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Transcript
Don’t Let
Winter
Stop You
from
Gardening
bring the green indoors
BY
DEREK THOMAS
For
most of this winter, we
have enjoyed the benefits of El Nino, global warming, a
seasonably warm winter - or perhaps
all of the above. Fact is there were
flowering annuals on many of Washington’s doorsteps through December,
and I have several tropicals that lasted
in a protected area through the first
weeks of the New Year.
During the last few weeks our mild
weather pattern has quickly changed.
The recent blows of winter have
been unusually harsh. Not because it
has been historically cold, but due
primarily to the fact that it has been
suddenly cold.
Our outdoor gardening has quickly been put off till early March. If this
rapid change has left you feeling empty
58 ★ DC NORTH | February 2007
in your gardening frolics, why not use
this time to spruce up or add to your
houseplant collection? Indoor plants
bring joy to many gardeners when outside temperatures prohibit them from
working in their garden sanctuaries.
During February there are many
tasks that can keep you busy with your
indoor gardens and help soften the
blow of old man winter.
Pruning
Most plants during winter have
slowed or stopped growing due to
shorter days. In February the days get
noticeably longer to you and your photosynthesizing friends, (photosynthesis
is the process that plants use to make
food). Therefore pruning any unwanted
stray limbs in February will be perfectly
timed for the new explosion of growth
that will start soon.
Re-potting
Container-grown indoor plants will
benefit from repotting every two to three
years. The proper size to pot up to is
about two to four inches larger than the
container the plant is in currently. Resist
the temptation to plant in a container that
is bigger, since soils can sour, and roots
will not grow into the soured soil.
This is a good time to remove about
thirty percent of the existing soil and
any white buildup on top of the root
mass - this white substance is salt residue from commercial fertilizers. When
placing your transplant in the new container, make sure that the soil line is
maintained, and do not plant the plant
deeper than it sat in its old container.
Dividing
When repotting, if the plant is
multi-stemmed, it may be a candidate
for division. Dividing your houseplants
is a great way to get more plants for you
and your friends. Some plants can be
divided by hand, and others may need
to be divided with pruners or a sharp
knife. What you have to make sure
of when dividing a plant is that each
new plant has enough root mass to be
self supporting.
Some plants will let you know when
it is time to divide because portions of
the otherwise healthy plant will start to
show signs of yellowing leaves. When a
multi-stemmed plant starts to rise out
of the pot, it is usually a good indication
that it is time to divide. Keep in mind
the new plants will need a new pot that
is the same size or slightly smaller to
prevent the souring of soil and rotting
of the roots. When dividing a plant,
place it in a terracotta pot; this will
help with the air circulation while the
division grows new roots and becomes
self supporting.
Cleaning
Houseplants should be cleaned
regularly. Using a clean, damp cloth
with a little dish soap will do the job.
Clean a second time with plain water
to make sure that the soap residue is
removed. If there is a large buildup of
dust, put the entire plant in the shower,
and give it a lukewarm shower before
cleaning the leaves.
Refrain from using plant polishing products since they create an
unhealthy residue that can block the
absorption of light. Plants with fuzzy
or furry leaves should not be washed.
You can use a pipe cleaner or a can
of forced air to remove the dust from
the leaves. There is a great benefit to
keeping the leaves clean since a clean,
dust-free leaf can photosynthesize
better than a dirty one.
Adding a plant to the collection
Master Gardener Derek Thomas is
principal landscape designer at Thomas
Landscapes and Maintenance. He can
be reached at 301-642-5182 or www.
thomaslandscapes.com. ■
Aechmea fasciata
by Derek Thomas
This is one plant from the dozens of plant groups of bromeliads
that are available for indoor cultivation. The common name is “vase”
or “urn” plant due to the shape of the mature plant. As this plant
grows, the silvery scales that cover the strap shed, leaving green
bands on the lilac gray leaves. The pink flower is really a bract that
lasts for three to four months. The actual flowers are purplish blue
and open inside the cuts and layers of the pink bract.
Plant Profile
Whether this is your first attempt
at indoor plants or you are a seasoned
pro, it’s fun to add a new plant to your
collection. The following are easy
care, beautiful additions to any indoor
plantscape.
Ficus lyrata, Fiddle leaf fig. This
is a must-have if you are looking for
a large tree-form plant to fill the bay
window area in the front of your
home. This plant has large, dramatic
violin-shaped leaves. Mature leaves
can reach 10 inches by 15 inches large,
with beautiful veined and puckered
textures. Fiddle leaf figs are very easy to
grow. Give them bright, indirect sunlight. Provide with an organic rich potting medium. Let the plant dry slightly
between watering - over watering will
cause leaf drop and could lead to root
rot. Fertilize in spring through fall
with a complete indoor plant fertilizer.
Watch for scale and spider mites.
Dracaena marginata. Dracaenas
are tough spike-leaved plants with
many different varieties. The D. marginata is a beautiful houseplant that
can reach a height of ten feet indoors.
The stems are slender gray and will
bend as they grow. The top portion
of the plant is where the leaves will
be located in crown-like masses.
The leaves are glossy green, edged in
purple. Give the plant bright, indirect
light, typical indoor temperatures, and
moist well-drained soil, and watch this
plant reach for the ceilings.
Dracaena massangeana, Corn
plant. This is a widely used commercial plant that has gained in popularity due largely to its ease of care
and minimal light requirements. Care
is the same as a D. marginata (above).
Be especially careful of over watering. Many times this plant comes in a
large, caned, multi-stemmed tree form
that adds prominence and elegance
to the high ceilings of Washington’s
town homes.
Schefflera, Umbrella tree. This
wide spreading, quick growing tree is
prefect for the new loft-style habitats
that have become the rage in Washington. This plant will easily reach 10 to
12 feet and deserves a prominent spot
to spread out. Bright light and moderate moisture with regular fertilization
will help this specimen grow into even
the largest of spaces quite rapidly. If
possible, move to a sheltered outdoor
space during the warm months. If and
when this plant gets too large, cutting
it down will cause it to become multistemmed at the point where it is cut.
Prune in late winter for best results.
Watch for scale and spider mites.
Crassula ovata, Jade plant. This
succulent will slowly grow into a fourto five-foot tree outdoors in warmer
climates. Indoors, give this plant bright
light (the brighter the better), and a
well-drained potting mix that is rich
in sand for increased drainage. Fertilize two or three time a year, and water
once the medium has dried. Plant in a
heavy container, or add stones to the
pot when repotting. Jade plants can
become very top heavy as they mature
and will topple over if planted in a
lightweight container.
These are just a few of the plants
that are wonderful candidates for the
indoor garden. Having several of them
in the home will add life and joy to the
starkest, coldest of winters. Enjoy.
In its native lands, the center of the “vase” catches rainwater that
is loaded with the nutrients the plant needs. In indoor cultivation,
keep water in the vase and your bromeliad will be happy. Withhold
fertilizer for several months in the winter, and provide it with very
bright light indoors to bring a young plant into bloom. The parent
will enjoy a shaded spot in the garden during the summer months.
Shortly after blooming the suckers (young plants) will break the soil
and begin to grow. The suckers can be separated from the adult in
late summer since the adult will begin to decline after flowering.
Water the soil minimally, and use a water-soluble fertilizer mixed at
one-third of the suggested strength; add the fertilizer directly into
the vase to encourage strong growth in the late summer and fall
months. This plant must be brought inside during the winter, and it
will bloom from the suckers that it produces.
Master Gardener Derek Thomas is principal landscape designer
at Thomas Landscapes and Maintenance. He can be reached at
301-642-5182 or www.thomaslandscapes.com.
capitalcommunitynews.com ★ 59