Download Country Living Jan 2015

The allure
of the
amaryllis
With their glorious colours and striking forms, these
exuberant flowers are well worth cultivating for the uplifting
presence they provide at the darkest time of the year
words by sarah raven
photographs by jonathan buckley
GARDENING
OPPOSITE Amaryllis
‘Misty’ has beautiful
white-green flowers
with striking crimson
veining THIS PAGE
The velvety deep
red flower head of
Amaryllis ‘Liberty’
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ntil a few years ago, amaryllis
were only just on my radar. I may
have bought some cut stems
for a Christmas arrangement
or been given the odd bulb, but
once they had stopped flowering, not knowing what
to do with them, I rather guiltily threw them away.
In the past few years, however, they’ve risen to the
top of my ‘favourite flowers for winter and early spring’
list. Amaryllis – or hippeastrum, as they are officially
known – provide an incredible burst of colour and
interest at a time of year when both are thin on the
ground, with more and more magnificent varieties
available – from the spidery, fine green-petalled
‘Emerald’ to the luscious, dark-red ‘Royal Velvet’
through to the vibrant and zesty ‘Lemon and Lime’.
I also love ‘Green Goddess’, which isn’t really green
at all, except in its long, elegant throat, and more
JANUARY 2015
87
GARDENING
closely resembles the trumpet lily, Lilium regale,
than a conventional amaryllis. I’ve become a fan of
the green and crimson striped A. papilio and then
there are scented varieties, such as ‘Santiago’, and
the miniature sonatinis, which are said to be hardy.
As well as branching out from the standard white
or red, I’ve started planting more than one in a pot to
create an even more dramatic effect. Dead-head the
flowers and they will bloom solidly for three months,
then move to a greenhouse, light porch or shed and
continue to water until late summer. Dry them out
totally to force them into dormancy, before planting
them up and watering again to bring back into growth
in late autumn (see opposite). Each year the bulb grows
half an inch or so and produces at least one extra
flower spike and more blooms on top of every stem.
I now have some bulbs I’ve grown for four or five
years, which are so big I can hardly hold them in
THIS PAGE Striking
striped petals of
A. ‘Giraffe’ OPPOSITE,
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT A. ‘Mont
Blanc’; the correct way
to plant an amaryllis
bulb; A. ‘Green Magic’;
A. ‘Flamenco Queen’;
A. ‘Chico’; the strappy
leaves appear first
88
JANUARY 2015
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HOW TO GROW AMARYLLIS
Planting The bulb should be
positioned with the top third
above the soil to allow water
to drain away and reduce the
likelihood of rot. Amaryllis
prefer rich but exceptionally
well-drained soil – ideally a
mix of one part well-rotted
manure, one part horticultural
grit or sand and two parts
leaf mould. Good compost
mixed with one third grit
is also fine, as is sterilised
houseplant compost. Use
a pot just 5-6cm wider than
the diameter of the bulb,
with a crock in the bottom
for extra drainage. Plant
firmly, cramming the soil
around the bulb, otherwise
they easily topple over once
the flower is fully formed.
Feeding After the plant begins
to grow, add a complete
slow-release fertiliser to the
potting medium, or use
a liquid fertiliser twice a
month when in flower.
Watering Keep the potting
medium moist but not wet.
Always water from the top,
never from the bottom,
using tepid tap water and
once it has drained through
into the saucer, tip it away.
Don’t over-water.
Site Keep in a bright, warm,
sunny place, ideally at about
20°C, away from draughts.
A shelf above a radiator – but
not on full heat – is ideal.
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Care Once the plant is in
flower, continue watering.
Keep it out of direct sunlight,
in a spot that is slightly cooler
(15-20°C) but as light as
possible to promote a longer
flower life. Each individual
bloom should last two or even
three weeks before it turns
brown. As each one fades,
cut it off at the top of the stalk,
then, when the whole stalk is
over and begins to sag, cut it
off just above the bulb nose.
After flowering, feed and
water until the leaves begin
to yellow in late summer/early
autumn. Cut them back to
about 6cm from the top of the
bulb and let the compost dry
completely. Keep the bulb
cool (5-10°C), and dark to
give it a dormant period for
at least eight weeks (or up
to 16) before you encourage
it to come into leaf and bloom
again. To bring into flower,
start watering eight to ten
weeks before you would
like them to bloom.
Propagating Bulbs older
than two years will produce
offset bulblets, which may be
left attached when re-potting
to create an amazing show.
However, it’s best to remove
them carefully just before
you replant and put them
into individual pots. It will
take three years before they
produce their first flower.
JANUARY 2015
89
GARDENING
one hand, and they flower for almost twice as long
as the more recently bought ones. I also try to bring
on the blooms in succession: all you need to do is
replant them and start watering from late autumn,
through the winter and into the middle of spring,
one after another, every couple of weeks, to enjoy
the exuberant charms of amaryllis from midwinter
right up until early summer.
My favourites this season have been a gorgeous
bowl of three glamorous, deep-red ‘Royal Velvet’
bulbs and a line of ‘Emerald’, supported on some
woven silver birch entwined with fairy lights, which
bring a bit of welcome sparkle to grey January days.
I also love a vase of cut amaryllis for a new year
party and like to display these in a couple of different
ways. For a table centrepiece, the arrangement
should be generous but short so that everyone can
talk easily without the flowers blocking the view: to
achieve this effect, I cut the stems down and thread
five or seven through a wooden grid attached with
Florist’s Tac (waterproof Blu tack) to a shallow fruit
bowl. I position the amaryllis first and then add
deciduous holly (Ilex verticillata) in red or orange.
For impact, I enjoy a few of the deepest red blooms on
stems left full length (to prevent them from bending,
insert a slender cane into the hollow stem). Arrange
them in a tall vase, then add some branches of
silver birch or hazel in between – do it in this order
to avoid damaging the soft stems as you push them
between the tough twigs. Let the display take pride
of place on a table or sideboard – a beautiful
reminder of the floral power of amaryllis.
THIS PAGE,
CLOCKWISE FROM
ABOVE A vintage
crate sets off pale
A. ‘Green Goddess’;
berried branches bring
cheery contrast to a
stylish centrepiece;
A. ‘Emerald’ rises above
a frame of fairylightdecked twigs; tall
A. ‘Royal Velvet’ strikes
a festive note; buds
of A. ‘Clown’ about
to open OPPOSITE
Dramatic A. papilio
Amaryllis can be arranged in a variety
of ways to create eye-catching displays
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Order a special Sarah Raven
amaryllis gift set for just £15
(usually £19.95)*. The set includes
an amaryllis bulb presented in
a ribbon-tied hessian bag, with a
zinc pot and full instructions.
Call 0845 092 0283 or visit
sarahraven.com and quote
the offer code CLAMARY.
*AMARYLLIS VARIETIES AVAILABLE AS A GIFT SET: ‘EMERALD’, ‘GREEN GODDESS’, ‘HERCULES’,
‘LEMON AND LIME’ OR ‘ROYAL VELVET’. £4.95 P&P PAYABLE ON ALL ORDERS
CL READER
OFFER