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Don’t Let Winter Stop You from Gardening bring the green indoors BY DEREK THOMAS For most of this winter, we have enjoyed the benefits of El Nino, global warming, a seasonably warm winter - or perhaps all of the above. Fact is there were flowering annuals on many of Washington’s doorsteps through December, and I have several tropicals that lasted in a protected area through the first weeks of the New Year. During the last few weeks our mild weather pattern has quickly changed. The recent blows of winter have been unusually harsh. Not because it has been historically cold, but due primarily to the fact that it has been suddenly cold. Our outdoor gardening has quickly been put off till early March. If this rapid change has left you feeling empty 58 ★ DC NORTH | February 2007 in your gardening frolics, why not use this time to spruce up or add to your houseplant collection? Indoor plants bring joy to many gardeners when outside temperatures prohibit them from working in their garden sanctuaries. During February there are many tasks that can keep you busy with your indoor gardens and help soften the blow of old man winter. Pruning Most plants during winter have slowed or stopped growing due to shorter days. In February the days get noticeably longer to you and your photosynthesizing friends, (photosynthesis is the process that plants use to make food). Therefore pruning any unwanted stray limbs in February will be perfectly timed for the new explosion of growth that will start soon. Re-potting Container-grown indoor plants will benefit from repotting every two to three years. The proper size to pot up to is about two to four inches larger than the container the plant is in currently. Resist the temptation to plant in a container that is bigger, since soils can sour, and roots will not grow into the soured soil. This is a good time to remove about thirty percent of the existing soil and any white buildup on top of the root mass - this white substance is salt residue from commercial fertilizers. When placing your transplant in the new container, make sure that the soil line is maintained, and do not plant the plant deeper than it sat in its old container. Dividing When repotting, if the plant is multi-stemmed, it may be a candidate for division. Dividing your houseplants is a great way to get more plants for you and your friends. Some plants can be divided by hand, and others may need to be divided with pruners or a sharp knife. What you have to make sure of when dividing a plant is that each new plant has enough root mass to be self supporting. Some plants will let you know when it is time to divide because portions of the otherwise healthy plant will start to show signs of yellowing leaves. When a multi-stemmed plant starts to rise out of the pot, it is usually a good indication that it is time to divide. Keep in mind the new plants will need a new pot that is the same size or slightly smaller to prevent the souring of soil and rotting of the roots. When dividing a plant, place it in a terracotta pot; this will help with the air circulation while the division grows new roots and becomes self supporting. Cleaning Houseplants should be cleaned regularly. Using a clean, damp cloth with a little dish soap will do the job. Clean a second time with plain water to make sure that the soap residue is removed. If there is a large buildup of dust, put the entire plant in the shower, and give it a lukewarm shower before cleaning the leaves. Refrain from using plant polishing products since they create an unhealthy residue that can block the absorption of light. Plants with fuzzy or furry leaves should not be washed. You can use a pipe cleaner or a can of forced air to remove the dust from the leaves. There is a great benefit to keeping the leaves clean since a clean, dust-free leaf can photosynthesize better than a dirty one. Adding a plant to the collection Master Gardener Derek Thomas is principal landscape designer at Thomas Landscapes and Maintenance. He can be reached at 301-642-5182 or www. thomaslandscapes.com. ■ Aechmea fasciata by Derek Thomas This is one plant from the dozens of plant groups of bromeliads that are available for indoor cultivation. The common name is “vase” or “urn” plant due to the shape of the mature plant. As this plant grows, the silvery scales that cover the strap shed, leaving green bands on the lilac gray leaves. The pink flower is really a bract that lasts for three to four months. The actual flowers are purplish blue and open inside the cuts and layers of the pink bract. Plant Profile Whether this is your first attempt at indoor plants or you are a seasoned pro, it’s fun to add a new plant to your collection. The following are easy care, beautiful additions to any indoor plantscape. Ficus lyrata, Fiddle leaf fig. This is a must-have if you are looking for a large tree-form plant to fill the bay window area in the front of your home. This plant has large, dramatic violin-shaped leaves. Mature leaves can reach 10 inches by 15 inches large, with beautiful veined and puckered textures. Fiddle leaf figs are very easy to grow. Give them bright, indirect sunlight. Provide with an organic rich potting medium. Let the plant dry slightly between watering - over watering will cause leaf drop and could lead to root rot. Fertilize in spring through fall with a complete indoor plant fertilizer. Watch for scale and spider mites. Dracaena marginata. Dracaenas are tough spike-leaved plants with many different varieties. The D. marginata is a beautiful houseplant that can reach a height of ten feet indoors. The stems are slender gray and will bend as they grow. The top portion of the plant is where the leaves will be located in crown-like masses. The leaves are glossy green, edged in purple. Give the plant bright, indirect light, typical indoor temperatures, and moist well-drained soil, and watch this plant reach for the ceilings. Dracaena massangeana, Corn plant. This is a widely used commercial plant that has gained in popularity due largely to its ease of care and minimal light requirements. Care is the same as a D. marginata (above). Be especially careful of over watering. Many times this plant comes in a large, caned, multi-stemmed tree form that adds prominence and elegance to the high ceilings of Washington’s town homes. Schefflera, Umbrella tree. This wide spreading, quick growing tree is prefect for the new loft-style habitats that have become the rage in Washington. This plant will easily reach 10 to 12 feet and deserves a prominent spot to spread out. Bright light and moderate moisture with regular fertilization will help this specimen grow into even the largest of spaces quite rapidly. If possible, move to a sheltered outdoor space during the warm months. If and when this plant gets too large, cutting it down will cause it to become multistemmed at the point where it is cut. Prune in late winter for best results. Watch for scale and spider mites. Crassula ovata, Jade plant. This succulent will slowly grow into a fourto five-foot tree outdoors in warmer climates. Indoors, give this plant bright light (the brighter the better), and a well-drained potting mix that is rich in sand for increased drainage. Fertilize two or three time a year, and water once the medium has dried. Plant in a heavy container, or add stones to the pot when repotting. Jade plants can become very top heavy as they mature and will topple over if planted in a lightweight container. These are just a few of the plants that are wonderful candidates for the indoor garden. Having several of them in the home will add life and joy to the starkest, coldest of winters. Enjoy. In its native lands, the center of the “vase” catches rainwater that is loaded with the nutrients the plant needs. In indoor cultivation, keep water in the vase and your bromeliad will be happy. Withhold fertilizer for several months in the winter, and provide it with very bright light indoors to bring a young plant into bloom. The parent will enjoy a shaded spot in the garden during the summer months. Shortly after blooming the suckers (young plants) will break the soil and begin to grow. The suckers can be separated from the adult in late summer since the adult will begin to decline after flowering. Water the soil minimally, and use a water-soluble fertilizer mixed at one-third of the suggested strength; add the fertilizer directly into the vase to encourage strong growth in the late summer and fall months. This plant must be brought inside during the winter, and it will bloom from the suckers that it produces. Master Gardener Derek Thomas is principal landscape designer at Thomas Landscapes and Maintenance. He can be reached at 301-642-5182 or www.thomaslandscapes.com. capitalcommunitynews.com ★ 59