.
 Complex chemical structure contributes to aroma
& therapeutic action.
Beauty
Essential Oils
Eight major classes—








Monoterpene alcohols: Antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, stimulating &
sedative, uplifting aroma. Lavender, Geranium. Tea Tree, Peppermint
Sesquiterpene alcohols: Antiviral, anti-inflammatory, anti-cancer.
Frankincense, Cedar, Sandalwood, Spikenard, Vetiver, Carrot Seed.
Aldehydes: Anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, disnfectant, sedative in low
doses, bright aroma. Lemongrass, Lemon, Citronella, Lemon Verbena.
Esters: Antifungal, anti-spasmodic, anti-inflammatory, calming & sedative,
fruity & floral aromas. Roman Chamomile, Lavender, Geranium,
Wintergreen.
Ethers: Antimicrobial, analgesic, antispasmodic. Clove, Anise, Fennel
Ketones: Analgesic, regenerative. Jasmine, Fennel, Helichrysum.
Oxides: Expectorant, stimulant. Eucalyptus, Rosemary, Bay Laurel, Hyssop.
Phenols: Strongly anti-microbial, immune & nervous system stimulants,
irritating to mucous membranes. Thyme, Oregano, Clove, Savory.
The Ananda Apothecary, http://www.anandaapothecary.com/essentialoilchemistry.html
Beauty
Essential Oils: Today’s Top 10










Balsam Fir: Antiseptic, expectorant, anti-inflammatory, sedative.
Bergamot: Analgesic, anti-depressant, anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, digestive, sedative, for skin spots.
Jasmine: Anti-depressant, anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, anti-bacterial,
aphrodisiac, sedative, expectorant, for wrinkles, dry skin.
Lavender: Anti-depressant, relaxing, anti-anxiety, insomnia, anti-nausea, insect
repellant, for acne, burns, stretch marks, wounds, wrinkles, dry skin, skin spots,
headaches & insomnia.
Lemongrass: Analgesic, anti-bacterial, anti-cancer, sedative, for poor circulation.
Panaway (Wintergreen, Clove, Helichrysum, Peppermint): Mimimizes bruising,
relieves muscle tension.
Sandalwood: Antidepressant, urinary & pulmonary antiseptic, antispasmodic,
aphrodisiac, expectorant, bactericidal, for wrinkles, insomnia, dry skin.
Scotch Pine Analgesic, anti-anxiety, antimicrobial, antispasmodic, expectorant,
stimulant, for arthritis, cough & colds.
Tangerine: Anti-depressant, anti-anxiety, relaxant, immune stimulant.
Ylang Ylang: Antispasmodic, anti-depressant, antiseptic, for wrinkles, insomnia.
Lawless J, The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Essential Oils, 70-236, Barnes & Noble Books, 1995.
Beauty
Essential Oils: Action



For Arthritis: Allspice, angelica, benzoin, white birch, cajeput, camphor, (white),
carrot seed, cedarwood (Atlas, Texas & Virginia), celery seed, chamomile
(German & Roman), clove bud, coriander, eucalyptus (blue gum & peppermint),
silver fir, ginger, guaiac wood, juniper, lemon, sweet marjoram, mastic, myrrh,
nutmeg, parsley, black pepper, pine (longleaf & Scotch), rosemary, Spanish sage,
thyme, tumeric, turpentine, vetiver, yarrow.
For Constipation/Sluggish Digestion: Cinnamon leaf, cubeb, sweet fennel,
lovage, sweet marjoram, nutmeg, orange (bitter & sweet), palmarosa, black
pepper, tarragon, tumeric, yarrow.
For Dry Skin: Peru Balsam, Tolu balsam, cassie, chamomile (German &
Roman), frankincense, jasmine, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), rosewood,
sandalwood, violet.
Beauty
Essential Oils: Action
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For Insomnia: Lemon balm, French basil, calamintha. Chamomile (German &
Roman), hops, true lavender, linden, mandarin, sweet marjoram, orange
blossom/neroli, petitgrain, rose (cabbage & damask), sandalwood, thyme,
valerian, lemon verbena, vetiver, violet, yarrow, ylang ylang.
For Skin Spots: Bergamot, cade, cajeput, camphor (white), eucalyptus (lemon),
helichrysum, lavandin, lavender (spike & true), lemon, lime, litsea cubeba,
mandarin, niaouli, tea tree.
For Varicose Veins: Cypress, lemon, lime, orange blossom/neroli, yarrow.
For Wrinkles/Mature Skin: Carrot seed, elemi, sweet fennel, frankincense,
galbanum, geranium, jasmine, labdanum, true lavender, mandarin, mimosa,
myrrh, orange blossom/neroli, palmarosa, patchouli, rose (cabbage & damask),
rosewood, clary sage, sandalwood, spikenard, ylang ylang.
Beauty
Carrier Oils
 Fixed
oils which dilute & carry the essential
oils into the skin for massage/aromatherapy.
 Use organic, cold-pressed oils.
 Keep cool, away from direct light.
 Many suitable for culinary use & have other
healing properties.
Avocado Oil
 Reduces age spots, heals sun damage & scars,
increases collagen, moisturizing.
 Vitamin-rich for sensitive & problem skin.
 Store away from heat & light.
 High viscosity. Edible
Beauty
Carrier Oils
Evening Primrose Seed Oil
 One of the best oils for wrinkles & aging skin,
anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant.
 Increases skin resistance to UV rays, aids in blood
circulation.
 Rich in beneficial GLA fatty acid for skin health.
 Keep refrigerated. Do not heat.
 Food & cosmetic use.
Jojoba Liquid Plant Wax
 Similar to skin’s sebum, not greasy
 Does not clog pores or cause allergic reaction.
 Can be used around the eyes.
 Has anti-bacterial & anti-fungal activity.
 Shelf-stable.
 External, cosmetic use only (do not eat).
Beauty
Carrier Oils
Rosehip Seed Oil
 Rejuvenating for dry skin, wrinkles, scars,
stretch marks & age spots.
 Rich in essential fatty acids, vitamins A & E.
 Keep refrigerated.
 External, cosmetic use only.
Sea Buckthorn Berry Oil
 For damaged skin, wrinkles, scars, burns.
 Rich in essential fatty acids, antioxidants,
carotenes, tocopherols, phytosterols.
 Concentrated, thick, red.
 Use sparingly, diluted.
 Keep at room temperature.
 Food & cosmetic use.
Beauty
Baths
 Baths
combine relaxing effect of hot water,
therapeutic effects of salts, calming or renewing
effects of essential oils.
 Water is solvent, carrying minerals, compounds,
oils suspended in it into our skin & bloodstream in
2 to 15 minutes.
 Water relieves pull of gravity, warms body temp
(Lyme’s), increases blood flow, stimulates
metabolism, flushes wastes out skin.
 Promotes physical & mental well-being.
 Avoid overheating in pregnancy, high blood
pressure, heart medications. Consult with MD.
Beauty
Bath Ingredients
Epsom Salt:
 Not true salt. Crystallized magnesium & sulfate.
 Provides muscle relaxation, pain relief, skin
softening.
Himalayan Salt:
 Formed in Jurassic Era (250 million years ago) sea
beds, now in Pakistan.
 Rich in skin-replenishing minerals.
Dead Sea Salt:
 Less sodium, more magnesium, calcium, minerals.
 For muscle relaxation, joint pain, post-exercise
replenishment.
Colloidal Oatmeal:
 Powdered starch-protein compounds from oats.
 Protects & repairs skin, relieves itching, irritation.
Recipes
Recipes
Massage Oil
1 oz. base/carrier oil (can blend cold-pressed
almond, hazelnut, apricot, peach kernel, etc.)
12-30 drops (maximum) essential oils
5 drops Vitamin E liquid
 Pour base oils in a glass container.
 Add essential oils & vitamin E, whisk to blend.
 Carefully pour into bottle with tight fitting lid.
 Store away from light and heat.
 Makes 1 oz.
 Use: Gently massage about a teaspoon at a time
into skin.
Avoid essential oils of basil, oregano, thyme, nutmeg, clove, bay laurel, cinnamon, black pepper, or any oils that irritate your skin.
Recipes
Bath Salts
1 cup total salts (Dead Sea, Epsom salt, etc.)
1 tablespoon base/carrier oil (
40-80 drops essential oils (chamomile, sandalwood,
eucalyptus, lavender, ylang ylang, etc.)
1 cup baking soda
1 cup finely ground oatmeal
 Place the salt mixture into a glass/stainless bowl.
 Add base/carrier oil & essential oils, mix well.
 Add the dry ingredients, mix well.
 Store in a glass container with a tight-fitting lid.
 Mix again in one day to re-blend.
 Makes 3 cups.
 Use: Add 1/2-1 cup of the salts to running bath
water, stir well. Soak 10-15 minutes. Pat dry
 Caution in pregnancy, other medical conditions.
Avoid essential oils of basil, oregano, thyme, nutmeg, clove, bay laurel, cinnamon, black pepper, or any oils that irritate your skin.
Recipes
Healing Salve
3 oz. total herb-infused oils (can blend calendula,
Saint Johnswort, yarrow, &/or plantain oils)
3 teaspoons beeswax pieces
30-40 drops (maximum) essential oils (lavender, tea
tree, frankincense, chamomile, sandalwood)
15 drops Vitamin E liquid
 Pour herb-infused oils into a heatproof glass.
 Set on low heat & add wax, stir to melt.
 Remove from heat as soon as wax is melted.
 Add essential oils & vitamin E, whisk to blend.
 Carefully pour into clean jars, & let cool.
 When hardened, cap, label & store in refrigerator.
 Makes 3-4 oz.
 Use: For all topical wounds. Clean wound, apply
salve & cover with bandage as needed.
Avoid essential oils of basil, oregano, thyme, nutmeg, clove, bay laurel, cinnamon, black pepper, or any oils that irritate your skin.
Recipes
Lotion
1 oz./2 Tablespoons base lotion
12-30 drops (maximum) essential oils
5 drops Vitamin E liquid
 Measure lotion into glass or stainless dish.
 Add essential oils & vitamin E.
 Whisk or stir to blend thoroughly.
 Use funnel to transfer into lotion bottle.
 Cap & label, use within 6 months.
 Makes 1 oz.
 Use: For protecting & lubricating dry or
overworked skin.
Avoid essential oils of basil, oregano, thyme, nutmeg, clove, bay laurel, cinnamon, black pepper, or any oils that irritate your skin.
Safety
Safety
Cautions
 Buy only quality products from reputable
suppliers.
 Buy only aromatherapy-grade (organic)
essential oils.
 Do not take essential oils internally unless under
professional supervision.
 Use wintergreen, clove, anise fennel, methyl
chavicol basil essential oils in low doses.
 Thyme oregano mucous-membrane irritating.
 "Ivory Wave," "Purple Wave," Vanilla Sky," and
"Bliss" are among the many street names of a
designer street drug known as “bath salts,” not
the spa treatment.
Safety
Cautions
 Caution in pregnancy & lactation. Seek
professional advice before using any product.
 Always test product for allergy, & stop if any
signs of reaction.
 Stop product if any worsening of symptoms,
or if no improvenment in expected time-frame.
 Avoid essential oils of basil, oregano, thyme,
nutmeg, clove, bay laurel, cinnamon, black
pepper, or any oils that irritate your skin.
Hot Topics
Hot Topics
Exogenous hormones
Bio-identical hormones (pharmaceuticals)
Human hormones made in body ratios.
NOT phytoestrogens or herbal medicines.
Use plants as a scaffold in their manufacture.
Herbal starting materials DO NOT convert in
the body into these hormones.
Xenoestrogens (environmental)
External hormone-disruptors.
Chlorinated water, plastics, pesticides, home
products, cosmetics, foods, everywhere.
Exposure reduces thyroid function, increases
risk of hormone-induced issues, cancers,
insulin resistance.
Resources
Resources
Web
 Biosis
database
www.cas.org
http://stneasy.cas.org
Fee-based world-wide research on all
biological & biomedical topics.
 FDA
reporting system for tainted products:
[email protected]
 Google
Scholar
www.scholar.google.com
Scholarly literature search, many sources.
Resources
Web
 NIH
Office of Dietary Supplements
http://ods.od.nih.gov/
 Natural
Products Association
http://www.npainfo.org/
 Sciencedirect
www.science-direct.com
Over 2,000 peer-reviewed journals, over one
quarter of the world’s scientific medical &
technical information online. Free.
Resources
Books
 Drop Dead Gorgeous
Erickson K
 Earthly Bodies & Heavenly Hair
Falconi D
 Home Herbal
Ody P
 Naturally Beautiful
Yabsley C
 The Complete Illustrated Herbal
Hoffmann D
 The Herbal Medicine-Maker’s Handbook
Green J
 The Illustrated Encyclopedia of Essential Oils
Lawless J
Resources
Products
 Natura
Health Products Herbal extracts, caps
www.naturahealthproducts.com
541-488-0210
 HerbPharm
Herbal salves, oils, extracts, etc.
www.herb-pharm.com
800-348-4372
 Herbalist
& Alchemist Herbal salves, extracts,
www.herbalist-alchemist.com
800-611-8235
Resources
Products
 Mountain
Rose Herbs Bulk herbs, ess. oils, etc.
www.mountainroseherbs.com
800-879-3337
 Pacific
Botanicals Bulk herbs
www.pacificbotanicals.com
541-479-7777
Resources
Products
 Healing
Spirits Farm Beeswax
607-566-2701
www.infoblvd.net/healingspirits
 Act
By Nature Hair Dye
763-463-2454
[email protected]
 Divinitea
Bulk organic teas
www.divinitea.com
877-892-0013
Summary
Summary
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Most animals self-medicate with herbs.
20-50% American adults use.
Many plant compounds are active in humans.
Human using for millenia in acute & chronic ailments.
Intervene in symptom relief & underlying cause.
Different paradigm: patient-specific not disease specific.
Herbs are multi-taskers, used combined.
In women’s health, herbs regulate hormones & conditions affected by imbalances.
Many menopausal symptoms benefit by holistic approach.
Protocol blends targeted herbs, phytoestrogen-rich foods, specific supplements,
healthy lifestyle choices.
Select herbs to match person from among many appropriate medicinal plants.
Vitex is useful for hot flashes & other hormone-related issues.
Support optimal sleep, other symptoms improve.
Reduce exposure to xenoestrogens.
FDA regulates herbs as dietary supplements & can remove from market
Herbs very safe, negligible adverse events compared with adverse rx events.
Safety concerns mostly with contamination & fraud.
Caution in pregnancy & lactation.
Many resources available for accurate information & herbal studies.
Refer to trained practitioner.
Summary
Aging Well
 Prevention is key (move to Bergen county!).
 Maximize healthy lifestyle choices.
 Reframe dominant culture’s concept of aging,
incorporating new role models.
 Drink organic green/white tea!
 Put safest products on your skin & within.
 Care for self, within & without.
 Treat yourself to the beauty medicines.
 Enjoy healthful nourishment, sleep, movement,
intimacy, stress management.
 Pursue self-actualization, social & nature
connection, meaningful life.
 Maintain resilience, humor, love, gratitude,
spiritual connection.
 Leave the world better for your being in it.
 Change what you can & release the rest.
Weathering
Literally thin-skinned, I suppose, my face
catches the wind off the snow-line and flushes
with a flush that will never wholly settle. Well:
that was a metropolitan vanity,
wanting to look young for ever, to pass.
I was never a pre-Raphaelite beauty
nor anything but pretty enough to satisfy
men who need to be seen with passable women.
But now that I am in love with a place
which doesn’t care how I look, or if I’m happy,
happy is how I look, and that’s all.
My hair will grow grey in any case,
my nails chip and flake, my waist thicken,
and the years work all their usual changes.
If my face is to be weather-beaten as well
that’s little enough lost, a fair bargain
for a year among the lakes and fells, when simply
to look out of my window at the high pass
makes me indifferent to mirrors and to what
my soul may wear over its new complexion. –Fleur Adcock
The Boomers will eventually have to accept
that it is not possible to stay forever young or to stop aging.
But it is possible, by committing to show up for others
in community after community,
to earn a measure of immortality.
Eric Liu
There is a fountain of youth:
it is your mind, your talents,
the creativity you bring to your life
and the lives of people you love.
When you learn to tap this source,
you will truly have defeated age.
Sophia Loren
Many Thanks!!