Download GROWING CAMELLIAS – some good advice

 GROWING CAMELLIAS – some good advice
From China, through Japan, Europe and America, Camellias have reached Australia to become one of our most
popular flowering shrubs. In and around Brisbane the two varieties that grow particularly well are Camellia japonica
and Camellia sasanqua.
Camellia japonica is generally bushy and has broad and glossy evergreen foliage. Once established, it flowers
profusely over the cooler winter months in all shades of pink, red and white creating endless combinations of colour
and form from singles, semi-doubles to formal doubles. Camellia japonica prefers a semi-shaded position and is an
excellent choice in a protected garden situation.
Camellia sasanqua can be recognised by its smaller, sharper foliage and more vigorous growth. It too is evergreen,
but is more sun hardy. The flowering period begins in autumn and continues through until early winter. Most
sasanquas are of single to semi-double form, with rich yellow stamens, in a range of colours similar to the
japonicas. Although sasanqua varieties are sun hardy, they can also tolerate shade, making them extremely
versatile. Whether planted as specimens or grouped, they present magnificent shows of colour.
Most camellias are considered to be large shrubs, growing over time from between 2 to 4 metres high but smaller
growing sasanqua varieties are available making them very suitable for low hedges in full sun or part sun positions,
or for growing in containers.
All Camellias love what is referred to as a well-composted soil – preferably one that retains enough moisture for
shallow and deeper roots, but one that drains away excess water freely. The addition of compost, pre-wetted peat
moss, blood and bone, cow manure, leaf mulch and other organic matter not only helps to improve drainage but
also will help to acidify the soil.
All Camellias hate alkaline soil or constantly wet feet. All camellias require a slightly acidic soil and one that freely
drains excess moisture away. Excess water drowns the fibrous root system of the Camellia by preventing aeration
around the roots, causing root rot. If you are at all concerned about achieving perfect drainage in your garden,
consider planting Camellias in conditioned soil that is raised in mounds or beds above the surrounding soil level.
When the soil is alkaline or has been dosed with lime, it will actually block iron and other essential nutrients from
being used by Camellias and the plants become weakened. Nutrient uptake can be improved by adjusting the soil
pH between 5.5 and 6.5. Seek advice from Garden Strategies if you are unsure about the pH level of your soil and
how to adjust it.
When planting your camellias, make the planting hole twice the size of the root-ball in the prepared soil.
Carefully remove the plant from its pot and place in the hole keeping the top of the root-ball level with the top of
the bed.
Camellias grow well in containers, especially when you use a potting mix that is especially formulated for Camellias
and Azaleas. This will ensure the pH level and the range of nutrients are appropriate.
Whether you are growing them in pots or in your garden, all Camellias benefit from mulch on top of the potting mix
or soil. Mulch improves water retention and protects the soil and surface roots from harsh conditions like hot sun
and driving rain. Straw mulches eventually break down to enhance the soil, but can be topped up when required.
Feed regularly from September to February using a fertiliser specifically formulated for azaleas and camellias, to
ensure healthy growth and abundant bloom. Apply fertiliser at the rate recommended on the packet. Do not
continue fertilising after February; to do so will only encourage flower buds to drop.
Camellias grown in containers require slow-release fertiliser suitable for Azaleas and Camellias and additional
liquid feeding to ensure excellent growth and flowering.
Diagnostics
Hard Scale can cause yellow blotches on the leaves and even leaf-fall. These can be controlled using Natrasoap or
an oil-based spray like White Oil or Pest Oil.
Oedema is a term used for small corky brown or grey scabby areas that may occur on only a few leaves. The
condition is usually brought about by low transpiration rates in humid weather and control, other than restriction of
water during humid cloudy weather, is not usually necessary.
Mites feeding on the underside of leaves may cause discolouration with badly infected leaves taking on a bronze
colour and dusty dull appearance. Although affected foliage will not recover, care should be taken to protect new
growth. Thorough, regular wetting on both sides of the foliage with Natrasoap or Neem Oil should reduce numbers
sufficiently, but any persistent infestations may require treatment with a systemic miticide.
Root rot shows up first in the foliage. It loses its glossy sheen, becoming dull and droopy. The leaf texture becomes
soft and the plant tends to set excess undersized flower buds, generally in clusters. Under the ground, the normally
healthy, white fibrous roots start to turn brown and quickly die back from the tips. To control, drainage needs to be
improved, watering reduced and the soil drenched with Fongarid or use Yates Anti Rot over the foliage.
Camellia season usually begins in April, with sasanquas being the first to flower, followed by japonicas. Although
Camellias are available for planting all year, the flowers can best be viewed at your nursery during the cooler
months, including early spring.
Happy Gardening
Gaye