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Your Domestic Shorthair’s Genetic Health Book 2 Congratulations! You’re about to discover the story of your cat’s history and genetic health Thank you for choosing the OriVet Genetic Health Book to uncover the story of Your Domestic Shorthair’s genetic health. Congratulations on taking the steps to learn about your cat’s unique nature and to understand her special health needs. Knowing your cat’s unique genetic makeup is more than a novelty - it is a medical necessity. Your cat’s breed is her ancestral genetic signature and carries unique health concerns much the same as her age, sex and lifestyle. We believe that combining this knowledge enables you to provide a lifetime of excellent care and live a happier life with your friend. In this book, you will find detailed information specific to Your Domestic Shorthair's health. It is important to carefully review your entire report and discuss the results with your veterinarian to gain the most value out of your cat’s Genetic Health Report. Your vet can help you use your report to help better care for your cat. The next time you visit your veterinarian, consider taking this book with you and ask for specific screening that may be available for your cat. Dr. Noam Pik Orivet Managing director 3 Table of contents Chapter 1 Domestic Shorthair’s breed description, history, temperament and behavior, special needs and requirements Chapter 2 Genetic diseases and inherited disease information specific to Domestic Shorthair Chapter 3 Caring for your Domestic Shorthair, a lifetime personalised wellness program Chapter 4 Making your home a cat's paradise Chapter 5 Cat nutrition Chapter 6 Dental health 4 Domestic Shorthair Traits The DSH can be almost any colour or coat pattern The DSH is directly descended from the African Wildcat There is a DSH to fit almost any household and any person! The DSH can vary enormously in temperament and behaviour Ancestral Genetics 5 Ancestral Genetics History The domestic shorthair (DSH), also known as the “moggie”, is not a recognised breed of cat. All domestic cats are of the same species (Felis catus) and while many breeds have either developed largely on their own (e.g. in a certain geographic location) or have been developed by breeders, the domestic shorthair is a “wild-type” cat that is the product of natural breeding over thousands of years. The name domestic shorthair is usually applied to any domestic cat with an unknown ancestry. The domestic cat has been around for thousands of years, and is now known to have descended from the Wildcat (or Felis silvestris). There are five subgroups of Wildcat, and recent DNA studies have shown that all domestic cats today descended from the Near Eastern Wildcat, also known as the African Wildcat (Felis silvestris lybica). When people first started settling in established agricultural communities, these cats would have become useful by keeping rodents away from grain stores. In return, cats found an easy source of food, and over time gained shelter and warmth from farmers in return for their mousing and ratting skills. In this manner, over generations, the Wildcat became domesticated, and adapted gradually to suit her new environment, wherever that may have been. Felis silvestris lybica (African Wildcat). Photo by Milan Korinek General Breed Description Domestic cats can and do interbreed with Felis silvestris, and there are concerns that the true Wildcat will become extinct due to this crossbreeding in the near future. However, it is also suggested that the domestic cat is essentially part of the same species, and you may also see the domestic cat labelled as Felis silvestris catus, indicating that it is a subspecies of the Wildcat. The domestic shorthair is very similar in appearance to the African Wildcat and archaeological studies have found it difficult to distinguish the two based on their skeletons alone. The domestic shorthair is slightly smaller on average than the African Wildcat, and varies also in coat colour and temperament. The domestic shorthair is in general a fairly “average” type of cat. She does not display extremes in conformation and is a well proportioned cat. The coat is short, and can come in almost any colour or pattern imaginable. Eye colour can also be any colour, including odd-eyed. The domestic shorthair is usually of an “average” size, weighing 6 - 4 kg. Males are generally bigger than females. An adult domestic longhair Domestic shorthairs do vary somewhat in their appearance in different geographical areas. For instance, those from colder European areas tend to be somewhat stocky with a thicker coat, while those in hotter climates such as South East Asia tend to be slimmer and have thinner coats. 6 Ancestral Genetics Breed Temperament and Behaviour Just as the appearance of the domestic shorthair may vary widely, so too may her temperament. Almost all will be playful as kittens, however it can be very difficult to predict the temperament of an adult cat. She may be outgoing or reserved, vocal or quiet, playful or restrained. This does mean that amongst the domestic shorthairs, there is bound to be one that is just perfect for you! Temperament is also greatly influenced by a kitten’s early socialisation and care. Spending lots of time with your kitten bonding will help her to be a more confident, settled individual as an adult. Requirements and Needs The needs of the domestic shorthair are similar to those of all cats, in that they require a caring and protective environment and someone who is prepared to spend plenty of time with them. While they do not require much grooming, it is a good habit to get into from a young age, and as well as removing dead hairs grooming also helps to stimulate blood flow in the skin. A weekly comb is generally sufficient for the domestic shorthair, although more may be required for some during shedding season. Best Suited to As there is so much variety to be found amongst the domestic shorthairs, there is one to suit almost any situation, whether it is a large family environment or a single person looking for a loving companion. 7 Genetic Disease The list of diseases below was generated by reviewing the latest scientific literature. It does not mean your pet will ever actually contract any of these diseases. Please Note The diseases listed are showing INCREASED RISK ONLY and are a result of calculations comparing your cat›s details to studies published in the world literature on genetic risk associated with this breed. This offers an opportunity to be on the lookout for these conditions, diagnose them early, treat more effectively and in some cases even prevent them. 8 Genetic Disease Most Common and/or Most Severe BreedPredisposed Conditions These are amongst the most common diseases and conditions seen in the domestic cat, or are conditions that have the most serious impact on the health and welfare of Felis catus. It does not cover all the diseases that she may be prone to. These are not breed-associated conditions as such, as the domestic shorthair is not a recognised breed of cat. 1. Chronic Kidney Disease Chronic kidney disease (CKD) is not a single disease, but more the end result of a number of different disease processes, and is one of the leading causes of illness and death in older cats. It is defined as kidney disease that has been present for months to years, and there are many potential causes of CKD. Often by the time a cat is showing signs of kidney disease, the cause may be unknown. By the time a cat is showing clinical signs of CKD she has already lost at least 75% of the functional capacity of her kidneys. This means 75% of the filtering units within the kidneys (called nephrons) no longer work at all. The remaining nephrons are working as hard as they can, but they can no longer keep up with the demands placed on them for the filtration of toxins from the body, maintaining electrolyte balance, and conserving water. Eventually they will fail too. The more common signs of chronic kidney disease may include excessive drinking (polydypsia) and excessive urination (polyuria), poor appetite and weight loss, vomiting +/- diarrhoea, lack of energy and less inclination to play or exercise. Cats with CKD may become anaemic due to a lack of erythropoietin (EPO) production by the kidneys, may become weak due to low potassium levels, may have high blood pressure (hypertension) due to sodium retention, and may deposit calcium in their tissues (abnormal mineralisation) due to retention of phosphorus. Abnormal phosphorus levels can also lead to weakening of bones and sometimes can lead to pathologic bone fractures. Hypertension can cause sudden blindness, as well as damage to organs such as the heart, brain and further damage to the kidneys. The build up of toxins that are normally excreted by the kidneys (such as urea and creatinine) can lead to a state of acidosis and the formation of ulcers in the mouth and other parts of the gastrointestinal tract. Platelets may not function properly and bleeding into the stomach or under the skin can occur. 9 Genetic Disease A bag of intravenous fluids, which may be used for rehydration therapy Screening for chronic kidney disease: 1. From age of 7 years annual test for proteinuria and urine specific gravity (note USG does not affect HESKA® MA test, but can affect urine dipstick results) Consider urine protein/creatinine ratio. Treatment of CKD usually involves dietary modification to restrict protein and phosphorus intake. There is controversy over the restriction of protein in the diet of the feline CKD patient, as these cats often suffer from quite marked muscle wasting. Studies have not shown any benefit in terms of survival time by restricting protein levels in the cat with CKD. However, when phosphorus is restricted as well, survival time in one study more than doubled. It is generally thought that the focus should be on high quality (i.e. very digestible) protein content, so that there is less metabolic waste produced for the kidneys to have to deal with, as well as focussing strongly on phosphorus control. Phosphate binders should be given if phosphorus levels are not controlled with diet alone. Your vet will also address any other secondary concerns such as low potassium levels, high blood pressure and anaemia. Dehydration can be a major problem in the CKD patient, especially if vomiting is occurring or the cat is not able to drink enough to stay well hydrated. Often fluids will be given under the skin periodically, and your vet can show you how to do this at home, to minimise the stress caused to your cat by numerous visits to the vet. Rehydration helps the cat to feel better within herself, meaning she is more likely to eat. Medication can also help to reduce nausea. Chronic kidney disease cannot be cured. All treatments, including kidney transplants, are aimed at controlling the various abnormalities associated with CKD in order to provide the patient with a good quality of life for as long as possible. Ultimately quality of life becomes affected to the point where euthanasia will be required. 2. Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD) Feline lower urinary tract disease (or FLUTD) is a term that covers a number of conditions of the lower urinary tract of the cat, rather than being one specific disease. These conditions all result in similar clinical signs, hence are covered by the name FLUTD. Cats with FLUTD usually present with one or more of the following clinical signs: • Difficult or painful urination (known as dysuria). This may cause straining to urinate, and cats may cry when urinating. • Frequent urination (known as pollakiuria). Irritation leads to frequent attempts to pass urine, even if the bladder is not full. • Blood in the urine (known as haematuria). 10 Genetic Disease • Changes in behaviour. These may include urinating outside the litter box and urinating in inappropriate places (also called periuria). This can occur because of the frequent urge to urinate, with your cat not having enough time to reach the litter box. Cats may also become irritated, withdrawn and may groom the area around the perineum excessively due to pain and irritation. • Inability to pass urine (anuria). Total inability to pass urine can occur due to physiological or physical obstruction (i.e. a blockage). This usually occurs in male cats, and should be treated as an immediate medical emergency. A cat that cannot pass urine will develop electrolyte imbalances, acute kidney failure and can fall into a coma and die in a very short time frame (i.e. 24-48 hours). The earlier treatment is started, the better the chances for survival. There are a number of different causes of FLUTD in cats, but the most common is idiopathic cystitis, which is responsible for 60-70% of all cases of FLUTD. Idiopathic cystitis means inflammation of the bladder with no identifiable cause. It is similar to a condition in humans called “interstitial cystitis”, and stress is believed to play a major role in its development. Other causes of FLUTD include bladder stones (called urolithiasis), which accounts for around 10-15% of cases of FLUTD, obstruction of the urinary tract with urethral plugs (which may be associated with idiopathic cystitis or with crystals in the urine and associated bladder inflammation), bacterial infection of the bladder, which is uncommon and usually seen in older cats (and is thought to represent <10% of all cases of FLUTD), anatomical defects and scarring of the urinary tract (rare), and cancer (also quite uncommon and usually seen in older cats). It is important that a urinalysis is performed on any cat showing signs of FLUTD, to avoid treating for the wrong underlying cause. Recurring cases should have a full diagnostic work up, including imaging studies to rule out urolithiasis (stones). In cases of idiopathic cystitis, the main aim of treatment is to prevent recurrence and relieve symptoms. There is rarely a justification to withhold pain relief from any cat with FLUTD. In the longer term, stress reduction and increasing fluid intake are important management steps. Struvite stone within the urinary bladder of a cat Antibiotics are not indicated for FLUTD unless bacterial infection is present and a urine culture and sensitivity test has been carried 11 Genetic Disease out at a lab to ensure that the correct antibiotic is being used. Urinary acidifiers are not currently recommended for cases of FLUTD with struvite crystals, as over-acidification of the urine can lead to problems with calcium oxalate crystals (or stones) as well as a metabolic acidosis. An appropriate feline diet should create mildly acidic urine anyway, which should control struvite crystalluria. Bladder stones may need to be removed surgically. Screening for FLUTD: There is no screening test as there can be a number of different causes. Crystalluria can be a normal finding in the cat. The measures best employed to avoid or reduce the frequency of FLUTD are to feed a good quality, meat-based wet food diet, to provide plenty of fresh water, and to keep stress in the environment as low as possible. This is discussed in more detail in the following chapters. 3. Hyperthyroidism Hyperthyroidism is a common disease of cats where there is an overproduction of thyroid hormone. There are two thyroid glands, one on each side of the neck. In most cases (more than 70%) hyperthyroidism occurs due to a benign disease of the thyroid glands called “nodular hyperplasia”, the underlying cause of which is not fully understood. Some cases are due to a benign tumour called a thyroid adenoma, which generally affects just one thyroid gland, not both. Rarely, hyperthyroidism may be due to a malignant tumour of the thyroid, called a thyroid adenocarcinoma. Hyperthyroidism affects almost all organs in the body, and so can have quite a wide variety of clinical signs. The most commonly seen include: weight loss despite a normal or often increased appetite, increased thirst, restlessness or irritability, an increased heart rate, and often a poor coat. Sometimes vomiting and/or diarrhoea are seen, and occasionally cats may become depressed and develop a poor appetite. Hyperthyroidism is diagnosed by your veterinarian, usually by measuring the level of thyroid hormone (T4) in the blood. A full blood screen and urine test is carried out to screen for other illness that can be present either at the same time as, or as a consequence of the hyperthyroidism. Because hyperthyroidism is generally a disease of middle aged to older cats, other diseases such as chronic kidney disease (CKD) may also be present. In fact, the hyperthyroidism can mask the signs of CKD. Heart disease can result from hyperthyroidism, because it causes persistently high heart rates and increased force of contraction of the heart. 12 Genetic Disease Sometimes liver enzymes are also increased. Hypertension (high blood pressure) is another common consequence of hyperthyroidism, and can lead to further damage to organs such as the eyes, kidneys, brain and heart. There are three main classes of treatment for hyperthyroidism and treatment of secondary diseases such as heart disease or hypertension may also be required initially. The treatment of choice in most cases is radioactive iodine. This involves a hospital stay of around a week in a specialised facility, where an affected cat is given an injection of radioactive iodine. This iodine accumulates in the abnormal thyroid tissue which is producing the excess thyroid hormone, and the radioactivity kills the abnormal cells. The cat stays in hospital while the radioactive material is excreted from the body. This procedure has a 95% success rate, with few side effects and in most cases a cure is obtained. Another treatment option is medical management with antithyroid medications, such as carbimazole tablets or methimazole transdermal cream. This medication is required twice daily for life, and blocks the production of thyroid hormone, thereby controlling the levels of thyroid hormone. It is relatively cheap, and usually associated with few side effects. Some cats may experience transient vomiting and inappetance, although this is usually less so with carbimazole than methimazole tablets, and also occurs less with transdermal creams, which are usually applied to the inside of the ear, and are very well tolerated. Less commonly performed now than in the past is surgical resection of the abnormal thyroid tissue. This may be the preferred option for a malignant tumour however, so nuclear scanning at a specialist facility may be a good idea if you want to rule out this form of hyperthyroidism. Malignant tumours occur in 1-3% of feline hyperthyroid cases. Surgical removal of abnormal thyroid tissue does provide a cure; however there are risks with anaesthetising hyperthyroid cats, especially if some degree of heart disease is present. There is also a major risk of damage to the parathyroid glands, which sit next to or within the thyroid glands, and are responsible for the regulation of calcium levels in the blood. Low calcium levels post-operatively can cause seizures. The risk of this occurring is not as high with disease in only one thyroid gland (i.e. surgery to one side of the neck only). 13 Genetic Disease Screening for hyperthyroidism: 1. Thorough history, examination and weigh at every regular recommended examination from 7 years of age, including neck palpation. 2. Consider T4 if any concern re: hyperthyroidism. A new treatment is currently being promoted in the form of a diet low in iodine, with the idea that low iodine levels in the diet will prevent thyroid hormone from being formed. There is some controversy regarding this approach, as some have postulated than chronic low iodine in the feline diet may be a contributing factor to the development of hyperthyroidism as a disease. Also a chronic low iodine state may have other deleterious health effects on the body. This approach is currently recommended by many feline practitioners as a last resort option only. 4. Chronic Bronchial Disease (Feline Asthma) Chronic bronchial disease in cats has similarities to chronic bronchitis of humans and to human asthma. It is also sometimes called feline asthma. In humans, chronic bronchitis and asthma are two different diseases. Asthma is a condition where the airways suddenly become severely narrowed, usually due to reaction to an irritant or allergen. This can cause sudden and severe breathing difficulties, and may be rapidly fatal. Chronic bronchitis is caused by irritants being breathed in, causing inflammation of the airways and an increase in mucous production. Eventually this inflammation can permanently damage and narrow the airways. The most common cause of this in humans is smoking. The signs of chronic bronchial disease in cats may include one or all of: rapid or laboured breathing, coughing, wheezing, panting or open-mouth breathing, lethargy, exercise intolerance and occasionally sudden onset of severe difficulty in breathing with gasping and wheezing (similar to an asthma attack in people). Any difficulty breathing requires emergency treatment in a veterinary hospital, and is usually responsive to oxygen, bronchodilators and antiinflammatories. 14 An AeroKat® spacer used to deliver inhaler medication to cats Screening for chronic bronchial disease: None available at this time. Chronic bronchial disease is diagnosed by ruling out other causes of breathing problems, and usually involves blood tests, x-rays, scoping of the airways, and a bronchiolar lavage (sterile saline flushed into the airways then removed for examination). Treatment is generally life-long and involves using an inhaler system to deliver antiinflammatories +/- bronchodilators into the lungs. This is generally well tolerated by cats, and avoids the side effects associated with using long term systemic (e.g. tablets) antiinflammatory therapy. Chronic bronchial disease is a common disease of cats. The causes are not well understood, but are probably similar to those associated with chronic bronchitis and asthma in humans. Signs may be fairly constant or may come and go, and they may vary in their severity between individuals. Cats of any age, breed and sex may be affected by chronic bronchial disease, but it is most commonly seen in cats aged 2-6 years old (mean age of 4). There is a marked predisposition in Siamese and related breeds, which may be due to a genetic influence. Certainly a genetic factor is believed to be involved in human asthma. Siamese also may be prone to develop more serious signs when they have the disease (as compared to other breeds) and also to develop the condition at a younger age. 5. Osteoarthritis Traditionally, osteoarthritis (which is commonly just called arthritis) has been somewhat under-diagnosed in cats. This may be partly because cats show signs of arthritis differently to dogs, and it is not always obvious to owners. However, it has been estimated that 70-90% of older cats have signs of arthritis on x-ray, while up to a third of all cats show clinical signs of arthritis. Arthritis may be seen in all breeds of cat, while those predisposed to hip dysplasia and patellar luxation may have a higher risk of developing arthritis secondary to these conditions. Arthritis results in pain in affected joints, and generally a restricted range of movement in the joint/s. Cats with osteoarthritis will often show an increased tendency to sleep, and a reduction in activity. They may also lose weight. Often owners will assume this is just associated with “getting old”. Cats also tend to be reluctant to jump, and may also be less willing to climb in and out of the litter tray, and so appear to lose their litter box training. 15 Where the arthritis is associated with the hip joints, there may be obvious muscle wasting over the pelvic area and in the hind limbs, and the cat may have an obvious limp. The hip area may be painful to touch, and an affected cat may resent patting of the area. This may also be true with arthritis of the spine, with owners thinking that their older cat is getting “grumpy” in her old age. Arthritis associated with the elbows may cause the cat to walk with the elbows held out from the chest somewhat. A cat may be less willing to jump down than she is to jump up with pain in the front legs. Screening for osteoarthritis: None available. (Note that screening for predisposing conditions such as hip or elbow dysplasia is available). Your vet will diagnose arthritis by examining and manipulating the joints, and by taking x-rays to rule out any other causes of pain (e.g. trauma, tumours etc). Treatment often involves medication with joint supplements and an antiinflammatory that is safe for long term use in cats, provided blood tests show no other underlying disease. It will also be necessary to adjust the home environment to make it easier for your cat to move around easily, such as ensuring that food, water and bedding is low and accessible, that ramps are installed where needed for your cat to access her safe places and furniture, and that litter is easy to access (e.g. provide a low sided litter box, or a ramp to litter box). With severe hip dysplasia, surgical treatment may provide the best option for pain relief and restoration of normal movement. 6. Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy (HCM) Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM) is the most common heart condition in cats, with familial (inherited) forms of the disease having been recognised in a number of breeds. The disease in cats is similar to the disease in humans, where more than 120 mutations located on 12 different genes have been shown to be able to cause HCM. HCM causes abnormal thickening of the heart muscle, and this means that the heart cannot function properly. Blood tends to become “backed up” in the atrium and in the veins of the lungs. Eventually this increased blood in the lungs leads to leakage of fluid into the air spaces, which is called pulmonary oedema. When this happens, the cat has congestive heart failure. As well as congestive heart failure, HCM can lead to arrhythmias (abnormal heart rhythms) and sometimes this can cause sudden death without any prior clinical signs of heart disease being seen. Another uncommon complication of HCM is aortic 16 thromboembolism, where a blood clot forms in the enlarged left atrium and at some point is ejected from the heart and lodges in the aorta - commonly where it narrows and branches to go to the hindlimbs. This leads to a lack of blood flow to the hind legs, and causes paralysis and is very painful. Clots may less commonly lodge elsewhere, such as in the lungs or brain. Screening for hypertrophic cardiomyopathy: 1. Heart examination including careful auscultation every year from 1 year of age 2. Echocardiography at 1 year of age and recommend yearly for breeding animals. Perform on any cat with abnormal auscultation findings. Consider regular screening echocardiogram on any cat if owner concerned. HCM can occur at any age, although is more often seen in middle aged cats. Diagnosis of HCM is based on a cardiac ultrasound (echocardiogram), and should generally be performed by a specialist. There is no cure for HCM, although if thickening of the heart muscle is secondary to another disease, such as hyperthyroidism, treatment of the primary condition may resolve the cardiac condition. Treatment of HCM aims to manage signs of congestive heart failure, and reduce the abnormality of muscle relaxation as much as possible. Recent studies have shown that calcium channel blockers (e.g. diltiazem) have shown good results at improving heart function and blood flow around the body. Drugs to control arrhythmias are given if needed. Therapy is often given to try to prevent blood clots from forming in the heart (e.g. aspirin), although studies have shown that this treatment is not all that effective, and will not get rid of clots that have already formed. This treatment must be monitored carefully, as it can also lead to an increased risk of bleeding. 7. Feline Diabetes Mellitus Diabetes mellitus is a complex disease that occurs when the body does not produce enough insulin, and/or does not respond to insulin properly. Insulin is a hormone that controls the movement of glucose from the blood into cells, where it is used for energy. By far the most common type of diabetes in cats (called feline diabetes mellitus) is a form that is very similar to type 2 diabetes mellitus of humans. Amyloid is deposited in the beta cells of the pancreas, which produce insulin. Over time this process leads to the progressive loss of these insulin-producing cells. This is quite different to the type of diabetes mellitus that is seen in dogs. Feline diabetes mellitus is thought to have a genetic component, and does show certain breed dispositions. The Burmese cat is affected most commonly, except Burmese cats in the USA. (About 1 in every 50 Burmese cats in Australia is affected, compared to 1 in every 200 domestic cats). The disease most commonly affects middle aged, overweight cats, and affected cats have 17 a genetic predisposition to insulin resistance. Environmental factors such as being overweight, activity levels, and diet also affect whether or not a predisposed individual will go on to develop diabetes. A cat with diabetes has persistently high levels of glucose in the blood, which then leads to glucose being excreted in the urine. This causes an increase in the amount of urine produced, and so a cat will drink more to compensate. Often a cat will eat more, although she will be losing weight because she cannot use the food she eats for energy very efficiently. Instead of being able to use glucose from normal metabolism for energy (i.e. proteins in her food) the body will break down fat as an alternate energy source, and this causes an increase in acids in the body. Insulin and syringe Screening for feline diabetes mellitus: 1. Fructosamine levels annually from 4-5 years of age. 2. Glucose intolerance or insulin resistance will be seen prior to clinical signs of hyperglycaemia - consider glucose tolerance test if required. Sometimes a cat may develop ketoacidosis, a very serious condition where she will become lethargic, dehydrated and will not eat, will be vomiting, and if not treated quickly and intensively, may die. Other complications of feline diabetes mellitus that may develop include urinary tract infections, and less commonly peripheral neuropathy (weakness or paralysis of the hind legs - sometimes this is painful and sometimes the cat cannot feel anything in the hind feet), and retinopathy (changes in the retina at the back of the eye leading to loss of vision). Some cats can be managed with diet change and oral hypoglycaemic drugs; however 50 - 75% of cats with diabetes will require insulin injections. This is an injection under the skin, and does not hurt the cat. Weight loss is an important part of treatment, because once a cat has lost excess weight, she may not require insulin treatment any more. This is called remission, and around a third of all diabetic cats will develop remission (i.e. no longer need insulin) within 1 - 4 months of starting treatment for diabetes mellitus. Prevention in a predisposed cat (which includes any relative of an affected cat) includes feeding a high protein, low carbohydrate diet, ensuring she maintains a healthy weight, and ensuring that she maintains an active lifestyle. 18 8. Inherited Deafness Inherited deafness is most commonly seen in white cats with two blue eyes. It is less commonly seen in white cats with one blue eye, and even less commonly in white cats with no blue eyes (i.e. with two non-blue coloured eyes). Deafness is thought to occur due to a lack of pigmented cells within the inner ear, which appear to be vital for maintaining the blood supply to the sensory hair cells of the cochlear. Deafness is not present from birth, but is lost at around 3-4 weeks of age. Hence hearing testing on white cats should be carried out at around 6-8 weeks of age. A deaf cat Screening for inherited deafness: 1. Routine hearing tests in all white kittens from 6-8 weeks 2. BAER testing recommended at 6-8 weeks of age as only reliable way to detect unilateral deafness. In a large study of mixed-breed white cats, 50% of cats in the study were affected by inherited deafness to some degree (i.e. were deaf in one or both ears). In cats with two blue eyes, 85% were affected by deafness, while cats with one blue eye suffered deafness in 40% of cases. White cats with no blue eyes showed deafness only 17% of the time. It has also been found that the only reliable way to diagnose unilateral deafness (that is, deafness in one ear only) is by specialised testing known as the brain stem auditory evoked response (BAER). This testing involves putting electrodes over the kittens head, and measuring the brain waves occurring in response to a noise that is introduced into the ear canal. Deaf kittens may fail to wake up in response to a loud noise, or may fail to react to the source of a sound. These kittens rely on their littermates for visual cues, and may cry loudly when separated from their littermates. They may also be rougher than usual with their littermates, as they cannot hear them cry, which would be the usual signal that they are hurt and it is time to stop rough play. A deaf cat from an at risk breed should be assumed to have hereditary deafness unless very strong evidence exists for an acquired form (e.g. known exposure to an ototoxin). Even then, it may be prudent to desex a deaf animal to prevent inherited deafness from possibly being passed on. A deaf cat can make a good indoor pet, but should not be allowed outside, as she will be at high risk of injury due to vehicles or dogs that she cannot hear coming. People in her house, especially children, should be taught not to startle her. 19 Other Conditions Which Are Less Common or Less Devastating In the Breed These conditions are also seen with a higher than usual incidence in the domestic shorthair. These conditions may not be as common as those covered in more detail above, or may have less of an impact on the cat’s health and welfare when they occur. This is not a complete list of every disease that the domestic shorthair may experience. Upper respiratory tract infection (“Cat flu”) Lymphoma Megacolon Eosinophilic granuloma complex Anxiety and behaviour related disorders Feline infectious peritonitis (FIP) Squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) Feline acne Geriatric dementia Food intolerance and allergies Hepatic lipidosis Pancreatitis and triaditis Pleural effusion Atopy Feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV) Feline leukaemia virus (FeLV) 20 Caring For Your Domestic Shorthair 21 Caring for your Domestic Shorthair Caring for your Domestic Shorthair So, now you know a little bit more about your breed of cat! Cats are wonderful companions, as any cat owner knows. There is nothing quite like the comfort of a purring cat curled up on your lap. Cats certainly are individuals, each with their own personality and quirks that we, as their carers, must accommodate. All cats are creatures of habit, and thrive on routine and familiarity. We need to avoid upsetting the routine of our feline friends as much as possible, or run the risk of any one of a multitude of stress and anxiety related problems and illnesses. In this guide we will outline some of the basic information that will help you provide your cat with the care they require for a long, happy and healthy life. We will focus on the very specific nutritional needs of the cat, and we will also look in particular on the care and requirements of the indoor cat. Responsible pet ownership means that we must ensure that our cat is not just regularly fed, but that she is safe, happy, healthy and protected from harm at all times. Contrary to some commonly held beliefs, cats do not need to roam to be happy. Indeed, a cat spends around 18 hours a day sleeping, and is perfectly happy living an indoor life, especially if raised this way from kitten hood. Studies have shown that the average lifespan of an indoor cat is over 12 years, while that of an outdoor cat is less than 5 years. Outdoor cats are exposed to many risks, including traffic, dogs, the risk of injury from other cats, the risk of exposure to infectious diseases (such as FIV), as well as the risk from poisons (whether intentional or not), snakebite and malicious injury from humans. Less than 5% of cats that end up in shelters return to their homes, and less than 30% will be rehomed with another family. Almost all animal health professionals and animal welfare experts agree that cats should be housed indoors, due to the much greater health and welfare benefits. For further information on responsible pet ownership, . An indoor cat can still explore the outdoors, either with the provision of a cat run, or by training to use a harness and lead. This will be covered in more detail later. Healthy Cat Plan We have looked at some of the more common and/or severe diseases that your breed of cat may be prone to, and we will also look at how you and your vet can plan together a preventative health initiative to reduce the risks of your cat developing any of these illnesses, or if she does to ensure that it is detected as early as possible, so that it can be treated early with as little impact on your cat’s quality of life as possible. Remember, just because these diseases are more common in your breed does not mean she will necessarily go on to develop any of them, it is just an increase in risk. 22 Caring for your Domestic Shorthair Recommended schedule for taking your Domestic Shorthair to see your vet AGE What The Vet Does Diseases Tested For Other Things Done At This Visit 6-9 weeks Full examination. First vaccination for core feline vaccines. Check and treat parasites. Kitten eye exam. Check for heart murmurs. Hearing test in white kittens. 12-13 weeks Full examination. Revaccinate all kittens every 3-4 weeks until 16 weeks of age. Full examination. Final kitten vaccination should occur at minimum age of 16 weeks. Ensure parasite control plan in place. Recheck eyes. Check for heart murmurs. Full examination. Desexing is undertaken at some time up to 6 months of age.* Annual full examination. 1st booster vaccination for core vaccines. Discuss non-core vaccine requirement with your vet (e.g. FIV). Annual full examination. Core vaccines recommended to be given no more than every 3 years (your vet will discuss your cat’s individual needs). Annual full mature cat examination. Continue with individualised vaccination plan as discussed with your vet. Examine teeth, joints etc fully whilst under GA. Weigh, assess body condition and growth rate. Discuss nutrition and kitten care. Discuss kitten kindy classes. Weigh, assess body condition and growth rate. Kitten classes held between 12-14 weeks. Weigh, assess body condition and growth rate. Discuss ongoing nutrition needs. If required prepare for desexing - e.g. blood tests, DNA testing, blood typing, retroviral testing. Weigh, assess body condition and growth rate. Discuss ongoing nutrition needs. Weigh, assess body condition. Discuss ongoing nutrition needs. 10-15 years Full senior cat examination every 6 months. Add to minimum data base T4 and BP, continue annually. # Check heart. Nutritional assessment. 15+ years Full geriatric cat examination every 6 months. Continue minimum data base annually. # Check heart. Nutritional assessment. 16-17 weeks 12-26 weeks* 1 year 2-7 years 7-10 years Recheck eyes. Check for heart murmurs - fully investigate any murmur present. Eye check, heart check (consider echo if concerned) Consider retinal check - for hypertension. Check heart (consider echo if concerned). Consider minimum database collection (as below) from 4-5 yrs. Weigh, assess body condition. Discuss ongoing nutrition needs. Consider retinal check - for hypertension. Check heart. Minimum data base collection annually CBC, Biochem panel, UA, faecal +/- T4, BP.# Weigh, assess body condition, muscle score. Assess movement and cognition. Discuss ongoing nutrition needs. Weigh, assess body condition, muscle score. Assess movement and cognition. Discuss ongoing nutrition needs. Weigh, assess body condition, muscle score. Assess movement and cognition, sleep cycle etc. Discuss ongoing nutrition needs. * Due to council laws in some Australian states, desexing before 3 months is required for reduced registration fees, and hence may be requested more commonly than previously. Female cats can come into oestrus by 4 months of age, and many studies have shown no adverse health effects due to early desexing, however your vet will assess the risks to your cat on a case-by-case basis. # As recommended by American Association of Feline Practioners Senior Care Guidelines (2008). Blue: This is the time when your cat is a kitten, a true child! Green: This is when your cat is an adolescent, or young adult. Yellow: This is when your cat is an adult. Orange: This is when your cat is considered a “mature” (or middle-aged) cat. Red: This is the time when your cat is a “senior”. Purple: This is when your cat is considered to be “geriatric” (an old-timer!). 23 Caring for your Domestic Shorthair Checked √ Details Note there can be some overlap in the ages at which your cat moves through the different life stages, just as there is for people. These coloured stages are a guide only. 24 Cat’s Paradise 25 Cat's Paradise Making Your Home a Cat’s Paradise A new cat or kitten in the house is a wonderful time, full of fun and new discoveries for both your feline friend and you. However, there are several essentials that you are going to need, to ensure that your cat settles in to her new indoor home happily and with as little stress as possible. 1. The Litter Box There are a number of types of litter box available, ranging from a basic pan type, up to automatic self-cleaning boxes and litter boxes designed to look like furniture items. Most cats will do fine with your basic plastic pan type of litter box (also known as a litter tray, see Fig 1). Some cats prefer the added privacy of covered litter boxes (see Fig 2), however many will not use these as they feel trapped by them, and they do also require more frequent cleaning, as odours tend to build up within them, which may cause a cat (with her very sensitive sense of smell) to avoid using one altogether. Some cats prefer to stand up to wee, and in this case a litter box with tall sides is needed. This type of litter box may also be preferred with a cat who loves to dig and throw litter all over the place while in the litter box. A tall-sided litter box can easily be made by purchasing a large, smooth-sided storage box (without wheels) and cutting out a doorway in one end. This option also has the advantage of being roomier for your cat to move around in. Be sure to smooth off the edges of the door once you have cut it out – your cat will thank you for having such a spacious, well designed bathroom! (See Fig 5a & 5b). Fig 1. Basic pan-type litter tray Fig 2. Covered litter box Fig 4. Automatic self-cleaning box Fig 5a. Make your own highsided litter box from a storage box – plenty of room, less mess Fig 3. Litter box concealed as furniture Fig 5b. Or you can buy a highsided litter box 26 Cat's Paradise 2. Litter Various types of litter are available, and the type you use will largely depend on your cats’ preference. Avoid scented litters, as these are likely to be unwelcome to you cats very highly developed sense of smell. Also avoid litters that tend to leave dust, as these may lead to respiratory problems. Clumping litters should not be used for young kittens; if they are accidentally ingested they can lead to intestinal blockage and possibly death. Clumping litters may allow waste to be more easily removed from an adult cat’s litter tray, or a quieter and less sharp litter, such as recycled paper pellets, may be preferred. Offer several different types to see what your cat prefers. Cats are creatures of habit, and in general you should stick with one that your cat is happy with. Regardless, the litter box should have waste cleaned from it at least twice a day, and should be completely emptied and thoroughly cleaned at least once a week. Do not use bleach or ammonia containing cleaners on the tray – bicarb soda or a mild detergent will clean the tray and will not leave a smell behind that may put your cat off using the tray in future! Just make sure you clean the tray/s thoroughly and rinse all traces of detergent off them. 3. Food and Water Your cat’s food and water bowls should be located in another “safe” place (quiet and out of high traffic zones) well away from the litter box area. Nobody wants to eat where they poop! Some cats can also be funny about drinking where they eat, so it is a good idea to have several water bowls at various locations around the house. We will discuss food and cat nutrition separately later, but food bowls should be clean for each meal, and water bowls cleaned with a small amount of detergent, rinsed thoroughly and refilled each day. This prevents bacteria from building up on the inside walls of the water bowl and fouling the water. Bowls should be wide enough that a cat can drink freely without her whiskers touching the sides of the bowl. Whiskers are sensory organs, used by cats for navigating in the dark and helping them to orientate and kill their prey with one bite. They are very sensitive to touch, and some cats do not like the feeling of them touching the sides of the bowl, and Fig 6. Ceramic water fountain Fig 7. Stainless steel food bowls 27 Cat's Paradise this may lead them to be reluctant to drink. Plates are sometimes a better option than bowls for feeding. Ensure that bowls are not too big if you have a kitten, so that she can easily reach her food and water, and that if she falls in she can easily get out (of a water bowl). All bowls should be slip resistant and heavy enough that they are hard to tip over. Some cats like to play in their water when drinking, and it is important that they cannot tip over the water bowl when doing so. These cats may do very well with an automatic drinking fountain, as they seem attracted by the constantly moving water, which may encourage them to drink more. Ceramic fountains are also easy to clean and almost all varieties come with filters for removing dust and dropped hair from the water (Fig. 6). The best types of bowls for food and water are heavy ceramic or stainless steel. Stainless steel is an excellent surface and can help keep water cool in summer, but can be prone to tipping over, so ensure it has a well seated, slip resistant base (Fig. 7). Plastic tends to develop microscopic cracks, and these can harbour bacteria, which will resist cleaning. This can lead to a skin condition similar to blackheads on your cats chin. If using plastic ware, ensure that you replace it frequently. A rubber “cat dinner mat” under the bowls also helps prevent bowls moving, and catches any spills. 4. Cat Furniture Scratching is a natural behaviour for cats. It helps them to remove the old outer sheath from their claws, and stretches out their tendons and muscles. Scratching also leaves scent marks, which helps them to mark their territory. You cannot stop a cat from scratching, but by providing her with scratching furniture, you can ensure that she does not tear up your expensive couch or carpet! Some cats prefer to scratch vertically (up a post) while others like to Fig. 8. Cardboard scratching pad scratch horizontally (along the floor). Scratching furniture for cats comes in a large range of styles, and to suit all budgets. At the bottom of the range there are “over the door” hanging mats and cardboard mats for the floor (Fig. 8). These are great if you are limited for space, or on a tight budget. You can even make your own out of old cardboard boxes (see this link for a great ). You have probably seen the traditional scratching post (Fig. 9), which often comes covered in either carpet or sisal rope. Note that woven sisal fabric tends to be a bit more “claw-friendly” than the rope, and I have certainly known plenty of cats that refuse to use their nice new scratching post, simply because they don’t like the sisal rope on it! Fig. 9. Woven Sisal Scratching Post 28 Cat's Paradise There is now a huge variety of cat furniture available that not only caters to the feline need to scratch, but also provides climbing and perching options for your cat, as well as hiding spaces. These are often referred to as cat trees or cat condos, and are the top of the range in cat furniture (Fig. 10). Always ensure any cat furniture has a solid, heavy base and is not easy to tip over. A cat perch, or elevated resting area, is another important piece of cat furniture. Often placed near a window where a cat can look out and watch the world go by, a perch provides the cat with somewhere where she can rest up high, where she will feel safe, and look down on what is going on around her. Of course, a cat tree is not necessary to provide this requirement – a blanket or towel on top of a wardrobe or bookcase works just fine as well! Fig. 10a. Cat tree/condo Cat Perch – with internal hiding areas Fig. 10b. Cat tower Numerous websites advertise cat furniture like those shown above, a popular site in Australia is Funky Cat Feline Furniture – see but a search for cat furniture or scratching posts will turn up plenty of options to look at. A scratching post should be provided for each cat in the house, and is best located in communal/living areas, or in thoroughfares leading to where the cat’s food and litter is located (e.g. in the hall). 29 Cat's Paradise 5. The Bed You will need to decide from the start whether you want your cat or kitten to sleep in your bed or in her own bed. If you are happy to share your bed, that is fine, but just remember that your cute new kitten will go on to be a fully grown cat and will be sharing your bed for possibly 15 or more years. The cat is a notorious bed hog, and many also make excellent alarm clocks, ready with a purr and polite poke to the face if you happen to sleep through breakfast time. If you decide you do not want to share your bed with your cat, you need to provide her with her own bed right from the start. Remember that cats are creatures of habit, and changes in routine can lead to problems with stress and anxiety. Fig. 11. Heated cat bed by Kitty Kat Relax (low level heat; 28°C) You can buy a cat bed, but remember your cat will be just as happy with a warm blanket or fleece in a box. Cats love to be warm and snug, and kittens especially may need an extra source of warmth in their bed at first. Some cat beds come with an inbuilt heating pad (Fig. 11) – ensure that any heating source does not heat above 41°C, as a cat’s skin is much more sensitive to heat damage and burning than ours. Never use a running electric blanket to warm a kitten, as this can lead to nasty burns. If you need to provide a young kitten with heat, a wheat pack can be warmed in the microwave and placed underneath her blankets to provide somewhere warm to curl up to. Otherwise place her bed near a heating vent so that the air around her does not get too cold. 6. The Retreat/Refuge All cats need to have somewhere they can retreat to and feel safe. This should be in a quiet room away from the main traffic areas of the house, where they have a safe and warm resting area. They should also have food, water and litter available in this room, as well as a perch, and children should be taught not to follow cats into the refuge area. Each cat should have her own refuge area to which she can retreat and where she will not be disturbed. 7. Environmental Enrichment Cats do need exercise. Although they spend much of their time sleeping, they do become bored, just as we do, if they have nothing to stimulate them, and exercise is also important for their health and to help avoid obesity. There are a multitude of toys available to entertain cats with, and again, you can make cat toys out of the simplest household items. Cardboard boxes are a favourite with many cats, as are aluminium foil balls, ping pong balls and pipe cleaners or feathers tied to a piece of string and pulled along the floor for them to chase. Some cats prefer “bird-like” toys, for example swatting at airborne toys, while others are happiest with 30 Cat's Paradise “mouse-like” toys that they can chase around on the ground. It is also a good idea to have a variety of toys and to change between different toys periodically for variety. It is important to make time to play with your cat each day, and this will provide you will some good bonding time with your cat as well as good exercise for her. Tunnels, scratching posts and climbing furniture are all great ways for cats to get some exercise whilst having fun, especially in a multi-cat household. However, not all cats will get along and want to play with each other, and if this is the case you will need to spend time with each one individually, giving them their own special “me” time for play and exercise. Tunnels are great to play in and many cats love them There are a wide variety of products now available for cat entertainment when you cannot be at home. DVDs can be purchased that are designed to attract the attention of cats (e.g. swimming fish, ). The choice for today’s cat lover is virtually never ending, and is only limited by your imagination. You may also wish for your cat to be able to experience the great outdoors once in a while. Many companies now provide various types of cat runs, which are designed to let your cat explore the back yard in complete safety (Fig. 12). You can also build your own cat run. With some nylon mesh a balcony, veranda or the side of a yard can easily be enclosed so that your Feathers are popular toys to chase Fig 12. A balcony enclosure by Cat Walk City 31 Cat's Paradise cat is able to explore the outdoors without being able to wander and get into trouble. also installs cat runs and balcony enclosures for renters, which can be dismantled without leaving damage to the property. Any outdoor enclosure should always have a shaded area for your cat to rest in. Cats, just like us, can be affected by sunburn and can also develop skin cancers. This tends to occur where the hair is thinnest, on the nose, eyelids and ears, for example. Again, with cat enclosures, modular cat runs and DIY projects of this type, you are only limited by your imagination. As a student I purchased a cheap aviary shed at a second hand shop, furnished it with tree stumps, a pot of cat grass and a couple of hand-made cat perches, and my cats had a great little shaded outdoor run for less than $200. A DIY cat enclosure at the front of a house using nylon mesh and steel cabling from CatNets.com.au, which the cats access from a window. See lots more cat enclosure ideas at the You can also train a cat to walk on a lead with a harness (Fig. 13). Cats generally will not “go for a walk” as a dog does, but they can go out and explore the outdoors with you this way, and get a bit of extra exercise. Training cats to a harness and lead is generally easiest when done as a kitten. Some cats are just anxious about new things, and don’t cope well with this, however many cats will do great if you take the training slowly. Often the more outgoing breeds take to this training the best (e.g. a Burmese). Like anything with cats, never force them to do something they are not comfortable doing. See the following 32 Cat's Paradise Fig 13. Cat harness and bungee leash Many people associated with cats will recommend that indoor cats have a pot of “cat grass” available. Cat grass generally refers to the common oat, although often wheat or barley is also sold at cat grass. Various theories have been proposed as to why some cats like to eat young grass, but to date there is no scientific validation as to why cats eat grass. It does not appear to be a requirement for their health, but it probably does no harm in small amounts either. Some cats will eat grass and then vomit, so this is something to watch for if you are introducing cat grass into the house. Usually cats will just nibble at the grass from time to time. Catnip is a separate plant, distinct from cat grass, and is an herb from the mint family. The leaves and stem contain nepetalactone, the main active ingredient in catnip essential oil. Catnip produces a “high” in cats that respond to it, and acts via special receptors located in the olfactory epithelium. Hence it acts via the cat’s sense of smell, not by the cat eating it. Not all cats respond to nepetalactone, and it is thought that the response Cat grass Catnip (Nepeta cataria) 33 Cat's Paradise is inherited as a dominant trait in cats. Estimates vary widely, but suggest that 10 – 40% of cats do not respond to the effects of catnip. This is believed to be higher in cats in Australia and Asia, where as many as 60% do not respond to catnip. Kittens also will not respond to catnip until between 3 – 6 months of age, and often show an aversion to catnip when young. Catnip generally induces rubbing and rolling behaviour in cats (for an example, see ), although some may become hyperactive, or become aggressive and growl if approached. Catnip affects a number of wild cat species as well as domestic cats. The effect will usually last around 10 minutes, after which time there will be a period of refractoriness, where the cat will not respond again for 1 - 2 hours. Catnip is not harmful to your cat, and they will not overdose on it – when they have had enough they will leave it alone. You can grow catnip and offer small pieces to your cat once in a while, or you can dry the leaves for use in toys. Many toys for cats now will contain dried catnip, as an added attractant. Catnip is also reported to repel cockroaches and mosquitoes, as well as rats and mice, who supposedly will avoid places where it grows. Picked or dried catnip loses potency over time, and will need to be replaced regularly. A Word about Kittens We have mentioned kittens above, but there is some information that is important to cover specifically if you are bringing home a new kitten. Apart from a warm bed, litter type and feeding, which we will cover in Cat Nutrition, we also need to discuss the differences in kitten behaviour and protecting your kitten from injury. Kittens are very playful, and if they were with their mother and littermates they would play fight a lot, as this is how they learn the skills of hunting. They would also learn something called “bite inhibition” from their littermates and mother, because if they hurt one of their feline family, this other cat would let them know. A littermate would cry out and stop playing with them, and their mother would discipline them if they were too rough with their biting. It is very tempting for us to “play rough” with a small kitten, however as this kitten grows bigger, they can very easily draw blood with their sharp teeth and claws. It is confusing for your kitten if you play rough with her initially, only to yell at her or stop allowing her to play with you as she grows. You should decide early if you wish to allow your kitten to engage in play fighting with you. Alternatives are soft toys provided for her to “attack”. Some people wear gardening gloves so that they are protected from their kitten’s teeth and claws. 34 Cat's Paradise Be aware that play fighting is a normal behaviour for kittens, and some will lie in wait for you and “attack” you from a hiding space. Aggressive posturing is a normal learning phase for kittens, as can be seen in this video ( ). Always remember that kittens are small and easily injured. They are also quick and can have a tendency to get under your feet! If your kitten wants to climb onto higher furniture, provide objects to allow her to get up and down in a stepwise manner, as large jumps may injure her growing joints and bones. Kittens are curious by nature, and learn by exploring and experiencing their world. Do not try to stop a kitten climbing – rather, ensure your kitten has a safe environment to climb and explore in. This is also the time where your kitten will be most open to training for things such as walking on a harness and lead, going in a carry box to “Kitten Kindy”, and learning to have her teeth brushed ( ). All activities should be introduced as fun exercises, and you should never scold your kitten if she is nervous or apprehensive about a new activity – this will just reinforce that it is something unpleasant that she does not want to do. Have patience and use treats, and always give your kitten a safe retreat to go to if she is unsure. A kitten kindergarten is a great place for your kitten to learn social skills, begin training and gain confidence (Fig. 14). This is just as important for cats as it is for dogs. You will also learn how to go about successfully training your kitten. Generally these classes will only run for 2 or 3 weeks, as kittens are only really open to this kind of social activity between around 7 and 14 weeks of age. “Kitten Kindy” is one Australian program designed by veterinary behaviour specialist Dr Kersti Seksel. Contact your local vet or the Australian Small Animal Veterinary Association (ASAVA) to see if there is a Kitten Kindy at a clinic near you. These programs are now very popular in the USA. You can read more about Fig 14. Kittens at kindergarten class 35 Cat Nutrition 36 Cat Nutrition Cat Nutrition The first thing that we must remember is that the cat is a strict carnivore, and so relies upon nutrients found solely in animal tissues to meet her specific nutritional requirements. The cat has evolved eating a diet of mainly small rodents, as well as birds and small lizards, and in her natural desert environment would typically have eaten 8 - 10+ small meals a day. This diet was high in protein, contained a moderate amount of fat, and was low in carbohydrate (see table 1). Table 1. Ideal/Natural Cat Diet (% of calories) Protein Fat Carbohydrates Moisture Calcium Phosphorus Fibre More than 50 30 - 40 < 10 (% of diet, approx.) 60 - 70 1.2 1.0 1.2 More and more specialists in feline internal medicine now recommend feeding cats a diet of canned (moist or wet) cat food, and NOT dry kibble. There are three main reasons why dry food is not considered an appropriate food for cats: 1. The water content is too low (most important!). 2. The carbohydrate content is too high. 3. The type of protein is inappropriate (i.e. plant-based instead of animalbased protein). Without looking at specific brands of canned cat foods, think in terms of the broad principle that ANY canned food is better than ANY dry food. Many cat food companies (and some vets) will tell you that all wet food diets will lead to dental disease and that you must feed dry food to avoid this - in their natural environment this is not how cats clean their teeth! Cats keep their teeth clean mainly by tearing into fresh meat, with a smaller contribution from crunching the bones of the occasional larger kill (Most small kills such as mice are eaten virtually whole). A cat’s saliva is also well designed to keep her teeth clean, if her diet is appropriate for her as a carnivore. Feeding occasional large pieces of cooked meat (without bones) is one way to help keep your cat’s teeth clean. We will cover dental health more later. 37 Cat Nutrition Dogs, being omnivores like us, do require some meat protein in their diet, but they have evolved essentially as scavengers, and are able to utilise nutrients found in plants as well as animals. Cats are very different to dogs. They lack many of the enzymes and metabolic processes within the body that allow dogs to process nutrients from plants. Cats are also unable to make for themselves many of the essential nutrients that dogs can synthesise within their bodies - such as essential amino acids, vitamins, and fatty acids. An example of this is vitamin D - cats cannot convert vitamin D to its active form in the skin with exposure to UV light from the sun, as dogs and people do. They must eat active vitamin D, which is found in animal tissues. Cat Food - What to Feed? So what should we really be feeding our cats? With the widespread use of the internet and the ready access to a wealth of information it provides, the question then arises as to what information is accurate and reliable? There are a vast number of websites claiming to have “expert” opinion on what to feed cats, how to make food for cats, and even how to feed cats a vegan diet! Being an obligate carnivore means that the cat is obligated to eat meat to get the nutrients that she needs to survive and thrive. Be careful of misleading internet sites on this topic, however well-meaning they may be. For a good, detailed discussion on cat nutrition if you would like further information on the topic, please see the articles written by Dr Lisa A. Pierson at www.catinfo.org or speak to your vet. The first question we need to address is commercial food vs. homemade diets. The formulation of a homemade diet that is complete and balanced for the cat is very challenging, for the following reasons: • The cat has very specific and complex nutritional requirements, due to the fact that the cat is unable to make sufficient amounts of many nutrients for herself. • Nutrients, especially vitamins and minerals, need to be present in the correct ratios to one another. • The diet must be palatable (that is, the cat must like the taste of it and want to eat it). • Nutrients such as thiamine can easily be lost by cooking, or by using certain ingredients such as raw fish or “pet mince” - which may contain sulphur dioxide, a preservative that destroys thiamine. • Spoilage and bacterial contamination can easily occur without correct preparation and storage. If you have a strong desire towards home cooking for your cat, Dr Pierson does have some information on this on her website. We will not cover it here, as it generally is too difficult to do well for most cat owners. 38 Cat Nutrition Commercial Cat Foods Commercial cat foods do vary widely in their quality, but with a little care you can obtain a decent range of food that is of good quality and that your cat will enjoy. Cats can become very attached to the flavour of fish, to the exclusion of all other foods. However, many feline nutritionists do not recommend feeding fish to cats. Certainly you should not feed raw fish to cats, as raw fish contains thiaminase, which destroys the essential B vitamin thiamine. Cooking the fish inactivates the thiaminase, but may also destroy the thiamine. Also, fish may contain certain chemicals (called PBDEs) which have possible links to hyperthyroidism in cats. So the basic things that we need to look at in the cat food we buy is the protein level in a food, the type of protein that is present (i.e. to ensure that the protein comes from animal sources, not grain or vegetable) and that it is fully balanced with all the vitamins and minerals that our cat requires. The easiest way to choose a good cat food is to check the ingredient list and pick one that does not contain grains or cereals, contains protein from animal sources such as chicken, turkey or duck (try to avoid fish all the time), preferably does not contain by-products, is a tinned (wet) food and is complete and balanced. Some companies will publish additional information on their website, which can be useful to help you select a good quality food. 39 Cat Nutrition Grain free cat food tins are available in the supermarket if you look. Beware that many may contain fish and/or by-products. By-products are the parts of the animal that are not meat, and may include things like feet, beaks, feathers etc. Hence foods containing animal by-products do not contain proteins with as high a quality as those that do not contain by-products Lastly, always ensure that the food is fully balanced. This will be stated on the label somewhere, and if there is no statement that the food is complete and balanced for the growth and/or maintenance of cats, then you must assume that it is not a complete food for cats, and should only be used occasionally (as an example: Fancy Feast Royale/black label, VIP Fussy Cat Fresh Mince are not a complete and balanced foods for cats). How much should I feed? In Australia good quality canned cat food comes in a variety of sizes, ranging from 85g single serve tins or pouches up to 375g tins or larger. Adult cats require between 150 - 250 kcal per day (kcal is short for kilocalories, commonly referred to simply as calories). An 85g single serve tin of cat food may contain, on average, 60 - 80 kcal. Many companies will publish the calorie content of their foods on their website. Alternatively you can refer to published tables, or contact the company directly for this information. For a list of the nutritional profiles of some Australian tinned cat foods, see the attached table of Canned Cat Foods (Appendix I). Because the amount of food that a cat needs varies depending on the cat’s diet, activity level, age, size and genetic factors, the best way to feed your cat is to feed enough to maintain your cat in an ideal body condition. This means using the above calorie requirements, or the feeding guide provided by the cat food manufacturer as a starting guide, but adjust how much you feed to ensure that your cat is not over or underweight. You can check with your vet if you are unsure how to check this, but your cat should have good muscle coverage over her bony points (head, hips, back etc), with a definite but minimal layer of fat under the skin. The ribs should be easy to feel, but not sticking out. Cats normally would eat many small meals a day. The closer you can replicate a cat’s normal pattern of eating the better, so an adult cat should be fed a minimum of 2 - 3 times a day (More is better if you are able to do so). Always give each meal fresh, do not leave out old food or keep uneaten food to be fed later - it is great for breeding bugs and the food will quickly spoil. 40 Cat Nutrition Kittens and Nutrition While kittens do not specifically require a special diet compared to adult cats (just more of it for their size), kitten food often has a higher quality of protein in it (i.e. less or no grains or vegetables) and hence can sometimes make a better food for cats of all life stages. Kittens have a smaller stomach capacity, and a shorter intestinal length and capacity to process food, and need to be fed more often than adult cats. Start off by feeding a kitten 6 - 8 times a day, and then start to reduce the number of meals after your kitten is around 4 months old. By 1 year of age your kitten can generally be eating an adult number of meals. If your kitten does not eat an entire meal, do not put it in the fridge for later. It should be thrown out and fresh food should be given at the next meal. Bacteria start to breed quickly on food and spoiled food can cause tummy upsets and diarrhoea. Mature Cats It is worth noting that cats have another notable difference from dogs and other animals in that once they get older, they actually require more energy in their diet. This happens from around 8-10 years of age onwards, and occurs for several reasons. Their appetite may also start to wane as they age. It is important as your cat is getting older to be watching for weight loss and signs of reduced appetite, and ensure that your cat has regular health checks with your veterinarian. Older cats may require more frequent meals, and may require further encouragement to eat, such as warming of the food to make it more appealing. In order to ensure she receives enough protein and energy, your vet may even prescribe a specific diet for your cat as she ages. 41 Dental Health 42 Dental Health Dental Health It is important not to neglect the cleanliness of your cat’s teeth and the health of your cat’s mouth. The Veterinary Oral Health Council approves a range of products that have been shown to clinically aid in reducing plaque and/or tartar in cats (and dogs). Available in Australia are Feline Greenies® which are treats that your cat can chew on. Toys for your cat to play with and chew on also help improve the health of her teeth and gums. The Australian Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS) does not recommend the feeding of bones (cooked or raw) to dogs and cats, as they can cause tooth fractures and various digestive problems. It is also recommended by the AVDS that you train your kitten to allow you to brush her teeth. This is not as hard as it sounds, if you get her used to it from a young age. Always ensure that you keep things fun for your cat - take it slow, and keep things positive. Do not overly restrain your cat, and make sure you praise her lots! So the first step is for her to get used to having something put in her mouth. Make sure you keep all sessions short - cats have a fairly short tolerance span, especially to start off. First, you will need a flavour your cat likes. Dip your finger into something like a chicken or tuna mush (made from food and water) or something similar. Call your cat as though you have a treat for her, then let her lick the flavour from your finger. Gently rub the finger over her teeth and gums, initially only for a second or two. A good idea is to start with the canines, as they are easy to reach. She should quickly get used to this and even look forward to it, and you can very gradually extend the time you can rub her teeth until you can rub along both sides of her mouth. 43 Dental Health Once your cat is comfortable with this, and you have been praising her and not pushing her, you are ready for the next step. Place some gauze dipped in the preferred flavour over your finger. Rub the gauze gently over the teeth in a circular motion, again starting off with very short periods, and gradually extending the time taken as your cat will tolerate it. Your cat will now need to get used to the texture of the toothbrush you are going to use. You may choose to use a soft brush, a pad or a dental sponge. All are specifically designed to be used in cats. Some recommend cotton buds, but the cotton bud at the tip can sometimes come off the plastic stick in your cat’s mouth, leading to aversion. A small pad that fits over the finger tip generally works well. Your cat should be allowed to lick something tasty that she likes off the toothbrush until she is completely familiar with the brush to be used. Next she will need to get used to the toothpaste that will be used. This may be a specific gel or rinse designed to reduce plaque and tartar from a cat’s mouth. Flavours available include poultry, malt, beef and seafood. Never use human toothpaste - these contain harsh chemicals and are not designed to be swallowed, and your cat will not appreciate the taste! C.E.T. Enzymatic toothpaste by Virbac Animal Health Once all these steps are completed (and this may take a few months or more) your cat is now ready for some actual tooth brushing. As with all steps, take it slow - start with the canines and work up from there - and keep the sessions short and fun. Never push your cat, and make sure brushing is fun for your cat, with lots of praise. Brushing should generally not take more than around 30 seconds, and can be performed several times a week. 44 Dental Health Logic Oral Hygiene Gel for dogs and cats, with applicators from Cornell University. It is generally recommended to have a check up with your vet before you start brushing your cat’s teeth to ensure that there is no underlying gum to tooth disease. This may be painful and cause your cat to reject all attempts at introducing brushing. It is important to start with a healthy mouth, and have a regular check up with your vet at least once a year. Taking it slow is probably the most important secret to success in brushing your cat’s teeth. If your cat has been doing well with brushing but suddenly starts to resent it, this may indicate that she has pain somewhere in the mouth, and she should see her vet for a check up straight away. Do not keep pushing attempts at brushing if your cat is resentful, as this can lead to lifelong aversion. C.E.T. Oral Hygiene Chews for Cats 45 APPENDIX I 46 APPENDIX I Table of Canned Cat Foods Food Type IDEAL CAT DIET Royal Canin Instinctive 12 in Jelly, Pouches 85g Royal Canin Instinctive 12 in Gravy, Pouches 85g Royal Canin Instinctive 7+ Years, 85 g Pouches Royal Canin Aging +12, 85g Pouches Ziwipeak Daily Cat Cuisine Lamb 170g Ziwipeak Daily Cat Cuisine Venison 170g can Ziwipeak Daily Cat Cuisine Venison & Fish 170g can Advance Adult Tray 100g Advance Kitten Tray 100g Advance Adult Light Formula 100g Tray Hills Science Kitten Liver & Chicken 85g/156g Hills Science Feline Adult Turkey 156g Hills Science Feline Indoor Adult Savoury Chicken 156g Hills Science Feline Light Chicken and Liver 156 g IAMS Kitten Pouches* 100g IAMS Adult Chicken Pouches* 100g Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult Ocean Whitefish & Salmon Entree* 85g % calories coming from Total calories (kcal/kg) Phosphorus (% DMB) Protein (%) Fat (%) Carbohydrates (%) >50 30 – 40 <10 57 38 5 817 1.05 55.5 31.5 13 825 0.98 53 26 21 789 0.95 43 41 16 867 0.12 33 63 4 1113 1.31 35 63 2 1105 1.76 38 58 4 1053 1.36 42 33 54 66 4 1 850 1200 1.25 2.0 44 50 6 750 1.25 40 47 13 1343 0.95 28.6 45.4 26.0 1039 0.73 30.3 48.4 21.3 1076 0.65 34 33 33 884 0.69 35 46 19 810 - 31 46 23 810 - 48* 48* 4 1027 2.13 1.0 47 APPENDIX I Table of Canned Cat Foods (continue) Food Type Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult Chicken & Liver Entree* 85g Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult Chicken & Rice Entree* 85g Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult Tuna Entree* 85g Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult Turkey & Giblets* 85g Purina Pro Plan Cat - Kitten Chicken & Liver Entree* 85g Artemis Turkey 156g** Artemis Cat Salmon 156g* EVO Turkey & Chicken Formula Cat & Kitten 156g or 375g EVO 95% Chicken & Turkey Canned Cat Food 156g or 375g EVO 95% Venison Canned Cat Food 156g or 375g Innova Cat & Kitten Canned Food 85g, 165g, 375g cans Innova Lower Fat Canned Adult Cat Food 85g, 156g, 375g Innova Senior Canned Cat Food 85g, 156g, 375g cans WHISKAS Meat Pouches WHISKAS Casserole Pouches WHISKAS Mince Pouches WHISKAS Kitten Pouches % calories coming from Protein (%) Fat (%) Carbohydrates (%) Total calories (kcal/kg) Phosphorus (% DMB) 44* 53* 3 1139 1.87 46* 38* 16 830 0.95 48* 38* 14 801 1.06 46* 47* 7 936 1.13 40* 57* 3 1136 1.96 29 39 65 52 6 9 1700 810 --- 33 62.7 4.3 1283 1.3 25 72.7 2.3 1350 0.88 30 64.5 5.5 1400 2.1 33.5 58.5 8 1287 1.35 37 44 19 972 1.66 34.5 51.5 14 1226 1.3 36.2 58.6 5.2 800 1.33 33.1 49.2 17.7 800 1.45 39.1 24.6 59.4 61.9 1.5 11.7 800 1000 2.22 2.0 48 APPENDIX I Table of Canned Cat Foods (continue) Food Type DINE Meat 85g DINE Fish 85g Fancy Feast White Label Roast Chicken 85g can Fancy Feast White Label Ocean Whitefish and Tuna 85g can Fancy Feast White Label Ocean Whitefish and Tuna 85g** (US) Fancy Feast White Label Cod, Sole & Shrimp 85g** Fancy Feast White Label Grilled Chicken Feast 85g** Fancy Feast White Label Grilled Beef Feast 85g** Fancy Feast White Label Flaked Chicken and Tuna Feast 85g** Fancy Feast White Label Savoury Salmon Feast 85g** Fancy Feast White Label Kitten - Turkey 85g* Felidae Grain Free Pure Elements 156g Felidae Grain Free Pure Sea 156g AvoDerm Chicken Formula All Life Stages Cat Food* 156g California Natural Chicken & Brown Rice Formula Cat & Kitten 85g, 156g, 375g % calories coming from Protein (%) Fat (%) Carbohydrates (%) Total calories (kcal/kg) Phosphorus (% DMB) 30.8 61.9 65.4 31.6 3.8 6.5 750 800 2.06 3.2 49 30 21 930 -- 49 30 21 960 -- 49 48 3 1020 -- 52 46 2 991 -- 56 26 18 873 -- 55 27 18 885 -- 47 45 8 1161 -- 46 51 3 1020 -- 48 48 4 880 -- 28.3 62.5 9.2 1161 0.91 30.4 61.8 7.8 1165 0.91 36 60 4 1195 -- 28 64 8 1167 1.4 Assumptions: Protein and carbohydrates contain 3.5 kcals per gram, and fat contains 8.5 kcals per gram. 49 APPENDIX I * Indicates values estimated from “guaranteed analysis” (which is much less accurate) after multiple attempts to obtain information from manufacturer were unsuccessful. If a company/manufacturer is not listed at all, this indicates information could not be obtained or was not usable. (Columns with -- indicates information unavailable/ not provided) ** Data obtained from US tables/analysis. (May not be accurate in Australia, as illustrated by Fancy Feast Ocean Whitefish and Tuna variety listed. Some US data may also be out of date/several years old.) NB: Specific Whiskas and Dine varieties not provided by Mars Petcare - information provided as given by Mars Petcare 2013. Disclaimer: The information provided here is based upon information provided by the pet food manufacturer or that published on their website, and no responsibility is taken for its accuracy or otherwise. Where a manufacturer would not provide information other than the “guaranteed analysis” that is part of the minimum labelling requirements for pet food, if sufficient information was available to estimate a carbohydrate fraction from this, then this calculation was performed, however it is acknowledged that this method is highly unreliable due to the inherent unreliability of the information given in a “guaranteed analysis”. This inaccuracy is understood, and this information is only included for comparison where a company would not provide more detailed information after repeated requests, or no contact details could be sourced. This is not intended to be a comprehensive table of all foods available in Australia. Rather, it provides a range of examples from different manufacturers to provide a basic overview of available commercial cat foods. Information provided and assumed correct as of August/September 2012 - March 2013. The coloured numbers in the table refer to values that are significantly higher or lower than what would be wanted in an “ideal” cat diet. Orange numbers are moderately divergent from ideal values, while red values are very significantly different from what would be wanted in an ideal cat diet. Phosphorus content has been highlighted arbitrarily over %2 (on a dry matter basis) to highlight diets that have particularly high levels of phosphorus, which is especially important for older cats. As can be seen from the table above, there are few commercial diets that fit the profile of an “ideal” cat diet (the one that does is highlighted in blue) so some tradeoffs must be made to get a diet that a cat will eat and that gives the best possible profile with respect to the important categories. 50 Special Offer Full Pure Breed DNA Profile $85.00 + postage of DNA kit to your home (normally $90.00) This test will interrogate your cat’s DNA for all genetic diseases and traits (coat colour, long hair gene) relevant to your breed. It will also provide a unique DNA signature profile that can be used to positively identify your cat forensically and/or to confirm parentage. Disease Results are reported as NORMAL, CARRIER or AFFECTED ORDER YOUR TEST HERE Visit www.orivet.com to find out more about how to best care for Your Domestic Shorthair's health and have more fun with her everyday. Tell the world about your cat - Join our online community of great pet owners that really love their pet and share your Domestic Shorthair's Genetic Health Book with your friends. At www.facebook.com.au/animaldnalab. Note: Some pure breeds do not have a genetic test available that can be used to screen for some diseases. For more information on which genetic diseases are included for your breed please contact us. Redemption Coupon Code: ORIVETPERSBOOK 51 About Orivet Our mission Our mission is to safeguard the health and wellbeing of your pet with fully personalised, breed-specific care. Orivet was founded on the premise that each and every pet is unique, with its own set of specific traits, behaviours, genetic health needs and inherent risks. We work with pet owners, breeders and vets to provide completely personalised products and services that treat and care for pets as the unique individuals they are, taking into account each pet’s genetic makeup, age, sex and lifestyle. Through this we aim to encourage the development of a deep, genuine and lasting bond between pets and their owners. Our experience Our laboratory is one of Australia’s leading veterinary pathology facilities providing services to over 1,500 vets around Australia. Our team has more than 150 years of combined veterinary pathology experience and includes veterinary specialist pathologists, animal geneticists and scientists. We offer specialised services in the areas of clinical genetics, haematology, biochemistry, histopathology, endocrinology, PCR testing, microbiology, infectious diseases and point of care testing. How we help you care for your pets Orivet operates in 3 distinct fields: We help veterinary doctors provide pets with customised preventative and protective medicine, looking out for specific genetic health conditions which can lead to early diagnosis and more effective treatment. We work closely with pet animal breeders by promoting responsible breeding. We offer an extensive range of molecular (DNA) tests and services including screening for genetic disease. The main beneficiaries of this strategy are healthier animals for generations to come. We help pet owners learn about their pets’ special nature and needs through the most up-to-date information and tools. Our products and services are designed to provide the highest quality and most relevant nutritional, behavioural and healthcare support for pets. Orivet is committed to eradicating animal cruelty wherever it may be on our planet. Our products are made from all natural ingredients, free from any artificial additives and have not been tested on animals. Orivet.com