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The allure of the amaryllis With their glorious colours and striking forms, these exuberant flowers are well worth cultivating for the uplifting presence they provide at the darkest time of the year words by sarah raven photographs by jonathan buckley GARDENING OPPOSITE Amaryllis ‘Misty’ has beautiful white-green flowers with striking crimson veining THIS PAGE The velvety deep red flower head of Amaryllis ‘Liberty’ countryliving.co.uk ntil a few years ago, amaryllis were only just on my radar. I may have bought some cut stems for a Christmas arrangement or been given the odd bulb, but once they had stopped flowering, not knowing what to do with them, I rather guiltily threw them away. In the past few years, however, they’ve risen to the top of my ‘favourite flowers for winter and early spring’ list. Amaryllis – or hippeastrum, as they are officially known – provide an incredible burst of colour and interest at a time of year when both are thin on the ground, with more and more magnificent varieties available – from the spidery, fine green-petalled ‘Emerald’ to the luscious, dark-red ‘Royal Velvet’ through to the vibrant and zesty ‘Lemon and Lime’. I also love ‘Green Goddess’, which isn’t really green at all, except in its long, elegant throat, and more JANUARY 2015 87 GARDENING closely resembles the trumpet lily, Lilium regale, than a conventional amaryllis. I’ve become a fan of the green and crimson striped A. papilio and then there are scented varieties, such as ‘Santiago’, and the miniature sonatinis, which are said to be hardy. As well as branching out from the standard white or red, I’ve started planting more than one in a pot to create an even more dramatic effect. Dead-head the flowers and they will bloom solidly for three months, then move to a greenhouse, light porch or shed and continue to water until late summer. Dry them out totally to force them into dormancy, before planting them up and watering again to bring back into growth in late autumn (see opposite). Each year the bulb grows half an inch or so and produces at least one extra flower spike and more blooms on top of every stem. I now have some bulbs I’ve grown for four or five years, which are so big I can hardly hold them in THIS PAGE Striking striped petals of A. ‘Giraffe’ OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A. ‘Mont Blanc’; the correct way to plant an amaryllis bulb; A. ‘Green Magic’; A. ‘Flamenco Queen’; A. ‘Chico’; the strappy leaves appear first 88 JANUARY 2015 shop.countryliving.co.uk HOW TO GROW AMARYLLIS Planting The bulb should be positioned with the top third above the soil to allow water to drain away and reduce the likelihood of rot. Amaryllis prefer rich but exceptionally well-drained soil – ideally a mix of one part well-rotted manure, one part horticultural grit or sand and two parts leaf mould. Good compost mixed with one third grit is also fine, as is sterilised houseplant compost. Use a pot just 5-6cm wider than the diameter of the bulb, with a crock in the bottom for extra drainage. Plant firmly, cramming the soil around the bulb, otherwise they easily topple over once the flower is fully formed. Feeding After the plant begins to grow, add a complete slow-release fertiliser to the potting medium, or use a liquid fertiliser twice a month when in flower. Watering Keep the potting medium moist but not wet. Always water from the top, never from the bottom, using tepid tap water and once it has drained through into the saucer, tip it away. Don’t over-water. Site Keep in a bright, warm, sunny place, ideally at about 20°C, away from draughts. A shelf above a radiator – but not on full heat – is ideal. countryliving.co.uk Care Once the plant is in flower, continue watering. Keep it out of direct sunlight, in a spot that is slightly cooler (15-20°C) but as light as possible to promote a longer flower life. Each individual bloom should last two or even three weeks before it turns brown. As each one fades, cut it off at the top of the stalk, then, when the whole stalk is over and begins to sag, cut it off just above the bulb nose. After flowering, feed and water until the leaves begin to yellow in late summer/early autumn. Cut them back to about 6cm from the top of the bulb and let the compost dry completely. Keep the bulb cool (5-10°C), and dark to give it a dormant period for at least eight weeks (or up to 16) before you encourage it to come into leaf and bloom again. To bring into flower, start watering eight to ten weeks before you would like them to bloom. Propagating Bulbs older than two years will produce offset bulblets, which may be left attached when re-potting to create an amazing show. However, it’s best to remove them carefully just before you replant and put them into individual pots. It will take three years before they produce their first flower. JANUARY 2015 89 GARDENING one hand, and they flower for almost twice as long as the more recently bought ones. I also try to bring on the blooms in succession: all you need to do is replant them and start watering from late autumn, through the winter and into the middle of spring, one after another, every couple of weeks, to enjoy the exuberant charms of amaryllis from midwinter right up until early summer. My favourites this season have been a gorgeous bowl of three glamorous, deep-red ‘Royal Velvet’ bulbs and a line of ‘Emerald’, supported on some woven silver birch entwined with fairy lights, which bring a bit of welcome sparkle to grey January days. I also love a vase of cut amaryllis for a new year party and like to display these in a couple of different ways. For a table centrepiece, the arrangement should be generous but short so that everyone can talk easily without the flowers blocking the view: to achieve this effect, I cut the stems down and thread five or seven through a wooden grid attached with Florist’s Tac (waterproof Blu tack) to a shallow fruit bowl. I position the amaryllis first and then add deciduous holly (Ilex verticillata) in red or orange. For impact, I enjoy a few of the deepest red blooms on stems left full length (to prevent them from bending, insert a slender cane into the hollow stem). Arrange them in a tall vase, then add some branches of silver birch or hazel in between – do it in this order to avoid damaging the soft stems as you push them between the tough twigs. Let the display take pride of place on a table or sideboard – a beautiful reminder of the floral power of amaryllis. THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE A vintage crate sets off pale A. ‘Green Goddess’; berried branches bring cheery contrast to a stylish centrepiece; A. ‘Emerald’ rises above a frame of fairylightdecked twigs; tall A. ‘Royal Velvet’ strikes a festive note; buds of A. ‘Clown’ about to open OPPOSITE Dramatic A. papilio Amaryllis can be arranged in a variety of ways to create eye-catching displays shop.countryliving.co.uk Order a special Sarah Raven amaryllis gift set for just £15 (usually £19.95)*. The set includes an amaryllis bulb presented in a ribbon-tied hessian bag, with a zinc pot and full instructions. Call 0845 092 0283 or visit sarahraven.com and quote the offer code CLAMARY. *AMARYLLIS VARIETIES AVAILABLE AS A GIFT SET: ‘EMERALD’, ‘GREEN GODDESS’, ‘HERCULES’, ‘LEMON AND LIME’ OR ‘ROYAL VELVET’. £4.95 P&P PAYABLE ON ALL ORDERS CL READER OFFER