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Makeup Design History of Makeup Design Theatrical makeup or “grease paint” Powdered pigments mixed into a base of wax or grease Used to create dramatic effects of personal enhancement and transformation Masks vs. makeup Both used to create visual characters Ancient Greek theatre was masked Later European theatre used stage makeup to create characters, heighten facial features, and compensate for the effects of stage lighting Italian Commedia del’Arte continued to use masks History of makeup design Pre-Renaissance Renaissance Faces painted a different color (ex. An actor playing God painted his/her face white or gold, actors playing angels painted their faces red) More creative and resourceful with makeup design Lamb’s wool used for beards Advances in stage lighting technology impacted theatrical makeup 1873: Ludwig Leichner, an opera singer, created a non-toxic greasepaint 20th century Professional theatrical makeup artist became an important and modern addition to theatre (before actors were expected to do their own makeup) What Makeup Does Information about the play Information about the character: Time period/era Mood and style Age Social status Conformity to society Culture Personality Current state of the character’s mind Character development Provide actors with an additional tool while playing their character Restores color from complexion and defines facial features Create visual stereotypes and clichés (easily understood) Preparing for a Performance Act of putting on makeup can help the actor prepare and get into character Allows the performer to move psychologically into the role of the character Theatrical Makeup Heavier More dense Strongly colored/highly pigmented Excessive and exaggerated In normal lighting On stage, under the lights, makeup appears natural to a theatrical audience Stage Light’s effect on makeup White makeup looks blue Blue makeup looks black Yellow makeup looks washed-out white Bright red/fire engine red is not as flattering on stage Different lighting styles and colors of lighting can affect makeup in a variety of ways The Makeup Designer Also “makeup artist” Skill and experience with use of cosmetics Employed in a variety of roles Specialize in: theatrical makeup, cinema makeup, fashion photography, runway makeup, or special effects Skills in sculpture and other plastic arts Innovative and creative Design Process Work alongside the director and other designers while designing the makeup styles Makeup corresponds with the costumes for the character Discuss what the performer will be doing on stage in the costume Face Templates Present rough sketches to the director Final designs may be done on performer and photographs presented to the director Can use colored pencils or makeup directly on template Makeup Artist's Workplace Dressing Film rooms set Photographer’s studio Makeup Kit Makeup base colors Rouges Colored liners for shadowing and highlighting effects Eye makeup False eyelashes Powder Powder puffs Highlight and Shadow Both can change the apparent shape of the actor’s face Highlighting: Base makeup at least two shades lighter Applied to the bridge of the nose, cheekbones, below the eyes, and above the ground Shadow: At least two shades darker than base makeup Depth and definition Depth: eye sockets, thin side of nose, shallow cheeks Minimize heaviness under chin Skin Four basic tones: brown, fair, pink, and olive Thin layer of base makeup applied to neck, face, and ears Heavy application can make the performer look old Rouge Blush Enhances Peach Pink Enhances fair complexions darker complexions Coral Dry rouge is applied after powder Moist rouge is applied before the powder Eye Makeup The actor’s eyes and eyebrows communicate a great deal with the audience Eye shadow Eye liner Brings attention to the eyes Can help to create a character Accents and frames the eyes Eyelashes Mascara/false lashes brings attention to the eyes Powder Reduces shine Helps to preserve the makeup Prevents makeup from running/sweating off Translucent powders are used on fairer complexions Tinted powders compatible with the base color are used on darker complexions Lips The lips are another great source of communication for the actor Fairer complexions use pink and coral shades of lipstick Darker complexions use coral and orange shades of lipstick Red lipstick is usually reserved for specific types of characters Men usually use more neutral/natural-colored lipstick shades Prosthetics and Facial Hair Applied to a bare, clean face Spirit gum Liquid latex Thin layer is painted on to the face where prosthetic/facial hair will be placed Spirit gum dries until it is tacky and then the prosthetic/facial hair is placed onto the face Used to attach latex to latex Some people are allergic Castor sealer Seals and protects latex Used before any cream or oil-based makeups are put onto the skin Beauty and the Beast
