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Your
Domestic Shorthair’s
Genetic Health Book
2
Congratulations!
You’re about to discover the story of your cat’s history and genetic
health
Thank you for choosing the OriVet Genetic Health Book to uncover the story of Your Domestic Shorthair’s
genetic health.
Congratulations on taking the steps to learn about your cat’s unique nature and to understand her special
health needs. Knowing your cat’s unique genetic makeup is more than a novelty - it is a medical necessity.
Your cat’s breed is her ancestral genetic signature and carries unique health concerns much the same as
her age, sex and lifestyle. We believe that combining this knowledge enables you to provide a lifetime of
excellent care and live a happier life with your friend.
In this book, you will find detailed information specific to Your Domestic Shorthair's health.
It is important to carefully review your entire report and discuss the results with your veterinarian to gain
the most value out of your cat’s Genetic Health Report. Your vet can help you use your report to help better
care for your cat. The next time you visit your veterinarian, consider taking this book with you and ask for
specific screening that may be available for your cat.
Dr. Noam Pik
Orivet Managing director
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Table of contents
Chapter 1
Domestic Shorthair’s breed description, history, temperament and
behavior, special needs and requirements
Chapter 2
Genetic diseases and inherited disease information specific to Domestic
Shorthair
Chapter 3
Caring for your Domestic Shorthair, a lifetime personalised wellness
program
Chapter 4
Making your home a cat's paradise
Chapter 5
Cat nutrition
Chapter 6
Dental health
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Domestic Shorthair Traits
The DSH can be almost
any colour or coat pattern
The DSH is directly
descended from the
African Wildcat
There is a DSH to fit
almost any household
and any person!
The DSH can vary
enormously in
temperament and
behaviour
Ancestral Genetics
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Ancestral Genetics
History
The domestic shorthair (DSH), also known as the “moggie”, is not a
recognised breed of cat. All domestic cats are of the same species (Felis
catus) and while many breeds have either developed largely on their
own (e.g. in a certain geographic location) or have been developed by
breeders, the domestic shorthair is a “wild-type” cat that is the product of
natural breeding over thousands of years. The name domestic shorthair is
usually applied to any domestic cat with an unknown ancestry.
The domestic cat has been around for thousands of years, and is now
known to have descended from the Wildcat (or Felis silvestris). There
are five subgroups of Wildcat, and recent DNA studies have shown that
all domestic cats today descended from the Near Eastern Wildcat, also
known as the African Wildcat (Felis silvestris lybica). When people first
started settling in established agricultural communities, these cats would
have become useful by keeping rodents away from grain stores. In return,
cats found an easy source of food, and over time gained shelter and
warmth from farmers in return for their mousing and ratting skills. In
this manner, over generations, the Wildcat became domesticated, and
adapted gradually to suit her new environment, wherever that may have
been.
Felis silvestris lybica
(African Wildcat).
Photo by Milan Korinek
General Breed
Description
Domestic cats can and do interbreed with Felis silvestris, and there are
concerns that the true Wildcat will become extinct due to this crossbreeding
in the near future. However, it is also suggested that the domestic cat is
essentially part of the same species, and you may also see the domestic
cat labelled as Felis silvestris catus, indicating that it is a subspecies of the
Wildcat.
The domestic shorthair is very similar in appearance to the African
Wildcat and archaeological studies have found it difficult to
distinguish the two based on their skeletons alone. The domestic
shorthair is slightly smaller on average than the African Wildcat, and
varies also in coat colour and temperament.
The domestic shorthair is in general a fairly “average” type of
cat. She does not display extremes in conformation and is a well
proportioned cat. The coat is short, and can come in almost any
colour or pattern imaginable. Eye colour can also be any
colour, including odd-eyed. The domestic shorthair is
usually of an “average” size, weighing 6 - 4 kg. Males
are generally bigger than females.
An adult domestic longhair
Domestic shorthairs do vary somewhat in their
appearance in different geographical areas. For instance,
those from colder European areas tend to be somewhat
stocky with a thicker coat, while those in hotter climates
such as South East Asia tend to be slimmer and have
thinner coats.
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Ancestral Genetics
Breed
Temperament
and Behaviour
Just as the appearance of the domestic shorthair may vary widely,
so too may her temperament. Almost all will be playful as kittens,
however it can be very difficult to predict the temperament of an
adult cat. She may be outgoing or reserved, vocal or quiet, playful
or restrained. This does mean that amongst the domestic shorthairs,
there is bound to be one that is just perfect for you!
Temperament is also greatly influenced by a kitten’s early socialisation
and care. Spending lots of time with your kitten bonding will help
her to be a more confident, settled individual as an adult.
Requirements
and Needs
The needs of the domestic shorthair are similar to those of all
cats, in that they require a caring and protective environment and
someone who is prepared to spend plenty of time with them. While
they do not require much grooming, it is a good habit to get into
from a young age, and as well as removing dead hairs grooming
also helps to stimulate blood flow in the skin. A weekly comb is
generally sufficient for the domestic shorthair, although more may
be required for some during shedding season.
Best Suited to
As there is so much variety to be found amongst the domestic
shorthairs, there is one to suit almost any situation, whether it is
a large family environment or a single person looking for a loving
companion.
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Genetic Disease
The list of diseases below was generated by reviewing the latest scientific literature. It
does not mean your pet will ever actually contract any of these diseases.
Please Note
The diseases listed are showing INCREASED RISK ONLY and are a result of calculations
comparing your cat›s details to studies published in the world literature on genetic risk
associated with this breed. This offers an opportunity to be on the lookout for these
conditions, diagnose them early, treat more effectively and in some cases even prevent
them.
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Genetic Disease
Most Common
and/or Most
Severe BreedPredisposed
Conditions
These are amongst the most common diseases and conditions seen
in the domestic cat, or are conditions that have the most serious
impact on the health and welfare of Felis catus. It does not cover all
the diseases that she may be prone to. These are not breed-associated
conditions as such, as the domestic shorthair is not a recognised
breed of cat.
1. Chronic Kidney Disease
Chronic kidney disease (CKD) is not a single disease, but more
the end result of a number of different disease processes, and
is one of the leading causes of illness and death in older cats. It
is defined as kidney disease that has been present for months
to years, and there are many potential causes of CKD. Often by
the time a cat is showing signs of kidney disease, the cause
may be unknown.
By the time a cat is showing clinical signs of CKD she has already
lost at least 75% of the functional capacity of her kidneys. This
means 75% of the filtering units within the kidneys (called
nephrons) no longer work at all. The remaining nephrons are
working as hard as they can, but they can no longer keep up
with the demands placed on them for the filtration of toxins
from the body, maintaining electrolyte balance, and conserving
water. Eventually they will fail too.
The more common signs of chronic kidney disease may include
excessive drinking (polydypsia) and excessive urination (polyuria),
poor appetite and weight loss, vomiting +/- diarrhoea, lack of
energy and less inclination to play or exercise. Cats with CKD may
become anaemic due to a lack of erythropoietin (EPO) production
by the kidneys, may become weak due to low potassium levels,
may have high blood pressure (hypertension) due to sodium
retention, and may deposit calcium in their tissues (abnormal
mineralisation) due to retention of phosphorus. Abnormal
phosphorus levels can also lead to weakening of bones and
sometimes can lead to pathologic bone fractures. Hypertension
can cause sudden blindness, as well as damage to organs such as
the heart, brain and further damage to the kidneys. The build up
of toxins that are normally excreted by the kidneys (such as urea
and creatinine) can lead to a state of acidosis and the formation
of ulcers in the mouth and other parts of the gastrointestinal
tract. Platelets may not function properly and bleeding into the
stomach or under the skin can occur.
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Genetic Disease
A bag of intravenous fluids,
which may be used for
rehydration therapy
Screening for chronic
kidney disease:
1. From age of 7 years
annual test for proteinuria
and urine specific gravity
(note USG does not affect
HESKA® MA test, but
can affect urine dipstick
results) Consider urine
protein/creatinine ratio.
Treatment of CKD usually involves dietary modification to restrict
protein and phosphorus intake. There is controversy over the
restriction of protein in the diet of the feline CKD patient, as
these cats often suffer from quite marked muscle wasting.
Studies have not shown any benefit in terms of survival time
by restricting protein levels in the cat with CKD. However, when
phosphorus is restricted as well, survival time in one study more
than doubled. It is generally thought that the focus should be on
high quality (i.e. very digestible) protein content, so that there
is less metabolic waste produced for the kidneys to have to
deal with, as well as focussing strongly on phosphorus control.
Phosphate binders should be given if phosphorus levels are not
controlled with diet alone.
Your vet will also address any other secondary concerns such
as low potassium levels, high blood pressure and anaemia.
Dehydration can be a major problem in the CKD patient, especially
if vomiting is occurring or the cat is not able to drink enough
to stay well hydrated. Often fluids will be given under the skin
periodically, and your vet can show you how to do this at home,
to minimise the stress caused to your cat by numerous visits to
the vet. Rehydration helps the cat to feel better within herself,
meaning she is more likely to eat. Medication can also help to
reduce nausea.
Chronic kidney disease cannot be cured. All treatments,
including kidney transplants, are aimed at controlling the various
abnormalities associated with CKD in order to provide the patient
with a good quality of life for as long as possible. Ultimately
quality of life becomes affected to the point where euthanasia
will be required.
2. Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD)
Feline lower urinary tract disease (or FLUTD) is a term that
covers a number of conditions of the lower urinary tract of the
cat, rather than being one specific disease. These conditions all
result in similar clinical signs, hence are covered by the name
FLUTD. Cats with FLUTD usually present with one or more of the
following clinical signs:
• Difficult or painful urination (known as dysuria). This may
cause straining to urinate, and cats may cry when urinating.
• Frequent urination (known as pollakiuria). Irritation leads to
frequent attempts to pass urine, even if the bladder is not full.
• Blood in the urine (known as haematuria).
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Genetic Disease
• Changes in behaviour. These may include urinating outside
the litter box and urinating in inappropriate places (also
called periuria). This can occur because of the frequent urge
to urinate, with your cat not having enough time to reach
the litter box. Cats may also become irritated, withdrawn
and may groom the area around the perineum excessively
due to pain and irritation.
• Inability to pass urine (anuria). Total inability to pass urine
can occur due to physiological or physical obstruction (i.e.
a blockage). This usually occurs in male cats, and should
be treated as an immediate medical emergency. A cat that
cannot pass urine will develop electrolyte imbalances, acute
kidney failure and can fall into a coma and die in a very
short time frame (i.e. 24-48 hours). The earlier treatment is
started, the better the chances for survival.
There are a number of different causes of FLUTD in cats, but the
most common is idiopathic cystitis, which is responsible for 60-70%
of all cases of FLUTD. Idiopathic cystitis means inflammation of
the bladder with no identifiable cause. It is similar to a condition
in humans called “interstitial cystitis”, and stress is believed to
play a major role in its development.
Other causes of FLUTD include bladder stones (called urolithiasis),
which accounts for around 10-15% of cases of FLUTD, obstruction
of the urinary tract with urethral plugs (which may be associated
with idiopathic cystitis or with crystals in the urine and associated
bladder inflammation), bacterial infection of the bladder, which
is uncommon and usually seen in older cats (and is thought
to represent <10% of all cases of FLUTD), anatomical defects
and scarring of the urinary tract (rare), and cancer (also quite
uncommon and usually seen in older cats).
It is important that a urinalysis is performed on any cat showing
signs of FLUTD, to avoid treating for the wrong underlying cause.
Recurring cases should have a full diagnostic work up, including
imaging studies to rule out urolithiasis (stones). In cases of
idiopathic cystitis, the main aim of treatment is to prevent
recurrence and relieve symptoms. There is rarely a justification
to withhold pain relief from any cat with FLUTD. In the longer
term, stress reduction and increasing fluid intake are important
management steps.
Struvite stone within the urinary
bladder of a cat
Antibiotics are not indicated for FLUTD unless bacterial infection is
present and a urine culture and sensitivity test has been carried
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Genetic Disease
out at a lab to ensure that the correct antibiotic is being used.
Urinary acidifiers are not currently recommended for cases of
FLUTD with struvite crystals, as over-acidification of the urine
can lead to problems with calcium oxalate crystals (or stones) as
well as a metabolic acidosis. An appropriate feline diet should
create mildly acidic urine anyway, which should control struvite
crystalluria. Bladder stones may need to be removed surgically.
Screening for FLUTD:
There is no screening test
as there can be a number
of different causes.
Crystalluria can be a
normal finding in the cat.
The measures best employed to avoid or reduce the frequency
of FLUTD are to feed a good quality, meat-based wet food
diet, to provide plenty of fresh water, and to keep stress in the
environment as low as possible. This is discussed in more detail
in the following chapters.
3. Hyperthyroidism
Hyperthyroidism is a common disease of cats where there is
an overproduction of thyroid hormone. There are two thyroid
glands, one on each side of the neck. In most cases (more
than 70%) hyperthyroidism occurs due to a benign disease of
the thyroid glands called “nodular hyperplasia”, the underlying
cause of which is not fully understood. Some cases are due to a
benign tumour called a thyroid adenoma, which generally affects
just one thyroid gland, not both. Rarely, hyperthyroidism may
be due to a malignant tumour of the thyroid, called a thyroid
adenocarcinoma.
Hyperthyroidism affects almost all organs in the body, and so can
have quite a wide variety of clinical signs. The most commonly
seen include: weight loss despite a normal or often increased
appetite, increased thirst, restlessness or irritability, an increased
heart rate, and often a poor coat. Sometimes vomiting and/or
diarrhoea are seen, and occasionally cats may become depressed
and develop a poor appetite.
Hyperthyroidism is diagnosed by your veterinarian, usually by
measuring the level of thyroid hormone (T4) in the blood. A full
blood screen and urine test is carried out to screen for other
illness that can be present either at the same time as, or as a
consequence of the hyperthyroidism. Because hyperthyroidism is
generally a disease of middle aged to older cats, other diseases
such as chronic kidney disease (CKD) may also be present. In fact,
the hyperthyroidism can mask the signs of CKD. Heart disease
can result from hyperthyroidism, because it causes persistently
high heart rates and increased force of contraction of the heart.
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Genetic Disease
Sometimes liver enzymes are also increased. Hypertension
(high blood pressure) is another common consequence of
hyperthyroidism, and can lead to further damage to organs such
as the eyes, kidneys, brain and heart.
There are three main classes of treatment for hyperthyroidism
and treatment of secondary diseases such as heart disease
or hypertension may also be required initially. The treatment
of choice in most cases is radioactive iodine. This involves a
hospital stay of around a week in a specialised facility, where
an affected cat is given an injection of radioactive iodine. This
iodine accumulates in the abnormal thyroid tissue which is
producing the excess thyroid hormone, and the radioactivity
kills the abnormal cells. The cat stays in hospital while the
radioactive material is excreted from the body. This procedure
has a 95% success rate, with few side effects and in most cases
a cure is obtained.
Another treatment option is medical management with antithyroid medications, such as carbimazole tablets or methimazole
transdermal cream. This medication is required twice daily for
life, and blocks the production of thyroid hormone, thereby
controlling the levels of thyroid hormone. It is relatively cheap,
and usually associated with few side effects. Some cats may
experience transient vomiting and inappetance, although this
is usually less so with carbimazole than methimazole tablets,
and also occurs less with transdermal creams, which are usually
applied to the inside of the ear, and are very well tolerated.
Less commonly performed now than in the past is surgical
resection of the abnormal thyroid tissue. This may be the
preferred option for a malignant tumour however, so nuclear
scanning at a specialist facility may be a good idea if you want
to rule out this form of hyperthyroidism. Malignant tumours
occur in 1-3% of feline hyperthyroid cases. Surgical removal of
abnormal thyroid tissue does provide a cure; however there are
risks with anaesthetising hyperthyroid cats, especially if some
degree of heart disease is present. There is also a major risk of
damage to the parathyroid glands, which sit next to or within
the thyroid glands, and are responsible for the regulation of
calcium levels in the blood. Low calcium levels post-operatively
can cause seizures. The risk of this occurring is not as high with
disease in only one thyroid gland (i.e. surgery to one side of
the neck only).
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Genetic Disease
Screening for
hyperthyroidism:
1. Thorough history,
examination and
weigh at every
regular recommended
examination from 7 years
of age, including neck
palpation.
2. Consider T4 if
any concern re:
hyperthyroidism.
A new treatment is currently being promoted in the form of a
diet low in iodine, with the idea that low iodine levels in the diet
will prevent thyroid hormone from being formed. There is some
controversy regarding this approach, as some have postulated
than chronic low iodine in the feline diet may be a contributing
factor to the development of hyperthyroidism as a disease. Also
a chronic low iodine state may have other deleterious health
effects on the body. This approach is currently recommended
by many feline practitioners as a last resort option only.
4. Chronic Bronchial Disease (Feline Asthma)
Chronic bronchial disease in cats has similarities to chronic bronchitis
of humans and to human asthma. It is also sometimes called
feline asthma. In humans, chronic bronchitis and asthma are
two different diseases. Asthma is a condition where the airways
suddenly become severely narrowed, usually due to reaction
to an irritant or allergen. This can cause sudden and severe
breathing difficulties, and may be rapidly fatal. Chronic bronchitis
is caused by irritants being breathed in, causing inflammation of
the airways and an increase in mucous production. Eventually
this inflammation can permanently damage and narrow the
airways. The most common cause of this in humans is smoking.
The signs of chronic bronchial disease in cats may include one
or all of: rapid or laboured breathing, coughing, wheezing,
panting or open-mouth breathing, lethargy, exercise intolerance
and occasionally sudden onset of severe difficulty in breathing
with gasping and wheezing (similar to an asthma attack in
people). Any difficulty breathing requires emergency treatment
in a veterinary hospital, and is usually responsive to oxygen,
bronchodilators and antiinflammatories.
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An AeroKat® spacer used to
deliver inhaler medication to
cats
Screening for chronic
bronchial disease:
None available at this
time.
Chronic bronchial disease is diagnosed by ruling out other
causes of breathing problems, and usually involves blood tests,
x-rays, scoping of the airways, and a bronchiolar lavage (sterile
saline flushed into the airways then removed for examination).
Treatment is generally life-long and involves using an inhaler
system to deliver antiinflammatories +/- bronchodilators into
the lungs. This is generally well tolerated by cats, and avoids
the side effects associated with using long term systemic (e.g.
tablets) antiinflammatory therapy.
Chronic bronchial disease is a common disease of cats. The
causes are not well understood, but are probably similar to those
associated with chronic bronchitis and asthma in humans. Signs
may be fairly constant or may come and go, and they may vary
in their severity between individuals. Cats of any age, breed and
sex may be affected by chronic bronchial disease, but it is most
commonly seen in cats aged 2-6 years old (mean age of 4). There
is a marked predisposition in Siamese and related breeds, which
may be due to a genetic influence. Certainly a genetic factor is
believed to be involved in human asthma. Siamese also may
be prone to develop more serious signs when they have the
disease (as compared to other breeds) and also to develop the
condition at a younger age.
5. Osteoarthritis
Traditionally, osteoarthritis (which is commonly just called arthritis)
has been somewhat under-diagnosed in cats. This may be partly
because cats show signs of arthritis differently to dogs, and it is
not always obvious to owners. However, it has been estimated
that 70-90% of older cats have signs of arthritis on x-ray, while
up to a third of all cats show clinical signs of arthritis.
Arthritis may be seen in all breeds of cat, while those predisposed
to hip dysplasia and patellar luxation may have a higher risk
of developing arthritis secondary to these conditions. Arthritis
results in pain in affected joints, and generally a restricted range
of movement in the joint/s. Cats with osteoarthritis will often
show an increased tendency to sleep, and a reduction in activity.
They may also lose weight. Often owners will assume this is just
associated with “getting old”. Cats also tend to be reluctant to
jump, and may also be less willing to climb in and out of the
litter tray, and so appear to lose their litter box training.
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Where the arthritis is associated with the hip joints, there may
be obvious muscle wasting over the pelvic area and in the hind
limbs, and the cat may have an obvious limp. The hip area may
be painful to touch, and an affected cat may resent patting of
the area. This may also be true with arthritis of the spine, with
owners thinking that their older cat is getting “grumpy” in her
old age. Arthritis associated with the elbows may cause the cat
to walk with the elbows held out from the chest somewhat. A
cat may be less willing to jump down than she is to jump up
with pain in the front legs.
Screening for
osteoarthritis:
None available.
(Note that screening for
predisposing conditions
such as hip or elbow
dysplasia is available).
Your vet will diagnose arthritis by examining and manipulating
the joints, and by taking x-rays to rule out any other causes
of pain (e.g. trauma, tumours etc). Treatment often involves
medication with joint supplements and an antiinflammatory
that is safe for long term use in cats, provided blood tests show
no other underlying disease. It will also be necessary to adjust
the home environment to make it easier for your cat to move
around easily, such as ensuring that food, water and bedding is
low and accessible, that ramps are installed where needed for
your cat to access her safe places and furniture, and that litter
is easy to access (e.g. provide a low sided litter box, or a ramp
to litter box). With severe hip dysplasia, surgical treatment may
provide the best option for pain relief and restoration of normal
movement.
6. Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy (HCM)
Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM) is the most common heart
condition in cats, with familial (inherited) forms of the disease
having been recognised in a number of breeds. The disease in
cats is similar to the disease in humans, where more than 120
mutations located on 12 different genes have been shown to
be able to cause HCM.
HCM causes abnormal thickening of the heart muscle, and this
means that the heart cannot function properly. Blood tends to
become “backed up” in the atrium and in the veins of the lungs.
Eventually this increased blood in the lungs leads to leakage
of fluid into the air spaces, which is called pulmonary oedema.
When this happens, the cat has congestive heart failure. As
well as congestive heart failure, HCM can lead to arrhythmias
(abnormal heart rhythms) and sometimes this can cause
sudden death without any prior clinical signs of heart disease
being seen. Another uncommon complication of HCM is aortic
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thromboembolism, where a blood clot forms in the enlarged left
atrium and at some point is ejected from the heart and lodges
in the aorta - commonly where it narrows and branches to go
to the hindlimbs. This leads to a lack of blood flow to the hind
legs, and causes paralysis and is very painful. Clots may less
commonly lodge elsewhere, such as in the lungs or brain.
Screening for
hypertrophic
cardiomyopathy:
1. Heart examination
including careful
auscultation every year
from 1 year of age
2. Echocardiography
at 1 year of age and
recommend yearly
for breeding animals.
Perform on any cat with
abnormal auscultation
findings. Consider regular
screening echocardiogram
on any cat if owner
concerned.
HCM can occur at any age, although is more often seen in middle
aged cats. Diagnosis of HCM is based on a cardiac ultrasound
(echocardiogram), and should generally be performed by a
specialist.
There is no cure for HCM, although if thickening of the heart
muscle is secondary to another disease, such as hyperthyroidism,
treatment of the primary condition may resolve the cardiac
condition. Treatment of HCM aims to manage signs of congestive
heart failure, and reduce the abnormality of muscle relaxation
as much as possible. Recent studies have shown that calcium
channel blockers (e.g. diltiazem) have shown good results at
improving heart function and blood flow around the body. Drugs
to control arrhythmias are given if needed. Therapy is often
given to try to prevent blood clots from forming in the heart
(e.g. aspirin), although studies have shown that this treatment
is not all that effective, and will not get rid of clots that have
already formed. This treatment must be monitored carefully, as
it can also lead to an increased risk of bleeding.
7. Feline Diabetes Mellitus
Diabetes mellitus is a complex disease that occurs when the body
does not produce enough insulin, and/or does not respond to
insulin properly. Insulin is a hormone that controls the movement
of glucose from the blood into cells, where it is used for energy.
By far the most common type of diabetes in cats (called feline
diabetes mellitus) is a form that is very similar to type 2 diabetes
mellitus of humans. Amyloid is deposited in the beta cells of the
pancreas, which produce insulin. Over time this process leads to
the progressive loss of these insulin-producing cells. This is quite
different to the type of diabetes mellitus that is seen in dogs.
Feline diabetes mellitus is thought to have a genetic component,
and does show certain breed dispositions. The Burmese cat is
affected most commonly, except Burmese cats in the USA. (About
1 in every 50 Burmese cats in Australia is affected, compared
to 1 in every 200 domestic cats). The disease most commonly
affects middle aged, overweight cats, and affected cats have
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a genetic predisposition to insulin resistance. Environmental
factors such as being overweight, activity levels, and diet also
affect whether or not a predisposed individual will go on to
develop diabetes.
A cat with diabetes has persistently high levels of glucose in the
blood, which then leads to glucose being excreted in the urine.
This causes an increase in the amount of urine produced, and so
a cat will drink more to compensate. Often a cat will eat more,
although she will be losing weight because she cannot use the
food she eats for energy very efficiently. Instead of being able
to use glucose from normal metabolism for energy (i.e. proteins
in her food) the body will break down fat as an alternate energy
source, and this causes an increase in acids in the body.
Insulin and syringe
Screening for feline
diabetes mellitus:
1. Fructosamine levels
annually from 4-5 years
of age.
2. Glucose intolerance
or insulin resistance will
be seen prior to clinical
signs of hyperglycaemia
- consider glucose
tolerance test if required.
Sometimes a cat may develop ketoacidosis, a very serious
condition where she will become lethargic, dehydrated and
will not eat, will be vomiting, and if not treated quickly and
intensively, may die.
Other complications of feline diabetes mellitus that may develop
include urinary tract infections, and less commonly peripheral
neuropathy (weakness or paralysis of the hind legs - sometimes
this is painful and sometimes the cat cannot feel anything in the
hind feet), and retinopathy (changes in the retina at the back
of the eye leading to loss of vision).
Some cats can be managed with diet change and oral hypoglycaemic
drugs; however 50 - 75% of cats with diabetes will require insulin
injections. This is an injection under the skin, and does not hurt
the cat. Weight loss is an important part of treatment, because
once a cat has lost excess weight, she may not require insulin
treatment any more. This is called remission, and around a third
of all diabetic cats will develop remission (i.e. no longer need
insulin) within 1 - 4 months of starting treatment for diabetes
mellitus. Prevention in a predisposed cat (which includes any
relative of an affected cat) includes feeding a high protein, low
carbohydrate diet, ensuring she maintains a healthy weight,
and ensuring that she maintains an active lifestyle.
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8. Inherited Deafness
Inherited deafness is most commonly seen in white cats with
two blue eyes. It is less commonly seen in white cats with
one blue eye, and even less commonly in white cats with no
blue eyes (i.e. with two non-blue coloured eyes). Deafness is
thought to occur due to a lack of pigmented cells within the
inner ear, which appear to be vital for maintaining the blood
supply to the sensory hair cells of the cochlear. Deafness is not
present from birth, but is lost at around 3-4 weeks of age. Hence
hearing testing on white cats should be carried out at around
6-8 weeks of age.
A deaf cat
Screening for inherited
deafness:
1. Routine hearing tests in
all white kittens from 6-8
weeks
2. BAER testing
recommended at 6-8
weeks of age as only
reliable way to detect
unilateral deafness.
In a large study of mixed-breed white cats, 50% of cats in the
study were affected by inherited deafness to some degree (i.e.
were deaf in one or both ears). In cats with two blue eyes,
85% were affected by deafness, while cats with one blue eye
suffered deafness in 40% of cases. White cats with no blue eyes
showed deafness only 17% of the time. It has also been found
that the only reliable way to diagnose unilateral deafness (that
is, deafness in one ear only) is by specialised testing known as
the brain stem auditory evoked response (BAER). This testing
involves putting electrodes over the kittens head, and measuring
the brain waves occurring in response to a noise that is introduced
into the ear canal.
Deaf kittens may fail to wake up in response to a loud noise,
or may fail to react to the source of a sound. These kittens rely
on their littermates for visual cues, and may cry loudly when
separated from their littermates. They may also be rougher
than usual with their littermates, as they cannot hear them
cry, which would be the usual signal that they are hurt and it is
time to stop rough play. A deaf cat from an at risk breed should
be assumed to have hereditary deafness unless very strong
evidence exists for an acquired form (e.g. known exposure to an
ototoxin). Even then, it may be prudent to desex a deaf animal
to prevent inherited deafness from possibly being passed on.
A deaf cat can make a good indoor pet, but should not be allowed
outside, as she will be at high risk of injury due to vehicles or
dogs that she cannot hear coming. People in her house, especially
children, should be taught not to startle her.
19
Other Conditions
Which Are Less
Common or Less
Devastating In the
Breed
These conditions are also seen with a higher than usual incidence in
the domestic shorthair. These conditions may not be as common as
those covered in more detail above, or may have less of an impact on
the cat’s health and welfare when they occur. This is not a complete
list of every disease that the domestic shorthair may experience.
Upper respiratory tract infection (“Cat flu”)
Lymphoma
Megacolon
Eosinophilic granuloma complex
Anxiety and behaviour related disorders
Feline infectious peritonitis (FIP)
Squamous cell carcinoma (SCC)
Feline acne
Geriatric dementia
Food intolerance and allergies
Hepatic lipidosis
Pancreatitis and triaditis
Pleural effusion
Atopy
Feline immunodeficiency virus (FIV)
Feline leukaemia virus (FeLV)
20
Caring For Your
Domestic Shorthair
21
Caring for your
Domestic Shorthair
Caring for your
Domestic Shorthair
So, now you know a little bit more about your breed of cat!
Cats are wonderful companions, as any cat owner knows. There is
nothing quite like the comfort of a purring cat curled up on your
lap. Cats certainly are individuals, each with their own personality
and quirks that we, as their carers, must accommodate. All cats are
creatures of habit, and thrive on routine and familiarity. We need to
avoid upsetting the routine of our feline friends as much as possible,
or run the risk of any one of a multitude of stress and anxiety related
problems and illnesses.
In this guide we will outline some of the basic information that
will help you provide your cat with the care they require for a long,
happy and healthy life. We will focus on the very specific nutritional
needs of the cat, and we will also look in particular on the care and
requirements of the indoor cat. Responsible pet ownership means
that we must ensure that our cat is not just regularly fed, but that
she is safe, happy, healthy and protected from harm at all times.
Contrary to some commonly held beliefs, cats do not need to roam
to be happy. Indeed, a cat spends around 18 hours a day sleeping,
and is perfectly happy living an indoor life, especially if raised this
way from kitten hood. Studies have shown that the average lifespan
of an indoor cat is over 12 years, while that of an outdoor cat is less
than 5 years.
Outdoor cats are exposed to many risks, including traffic, dogs, the risk
of injury from other cats, the risk of exposure to infectious diseases
(such as FIV), as well as the risk from poisons (whether intentional
or not), snakebite and malicious injury from humans. Less than 5%
of cats that end up in shelters return to their homes, and less than
30% will be rehomed with another family. Almost all animal health
professionals and animal welfare experts agree that cats should be
housed indoors, due to the much greater health and welfare benefits.
For further information on responsible pet ownership,
. An
indoor cat can still explore the outdoors, either with the provision
of a cat run, or by training to use a harness and lead. This will be
covered in more detail later.
Healthy Cat Plan
We have looked at some of the more common and/or severe diseases
that your breed of cat may be prone to, and we will also look at how
you and your vet can plan together a preventative health initiative
to reduce the risks of your cat developing any of these illnesses, or
if she does to ensure that it is detected as early as possible, so that
it can be treated early with as little impact on your cat’s quality of
life as possible. Remember, just because these diseases are more
common in your breed does not mean she will necessarily go on to
develop any of them, it is just an increase in risk.
22
Caring for your
Domestic Shorthair
Recommended schedule
for taking your Domestic Shorthair to see your vet
AGE
What The Vet Does
Diseases Tested For
Other Things Done At This Visit
6-9 weeks
Full examination.
First vaccination for core
feline vaccines.
Check and treat parasites.
Kitten eye exam.
Check for heart murmurs.
Hearing test in white kittens.
12-13 weeks
Full examination.
Revaccinate all kittens every
3-4 weeks until 16 weeks of
age.
Full examination.
Final kitten vaccination
should occur at minimum age
of 16 weeks.
Ensure parasite control plan
in place.
Recheck eyes.
Check for heart murmurs.
Full examination.
Desexing is undertaken at
some time up to 6 months of
age.*
Annual full examination.
1st booster vaccination for
core vaccines.
Discuss non-core vaccine
requirement with your vet
(e.g. FIV).
Annual full examination.
Core vaccines recommended
to be given no more than
every 3 years (your vet will
discuss your cat’s individual
needs).
Annual full mature cat
examination.
Continue with individualised
vaccination plan as discussed
with your vet.
Examine teeth, joints etc fully whilst under
GA.
Weigh, assess body condition
and growth rate.
Discuss nutrition and kitten
care.
Discuss kitten kindy classes.
Weigh, assess body condition
and growth rate.
Kitten classes held between
12-14 weeks.
Weigh, assess body condition
and growth rate.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
If required prepare for
desexing - e.g. blood tests,
DNA testing, blood typing,
retroviral testing.
Weigh, assess body condition
and growth rate.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
Weigh, assess body condition.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
10-15 years
Full senior cat examination
every 6 months.
Add to minimum data base T4 and BP,
continue annually. #
Check heart.
Nutritional assessment.
15+ years
Full geriatric cat examination
every 6 months.
Continue minimum data base annually. #
Check heart.
Nutritional assessment.
16-17 weeks
12-26 weeks*
1 year
2-7 years
7-10 years
Recheck eyes.
Check for heart murmurs - fully investigate
any murmur present.
Eye check, heart check (consider echo if
concerned)
Consider retinal check - for hypertension.
Check heart (consider echo if concerned).
Consider minimum database collection (as
below) from 4-5 yrs.
Weigh, assess body condition.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
Consider retinal check - for hypertension.
Check heart.
Minimum data base collection annually CBC, Biochem panel, UA, faecal +/- T4, BP.#
Weigh, assess body condition,
muscle score.
Assess movement and
cognition.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
Weigh, assess body condition,
muscle score.
Assess movement and
cognition.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
Weigh, assess body condition,
muscle score.
Assess movement and
cognition, sleep cycle etc.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
* Due to council laws in some Australian states, desexing before 3 months is required for reduced registration
fees, and hence may be requested more commonly than previously. Female cats can come into oestrus by
4 months of age, and many studies have shown no adverse health effects due to early desexing, however
your vet will assess the risks to your cat on a case-by-case basis.
# As recommended by American Association of Feline Practioners Senior Care Guidelines (2008).
Blue: This is the time when your cat is a kitten, a true child!
Green: This is when your cat is an adolescent, or young adult.
Yellow: This is when your cat is an adult.
Orange: This is when your cat is considered a “mature” (or middle-aged) cat.
Red: This is the time when your cat is a “senior”.
Purple: This is when your cat is considered to be “geriatric” (an old-timer!).
23
Caring for your
Domestic Shorthair
Checked
√ Details
Note there can be some overlap in the ages at which your cat moves through the different life stages, just as there is for people. These coloured stages are a guide only.
24
Cat’s Paradise
25
Cat's Paradise
Making Your Home
a Cat’s Paradise
A new cat or kitten in the house is a wonderful time, full of fun and new
discoveries for both your feline friend and you. However, there are several
essentials that you are going to need, to ensure that your cat settles in to
her new indoor home happily and with as little stress as possible.
1. The Litter Box
There are a number of types of litter box available, ranging from a basic
pan type, up to automatic self-cleaning boxes and litter boxes designed
to look like furniture items. Most cats will do fine with your basic plastic
pan type of litter box (also known as a litter tray, see Fig 1). Some cats
prefer the added privacy of covered litter boxes (see Fig 2), however many
will not use these as they feel trapped by them, and they do also require
more frequent cleaning, as odours tend to build up within them, which
may cause a cat (with her very sensitive sense of smell) to avoid using one
altogether. Some cats prefer to stand up to wee, and in this case a litter
box with tall sides is needed. This type of litter box may also be preferred
with a cat who loves to dig and throw litter all over the place while in the
litter box. A tall-sided litter box can easily be made by purchasing a large,
smooth-sided storage box (without wheels) and cutting out a doorway in
one end. This option also has the advantage of being roomier for your cat
to move around in. Be sure to smooth off the edges of the door once you
have cut it out – your cat will thank you for having such a spacious, well
designed bathroom! (See Fig 5a & 5b).
Fig 1. Basic pan-type litter tray
Fig 2. Covered litter box
Fig 4. Automatic self-cleaning box Fig 5a. Make your own highsided litter box from a storage
box – plenty of room, less mess
Fig 3. Litter box concealed as furniture
Fig 5b. Or you can buy a highsided litter box
26
Cat's Paradise
2. Litter
Various types of litter are available, and the type you use will largely
depend on your cats’ preference. Avoid scented litters, as these are likely
to be unwelcome to you cats very highly developed sense of smell. Also
avoid litters that tend to leave dust, as these may lead to respiratory
problems. Clumping litters should not be used for young kittens; if they
are accidentally ingested they can lead to intestinal blockage and possibly
death. Clumping litters may allow waste to be more easily removed from
an adult cat’s litter tray, or a quieter and less sharp litter, such as recycled
paper pellets, may be preferred. Offer several different types to see what
your cat prefers. Cats are creatures of habit, and in general you should
stick with one that your cat is happy with. Regardless, the litter box should
have waste cleaned from it at least twice a day, and should be completely
emptied and thoroughly cleaned at least once a week. Do not use bleach or
ammonia containing cleaners on the tray – bicarb soda or a mild detergent
will clean the tray and will not leave a smell behind that may put your cat
off using the tray in future! Just make sure you clean the tray/s thoroughly
and rinse all traces of detergent off them.
3. Food and Water
Your cat’s food and water bowls should be located in another “safe” place
(quiet and out of high traffic zones) well away from the litter box area.
Nobody wants to eat where they poop! Some cats can also be funny about
drinking where they eat, so it is a good idea to have several water bowls at
various locations around the house. We will discuss food and cat nutrition
separately later, but food bowls should be clean for each meal, and water
bowls cleaned with a small amount of detergent, rinsed thoroughly and
refilled each day. This prevents bacteria from building up on the inside
walls of the water bowl and fouling the water.
Bowls should be wide enough that a cat can drink freely without her
whiskers touching the sides of the bowl. Whiskers are sensory organs,
used by cats for navigating in the dark and helping them to orientate and
kill their prey with one bite. They are very sensitive to touch, and some
cats do not like the feeling of them touching the sides of the bowl, and
Fig 6. Ceramic water fountain
Fig 7. Stainless steel food bowls
27
Cat's Paradise
this may lead them to be reluctant to drink. Plates are sometimes a better
option than bowls for feeding. Ensure that bowls are not too big if you
have a kitten, so that she can easily reach her food and water, and that if
she falls in she can easily get out (of a water bowl).
All bowls should be slip resistant and heavy enough that they are hard
to tip over. Some cats like to play in their water when drinking, and it is
important that they cannot tip over the water bowl when doing so. These
cats may do very well with an automatic drinking fountain, as they seem
attracted by the constantly moving water, which may encourage them to
drink more. Ceramic fountains are also easy to clean and almost all varieties
come with filters for removing dust and dropped hair from the water (Fig. 6).
The best types of bowls for food and water are heavy ceramic or stainless
steel. Stainless steel is an excellent surface and can help keep water cool
in summer, but can be prone to tipping over, so ensure it has a well seated,
slip resistant base (Fig. 7). Plastic tends to develop microscopic cracks, and
these can harbour bacteria, which will resist cleaning. This can lead to a
skin condition similar to blackheads on your cats chin. If using plastic ware,
ensure that you replace it frequently. A rubber “cat dinner mat” under the
bowls also helps prevent bowls moving, and catches any spills.
4. Cat Furniture
Scratching is a natural behaviour for cats. It helps them to
remove the old outer sheath from their claws, and stretches
out their tendons and muscles. Scratching also leaves
scent marks, which helps them to mark their territory. You
cannot stop a cat from scratching, but by providing her
with scratching furniture, you can ensure that she does
not tear up your expensive couch or carpet! Some cats
prefer to scratch vertically (up a post) while others like to
Fig. 8. Cardboard scratching pad
scratch horizontally (along the floor). Scratching furniture
for cats comes in a large range of styles, and to suit all
budgets. At the bottom of the range there are “over the door” hanging
mats and cardboard mats for the floor (Fig. 8). These are great if you are
limited for space, or on a tight budget. You can even make your own out
of old cardboard boxes (see this link for a great
).
You have probably seen the traditional scratching post (Fig. 9), which often
comes covered in either carpet or sisal rope. Note that woven sisal fabric
tends to be a bit more “claw-friendly” than the rope, and I have certainly
known plenty of cats that refuse to use their nice new scratching post,
simply because they don’t like the sisal rope on it!
Fig. 9. Woven Sisal
Scratching Post
28
Cat's Paradise
There is now a huge variety of cat furniture available that not only caters to
the feline need to scratch, but also provides climbing and perching options
for your cat, as well as hiding spaces. These are often referred to as cat
trees or cat condos, and are the top of the range in cat furniture (Fig. 10).
Always ensure any cat furniture has a solid, heavy base and is not easy to
tip over. A cat perch, or elevated resting area, is another important piece
of cat furniture. Often placed near a window where a cat can look out and
watch the world go by, a perch provides the cat with somewhere where
she can rest up high, where she will feel safe, and look down on what is
going on around her. Of course, a cat tree is not necessary to provide this
requirement – a blanket or towel on top of a wardrobe or bookcase works
just fine as well!
Fig. 10a. Cat tree/condo
Cat Perch – with internal
hiding areas
Fig. 10b. Cat tower
Numerous websites advertise cat furniture
like those shown above, a popular site in
Australia is Funky Cat Feline Furniture – see
but a search for cat furniture
or scratching posts will turn up plenty of
options to look at.
A scratching post should be provided for
each cat in the house, and is best located in
communal/living areas, or in thoroughfares
leading to where the cat’s food and litter
is located (e.g. in the hall).
29
Cat's Paradise
5. The Bed
You will need to decide from the start whether you want your cat or kitten
to sleep in your bed or in her own bed. If you are happy to share your
bed, that is fine, but just remember that your cute new kitten will go on
to be a fully grown cat and will be sharing your bed for possibly 15 or
more years. The cat is a notorious bed hog, and many also make excellent
alarm clocks, ready with a purr and polite poke to the face if you happen
to sleep through breakfast time. If you decide you do not want to share
your bed with your cat, you need to provide her with her own bed right
from the start. Remember that cats are creatures of habit, and changes in
routine can lead to problems with stress and anxiety.
Fig. 11. Heated cat bed by
Kitty Kat Relax
(low level heat; 28°C)
You can buy a cat bed, but remember your cat will be just as
happy with a warm blanket or fleece in a box. Cats love to be
warm and snug, and kittens especially may need an extra source
of warmth in their bed at first. Some cat beds come with an inbuilt
heating pad (Fig. 11) – ensure that any heating source does not
heat above 41°C, as a cat’s skin is much more sensitive to heat
damage and burning than ours. Never use a running electric
blanket to warm a kitten, as this can lead to nasty burns. If you
need to provide a young kitten with heat, a wheat pack can be
warmed in the microwave and placed underneath her blankets
to provide somewhere warm to curl up to. Otherwise place her
bed near a heating vent so that the air around her does not get
too cold.
6. The Retreat/Refuge
All cats need to have somewhere they can retreat to and feel safe. This
should be in a quiet room away from the main traffic areas of the house,
where they have a safe and warm resting area. They should also have food,
water and litter available in this room, as well as a perch, and children
should be taught not to follow cats into the refuge area. Each cat should
have her own refuge area to which she can retreat and where she will
not be disturbed.
7. Environmental Enrichment
Cats do need exercise. Although they spend much of their time sleeping,
they do become bored, just as we do, if they have nothing to stimulate
them, and exercise is also important for their health and to help avoid
obesity. There are a multitude of toys available to entertain cats with,
and again, you can make cat toys out of the simplest household items.
Cardboard boxes are a favourite with many cats, as are aluminium foil
balls, ping pong balls and pipe cleaners or feathers tied to a piece of string
and pulled along the floor for them to chase. Some cats prefer “bird-like”
toys, for example swatting at airborne toys, while others are happiest with
30
Cat's Paradise
“mouse-like” toys that they can chase around on the ground. It is also a
good idea to have a variety of toys and to change between different toys
periodically for variety. It is important to make time to play with your cat
each day, and this will provide you will some good bonding time with your
cat as well as good exercise for her.
Tunnels, scratching posts and climbing furniture are all great
ways for cats to get some exercise whilst having fun, especially
in a multi-cat household. However, not all cats will get along
and want to play with each other, and if this is the case you
will need to spend time with each one individually, giving
them their own special “me” time for play and exercise.
Tunnels are great to play in
and many cats love them
There are a wide variety of products now available for cat entertainment
when you cannot be at home. DVDs can be purchased that are designed
to attract the attention of cats (e.g. swimming fish,
). The choice
for today’s cat lover is virtually never ending, and is only limited by your
imagination.
You may also wish for your cat to be able to experience the great outdoors
once in a while. Many companies now provide various types of cat runs,
which are designed to let your cat explore the back yard in complete safety
(Fig. 12). You can also build your own cat run. With some nylon mesh a
balcony, veranda or the side of a yard can easily be enclosed so that your
Feathers are popular toys
to chase
Fig 12. A balcony enclosure by Cat Walk City
31
Cat's Paradise
cat is able to explore the outdoors without being able to wander and get
into trouble.
also installs cat runs and balcony enclosures for
renters, which can be dismantled without leaving damage to the property.
Any outdoor enclosure should always have a shaded area for your cat to
rest in. Cats, just like us, can be affected by sunburn and can also develop
skin cancers. This tends to occur where the hair is thinnest, on the nose,
eyelids and ears, for example. Again, with cat enclosures, modular cat runs
and DIY projects of this type, you are only limited by your imagination. As a
student I purchased a cheap aviary shed at a second hand shop, furnished it
with tree stumps, a pot of cat grass and a couple of hand-made cat perches,
and my cats had a great little shaded outdoor run for less than $200.
A DIY cat enclosure at the front of a house using nylon mesh and steel
cabling from CatNets.com.au, which the cats access from a window.
See lots more cat enclosure ideas at the
You can also train a cat to walk on a lead with a harness (Fig. 13). Cats
generally will not “go for a walk” as a dog does, but they can go out and
explore the outdoors with you this way, and get a bit of extra exercise.
Training cats to a harness and lead is generally easiest when done as a
kitten. Some cats are just anxious about new things, and don’t cope well
with this, however many cats will do great if you take the training slowly.
Often the more outgoing breeds take to this training the best (e.g. a
Burmese). Like anything with cats, never force them to do something they
are not comfortable doing. See the following
32
Cat's Paradise
Fig 13. Cat harness and
bungee leash
Many people associated with cats will recommend that indoor cats have a
pot of “cat grass” available. Cat grass generally refers to the common oat,
although often wheat or barley is also sold at cat grass. Various theories
have been proposed as to why some cats like to eat young grass, but to
date there is no scientific validation as to why cats eat grass. It does not
appear to be a requirement for their health, but it probably does no harm
in small amounts either. Some cats will eat grass and then vomit, so this
is something to watch for if you are introducing cat grass into the house.
Usually cats will just nibble at the grass from time to time.
Catnip is a separate plant, distinct from cat grass, and is an herb from
the mint family. The leaves and stem contain nepetalactone, the main
active ingredient in catnip essential oil. Catnip produces a “high” in cats
that respond to it, and acts via special receptors located in the olfactory
epithelium. Hence it acts via the cat’s sense of smell, not by the cat eating
it. Not all cats respond to nepetalactone, and it is thought that the response
Cat grass
Catnip (Nepeta cataria)
33
Cat's Paradise
is inherited as a dominant trait in cats. Estimates vary widely, but suggest
that 10 – 40% of cats do not respond to the effects of catnip. This is believed
to be higher in cats in Australia and Asia, where as many as 60% do not
respond to catnip. Kittens also will not respond to catnip until between
3 – 6 months of age, and often show an aversion to catnip when young.
Catnip generally induces rubbing and rolling behaviour in cats (for an
example, see
), although some may become hyperactive, or become
aggressive and growl if approached. Catnip affects a number of wild cat
species as well as domestic cats. The effect will usually last around 10
minutes, after which time there will be a period of refractoriness, where
the cat will not respond again for 1 - 2 hours. Catnip is not harmful to your
cat, and they will not overdose on it – when they have had enough they
will leave it alone. You can grow catnip and offer small pieces to your cat
once in a while, or you can dry the leaves for use in toys. Many toys for
cats now will contain dried catnip, as an added attractant. Catnip is also
reported to repel cockroaches and mosquitoes, as well as rats and mice,
who supposedly will avoid places where it grows. Picked or dried catnip
loses potency over time, and will need to be replaced regularly.
A Word about Kittens
We have mentioned kittens above, but there is some information that
is important to cover specifically if you are bringing home a new kitten.
Apart from a warm bed, litter type and feeding, which we will cover in
Cat Nutrition, we also need to discuss the differences in kitten behaviour
and protecting your kitten from injury.
Kittens are very playful, and if they were with their mother and littermates
they would play fight a lot, as this is how they learn the skills of hunting. They
would also learn something called “bite inhibition” from their littermates
and mother, because if they hurt one of their feline family, this other cat
would let them know. A littermate would cry out and stop playing with
them, and their mother would discipline them if they were too rough with
their biting. It is very tempting for us to “play rough” with a small kitten,
however as this kitten grows bigger, they can very easily draw blood with
their sharp teeth and claws. It is confusing for your kitten if you play rough
with her initially, only to yell at her or stop allowing her to play with you
as she grows. You should decide early if you wish to allow your kitten to
engage in play fighting with you. Alternatives are soft toys provided for her
to “attack”. Some people wear gardening gloves so that they are protected
from their kitten’s teeth and claws.
34
Cat's Paradise
Be aware that play fighting is a normal behaviour for kittens, and some
will lie in wait for you and “attack” you from a hiding space. Aggressive
posturing is a normal learning phase for kittens, as can be seen in this
video (
).
Always remember that kittens are small and easily injured. They are also
quick and can have a tendency to get under your feet! If your kitten wants
to climb onto higher furniture, provide objects to allow her to get up and
down in a stepwise manner, as large jumps may injure her growing joints
and bones. Kittens are curious by nature, and learn by exploring and
experiencing their world. Do not try to stop a kitten climbing – rather,
ensure your kitten has a safe environment to climb and explore in.
This is also the time where your kitten will be most open to training for
things such as walking on a harness and lead, going in a carry box to “Kitten
Kindy”, and learning to have her teeth brushed (
).
All activities should be introduced as fun exercises, and you should never
scold your kitten if she is nervous or apprehensive about a new activity
– this will just reinforce that it is something unpleasant that she does not
want to do. Have patience and use treats, and always give your kitten a
safe retreat to go to if she is unsure.
A kitten kindergarten is a great place for your kitten to learn social skills,
begin training and gain confidence (Fig. 14). This is just as important for cats
as it is for dogs. You will also learn how to go about successfully training
your kitten. Generally these classes will only run for 2 or 3 weeks, as kittens
are only really open to this kind of social activity between around 7 and
14 weeks of age. “Kitten Kindy” is one Australian program designed by
veterinary behaviour specialist Dr Kersti Seksel. Contact your local vet or
the Australian Small Animal Veterinary Association (ASAVA) to see if there
is a Kitten Kindy at a clinic near you. These programs are now very popular
in the USA. You can read more about
Fig 14. Kittens at kindergarten class
35
Cat Nutrition
36
Cat Nutrition
Cat Nutrition
The first thing that we must remember is that the cat is a strict carnivore,
and so relies upon nutrients found solely in animal tissues to meet her
specific nutritional requirements. The cat has evolved eating a diet of
mainly small rodents, as well as birds and small lizards, and in her natural
desert environment would typically have eaten 8 - 10+ small meals a day.
This diet was high in protein, contained a moderate amount of fat, and
was low in carbohydrate (see table 1).
Table 1. Ideal/Natural Cat Diet
(% of calories)
Protein
Fat
Carbohydrates
Moisture
Calcium
Phosphorus
Fibre
More than 50
30 - 40
< 10
(% of diet, approx.)
60 - 70
1.2
1.0
1.2
More and more specialists in feline internal medicine now recommend
feeding cats a diet of canned (moist or wet) cat food, and NOT dry
kibble. There are three main reasons why dry food is not considered an
appropriate food for cats:
1. The water content is too low (most important!).
2. The carbohydrate content is too high.
3. The type of protein is inappropriate (i.e. plant-based instead of animalbased protein).
Without looking at specific brands of canned cat foods, think in terms of
the broad principle that ANY canned food is better than ANY dry food.
Many cat food companies (and some vets) will tell you that all wet food
diets will lead to dental disease and that you must feed dry food to avoid
this - in their natural environment this is not how cats clean their teeth!
Cats keep their teeth clean mainly by tearing into fresh meat, with a
smaller contribution from crunching the bones of the occasional larger
kill (Most small kills such as mice are eaten virtually whole). A cat’s saliva
is also well designed to keep her teeth clean, if her diet is appropriate
for her as a carnivore. Feeding occasional large pieces of cooked meat
(without bones) is one way to help keep your cat’s teeth clean. We will
cover dental health more later.
37
Cat Nutrition
Dogs, being omnivores like us, do require some meat protein in their diet,
but they have evolved essentially as scavengers, and are able to utilise
nutrients found in plants as well as animals. Cats are very different to
dogs. They lack many of the enzymes and metabolic processes within
the body that allow dogs to process nutrients from plants. Cats are also
unable to make for themselves many of the essential nutrients that
dogs can synthesise within their bodies - such as essential amino acids,
vitamins, and fatty acids. An example of this is vitamin D - cats cannot
convert vitamin D to its active form in the skin with exposure to UV light
from the sun, as dogs and people do. They must eat active vitamin D,
which is found in animal tissues.
Cat Food - What to Feed?
So what should we really be feeding our cats? With the widespread use of
the internet and the ready access to a wealth of information it provides,
the question then arises as to what information is accurate and reliable?
There are a vast number of websites claiming to have “expert” opinion on
what to feed cats, how to make food for cats, and even how to feed cats
a vegan diet! Being an obligate carnivore means that the cat is obligated
to eat meat to get the nutrients that she needs to survive and thrive. Be
careful of misleading internet sites on this topic, however well-meaning
they may be. For a good, detailed discussion on cat nutrition if you would
like further information on the topic, please see the articles written by Dr
Lisa A. Pierson at www.catinfo.org or speak to your vet.
The first question we need to address is commercial food vs. homemade
diets. The formulation of a homemade diet that is complete and balanced
for the cat is very challenging, for the following reasons:
• The cat has very specific and complex nutritional requirements, due
to the fact that the cat is unable to make sufficient amounts of many
nutrients for herself.
• Nutrients, especially vitamins and minerals, need to be present in the
correct ratios to one another.
• The diet must be palatable (that is, the cat must like the taste of it
and want to eat it).
• Nutrients such as thiamine can easily be lost by cooking, or by using
certain ingredients such as raw fish or “pet mince” - which may
contain sulphur dioxide, a preservative that destroys thiamine.
• Spoilage and bacterial contamination can easily occur without correct
preparation and storage.
If you have a strong desire towards home cooking for your cat, Dr Pierson
does have some information on this on her website. We will not cover it
here, as it generally is too difficult to do well for most cat owners.
38
Cat Nutrition
Commercial Cat Foods
Commercial cat foods do vary widely in their quality, but with a little care
you can obtain a decent range of food that is of good quality and that
your cat will enjoy. Cats can become very attached to the flavour of fish,
to the exclusion of all other foods. However, many feline nutritionists do
not recommend feeding fish to cats. Certainly you should not feed raw
fish to cats, as raw fish contains thiaminase, which destroys the essential
B vitamin thiamine. Cooking the fish inactivates the thiaminase, but may
also destroy the thiamine. Also, fish may contain certain chemicals (called
PBDEs) which have possible links to hyperthyroidism in cats.
So the basic things that we need to look at in the cat food we buy is the
protein level in a food, the type of protein that is present (i.e. to ensure
that the protein comes from animal sources, not grain or vegetable) and
that it is fully balanced with all the vitamins and minerals that our cat
requires.
The easiest way to choose a good cat food is to check the ingredient
list and pick one that does not contain grains or cereals, contains
protein from animal sources such as chicken, turkey or duck (try to
avoid fish all the time), preferably does not contain by-products, is
a tinned (wet) food and is complete and balanced. Some companies
will publish additional information on their website, which can be
useful to help you select a good quality food.
39
Cat Nutrition
Grain free cat food tins are available in the supermarket if you look.
Beware that many may contain fish and/or by-products. By-products are
the parts of the animal that are not meat, and may include things like
feet, beaks, feathers etc. Hence foods containing animal by-products do
not contain proteins with as high a quality as those that do not contain
by-products
Lastly, always ensure that the food is fully balanced. This will be stated
on the label somewhere, and if there is no statement that the food is
complete and balanced for the growth and/or maintenance of cats, then
you must assume that it is not a complete food for cats, and should only
be used occasionally (as an example: Fancy Feast Royale/black label, VIP
Fussy Cat Fresh Mince are not a complete and balanced foods for cats).
How much should I feed?
In Australia good quality canned cat food comes in a variety of sizes,
ranging from 85g single serve tins or pouches up to 375g tins or larger.
Adult cats require between 150 - 250 kcal per day (kcal is short for
kilocalories, commonly referred to simply as calories). An 85g single serve
tin of cat food may contain, on average, 60 - 80 kcal. Many companies will
publish the calorie content of their foods on their website. Alternatively
you can refer to published tables, or contact the company directly for this
information.
For a list of the nutritional profiles of some Australian tinned cat
foods, see the attached table of Canned Cat Foods (Appendix I).
Because the amount of food that a cat needs varies depending on the
cat’s diet, activity level, age, size and genetic factors, the best way to feed
your cat is to feed enough to maintain your cat in an ideal body condition.
This means using the above calorie requirements, or the feeding guide
provided by the cat food manufacturer as a starting guide, but adjust
how much you feed to ensure that your cat is not over or underweight.
You can check with your vet if you are unsure how to check this, but your
cat should have good muscle coverage over her bony points (head, hips,
back etc), with a definite but minimal layer of fat under the skin. The ribs
should be easy to feel, but not sticking out.
Cats normally would eat many small meals a day. The closer you can
replicate a cat’s normal pattern of eating the better, so an adult cat should
be fed a minimum of 2 - 3 times a day (More is better if you are able to
do so). Always give each meal fresh, do not leave out old food or keep
uneaten food to be fed later - it is great for breeding bugs and the food
will quickly spoil.
40
Cat Nutrition
Kittens and Nutrition
While kittens do not specifically require a special diet compared to
adult cats (just more of it for their size), kitten food often has a higher
quality of protein in it (i.e. less or no grains or vegetables) and hence can
sometimes make a better food for cats of all life stages. Kittens have a
smaller stomach capacity, and a shorter intestinal length and capacity to
process food, and need to be fed more often than adult cats. Start off by
feeding a kitten 6 - 8 times a day, and then start to reduce the number
of meals after your kitten is around 4 months old. By 1 year of age your
kitten can generally be eating an adult number of meals. If your kitten
does not eat an entire meal, do not put it in the fridge for later. It should
be thrown out and fresh food should be given at the next meal. Bacteria
start to breed quickly on food and spoiled food can cause tummy upsets
and diarrhoea.
Mature Cats
It is worth noting that cats have another notable difference from dogs
and other animals in that once they get older, they actually require more
energy in their diet. This happens from around 8-10 years of age onwards,
and occurs for several reasons. Their appetite may also start to wane as
they age. It is important as your cat is getting older to be watching for
weight loss and signs of reduced appetite, and ensure that your cat has
regular health checks with your veterinarian. Older cats may require more
frequent meals, and may require further encouragement to eat, such
as warming of the food to make it more appealing. In order to ensure
she receives enough protein and energy, your vet may even prescribe a
specific diet for your cat as she ages.
41
Dental Health
42
Dental Health
Dental Health
It is important not to neglect the cleanliness of your cat’s teeth and the
health of your cat’s mouth. The Veterinary Oral Health Council approves
a range of products that have been shown to clinically aid in reducing
plaque and/or tartar in cats (and dogs). Available in Australia are Feline
Greenies® which are treats that your cat can chew on. Toys for your cat to
play with and chew on also help improve the health of her teeth and gums.
The Australian Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS) does not recommend the
feeding of bones (cooked or raw) to dogs and cats, as they can cause
tooth fractures and various digestive problems.
It is also recommended by the AVDS that you train your kitten to allow
you to brush her teeth. This is not as hard as it sounds, if you get her used
to it from a young age.
Always ensure that you keep things fun for your cat - take it slow, and
keep things positive. Do not overly restrain your cat, and make sure you
praise her lots! So the first step is for her to get used to having something
put in her mouth. Make sure you keep all sessions short - cats have a
fairly short tolerance span, especially to start off.
First, you will need a flavour your cat likes. Dip your finger into something
like a chicken or tuna mush (made from food and water) or something
similar. Call your cat as though you have a treat for her, then let her lick
the flavour from your finger. Gently rub the finger over her teeth and
gums, initially only for a second or two. A good idea is to start with the
canines, as they are easy to reach. She should quickly get used to this and
even look forward to it, and you can very gradually extend the time you
can rub her teeth until you can rub along both sides of her mouth.
43
Dental Health
Once your cat is comfortable with this, and you have been praising her
and not pushing her, you are ready for the next step. Place some gauze
dipped in the preferred flavour over your finger. Rub the gauze gently over
the teeth in a circular motion, again starting off with very short periods,
and gradually extending the time taken as your cat will tolerate it.
Your cat will now need to get used to the texture of the toothbrush you
are going to use. You may choose to use a soft brush, a pad or a dental
sponge. All are specifically designed to be used in cats. Some recommend
cotton buds, but the cotton bud at the tip can sometimes come off the
plastic stick in your cat’s mouth, leading to aversion. A small pad that fits
over the finger tip generally works well. Your cat should be allowed to lick
something tasty that she likes off the toothbrush until she is completely
familiar with the brush to be used.
Next she will need to get used to the toothpaste that will be used. This
may be a specific gel or rinse designed to reduce plaque and tartar from
a cat’s mouth. Flavours available include poultry, malt, beef and seafood.
Never use human toothpaste - these contain harsh chemicals and are not
designed to be swallowed, and your cat will not appreciate the taste!
C.E.T. Enzymatic toothpaste by Virbac Animal Health
Once all these steps are completed (and this may take a few months or
more) your cat is now ready for some actual tooth brushing. As with all
steps, take it slow - start with the canines and work up from there - and
keep the sessions short and fun. Never push your cat, and make sure
brushing is fun for your cat, with lots of praise. Brushing should generally
not take more than around 30 seconds, and can be performed several
times a week.
44
Dental Health
Logic Oral Hygiene Gel for dogs and cats, with applicators
from Cornell University.
It is generally recommended to have a check up with your vet before
you start brushing your cat’s teeth to ensure that there is no underlying
gum to tooth disease. This may be painful and cause your cat to reject all
attempts at introducing brushing. It is important to start with a healthy
mouth, and have a regular check up with your vet at least once a year.
Taking it slow is probably the most important secret to success in brushing
your cat’s teeth. If your cat has been doing well with brushing but suddenly
starts to resent it, this may indicate that she has pain somewhere in the
mouth, and she should see her vet for a check up straight away. Do not
keep pushing attempts at brushing if your cat is resentful, as this can lead
to lifelong aversion.
C.E.T. Oral Hygiene Chews
for Cats
45
APPENDIX I
46
APPENDIX I
Table of Canned Cat Foods
Food Type
IDEAL CAT DIET
Royal Canin Instinctive 12
in Jelly, Pouches 85g
Royal Canin Instinctive 12
in Gravy, Pouches 85g
Royal Canin Instinctive 7+
Years, 85 g Pouches
Royal Canin Aging +12, 85g
Pouches
Ziwipeak Daily Cat Cuisine
Lamb 170g
Ziwipeak Daily Cat Cuisine
Venison 170g can
Ziwipeak Daily Cat Cuisine
Venison & Fish 170g can
Advance Adult Tray 100g
Advance Kitten Tray 100g
Advance Adult Light
Formula 100g Tray
Hills Science Kitten Liver &
Chicken 85g/156g
Hills Science Feline Adult
Turkey 156g
Hills Science Feline Indoor
Adult Savoury Chicken
156g
Hills Science Feline Light
Chicken and Liver 156 g
IAMS Kitten Pouches* 100g
IAMS Adult Chicken
Pouches* 100g
Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult
Ocean Whitefish & Salmon
Entree* 85g
% calories coming from
Total calories
(kcal/kg)
Phosphorus
(% DMB)
Protein (%)
Fat (%)
Carbohydrates (%)
>50
30 – 40
<10
57
38
5
817
1.05
55.5
31.5
13
825
0.98
53
26
21
789
0.95
43
41
16
867
0.12
33
63
4
1113
1.31
35
63
2
1105
1.76
38
58
4
1053
1.36
42
33
54
66
4
1
850
1200
1.25
2.0
44
50
6
750
1.25
40
47
13
1343
0.95
28.6
45.4
26.0
1039
0.73
30.3
48.4
21.3
1076
0.65
34
33
33
884
0.69
35
46
19
810
-
31
46
23
810
-
48*
48*
4
1027
2.13
1.0
47
APPENDIX I
Table of Canned Cat Foods (continue)
Food Type
Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult
Chicken & Liver Entree*
85g
Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult
Chicken & Rice Entree* 85g
Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult
Tuna Entree* 85g
Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult
Turkey & Giblets* 85g
Purina Pro Plan Cat - Kitten
Chicken & Liver Entree*
85g
Artemis Turkey 156g**
Artemis Cat Salmon 156g*
EVO Turkey & Chicken
Formula Cat & Kitten 156g
or 375g
EVO 95% Chicken & Turkey
Canned Cat Food 156g or
375g
EVO 95% Venison Canned
Cat Food 156g or 375g
Innova Cat & Kitten
Canned Food 85g, 165g,
375g cans
Innova Lower Fat Canned
Adult Cat Food 85g, 156g,
375g
Innova Senior Canned Cat
Food 85g, 156g, 375g
cans
WHISKAS Meat Pouches
WHISKAS Casserole
Pouches
WHISKAS Mince Pouches
WHISKAS Kitten Pouches
% calories coming from
Protein (%)
Fat (%)
Carbohydrates (%)
Total calories
(kcal/kg)
Phosphorus
(% DMB)
44*
53*
3
1139
1.87
46*
38*
16
830
0.95
48*
38*
14
801
1.06
46*
47*
7
936
1.13
40*
57*
3
1136
1.96
29
39
65
52
6
9
1700
810
---
33
62.7
4.3
1283
1.3
25
72.7
2.3
1350
0.88
30
64.5
5.5
1400
2.1
33.5
58.5
8
1287
1.35
37
44
19
972
1.66
34.5
51.5
14
1226
1.3
36.2
58.6
5.2
800
1.33
33.1
49.2
17.7
800
1.45
39.1
24.6
59.4
61.9
1.5
11.7
800
1000
2.22
2.0
48
APPENDIX I
Table of Canned Cat Foods (continue)
Food Type
DINE Meat 85g
DINE Fish 85g
Fancy Feast White Label
Roast Chicken 85g can
Fancy Feast White Label
Ocean Whitefish and Tuna
85g can
Fancy Feast White Label
Ocean Whitefish and Tuna
85g** (US)
Fancy Feast White Label
Cod, Sole & Shrimp 85g**
Fancy Feast White Label
Grilled Chicken Feast
85g**
Fancy Feast White Label
Grilled Beef Feast 85g**
Fancy Feast White Label
Flaked Chicken and Tuna
Feast 85g**
Fancy Feast White Label
Savoury Salmon Feast
85g**
Fancy Feast White Label
Kitten - Turkey 85g*
Felidae Grain Free Pure
Elements 156g
Felidae Grain Free Pure
Sea 156g
AvoDerm Chicken Formula
All Life Stages Cat Food*
156g
California Natural
Chicken & Brown Rice
Formula Cat & Kitten 85g,
156g, 375g
% calories coming from
Protein (%)
Fat (%)
Carbohydrates (%)
Total calories
(kcal/kg)
Phosphorus
(% DMB)
30.8
61.9
65.4
31.6
3.8
6.5
750
800
2.06
3.2
49
30
21
930
--
49
30
21
960
--
49
48
3
1020
--
52
46
2
991
--
56
26
18
873
--
55
27
18
885
--
47
45
8
1161
--
46
51
3
1020
--
48
48
4
880
--
28.3
62.5
9.2
1161
0.91
30.4
61.8
7.8
1165
0.91
36
60
4
1195
--
28
64
8
1167
1.4
Assumptions: Protein and carbohydrates contain 3.5 kcals per gram, and fat contains 8.5 kcals per gram.
49
APPENDIX I
* Indicates values estimated from “guaranteed analysis” (which is much less accurate) after multiple attempts
to obtain information from manufacturer were unsuccessful. If a company/manufacturer is not listed at all, this
indicates information could not be obtained or was not usable. (Columns with -- indicates information unavailable/
not provided)
** Data obtained from US tables/analysis. (May not be accurate in Australia, as illustrated by Fancy Feast Ocean
Whitefish and Tuna variety listed. Some US data may also be out of date/several years old.)
NB: Specific Whiskas and Dine varieties not provided by Mars Petcare - information provided as given by Mars
Petcare 2013.
Disclaimer: The information provided here is based upon information provided by the pet food manufacturer or that
published on their website, and no responsibility is taken for its accuracy or otherwise. Where a manufacturer would
not provide information other than the “guaranteed analysis” that is part of the minimum labelling requirements for
pet food, if sufficient information was available to estimate a carbohydrate fraction from this, then this calculation
was performed, however it is acknowledged that this method is highly unreliable due to the inherent unreliability
of the information given in a “guaranteed analysis”. This inaccuracy is understood, and this information is only
included for comparison where a company would not provide more detailed information after repeated requests,
or no contact details could be sourced.
This is not intended to be a comprehensive table of all foods available in Australia. Rather, it provides a range of
examples from different manufacturers to provide a basic overview of available commercial cat foods. Information
provided and assumed correct as of August/September 2012 - March 2013.
The coloured numbers in the table refer to values that are significantly higher or lower than what would
be wanted in an “ideal” cat diet. Orange numbers are moderately divergent from ideal values, while red
values are very significantly different from what would be wanted in an ideal cat diet. Phosphorus content
has been highlighted arbitrarily over %2 (on a dry matter basis) to highlight diets that have particularly
high levels of phosphorus, which is especially important for older cats.
As can be seen from the table above, there are few commercial diets that fit the profile of an “ideal” cat
diet (the one that does is highlighted in blue) so some tradeoffs must be made to get a diet that a cat will
eat and that gives the best possible profile with respect to the important categories.
50
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