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field fashion The Great Indian Fashionama Marathi Kalasrushtri Shraddha Deshmukh & Ankita Wadekar tell us about Marathi Theatre and its evolution through the years. They also talk about the entertainment that it offers to its defined set of audiences Renowned actors, directors, writers and people who are the pulse of the Marathi Film, Television and Theatre Industry won’t be available to the masses from 21st Dec 2011 to 23rd Dec 2011. They all are diverting towards Bandra. These esteemed celebrities have taken out their precious time from their busy schedules to showcase their love towards the Marathi Boli and Marathi Kalasrushti. Marathi Drama and theatre is alive from the Middle of 19th century and it is performed even now. Marathi theatre rose in full swing in Maharashtra with the inception of dramas by Vishnudas Bhave who tried to give a new dimension to the Indian theatre. The first play in Marathi was "Sita Swayamvar". It was after 1843 that the Marathi theatre began to progress. Vishnudas Bhave was extremely gifted scholar – play writer, director and able organiser. In 1868 Vinayak Kirti entered the Marathi Theater with his historical drama Madhavrao Peshwa. The plays by Vishnudas Bhave and later playwrights were THEATRE Gujarati theatre has made its presence stronger over the years. From 1880's to 2011 Gujarati theatre is growing and reaching to a large number of audiences which is increasing every year. Talking about today's scenario people like Kaustubh Trivedi, Sanjay Goradia, Kamlesh Mota, Rajendra Butala, Vipul Mehta, Ami Trivedi and many more have kept the Gujarati stage alive. Even though Gujarati cinema has seen its downfall, Guajarati Theatre has made its audience proud over and over again. As 2011 comes to an end it reminds me of the shows that I have seen in the last two years and still fresh in my mind. “Gravthi kaho ame Gujarati che” although is a play all about singing the pride of Gujarat and Gujarati's, the only two things which keep me looking back in this play are the excellent dialogues which gave me goose bumps and brilliant performance by Smriti Irani and Darshan Jariwala. “102 Not Out” has an amazing plot. It talks about how a 102 year Old Man teaches his 70 year old son to live his life to the fullest. “Kanji Viruddh Kanji”, the play in which an atheist businessman (antique dealer) takes on the might of God and sues him for damaging his shop during a storm., ran for 253 shows before actor Sachin Khedekar decided to step down from the lead role., 4 distinguished by excessive prominence to songs and music but Vinayak Kirti's Madhavrao Peshwa had absolutely no songs or musical recitals; instead the whole drama was acted with dialogues which were totally in prose. Here the Marathi drama branches off in two directions - Prose Plays and Verse Plays. “Maratha tetuka melvava maharashtra dharam vadhvava” this was the core vision of initiating Marathi natak. Entertainment was the outer face of the theatre. This reflects through choices of the bolder, challenging, ahead of time subjects that natak inculcate with sensitivity. This is a way of feeding the new progressive thoughts in very subtle manner. Marathi theatre influences audience to respect the values while spreading the wing to fly high in the sky to achieve their dreams. With significant growth in Marathi movies, people feel that theatre will lose its charm to movies. If you look deeper you will find that theatre audience is not ready to leave theatre behind. Theatre still has a strong hold over its audience. It’s all because of the contribution of the directors, play writers, actors. They all sacrificed their life to the stage. But as we all know ‘tali ek hath se nahi bajti.’ Last year we pledged to reintroduce the Marathi theatre to a newer audience. We organised an Intercollegiate theatre competition called “Prayog”. The main goal of all this exercise was to bring in the youth, the audience to appreciate theatre more. Prayog will carry forward with this year’s theme and represent contemporary Maharashtra. Vaibhav Mangale, Anand Ingale, Pravin Tarde Aruna Joglekar and many more are taking an initiative to be a part of our exuberant event. Sanah Seth does a detailed analysis of how fashion in Bollywood has evolved through the years, also how period films prioritize costumes. The history of the changing trends of fashion in the Bollywood Hindi cinema date back almost to the decades of the 50s till the current phase of the year 2010. And it was in the earlier time zone of time spanning the last four decades of the last millennium that popular star pairs like Dilip Kumar–Madhubala, Rajendra Kumar–Mala Sinha, Raaj Kumar–Meena Kumari, Sunil Dutt–Sadhana, and above all Raj Kapoor–Nargis had played a key role in evolving a fashion conscious trendy style of their own, which in the long-run had literally turned out to be a trendsetter of that particular era. The establishment of the Indian cinema also proved to be the strongest influence on the fashion in the decade. Due to the western influence, the use of angarkhas, choghas and jamas diminished considerably by this time, although the ceremonial pagri,safa and topi were widespread as ever. They had been replaced by the chapkan, achkan and sherwani, which are still standard items of formal dress for Indian men today. The '60s period was one of the most shock-filled decades of the century saw sweeping fashion and lifestyle changes that reflected the mercurial passions of the times. Tight kurtas and churidars and high coiffeurs competed with the mini-skirts abroad. One of the most revisited and retro periods in the fashion, The 'Dum Maroo Dum' phase, the '70s is often called the 'me decade'. It saw the beginning of 'anything goes' culture with the result that fashion became another form of sel Catch live action at Metamorphosis 2011: Prayog on 21st December, 9.30 onwards. Nimit Vora explores the world of Gujarati Theatre and gives you a sneak peek into some of the finest Gujarati Plays of all times. marvelous performance by Sachin Khedekar and his flawless Gujarati, brilliant script and none the less very strong recall value. This lead role then was essayed by Tiku Talsania. “Dear Father”- You can imagine the magic on stage when Paresh Rawal returns back on it after 16 long years that too in a double role. The instant switch over between the roles leaves the audience amazed. Swaroop Sampat's script is powerful enough to keep the audience glued to their seats and even come back again. “Zindagi nu X Factor” - Ami Trivedi plays an actress who is loved a lot by the audience but is disliked by her own son. Very heart drenching drama leaves you in a very emotional and philosophical mood. “Zero Bani Gayo Hero” – The story of a deaf and dumb boy who unknowingly helps police to arrest a terrorist and saves the city from a blast. Great performances by Sanat Vyas , music and the fast changing sets lend the required mood to the play, which keeps the audiences glued to their seats. The monologue on cross-border terrorism, the terrorist targeting events like Visarjan and Dussehra is almost a slice of life for the audience. 23 years. Padma Rani is as wonderful as before. The story is very touching and humorous at the same time. A must watch drama. In Mumbai, thetares like Bhaidas Jhaveriben Auditorium, Dinnanath Mangeshkar auditorium, Bharati Vidya Bhavan, Tejpal Bharati Vidya Bhavan, Jhaverben Auditorium have been the “Karmabhoomi” of Gujarati plays since decades, and fortunately still continue to be. Go ahead and experience the magic of Gujarati Theatre, but if you think language is a barrier, then don't worry, expressions have no language. “Baa Retire Thai Che” A super hit show which returned to stage again after Friday | December 2011 5 f-expression and bold colours with flower prints were adapted in tunics with shirts and bell-bottoms. As the drug culture became a mass phenomenon, psychedelic colours became garish, shoes got taller and hazardous and silhouettes were extreme and the dressing of the '50s was definitely out. To begin with the analysis of this trendy obsession we go back to the era of Dilip Kumar, Madhubala, who ironically were well-known more for their respective images of a tragedy king and Venus of beauty rather than their wardrobe or their hairstyles. In fact, it was Madhubala's fetching, winsome, and infectious smile that had a trendsetting impact of its own. Later on, it was Rajendra Kumar who had given a boost to executive looks and styles of dressing down while his co-star Mala Sinha had seemed more than happier by slipping in and out of her tight churidaars, kurtas and, of course, hallmarked by her then inventive 'Chidiyon Ka Ghosla' (Bird's Nest) type of wriggly wigs. Mughal-e-Azam, which is one of the most popular costumes dramas in Indian cinema, still inspires the directors when they are making dramas or period films. The film took almost 15 years to be made with one of the largest budgets in Indian cinema. Tailors were brought from Delhi to stitch the costumes, Hyderabad goldsmiths made the jewellery, Kolhapur craftsmen the crowns, Rajasthani ironsmiths fabricated the shields, swords, spears, dagger and armor, specialists from Surat-Khambayat were employed for the exquisite zardosi embroidery on the costumes while the elaborate footwear was ordered from Agra. Much earlier, it was Raj Kapoor and Nargis, Sunil Dutt and Sadhana who had indeed made a conscious effort to retain their originality. Let not forget the trademarked white sarees or the long flowing umbrella styled gowns of Nargis, Sunil Dutt's cowboy hats and designer goggles in tandem with the long strands of hairs covering his entire forehead and mane (which was earlier noticeable even in his son Sunjay Dutt) and last but not the least Sadhana's especially scissored hair in steps cut covering just the front portion of her forehead. To continue a further enterprising and alluring twist in the fashion trend which occurred in the 60s phase itself was when the actresses of that era had shed their inhibitions and dared to wear swimming costumes on the celluloid silver screen. the first ones to kick off this dare to bare trend was none other than Nutan and Tanuja. Yes, indeed they were the first o n e s t o evolve the s t yl e o f o n e piece designer style of a swimming costume. Saira Banu and Sharmila Tagore had gone a step ahead in the Eastman colour era and wore a shiny onep i e c e swimmi n g costu me for a film called A n Evening In Paris and then f i n a l l y graduating to a two-piece polka dotted bikini for a film called Aamne Samne. To proceed further, the last millennium had also seen the then contemporary stars like Amitabh Bachchan, Vinod Khanna, Rishi Kapoor, Mithun Chakraborty at al glamorizing the fashion trends further with their frilly shirts and flannel trousers aptly rounded off with platform heeled foot wears. While their female counterparts, actresses like Rekha and Sridevi attired most of the times in their bell bottoms and puffed sleeved tops, Jaya Prada in her typical Bhartiya Nari get up of starched white cotton and sometimes chiffon and silk sarees, had indeed made a stylish fashion statement of their own. Each costume speaks of the painstaking research, flawless workmanship and admirable physical, mental and emotional labour that went into its creation. For the sophisticated and suave foreignreturned Devdas in the initial reels of the film, Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla actually sourced vintage suits, cravats, handkerchiefs and shoes from old clothing stores in London. For Paro, designer Neeta Lulla and Bhansali came to the city and brought down around 600 sarees. At her home, Madhuri was made to wear fine mulmul and cotton skirts decked with gota work and ghungroos. The movie In Once Upon A Time in Mumbai ,is a throwback to the 70s; the feel, look, costumes and the setting is of a bygone era, including the music. One can see Prachi Desai donning a Dimple Kapadia's outfit straight from the 70s biggest hit, Bobby. Leading actresses like Aishwarya Rai and Rani Mukherjee are still hung up on their mania for favoring and possessing their favorite dress designers like Neeta Lulla and Manish Malhotra respectively. Either of whom ended up creating outfits for them as per the demands of their on-screen characters and the off-screen parties or events that they deem fit to grace. But these creatively designed outfits normally turn out to be like worn today and discarded tomorrow. For i.e. the Cannes festival attire created for Aishwarya Rai or the ultra creative different dresses created and perhaps painstakingly stitched for the Queen Bee to complement her outstanding role in Sanjay Leela Bhanshali's film Black which hardly proves to be a trend setting or stylish fashion statement. The late Feroz Khan will always be remembered for his flamboyant style, with cowboyish swagger and cigar toting persona which revolutionized the style quotient of the otherwise conventional Filmi hero, he is known as the Clint Eastwood of the East and a style icon in the industry. So in summation, the history of the fashion scenario will remain incomplete. Fashion and politics and very alike. The originals of both concepts are churned and remixed to appear fresh and different. Fashion spins on its own axis. Generations later, trunk old vintage garments become couture and high street fashions become collectables. The evolution of fashion is continuous and can never terminate. The late Feroz Khan will always be remembered for his flamboyant style, with cowboyish swagger and cigar toting persona which revolutionized the style quotient of the otherwise conventional Filmi hero, he is known as the Clint Eastwood of the East and a style icon in the industry. A special mention out here must be made of Jaggu Dada (Jackie Shroff) who from the beginning of his career till this date has never worn any shred of clothing except that designed by his personal friend cum designer Anna Singh. No wonder that none of these abovementioned stars too have ever been able to create a fashionable style statement of their own unlike some of the yesteryears starry actors or actresses. So in summation, the history of the fashion scenario will remain incomplete. Fashion and politics and very alike. The originals of both concepts are churned and remixed to appear fresh and different. Fashion spins on its own axis. Generations later, trunk old vintage garments become couture and high street fashions become collectables. The evolution of fashion is continuous and can never terminate. Friday | December 2011